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Homemade folding boat. Double folding boat Equipment set for fishermen and hunters

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Many did not even know that you can swim in a homemade plywood boat. The article will provide a step-by-step description of all the processes for its manufacture, drawings and lists of everything needed from materials to tools. The instructions are also accompanied by illustrations of work and a video on the manufacture of the structure by the master.

Preparation of material and tools

  • Plywood;
  • polyurethane adhesive;
  • Nails;
  • Latex based paint;
  • silicone sealant;
  • Construction syringe (it will be needed to seal the seams of the structure);
  • Sandpaper;
  • Jigsaw;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Roulette;
  • Brush;
  • clamp;
  • Drill;
  • Paracord (staples).

One of the sheets of purchased plywood must be divided into 3 parts for the bottom of the structure: 46x61 cm, 61x168 cm and 31x61 cm. The sides of the boat will be two pieces measuring 31 by 244 cm. To create props, we take 3 pieces with parameters 25x50x2400 mm. A cut of 25x76x2400 mm is required for the stern and bow of the boat. The hull of a home-made boat made of plywood for fishing is made from pieces with parameters of 25x50x2400 mm.

Note! Subsequently, the pieces on the body will be connected with paracord.

Creating a project with drawings

There are many projects for homemade plywood boats, ranging from a simple punt used for fishing to a complex tourist kayak. There are both prefabricated and folding structures. To begin with, let's dwell on the simplest drawing of the vessel, which is presented below.

If a home-made boat made of plywood according to the drawings that was found does not suit you, then you can design your own version, but such an event will require more accurate calculations regarding the carrying capacity of the structure. Otherwise, with the wrong parameters, you can make a huge souvenir that is not able to keep you on the water.

So, having chosen or created our own project for building a plywood boat, we transfer our parameters to paper, creating a design drawing. Using these paper templates, we draw the outlines of the main elements of the boat on plywood sheets, which will serve as an orientation for cutting sheets and frames for sheathing.

Note! In most cases, the size of the factory plywood does not allow you to cut out a single element of the side of the boat. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out the procedure for splicing the sheets.

The splicing of the pieces begins with the cutting of the ends of the sheet at an acute angle. As a result, the hewn part should have a length equal to the thickness of the sheet, increased by 7-10 times. The connected parts with bevelled ends are perfectly shown in the diagram below.

Pieces that are ideally beveled under each other must be smeared with glue along the bevel and firmly clamped with clamps using the “whisker” method. While our pieces are sticking together, you can prepare the bars for the frame of the boat. It will be more convenient to work on goats specially created with your own hands from 5x5 cm bars.

You can also make a homemade folding plywood boat, the drawing of which is presented below.

Assembling the hull of a simple boat

First of all, we will make frames (although you can make them after assembling the plywood frame). Having drawn and sawn the necessary bars, we fasten them with self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Frames

Note! At the stage of sawing out the elements, deviations from the drawing parameters should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides may not be sewn together.

The assembly of a homemade plywood boat is shown in detail in the video, which is added to the article.

First of all, we install a transom on our goats, to which we attach the bottom and sides, leading them a little to the middle, connecting them with brackets on the nose. With a small thickness of the plywood sheet, the sheathing can be connected with suture material or an adhesive mixture. When assembling, make sure that all elements match in size.

Gluing the frames and the side is necessary to provide greater thickness, and, accordingly, increase the strength of the structure. Also, in order to increase the reliability of the connections, it is recommended to additionally fasten the transoms and frames with tin-plated or galvanized self-tapping screws 18 or 25 mm long and 3 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws for the stern and sides are taken a little more: 60 by 4-5 mm.

Adviсe! If a gap is obtained when connecting the elements, it is necessary to disassemble everything and cut it to right size frames. And for a home-made boat made of plywood for a motor, you need to remember to glue the transom with fiberglass, as well as fasten wooden planks made from solid wood.

Special overlays can also be cut on the transom to strengthen the structure as a whole. When all the elements are assembled and converged with each other, then you can start gluing the structure. To make the seams come out especially neat, you can use masking tape that is glued on both sides of each seam.

We produce sizing with a mixture of Aerosil and epoxy resin(1:1), we carefully work with fiberglass so that no bubbles result. The gluing seams should come out even, and the wood structure should still be visible through the fiberglass layers.

Then we turn the almost finished boat upside down and remove the staples if they fasten the elements, and also round the seam joints. Having obtained the desired streamlining, you can also glue the seams from the outside.

In addition to gluing, the structure can be reinforced with 3 layers of glass tape or completely sheathed with fiberglass. You can also add benches to the design, for which we make planks, as well as cut out the stem and install the bow eyebolt. The outer stringers and keel will need high quality materials to keep knots out. The polished elements will strengthen the structure, and also serve as protection for the skin during mooring.

The basics of making a folding structure

You can also make a homemade collapsible plywood boat according to the above drawing. Such a boat will consist of several independent sections, which in turn represent a part of the structure, the length of which is equal to the distance between the frames, which are located nearby. In other words, the boat is "cut" into pieces.

The sections are assembled by means of bolts, and for a snug fit of the parts to each other, a rubber seal is laid between the sections. When assembled, all the rest are placed in the largest middle section with a nesting doll. And then all the elements can be packed in a cloth case and easily transported by car or other means of transport.

For the manufacture of collapsible design will need the following materials:

  • Plywood: 2.5 sheets for sheathing - construction 4x1500x1500 mm, part 1 sheet for the stem and frames - 10x900x1300;
  • Boards for removable seats.

Plywood must be purchased in grade 1 so that there are no knots, but there is a hitch! Boards 6 m long - we take one coniferous tree 2 cm thick, and the other from any tree 4 cm thick. We also need meter-long beech boards to finish the side of our boat.

First of all, we also create a design drawing, after which we do paper templates for transom, frames and stem. In the frames cut with a hacksaw according to the templates, it is necessary to drill the corresponding holes for the bolts, after which we connect the sheets. Frames need to be filed and glued on the outside rubber seal 1 mm thick.

Also, in the frames, you need to make holes for rivets, which will be located in pairs for every 1-5 cm, screwing in 1 cm from the edge. They can be built independently from wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 3 mm from aluminum wire. With the help of a conductor, sections are assembled.

When all the elements are made and assembled, the entire structure must be impregnated with drying oil, it is recommended even in two layers. But always on top of dry plywood. When the drying oil dries up, the inside must be opened with varnish, and the outside with oil paint.

We offer you two designs of homemade folding boats.
The first one, shown in the following picture, is very easy to make and weighs only 13-17 kg.
For its manufacture, you will need two sheets of 4 mm plywood measuring 1525x1525 mm, a wide pine board 1.5-2 cm thick, thin slats, drying oil, oil paint, tin strips 2-2.5 cm wide (can be cut from cans) and 50 mm nails.

First, cut out two blanks of sheathing 1 and blanks from boards 2, 3 and 4 from plywood, having previously upholstered them on both sides with plywood scraps. Coat the cut blanks and plywood sheets at the joints with thick oil paint, Phoenix, Unicum glue or epoxy glue.
Now nail plywood sheathing 1 to parts 2, 3 and 4. To prevent chips from forming on the edges of the plywood, pre-drill holes along the edges of the sheathing with a Ø 2 mm drill.
The assembled bow and stern parts of the boat are connected so that the bow is 3-4 cm to the stern. Cover all joints with strips of tin, and coat the surface with thick oil paint before upholstery. After that, nail the keel rail on the bottom of the boat and the rails along the sides.
Treat the finished boat with hot drying oil inside and out, and after drying, cover the vessel with two layers of oil paint on both sides, carefully sealing all the cracks and grooves.
The bow of the boat can be made of dense building foam, the sheets of which are glued together with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. After that, cover the bow of the boat with two or three layers of gauze, soaking them with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. Attach the finished nose to the nose board with two stud bolts. The aft part is also made of foam.
The oars of the boat are double, like those of a kayak. The total length of the oar is 220-240 cm. You can use ready-made collapsible metal or wooden kayak oars that are commercially available. Such a vessel has a carrying capacity of 100-110 kg.
The second design consists of four sections. Making it is more difficult and only for those who already have experience with plywood and wood. For work, you will need four sheets of 4 mm plywood.

Having cut the plywood into blanks, you must first process it on both sides with hot drying oil.
The frames use 6 mm plywood, folded in three layers. When cutting plywood, keep in mind that all body parts must be cut along the grain outer layers plywood. Don't forget to leave a small allowance for finishing the ends.
The cut parts are glued together with carpentry, casein or epoxy glue, oil paint and dried under load. For greater strength, the frames along the edges can be flashed with small nails, the ends of which are bent on the other side.
On straight sections, duralumin corners are attached to the frames. This increases the rigidity and strength of the structure. To avoid confusion during assembly, mark the blanks: the first digit is the section number, the second is the part number.
The hull parts are fastened to the frames with thin 30 mm nails, and the corners are fastened with 0 4 mm screws with washers.
Section I at the place of its docking with section II has a large width, so the connection is stepped. This is done so that the sections can fit one into the other during transportation. Sections are stacked in a package in the following order: I - II - III - IV; moreover, sections II and IV are turned over.
For better sealing of the section connections, a rubber tube is used, which is laid next to the bolts on both sides.
The keel rail is made of parts with bevels in the direction of the vessel's movement. Reiki before fastening is pre-treated with hot drying oil and aged for 5 days.
When all sections are ready, paint them with two thin coats of oil paint. Apply the second layer after the first has completely dried. Seal the seams carefully.
Sections during assembly are connected with fixing bolts. Drill holes for them by fastening the sections together with clamps or fixing them with two or three nails.
If you have enough epoxy glue, the bottom of the boat can be pasted over with a layer of fiberglass, adding 10-15 percent acetone to the glue as a thinner. The edges of the glass weavers are bent inside the vessel and fixed there. In this variant, covering with fiberglass should be done after treatment with drying oil, and coloring - after covering.
The rear seat rests on frame 6, and the front seat rests on frame 4. The seat backs can be made movable by fixing them with clamps on aluminum tubes Ø 30 mm. The tubes, in turn, are fixed with clamps on the upper bolts of the frames when assembling the sections.
When preparing for a water trip, be sure to provide life-saving equipment in the boat: volleyball tubes tied together, life jackets, jackets with foam inserts.
Plywood boats, made up of parts that are nested into one another during transportation, like matryoshka dolls, are light and easy to transport. Such a boat can be transported by bus or train.

L. Afrin
Annex to UT No. 5 1986

First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time, - a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but everything was somehow lacking. And then my "Ufimka" burst (it's time already, it's from 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole formed in the side in the form of the letter "G". Believe me, if I wanted to, I could also repair it, but imagine how much material I had at once: oarlocks, and excellent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. It remains for small - to purchase sheet plastic. I considered aluminum as an option, but after getting acquainted with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing happened with the sheet - about 1000 shek one sheet, but I need at least two. I picked up 3mm plastic with the main properties: do not crack under bending load and keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked exactly along the line of holes for rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a load capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. not sinking even when completely flooded, stern, keel with a keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in waves, easy to use with oars and with a low dead weight, with an option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a chest of drawers for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light stands for spinning and of course with minimal time for installation and dismantling. I have gone through all of these options. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working order, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, height of the sides 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, aft insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now about how I had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldier mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), seats and feed are pasted over with the same strips, all tubes of the frame are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I have marked places on the bow and stern of the boat for attaching 2 floats, similar to those that the rescuers from the famous series have). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my "Ufimka", planted on glue with subsequent riveting. He carried out all the work in his apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the whole system easily hid behind the sofa.








I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for onboard plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for seats and oarlocks - trimmings, edging along the top of the side - trimming pipes for drip irrigation. The rest is hands. And how much it can cost for sale, I don’t know, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the lower seam, I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) into 3 seams, there is an option for connecting with a tube and side seams for oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, a wooden lattice 50x60cm between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom is enough. I also want to pull the umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large residue after cutting. So I went to the minimum.

PS. The cost of materials is indicated in NIS.

Production time, so, leisurely, - about a week. It took a lot of time to find the right plastic. After all, I am retired, so when my household members left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that I had rubber, oarlocks and oars from a broken boat, and the rest is a matter of technology. But first I made a 25 cm model of thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame plastic pipes and thin canvas. She was in a disassembled state no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. Here's what I want to do as well. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine in general.
As for the pattern, everything is simple there. The width of the canvas is 30 cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow is 1.5 meters. Step back from the nasal edge 1 meter and reduce with two arcs to the middle. The photo is clearly visible. But, I advise all the same to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape (adhesive tape). On the model, you can provide for all possible options, and it is much easier to correct errors. To be honest, I did not betray the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, felt, broke. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I kept the buoyancy in the flooded state due to additional side pads from the soldier's rug. Glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing: cleaning, cleaning and degreasing the surfaces to be glued, and obligatory curing for min. 15 minutes after applying the adhesive, before bonding. And I also consider it very important to glue the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like in factory boats.
About changes. I have already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity goes to the "bow" of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overflows, so the seat for the rower moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. As for the board height, I proceeded from the maximum cutting of a standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33 cm, will still be preferable, and stability will increase by increasing the overall width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
You don’t need to beat anyone with oars, when there are two in the boat, then the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one, but, if desired, the boat will withstand the second. Good luck!

Foldable boat under mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

Before you start building wooden boat, it is necessary to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, long, enough wide boards which are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choice of boards for work

Before you start production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After that, it is necessary to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other have no gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.


The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The beam is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to look for and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions from above and below so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to determine the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a spacer board the size of the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.

When the strut is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people for help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that there are no gaps and cracks when connecting the back wall and sides.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed on top of the struts. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

Align on the bottom of everything in one plane and process protective layer the entire surface. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom will be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find one that matches the size of the boat.


How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands

Put the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a margin of a few centimeters just in case, you can always trim the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water in.

When this process is completed, we proceed to the connection of the bottom with the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat on top of it. lower part. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move to the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the nose of the boat from external factors with the help of the same metal. Cut out a rectangle of tin according to the size of the boat.

Everywhere where wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start "wrapping" the nose with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.


Be sure to make a mount on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, as on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and review all the ideas of what you can make a boat out of. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the reverse side, since galvanized metal collapses over time upon contact with water. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and, as a result, the boat should be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. So the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

This will complete the boat. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with a description to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.

DIY boat photo