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Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed. How to make a floor screed in an apartment - materials and technologies How to make a screed in an apartment

The floor screed can be "wet" or "dry". Now we are most interested in the first option. In general, among the "wet" screed, the following types are distinguished:

when the screed falls immediately on concrete floor or brick (stone) base. This is the most common type of work;

also, a floor screed is made in bathrooms and in the kitchen over waterproofing, especially if it is putty;

in cold rooms, sometimes a screed is laid on top of the heat-insulating layer;

Finally, there is an “advanced” option, when the so-called self-leveling floor is laid on top of the screed itself to perfectly level the surface.

In this review, we will consider aspects of laying the most common type of "wet" screed based on a cement-sand mixture. Such a floor screed can be completely done with your own hands, given all the rules of this type of home repair.

Tools and materials that will be required to create a screed:

chisel and hammer;

chipper;

drill;

spatula or trowel;

a container for preparing a solution;

water, cement, sand (or special building mixtures);

self-tapping screws with dowels;

special fixing fasteners;

rack metal beacons;

pencil, marker, crayon;

ruler, tape measure;

rule;

building level.

Floor preparation for screed

Cleanup.
Cement-sand screed is laid on stone, concrete or brick bases. Therefore, to begin with, we remove all the previous old building layers - an outdated screed, waterproofing, etc. - until the “rough” floor appears. To do this, use a hammer, chisel and chipper. Further, it is desirable to close up all large cracks or cracks.

Then we remove all debris, construction residues, dust, clean the room, do wet cleaning. After drying, prime the surface well.

Important! All work with pipes - their installation, replacement, etc. must be done at the preparatory stage before laying subsequent layers of waterproofing and screed.

If necessary, lay a layer of thermal or waterproofing on the floor with some overlap on the walls. You can read about this separately.

Marking and installation of beacons.
We turn to the layout of the room. This is a very important step that requires accuracy. For marking, special metal rack beacons are used (it is better to buy them at a hardware store). Although sometimes, in the old fashioned way, they also use strong wooden slats, and instead of screws and fixatives, they use heaps of gypsum.

To begin with, using the building level, we are looking for the highest "mountain" and the lowest "pit" of the foundation.

Mark the most high place and project that height onto the wall. It is on this marker, at the highest point with some addition on top, that the entire system of lighthouses is further aligned. This is because the final thickness of your screed should be 2-3 cm higher than the maximum height of the base.

As for the lowest point, there is no need to put a beacon here, just an estimate of the vertical spread of the value will allow us to find out the approximate thickness of the future concrete screed.

Step back from the main wall by 20-30 cm, from the adjacent wall by 5 cm, and draw a straight line running parallel to the walls.

For this, it is best to use the following method. First, drill holes at the marked extreme corner points, stepping back the prescribed distance from the walls. Next, insert the dowels here and screw in the self-tapping markers. Then, through these 2 screws at the ends of each line, we stretch a nylon thread that runs along the entire length of the room, with the exception of the indentation from the walls. The thread in the future will greatly help to detail the markup.

In principle, instead of a thread, you can also use rectilinear beacon rails spread out along the length and width of the room, taking into account the indentation from the walls, it will be a little faster, but the thread is still more accurate and reliable. It's up to you.

Let's move on to the next parallel line. You can also first mark and mark the extreme points near the walls with self-tapping screws and pull the thread. Important! When marking each subsequent line “in latitude”, use the rule, given its length - they are from 50 cm to 3 m. It is better to take the rule from 1.5 to 2.0 meters long (the latter option is preferable). In this case, the markers must be placed so that they rest against the ends of the rule. In other words, if, for example, you have a rule of 2 m, then make a mark for a self-tapping screw on the next line no more than every 1.9 m, that is, slightly less than the length of the rule. Make sure that in the end the rule fits on a kind of beacon "rails". In general, the width and number of row spacings will depend on the length of your rule and the geometry of the room. If, for example, it is 6 m, the length of the rule is 1.5 m, then you will get 4 rows of guide rails, taking into account all the indents.

After we break all the lines into more detailed segments of about 40-80 cm long, depending on the footage. Intermediate markers are very necessary - this will greatly strengthen the entire system of guide beacons. We step back from the extreme point and make intermediate holes along the thread, insert the dowels, then screw in the self-tapping markers and “adjust” the screw heads to the desired height. The thread stretched between the two extreme markers will serve as a guide.

The top heads of the screws should go at the same level, focusing on the maximum “slide” of the foundation plus the planned number of centimeters of the screed above this level. Yes, there is important nuance- the height at which the heads of your self-tapping screws are located should be 5-10 mm lower than the final layer of the screed, based on the height of the beacons.

Then we fix the guide rails-machki on the screws. Here they should already go along the planned height marked by the level. Beacons can be fixed using special fasteners (which are put on screws in advance). Again, make sure that the beacons are at the same height according to the marking of the building level.

Everything, the markup is over.

The process of creating a screed with your own hands

Let's start with the solution.
If you did not buy a special mixture in the store, then you need to prepare a cement-sand mortar. The standard method of preparing the mixture is to take 3 parts of sand for 1 part of cement (ratio 1 to 3). Cement and sand are better to buy special.

We put all this together with water (in a ratio of 50 to 50) in a container and mix thoroughly with a spatula, trowel or special nozzle for puncher. If necessary, add water and again stir the solution to a pasty one-color consistency. Sometimes, to the cement-sand mixture for strength and to avoid moisture loss, a little starter putty, an adhesive mixture for tiles, or a special plasticizer additive are added.

If you bought a special dry mix - that one is easier here - you need to pour it into a bowl of water and mix very thoroughly. After 5-10 minutes, the solution will be ready. Most importantly, do not forget to read the instructions.

The consumption of a standard screed is calculated using the following exemplary formula. For 1 sq. m of space on a layer 1 mm thick takes 2 kg of solution. For example, you plan to have a screed thickness of 4 cm, then about 80 kg of cement-sand mortar (1 mm * 10 * 2 kg. * 4 cm) will be spent on 1 "square" of the area, of which 20 kg is cement and 60 kg - sand. Consumption for special building mixtures are indicated in the instructions.

Laying (filling) screed.
After fixing the beacons, we proceed to laying the cement-sand mortar. By the way, in this work, an assistant would not interfere with you, who will interfere with the solution while you are laying the screed.

It is better to make a screed of such a thickness that it is at least 2 cm higher from the maximum point of the base foundation. In this case, the total thickness of the screed usually varies from 2-3 cm to 8-10 cm, although it can be thicker. It is not recommended to make a screed thinner than 2 cm, otherwise it will become defective. If you buy a special mixture, the thickness of the screed is traditionally indicated in the instructions.

So, first we lay it out in heaps, then we level it over the area using a level that moves along special guide rails along our markings.

The solution must begin to be laid on the strip between the beacons from the wall, which is opposite entrance doors. You need to level the concrete mixture by moving the rule “toward yourself” and slightly moving from one side to the other. Also, try not only to level the mixture with the rule, but also to tamp the concrete a little with a trowel.

Level until there are no bumps on top. If there are recesses somewhere, add mortar there and level the mixture again. It is recommended to pierce into separate places screed with ordinary wire so that excess air comes out.

Align not to the very end marked with a level - leave about 2 mm above the beacons - the screed will settle a little later.

Sometimes repairmen strengthen the screed with a special reinforcing mesh, which is laid directly on the laid mortar. So the screed will be much stronger. This is especially true for concrete joints, severe cracks, etc. Traditionally, such a mesh is laid if the screed is thicker than 5-6 cm. The mesh should be approximately 10 by 10 cm.

After the cement-sand screed has set, you can remove the beacons and carefully cover the holes and grooves. Remember that the “sticking” time of the cement-sand mixture is about 45-60 minutes, but the screed will not dry completely soon - the recommended time for further use of the coating (laying decorative coating, finishes, etc.) - at least after 3 weeks. All subsequent finishing work cannot be started until our screed is completely dry.

In principle, on this direct repair work on laying the cement-sand screed are completed.

Final work.
After you have laid the screed and it has “grabbed”, it must be periodically watered every 4-5 days with ordinary water (you can soak the floor with a construction roller). This will help in the future to avoid cracking of the screed and its delamination. While the mixture dries, you can cover the screed with ordinary polyethylene to retain moisture. Drafts are not allowed, so close all windows and doors tightly for the drying period; it is also impossible to use thermal electrical appliances installed close to the screed.

That's all! Good luck with your repair and a flat floor!

Concrete and cement floors serve for decades, do not creak and generally do not cause any problems to residents. Of course, if all the work is done technically correctly. Therefore, we offer you a comprehensive instruction for pouring floor screed with sand-concrete mixtures under different types do-it-yourself coatings.

The essence of leveling the floor with a screed

There are three typical circumstances when the screed becomes almost the only way to arrange an even and reliable base for the subsequent laying of the final floor.

The first option is concrete floors and ceilings with significant irregularities and defects. First of all, this is typical for apartments in panel houses, where the gaps between the “voids” and casting defects do not allow the surface to be used as a subfloor. Cast ceilings can be seriously filled up in the general plane, especially in new buildings. In such cases, the screed is performed by the standard method.

Another thing is if the floor level needs to be raised by 15-20 cm, when pouring concrete is extremely unprofitable financially. A classic example is ground flooring on the first floor. In this case, the screed is poured over the bedding of crushed stone or expanded clay. This is called a screed on the bulk layer, the technology of work has significant differences.

The third option is the most exotic. If a mechanical characteristics the subfloor does not allow to lay the desired type of coating, the so-called preparatory screed is poured on top. The most common example is the floors in the bathrooms of wooden houses.

Keep in mind: the screed aims to both correct the overall plane of the floor and level out local irregularities when covering the entire floor with a common layer of small thickness. On the practical side, sand concrete screed is the most acceptable and affordable way preparation of almost any floor for popular types of coatings: linoleum, laminate, vinyl type-setting or self-leveling floor.

What compounds to use

Traditionally, for screeding in residential premises, sand concrete is used in the proportion of 3.5 parts of sand to one part of grade 300 cement. In technical premises, the binder should be replaced with Portland cement of grade 400. With a screed layer up to 50 mm, this composition is optimal.

Thicker layers may require larger filler. Allowed to use granite sifting and crumb, expanded clay and crushed stone of fine fraction. Filler larger than 15 mm is not recommended.

To improve some characteristics, frost-resistant additives, plasticizers and modifiers can be added to the mixture. To increase the fluidity of the mixture and easier leveling, you can add about a tablespoon detergent for dishes for 20-25 liters of water.

It is conditionally possible to call a screed and a self-leveling floor that does not require alignment with beacons. With a minimum layer of 10 mm, such a screed can cost a pretty penny, especially if the difference between the lowest and highest points exceeds 35-50 mm. It will be easier if you level the subfloor with ordinary sand concrete to eliminate the general difference, and after 2-3 days fill the self-leveling floor with the minimum possible layer.

Do I need reinforcement and insulation

Operating conditions of the floor can be completely different. If the layer thickness exceeds 40-50 mm, the coating may not tolerate thermal expansion and seasonal fluctuations of the building. With a 70-80 mm screed, the formation of cracks is practically guaranteed. If for linoleum and type-setting coatings this is quite tolerable, then bulk compositions will reflect all screed defects on themselves.

To strengthen the screed, use a nylon or steel mesh with a mesh of 30-60 mm and reinforced (welded) crossings. The synthetic mesh is stretched on self-tapping screws screwed into the preparatory floor, or on thin knitting needles made of knitting wire, fixed in the bedding. It is also possible to lay the mesh in a freshly poured mixture. Due to their own high rigidity, steel reinforcing meshes can be placed on remote "chairs".

Cement floor insulation is also widely practiced. First of all, when the screed is used as an accumulation layer for underfloor heating. Thermal insulation it is carried out with materials resistant to uniform compression: plates made of foamed polystyrene and polyurethane. The thickness of the screed must be at least 30 mm with mandatory synthetic reinforcement. When laying the insulation on the bedding, preliminary leveling with washed sand is required with a layer of 50-70 mm.

Work order

The first step before pouring is to eliminate absolutely all gaps and crevices through which water can seep. Hollow floor slabs promise another danger: water can flow into them and not flow out from below. A damp ceiling and a swelling floor are guaranteed in the next six months, damage to the power grid laid inside the voids is possible.

Waterproofing needs to be done even by a private developer: the rapid outflow of water from the mass does not allow the hydration of the cement in the mixture to complete, which is why the floor will not gain the necessary strength. The controversial question about the screed on the bulk layer: how in this case to prevent seepage? Here it is necessary to fill in two layers with a time interval of at least a day. The first layer is poured directly onto the bedding, although more and more often it is first covered with geotextiles so that the water does not entrain the cement. The upper layer will then have time to form normally, and the residual laitance flow will strengthen the underlying masses. The second version is also suitable for a wooden floor: the cavity to be filled is lined with a polyethylene film hermetically joined at the seams.

After the floor is sealed and waterproofed, lay out reinforcing mesh on remote stands. Next, we give a zero mark on the walls and install beacons. Pure alabaster should not be used here, it shrinks. Beacons can be quickly installed by mixing building gypsum into a solution of a freshly prepared batch. After applying small tubercles to the floor, we lay the first strip of the lighthouse 10-15 cm from the wall and align it with the lacing. The second and subsequent strips are installed according to the rack or laser level, after laying every third beacon, the common plane is checked by the rule.

Usually, pouring is carried out by two workers: one prepares the batch, and the other sets the next 2-3 beacons on the remnants of the previously mixed mass.

Subfloor post-processing

Speaking about the thickness of the screed, we always mean the final value after surface treatment. Depending on the floor covering, the floor can be processed in different ways, while the thickness can either decrease or increase within 0.5 mm.

The two most well-known processing methods are grinding and ironing. The first aims to get rid of the upper layer formed by a fine fraction of sand and rare milk, which will wipe unevenly, creak and dust. Grinding is performed after two weeks of drying of the screed. Ironing, on the contrary, is carried out immediately after the sand concrete has set, and its purpose is exactly the opposite - to strengthen the top layer.

If the surface of the screed is not exploited, it is allowed not to perform such processing. For laminate, parquet and other type-setting coatings, it is better to impregnate the screed with a primer, and then wash it thoroughly. The difference here is linoleum - under it the screed is impregnated with diluted 1: 1 polyvinyl adhesive.

In order to lay the tiles qualitatively and evenly, grouting is performed on top of the primed screed with an adhesive composition that will be used when tiling. This helps to smooth out the remaining irregularities, reduce the screed layer above the insulation to 20 mm using fiberglass facade mesh, improve adhesion. After drying, the surface is treated with a grinding wheel to remove the “glaze” that prevents deep absorption of the tile adhesive.

The screed allows you to get rid of irregularities and different kind floor defects. There are several types of concrete screed. The specific type of coating is selected taking into account the characteristics of the surface condition, the purpose of the floor, the need for sound insulation and additional insulation, installation of heating structures, etc. By choosing the appropriate technology and purchasing necessary materials, you will be able to independently cope with the work of pouring concrete screed.

Depending on the procedure for preparing the initial surface and the characteristics of the formation of the coating, 4 main types of concrete screed can be distinguished.

The easiest and most popular option. Over existing slabs interfloor overlap the solution is simply poured and leveled. No additional action is taken.

Screed with moisture insulation

This type is designed for kitchens, bathrooms and other places that are characterized by constant high humidity and there is a risk of large volumes of liquid getting on the floor.

Before pouring the screed, the waterproofing material is laid.

By default, the heat-insulating layer is laid when making a concrete screed over the ground. Also, this screed is perfect for protecting living rooms from basements and other unheated premises.

Such work involves pouring a thin self-leveling coating over the finished concrete screed. It is used in the case of leveling surfaces under linoleum, laminate and other materials that are sensitive to any kind of unevenness.

First, an ordinary screed is poured, and then a thin self-leveling mortar. Such solutions are sold in specialized stores. It is strongly not recommended to use self-leveling compounds without first performing the main screed.

Screed thickness is the most important parameter

Before starting work on arranging the screed, you need to determine how thick the fill layer should be specifically in your situation. The determining factors are the following:

type of base on top of which the screed will be poured;
the required strength of the screed;
required values of waterproofing and insulation.

It is important to choose such a thickness at which the load of the screed on the floor would not exceed the permissible norms and at the same time the fill could withstand the expected loads from the interior of the room.

If the screed is carried out in a new building, the required layer thickness must be indicated in the project documentation.

If the screed will be poured to replace the old coating, you should try to maximum degree adhere to the parameters of the old screed. If necessary new fill can be improved by adding insulation or installing a floor heating system.

The thickness of the concrete layer varies from 2.5 to 8 cm. It is impossible to make a screed thinner than the permissible lower limit, since its strength characteristics will not be enough and it will collapse very quickly.

Prepare concrete using cement grade from M400. Select a specific set and characteristics of source materials individually in accordance with the characteristics of your situation.

Having determined the optimal layer thickness and calculated the consumption of materials, you can proceed to the preparatory work.

Preparation for pouring the screed

The arrangement of a concrete screed is a responsible job that requires thorough preparation. In this case, the preparation is carried out in several stages. Do each one in sequence.

Basic training

The initial preparation will vary depending on whether it is planned to perform a screed over the floor or whether the concrete will be poured onto the ground. First, your attention is invited to the option with a screed device on the finished floor.

First step. Dismantle the old screed, if present. The fastest and most convenient way to destroy the coating is with a perforator.

Second step. Clean the floors from dirt and prime. Pour the primer directly onto the base and smooth over the surface with a roller or brush.

In case of filling screeds on the ground the basic preparatory step will be performed in a different sequence.

First step. Clear the soil of vegetation.

Second step. Fill the base with a layer of sand or expanded clay and tamp.

Third step. Plan your plumbing and sewer pipes if the screed device is carried out in the bathroom. Perform the installation of the planned communications.

Warming

Insulate the base using expanded clay backfill or foam boards. Use whichever is more convenient for you. The main thing is that the heat-insulating layer is as rigid as possible.

Expanded clay is better suited for your own homes, polystyrene - for ordinary apartments.

To protect the base from moisture, use roofing material or a thick plastic film. Lay strips of moisture-proofing material with an overlap of about 15 cm. You also need to provide a 10-cm overlap on the walls of the room.

Sealant should be additionally used at the joints of waterproofing with pipes.

Waterproofing is mandatory in kitchens and bathrooms. In other situations, the arrangement of this layer will only make sense for additional protection of apartments located on the lower floor of the house from basement dampness.

This stage is performed only in the case of pouring the screed on the ground. For reinforcement, use a fine-mesh mesh of reinforcement or special wire. Select a specific reinforcement option individually, taking into account the area and other features of the room.

Mounting accessories

If you are planning to build an underfloor heating system, or if you want to run electrical wiring under the main flooring, take all the appropriate measures at this stage.

After the successful completion of all preparatory measures, proceed to work on pouring the concrete screed.

Tune in to the most attentive and responsible performance of work. Even the slightest mistake when pouring the screed can lead to extremely unpleasant consequences.

The first stage - markup

To make the fill as even as possible, use beacons in the form of rails.

First step. Install the first rail. Lay the slats on the mortar and, if necessary, additionally fasten with screws. The first beacon should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the far wall.

Second step. Fasten the next rail at a distance of about 100-150 cm from the first beacon.

1 - stamps; 2 - pipes; A, B, C - screed laying strips

Third step. Distribute the slats evenly throughout the room. Allow the mortar used to fix the rails to set and dry.

The second stage is the preparation of the solution

You can buy immediately ready mix for concrete screed. In specialized stores, such mixtures are presented in a large assortment. Select the appropriate composition and prepare it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Also, a screed can be made from an ordinary mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 3. Additionally, tile glue can be added to such a screed mixture - it will increase the strength of the finished coating. The solution should not be too dry, but a composition that spreads too much is also not suitable. Experiment and look for the optimal ratio of components. Such a composition is suitable for seldom visited premises in which the installation of a concrete screed does not make sense.

Concrete is better to order in finished form. This will save you from unnecessary work and will allow you to be sure of the quality and uniformity of the solution.

The third stage - pouring the solution

Proceed to pouring the solution over the beacons. Try to do it in one go. Consider the setting time of the solution. For example, a mixture of sand and cement will be impossible to level in less than an hour after its preparation. It is forbidden to add additional water to the dried mortar, as this leads to a significant deterioration in the performance of the fill.

First step. Pour the solution between the beacons furthest from the front door.

Second step. Flatten the fill using a rule. Check the fill layer with a level. If necessary, add concrete in places with insufficient amount of it.

Third step. Fill in all the remaining lanes between the other beacons in the same way. Pierce each section with a thin pin in several places to remove excess air.

After a day, you can remove the beacons. Fill the voids with mortar and level it with a trowel or grout.

Fourth step - polishing

Wait for the concrete to dry and carefully sand the surface. This will level the base and prepare it for any final floor covering.

Eliminate especially large bulges with the help of an angled grinder. After that, you can proceed to the planned finishing finishing work.

Thus, there is nothing super complicated in self-pouring a concrete floor screed. However, you need to be attentive and take the most responsible approach to the implementation of each technological event in order to obtain a high-quality, reliable and durable coating. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed

The main and most important function of the floor screed is to level the surface, because it is the middle layer between the base and the final floor covering. No exercise this stage make repairs quality repair just impossible. And watching the constant rise in prices, many owners do the floor screed with their own hands.

Preparation for laying the screed

Before proceeding with the floor screed on your own, you need to purchase the material and the right tool:

Trowel and spatula;
Level;
Roulette and knife;
Specialized roller for overlay;
Mixer or drill with a nozzle;
A container in which the solution will be mixed.

Short list of actions

The foundation is being prepared;
The level and height difference are determined;
Beacons are mounted;
The mixture is made
There is a pouring on the base;
"Maturation" of the screed.

Foundation preparation

The first step is to carry out the manufacture of flooring, clean of any debris and previous finishes. Carry out a thorough audit and, if necessary, repair all cracks and potholes using special repair mixtures. After filling the cracks, you need to vacuum the floor layer.

Then it is attached in a circle on the walls, which serves as the necessary buffer for the thermal expansion of the future screed. We also make sure to do moisture insulation, for this we put a polypropylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.2 mm on the previously repaired ceiling. This insulation can be carried out using a special bituminous mixture, which is usually applied by roller. With this method, the film is not used.

If a film is used, then it is overlapped at least 15 centimeters and fastened with ordinary tape.

Height differences when laying the screed

Such an important moment as the evenness of the new screed and the final height of the floors directly depends on this indicator. And the material consumption and, accordingly, material costs also depend on the thickness of the screed.

To begin with, you need to derive the so-called zero level, for this you need to use a laser or hydraulic level.

A mark is made at around 1.4 meters from the floor, which, using the level, is transferred to all the walls of the room, thus, a large number of points are obtained that need to be connected together.

Further, from the resulting horizon, the distance to the floor is measured, as we get the smallest value, it means that we got highest point existing floor. And the highest value obtained indicates the lowest point of the existing coverage. The difference between the largest and smallest value obtained will mean the difference in the existing floor and from this indicator it will be clear how to make a new screed.

For example, highest value is 1.4 m, and the smallest is 1.35 m. This means that the difference is: 1.4 - 1.35 \u003d 5 centimeters.

The minimum possible layer of cement screed made is three centimeters, the floor screed technology does not allow a decrease in this indicator, which means that the future screed will have a height of 8 centimeters in the deepest part, and 3 centimeters in the shallow part.

If the difference is less than three centimeters, then for leveling it is better to use self-leveling self-leveling floors, the instructions written for each type of self-leveling floor regulate the permissible height of the screed.

If the difference is more than 5 centimeters, then in apartment buildings it is impossible to fill in a screed of such dimensions, because the load on the floors can increase significantly and its own weight will bring down the floor. In this option, boardwalk is used.

Installation of lighthouses

Beacons are used to ensure the perfect evenness of the future screed, because it is on them that the entire screed is equal. As lighthouses, special perforated profiles are used, they are attached directly to the floor, the correct installation is checked using a level.

The distance between the last beacon and the wall should be twenty centimeters, and the distance between adjacent beacons is chosen arbitrarily, depending on the width of the rule. To isolate the future screed from other rooms in doorway you need to build a small formwork.

How to do cps

Having installed and fixed the beacons, you should proceed to a direct consideration of the question of how to make a cement screed. This requires three main ingredients (cement, water, sand) and the addition of special plasticizers is desirable.

The recipe looks like this:

In the prepared container, the dry ingredients are mixed. Stir thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained, The best way stir the mixture is the use of a drill with a nozzle, then water is added;
The prepared mixture should have the consistency of thick sour cream. To check, draw the solution into the palm of your hand and squeeze, while it should not separate into pieces or spread like jelly;
Next, be sure to add any available plasticizer, the proportions of addition to the solution will be indicated directly on the label. When using an additive, the solution becomes more resistant to cracking during the drying period;

How to fill the screed

After preparing the solution, you need to start laying the floor screed technology requires that the prepared mixture be laid within two hours.

It is necessary to start pouring from the far edge, moving from the entrance to the exit when pouring. The mixture simply falls out between the fixed beacons and equalizes with the application of the rule. The solution must be leveled exclusively on the beacons.

“Maturation” of concrete

I filled the solution, leveling it, the screed is left for several days, as soon as it can be stepped on, the screed is wetted with water and covered with a film. Wetting should be carried out regularly, about once every three days. The curing period of a concrete screed is approximately equal to three and a half weeks.

While drying the screed, it is simply necessary to eliminate drafts in the room. Otherwise, the floor may crack due to uneven drying of the concrete mortar.

This material covered in detail the question of how a floor screed is made, having studied this material, you can easily carry out this species do-it-yourself home renovation. It is enough to follow the recommendations and instructions, and if you have an assistant, the whole process will go faster and much easier.

Brief video instruction:

The floor screed is the part of the base that is located between the ceiling and the finishing coating. Without it, it is impossible to make the floors perfectly even - such that even the most demanding installation conditions can be laid on them without fear. finishing material. You can’t do without it when building a house and even during the overhaul, but how to make a floor screed is a very difficult question for many. Let's try to figure out how to create it with your own hands.

The screed is not only a structural element of the floor, responsible for its leveling. It performs other equally important functions - for example, it takes over and redistributes all the loads experienced by the floor covering. But still, the most important function of the screed is precisely the alignment of the base. It is necessary in order to easily and correctly lay flooring, some types of which are quite demanding on the evenness of the subfloor. For example, ceramic tile, parquet and other materials will quickly become unusable if they are used lying on an uneven floor. They will begin to break and collapse, and when moving along the coating, it will emit an unpleasant creak.

Another function that the screed performs is increase in heat, sound and waterproofing properties sexes. Also, due to it, it is easy to raise the level of the base to the required level if necessary.

What is the screed?

The floor screed can be divided according to several criteria into different kinds. For example, depending on the manufacturing method, it can be dry, wet, combined.

Table. The main types of screeds.

View	Description and characteristics
	This option is made without the use of heavy mortars. The technology is used to level floors with very large height differences (up to 11 cm), as well as in rooms where floors cannot experience significant load. In this case, a dry screed can be laid along the logs and be made of plywood or chipboard, or it can be made of sheets of gypsum fiber, which is laid on expanded clay bedding. The thickness of the screed can be quite large. Dry screed is easy to perform, does not require drying after production, is very light, does not exert a load on the floors and foundation of the building.
	This screed can also be called concrete or cement. The most familiar and most commonly used way of leveling and raising the floor. As a rule, it is used for the initial stage of leveling floors or subfloors. It is made on the basis of cement with the addition of fillers, it is laid in a layer of 3 cm or more. Difficult to work with, takes a long time to dry, but very strong and durable. Unfortunately, it exerts significant non-overlapping pressure due to its considerable weight, and therefore cannot be applied to all types of buildings. For 1 sq.m. accounts for at least 100-120 kg mortar- the mass is quite impressive.
	This type of screed combines the main advantages and, in some way, the technology of wet and self-leveling screeds.
	This method is good because there is no need to use beacons and somehow monitor the evenness of the finished base. The fact is that special mixtures are used for manufacturing, which tend to self-level on the surface of the subfloor. Such compounds are quite expensive, and they can be filled with floors with irregularities up to 2 cm. Often, due to this method, you can additionally level the usual cement screed.

Also, screeds are divided into different types depending on the number of layers. Thus, they are single layer(poured immediately at a time to the required thickness) and multilayer. The latter have the so-called rough and finish surfaces. As a rule, the rough base has a thickness of 2 cm or more, and the finishing one - 3-20 mm.

According to the type of connection with overlappings, screeds can be divided into solid and floating. The first has a reliable connection with the draft base, the second has no hitch with anything. For installation, hydro- and heat-insulating materials are used.

What can be used to create a screed?

Depending on the type of screed, they can be made of various materials. Yes, to create wet screed cement, water and sand are used. Cement in this case acts as a binding material, and sand becomes a filler. To improve the quality of building mixtures, various components can be added to them to improve strength and reduce drying time.

On a note! To prepare such a mixture, it is necessary to mix 1 part of cement with 3 parts of sand. The required amount of water is added to them. This is a fairly economical option.

To create a wet screed, ready-made sand concrete sold in stores can also be used. Its main disadvantage is the high shrinkage rate. Because of this, the thickness of the screed layer cannot be less than 3 cm, otherwise it will quickly become covered with cracks.

Advice! To reduce the risk of cracking of the screed, fiber fibers are added to the raw composition, or layers of reinforcing mesh are laid on the rough base.

Gypsum-based mixtures are used for wooden floors. This material can be laid in a thin layer, as it practically does not shrink. Drying time is also attractive - only 1-2 days. The only exception in terms of the use of such compounds is high humidity in the premises.

Self-levelling or usually used for the final leveling of conventional wet screed. The reason is the rather high cost of the material. Such a composition is used for leveling floors with an unevenness of 2-7 mm.

Required for manufacturing sheet materials type of drywall, as well as expanded clay of medium and small fractions for backfilling the base. The joints of individual sheets of material are treated with adhesives.

How to make a floor screed

Work on the installation of floor screed invariably raises questions from beginners. Below are instructions for creating a dry, wet and semi-dry screed. However, no matter which option is chosen by the masters, in any case, before starting work, it is important to prepare a rough foundation.

Features of the preparation of the base

To begin with, if the house was not built from scratch, you will need to get rid of the old floor finish. Moreover, you will have to remove the old screed up to the overlap. It is especially important to repair any flaws on the base. It can be cracks, chips, any gaps. All this must be sealed with a sealant or cement composition after preliminary priming in order to avoid too much consumption of mixtures (relative to a wet screed) and to increase the adhesion of the compositions to the base.

Preparing the base for the screed - photo

On a note! Sometimes a new screed is poured directly on top of the old one, but this is only acceptable if the previous version of the base is strong enough. However, only an experienced specialist will be able to assess the condition of the old screed. Sometimes it is even enough to use just self-leveling compounds to make the old base perfectly even.

You can clean the floor from the old screed using a jackhammer. Further, the base is cleared of construction waste, which is placed in strong bags and taken to a landfill.

Small protrusions on the old screed can be removed with a grinder. After preparation, it is important to prime the base in order to increase adhesion.

Making a wet screed

Step 1. Everything is prepared first necessary tools and materials. This is a building level, slats that will act as beacons, self-tapping screws and dowels, building mixtures, sand and cement, as a rule, a perforator.