How to make a wooden gazebo with your own hands. A step-by-step master class on building a gazebo: in a simple but tasteful way. Building a gazebo with your own hands

There is no such land owner who would not dream of equipping it in the best possible way, equipping cozy places for outdoor recreation. A gazebo is a traditional element of landscape design, but there are a lot of varieties of these light buildings, and therefore it can be difficult to decide on the choice of the desired model, as well as decide on its independent construction without at least theoretical training.

The question of how to build with your own hands has always been and remains relevant, as more and more urban residents move out of town for permanent residence or acquire summer cottages. When starting the construction of any building, first you need to decide how it should look, which is why it makes sense to consider several design options for gazebos that you can easily raise yourself.

Popular types of gazebos

These summer buildings may differ in style and design, size, and material of manufacture. And the optimal model is selected depending on the size and design of the site, as well as the personal preferences of its owners.

Lattice gazebos

Gazebos sheathed with grating along the diagonal of the walls are quite popular for summer cottages and private territories, as they give good shade, and at the same time do not interfere with the flow of fresh air. An important condition for choosing the installation site of such a building is an enclosed space where there is no draft, otherwise the gazebo will be built in vain, since it will not be very comfortable to be in it. If the summer cottage has not yet been planted with trees and there is no area that is not blown by the winds, then it is recommended that the lee side of such a gazebo be made “deaf”.

Such arbors are most often built so that, over time, stems of climbing perennial plants can climb along the lattice walls, which will create protection from the wind and fill the space under the roof with constant freshness. If you plant flowering plants around the building, then, relaxing in it on a hot day or a cool evening, you can enjoy your favorite aromas.

The disadvantage of such an arbor, until it is entwined with vegetation, lies in its openness and exposure to jets of oblique heavy rain, so it will not work to hide in it from such bad weather.

Another version of an already larger gazebo with two rear “blind” walls that completely cover its interior from the eyes of neighbors also has a lattice sheathing - in the lower panel part and under the roof itself. After the climbing plants planted around the building climb the lower crate, you can stretch the ropes from it to the finish under the roof at the right distance from each other, thereby forming “windows” framed with greenery and flowers.

The roof of the gazebo shown is covered with transparent polycarbonate, which has a green tint, which gives a calm, pleasing to the eye lighting inside. This factor will certainly contribute, in combination with fresh air, to the most comfortable rest.

Due to the fact that the gazebo is quite large, it is raised above the ground by about 200 mm on a columnar foundation. This will help keep the floor boards from the harmful effects of moisture, as the space under the building will be constantly ventilated.

Small original gazebo

This original design of a summer vacation spot will not leave guests indifferent, and the residents of the house will be convinced more than once of the comfort of such an arbor. The building has a simple design with, but it is quite roomy, and it may well accommodate a seating area and a table. If desired, the size of the gazebo can be calculated for a specific set of furniture. The blank rear walls of the building will close the space from the wind, and the round entrances in the other two walls will contribute to the ventilation of the room. If desired, round openings can be equipped with waterproof or mosquito-proof curtains, which will allow you to stay in the gazebo in any weather or even stay in it at night when the house gets too stuffy.

Arbor - summer house

This gazebo deserves the name "summer house", which can be used for living in the warm season. For example, if you plan to build an economy version of a house on a summer cottage, then this design is perfect for this purpose.

You can also build such a structure on the site of a private house, since in the summer you want to spend more time outdoors, and thanks to large windows and a door that opens wide, there will be plenty of it indoors.

To build a similar version of the gazebo, more costs will be required, since the design includes windows and glazed doors. But it is thanks to these elements that you can achieve complete comfort for relaxation, both in the daytime and at night, and in any weather.

Arbor - pergola

The pergola came to Russian landscape design from the Italian style of garden design, where, in accordance with the peculiarities of its design, it could serve as a canopy, arch or extension. Thanks to domestic improvements, this kind of garden structures has become a real decoration of many summer cottages and territories of private houses.

The pergola is installed in order to create a support for climbing plants, as protection from the hot sun for a certain place on the site, a gazebo for relaxation, or simply as a decorative element of the garden. Therefore, the model of this building must be chosen depending on what tasks will be assigned to it, but most often it is used for several purposes at once.

The first photo shows a covered pergola installed as a canopy over a recreation area. In fact, she created an open gazebo, under which a massive table fits, just enough for a large family to gather around it, as well as a grill built into the back wall. The convenience of the design lies in the fact that you don’t need to make a foundation under the covered space - it will be enough to lay or lay garden plastic panels on top of the ground. The basis will have to be done only for the supporting pillars.

In this case, the pergola performs three functions at once - a passage arch, supports for a rose bush and gazebos, which successfully complement each other. The benches in this recreation area are located at such a distance that a table can easily fit between them, so it will be great to spend evenings with family tea drinking in such a cozy place. In addition, a gazebo entwined with greenery is a great place to relax on a hot day, where you can hide from the sun, sitting comfortably with a book.

This version of the pergola is designed as a support for climbing plants that will cover a small gazebo, which is sure to become a favorite place for some family members who love privacy. For this version of the gazebo, it is also not necessary to arrange a foundation, due to its low weight, which significantly reduces the overall amount of work. The roof can be left open, as is the case with classic pergola construction, or it can be covered with lightweight roofing material such as plastic slate.

Construction of garden arbors

Having prepared all the necessary tools, you can purchase building materials for the selected gazebo model and proceed to construction work.

jigsaw

Required Tools

When building any model of a gazebo, you cannot do without special tools and fixtures, so you will need to prepare for work:

• Circular saw, electric jigsaw and hacksaw.
• Miter box for sawing structural elements at an angle.
• Electric drill and a set of drills.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer, tape measure, folding rule, construction square, pencil for marking.
• Construction level, plumb.
• Pincers and cutters.
• Drill for making holes in the ground for the installation of foundation pipes.
• Staircase.

Rectangular gazebo

A rectangular gazebo can be called a traditional version of a summer building, since quite often such a design is chosen for installation on a site. It should be noted that such a gazebo is quite comfortable to use and aesthetic in appearance. In addition, if desired, you can make your own adjustments to the design, for example, close one of the walls completely or raise the fence to a higher level.

The building does not have too much mass, so it is installed on or even just on well-compacted soil, reinforced with a layer of rubble, which also provides good drainage.

The depth of laying the foundation, if provided, depends on the characteristics of the soil in a particular area.

Since wood in outdoor conditions will constantly be negatively affected: ultraviolet rays, moisture, wind, etc., it is recommended that the finished parts be carefully treated with water-repellent compounds. Such protection will protect the material from decay, from insects, and maximize the durability of the building.

The diagram below shows a drawing of a gazebo. All its parts are assigned letter designations - they are painted in the table of necessary materials. Further, in the course of the description of the assembly process, drawings will come across in which the dimensions are in inches. To convert to metric: 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm.

For the construction of this gazebo, the following materials will be required, which have letter designations on the diagram, the dimensions on the diagrams are given in inches: 1 inch \u003d 2.54 cm or 254 mm.

	Necessary materials	Dimensions of parts, mm	Quantity, pcs.
Pillar foundation (A)	Asbestos concrete pipes	Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500	9
Racks (B)	wooden beam	100×200×3250	8
Bottom rail of the structure (C)	bar	100×150×3600	2
		100×150×4725	2
Intermediate beams of the floor frame (D)	bar	100×150×1655	4
		100×150×4550	1
		100×150×2240	2
Floor joists (E)	bar	50×150×1750	10
		50×150×2325	8
Floor decking (F)	Boards	50×100×2400	40
		50×100×1800	52
Upper harness (G)	bar	50×150×3600	2
		50×100×4725	2
Gazebo fence (H)	Boards	20×100×675	92
	Beam (tying)	50×100×2230	9
		50×100×1630	12
Roof ridge (I)	bar	50×150×2445	1
		50×100×1930	2
Diagonal rafter legs with a 60 degree cut at the ends (J)	bar	50×100×2760	4
Ordinary rafters (K)	bar	50×100×2450	10
Rafter legs with ends cut at an angle of 34 degrees (L)	bar	50×100×1375	4
Rafter legs with ends cut at an angle of 45 degrees (L)	bar	50×100×800	4
		50×100×1360	4
Base for roofing material (M)	Plywood	15×120×2400	11
Roof waterproofing material (N)	Ruberoid or membrane		based on 27 m² of roofing, with the necessary margin
Roofing material (O)	bituminous tiles
Consumables	Nails, screws and screws.

Work on the construction of this gazebo occurs in the following order:

Illustration
	The first step is marking the territory at the site chosen for construction. To do this, pegs are installed along the perimeter of the future building, on which the rope is stretched and fixed. The corners of the marked area must be measured very accurately, they must be perfectly straight. To make sure that the markup is correct, it is necessary to measure the diagonals of the rectangle and, if necessary, make adjustments. The diagonals must be equal to each other. The presented illustration shows an example of calculating and marking a place for construction, however, with different sizes, but the principle does not change from this.
	Next, holes are drilled for installing the pipes of the columnar foundation. Their depth should be more than the level of soil freezing by 150 mm. The height of the pipes above the ground can be different, depending on the desire of the master to raise the gazebo to a certain level. If necessary, the excess of their height can be cut off with the help of a grinder. On average, for the base for the gazebo, the pillars go deep into the ground by 500 ÷ 700 mm. Having installed the pipes in the drilled "nests", they are set exactly vertically in level and the soil around them is strengthened with crushed stone and soil, which is well tamped. Then, the pipes are filled with cement-gravel mortar for ⅔ of their volume.
	The next step is to install rack bars in the foundation pipes. It is recommended to pre-treat the lower part of the beam with bituminous mastic. The bar is set according to the level (plumb). Inside the foundation pipe, it can be supported with fragments of rubble or wooden supports can be installed, securing them to stakes driven into the ground. Then the pipes are supplemented with concrete mortar to the top, and this structure is left until completely solidified.
	After the mortar has hardened, before fixing the lower trim beam, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing material around the vertically installed beams, for example, roofing material. Further, the beam prepared in size for the lower strapping is fixed in the lower part on the vertical posts with self-tapping screws 90 mm in size. To avoid splitting the timber, before screwing in the fasteners, holes are drilled for them 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. When fixing the strapping, you should carefully control the horizontal installation of the timber using the building level, since the correct location of other elements of the building will depend on this.
	After the strapping beam is fixed, intermediate beams are installed and fixed, which will divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor of the gazebo into four parts and give the necessary rigidity to its structure.
	The next step is to install logs on the strapping and intermediate timber. To increase the strength of the floor, the logs are fixed in such a way as shown in the diagram. Logs are installed in 400 mm increments, ideally horizontally, according to pre-made markings.
	Fixing the log is carried out on special metal supporting elements, which are screwed with self-tapping screws 50 mm long to the inside of the strapping beam and floor beams. Moreover, they must be fixed strictly at the same level, otherwise the floor will turn out to be uneven.
	Supporting element for the installation of a beam-crossbar. Such parts are available in different sizes in height and width.
	Further, flooring is made from floorboards on the logs. If the prepared base is reliable and even, then laying the boards will not be difficult at all. The boards are fastened to the logs with nails or galvanized self-tapping screws 60 millimeters long. The heads of fasteners should be flush with the main surface of the board or recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Since the building will be located on the street under the influence of moisture, the wood may well swell, therefore it is recommended to leave a gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm between the boards. Such slots will also contribute to the timely removal of water and moisture from the boards and their rapid ventilation.
	When the floors of the gazebo are ready, the upper trim of the structure is fixed on top of the racks. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws 90 mm long, on the outside of the timber. To check the horizontalness, a building level is used.
	Having a ready-made, well-mounted frame of the gazebo box, you can proceed to install the fence. The first step in the installation of this part of the building is the installation of horizontal bars, fixed between the racks. They are installed in two rows, one of which runs along the bottom edge of the racks, and the other rises to the level planned by the project. The crossbars are set according to the level and fixed on the racks with self-tapping screws. Additionally, they can be reinforced with metal corners, which are attached to the crossbars from below, and then screwed to the uprights.
	Further, balusters are mounted between the rungs. These can be ordinary sanded boards, as presented in this project, or round classic balusters can be carved from a bar, which, if desired, is given its own configuration. Flat balusters are fixed on the lower transverse beams with nails or self-tapping screws screwed from the inside of the gazebo from top to bottom. In the upper part of the balusters are fixed through the crossbars. If round balusters, machined from a bar, are chosen, then they are mainly mounted, both from above and from below, on the dowels to be glued. After completing their installation, railings are fixed to the upper rungs. They are first glued with wood glue, and then fixed with self-tapping screws, sinking their hats into the wood.
	Any roof for the gazebo can be chosen: - shed, for which it will be necessary to raise the front part of the building, fixing short racks of 200 ÷ 250 mm on the upper trim; - gable or, as presented in this project - four-slope hip. You need to start installing such a roof with the creation of a truss system consisting of diagonal and middle rafters and a ridge beam. The rafters can be prepared at the bottom, and then raised to the top harness. To simplify your task, you can temporarily fix the rafter legs and the ridge beam in the desired position until the final fastening by installing supports from the floor of the gazebo to the ridge.
	The fixed initial frame of the truss system begins to be strengthened from the hip sides - rafters (spiders) are installed and screwed on them at a distance of 600 mm from each other. Jocks on the hips begin to be fixed from the center of the triangle.
	The next step is to fix the rafters on large, trapezoidal slopes, starting from the middle of the ridge beam, and then moving to the diagonal rafters. The upper side of the rafters is fixed on the ridge beam, and the lower side - on the beam of the upper trim of the gazebo structure.
	If a light material is used to cover the roof, for example, bituminous or plastic wave slate or polycarbonate, then it is immediately attached to the crate, which is made of boards (for example, 100 × 25 mm), installed with the desired step on the rafters, perpendicular to them.
	In the event that the work will be carried out strictly according to the project being demonstrated, using bituminous tiles for covering, then a solid crate of plywood 15 mm thick, pre-cut with a circular saw, is first fixed to the rafters. The fixing of this material is carried out with self-tapping screws 30 mm long with a step between fasteners of 150 mm. A gap of 1 ÷ 1.5 mm must be left between the sheets for the thermal expansion of the material, in order to avoid its warpage.
	A waterproofing material is laid on top of the plywood - it can be roofing material or one of the types of modern membrane materials. Waterproofing sheets are mounted from the eaves in horizontal strips, overlapping each top sheet on the one below. The waterproofing is fixed with staples and a stapler. On top of the waterproofing, starting from the cornice, bituminous tiles are mounted. It should be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. This diagram shows the installation of bituminous shingles - it will also require the creation of a crate. Sheet shingles can be laid directly on plywood prepared for this operation.
	Upon completion of the installation of the roofing material and fixing the ridge element, a decorative strip is fixed along the eaves.

After the gazebo is ready, small details are adjusted, such as sealing holes and recesses with wood putty or a composition of epoxy glue mixed with fine sawdust. The putty should dry well, after which all irregularities and roughness should be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper.

In the next step, all wooden structural elements are covered with stain and yacht varnish or paint, which will additionally protect the wood from external influences and give the gazebo a finished aesthetic appearance.

Pergola construction

A pergola can be a great place to relax around the pool, in the garden or as an extension to the house. This type of light building is sure to add a "zest" to the overall design of the site.

classic pergola

To build a pergola, fewer materials will be required than for a traditional gazebo, but if desired, the list can be supplemented with roofing and slats for diagonal cladding, as well as other elements.

The diagrams below show dimensions in feet and inches. In the table of materials, they are already converted to millimeters.

The main structural elements of the pergola	Necessary materials	Dimensions of parts, mm	Quantity, pcs.
Column Foundation	Asbestos concrete pipes	Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500	4
	Cement, sand, gravel or crushed stone for filling pipes.		Depending on depth
Racks	bar	100×100×2400 or 150×150×2700	4
	Embedded anchors (if needed)		4
support beam	Board	50×150×3600	4
Cross beams	Board	50×150×3600	13
crossbeams	Board	50×150×3250	5
Fixing support beams	screws	M6×175
Fastening for cross beams	self-tapping screws	150
Crossbar fastening	self-tapping screws	75

Work on the construction of a classic pergola is carried out in the following order.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The construction of a pergola begins in the same way as any building - with the marking of the territory, after which holes are drilled in the ground for a columnar foundation. Hole diameter 250÷300 mm, depth 900÷1000 mm. At the bottom of the prepared pit, crushed stone is poured with a layer of 80 ÷ 100 mm thick and thoroughly compacted.
	Asbestos-concrete pipes are installed in the pits, leveled, and then soil mixed with crushed stone is compacted around them. After that, the solution is kneaded, which fills the inside of the columnar foundation supports.
	Pergola posts can be fixed to foundation piles in two ways. The first of them is their installation in poured concrete and fixation with spacers - until the solution has completely set.
	Another option for fixing the racks on the foundation are embedded anchor metal holders with a leg, which are embedded in the concrete that has not yet hardened.
	The holder embedded in the pole looks like this.
	Concrete poured into asbestos-cement pipes should set well, it needs to be given at least three to four days for this. This time can be used to decorate the space that will be covered by the pergola elements installed in the form of a roof.
	This area can be cleared of the upper fertile layer, covered with sand and cultivated with paving slabs. In addition to this option, there are other modern garden coverings that do not require time-consuming preparation of the base, but simply fit into the place chosen for them.
	After the concrete has hardened, the pergola racks are installed and leveled to the building level. The racks are fixed in the holders using M6 screws with wide washers.
	The support beams are given a classical shape in advance - it may differ somewhat in the shape of the sections. Further, they are fixed on racks in pairs.
	Having fastened together two racks, the support beams give the structure the necessary rigidity. Their installation is carried out according to the scheme using bolts or self-tapping screws. They are installed in such a way that they protrude beyond the perimeter indicated by the racks by 250 ÷ 400 mm - the size of such an overhang will depend on the preference of the master or the owner of the site.
	If you imagine this process schematically, it will look something like the one shown in this picture.
	Having fixed the support beams, they are perpendicularly blocked by transverse beams, of which 13 pieces are provided in this project, and they are installed in increments of 300 mm. However, it should be noted that there may be more or less of them, and how much the space under the pergola will be shaded depends on their number. Boards for beams should be perfectly even, as their curvature will immediately catch the eye.
	In order to make the structure strong and rigid with the help of cross beams, two grooves are cut in these elements on each side at ⅓ of the height of the beam, on which it is installed on the support beams, as shown in this figure. After they are installed, they are fixed from above to the support boards with self-tapping screws 150 mm long.
	To make the installation of transverse boards less complicated, you need to accurately measure all the distances and depth of the grooves. If the markup is carried out correctly, the installation will go smoothly. To make the grooves neat and even, cuts are made in the boards to a marked depth, and then the cut piece of wood is selected with a chisel and a hammer. The best option is to make one template beam, fit it exactly, and then cut out the required number of “clones” on it. It is immediately necessary to drill vertical holes for self-tapping screws, which should fall exactly in the center of the selected grooves.
	After the installation of the cross beams is completed, five crossbeams are installed perpendicular to them and parallel to the support boards. They are also fixed on measured and cut grooves - according to the same technology, which was mentioned a little higher.
	If there are 13 cross beams, then the same number of grooves should be cut. Moreover, the crossbars should be put on with grooves on the crossbars freely, so the grooves are made slightly larger than the thickness of the boards on which they are installed. After that, the assembly of the pergola can be considered complete.

As you can see, the assembly of such a pergola is quite simple. The main thing is to prepare high-quality material and be very careful about the manufacture of parts.

Miniature pergola gazebo

This is the most compact version of the pergola, which at the same time will serve as the basis for liana plants, will decorate the site and create a secluded place for privacy lovers.

To make such a mini-pergola gazebo, you will need the following materials:

The main elements of the design of the gazebo	Necessary materials	Dimensions of parts, mm	Quantity, pcs.
Pillar foundation (if needed)	Asbestos concrete pipes	Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500	4
	Cement, sand, gravel or crushed stone for filling pipes.		Depending on depth.
Racks (A)	wooden beam	50×100×1800	4
Seat frame (B)	bar	50×100×1625	2
		50×100×460	3
Bench back (C)	bar	50×100×1625	2
		25×100×275	13
Cross beams (D)	Board	50×200×1800	2
	bar	50×50×840	9
Seat (E)	Board	20×100×1625	6
Lattice cladding (F)	bar	50×50×1350	4
		50×100×410	4
Consumables	Nails, screws and screws.

In order not to repeat ourselves, it must be said right away that for this gazebo, as well as for previous buildings, a foundation is being laid. Since this version of the structure has a very small weight, it is most likely not necessary to make a deep foundation. If the site has a cemented or tiled platform, then this small pergola can be installed on it by inserting the racks into special stands that are fixed to the base. In addition, it is recommended to cement the lower part of the stand so as not to accidentally injure your leg on a sharp metal corner.

screwdriver

Further installation operations are carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The racks on which all other structural elements will be fixed must be prepared by making cuts in their upper part - they will be needed to install the cross beams.
	The next step, in order to ensure the rigidity of the structure, is to assemble the seat frame and attach it to the uprights. The fastening must be reliable, so it is advisable to use metal corners for it, which are installed on the underside of the frame frame. Installation height is indicated on the assembly diagram.
	Further, the back of the bench is assembled from the timber and boards, which will strengthen the rear pillars of the structure. It is recommended to assemble this element separately and fix the backrest on the rear pillars of the structure in finished form. Since there will also be a large load on the back, it may also be worth using metal fasteners that need to be installed from the back of the back, connecting it to the support posts.
	When the racks are securely fastened at the bottom with the seat and back frames, you can proceed to fastening them at the top. In this model, curved parts are made for the longitudinal beams - a 50 × 200 mm board is used for them. A curved beam is cut according to a pre-drawn pattern using an electric jigsaw. After that, the beams are cleaned and polished with sandpaper of different grain sizes. The finished parts are installed in the cuts, equipped in the upper part of the support posts, and then fixed in them with the help of self-tapping screws.
	Further, longitudinal cladding boards are screwed onto the frame frame of the seat in three places with self-tapping screws 30 mm long. They are distributed evenly on the frame bars, and between them it is necessary to leave gaps of 5 mm wide for good water drainage and ventilation of the wood.
	For the manufacture of side lattice panels, a beam of 50 × 50 mm is taken, from which a frame is made, on which a finished lattice ordered from professionals is fixed. The grate can also be made independently, for example, by spreading the beam with a circular saw into slats 5-7 mm thick. The grille is mounted on a frame made of timber between two wide glazing beads, which will ennoble the grille and make it neat by closing its edges.
	The next step is to mark the installation step on the curved crossbars, and then fix the perpendicular boards with cuts and self-tapping screws, which are installed on the edge. If desired, the roof can be covered with roofing material.
	To protect the wood from moisture and transform the appearance of the pergola, it is covered with paint or stain and varnish. The color is chosen depending on the general design of the landscape of the site.

After getting acquainted with the manufacturing technologies of gazebos of various designs, it is possible to choose the one suitable for your own site, objectively evaluating your capabilities in carpentry. After that, you can safely get to work - the main thing is not to rush and make all the parts and their connections as accurately as possible.

And at the end of the publication - an interesting video in which the master shares his secrets of the quick construction of a garden gazebo.

Video: a master class on the quick construction of a gazebo

Most owners of a private area dream of placing garden gazebos on it with their own hands. Drawings and design options show that the style of the planned structure can be completely different and completely depends on the preferences of the owner of a private house. We will provide several options by which you can build garden gazebos with your own hands. Photos are also provided for each of them, so that each reader can understand the final version of the entire description.

Do-it-yourself garden gazebo options

Frameless gazebo.

Frameless garden arbors involve the construction of brick walls on monolithic insulated slabs or on strip foundations. Building blocks for frameless gazebos are most often taken from aerated concrete, their height is often up to two meters. A maximum of a couple of walls may extend directly to the roof of the structure. The rest of the walls are formed with the help of columns, on which, in principle, the entire conceived building rests.

Depending on how the walls are laid, their external decoration is planned. If the brick is laid carefully, then most likely the finish will not be required at all. Such options for garden arbors look very organic in a spacious area and represent a kind of mystery.

If frameless garden arbors are built from a foam block, then their finish is the same as a house built from this material. That is, a metal mesh is applied, and plaster is applied to it. Already on a leveled wall, you can apply even a stone, even decorative plaster.

It is worth noting that frameless garden structures are often glazed if they are made of brick, foam blocks and stone. In this case, they will be as warm as possible in winter.

The roof for such buildings is made according to their shape. It may well be one-slope, two-slope and four-slope rectangular arbors. For gazebos with more complex shapes, you will have to cover the hipped roof.

Classic wooden gazebo (with a lattice wall).

Classic wooden garden gazebos are the most sought after as they are easy to make and easy to build. Also, such designs will be an ideal decoration for the garden, they will look organic with trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants.

The drawing of a garden gazebo is based on the measuring unit inch, which is equal to 2.54 cm. At the beginning of construction, it is necessary to carefully measure all materials so that they accurately have the correct parameters and the design is uniform. Then you need to carefully make the markup of the area chosen for the structure. To check the markup for correctness, it is necessary to pull the diagonal ropes from the corners, they must be equal at the square markup.

Then it is necessary to fix the points for plumb lines, the center of the structure, temporary structures. Next, you can proceed with the installation of the central block of the floor, strapping, floor planks, additional, main logs and headers, metal brackets and load-bearing and guide beams, taking into account the dimensions indicated in the photo.

When connecting the elements, you must use the level, and when the lower part is ready, you can proceed to the side and top.

We finish gratings, install cornices and connect the ends of the beam with the crown and cornices. It is desirable to impregnate the finished wooden building with special means that will protect it from decay and give it a refined shade. If the structure will be painted in the future, then first it must be coated with a special primer for wood based on oil.

Design of garden arbors made of metal and polycarbonate.

Designs designed for relaxing in the garden are popular due to their strength and high stability. In order to make such a gazebo with your own hands, you first need to draw up the correct drawing, such as this one.

Depending on their preferences, the owner must enter into it information about the dimensions of the roof and frame and the required amount of all materials (you can also use the numbers in this figure).

The initial stage of building a gazebo made of polycarbonate and metal involves laying the foundation. Since our planned structure is lightweight, laying the foundation will only require removing some of the top soil and backfilling it with crushed stone. From above, crushed stone must be poured with one layer of concrete.

After completing the previous stage, we directly proceed to the implementation of the frame. For him, it is desirable to opt for pipes with a rectangular cross section, which are inserted into the foundation and connected by transverse strips. You can connect the transverse and vertical components of the frame using bolts or welding. Roof accessories should also be in the form of metal pipes.

If the owner of the garden is well versed in welding, then images of arcs can be made from metal pipes, if not, you can always use the services of professional welders.

On the roof, joint to joint, polycarbonate is laid. It is attached to a metal frame with self-tapping screws. The seams formed between the metal and polycarbonate are treated with a sealant.

Wooden arbors with a capital wall.

Capital wall garden gazebo projects are quite an interesting option for every homeowner. They are quite resistant to all adverse environmental factors and have good strength. The process of building such a structure consists of several stages, one of which is shown in the figure.

To begin with, you should carefully clear the area of ​​debris and mark the site on which the building will be located. To do this, it is necessary to dig a hole of a small depth of the desired size and protect it with any boards (that is, make a formwork). Then the marked area is filled with cement.

When the cement has hardened, a lower harness is constructed from the timber, to which the racks are attached. The racks are interconnected by horizontal wooden components (beams). Then the main walls and the roof are erected.

Design of a garden gazebo with a metal roof.

A metal gazebo is ideal for any garden. It will decorate it perfectly, and will also serve its owners for quite a long time. you can make a gazebo according to the presented drawing, based on description below.

During the construction of the above-described premises, materials such as: hollow pipes with a square or rectangular section of at least 2-4 cm, mounting brackets, metal rods, material for roof and wall cladding will be useful. You will also need such tools as a welding machine, a screwdriver, a building level, a puncher and a grinder. You will also need sand, cement, electrodes, metal drills, a brace, self-tapping screws. To finish metal elements, a special paint is required.

We choose a suitable area for the gazebo, from which a beautiful view of something will open. Now you need to decide on the size of the doorway. Usually a height of about two meters and a width of about a meter are chosen. Let's start laying the foundation.

If the owner of the dacha has paving slabs left somewhere, then the foundation can be laid out of it on a sand base. Well, if not, then cement comes to the rescue. For a cement foundation, it is necessary to make a formwork and wait until it hardens (3-5 days).

Now we make marks with the help of a brace, on which the supporting pillars will be located. After that, we directly install the latter and connect them with transverse metal parts. Then we proceed to the manufacture of the roof. It is made of sheet metal (corrugated board or metal tile).

So, you can see that there are many different design options for gazebos. It is necessary to select them for yourself, based on the taste and estimated cost of the project.

Today, few people are limited to a summer cottage just a house and a garden. Such a cozy building for recreation, like a gazebo, adorns every second courtyard. This article is for those who are ready to independently build a country house on their site.

Location selection

Before choosing a place to build a gazebo, you need to consider the purposes for which it will be used. For many, in the summer, the gazebo serves as a dining room or summer kitchen, then it makes sense to make it closer to home. If it is needed solely for relaxation and solitude, then it is better to put it on the outskirts of the site.

But wherever such a country house is located, it must match the style and design of all buildings on the site and not stand out from the overall picture. Therefore, it is necessary to consider not only the issue of location, but also the detailed configuration.

An excellent place for any gazebo will be the bank of a river or other body of water, but not every summer cottage has such delights.

If you put a gazebo in the yard in the shade of tall trees, it will certainly become an ideal place for reflection and relaxation.

If the area in front of a private house is very small, then you can place it in the very center, having previously laid a path, for example, from the gate. So that the open gazebo is not an object of observation for passers-by, you can plant dense tall shrubs around it.

During construction, it is worth remembering that not only the view of the gazebo from the side is very important, but also the view from it, because nothing should interfere with a comfortable stay. So, for example, a view of the neighbor's fence or even on the wall of the house will not create the proper atmosphere. But in any case, the situation can be corrected with the help of flowers and the right furniture.

Before installing the gazebo, it is imperative to find out the depth of groundwater in the area and the degree of freezing of the soil in winter. Information about the prevailing wind direction will also be useful, especially if the gazebo provides a place to install a barbecue. If necessary, for this information, you can contact the surveyors.

The place for installation should be relatively flat. If there are stumps on the site, then it is better to uproot them, because overgrown roots can ruin the foundation.

To install a gazebo with a stove / barbecue, it is worth considering all fire safety standards.

Varieties and designs

All country arbors can be divided according to the criteria of the form and material from which they are made.

According to the type of material used, 5 types of arbors are distinguished.

Wooden

The most common option for self-production. Such structures do not require a solid foundation and are quite easy to install, environmentally friendly and multifunctional. If desired, even a large wooden gazebo can be made collapsible and moved if necessary.

brick

This is a much stronger and more durable building when compared with a wooden one. But for its construction, a strong foundation is simply necessary. A brick gazebo can serve as a summer kitchen, as well as a place for receiving guests and organizing a barbecue. If the gazebo provides rest with children, you can hang a swing or a hammock inside.

Polycarbonate

The main advantage of this material can be called cheapness. But pleases the presence of mobility, and resistance to temperature extremes. Outside, such gazebos are often covered with paint.

metal

Suitable for any foundation, but making it yourself is quite difficult.

forged

An option close to metal, but more beautiful and, accordingly, more expensive. In addition, a wrought-iron gazebo is only suitable for use in the summer. They are also not made glazed. Ideal for summer residents who care more about appearance than functionality.

Distinguish arbors and in form.

Rectangular (square)

A versatile solution that can be made from any material. It will fit into every area, regardless of whether it is placed in the middle or around the perimeter.

multifaceted

Often this is a hexagonal or octagonal arbor, but theoretically you can improvise with the shape. It also requires a foundation and is difficult to design on your own, but it looks much more original than a standard-shaped gazebo.

A multifaceted gazebo is often decorated with a domed roof.

Arbor-canopy

It looks like a kind of tent, which can be easily disassembled if necessary. Fits well in a small area, because it does not take up much space. The design of the canopy itself is very simple, but again, a foundation is required for installation. The roof is usually made of tarpaulin or a special canvas.

Round

This form will appeal to lovers of romance. A round table, benches or a flower arrangement around the perimeter will fit perfectly into the gazebo. Such an arbor is comparable in versatility to a square one and will fit any landscape.

corner

This form is very practical and allows you to install a gazebo even in a small area.

Also, all gazebos according to the type of construction are divided into open and closed. Everything is clear here: in the first there are no walls (or some of them), and the second are designed like a real country house: with a roof and walls.

Materials and accessories

Foundation materials

It can be brick, stone or concrete.

Filler required for concrete mortar which can be gravel, crushed stone or sand. The required proportions are often indicated on the cement packaging and should not raise questions.

For the construction of a brick foundation for a wooden gazebo, many use red brick. It must be of high quality fired and resistant to moisture.

Roofing felt or roofing material will do a good job of waterproofing the foundation.

Floor materials

For a building without a foundation, the floor can be well-packed soil, a lawn, or even a neatly laid slab. True, this can cause inconvenience during rain, for example. Therefore, more often the floor is made of boards or laid out with tiles (artificial stone).

Flooring materials should be chosen so that they are combined with the overall design of the gazebo.

If the choice is made in favor of tiles, then ceramic or matte will be optimal. This will reduce slip and make cleaning easier. Together with the tile, you need to purchase a special mastic for sealing the seams.

concrete mortar

Concrete is formed by hardening a concrete mortar that has been pre-mixed and compacted. A concrete mortar is a cement mixture mixed with water. You can make this mixture yourself or buy ready-made. Today, there is a huge variety of concrete mixtures on the market: they are divided by density, frost resistance, strength and other parameters.

When buying and calculating the amount of concrete mix, it is worth remembering that after mixing the solution, it will significantly decrease in volume.

When producing a foundation on screw piles, you should take care of buying high-quality piles, having previously studied the brand of goods.

Fasteners

These include nails, bolts, screws, staples, dowels, nuts, screws and more. Of course, not a single stage of construction can do without the use of nails, so they need to be purchased in sufficient quantities. The most common nails are construction. There are also galvanized, which are distinguished by a protective coating against corrosion. For fixing roofing there are special roofing nails: their hat is wider than that of ordinary ones.

The fastening of volumetric parts of the building is usually done using screws.

Means for the protection and processing of wood

Wood must be treated regularly with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. This should be done in a special suit, protecting the eyes with goggles, and the respiratory organs with a respirator.

The cinder block does not require special care products.

Sometimes, before finishing work, a rounded log needs to be bleached. To do this, you first need to deresin it with special solutions that dissolve it. So the amount of resin on the logs should be paid attention at the very beginning of construction.

If wood parts need to be glued together, there are a wide range of adhesives to choose from: synthetic, casein, epoxy or gluten.

At the stage of finishing the gazebo from the log house, paints and varnishes are needed. They are of two types: opaque and transparent. The first includes all kinds of paints and enamels. To the second - various varnishes. Before applying paints and varnishes, the surface must be puttied.

If the arbor frame system is made of plastic or PVC pipes, extensions for 2 pieces 180 degrees, angles and tees to connect three pipes can be useful. The upper trim in such structures is a polypropylene perimeter.

For street gazebos in a natural style, the design of the roof with reeds is more suitable, for example, without the use of corrugated board. It also needs to be properly prepared before laying: dry, check for the presence of insects and beetles, tie it with high quality.

If the roof is covered with corrugated board, you need to choose the right one.

It differs in four ways:

• sheet thickness;
• sheet width;
• wave height;
• wave width.

The value of these figures is directly proportional to the quality of the material.

Projects

Any construction work begins with drawing up drawings. You can find a suitable ready-made project or create your own, taking into account all the features of a particular site and your preferences. If a sufficiently skillful master starts construction, then he can use a freehand drawing, that is, a simple diagram. In other cases, it is necessary to take into account all dimensions and proportions in the sketch on paper. Naturally, at the design stage, you need to decide on the location of the gazebo.

According to the type of construction, open gazebos (beams with a roof), half-open (the presence of one or two walls) and closed (all walls with windows are present) can be distinguished.

When choosing the shape and dimensions of the gazebo, you need to take into account the size of the adjacent territory, the number of people who will be relaxing inside, the size of the furniture and the proposed placement of the barbecue / oven.

If the summer cottage is quite large, a small gazebo can get lost on it. In this case, it is better to build a whole set of a gazebo, a pool, a veranda with panoramic windows - in a word, everything that your imagination can do.

Of course, there are also ready-made kits for self-assembly of such country houses, but this reduces creativity to zero.

When calculating the size of the future gazebo, you need to consider that for each person you need about 2 square meters. So, in a gazebo measuring 6x4 m, up to 10 people can comfortably accommodate. If the gazebo is built exclusively for the recreation of a small family, then you can get by with the standard sizes of such buildings - 4x4 or 3x3 square meters.

The type of gazebo directly depends on whether it will be used in the winter. If so, you need a warm glazed house with all amenities. An all-weather polycarbonate gazebo with sliding windows can also adjoin a blank wall on the back of the house.

How to do

It is not difficult to build a beautiful gazebo at the lowest cost with your own hands if you follow the recommendations of experienced builders and follow all the stages of work step by step. A simple summer gazebo will work for any summer resident and will allow you not to spend extra money on making it. It is worth starting with a review of the standard work plan.

The base of the gazebo

Even a lightweight gazebo with the simplest design needs a fulcrum and must be fixed in the ground.

Let us consider in more detail the stages of building the foundation.

• On the selected site, markings are made along the perimeter of the future building. This is usually a small area, so you can get by with standard measuring instruments.

• The best way to level the surface under the foundation is to dig the top layer of sod to a depth of 200 mm.
• Further, in the right places, you should dig holes with a depth of at least 50 cm and fill their bottom with gravel, which must be compacted.
• Log or concrete supports are placed in the pits, which are later leveled and concreted.
• After the concrete has completely dried, it is necessary to cover the supports with waterproofing and lay the bars on top, which can be connected using metal pins.

floor laying

The laying of wooden flooring begins with the fastening of the bars to the bottom trim. Concrete blocks or a cranial block should be placed under them to avoid sagging. A floorboard is mounted on top of the bars.

If it is decided to cover the floor with tiles or tiles, it is necessary to level the floor surface with a cement screed and cladding.

Frame erection

When the foundation is completely dry, you can start building the frame.

• Vertical posts are placed in the corners, which can be fixed with protruding metal pins.
• The supports should be carefully aligned vertically and fixed with braces.

• Further, the upper parts of the racks are interconnected by strapping. For greater stability, you can connect opposite corners with boards crosswise.
• Rafters are attached to the side trim at a distance of about 50-60 cm from each other. The attachment point can be made by cutting in both parts and fastening with nails and metal plates.
• The protrusion of the rafters beyond the bounds of the strapping should not exceed 40 cm. But it should not be made too small either, because then the protection against precipitation will deteriorate.

Finishing

When the foundation and frame are ready, we can say that the main stages of work are behind. Finishing allows for more freedom and creativity, so installation can hardly be called laborious.

The process of finishing the gazebo:

• vertical racks should be installed between the supports, to which the filling is attached;
• if the lining is made of lining, then fix it with carnations with small hats;
• The grille is mounted with self-tapping screws from the inside.

The installation process of the roof depends on the material chosen:

• a solid crate is needed for tiles or wooden plates, that is, for piece roofing material (the optimum is a grating made of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm);
• under the metal tile, ondulin and polycarbonate, a sparse crate of wooden beams will be required;
• the roof is fixed on the crate according to the manufacturer's instructions, additional protection (drainage system) is mounted on request.

The final stage of the work will be the arrangement of furniture, the elimination of minor flaws, the cleaning of construction debris, and so on.

It is not so difficult to carry out all the above points in stages by yourself, especially if you have at least some experience in construction. It is quite cheap compared to projects that are carried out by professional craftsmen. Moreover, a homemade gazebo is another reason to be proud of yourself. If, over time, the usual building seems not enough, you can complete the top floor (near closed gazebos) or design a full-fledged recreation area that can be attached to the house.

Foundation

In order for the gazebo to stand for many years, you need to seriously approach the choice of foundation - this is the most important part for any building.

The most common mistake novice builders make is purchasing low-quality building materials in an attempt to save money. There is also an opinion that if the gazebo is made of wood, then it is light enough and does not need a strong foundation - this is a delusion.

Here are some tips for building a foundation.

• First of all, you need to clear the area on which the gazebo will be built in the future. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed to avoid exposure to excessive moisture on the materials.

• Then you need to draw the outline of the future building and select the type of foundation: columnar, tape or pile. More often summer residents make a choice in favor of the first.
• Particular attention should be paid to the degree of freezing of the soil. For a columnar foundation, this is especially important, since it lies deeper. In sandy soil, the foundation should be 40-60 cm deep, for mobile soil - about 80-100 cm.
• Do not forget about waterproofing: without it, no foundation will be strong.
• Additional materials for the foundation can be metal pipes filled with concrete, concrete blocks, wooden beams, and so on.

frame

The frame can be made of timber, metal or natural stone. In any case, it must be stable and withstand not only the weight of the roof, but also the precipitation that may accumulate on it.

The most popular materials are wood and metal. Less commonly used plastic and brick.

Metal advantages:

• high strength;
• ease of installation on any foundation;
• mobility (if necessary, such a frame can be disassembled into beams and moved);
• fire resistance (in such a gazebo you can install a barbecue and not be afraid of fires).

The disadvantage of a metal frame is the likelihood of rust. But with proper care, this can be easily prevented.

Wood is used more often than metal. One of its main advantages is environmental friendliness.

It should also be remembered that not only moisture can harm a wooden structure, but also numerous insects.

Floor

The material for flooring should be chosen based on the type of gazebo: not all coatings that are used in closed gazebos will withstand the tests that coatings for open structures are subjected to.

Having assessed your financial capabilities, you can proceed to the choice of material, because the design of the floor can result in a rather large amount or, on the contrary, be performed independently from improvised materials.

It is also important to consider the design and surroundings of the building.

Wood

In a wooden country house, a wooden floor will look more advantageous than a tile or concrete floor.

Often, wooden boards are used to decorate the floor in gazebos: it is beautiful, eco-friendly and cheap. In addition, its installation does not require any special skills, and even a novice builder can handle it.

Installation of a wooden floor begins with laying and fixing the timber. To ensure additional reliability, several types of fasteners can be used at once.

The flooring is made with a not very thick board, leaving gaps for ventilation. They should not be made too large in order to avoid deflection of the boards.

After finishing work on laying a wooden floor, it must be covered with an antiseptic, and then with paint or varnish.

The wooden floor is ideal for closed gazebos, as they are protected from moisture.

In addition to wood, there are several coatings from which you can choose the right one for a particular gazebo.

• decking- material for any flat surface without a concrete base. Its huge plus is that after the end of the season it can simply be disassembled, and in the spring it can be re-layed.
• Terrace board Suitable for those who value durability. Such a coating will last more than a dozen years. With it, you can create a perfectly flat floor.
• material such as deck board, very convenient in that it is not subject to rotting and the formation of fungus. And these indicators are very important for a gazebo of any type.

The cost of these boards is much higher than usual, but the quality corresponds to the price.

But the wooden floor, along with many advantages, has some not very pleasant features. These include the need for careful and regular maintenance of the coating: treatment with antiseptics (1-2 times a year) and control over the appearance of fungus.

Concrete

Suitable for brick buildings, especially after the completion of the construction of brick gazebos, there is already a rough concrete floor (the top layer of the foundation). Many leave it in this form, but it will look more aesthetically pleasing if it is poured a second time with cement mortar.

Porcelain stoneware

This material is pressed clay that has been fired at a very high temperature. It can be compared with tiles, but porcelain stoneware is more durable. Often used for finishing a large area. It belongs to the simplest solutions, since it is not difficult to equip it.

These tiles are simply laid on top of a concrete floor. The main advantages of porcelain stoneware are durability and wear resistance. The only drawback is that the shape and colors are presented in a small assortment. And when cutting, you can completely spoil the material, because it is difficult to process.

Paving slabs can also serve as a floor covering. You will have to tinker with styling, but it is easy to wash. Before laying such tiles, you need to carefully prepare the surface. To do this, it is necessary to successively pour 3-4 layers of sand, then a layer of gravel, then another layer of sand. Only then can tiles be laid on the surface.

Immediately before laying, the soil should be wetted in the place where the tiles are laid. Keep in mind that paving slabs can be very slippery in winter. Also, with not quite accurate laying, the tile deforms over time and lies unevenly, which can increase the risk of injury in winter.

Roof

The gazebo can have a roof of absolutely any shape. The main requirement is that it should not be too heavy. If there is a desire to make a massive roof, then at the design stage it is worth considering a suitable foundation.

The shape of the roof should go well with the style and material of the gazebo., as well as with the weather features of the area. For example, it is illogical to build sloping structures in snowy areas: snow will collect on the roof, which can lead to a complete collapse of the building. Also, do not build roofs with a large slope in places with strong winds.

But, in addition to functionality, it is also worth considering the aesthetic features of one form or another of the roof.

Shed

The simplest form for self-manufacturing design. Often shed roofs are built for structures of four walls. Appropriate shapes: rectangular, square, diamond-shaped or trapezoidal.

gable

Ideal for rectangular buildings. The rafter system (slanted or hanging) depends on the project and the material of the roof.

Four slope

It is this form that is used to cover most summer arbors. There are two types: in the form of four triangles connected at the vertices, and in the form of two trapezoids and two triangles (hip).

If the soul does not lie with the most common forms, you can show your imagination and make a roof with a complex geometric shape. For example, a Chinese-style multi-tiered roof will look very colorful and unusual.

There are also hipped roofs. They have the same principle as the four-slope, but it looks much more original and is perfect for round and polygonal buildings.

Particularly inventive summer residents erect gazebos with domed, spherical, tower, combined roofs.

The reed roof will be an excellent design solution. Since ancient times, reeds have been used as roofing. And it is no coincidence: the material has a water-repellent and heat-insulating property.

Such a roof, when properly laid, will save you from the hot sun and heavy rain.

Wiring

The minimum complete set of a country arbor provides the conducted light and one or several sockets.

The main thing to focus on is the type of wires used. It can be round or flat cable. The second one is often better and more durable, but it has some nuances in installation and a rather big price. These nuances are the poor flexibility of flat wires. Accordingly, placing them in the corners, on the folds, the outer layer of the wire must be carefully cut. But still, most summer residents make a choice in favor of flat wires.

You should buy a cable with a margin of at least a meter, because design errors are almost inevitable. This will save time and avoid connecting different cables together, which can be unsafe.

When installing wiring yourself, you do not need to neglect the use of an asbestos sheet. It is laid between the wire and the wall, which will serve as protection (though not one hundred percent) in the event of a sudden fire in the electrical wiring.

The cheapest and easiest way to conduct electricity is open. This means that the wires will not be hidden in the walls. With a quality work done, this nuance will not spoil the appearance of the building.

First you need to make a drawing. It will detail where and how the wiring will run. Next, with a pencil, you need to make markings on the walls along which the wires will be attached.

After that, strips of asbestos are attached to the walls of the gazebo, and the cable is already laid on them. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the fasteners do not strongly pinch the wire, but also do not allow it to hang out.

Many self-taught masters choose a very unsafe method of fastening: they simply drive nails into the wiring itself, attaching it in this way to the walls of the gazebo. In no case should you do this, because in this case the likelihood of a fire or a short circuit increases many times over.

After attaching the wires, the installation of sockets, switches and other elements follows. The reverse end of the wire must be connected to a separate machine and connected to the network.

Hidden wiring will require large material costs and more installation time, and the appearance will not change much. Therefore, all novice masters prefer an open type of wiring.

If the skills to work with electricity are completely absent, it would be wise to turn to professional electricians.

Finishing inside and outside

The assembled country house is only half the battle. When the main stages of construction have been completed, it is worth thinking about interior and exterior decoration. Its main part is the lining of the ceiling, walls and floor of the gazebo. There are many options for cladding.

Polycarbonate

This material has conquered the domestic market relatively recently, but still remains very popular with craftsmen due to its undeniable advantages.

• Low thermal conductivity. This means that the walls will be able to retain heat inside the gazebo in winter and coolness in summer.
• Quality soundproofing. Extraneous external noise will not be a problem for a closed gazebo if it is sheathed with polycarbonate.
• UV protection. A special film on this material protects well from the heat of the sun. When laying, you need to pay attention to the fact that the film is outside, otherwise it simply will not perform its function.

• Waterproof. In a gazebo sheathed with polycarbonate, you can even be in a thunderstorm or heavy rain: it definitely will not get wet.
• Wear resistance. Even without special care, the material will last at least ten years.
• Flexibility. Due to plasticity, polycarbonate is convenient for finishing round arbors.
• Affordable price. Any summer resident can afford this material.
• Ease of installation. You can handle the sheathing yourself without the involvement of builders., And this is an additional savings.
• Large palette of colors. The ability to find the right material color will help save on paint.

Polycarbonate parts are most conveniently mounted on a metal frame that can be pre-welded or assembled with bolts.

Polycarbonate cannot be called ideal for finishing a country house because of its shortcomings.

• chemical origin. For lovers of environmentally friendly materials, it is not suitable.
• The polycarbonate roof in the gazebo during the rain will respond to the impact of the drops with a very loud sound, which can disrupt the rest.

clapboard

Wooden lining is a good alternative to wood trim, while it costs much less. Often made of oak, pine, linden or aspen.

The advantages of lining:

• high thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• ecological purity and natural origin of the material;
• beautiful and versatile appearance that will fit into any interior.

For the outer skin, conifers will be optimal: spruce and pine. They contain a lot of resin, which creates additional protection against moisture.

Some features of the process of self-installation of lining:

• before starting installation, it is necessary to treat the lining with an antiseptic to protect it from rotting and the appearance of fungus;
• often at the beginning of repair work, a lattice of wooden slats is installed on the gazebo at a distance of 50 cm from each other, a lining is attached across these slats;
• you need to start laying from the corner of the gazebo (this should be done especially carefully, because the final result depends on the correct fastening of the first boards);
• screws or nails are used to fix the boards;
• during the laying process, from time to time it is necessary to check the evenness of the panels using the building level;
• the work is completed by coating the lining with varnish.

Siding

Siding is called a kind of plastic lining.

Advantages:

• moisture resistance;
• It does not require special care;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• large color range;
• long service life;
• suitable for both interior and exterior decoration;
• fire safety.

Laying siding is similar to laying lining. Therefore, having such a skill, it is already possible to choose a material based on financial capabilities and color schemes.

Reinforcing mesh

If the issue of inexpensive seasonal design of the gazebo is relevant, then the reinforcing mesh will cope well with this. Its appearance cannot be called attractive, but it can become the basis for growing grapes, which later independently forms the natural design of the walls of the gazebo.

First of all, you need to purchase a mesh with section sizes of approximately 10 by 10 cm, and the thickness of the rods should be 7-8 mm. The next step is to cut the grid into pieces of the required size. It is better to bend all sharp edges to avoid cuts.

The mesh is attached to a wooden wall with nails, and welded to a metal wall.

Rail

This material can only be used for buildings made of wood. In terms of functionality, it is close to the reinforcing mesh, but it looks a little prettier.

When sheathing a gazebo with rails, you need to consider several important rules:

• you need to choose parts no more than 5 mm in thickness and about 2-4 cm in width;
• on the wall of the gazebo, it is necessary to make a clear markup at the same intervals, depending on how it is decided to make the cells in size;
• installation is best to start from the upper left corner of the gazebo, attaching the slats diagonally according to the markings;
• laying the slats in this way, you need to reach the opposite corner of the building, after which you can proceed to the second layer, which is located perpendicular to the first.

Sheathing winter gazebos

If the gazebo is being built for year-round use, you should take care of its high-quality insulation. Here the standard exterior finish will not be enough - additional insulation is needed.

It could be:

• polystyrene is an inexpensive material with a good ability to repel moisture;
• mineral wool - a natural moisture-resistant material that is good for its low thermal conductivity;
• felt is a more expensive material that has excellent thermal insulation.

For decoration inside the winter gazebo, a wooden lining is best suited.

How to decorate: design options

Now it has become fashionable to create a gazebo arrangement not just at random, but according to some particular style. Fortunately, people have been building gazebos for more than a year, and there are a great many original examples that can be taken as the basis for your construction.

A great idea would be to place a small oasis in oriental style in a large gazebo. It can be a fountain with fish or just an aquarium.

Draped mattresses are the perfect solution for sheltering seats and benches in the area near the gazebo.

A variant without textiles is also possible: carved elements or forged lattices as one of the walls of an open-type building.

Summer residents with artistic abilities often decorate their gazebo with openwork wood carvings, unusual designs from tree roots and knots, straw paintings, plaster or wood statues.

For stone gazebos, steps lined with decorative stone will be an excellent solution.

For a stylish design of a shaded corner, it is enough to plant climbing plants around the perimeter of the building. It can be a vine or a grape. These plants grow quite quickly, framing the hedge and enlivening the entire ensemble. Not only the walls and roof of the gazebo can become alive, but also benches, if plants are also planted near their backs.

When developing a design, you need to remember not only the appearance of the gazebo, but also its functionality. You should decide in advance where to equip shelves for storing dishes or, for example, place special wicker boxes for blankets and pillows.

For those who like to retire for reflection in a garden house and mentally merge with nature, a Japanese-style gazebo is ideal. Its main principles are the naturalness of materials in manufacturing and aesthetic minimalism in design. The Japanese style does not tolerate frills and pretentiousness, but at the same time, any building looks original and interesting in itself. Stone blocks, wooden beams, slats are suitable for its construction.

Color is of great importance in the Japanese style. No bright solutions are allowed here, otherwise they will simply “block” the whole idea with themselves. Optimum shades - beige tones, pastels. The contrast of black and white is also appropriate. If the gazebo is made of wood, it would be logical not to puzzle over the color scheme, but to leave it as it is, simply by varnishing the surface.

Many fans have a passion for oriental culture, but they do not understand how the Chinese style in design differs from the Japanese. And there are quite a lot of such differences, so these two styles cannot be put on a par.

The main feature of the Chinese gazebo is the bizarre shape of the roof with raised corners and unusual color and decorative solutions. The Chinese style is characterized by an abundance of gold and red, which is simply unacceptable in the Japanese style.

There is also no talk of minimalism here either: the Chinese gazebo should shine with wealth and an abundance of decorations. To decorate the gazebo from the inside, you can choose a Chinese-style sofa with many pillows decorated with different fabrics. Inside such a building, you can light aroma lamps or incense sticks to create a special atmosphere.

There are a lot of styles and design solutions, they can even be correctly combined if you have taste. Arbors in the classical Russian style, made of timber, with minimal finishes and an abundance of natural materials, are becoming less and less common, because every summer resident wants his site to be original and unique.

How to build a gazebo with your own hands, see the following video.

“A good gazebo, but rarely poured!” And if there is also no gazebo in the yard, then the guests will be completely dissatisfied with the event. The first problem can be easily solved by making a small investment in a few boxes of "combustible material", but with a gazebo it's not so simple. Here you have to be moderately rich or hardworking enough.

Many construction companies and individuals offer to build gazebos at a price from 60,000 rubles for a simple wooden structure 3 by 3 meters. Beautiful and exclusive gazebos are already from 450,000 to 3-3.5 million rubles, an important role in pricing is played by area and materials (a log house and metal are always more expensive). But not everyone can pay such an amount for some small architectural form in their yard.

It is far from a secret that the materials for building a gazebo cost a penny (compared to its market value) and up to 85% of the money is taken for the work itself. Also consider the cost of foundation and land work. Now we will consider a detailed guide for building a gazebo with our own hands and with its help we will make a high-quality wooden product that will not be inferior to the “factory” options in any way!

Choosing a place to build a gazebo

The gazebo is built to solve many problems. It must simultaneously receive a large noisy company and serve as a place for a romantic dinner, so the owner himself must choose its location on his site. In most cases, this is the most secluded place that is not visible from all sides and where there are no drafts. It is also necessary to take into account the following points:

1. The construction of wooden arbors should be carried out away from septic tanks, sewer channels and septic tanks in a private area. Nothing should interfere with your rest, especially unpleasant odors.
2. It is necessary to take into account not only the upcoming stages of the construction of the gazebo, but also what will happen next. A brazier or tandoor can become a problem in the future if the building is next to the house. It is better to retreat at least 3 meters from all buildings.
3. You will certainly want to take a look at the pond or forest after a hearty dinner. It is better to place it in the most picturesque corner of the yard.
4. Pay attention to drainage. Recesses in the yard should be excluded - there is a high probability of undermining the foundation.
5. A sheltered place from the wind. Sit quietly - you will continue.

We figured out the basics of choosing a location, now let's move on to the phased construction of a gazebo and consider how to make an excellent design from inexpensive materials without throwing a lot of money down the drain.

Do-it-yourself garden gazebo foundation

Is it necessary to make a foundation? No, you can do without it, if you are not worried about skewed structures and periodic spring restorations of arbors. Without a foundation, the supports will sag under the weight of the roof and the entire structure, they can be washed away by spring waters or simply go to the side after the soil freezes / thaws in the spring. In any case, it must be done - so right. Consider several options for how to install the foundation without extra costs.

. Making it is easy enough. We take a drill with a diameter of 50-60 centimeters (it’s easier to borrow from a neighbor) and start making a wooden gazebo with our own hands. We make markings (for example, 4 by 4 meters), drill 4 holes 1 meter deep, pour concrete. You can use cement M300, the proportion with sand and gravel - as for foundations. After 15-20 days, you can safely build the ground part of the structure.

Brickwork . A very simple method that suits everyone who knows how to wield a shovel and trowel. The essence of this method is as follows: dig a hole 60x60x60 cm, then pour 1-2 buckets of concrete on the bottom, lay 2 silicate bricks along and 1 side by side across. Lay all subsequent rows of bricks in a checkerboard pattern until the “column” is about 20 centimeters above ground level. So lay out 4 columns (or 6 pieces, if you are planning to make a hexagonal wooden arbor with your own hands), after 15-20 days you can proceed with further construction.

Buried block . We take a shovel and go to bury the treasure in the yard. An ordinary concrete block 50-90 centimeters long will do. It is necessary to dig an appropriate hole, pour 10 cm of rubble (if you manage to ram it, it’s generally excellent), 5 cm of sand and lower the block. Repeat this for each column.

All of the above methods are suitable if you are making a simple gazebo with your own hands (up to 30-40 square meters). Heavier structures (including those with multi-level roofs) are installed only on strip and deep column foundations, since the mass of the structure can deform brickwork, blocks, or poorly made concrete. In some cases (for example, two-story gazebos), even drainage systems will be required.

According to all SNiP and recommendations, the foundation must stand for at least 24 days, but the actual period of its hardening is much less, since it will not be affected by heavy loads until the roof is built and all furniture is installed. You can start "light" work as early as 5-10 days after pouring it - nothing will happen to it. Now is the time to consider the features of mounting a gazebo with your own hands, drawings and dimensions of the structure, materials.

Making a wooden frame

Let's start with the racks. Actually, you can't start anywhere else. We will use a wooden beam 30 by 30 centimeters, since it looks much better (massive details are always in fashion) and it will be easier to attach a body kit to it. The minimum dimensions of the beam are 10 by 12 cm. Now you have 4 supports that need to be fixed on concrete posts, and this can be done in several ways.

When implementing the construction of wooden gazebos with your own hands, you should use the level as often as possible, especially in the case of concreting supports, because it will be impossible to fix it. It should form a right angle with the concrete base and be perfectly level with respect to the plumb line.

Now you can move on to the lower strapping of the supports and laying the lags. It is necessary to make the most stable surface that can easily withstand the weight of the flooring and the large number of people who will be on it. Consider the process of building a gazebo floor for a summer residence with your own hands step by step.

STEP 1: strapping. We use a beam 10 by 15 cm (this is with a margin), which must be laid between concrete columns and screwed to the supports below. It should go strictly horizontally, measure with a level. When the angle deviates, something must be placed on the support, which is lower in level.

STEP 2: we make a central jumper-reinforcement. We fasten a bar 5x10 cm exactly in the middle of the two sides of the harness of the gazebo. It will prevent subsidence of boards or any other flooring in the gazebo. If the structure has sides greater than 3 meters, the number of jumpers must be increased. Approximately 1 gain per 120-150 centimeters.

STEP 3: we stuff the boards on top. You can use boards 250 wide and 3-4 cm thick - the best option for solid loads. The length can be chosen as full (through the entire gazebo and fasteners to the reinforcements), and partial (only between the reinforcements). It is better to use short boards, they will last much longer and will be cheaper to replace if damaged. You can use both nails and screws, it doesn't matter.

STEP 4: open with anti-corrosion protection. An ordinary inexpensive impregnation will do. A good varnish can be processed after all work is completed, its consumption will be much less after the initial impregnation of the tree, which you will do now.

When fixing floor lags and all reinforcements, it is better to use metal corners with perforated sides. You can find them in every hardware store. It is better to choose the height of the clamp according to the height of the wooden beam in order to fix it as best as possible. It would be appropriate to have a powerful screwdriver, since you will have to screw in a lot of large screws, you can do this with a screwdriver, but it is quite difficult.

Additional support posts with a gazebo length of up to 4 meters can not be used, but if the structure is larger, then it is necessary to strengthen the upper harness. In the middle of the wooden beam of the lower trim, you need to fix a metal rack (a 30-45 mm square will do) and level it, it will “support” the upper wooden trim, which we will install in the next section of the article.

Do-it-yourself gazebo roof construction - step by step instructions

Now let's move on to a more complex process - the construction of the roof. There are a lot of options on how to make it, up to the construction of multi-level Chinese structures with curved corners. But our main goal is a do-it-yourself gazebo from improvised materials that can be found in any market or in the warehouse of a thrifty owner, so we will make a simple and reliable design.

STEP 1: top harness. Everything is exactly the same as below, only now we use a beam of 10x10 centimeters. The load on it will be much less than on the floor, so it makes no sense to make the structure heavier and transfer money. If the roof is made of flexible tiles or roofing felt, you can put a bar at all 50x60 mm. In the middle we twist with additional support posts, which we considered in the previous section.

STEP 2: main rafters. A wooden beam of 80x30 mm is suitable for a gazebo with parameters of 4x4 meters or less. Install from the corners of the top trim to the middle of the room, it would be better to use a plumb line and a professional level to equally set and secure all 4 rafters. Cut the upper edge of the bars at an angle of 45 degrees so that the rafters converge in the center of the room without gaps and protrusions.

STEP 3: auxiliary rafters. We find the center at each side of the upper harness and from it we lay auxiliary bars (40x30 mm) up to the center. They will support the roofing material, prevent subsidence of the roof. Be sure to lay everything in level, maintain the same value. Check the evenness of the structure, if nothing protrudes anywhere, you can twist everything with screws and fasten it with metal clamps at the top.

STEP 4: lay sheets of plywood or OSB. Everything is simple here, if the rafters are well aligned beforehand. Screw every 20 centimeters to the main and auxiliary rafters. You will definitely need to cut sheets, make it easier on the ground, after marking the necessary lines.

STEP 5: roofing material. Now you can lay anything you want, but euroroofing material or flexible tiles will look beautiful. We begin to lay it from below, or from above, slipping each next sheet under the bottom of the previous one with an overlap of 4-5 centimeters. From above, you can make a "skate" to prevent moisture from entering. On the main rafters, you can easily tuck the edge of the material and screw it in to avoid unsightly metal protection against water.

We examined how to build a gazebo with our own hands and you only need to additionally varnish the whole tree so that it does not corrode. It is better to do this at the end, because during the construction process the materials are always damaged and will have to be repainted.

If you want to decorate the structure, you can install wicker panels on the bottom trim or lay a wooden beam - it will be much more comfortable and tidy inside. But if you are looking for a way to make a gazebo with your own hands with minimal investment, then you will have to give up such decorations. One panel (400 by 80 centimeters) of woven wicker or planks will cost at least 4,000 rubles.

Gatherings with guests, dinner with the family in the fresh air, relaxation after work in the garden and vegetable garden - an economy class summer gazebo in any of these situations will be very useful to you. It is far from always advisable to make it large-scale and roomy, in most cases a small and budget building is enough, which will delight you and your guests.

The classic dimensions of the summer gazebo

The optimal size of a small summer gazebo is 3 by 3 meters. This is enough for a family circle, and for a small group of people.

Today's problems are:

• How to build a budget summer gazebo with your own hands?
• What materials can be used to make a summer structure at the lowest cost?
• How much would such a construction cost?

This publication will consider a step-by-step process of erecting a small gazebo from a bar with dimensions of 3 by 3 meters from a photo and video. This option is one of the cheapest and most practical for construction, but if for some reason it does not suit you, at the end of the publication I will provide links to similar articles on construction.

Before proceeding with active actions, I propose to study the final result of the work and its technical characteristics.

Most budget gazebos are built on the same principle, the cost of materials is also about the same, but still I would like to focus on this - it is important to understand what and from what we are going to build.

Technical characteristics of the finished gazebo

The photo is presented to the right of the characteristics. Clicking on a photo will open it in a larger size.

End result of construction

• Material: Beam 100 by 100 mm;
• Dimensions: 3 by 3 meters;
• Foundation: columnar (made of bricks);
• Roof: single slope;
• Roof: euroslate (ondulin), but you can use a more budget option - corrugated board;
• wall cladding: oriented strand board (OSB);
• Floor: board 40 by 100 mm "magpie";
• Painting: antiseptic Senezh Ultra in 3 layers.

Materials for construction are used the simplest and cheapest. Nevertheless, they are quite enough for a reliable and strong building, which will stand for more than one year and withstand more than one hundred rains.

Foundation

For such a structure, a columnar foundation was chosen. It consists of nine brick pillars, which are the basis for the entire gazebo. The process of building the foundation is as follows:

1. 9 holes are dug with a depth of 70 cm;
2. The first 30 cm are covered with sand (ideally put a little crushed stone on the bottom) and compacted;
3. The remaining 40 cm are covered with construction waste and poured with concrete;
4. Two bricks are laid on top of the concrete (ideally, fired ceramic red);
5. A layer of bitumen is applied over the bricks and, ideally, a sheet of roofing material is laid.

Finished foundation pillars

Such a foundation is extremely reliable for small buildings. A summer gazebo is an ideal building for such a foundation. Therefore, it was he who was given preference during construction.

Bottom trim

On top of the foundation, the lower harness is laid, which consists of wooden bars fastened together. The fastening of the beam to each other is carried out "in the floor of the tree." The connection must first be treated with an antiseptic or bitumen. Four self-tapping screws are screwed over the connections for reliability.

In addition to the four beams along the perimeter, one additional one is installed in the center - the so-called "lag". In the future, it will be needed to attach the floor board to the harness (more on this in the chapter on the floor).

Finished bottom harness

Poles and top trim

Poles are installed on the lower trim, which will serve as the basis for the walls and the upper trim. Four posts are installed at the corners of the gazebo, and one additional post is installed next to the entrance to the height of the railing.

The height of the front pillars is 230 cm, the height of the rear pillars is 200 cm. This is done for the further construction of the roof slope.

Fastening poles to metal corners

The upper harness consists of two beams that are installed parallel to each other on top of the pillars. The fastening is identical to the lower harness - to the floor of the tree.

Installed poles and top trim

Roof erection and roofing

The whole process will be more clearly described in the form of a phased approach:

1. We fasten 9 rafters on top of the lower strapping in increments of 30 cm;
2. Parallel to the rafters, we install 9 boards also in increments of 30 cm;
3. If you did everything clearly according to the instructions, then you should get a roof in the form of bars;
4. We lay sheets of ondulin or corrugated board on top of the roof, depending on your capabilities.

rafters

crate

The rafters are attached to the strapping on metal corners and self-tapping screws. It turns out a fairly reliable design that can withstand not only the roof, but also winter snow.

finished roof

Floor

After installing the pillars, you can start laying the floor. You will need about 30 boards 3 meters long, some of which will need to fit under the posts. The floor is fastened with self-tapping screws to the lower trim and the log in the center.

The secret to a level floor is to place the first plank evenly. If you succeeded, then the process will go more fun.

finished floor

Railings and sheathing with OSB boards

For railings, a beam with a section of 50 by 50 mm is used, which is mounted at a height convenient for people. In addition to the beam, it will be necessary to install additional supports, on which the oriented strand board will be attached in the future. All this is clearly shown in the photographs that will be presented below.

Attaching railings to corners

Finished railings

The OSB board is attached to self-tapping screws, plus they are additionally pressed down with bars in the center. This creates not only reliability, but also additional aesthetics.

Laying the first OSB boards

A few words about antiseptic and paint

The proposed version of an inexpensive gazebo turned out to be extremely beautiful and spectacular. The main secret lies in a well-chosen color, which plays in contrast between the dark and light shade of the tree.

You can use your tree protection options, but the owner of this building recommends antiseptic Senezh Ultra, which is applied to three layers. This will allow you to achieve reliable protection of the tree and a beautiful appearance.

Video

I express my deep gratitude for the submitted video to the user of the channel with the name " Vasya Vasin". It was he who prepared this video on construction, and also commented on some of the questions that he was asked in the comments.

If you have any questions, you can ask them both in the comments to his video and in our feed after publication. We can send him your questions, and then receive and write you his answer.

Photos of summer arbors

Wooden gazebo with decor for summer holidays

In one of the publications on our website, we examined in detail the variety of summer arbors made not only of wood, but also of other building materials.

You can see options with different types and designs, as well as pick up some idea for your dacha, at the link below.

Construction options for other structures

For various reasons, this construction option is not suitable for everyone. In view of this, I offer you construction instructions similar in style to writing, in which the process of building a gazebo with your own hands is also clearly and clearly chewed.

Several links are provided below.

Among the options presented, all buildings are made of wood and in a fairly budget format. Any elite building materials such as decorative plaster or wild stone are not used here.