How to grow cucumbers in the garden. How to grow cucumbers in the garden

How nice, having arrived at the dacha, to crunch on a delicious cucumber, plucked directly from the garden. Having acquired a plot, newly minted vegetable growers rush to garden centers for seeds. They buy bags with the most beautiful pictures, throw seeds into the open ground, and look forward to the desired harvest. And they are upset when they see, instead of the expected beauties, stunted bushes with crooked fruits. It turns out that in order to grow many tasty and fragrant cucumbers, you need to know the rules for their cultivation.

Not every vegetable grower has a greenhouse on the site. And in the gardens in Rus', many generations of our ancestors grew cucumbers. And this method has positive aspects.

  • No need to build an expensive greenhouse.
  • Cucumbers grown outdoors are much tastier than greenhouse ones.
  • It is possible, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beds allows, to grow cucumbers horizontally, in spreading, saving on materials for trellises and time for tying.
  • Cucumbers in the open field are much tastier than greenhouse ones

    But there are circumstances that can minimize all the efforts of a vegetable grower who sowed cucumbers in a garden bed.

  • Frosts that occur in the middle lane even in the first half of June, and resume at the end of August.
  • Significant differences in night and day temperatures cause disease and reduced yields.
  • The first cucumbers ripen in the garden much later than greenhouse ones.
  • All these factors must be overcome using various devices and techniques.

    How to grow cucumbers in the beds: popular planting methods

    Cucumbers can be planted in two ways:

  • having previously grown seedlings indoors;
  • seeds directly into the garden.
  • Growing and planting seedlings

    The gradual cultivation of cucumbers, first indoors, with the subsequent transfer of the grown plants to the beds, makes it possible to get fruits 2–3 weeks earlier. As a rule, seeds are sown for seedlings 30 days before transplantation. The optimal time for planting finished seedlings is mid-May. To germinate seedlings faster, the seeds are germinated. To do this, they are laid out on wet gauze or cotton pads soaked in water. Varietal seeds, and collected at home, must be disinfected by placing them in a solution of potassium permanganate (maroon) for 10 minutes, and then washing in plain water. Hybrid seeds are usually sold already processed, so they are simply soaked.

    Seeds soaked in cotton pads wake up on the second day

    The hatched seeds are sown in containers with nutrient soil, which is best bought at the garden center. When planting, the seed is buried in the soil by 1–1.5 cm. Shoots should appear on 3–4 days.

    It should be remembered that in cucumbers, the suction roots are very delicate and easily damaged, and are restored very slowly. It is necessary to grow seedlings in such containers so that when transplanted from them, the roots are not damaged. Newspaper bags are best suited for these purposes.

    To preserve the integrity of the roots during transplantation, cucumber seedlings are grown in newspaper bags.

    The main thing for cucumber seedlings is a sufficient amount of light so that the plants do not turn out to be very elongated. The temperature in the room should be 22–25 ° C during the day and at least 16 ° C at night. Plants should be watered very carefully, not allowing the soil to dry out, but not flooding the roots, which can suffocate.

    It is not recommended to keep seedlings indoors for more than 30 days. You can plant plants 20-25 days after germination.

    Cucumber seedlings grown in peat pots are transferred to the ground without being removed from the container

    To plant seedlings in the ground, holes are made on the prepared bed at a distance of at least 25-30 cm from each other. If the soil has been prepared correctly, nothing is added to the wells. Paper or peat pots are placed in them so that the level of the soil in the pot is 1-2 cm below the level of the beds and fill up all the voids around, Form a hole with sides and water the planted plants abundantly.

    The seedling method also has its drawbacks.:

  • Not everyone has the opportunity to place containers with growing plants in the house.
  • Difficulties arise with lighting. Light bulbs are quite expensive.
  • It is difficult to transport seedlings from the apartment to the country house. There is a chance to damage tender seedlings.
  • Video: how to plant seedlings in the garden

    Soil and garden preparation

    There are many different ways to cultivate cucumbers without using greenhouses:

  • In the trenches
  • In spread.
  • On high beds.
  • Vertically, with fastening to supports.
  • Curtains or Christmas tree.
  • Combined with other plants in beds and flower beds.
  • In bags or barrels.
  • Each of these methods is applicable in certain conditions. The vegetable grower chooses from them the most suitable for his climate and soil.

    Cultivation of cucumbers in trenches

    In regions with dry and hot summers, as well as in areas with heavy clay soils, It is convenient to grow cucumbers in trenches. To get the maximum yield you need:

  • Choose a place for planting cucumbers. It should be sunny, protected from the wind.
  • Dig a trench 50 cm deep and 70–80 cm wide, positioning it from south to north. Fold the fertile soil from the upper layer into buckets, or along the edge of the groove, and scatter the lower layers in the aisles of the garden, or take them out of the site. It cannot be used for garden beds.
  • Fill the resulting trench up to half with organic matter. Cucumbers love not completely rotted compost, so you can fill the recess with the contents of the compost heap. Any other will do: leaves, grass, hay, chopped branches, etc.

    It must be remembered that the organic residues that filled the trench will rot and generate heat. Therefore, in regions with hot summers, the bottom of the trench is filled only with humus or ready-made compost. Otherwise, the bed will be warm, which is undesirable in the heat.

  • Fill the rest of the space with mature humus or compost mixed with excavated fertile soil, add hardwood ash at the rate of 1 liter jar per 1 linear meter of trench. It is useful to add here 200-300 g of bone or blood meal. In arid regions, the trench is not filled to the top, and the level of the resulting beds is made 5–10 cm below the soil level. In other cases, the soil should be 5-10 cm above this level.
  • Pour plenty of hot water over the filled trench and cover with non-woven material for 5-10 days. After the specified time, cucumbers can be planted.
  • Photo gallery: ways to fill a trench for cucumbers

    Dry foliage is also suitable for an organic cushion at the bottom of the trench. Leaves laid at the bottom of the trench will add friability to the soil. Food waste, gradually overheating, creates additional nutrition for cucumbers and warms their roots. Cardboard laid at the bottom of the trench will protect the soil in it from germinating weeds.

    Preparing beds for growing cucumbers in spreading, in rows

    This method is good only with a sufficient area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site where they can be grown in spreading, allowing them to freely trail along the ground. In this case, the bed is dug up shallowly, humus or compost is added, 1–2 buckets per 1 m 2 of the bed, 1 liter jar of ash, 200 g of bone or blood meal. The width of the beds is 70–80 cm. The beds are placed at soil level at a distance of 1.5 m from each other.

    To protect against frost and cold, covering material is thrown over the cucumbers.

    When growing cucumbers in spreading, the plants weave freely along the aisles

    Growing cucumbers in warm beds

    Warm beds are suitable for growing plants outdoors in regions with cool summers. Cucumbers like their roots to be warm, so they grow well on such structures. The manufacturing technology of such ridges is quite simple. Their width is not more than 80 cm, length 4–10 m, height 40–45 cm. The fence can be made of wood, slate or other materials. First, a box is made around the perimeter of the garden. It is installed directly on the grass, which is trampled down and covered with cardboard or simply newspapers in several layers. Further arrangement of the beds is carried out according to the same principle as filling the trench. First organic, then fertile soil.

    Any organic matter is placed at the bottom of the bed

    Various designs of supports for cucumber lashes

    The most common designs for garter cucumber lashes are vertical trellises. They can be arranged in the form of stretched ropes, various nets. To comfortably care for plants, trellises are not made higher than two meters. The use of vertical structures allows:

  • Save space.
  • Reduce the risk of diseases, as the plants are well ventilated.
  • Harvest without damaging the lashes.
  • Increase the fruiting period of plants.
  • Decorate the site with non-standard elements.
  • This method has one drawback - the material costs for the construction of the trellis, but they can be minimized using inexpensive materials.

    Photo gallery: trellis designs

    A trellis made of planks will not only hold cucumber lashes, but also decorate the plot. Twine on such a design is convenient to mount and remove in the fall. On this design, cucumbers take up very little space. Tapestries can also be inclined. materials available

    Growing cucumbers in bags and barrels

    Among the many ways to grow cucumbers in the open air, another one has recently gained recognition - growing cucumbers in large plastic bags. Cultivation of cucumbers in barrels or large buckets is also popular. Such mobile beds have many advantages:

  • A lot of space is saved, since such a container can be placed anywhere on the site, as long as it is bright and protected from the wind.
  • With the threat of frost, such beds are easy to transfer to shelter.
  • You can plant cucumbers in a barrel every year, as the soil in it is easy to change and plant cucumbers again next season.
  • In any case, the container is filled, as in the case of cultivation by other methods: the bottom layer consists of various organic matter, and nutrient soil is on top.

    It should be borne in mind that in small containers, heating is greater and moisture evaporates faster. Therefore, such containers should be watered every day, and on hot days - twice a day.

    Photo gallery: non-standard beds

    Cucumbers in a barrel need to be watered daily Barrels with cucumber lashes take up very little space on the site Sugar bags do an excellent job as containers for cucumbers It is convenient and economical to grow cucumbers in large plastic bags

    How to plant cucumber seeds in open ground, growing features

    The easiest way is to plant cucumbers directly into the ground with seeds. Landing times are different for each region. The average sowing time is from mid-May to early June.

    Experienced vegetable growers do not advise pre-soaking the seeds. They are sown in furrows or in holes, depending on the chosen method of cultivation.

    A groove in the prepared soil is made 2–3 cm deep. Water it well with water so that it saturates a layer of at least 10–15 cm. Then the seeds are laid out at a distance of 25–30 cm from each other and sprinkled with earth. For safety net, you can put not one at a time, but 2-3 seeds each, if you are not sure of 100% seed germination. From above, the bed is covered with a film that will protect the earth from drying out. Immediately after the emergence of shoots, the film is removed.

    From the ascended plants, the strongest is chosen, the rest are carefully cut with scissors.

    Video: planting seeds in the garden

    When planting cucumbers with a “herringbone”, holes are marked around the support, in which 2-3 seeds are also placed, then leaving one of the strongest plants.

    How to cover

    To protect cucumbers from late return frosts, temporary shelters are made over the beds. They allow you to plant plants and get a harvest at an earlier date. Arcs are best suited for these purposes - metal or willow twigs, which are installed above the garden. Shelter is thrown from above on the arcs. The most suitable for these purposes is agrospan or other similar white material. The film for covering the beds is used only in case of severe cold and frost, on cold nights, when the temperature drops below +8 o C. It is thrown over the non-woven material.

    The arcs are then used as supports for the lashes, instead of the trellis.

    Photo gallery: flint shelters on cucumber beds

    Cucumbers sheltered from the wind and cold do not get sick and give a good harvest. In especially cool summers, cucumbers feel good under the film. Arcs to support temporary shelter made of agrospan also serve as a trellis for tying lashes. The original greenhouse for cucumbers, after the threat of frost, turns into a trellis

    Care

    Care for cucumbers consists in the formation of a bush, garter, regular watering and top dressing, timely harvesting.

    How to form a cucumber bush

    Each method of cultivation requires a different formation of the cucumber bush. In a garden bed, when growing cucumbers in spreading, a bush does not form.

    The formation of the bush is needed to regulate the female (with ovaries) and male flowers (barren flowers) on the plant. Moreover, in varietal bee-pollinated cucumbers, male flowers are located on the main lash, and female flowers on lateral shoots. And in hybrids, on the contrary, female flowers are located in the axils of the leaves of the main shoot, and male flowers are located on the lateral lashes. Parthenocarpic cucumbers mainly have female flowers, which do not need a pollinator.

    Varietal cucumbers are formed in several lashes. At the main shoot, after the fifth leaf, the crown is pinched, and thereby the growth of stepchildren is stimulated. Leave the first two and form a bush from them. On these shoots, the flowers are already female, so their formation in the future is reduced to the removal of stepchildren growing from the axils of the leaves.

    Hybrids form in one stem. Until the fifth leaf, all ovaries are plucked (blinded) from the leaf sinuses. And from the fifth to the 10th sheet, the stepchildren are shortened to the second sheet. For each subsequent five sheets, the stepchildren are shortened to the fifth sheet, and so on.

    The formation of a cucumber bush is a creative matter. The main thing is to understand the principle. Some things can be made shorter, some longer. The bush itself will tell you how to do better. You just need to carefully observe and not be afraid to experiment.

    Video: shaping a cucumber bush in the garden

    Parthenocarpic, that is, self-fertile cucumbers are best formed in one lash, removing all stepchildren coming from the leaf axils. When the plant reaches the top of the trellis, the shoot is thrown over and directed with the top down. They pinch the lash only when 80–100 cm remain from the top to the level of the bed.

    How to tie up cucumbers in the open field

    Cucumber lashes need to be tied to the trellis. For these purposes, you need to use wide, soft strips of fabric, as narrow and hard can damage the plant. The garter begins when 5 true leaves grow on the bush. The knot is made under the second leaf, and then the growing plant is wrapped counterclockwise around the guide rope, passing it under each leaf.

    The knots on the stem do not need to be tightened too much. The plant grows and the stem thickens. It is necessary to give him a gap to increase the thickness.

    If a mesh serves as a trellis for a plant, the whips can be attached to it with special clothespins, which are sold in stores for gardeners and gardeners. It is convenient to use such devices because in the fall it is easy to detach the lashes from the grid by removing the clothespins.

    Watering and fertilizing

    A bountiful harvest of cucumbers cannot be obtained without watering and feeding regularly.

  • Cucumbers need regular watering, but do not like stagnant water at the roots.
  • Water only with warm water, with a temperature not lower than 25 ° C.
  • It is best to water early in the morning.
  • It is most correct to supply water into the furrows, along the beds, so that the water jet does not wash away the roots, and the plants remain dry.
  • Sprinkling cucumbers is contraindicated.
  • The best results are obtained by drip irrigation of beds.
  • Drip irrigation of beds allows you to maintain the moisture they need at the roots of cucumbers

    In order for the yield of cucumbers to be consistently high until the end of the season, cucumbers should be fed. Fertilizers plants need both organic and mineral. Organics will provide weekly top dressing with "green fertilizer" - fermented grass (1:10), and mineral - infusion of ash of hardwood trees, at the rate of 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of boiling water. This infusion is kept for a day, then filtered and watered plants once a week. Top dressing is necessary during the entire growing season. Mineral and organic are best not done on the same day, but spaced apart in time. For example, feed "green manure" on Mondays, and infusion of ash - on Thursdays. A 1 liter jar of solution is applied under each plant after watering.

    In order for the fruiting of cucumbers to continue until frost, it is useful to feed the plants with the following composition: dilute 2 liters of whey and 150 g of sugar in a bucket of water. Spray and water cucumbers. After such processing, the ovaries form again on the cucumbers, and they bear fruit.

    Video: how to make green manure


    Features for regions, including Moscow region

    Cultivation of cucumbers in open ground differs in cultivation methods and terms. There are regions in which these vegetables are not grown in open beds. This is Siberia, the Northern Urals.

    In the southern regions, for example, in the Kuban, they begin to sow cucumbers for seedlings at the end of February and planting in open ground is done in several stages, ending sowing at the end of June, stretching the fruiting until the end of October. It is best to grow cucumbers in the southern regions in shallow trenches.

    In the Leningrad region and adjacent to it, cucumbers are sown in early June, and shelters above the beds are not removed all season due to cold nights, removing covering material for the day. Cucumbers grow best in this region on high warm beds under removable shelters.

    In the suburbs, summers are warmer, but return frosts occur even in early June, and from August the nights become cold. Therefore, cucumbers are grown on warm beds under temporary shelters, saving plants from cold nights and heavy dew in August. In order to get cucumbers in the Moscow region in mid-June, they need to be sown for seedlings at the end of April. Varieties must be selected taking into account climatic conditions - cold-resistant and early ripening.

    The rest of the rules for caring for cucumbers in the open field are the same for all regions.

    What could be better than fresh, crispy cucumbers picked from the garden in the early morning

    Growing cucumbers outdoors is easy. There is an opportunity to show imagination, to experience the most incredible ways, turning routine work into a creative process. And the reward is delicious and healthy vegetables on the table all year round, as cucumbers will respond to care with a generous harvest, which is enough for harvesting for the whole winter.

    Cucumber stalk (lash) branching, creeping, rarely bushy. Shoots of the first order depart from the main stem, shoots of the second order, but shorter, etc. depart from them. Cucumber roots are extremely sensitive to heat, especially during seed germination and emergence.

    Cucumber- monoecious dioecious plant, i.e. both male and female flowers are on the same plant. However, there are dioecious or partially dioecious plants. Male flowers are placed 5-7 pieces in the form of a bunch. Female flowers are larger than male flowers, mostly solitary, but there are varieties with a bunch arrangement. The number of male flowers is usually much larger than female ones. At the same time, there are usually more male flowers on the main stem, and more female flowers on the lateral lashes located further from the main stem.

    The fruit of the cucumber is a false multi-seeded berry (pumpkin), the technically ripe fruit is green. The shape of the greens can be from spherical to sickle-shaped, but in most varieties it is cylindrical or elongated-ovoid. The surface is smooth, finely or coarsely tuberculate, pubescent with white or black spines. Coloring - from milky white to dark green, sometimes with a pattern on the fruit. Biologically ripe fruits - testes are 1.5-2 times larger than greens. Their color of the fruit is white, yellow, brown, in many a mesh is formed, lignification of the seed coats occurs. The fruit contains 100-400 seeds. Cucumber seeds are flat, smooth, oblong, white or light cream, 15-17 mm long. 1 g contains 30-60 seeds.

    Nutritional value of cucumbers

    Young unripe fruits are used for food - Zelentsy. They contain vitamins C, B1, B2 and P, carotene, enzymes, aromatic substances and mineral salts. Cucumber fruits have very valuable taste and medicinal qualities. Alkaline salts reduce the acidity of gastric juice, and a high content of potassium promotes the release of water from the body, has a beneficial effect on the functioning of the heart, kidneys, and liver. Regular consumption of cucumbers reduces the conversion of carbohydrates into fats, which is important for those who want to lose weight.

    Zelentsy is consumed fresh, salted and pickled.

    Forms with white spikes retain consumer qualities and presentation longer. For salting, varieties with black spikes are usually used.

    How to increase the nutritional value of cucumbers

    Under natural light, vitamin C is formed in fruits more than under artificial light. The use of growth regulators and foliar top dressing with microelements increases the yield and accumulation of vitamins: CuSO4 - by 18-21%, MnSO4 - by 16-19%.

    To prevent the accumulation of nitrates, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the recommendations, without exceeding the norms, maintain the temperature regime when growing cucumbers and monitor soil moisture.

    To prevent diseases, it is necessary, first of all, to use disease-resistant varieties, biological and agrotechnical methods of combating diseases. To combat pests in greenhouses, it is also necessary to apply biological and agrotechnical methods.

    Unwanted Items

    Cucumbers at high temperatures, low soil and air humidity and excessive nitrogen nutrition accumulate a large amount of nitrates - 2-3 times more than the norm (maximum permissible concentration - 150 mg / kg). At the same time, in old resistant varieties, nitrates are within the maximum allowable norm, and in hybrids, the concentration of nitrates is increased.

    The use of growth regulators for cucumbers

    The use of growth regulators on cucumbers helps, firstly, to avoid damage by diseases and pests, since when cucumbers are diseased, toxins of phytopathogenic fungi also enter the fruits (even outwardly healthy ones), and some of them are harmful to humans. Therefore, the fight against diseases must be carried out using the natural immunity of plants and strengthening it with natural methods. In addition, the use of biological plant growth regulators prevents the accumulation of nitrates, increases resistance to adverse diseases and increases the content of vitamins in fruits.

    Gibbersib (a natural plant growth regulator) increases the yield by 12-20%, increases the content of sugars and vitamin C. Reduces cucumber diseases by 1.3 times. Cucumbers are sprayed with a solution of Gibbersib (40-60 ml per 1 sq. M) 2 times - when single plants bloom and during mass flowering in the morning or evening hours.

    Silk is a highly effective natural plant growth regulator from fir needles. It has a wide range of useful properties, regulates plant growth, and has a fungicidal effect. The drug disappears without a trace from plants and soil in the process of natural metabolism in 10-15 days. On cucumbers, the yield increases and the content of sugar and vitamin C increases. The incidence of peronosporosis, bacteriosis and powdery mildew decreases by half, and the incidence of desiccation - 1.5 times.

    Epin is an analogue of a natural phytohormone. Epin activates other phytohormones in plants - gibberellins, cytokinins and auxins, regulates the synthesis by the plant itself of its own hormones necessary in one or another phase of development and thereby increases crop yields in stressful situations, their resistance to diseases. When soaking cucumber seeds, their germination increases by 20%; when spraying cucumber plants in the budding phase, the yield increases by 22%, the incidence of downy mildew decreases, the content of sugars and vitamin C increases.

    Growing cucumbers

    Cucumber varieties resistant to diseases

    Complex resistance to diseases was registered in hybrids

    Anyuta (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, powdery mildew, tolerant to downy mildew).

    Business (to powdery, downy mildew, common mosaic and angular spotting (bacteriosis)).

    Virenta (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, powdery mildew, tolerant to downy mildew).

    Voskhod (to cladosporiosis, cucumber mosaic virus, powdery mildew, downy mildew, bacteriosis, brown leaf spot, root rot).

    Danila (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, powdery mildew, tolerant to downy mildew).

    Emelya (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, tolerant to root rot and powdery mildew).

    Katyusha (for olive spotting, angular spotting, powdery and downy mildew).

    Mazay (to the common mosaic virus, cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, downy mildew, root rot).

    Makar (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, tolerant to root rot).

    Marta (to cucumber mosaic virus, olive blotch, tolerant to root rot).

    Placement of beds with cucumbers

    Under cucumbers, areas are allocated that are well lit and warmed up, reliably protected from winds of all directions, especially from cold ones. If there is no reliable protection from the winds, it is created by sowing high-stemmed plants that form a backstage (beans, peas).

    cucumbers give good yields on fertile, fairly light soils. On cold heavy soils, they are grown on high (30-40 cm or more) ridges with the addition of loosening materials - sawdust, straw cutting, coarse sand, manure, peat, humus with the addition of mineral fertilizers. The best predecessors for cucumber are potatoes, tomatoes, legumes, table root vegetables. You can not grow cucumbers in the place where cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, zucchini grew in the previous year. It is recommended to sow cucumbers along with corn and sunflower. This increases the yield of cucumbers by 6-7 times, significantly lengthens the fruiting period.

    Soil preparation for growing cucumbers

    The soil should be plowed up or dug up from autumn to a depth of 20-22 cm, at the same time fertilizer is applied - manure or humus (5-10 kg per 1 sq. M) and mineral fertilizers: 25-30 g of superphosphate, 10-20 g of potassium salt per 1 sq. m. In early spring, 3-4 days before sowing, the site is dug up with the addition of mineral fertilizers and leveled. After that, ridges or ridges are arranged. It is better to make a bed for cucumbers on biofuel: a layer of organic matter (straw, grass, leaves well saturated with a solution of phosphorus and potash fertilizers) is placed in a recess of 15–20 cm, a layer of fertile soil 20–25 cm is placed on the organic matter, and seeds or seeds are sown in it. planting seedlings. The roots of cucumbers are much more sensitive to cold than the aerial part, if the temperature of the roots drops to + 8 ° C and below, then the plants will get sick. Sowing cucumbers is started when the soil temperature at a depth of 6-10 cm reaches + 16 ... 18 ° C, usually by this time the leaves have already blossomed on the trees. In the central regions, this happens on May 20-30.

    Preparing seeds for sowing

    For sowing, it is better to take old seeds (2 - 4-year shelf life). Plants grown from them produce more female flowers and are therefore more productive. Seeds that have lain for 7-8 years are bubbled - they are kept in water through which air is passed (using an aquarium compressor). This increases their resilience. Before sowing, it is advisable to warm fresh seeds in the sun for at least 4 hours or hang them in a bag near the battery for a month.

    Before sowing, the seeds are sorted, larger, more viable are selected. To prevent diseases of cucumbers, the seeds are treated for 13-30 minutes before sowing with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, after which they are rinsed with clean water. The pumping of cucumber seeds is carried out in a solution with the addition of nutrients or growth stimulants. After soaking, the seeds are placed for germination in a warm place for 24 hours, maintaining a temperature of + 22 ... 25 ° C.

    Growing seedlings of cucumbers

    The germinated seeds are sown in seedling pots or cubes to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Until the emergence of shoots, the soil temperature is maintained at + 20 ... 25 ° C, and then reduced to + 18 ... 20 ° C. High quality seedlings can be obtained in glazed window or table greenhouses equipped with fluorescent lamps. On the windowsill, seedlings should be protected from cold air with a plastic curtain. Seedlings are watered as needed, one or two fertilizing with complex fertilizers is carried out.

    Cucumbers are light-loving short-day plants: growing them during the seedling period of 15-20 days with a short day (10-12 hours) accelerates development and increases yield. When the daylight hours are extended to 16 hours, flowering and fruiting are delayed. Bright intense light accelerates flowering, but leads to premature aging of plants and reduced yields. With a lack of light in the early period, the plants are stretched, the yield drops sharply.

    Seedlings ready for planting at the age of 25-30 days should have 3-6 true leaves and a shortened cotyledon knee. Seedlings should not be allowed to grow. After planting, it will not develop a sufficient leaf apparatus, it will bloom early, but will quickly become old, which will drastically reduce the yield.

    Hardening of seedlings intended for cultivation in open ground consists in lowering the air temperature 7–10 days before planting to +15:..16°C. Cucumbers are extremely sensitive to damage to the root system, so transplanting should be carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the roots.

    When planting, cucumber plants are treated with a root formation stimulator - Heteroauxin, Kornevin or Kornerost.

    Planting seedlings in greenhouses and greenhouses

    Cucumbers in the greenhouse can be grown in containers with a volume of 7-10 liters or directly in the ground, on a flat surface, or better on ridges or ridges.

    The soil for cucumbers should be fertile, loose, pass water, air, heat. In order to avoid the spread of diseases, it is necessary to ensure that this soil or its individual components have not previously been used for growing cucumbers. To prevent fungal diseases of plants, the soil is watered with Trichodermin or Boverin solutions containing microorganisms that inhibit the development of phytopathogenic fungi.

    Seedlings are planted in greenhouses with a two-line tape with row spacing of 16-20 cm, in a row of 10-15 cm, depending on the variety. The holes are staggered to provide each plant with the same feeding area. In each hole put a handful of organomineral mixture (300-500 g of humus, compost or peat, mixed with 5-10 g of superphosphate or potassium salt). Then 0.5-1 liter of water is poured into each hole, a peat pot with seedlings is lowered into the resulting slurry and covered with soil, tightly compressing the walls with it.

    For planting use 20-25-day seedlings. In solar-heated greenhouses, it is planted in early or mid-May. The optimum temperature for flowering and fruit formation of cucumbers is +18...25°C. At low (+7...12°C) or very high (above +35°C) temperatures, fertilization does not occur in cucumbers. A short 12-13-hour day, the content of carbon monoxide or acetylene in the air also contribute to the formation of female flowers and an increase in their number.

    With the seedless method, germinated seeds are sown with a two-line tape. On a stretched cord, grooves are made 4-6 cm deep at a distance of 16-20 cm from one another. Then they are watered with warm water and the seeds are immediately laid out after 4-5 cm. After that, the grooves are covered with soil (a layer of 2-3 cm), and peat is mulched on top. Seedlings are thinned out when the first true leaf is formed, early-ripening varieties by 10-15 cm, mid- and late-ripening varieties by 15-25 cm.

    For tying plants, trellises are arranged. A wire or a nylon cord is pulled along each row at a height of 150-200 cm. A week after planting, twine is tied to the wire above each plant and the lower end of the twine is tied with a free loop to the plant above the second and third leaves. In order not to accidentally damage the plants, the twine is tied freely, with a safety tolerance.

    Sowing in the ground

    Usually germinated seeds are sown, prepared in the same way as for growing in a greenhouse. Cucumbers are sown in grooves 6-8 cm deep at a distance of 2-3 cm seed from seed. Then the furrow is covered with a 2-3 cm layer of earth and mulched with 2-3 cm peat. To obtain early cucumbers in the central and northern regions, it is more expedient to grow seedlings and plant them in open ground after the threat of frost has passed. Seedlings are planted in pits on ridges or in an ordinary way on a flat surface at a distance of 20 cm in a row if there is one plant in a pot, and 40 cm if there are two. The distance between rows is 40-90 cm, depending on the variety of cucumber.

    Plant care in greenhouses and greenhouses

    At first, cucumbers are watered every 2-3 days, depending on soil moisture. Do this carefully so that water does not get on the leaves and cause burns. Cucumbers are fed every 7-10 days. If fed in the morning, then the film is kept lowered for at least two hours and raised only if the temperature under it rises significantly. If watered in the evening, then the film is not lifted until the morning.

    For cucumbers, sudden changes in air temperature during the day, dryness or excessive moisture in the soil and air are very dangerous. Regular timely ventilation of the greenhouse, maintaining the optimal regime, temperature and humidity are the best preventive means of protecting cucumbers from pests and diseases. Prior to fruiting, the air temperature in the greenhouse is maintained at +22...24°С on sunny days, +20...22°С on cloudy days and +17...18°С at night. During fruiting, the temperature should be 1 ... 2 ° C higher. Lowering the temperature below +12...15°C and raising it above +35°C adversely affects the fertilization of the cucumber. The soil should not be allowed to cool down to temperatures below +16...18°C.

    During frosts, greenhouses are covered with mats, burlap, rags. When warm weather sets in, the greenhouse frames and the film are removed, in greenhouses they use all the possibilities of ventilation: they open doors, vents, etc. Sometimes the temperature in the greenhouse cannot be reduced by ventilation, then the slopes of the greenhouse are shaded with shields, cardboard sheets. In the second half of August, the greenhouses are again covered with frames and film.

    From the beginning of flowering, care must be taken to pollinate the flowers by bees, attracting them to greenhouses.

    Control of pests and diseases of cucumbers

    To combat diseases of cucumbers in greenhouses, biological preparations are used: Agat-25K (against root rot), Baktofit (against pathogens of powdery mildew of cucumbers and root rot), Pseudobacterin-2 PS-2 (against bacterial spotting and fungal diseases), Rizoplan (against root rot), Trichodermin (against root rot and ascochitosis), Trichothecin (against powdery mildew), Phyto plus (against powdery mildew and peronosporosis).

    To control pests in greenhouses, biological plant protection products are used: Bitoxibacillin, Boverin, Verticillin, Mikotal.

    Agat-25K- a biological product made on the basis of soil bacteria. The drug stimulates good growth of the root system, improving mineral and water nutrition, which helps to increase the yield. Soaking cucumber seeds and then spraying the plants results in a threefold reduction in root rot damage and a yield increase of 25%.

    Baktofit- a preparation based on a soil bacterium, has an antifungal and antibacterial, as well as a growth-stimulating effect, increases the vigor of germination and seed germination. Baktofit effectively suppresses pathogens of cucumber powdery mildew, cucumber root rot, and also has a stimulating effect, increases germination energy and seed germination, improves product quality.

    Immunophyte. Substances produced by fungi are a signal of preparation for the formation of nonspecific immunity in plants. Treatment of cucumber seeds and plants reduces the incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew and Alternaria, and also increases resistance to root rot disease. After spraying cucumber plants with the preparation in the flowering phase, there are no signs of bacterial and fungal diseases throughout the growing season, and the yield increases by 34%.

    The basis of the biological product Pseudobacterin-2(PS-2) are living cells of soil bacteria that have antagonistic activity against phytopathogenic fungi and bacteria. Pseudobacterin has a wide spectrum of action, it is used to protect plants from bacterial spotting and fungal diseases. Treatment of cucumber seeds, and then two treatments of vegetative plants give a stable yield increase of 18-20%.

    Rizoplan is a liquid culture of soil bacteria strain AP-33. It is used for pre-sowing treatment of seeds on the day of sowing. Rizoplan is used indoors on cucumbers against root rot.

    Trichodermin. A drug based on a fungus of the genus Trichoderma is used to combat a number of diseases in crops of open and protected ground. Trichodermin is effective in the fight against root rot and ascochitosis of cucumbers. Usually, the root part of plants is lubricated with the drug, less often vegetative plants are sprayed. Processing is repeated after 6-8 days.

    Trichothecin- a mushroom preparation used to combat powdery mildew of cucumbers. Seeds are soaked in 0.001% aqueous suspension for 12 hours. The high efficiency of the drug is achieved with its additional introduction into the soil at the initial stage of the disease with the addition of ammonium nitrate to the solution. Depending on the density and height of plants, trichothecin is used at the rate of 150-180 ml of the drug, diluted in 2-2.5 liters of water, per 10 square meters. m.

    Phytoplus- a preparation containing bacteria capable of producing 70 different antibiotics that inhibit the growth and development of pathogens of many plant diseases, as well as stimulating the growth and development of plants. The use of the drug on cucumbers reduces the incidence of powdery mildew and downy mildew and increases the yield by 10%.

    Bitoxibacillin used to fight against many pests: nightshade miner (spraying cucumber plants 2-3 times in 2-3 weeks), spider mites. Bitoxibacillin is also used in combination with other drugs to protect plants from aphids. In greenhouses, spraying cucumber plants every 10-12 days with a mixture of Entomofluorin, Bitoxibacillin and Boverin leads to the death of 73% of aphids.

    Boverin most active at moderate temperatures and high relative humidity (about 80%). To protect cucumbers from aphids, plants are sprayed every 10-12 days with a mixture of Entomophtorin, Bitoxibacillin and Boverin.

    Verticillin- mushroom biopreparation. Verticillin gives the greatest effect in the fight against whitefly in greenhouses on cucumbers, since the optimal conditions for the development of the plant and the fungus are the same. 3-4 treatments are carried out with an interval of 6-10 days. The use of Verticillin causes the death of not only 80% of the whitefly, but also 75% of the false scale insects.

    Mikotal- mushroom biopreparation. The treatment of greenhouse cucumbers only by Mikotal leads to a decrease in the number of western flower thrips by 60%. Since this fungus is harmless to predatory mites and bedbugs, its preparations are best used in conjunction with predators Amblyseius or Orius.

    As a rule, the effectiveness of the above biological products is not lower than the effectiveness of chemical plant protection products, and since these drugs are of natural origin, composed of natural components, their use to obtain environmentally friendly products is justified.

    Cultivation of cucumbers in open ground

    It is better to plant seedlings of cucumbers in the morning, slightly shading it if it is too hot at noon. Sowing or planting is carried out in 1-2 rows with a distance between rows of 20 cm. Seedlings are planted along a cord, along which holes of 10-12 cm are made with a planting scoop. adding 5-10 g of superphosphate or potassium salt). Then, 0.5-1 liter of water is poured into each hole and a pot with seedlings is lowered into the resulting slurry, covered with soil, tightly squeezing the walls of the pot with it. Seedlings are planted to the level of cotyledon leaves, mulched on top with a 2-centimeter layer of peat.

    To accelerate the fruiting of plants in open ground conditions at the beginning of summer, it is advisable to use small shelters: tunnels, frameless shelters made of film or non-woven material, glass frames.

    Caring for cucumbers consists in protecting against frost, loosening the soil, watering, fertilizing, fighting weeds, pests and diseases.

    After the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to loosen the soil and remove weeds. It is necessary to loosen a bed with cucumbers very carefully, remembering that the root system of cucumbers is located quite close to the soil surface. Loosening is stopped when the plants in the rows begin to close together and there is a danger of damage to them. When the first true leaf appears, the cucumbers are thinned out. For 1 sq. m beds should grow no more than 5-6 plants. A dense planting can be the cause of a small number of female flowers, the absence of ovaries, and a low yield. When thinning, the plants are not pulled out, but plucked out so as not to damage the root system of the plants left. After thinning, the plants are watered. As the plant grows, add fresh soil to the roots. It is advisable to slightly spud cucumbers twice: in the phase of 2-3 leaves and before closing the plants in a row.

    Cucumbers should be watered moderately, always with warm water, it is desirable that after watering the leaves have time to dry by night. Before fruiting, cucumbers are watered every 2-3 days, during fruiting - daily, but avoiding excess moisture. The water temperature must be at least +20...22°C. Cold water weakens the resistance of plants to diseases, worsens the quality of fruits. After each watering or rain, the soil is loosened.

    Top dressing cucumbers

    The first top dressing is carried out 10-15 days after planting seedlings: e 10 liters of water dissolve 10-15 g of urea, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 2-3 g of chalk, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate, 0.5 g of boric acid and 0 .3 g of manganese sulfate. After top dressing, the plants are watered with clean water to wash off the fertilizer from the leaves.

    The second top dressing is carried out before flowering. The dose of fertilizers is increased by 1.5-2 times.

    The third feeding is carried out a week after the second. If the lashes are thin, the leaves are small and pale - it is necessary to increase the dose of nitrogen, if fruiting is delayed - reduce the dose of nitrogen, increase the amount of phosphorus and potassium.

    Pest and disease control

    First of all, it consists in maintaining a favorable temperature and humidity.

    Entomophtorin T can be used to control aphids in the open field. This is a fungal biopreparation to control aphids. In the open field, with a single application of entomofluorin on cucumbers without other drugs, the efficiency reached 100%.

    At the first sign of the appearance of powdery mildew (white powdery coating on the leaves), the plants are dusted with disubstituted sodium phosphate, which is also an organic fertilizer.

    During the fruiting period, old and diseased leaves, old shoots are removed. After frosts, all plant residues from cucumber beds should be collected and destroyed (it is best to burn them) to prevent the spread of diseases.

    Harvesting cucumbers

    Picking cucumbers is carried out daily; during the picking, ugly, overgrown and diseased fruits must be removed. If you are late with the collection, the cucumbers turn yellow, become less tasty. The more often the harvest is carried out, the greater the yield of cucumbers. It is necessary to collect the fruits carefully, you can not pull, pull, twist the whips of plants.

    Before the first frost in September, all cucumbers are harvested, including small ones.

    Cucumber storage

    Fresh cucumbers cannot be stored for a long time; for better storage, they should not be washed or rubbed. Cucumbers should be washed only before eating and before salting.

    To preserve cucumbers, they are pickled or salted.

    Cucumber is a very capricious plant that needs warmth, light, abundant watering. Quite often, vegetable growers try to plant this crop in greenhouses. This does not at all mean the need to refuse to plant cucumbers in open beds. Modern gardeners practice effective cultivation of cucumbers in the open field, get excellent yields.

    Experienced summer residents willingly reveal the secrets of growing cucumbers, give advice on the most successful agricultural practices used when planting and caring for them. Below are recommendations, tips: how to grow cucumbers in the open field, guaranteed to get a significant harvest of tasty, healthy vegetables that will be a great addition to the household menu throughout the season.

    Wind protection

    If it is impossible to allocate a place for planting that is not blown by the winds, it is possible to plant crops around the perimeter of the beds that will successfully perform the functions of protecting cucumber lashes from cold air currents. Fast-growing corn, sunflower will perfectly cope with this function. At the time of planting cucumbers, they have already reached a height of 40 ... 50 cm. It is advisable to sow corn, sunflower at the end of April around the future cucumber bed according to the scheme: in 2 ... 3 rows with an interval of 25 cm between plants.

    Compliance with crop rotation of plants in the beds

    Studying the information "Cucumbers: cultivation and care in the open field", you will need to pay attention to the need to take into account the crop rotation of plants in the beds. Cabbage, peas, tomatoes planted last year are considered the best predecessors. Planting cucumbers in places where zucchini and squash grew before is not welcome.

    Soil requirements for crop

    As practice shows, cucumbers can grow in a variety of soils. The optimal soils for this crop are fertile sandy loams, loams, which have a light structure, well pass water and air.

    Preparing beds for cucumbers

    Cucumber culture in the open field feels best if it is planted in a high bed (recommended height 30 cm).

    This provides heating of plants, creates better conditions for the formation of surface roots. For the convenience of caring for cucumber bushes, beds should be equipped
    about 80 cm wide.

    Thinking about how to grow early cucumbers without a greenhouse, it is worth preparing the beds for planting in the fall. The soil will need to be dug up, fertilized.

    The preparation of the beds for cucumbers in the open field includes the application per square meter of soil: superphosphate (2 tablespoons), as well as ash (1 glass). In the spring, the land prepared in this way is additionally fertilized with manure or humus (5-6 kg). The soil is rolled, watered with a solution of manganese, covered with a film. After 10 - 12 days, planting work can be performed here.

    Installing trellises for cucumber lashes

    Having taken care of solving the problem: how to properly grow cucumbers in the open field, you will have to provide for the presence of trellises in the garden for gartering lashes. This will ensure the formation of compact bushes, simplify watering, removing excess leaves, and harvesting.

    A plant whose lashes are located on a trellis receives a large area for nutrition due to the release of soil between the bushes. On its lower part, the formation of condensate is excluded, which leads to a decrease in the risk of morbidity. During the harvest period, the fruits and lashes are not damaged.

    A gardener who has information: how to properly grow cucumbers on trellises, successfully applying knowledge in practice, can count on an increase in the fruiting period of plants, obtaining a rich harvest.

    Starting from the second half of May, as the beds warm up, you can remove the film and install the trellis. For this purpose, stakes made of wood or iron rods 2 m high (with a depth of 25 cm) are hammered into the ground, with an interval of 2.5 m. In addition, a net, twine or wire should be stretched between the installed supports. Stretching young plants are fixed on the net with soft twine. Further, the whips will spread themselves, attaching to the trellises with "antennae".

    Seeds or seedlings to choose for planting?

    Initially, you will have to choose seeds of cucumber varieties that have proven themselves well when planted in their climatic region. To pamper your family with early cucumbers, it is advisable to make a choice in favor of early ripe hybrids adapted to growth, fruiting in conditions that are far from ideal.

    A vegetable grower who has studied the information: everything about cucumbers from planting to growing will most likely perform hardening and seed treatment. Also, he will determine in advance with an acceptable method of planting seed material. Today, the cultivation of cucumbers in open ground in the Moscow region involves the use of seed and seedling planting methods. Having studied the methods of growing cucumbers, the gardener can easily decide on the method of planting plants that is most convenient for him.

    Planting seedlings in open ground

    Assessing the methods of growing cucumbers in the open field, you will need to pay attention to the promising seedling method. Planting seedlings in the garden is carried out when the earth warms up to a temperature of + 18 ° C. Before planting, the seedlings are well watered, then carefully removed from the containers (together with the earth), determined in pre-dug holes, the soil in which is well moistened with warm water.

    Rows between planted plants are mulched using sawdust and peat. A layer of mulch, about 3 cm thick, prevents the formation of a soil crust, inhibits the evaporation of moisture, and creates unsuitable conditions for the development of weeds.

    Sowing seeds in the garden

    A gardener who has chosen to grow from seeds: must know for sure. This event is carried out after the soil has warmed up to a temperature of + 15 ... + 18 ° C. Dry or germinated seeds can be used as planting material.

    A vegetable grower who knows the secrets of growing cucumbers in the open field will certainly prefer seeds aged 2 to 3 years, since they will produce plants with the largest number of female flowers, from which a greater yield can be expected later.

    Summer residents use different methods of seed planting, among which horizontal and vertical cultivation are the most popular.

    Horizontal seed sowing method

    A gardener who has chosen a horizontal method of sowing seeds will not have to install trellises. In well-watered holes dug in the garden every 40 cm, seeds are placed in the amount of 3-5 seeds with a depth of 2-4 cm. They are covered with soil, but not watered, covered with a film. It is allowed to remove the film in the daytime with its return to its place at night. This measure will ensure that the seeds are kept warm and will provoke their rapid hatching.

    The film is removed from the grown plants. After 10 - 12 days, cucumbers are thinned. Failure to perform this procedure may cause poor growth of lashes. Thus, the distance between cucumbers in open ground is 40 - 60 cm. Growing cucumber lashes should be able to freely spread along the ground. They will have to be evenly distributed on the bed without turning over. Accidental turning of the leaves of a plant can cause its slower development.

    Vertical seeding method

    When choosing a vertical method (on a trellis), the gardener needs to sow seed material in prepared furrows. The interval between furrows is 90 - 100 cm. The described technology for growing cucumbers in open ground, as a rule, involves laying seeds in furrows with a depth of up to 4 cm (15 cm is the recommended interval).

    After the emergence of shoots, leaves on plants, they are thinned out so that the distance between cucumber bushes is about 40 cm. The best formation of cucumbers in open ground is achieved by stretching the mesh attached to the supports.

    Caring for cucumbers in the open field

    The agricultural technique used by vegetable growers for growing cucumbers in open ground is extremely simple. The gardener will need to ensure that the temperature regime recommended for plants is maintained, watering, loosening, fertilizing, weeding, forming lashes in a timely manner, taking care of disease prevention, pest control.

    Compliance with the temperature regime

    In order for the planting to be successful, it is necessary to prevent hypothermia of the plants. Frost on the soil can cause the death of bushes. At temperatures lower than +10 ... +15 ° C, the growth of cucumbers is inhibited. Temperature indicators, optimal for cucumbers, are in the range: +25 ° С ... + 30 ° С, for this reason there is no need to rush with an early planting. Also, you should provide the plants with a temporary film shelter until the air warms up to a favorable temperature.

    Timely watering of cucumbers

    The fruits of cucumbers that have not received moisture will certainly have a bitter aftertaste. In the period preceding flowering, the plants are watered infrequently: once a week. 1 square meter of beds is watered with water in the amount of 3 - 6 liters. Flowering, fruiting bushes are watered, on average, once every 3 days. The amount of water during irrigation is up to 12 liters (per square meter of beds)

    The irrigation procedure is carried out in the evening. It would be preferable to use a watering can, since a strong jet of water pouring from a bucket can injure the lashes.

    Performing regular feedings

    Cucumbers planted on beds with fertile soil do not need frequent feeding. Plants grown on poor land are fed up to 5 times per season.

    The procedure for the first feeding is carried out after 14 days from the moment the seeds are hatched or the seedlings are planted. A solution of bird droppings or mullein (1 l of fertilizer / 10 l of water) is suitable. Gardeners with experience often practice the application of purchased complex fertilizers (1.5 tablespoons of the product / 1 bucket of water). Feeding is repeated every 3 weeks.

    Formation of plants by pinching

    Hybrid varieties do not need formation, since female flowers grow in sufficient quantities on their lashes. In other species, pinching of the main stem is performed, since it is on it that the largest number of male flowers appear. This procedure is performed after the formation of 4-5 sheets. Due to this, conditions are created for the growth of shoots of the second order, in which female flowers are formed, which will not be slow to affect the increase in yield.

    Easy hilling of cucumbers

    Carrying out light hilling eliminates the accumulation of moisture near the roots. This contributes to the formation of an additional root system, which subsequently has a beneficial effect on productivity.

    Loosening the soil and thinning plants

    The procedure for loosening the soil is carried out simultaneously with thinning, cultivation of plants. Loosening should be done with extreme caution to prevent damage to the roots.

    A gardener who can competently grow cucumbers in a country house in the open field will certainly be rewarded with a decent harvest. Fresh cucumbers will become an indispensable vitamin supplement at home; a variety of preparations for the winter can be prepared from these vegetables. Well, it is advisable to sell the surplus garden products in order to get a good financial increase in the family budget.

    Starting from May 20 until mid-June, you can sow cucumbers in open ground. However, for such a bed, covering material is still needed - in case of cold nights and to protect against excessive evaporation of moisture. We tell you how to prepare a garden bed, sow seeds and care for cucumbers.

    How to prepare a garden for cucumbers and sow seeds

    Ridges for cucumbers are prepared in advance in a warm and lit place, where pumpkin crops (cucumbers, zucchini, squash) were not cultivated in the previous year - to prevent infection by diseases and the appearance of pests.

    We dig a bed up to 70 cm wide to the depth of a spade bayonet. Then we scatter organic fertilizer, cultivated peat, compost, manure humus - at the rate of up to 5 kg per 1 m 2. Then we scatter the granular complex fertilizer "Agricola for pumpkin crops". One package (50 g) is enough for 3-4 m2. After that, we take an iron rake and level the soil, together with organic mineral fertilizers, to the depth of the rake teeth. The leveled bed is easily tamped with a board or plywood. After that, in the middle along the bed, we draw a groove 2-3 cm deep - we simply put a rail on the bed and press it, we get an even groove.

    Then we prepare a hot solution: dilute 2 capsules of Energen liquid stimulant in 10 liters of water at a temperature of 50 ° C, stir well and pour the groove from the kettle, not sparing the solution (it is better to spill the groove twice).

    Now we take the dry seeds of self-fertile hybrids of cucumbers and sow in the groove: the seed is 50-60 cm from the seed. Carefully, lightly press the seed with your finger to warm, moist soil and fill it with moistened loose soil from above - about one tablespoon of earth is enough for one seed. After that, you need to press the earth to the seed with your hand.

    The sown seeds are not watered from above, and the entire surface of the bed is dusted with ground hot black pepper (you can mix it with red). We do this so that the swollen seeds do not damage the ants, the shoots that appear do not eat the slugs and do not gnaw the mice - pepper scares them well.

    And the last procedure is to tighten the bed with a covering non-woven material, preferably a double layer.

    Caring for ground cucumbers: watering and top dressing

    When shoots appear, the covering material must be raised above the bed - with the help of arcs or wire stretched at a height of 1-1.5 m. Later, during the period when 2-3 true leaves appear, you can tie cucumber bushes to the same wire.

    If you do not cover the bed, then the cucumber leaves from the bright sun become very rough, hard and prickly, break, turn yellow, turn brown, and the ovaries turn yellow and dry out. The harvest is quickly fading away. If the cucumbers are self-pollinating (the Masha, German, Marinda varieties have proven themselves well), the covering material is not removed during the summer, with the exception of watering, fertilizing and harvesting.

    If the cucumbers are bee-pollinated (Crane, Lord, Farmer, Parker), the covering material is half-raised during flowering from a warm, calm side.

    In the summer, cucumbers are fed almost every 7 days, mainly with ready-made organic and mineral fertilizers.

    Root dressings begin to be done 3 weeks after germination and are carried out regularly during the summer period:

    1. For 10 liters of water, 2 capsules of Energen growth stimulator are diluted, the solution consumption is up to 3 liters per 1 m 2;
    2. For 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated fertilizer "Agricola-5 for cucumber". Consumption - up to 3-4 liters per 1 m 2;
    3. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Effekton-O", consumption - up to 4 liters per 1 m 2;
    4. For 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska and 2 tbsp. spoons of Agricola Vegeta liquid organic fertilizer, solution consumption - 5 liters per 1 m 2;
    5. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of granular complex "Agricola for cucumbers", spending up to 3 liters of solution per 1 m 2;
    6. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2-3 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Aqua" from yellowing of the leaves.

    Top dressing is carried out every 7-8 days, strictly monitoring watering. Water only with warm water at least 3 times a week.

    Before fruiting, the most important care activities are weeding and loosening. The last loosening is carried out when the plants have 4-5 true leaves and are still vertical. It is desirable to combine it with a little piling up (even better - add humus to the base of the plants).

    The lashes of cucumbers are left 1-1.2 m long, then pinch the top, pinch the side shoots at a length of 40-50 cm.

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