Water heaters

How is the floor in the apartment. What floors are best for an apartment

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

A wooden floor made of boards is a reliable coating that is well suited for an apartment. It serves for a long time, but there are some nuances: the tree is hygroscopic and moisture acts on it. During the summer period, high temperature and moisture, the boards swell, and in winter they dry out. In this case, gaps appear between the floorboards. Over time, old wood can begin to rot and lose its properties. Under the weight of the furniture, scratches and dents appear on the surface, and the paint lags behind. And finally, there comes a time when repair of wooden floors is required.

Depending on the life of the wooden floor, certain restoration methods are required:

coverage renewal;
with the appearance of cracks, deflection of boards and creaking;
overhaul when the floor rots, when it is no longer possible to use it;
complete replacement of flooring using modern ways finishes.

Floor quality check

When repairing a wooden floor with your own hands, you should correctly assess the condition in which it is. To check your floor, you should remove the finish coatings (linoleum, laminate, etc.) from it and get to the boards.

The quality of wood is determined by tapping it with a mallet. A dull sound means the board is rotten.
Suspicious surfaces are checked with an awl. If it freely enters by 10 mm, the board should be replaced.
Rust on nails indicates increased humidity in the room.

The extent of damage to the wooden surface depends on the cost and scope of work.

Wooden floorboards are laid on, which are based on a reinforced concrete base. To repair a wooden floor with a complete replacement, it is advisable to make a “floating” floor, which is a concrete screed lying on a layer of heat and sound insulating material and in contact only with it. The price of such a base is high, but it's worth it.

Tsiklevka

Scouring floors in an apartment is used when there are spots, dents, scratches, a thick layer of paint on the surfaces. Manual way scraping a wooden floor in an apartment with your own hands is too time-consuming. Currently, grinders are used, which work on the principle of friction of an emery cloth on a plane.

Before scraping, all nails should be sunk 3-5 mm so as not to damage the abrasive material.

First of all, the old paint is removed with a spatula and heated with a building hair dryer.
The next stage is grinding: the machine passes first along the floorboards, and then across.
Before coating the wooden coating with varnish, it is polished with fine sandpaper. After they close up all the bumps with putty for wood and make another pass.

Partial replacement of floorboards

Wood flooring can be repaired by replacing individual boards in damaged areas. This is done in the following way:

According to the hammered nails, the location of the log is located. Above its middle, a fragment of a rotten floorboard is sawn out.
A new board is being laid with size adjustment and antiseptic treatment on all surfaces, except for the ends.

The screws holding the boards together are easy to remove. It is enough to unscrew them with a screwdriver. The nails are first pulled out slightly with pliers and then pulled out with a nail puller.

Similarly, all areas of the wooden covering with rotten floorboards are changed.

Should be respected important rule: The board must rest on at least three joists.

The most difficult thing is to replace the grooved board without breaking the lock. This requires certain skills.

Crack sealing

Cracks form between the boards over time. This happens for the following reasons:

deformation from changes in humidity;
incorrect laying technology;
drying boards.

The appearance of cracks makes the floor look unattractive. In addition, the air that cools the room enters through them.

Opened seams in most cases are sealed with wood putty. It can be purchased at the store. In dry rooms, glue putty is used, and in wet rooms, oil putty. You can add stain or color to it. Before application, the floor is cleaned of varnish or paint with a metal brush. After filling the gap, the surface is leveled with a rubber spatula.
When there are a lot of slots, and their width is large, the boards are shifted. Another option is to cover the floor with plywood, fiberboard, chipboard or OSV. It is covered with sheets only in dry rooms, as this worsens ventilation and the wood begins to rot.
Wide slots must be hammered to the stop with wedge-shaped wooden glazing beads using PVA glue. The ledges are aligned grinder or a planer. The finished coating is covered with several layers of varnish or paint.

Squeak Elimination

The arrangement of a wooden floor over time leads to drying out and a change in the shape of the boards. As a result, the floorboards begin to creak. Causes of floor creaking:

gaps are formed between the boards and lags;
the ends of the floorboards rest against the walls;
loose fasteners;
friction between the side surfaces of the boards.

A creaky floor usually requires a major overhaul. This is not always possible. Often, the owners make cosmetic repairs to the wooden floor in the apartment so as not to open it. This can be considered a temporary measure, since a lasting effect cannot be expected here.

If your home has a subfloor, a creaky floor can be repaired by inserting wedges between the floorboards and joists from below. There is no access to the floor from below in the apartment, so the following methods are used.

The floorboards are fixed with self-tapping screws set opposite at an angle of 45–600 to the surface of the board, which should be pulled to the joists.
Talc or graphite powder is poured between the floorboards.
The space under the boards is blown with foam.
The floor is covered with plywood sheets 12 mm thick.
On creaking floorboards, nails are replaced with self-tapping screws. Such an event often eliminates problems with creaking.

Overhaul

Capital is done with the replacement of floorboards. In this case, the old wooden floor is completely disposed of. This requires the opening and dismantling of all boards. Logs are also checked and aligned, and rotten ones are replaced. It is advisable to replace them completely.

The concrete floor is cleaned of debris, defects should be repaired. In houses with wooden floors they also need to be repaired.
On the ground floor, it is necessary to lay insulation, and soundproofing is needed everywhere.

The board must be taken grooved and well dried, otherwise cracks will appear in the floor in a year.

All accessible places should be treated with an antiseptic. It is not recommended to use old boards, as the fungus can move from them to new ones.
The heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk into the wood, after which they are puttied, and the floor surface in these places is polished.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Plywood under linoleum on a wooden floor

Major repairs are more complicated than cosmetic ones. You can get acquainted with the process in detail by watching the video at the end of the article.

With the exception of a small percentage of secondary stock buildings with wooden floors, slab floors are used in multi-storey buildings. On the logs, either a floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards or a subfloor made of edged board, OSB, GVL, TsSP, plywood or chipboard for other facings (parquet, linoleum, pvc tile, cork, tile, carpet and other materials).

Therefore, the repair of a wooden floor in Khrushchev can be done in a day (replacing the tongue) or delayed for several weeks (laying sound insulation, insulation, lag and subfloor under the parquet).

Due to the complex design and numerous layers of the pie, repairing a wooden floor in an apartment is diverse, time-consuming and budget-friendly. When the appearance is lost, the surface of the grooved board is cleaned of the existing layer of paintwork materials, painted in several layers to give the necessary aesthetics of perception.

In all other cases, partial or complete disassembly of the coating or subfloor becomes inevitable. To simplify the search for the reasons for the decrease in the operational properties of the structure, layer-by-layer dismantling is usually practiced:

Any structural element (floorboard, log or self-tapping screw) can become the cause of a creak when the mutual fixation with another part of the floor is weakened. Therefore, to eliminate the squeak, apply different methods– from filling the gaps in the floorboards with talcum powder to replacing the log or screwing all the boards to the logs at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees in new places.

The causes of creaking are the wear of the elements of the wooden floor.

Advice! During the initial laying of tongue and groove boards as floor covering only the first, every fourth and last rows of material are rigidly attached to the lags. After drying, after 3-12 months, the floorboards are re-tightened with jacks, clamps or other tools. This operation is not a floor repair, it refers to the maintenance of the coating.

Repair technology

During the operation of a multilayer structure, the repair of wooden floors in an apartment becomes necessary when defects are detected by ear and visually obvious, which sharply reduce the comfort of living. In other words, they walk on the flooring until they get tired of the creak, or the user's leg fails.

A preventive revision is not economically viable, since for this it is necessary to take out all the furniture, dismantle the plinth, all or most of the floorboards. Repair is carried out as the structure is dismantled, depending on its complexity, special technologies are used:

Important! After the revision of the floorboards, boards unsuitable for further use are rejected. Or defective areas are cut out of them (rot, fungus, mold, warping, flying through knots).

Removing a squeak

AT Soviet times the exploitation of wooden floors in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka was practiced. The logs were laid on glassine, leveled with wooden wedges. The tongue-and-groove board was pulled together once - during the finishing of the rooms, users were usually not warned that the floorboards needed to be pulled together after drying again.

The reason for the creak is the weakening of the mutual fixation of two or more structural elements. Under load from the traffic of residents, they bend, make characteristic sounds.

To eliminate the squeak, the following algorithm of actions is usually used:

identifying a creaking area by ear, outlining it with chalk;
checking the presence of a fastener (nail or self-tapping screw);

existing nails can be driven into the wood with a punch;
with a self-tapping screw with a full thread, the floorboard is fixed in any convenient position relative to the log bar;
with an incompletely threaded self-tapping screw, two wooden floor elements can be pressed tightly against each other, including if the hole in the floorboard has expanded over time;
a polymer wedge is driven under the log hanging above the floor slab;
upon detection of rotten, turned into dust sections of lumber, they are cut out, the timber / board is built up with new pieces treated with an antiseptic.

Boards in rows located far from the walls are very difficult to dismantle without destroying the interlock. Therefore, their spatial geometry and relative position relative to the floorboards in adjacent rows are regulated by longitudinal wedges:

the wedge is cut from long wood chips;
driven between rows of floorboards;
prevents sagging, eliminates creaking;
sanded flush with the surface of the floorboards.

After that, local staining of the defective area is performed or the floors are completely repainted.

Replacing the grooved board

In dry rooms, a complete replacement of the floor covering is usually carried out, since the wear of the boards is the same here. In rooms with high humidity and an abundance of cold water, sewage, hot water communications, the restoration of individual areas affected by mold, fungus or rot due to pipeline leaks is more often used. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

logs and the condition of the screed should be carefully examined;
if the condition of these structural elements is unsatisfactory, the overhaul of the coating will cost less, since the operational life of the renovated area will be much higher than that of the existing floorboards, which will also soon have to be changed;
the grooved board is laid according to the standard technology (fastening to the logs of each 4 rows), after 4 - 12 months, the flooring must be pulled together again with fixation to the logs of each row of boards;
the plinth is attached exclusively to the walls to ensure high maintainability of the coating and mobility during the linear expansion of wood (about 0.15% for dry lumber).

Important! The height of the groove / crest of modern lumber may not match the similar locks of the exploited sheet pile, produced during the Soviet era.

Therefore, the flooring restoration technology is used according to the scheme:

Advice! It is forbidden to use gaskets between the joists and floorboards of the finished floor, since it is these details that cause creaking in the future. Plastic wedges should be laid under the logs, control the upper plane of the bars from which they are made.

Subfloor replacement

When renovating an old wood floor, it may be necessary to replace the worn out subfloor. With a lag step that satisfies the operational loads, these elements remain in place, only the black flooring is dismantled and replaced with a new one.

Depending on the finishing floor covering, materials can be used:

Works are carried out according to standard technologies with the provision of natural ventilation in the underground space.

Log replacement

If the wood flooring does not have visual defects, but its surface is uneven, there are squeaks and other factors that reduce the quality of living, you will have to dismantle the parquet or tongue and groove board completely to provide access to the bars on which the flooring is attached.

Before repairing the logs, the screed should be revised, it is possible to replace the insulation, waterproofing and acoustic materials. In Soviet times, expanded clay or sawdust served as a heater, these materials are less effective than polystyrene foam, ecowool, and basalt heat insulator. Therefore, they are collected in bags and disposed of.

Log replacement is carried out according to the technology:

beating the horizontal with a laser plane builder to find the top point;
drawing a horizontal line on the walls at an arbitrary height;
laying timber near the walls, taking into account the horizontal level.

Logs can be mounted on polymer wedges or special adjustable bolts (adjustable floor system). The bar must be securely fixed to the floor slab (screed) with anchors to prevent creaking and movement during operation. Therefore, when using wedges, long anchors are used; in adjustable floor systems, the stability of the spatial geometry of the structure is ensured by metal studs:

they pass through the bar;
attached to the base;
adjustable in height with a nut, positioning the logs at the required level;
the studs are cut flush with the grinder after alignment in a single horizontal plane of all the logs inside the room.

Advice! The lags have a certain thickness, so in wooden floors(roughing and finishing), by default, an underground space appears in which it is necessary to provide natural ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to make cuts in the logs, and in the corners of the room, install the gratings diagonally into the flooring of the subfloor and floor covering.

Insulating materials

Despite the fact that the wooden floor in the apartment has soundproofing properties and reduces heat loss, it is often required additional installation insulating materials. Their relative position in the wooden floor cake is as follows:

noise-absorbing materials - always fit on a screed or floor slab to cut off structural noise from the lower apartment;
insulation - located on top of the acoustic material, the thickness is selected depending on the specific operating conditions;
vapor barrier - preferably a membrane laid on top of the thermal insulation under the subfloor boards or wooden flooring to protect the insulation from getting wet by humid air vapor from the room;
waterproofing - applied by gluing or coating on a screed or floor slab, during wet rooms the second layer of waterproofing is made on top of the wooden floor before laying moisture-resistant cladding (protection against sewer leaks, water pipes).

Wooden floor pie in the apartment.

Advice! The presence of all the specified insulating layers is not a prerequisite. For example, the thickness of the floor slab may be sufficient for the concrete to completely exclude the penetration of airborne noise. In this case, you can do without soundproofing material.

Paint and varnish works

Floor painting refers to cosmetic repairs. Before painting, the following work is done:

Wood floor color options.

After that, the repaired floor is painted in several layers.

Looping and grinding

When saving bearing capacity Wooden floor elements may need to be flattened for a number of reasons:

the boards have dried up and warped over time;
gaps formed between the floorboards;
sheet pile "curved like a hump" in cross section;
in some areas of the board sank.

With a sufficient thickness of the tongue or parquet, these defects can be corrected without major repairs by grinding or sanding. Scraping equipment is expensive, it is rarely needed, so it is more reasonable to rent this equipment for the period of repair.

Grinding tongue with a belt machine.

Grinding does not require high qualifications, the necessary skills are acquired after processing 2 - 3 m² of flooring. The scraper is more difficult to use, so it is easier to order a service from qualified specialists.

Thus, when operating a wooden floor in an apartment, repairs are available home master on their own. The easiest way is to level the plane of the floor, get rid of the squeak of the floorboards and paint the surface. Overhaul and replacement of logs, floorboards will cost more and take more time.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

A high-quality, beautiful and comforting floor in an apartment is the key to a pleasant stay. Exactly good coverage save the owner from many problems, including health, if the choice is made in favor of environmentally pure material. However, the absolute security of all existing finishing materials only a tree can boast. And the wooden floor in the apartment is the perfect combination of comfort, coziness, environmental friendliness and beauty. How to make it yourself? This will be discussed in the article.

Despite the abundance of offers on the construction market and the mass of all kinds of flooring options, many are still of the opinion that nothing can be better than a wooden floor. Especially in an apartment or a private house. A lot of positive feedback about this method of finishing can be heard from those who are seriously worried about their health. Indeed, we are surrounded by synthetics, artificially created materials, and we want to at least feel at home in some security, and it is doubly pleasant to relax in environmentally friendly rooms.

Also, a wooden floor is not only safety for a person in terms of health, but also practically a standard of quality. The wear rate of the base of the boards is very high - on average, wooden floors without repair and replacement of floorboards can last for decades, of course, provided correct installation. They are distinguished by high strength and other physical indicators. For example, a wooden floor retains heat well, making it very pleasant to walk on it - there will be no feeling that the apartment is cold. He, even covered with paint, is pleasant to the touch, and looks great.

On a note! The wooden floor can be varnished, retaining the color and texture. This option is chosen by those who prefer to design an apartment in an eco-style.

However, not only in eco-style, a wooden floor fits perfectly. It can be laid in the implementation of almost any design ideas. Unless it may not fit the hi-tech style or another modern one. But even here there is a way out of the situation, if you really want to make wooden floors in the apartment - they can be painted in any color.

Also, the advantage of a wooden floor is the possibility of laying it with your own hands and, if necessary, repairing it. Of course, the recommendations of experienced professionals will not interfere in this matter, but still, anyone can figure out how to do the work with due desire.

The wooden floor may not be the finishing option for the coating - it may well become the basis for laying any other material, except perhaps when complete dismantling is carried out wooden base. In general, linoleum, laminate, tiles, etc. can be laid on a wooden floor. Also, due to the installation features, various communications can be laid under a wooden floor, it can be additionally insulated or waterproofed.

Types of floor boards

Having found out that wooden floors are a great flooring option, you should understand that you can make them using different materials. Rather, it will be a board in any case, but the floors can be decorated with its different types, from the shape to the type of wood from which it is made.

Popular types of boards for creating a floor.

In general, when choosing a floorboard, you should focus on personal wishes and preferences, as well as on the general idea of interior design. It is also worth remembering that a tree is still not the most cheap material, therefore, it is imperative to focus on the budget when choosing a material.

Prices for engineered floor board

engineering board

The choice of wood for coating

Among all interior elements, the floor is the most susceptible to various negative impacts, it wears out faster than other trim parts. However, to keep it beautiful for a long time will allow proper care and the right choice of material from which it will be made.

Massive board - larch

To create floor boards can be used different kinds wood, ranging from ordinary birch or pine to oak. It can be both conifers and deciduous trees. A dendrological reference will help you understand which boards from which wood to buy is best.

Table. Information about different tree species.

wood species	Characteristics in terms of construction	Physical indicators
	The most common in Russia. For the procurement and creation of building materials from it, the Daurian variety is most often used, which grows in Siberia, the Far East, as well as the Siberian and European varieties. The color of the wood is pleasant, brown-reddish, with clearly visible stripes of growth rings. Differs in a minimum number of knots, strong, dense, not prone to decay. The main disadvantage of such wood is the tendency to crack when dry and the complexity of processing.	Density - 665 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.14-0.17 mm, resistance to decay - 9.1, flexural strength - 109 MPa.
	Most often, spruce or Siberian spruce trees are harvested. light yellow wood delicate color, up to white, with well-defined rings. Strong, strong, resistant to rot, but its performance is slightly worse than that of pine. Difficult to process due to the large number of hard knots.	Density - 445 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.24 mm, resistance to decay - 3.6, flexural strength - 79 MPa.
	The second most common coniferous culture in Russia. Most often, an ordinary variety is used for harvesting. The wood has a pleasant reddish-yellow hue, rich color, the texture is very beautiful due to the pronounced growth rings. It has good strength properties, is not prone to decay, and is easy to process.	Density - 505 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.28-0.31 mm, resistance to decay - 4.6, bending strength - 85 MPa.
	It resembles spruce in its characteristics, but does not have resin passages. The most durable types of fir are European, Caucasian. Others are used extremely rarely.	Density - 375 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.26-0.3 mm, resistance to decay - 3.8, bending strength - 68 MPa.
	The wood is similar appearance on oak, bends well, does not crack. Looks very nice and expensive.	Density - 680 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.14-0.17 mm, resistance to decay - 4.9, bending strength - 118 MPa.
	The most famous type of noble wood. Color - brown, brown-yellow, with well-defined textures. Durable, not afraid of rot, with excellent flexibility type of wood. It is not afraid of moisture, as it absorbs it rather slowly and gives it back just as slowly.	Density - 690 kg / m3, resistance to decay - 5.2, flexural strength - 103 MPa.
	The color is reddish or yellowish white, with clear textures, interesting mottled pattern. Robust, reliable, flexible option.	Density - 680 kg / m3, wear resistance 0.14-0.17 mm, resistance to decay - 3.3, flexural strength - 104 MPa.

On a note! Interestingly, cedar also belongs to the genus Pine, but it is not used for the manufacture of flooring because of the rather soft wood.

Undoubtedly the best option in terms of strength and beauty, oak is, but it is very expensive and not everyone can afford to buy such a board. It may well be replaced by ash, but it is used undeservedly rarely. Beech is prone to deformation due to its tendency to absorb moisture - it reacts sharply to changes in its indicator in the room.

Only larch can boast of an optimal price-quality ratio, which can compete with oak in almost all respects, with the exception of strength.

On a note! The cycle track in Moscow's Krylatskoye, built before the 1980 Olympics, was completely covered with larch. At one time, this cycle track was considered the fastest in the world. Also, the buildings of Venice are on larch piles. And, as you know, there is enough water in it. Larch in water does not begin to rot - on the contrary, it "hardens", its strength characteristics increase.

Pine is also often used to create floors, due to its availability - this breed grows almost everywhere, and therefore is not at all expensive. It is also easy to use, as it is processed without much effort.

How to choose the right board size

The common and erroneous opinion of beginners is that in order to create a floor ideal option is to use the widest board. But this is far from being the case - on the contrary, using this type of material, you can encounter a lot of problems. It is wide boards that most quickly begin to deform, bend, reacting to any changes in the microclimate in the room. In the future, large gaps may appear between the floorboards. Also, the boards are quite difficult to work with due to the large weight. For the manufacture of wood flooring in the house, it is highly recommended to use medium-sized boards.

In the photo - pine boards

As for the length of the board, everything is limited only by the possibilities of transportation and the convenience of working with the material. For flooring, floorboards of any length are suitable. Moreover, if necessary, long boards can be easily shortened by simply sawing them.

"Warm" and wooden floor

Wooden floors in the apartment may well be combined with a heating system. It is most convenient to install the system itself on the logs, and lay the boards on top. Heating can be modular and rack. For example, in the first case, a special design is made of chipboard with grooves, where the heating pipes are laid.

Also, a wooden floor can serve as the basis for creating a heating system. To do this, pipes or heating modules are installed on its surface, and then any other type of finishing material is laid on top.

We make our own wooden floor in the apartment

Installation of a wooden floor can be done in different ways, depending on the desired final result, the type of subfloor and other factors. Let's get acquainted with three possible types of installation of a wooden coating.

Wooden floor on joists

This method is often used if there is at least some rough basis - for example, concrete floor. In this case, the wooden covering will spread on the so-called logs - long bars fixed on the base and serving as a kind of support for the floor. Logs can be installed on small concrete columns or bricks.

This type of construction is able to withstand significant loads, but it is important to remember that the step between the individual bars should be small, otherwise the floor will sag. The main thing is that the lags themselves are quite strong and do not bend when walking on the floor. They are also installed strictly horizontally, and the board is laid perpendicular to them.

Wooden floor on beams

Sometimes a wooden floor can be mounted not on concrete floors and logs, but on wooden beams floors - this option also has a place to be, as it is simple and at the same time very reliable due to the wide section of the bars. Also, the system can be supplemented with lags.

The beams themselves up to 4-12 m long are installed immediately on the foundation, fixed. Since neither have very big weight, it is recommended to attract outsiders to help in the construction. Logs are already mounted on top of the beams, and then the floor boards are laid.

Wooden floor on concrete

This is the very “apartment” option, since it is he who is the simplest and most convenient for implementation in an apartment. The wooden floor in this case is simply laid on a concrete base - the main thing is that it be fairly even. Otherwise, it may need to be leveled with other materials. Lags can also be used here.

Basic recommendations for laying a wooden floor in an apartment

Installation of a wooden floor in an apartment must be carried out according to certain rules. Only this will ensure the high quality of work. Wood flooring tips:

work is usually done closer to spring, when the winter cold begins to recede;
the room should not have high humidity;
the base must be well prepared when it comes to flooring on concrete;
waterproofing is necessary, especially if the apartment is located on the ground floor;
if insulation is laid, then it should lie without cracks;
boards are laid along the long wall of the room, perpendicular to the wall with a window.

Wood flooring

Before proceeding with the installation of a wooden floor, you should prepare all the tools and materials that you may need. These include:

board;
insulation;
timber 50x50 mm;
waterproofing roll material;
jigsaw or saw;
perforator;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
building level.

The instructions for installing a wooden floor look something like this.

Step 1. A log is installed on the concrete floor prepared and cleared of debris. Logs are set at one level at a distance of about 40-50 cm from each other. Installation starts from the very high point gender.

Step 2 You can fix the logs on a concrete base using metal corners and dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor and lags according to the marks made with a pencil through the holes in the corners.

Step 3 The logs and the entire base are completely covered with waterproofing material. For this, a dense polyethylene film can be used.

Step 4 A dense insulation is laid between the lags - for example, mineral wool.

Step 5 After that, the floor board can be laid. The whole process begins from the wall farthest from the exit from the room. The board is not laid close to the wall, but taking into account a small compensation gap, so that the floors do not deform in the future. The gap will later be closed with a plinth.

Step 6 The boards are screwed to the lags with self-tapping screws. In this case, the fastener is screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees. Approximately 2 self-tapping screws are spent per attachment point.

Step 7 Thus, the entire floor is covered. If a tongue-and-groove board is used, then it is important to ensure that the tenon on the next board fits into the groove of the previous one. The boards are knocked together with a hammer if necessary. The main thing is not to damage the end of the board.

Video - Laying boards on the floor

How to protect a wood floor

Unfortunately, if the finished wooden floor is not treated with anything, it will quickly lose its attractive appearance. Therefore, it must be varnished or painted. Before applying these compounds, the floor is cleaned of dust and debris. Then you can apply varnish and dry it well, sand it finished surface and again apply a couple of layers of glossy varnish.

Attention! You can move on such a floor only a day after the work is done, and interior items are placed only after 7-10 days.

In order for the wooden floor to please the owner of the apartment, it is important to pay attention to all the work carried out and the choice of material. This is what will determine the success of the event. A properly laid and protected floor will last long years and will not let you down.

Hello dear blog readers! If you got here, it means that you are worried about your floors and there is a great desire to somehow transform them. Most likely, you are terribly tired of the creaking of old floorboards or the terrible look of shabby parquet. As always, there is a way out - repair. Today, together we will figure out how to properly repair the floor in an apartment with our own hands in stages. Let's start about everything in order.

Summary of this article:

Options for repairing floors in an apartment can be conditionally divided into two main areas according to the nature of the implementation:

Capital - require the dismantling of the floor base (screeds, logs, etc.), and the complete replacement of the old floor covering. We will talk more about the overhaul of floors later in a dedicated section.

Current - imply a complete or partial replacement of the old floor covering, as a rule, without affecting the screed and floors.

Most of the current floor repair options involve the replacement of all or part of the floor finish made of the following materials:

parquet board

Laminate

Linoleum

Tile

Cork

Polymer self-leveling floor

To determine which floor repair option is more suitable for you, you must first analyze the base floor and the finish coat.

Of course, ideally, it is best to immediately overhaul the floor, but this requires significant finances. Therefore, look at your capabilities and, of course, at the floor area in the apartment.

After all, the apartment is different! There are apartments of the "old fund", and there are modern ones with a huge area. Next, we will understand the features of repairing the floor of small apartments.

Before starting the repair of floors in the apartments of the "old fund", you must select suitable option execution, i.e. current (cosmetic) or capital.

To do this, an audit of the existing base of the floor and the final coating should be carried out. After that, having finally decided, you can proceed.

In most cases, the floors in Khrushchev's and Stalin's apartments are a multi-layered "pie", the filling of which varies greatly, i.e. in one apartment there may be heat-sound insulation, and in another there is none at all.

It is not uncommon for construction debris left during the construction of a house to be simply covered between wooden logs.

These are the realities. Therefore, it is best, of course, to carry out a major overhaul, i.e. completely dismantle the old coating, remove all debris, and reproduce a new one.

The whole process of overhauling the floor with your own hands in Khrushchev (Stalinka) consists of the following steps:

Dismantling of the old flooring - complete dismantling.

Thorough cleaning of the resulting debris.

A close analysis of the existing foundation.

Elimination of cracks, potholes, seams, if any.

Screed device.

Laying the final floor covering.

Floor overhaul - step by step instructions

Overhaul of the floor is divided according to the degree of execution into the following types:

Full - performed in case of impossibility of partial.

Partial - applicable in cases where the identified damage relates to an insignificant part of the floor covering, i.e. can be partially replaced.

To properly perform a floor overhaul, follow the detailed step by step instructions:

Step 1 - Dismantling the old flooring - complete dismantling.

The old plank floor is best dismantled in large pieces, i.e. break out with a crowbar, and where necessary, file with a saw.

So it will be much more convenient to take the old floor out into the street than small pieces of it laid out in multiple bags.

The old screed must be split with a hammer drill with a breaker nozzle. Here it is most convenient to pack it in bags for take-out in the future.

Step 2 - Thorough cleaning of the generated debris.

You should not be limited to the removal of large remnants of the old floor - you need all the little things, and even dust to nullify!

It is best to use the "services" of a vacuum cleaner, which will perform high-quality cleaning work, unlike the good old broom.

Step 3 - A closer look at the existing foundation.

After a thorough cleaning, the base of the floor is in full view. Here it is just necessary to analyze the state of the starting point and predict approximately the amount of work required and the budget.

Step 4 - Elimination of cracks, potholes, seams, if any.

After detecting various damage to the subfloor, it is imperative to repair them. Protruding potholes - cut down with a puncher with a chipper, cracks and seams - repair cement mortar.

Step 5 - Screed device.

Before the screed device, it is best to prime the base of the floor, so the adhesion will be as strong as possible.

We fill in the beacons and give a good grab. Better wait a week to be sure.

Step 6 - Laying the final flooring.

After the screed is completely dry, we proceed to laying the finishing floor covering. It can be parquet, laminate, cork, linoleum, etc.

So, following this step-by-step instruction, you can independently carry out a major overhaul of the floor.

Repairing the floor in the kitchen - a guide for beginners

The process of repairing floors in the kitchen requires a special attitude and approach, because. This room is characterized by changes in temperature and humidity.

That is why we have compiled a small guide for beginners so that mistakes are not made at the earliest stages.

Options for repairing kitchen floors include the following:

Capital (solid) - are mainly performed with a complete alteration of the kitchen space.

Cosmetic (current) - provide for the replacement of the floor finish, the correction of minor defects in the base, etc.

The sequence of actions for repairing floors in the kitchen is as follows:

Dismantling of the old finishing floor material. First, of course, you need to take out all the furniture so that nothing interferes.

We check the level of the existing subfloor. If it’s normal, then it’s great, if not, you need to align.

Next, we go shopping for a new floor covering, what exactly suits you, decide for yourself.

In conclusion - laying or laying the finish coating.

The main thing when choosing a new finish for the kitchen floor is to pay attention to the following material characteristics:

Heat resistance – elevated temperatures are not uncommon in the kitchen, so it is best to choose heat-resistant flooring.

Moisture resistance - in the process of cooking, the floors often get dirty, as a result of which they are often washed. Therefore, the floors in the kitchen should not be afraid of moisture!

Abrasion resistance - no one will argue that the kitchen is a walk-through room, because. She is the favorite of most people. Therefore, the materials on the floor must be extremely hardy and not lose their appearance for many years.

Renovating the floor in the bathroom is a very interesting task. It can be easily done on your own.

The main stages of repair work to bring the bathroom floor back to normal can be identified as follows:

Preparatory work - first of all, the old finishing floor is dismantled, all debris is removed, cracks and cracks are covered over, and the entire surface is primed.

Waterproofing procedures - the floor is carefully treated with a special bituminous coating for bathrooms.

Screed device - beats off beacons zero level, then the mixture is prepared and evenly distributed.

Laying the floor finish - after the new screed has completely cured, you can start laying tiles, linoleum (which is less common), or parquet board.

Most often, of course, in bathrooms for laying on the floor is used tile, because it is ideally suited for its characteristics to the operational requirements of wet rooms.

Diagnostics and repair of underfloor heating (electric and water)

In order to properly repair a warm floor with your own hands, you must first carry out a diagnosis. As you know, the warm floor is water and electric.

The main breakdowns of electric underfloor heating are:

Thermostat malfunction.

To begin with, it should be removed, having previously de-energized. Then we disassemble and pay special attention to the primary winding of the transformer. If it burned out, which is exactly what happens most often - only a replacement.

You can also check the functionality with a multimeter. It is possible to repair the underfloor heating thermostat, but this is not justified. It's easier to just buy a new one.

Incorrect operation of the temperature sensor.

It may happen that exposing temperature regime warm floor, you will begin to notice after a while his "disobedience".

For example, you set the temperature to the maximum, and the floor is barely warm, or vice versa, you are trying to lower the temperature from a red-hot one, and the reaction is zero.

In this situation, it is no longer advisable to repair the underfloor heating sensor - it is best to go to the store for a new one.

The most common malfunction of a water-heated floor is a pipe breakage as a result of repair and construction work (for example, it was hit with a grinder or a puncher when dismantling the old floor covering).

Underfloor heating pipe repair involves the following steps:

The first thing to do in the event of a breakdown is to turn off the water.

Next, we expand the new piece of pipe and the damaged ends of the old pipes.

Then we put on all the necessary fittings.

We press in all the ends of the pipes.

We check the functionality.

Everything is simple! How about concrete flooring? We will discuss this further.

Repairing concrete floors, unlike wooden floors, is of course required less often, but it still happens. That is why we will consider the main malfunctions and the process of their elimination in stages:

Repair of potholes and cracks concrete screed gender.

Do-it-yourself repair of a concrete floor screed can be done if you have a desire and a tool, the main thing is not to be afraid and start acting! Small potholes and cracks must be embroidered both in depth and in breadth with the help of a diamond disc and a grinder.

Next, be sure to prime the embroidered area with a special primer deep penetration. After it dries, fill the problem area with cement mortar, which you can easily prepare yourself.

Of course, you can use a ready-made composition for repairing a concrete floor, if possible. After the filled area has completely solidified, it is important to grind the resulting surface to a level with the floor.

Repair of deformation joints in concrete floors.

Most concrete bases have expansion joints that allow the concrete to "walk" a little under heavy loads - thanks to them, the appearance of cracks is prevented. But these seams themselves often suffer - chips and potholes form on them.

They can be eliminated with the help of special mastics or sealants for concrete, building harness-seal and profile systems for expansion joints. It is better to entrust the installation of the latter to professionals.

How to repair an old floor wooden planks? Let's talk about this next.

Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden floor in an apartment is not difficult. Many men have done this at least once in their lives.

Here are the main problems of old wood floors and how to fix them:

Small and large cracks in boards.

Cracks are formed due to initially incorrect laying, and in the process of drying the tree, after a long time.

In large cracks, wedges are most often driven in size from the same type of wood, and the protruding parts are compared with the floor level.

Small cracks and crevices are covered with a special wood putty, which has many shades. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose the right one.

The creak of boards from bending and rubbing against each other.

Due to unevenly spaced lags, there are cases of deflection of the floorboards. As long as they are new and fresh, there are no problems. But, as soon as the floorboards dry out, a terrible creak begins.

To correct this ailment, it is necessary to dismantle several boards at the deflection point, and then move the logs a little, if possible, or put a new support in the problem area.

Also, creaking occurs when the floorboards rub against each other - this is a very unpleasant incident of old wooden floors. You can solve this trouble by pulling the floorboards with lags with long thin screws, completely immobilizing them.

And what about the parquet floor? We will talk about this further.

Repair of parquet floors is of two types:

Cosmetic - involves the replacement of only some elements and bringing it into a "nice" look.

Capital - complete replacement (parquet re-tiled).

A major overhaul of old parquet floors is inevitable with a floating subfloor, as along with it, parquet boards will also set sail.

Cosmetic, however, will be required in the following cases:

Darkening of the parquet surface, for example from long-standing furniture.

To eliminate this ailment, you must first perform scraping, then grinding, and then soak the entire surface of the floor with a special stain and varnish it.

The gaps formed between some boards.

Parquet is, first of all, a tree, and a tree tends to dry and change. Therefore, damaged boards must be carefully replaced with suitable ones in color and size.

Raised section of parquet after flooding.

A small flooded area of \u200b\u200bthe floor can be dried with a building hair dryer, after removing the wet elements. After that, put them back in their rightful places.

The nasty creaking sound of parquet boards against each other.

To fix this problem, you will need small cloves, and preferably self-tapping screws, because. they have no reverse. With their help, you can fit the boards closer to each other.

Repair of a tiled floor is most often required after the following troubles:

A crack or chip in a tile caused by a heavy object being dropped.

A complete split due to the load on a specific point of a particular tile.

Wobbly base floor

Repairing a tile on a floor rarely involves replacing the entire tile, only in the case of a poor subfloor underneath. In other situations, you can get by with replacing only damaged tiles.

In order to carefully remove a broken tile from the general “picture”, you must perform the following steps:

Fill with a thin drill many holes in the remaining element of the broken tile.

Starting from the center, gently and gently start stabbing the rest with a chisel or chisel, you can also use an old chisel.

As a result of these actions, it will be possible to easily remove the broken tile without damaging the neighboring one. Then we smear tile adhesive the base of the floor and the new tile itself and lay it in a level, not tapping hard.

But what can be done with a damaged polymer floor? We will talk about this further.

Repair of polymer self-leveling floors in an apartment is certainly different from the repair of other types of floor coverings.

The main malfunctions of self-leveling floors, which entailed repair work, the following can be distinguished:

Bubbles with air or vice versa sunken into the surface of the self-leveling floor.

Such a misfortune could happen at the time of pouring the self-leveling floor, because. simply poured mortar was not rolled evenly with a spiked roller. Do not forget about this important procedure!

Cracks and cracks of various thicknesses.

The main cause of cracks in self-leveling floors is the precariousness of the base of the floor and the violation of proportions when mixing the solution. Cracks up to 1 cm - embroidered, primed and puttied, more than two - it is best to refill the new floor.

Small debris - surface roughness.

Everything is simple here - before pouring, the base of the floor was not cleaned properly, when working with a spiked roller, small debris from the bottom was stirred up and lifted up. There is only one option to correct the situation - to grind the surface and arrange a finishing fill.

Well, that's all - it's time to finish. And so the article turned out to be not small. But now you know exactly how to properly repair the floor in the apartment with your own hands in stages. It remains only to act. Great luck to everyone!

The floor is the most frequently used area of any apartment, which daily experiences a lot of stress and exposure to a variety of environments and liquids. When renovating your home on your own, it is important to quality repair with your own hands, step by step doing all the steps necessary for this.

What repairs and when to do

Floor repair on your own is a rather complex, time-consuming and responsible process. First, it is worth understanding the types of manipulations that will have to be carried out. To do this, it is important to assess the condition of the structure and decide what needs to be done: cosmetic or overhaul. repair.

Owners of new buildings have a floor with a ready-made and well-made screed. In this case, it will be possible to cosmetic repairs: If necessary, fill in the leveling compound and lay the floor covering.

An old apartment often involves a cap. floor repair, especially if wood was used as a coating. has a limited service life, over time, the floorboards begin to creak or fail when walking. It is out of the question to carry out a cosmetic finish of a wooden coating that has served its time.

Flooring largely depends on the type of flooring that will be used. There is a standard classification of coatings used in floor repair. It distinguishes materials such as parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles, linoleum, solid board, stone self-leveling floors.

Parquet for renovation

Parquet flooring has been known since the 17th century, when it was first used in the palaces of the kings of France. The main advantage of parquet flooring is its environmental friendliness. Modern manufacturers offer wide selection color solutions, sizes and ways of laying parquet and parquet boards, which allows you to make repairs to the floors in the room in a unique style for each room.

Before laying such a coating, the floors are leveled with a special screed so that the height differences of the irregularities do not exceed half a centimeter. Next, the humidity of the room is determined, for which a small piece of plastic film is laid on the floor for a day, the edges of which are fixed with adhesive tape. If there is high humidity in the room, then the film will be covered with perspiration from the inside. In this case, laying parquet is not recommended.

The disadvantages of such a coating are the high price and instability to moisture. Also, this material cannot be used when mounting a "warm floor".

Tiles, laminate, board and stone

If there is high humidity or high traffic in the repaired room, then in this case preference should be given to ceramic tiles. This type of flooring is resistant to temperature changes, detergents and moisture. It is perfect for renovating bathroom floors. But it should be borne in mind that the tile floor will be cold, so it is worth laying electric or water heating under it.

Laminate in appearance can be confused with parquet. However, it is not made of wood, but of pressed HDF boards with a polymer layer applied to it and a pattern. Laminate pattern can imitate wood, marble, as well as other patterns. Installing a laminate is quite simple, it does not require special care, the service life is high - up to 15 years.

The massive board for a floor on the characteristics is not inferior to a parquet. But such a coating requires careful maintenance: preventing moisture ingress, applying a special protective layer.

Despite the fact that stone floors are wear-resistant, they are not very popular due to the high cost and cold that comes from the stone. More commonly used in outdoor decoration terrace floors and balconies.

Linoleum, carpet, self-leveling floor

Most often, linoleum is used as a floor covering. It is easy to install, does not require special care, resistant to moisture and chemicals, has a wide variety of colors, textures and patterns. The affordable price of the material also helps it to occupy a leading position among other finishing materials. Even a non-professional will be able to make repairs to the floor in the apartment with his own hands, gradually laying and fixing the strips of linoleum.

Carpet is the most fashionable type of flooring. With its help, it is easy to create coziness in the room, it is pleasant to the touch and makes walking comfortable even in the cold season. But the carpet requires careful care, cleaning from dust, it is difficult to remove stains from it. Only regular and proper care will help keep the carpet in proper shape for many years.

Bulk floor is the newest among all types of floor coverings. It is resistant to temperature extremes and moisture, to chemicals, and is also environmentally friendly. But you need to mount it perfectly flat surface. Under the influence of sunlight, the material from which the floor is made may turn yellow.

Concrete floor repair

Before you start repairing concrete floors, you need to make coatings. If there are cracks on it, then it is worth weighing all the pros and cons, making a decision: repair the old base or form a new one. Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment in stages:

The floor before restoration is cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush, and greasy spots- abrasive compounds (solvents).
Next, the concrete surface is primed with a special solution or PVA diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4. It is necessary to dry the primed surface for at least a day.
Further, if necessary, potholes and small cracks are puttied, applied new layer screeds.
Before pouring the self-leveling compound, it is necessary to dry the screed for several days.
The selected floor covering is laid on the repaired concrete base.

Wood floor repair

Repairing old wood floors begins with identifying creaking floorboards and lags, as well as those parts of the structure that are covered with mold. Detected defective parts are exchanged for new elements. The entire floor area is treated with an antifungal agent. If certain areas of the floor in the room are more likely than others to be exposed to moisture, then they should be covered. waterproofing materials, since one antifungal impregnation will not be enough.

Often, cracks form in the wooden flooring due to the drying of the wood. You can eliminate them as follows:

The floor is treated with a grinder.
The gaps are sealed with a primer and another layer is removed with a grinder.
The boards are primed with nitro-lacquer.
After the nitro varnish dries, primed top coat(matte or glossy).

Laminate and tile floor repair

During operation, cracks, scratches, dents from falling objects, swelling from liquid ingress can form on the surface of the laminate. Scratches can be easily dealt with. Dents lend themselves well to correction with special pastes. If, after falling objects on the laminate, the interlocks are damaged or the coating is swollen, then the only option here is to completely replace such a section of the floor.

Since ceramic tiles are the most damage-resistant material of all floor coverings, they are less likely to be repaired. However, situations are not ruled out when cracks, chips, and potholes form in the plates. You can make repairs to floors from such a coating as follows: fill with cement milk - a solution of cement and water in a ratio of 1: 4. It is applied to the tile and begins to be rubbed with a cotton swab (first along, and then across). In order for the solution to dry completely, the repaired area of \u200b\u200bthe floor during operation must be covered.

If damage ceramic tiles are significant and give it an unaesthetic appearance, then the only repair option is the complete replacement of unusable elements with new ones.

Repair of linoleum, carpet, stone

Do-it-yourself floor repair in the apartment is carried out in stages as follows:

The most common defects in linoleum can be swelling, cracks, delamination or breaks. Such problems are easily solved like this:

using a special glue, which should be drawn into a syringe and injected under the damaged area;
then a load is placed on this part of the floor and the glue is allowed to dry completely;
if the damage to the coating is significant, then in this case the sections are replaced with new ones.

In order to repair defective areas of carpet flooring, you need to have its spare parts:

the damaged area is cut out, a patch is put in its place. It is attached with double-sided tape or glue;
so that the edges of the patch do not unravel, they are pre-treated with latex glue;
before cutting and gluing a patch, it is worth considering the pattern, as well as the direction of the pile.

In order to give an aesthetic appearance to stone flooring, the following series of actions are carried out:

various cracks and chips are easily removed by grinding the stone, and then polishing it;
polishing is done by special chemicals, which are rubbed into the stone and make the coating immune to pollution;
such simple manipulations will help get rid of cracks up to 5 mm deep.

Self-leveling floor repair

During operation, irregularities, chips, cracks, small roughness and grains can form on the surface of the self-leveling floor. It is important to remember that all compounds used in the repair process must be compatible with the mixture from which the floor is made.

Cracks in the self-leveling floor are removed by cleaning the area up to concrete base and new liqueurs. Grains and scratches are removed during the grinding process. After grinding, the polymer composition is again applied to the floor surface.

In each case, repair, flooring requires a special approach. The choice of certain methods will depend on the characteristics of the flooring and the desire of the owner. In any case, a properly carried out repair in compliance with all technological requirements will bring the floor into proper condition and will delight the owner of the home for a long time to come.