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Collapsible small homemade boat. Homemade folding boat

Probably every fishing enthusiast at least once thought about how to make a homemade boat. This is not an easy task, but it is still possible to make such a craft.

And it is not necessary to be an engineer, all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. And you will learn about how home-made plywood boats are made from our today's article.

Manufacturing difficulties

Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimum set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, a home-made inflatable boat (or plywood) is easily made in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that it takes a minimum of time to complete all these works, you can even make a boat in the open air. Well, in the event of a change in the weather, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic wrap.

What are good

Firstly, plywood is a lightweight, durable and fairly warm material. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogues, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (at the same time, inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing tackle). In store options, free space is sorely lacking.

Thirdly, being in a wooden boat, you do not feel discomfort at all.

Preparation of materials

The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most affordable and cheap material for such work. Yes, and it is very convenient to work with her.

Getting down to business

First of all, I would like to note that any work related to self-manufacturing any means (be it a tractor or something else, it doesn’t matter), must be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade boats in your hands. In some cases, drawings can be replaced with a sketch drawing.

So, how it is done To assemble the case, you will need to prepare dry boards 2.5 centimeters thick and a 6-mm plywood sheet. The width of the boards for the stern and sides should be 30.5 centimeters. This is the most optimal dimensions for fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and struts) are made from boards 2.5 centimeters wide. At the same time, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It must be borne in mind that the dimensions of all these elements must be exactly maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.

The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties and difficulties. This is due to their simple geometric shape.

In the course of work, pay special attention to fitting the mating surfaces and frilling the boat. All joining edges must be carefully fitted and have minimal gaps along the entire length. As fasteners, either tin-plated or galvanized self-tapping screws are used. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:

The bottom of the boat is made of plywood sheet 6 mm thick. But, since this part of the floating facility will be constantly exposed to water, for the watertightness of the boat, additionally treat the joints of the hull and the bottom with glue like "VIAM-B / 3" and fix it with screws around the entire perimeter. If there is no such tool ("VIAM-B / 3"), oil paint is quite suitable as an alternative. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it gives a durable and waterproof coating. It should be noted that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. External seams should be carefully glued with a cloth or percale using AK-20. In order not to fail the bottom of the boat, a rack grate is installed between the struts (the cross section of the rails is 5x2 centimeters).

The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean drying oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted another 2-3 times. In terms of its properties, liquid paint is better, it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, wide soft flute brushes are used.

Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality finish. However, we do not recommend using them for such boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less durable and unusable every year).

Important Points

If home-made motor boats are made, then a drawing of special mounts for an electric or gasoline engine is additionally made. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use conventional oars. They are often made from a 35mm birch plank. At the same time, a spike with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the paddle is primed and painted.

And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, average term service life of plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even their rubber competitors can boast of such survivability.

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, long, enough wide boards which are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choice of boards for work

Before you start production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After that, it is necessary to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other have no gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.


The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The beam is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to look for and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions from above and below so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to determine the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a spacer board the size of the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.

When the strut is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people for help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that there are no gaps and cracks when connecting the back wall and sides.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed on top of the struts. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

Align on the bottom of everything in one plane and process protective layer the entire surface. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom will be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find one that matches the size of the boat.


How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands

Put the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a margin of a few centimeters just in case, you can always trim the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water in.

When this process is completed, we proceed to the connection of the bottom with the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat on top of it. lower part. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move to the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the nose of the boat from external factors with the help of the same metal. Cut out a rectangle of tin according to the size of the boat.

Everywhere where wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start "wrapping" the nose with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.


Be sure to make a mount on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, as on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and review all the ideas of what you can make a boat out of. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the reverse side, since galvanized metal collapses over time upon contact with water. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and, as a result, the boat should be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. So the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

This will complete the boat. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with descriptions to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.

DIY boat photo

I have long wanted to have a folding in a small package light boat, in which it would be convenient to fish or travel, getting to the most distant and tempting corners of the Karelian Isthmus, in which you could sit together, and even put a couple of backpacks. From what I saw in stores, some did not suit me as purely single-seat (55-ruble “hunting”, for example), others turned out to be too heavy and not suitable for transportation in the same bus. As a rule, they were all cramped, uncomfortable for rowing, equipped with short oars, under which you could not go anywhere even in a light wind.

Finally, the idea of ​​building folding double boat , which met all my requirements, on its own. I made such a boat, and have been sailing on it for six years now. Tourists and fishing enthusiasts who met on the way asked more than once where I bought it? And most often they did not believe when I explained that it was not so difficult to make such a boat yourself. So I decided with the help of the collection to tell about it in more detail and make it available to everyone. (Or maybe some factories will also be interested in my boat?)

The length of the boat is 3 m, the overall width is about 1.1 m. With the total weight of the boat less than 20 kg, its carrying capacity is more than sufficient for going out together with all the equipment. Even with a load of 400 kg, you can safely continue swimming on it, although at the same time it sits in the water up to half the height of the side.

Under two-meter swing oars, the boat has a good speed - 8-9 km / h, it is easy to control; on it you can freely make large transitions. Seaworthiness restrictions are the same as for any other rowing "two". Once I had a chance to test my folding boat on a real sea ​​wave- in the White Sea. In fresh weather, on an 80-centimeter wave, we safely reached the place.

The boat is also convenient for fishing: it easily goes along the reeds, does not sail; stable enough - it does not roll over if you stand up to your full height or even one person sits on the edge of the side.

The boat is assembled in 15 minutes, the same amount of time is spent on disassembly. A fully folded boat turns into a package measuring 1X0.45X0.2 m, stacked on a lightweight three-wheeled folding cart (the wheels fold like an airplane). With such a package, I can get into any transport, it almost does not take up space at home.

Now about how to make such a boat. I collected it on winter evenings, slowly, spending two or three hours every day. Of course, now, having experience and not wasting time thinking, I could do it much faster.

Main material for 12 flat parts the hulls serve as trimmings of duralumin. I used duralumin 0.5 mm thick and I think that this thickness is quite enough; the use of a thicker sheet (0.8-1 mm) will make the boat heavier, although, of course, it will simplify the design and make it more reliable. To mark the mating edges of parts 3-9, 4-10, 6-12, 5-11, make a cardboard template (one template is enough, since the bow and stern of the boat are the same, symmetrical).

(conditionally shown are keel squares placed outside)


increase
1-12 - duralumin parts; 13-15 - keel square, duralumin 30X30; 16 - rubberized fabric; 17 - butt shorty 30X30; L = 200, 2 pieces; 18 - washer-lining in the area of ​​the bolt hole, δ = 1.

Obviously, this pairing could also be done in a straight line, but it would be better if it were a curve with a crescent (deflection arrow) of about 50 mm. If I had to make a second such boat, then I would try to make deadrise in the bow so that the oncoming wave would not hit, and I would make the stern wider and transom - there would be more space and I could hang the Salyut motor.

As waterproof flexible "hinges" connecting duralumin parts, 50- and 100-mm strips of any reliable rubberized fabric are used; I layered a 9mm drive belt into 3mm layers. The transverse wider strips are made whole, the longitudinal ones are split. At the intersection, the joint is made on B88 glue with a "burr" over a length of 25 mm. I spent a lot of time on these connections, but for all six years I didn’t have to use a repair kit (I always have pieces of a belt and glues with me).

a - fixing the side branches of the frame and transverse struts; b - fastening of stem crossbars; in - support cans.


1 - payol; 2, 3 - longitudinal stem spacers; 4, 5 - folding "fenders", duralumin tube Ø18 with a butt hinge lock and a key; 6 - central frame; 7 - nasal transverse strut; 8 - bow bank, plywood 1000X180X6; 9 - aft transverse strut; 10 - feed bank, plywood 1000X180X6; hang on three or four loops to the crossbar; 11, 12 - stem cross member, square 30X30 L = 100 mm; 13 - square 15X25, which rests on the ends of the bank; 6 pcs; 14 - frame position lock along the length of the boat, strap 20x40x2, 6 pcs.

The strips are superimposed on the duralumin from the outer side of the “plating”, glued to it with the same B88 glue and riveted with aluminum rivets d = 3 with a single-row seam with a step of 15 mm. At the extremities under the heads, riveted everywhere with inside sheathing, washers are enclosed. According to the keel fold in the DP (it was made only in order to reduce the dimensions of the package) on det. 1 from one side and on children. 4-6 on the other, three parts (13, 14, 15) of the keel square are riveted simultaneously with a strip of fabric. When unfolding the skin - assembling the boat, the ends of these parts are rigidly connected by two 200 mm butt plates 17 (sections of the square 30X30) on M8 bolts - two on the side of the joint.

The rigidity of the hull of the assembled boat, in addition to this outer keel, is provided (see the "set" diagram):
- plywood flooring, against the ends of which longitudinal stem spacers rest with their forks;
- central frame;
- "fender bars" along the upper edge of the side;
- nasal transverse strut;
- bow bank for the rower;
- aft transverse strut with a stern bank.

Plywood floorboard, assembled from two parts with a flexible hinge in the middle, is laid freely on the bottom. Along the length, its position is fixed by longitudinal struts fitted in place. In the middle part of the boat, a middle frame is placed on it.



1, 5 - plywood sheets δ=6; 2, 6 - rectangular cutouts - sockets for fixing the position of the lower end folding rack under the cross braces; 3 - duralumin socket (shoe) with a shaped groove for fixing the lower end of the rack under the bow can; the position of the can along the length of the boat is selected depending on the height of the rower; 4 - soft hinge (belt, rubber) for folding the floorboard.

The bottom branch of the frame is made of a dural tube, the side branches and struts are made of a 25X25 duralumin square. The connection of the branches on the cheekbones is hinged (rivet) for the possibility of folding. The struts are hinged at one end, and at the other - on a bolt with a wing nut. To attach the frame to the skin, one hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in the upper part of the side branch and a free shelf is cut off; the end of the frame is between the skin and the tube of the fender.

a - central frame; b - transverse strut; c - fastening of the "fender" and the ends of the side branches of the frames; g - longitudinal stem strut.


1 - dural square 25X25 or 30X30; 2 - M8 bolt; 3 - duralumin tube Ø18-20 mm;
4 - sheathing.

On the bow and stern transverse struts, vertical (side) squares and racks - pillars in the DP - are also hinged. When assembling the boat, the entire set is assembled into a rigid system with ten M8 bolts with wing nuts passed through the fender. Two of the same bolts are attached to the sheathing with stem crossbars pivotally attached to the ends of the longitudinal struts.

To make the fenders folding, the simplest loop locks were used. One edge of the loop bent along the tube is attached to one tube tightly, the second is hinged so that the other tube freely rotates around the axis. In the center of the loop there is a hole for the M8 bolt, which fastens the tube to the bead (the nut is superimposed with outside corps). This bolt must be welded to the hinge.



1 - rivet; 2 - hinge axis, around which one of the tubes folds up; 3 - M8 bolt for fastening to the skin.

The cans lie freely on top of the square supports riveted to the sides; to fix the bow can from shifting along the boat, grooves are made in the ends - cuts for the thickness of the shelf. A tubular piller with clamps is placed under the bow can, when the tube is turned, it enters the grooves of the upper (on the can) and lower (on the floorboard) shoes. You can put the same pillers under the stern can.

To one of the tubes of each fender (not closer than 100 mm from the break), a shackle is riveted.

Oars - composite. The oar itself is wooden (the spindle diameter is 35 mm), the blade is made of 1 mm thick duralumin with three stiffening ribs. In the middle of the length, the paddle is folded due to the sleeve connection; during assembly, a cap nut is screwed on to fix the connection.



1 - blade; 2 - brackets for attaching to the spindle; 3 - two parts of the spindle; 4, 5, 6 - details of the connection: bushings fixed at the ends of the spindle, and a freely put on union nut; 7 - oarlock.

L. K. Pressler, "KiYa", 1976

First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time, - a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but everything was somehow lacking. And then my "Ufimka" burst (it's time already, it's from 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole formed in the side in the form of the letter "G". Believe me, if I wanted to, I could also repair it, but imagine how much material I had at once: oarlocks, and excellent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. It remains for small - to purchase sheet plastic. I considered aluminum as an option, but after getting acquainted with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing happened with the sheet - about 1000 shek one sheet, but I need at least two. I picked up 3mm plastic with the main properties: do not crack under bending load and keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked exactly along the line of holes for rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a load capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. not sinking even when completely flooded, stern, keel with a keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in waves, easy to use with oars and with a low dead weight, with an option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a "chest of drawers" for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light racks for spinning and of course with a minimum time for installation and dismantling. I have gone through all of these options. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working order, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, height of the sides 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, aft insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now about how I had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldier mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), seats and feed are pasted over with the same strips, all tubes of the frame are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I have marked places on the bow and stern of the boat for attaching 2 floats, similar to those that the rescuers from the famous series have). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my "Ufimka", planted on glue with subsequent riveting. He carried out all the work in his apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the whole system easily hid behind the sofa.








I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for onboard plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for seats and oarlocks - trimmings, edging along the top of the side - trimming pipes for drip irrigation. The rest is hands. And how much it can cost for sale, I don’t know, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the lower seam, I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) into 3 seams, there is an option for connecting with a tube and side seams for oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, a wooden lattice 50x60cm between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom is enough. I also want to pull the umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large residue after cutting. So I went to the minimum.

PS. The cost of materials is indicated in NIS.

Production time, so, leisurely, - about a week. It took a lot of time to find the right plastic. After all, I am retired, so when my household members left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that I had rubber, oarlocks and oars from a broken boat, and the rest is a matter of technology. But first I made a 25 cm model of thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame plastic pipes and thin canvas. She was in a disassembled state no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. Here's what I want to do as well. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine in general.
As for the pattern, everything is simple there. The width of the canvas is 30 cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow is 1.5 meters. Step back from the nasal edge 1 meter and reduce with two arcs to the middle. The photo is clearly visible. But, I advise all the same to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape (adhesive tape). On the model, you can provide for all possible options, and it is much easier to correct errors. To be honest, I did not betray the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, felt, broke. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I kept the buoyancy in the flooded state due to additional side pads from the soldier's rug. Glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing: cleaning, cleaning and degreasing the surfaces to be glued, and obligatory curing for min. 15 minutes after applying the adhesive, before bonding. And I also consider it very important to glue the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like in factory boats.
About changes. I have already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity goes to the "bow" of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overflows, so the seat for the rower moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. As for the board height, I proceeded from the maximum cutting of a standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33 cm, will still be preferable, and stability will increase by increasing the overall width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
You don’t need to beat anyone with oars, when there are two in the boat, then the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one, but, if desired, the boat will withstand the second. Good luck!

Foldable boat under mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

Hunting and fishing are the favorite pastimes of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod in the early morning in the thickets of reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, use different ones - rubber, aluminum, PVC boats and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any boat, if you have money, but how to make a boat with your own hands? We will tell in our article.

plywood craft

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory moment in construction are the drawings of the boat. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to spend time and effort on reworking and fitting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. Transferring the drawings to paper, we will get full-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now you can “cut out” our product, and cut the blanks with an electric jigsaw. Having received all the cut parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect the supporting structural elements, the transom (aft section) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

To connect all parts, use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having fixed the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to reinforcing the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with the help of wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.

To obtain a suture material, epoxy resin and aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Further, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the whole structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and the bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs to be processed, it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, after drying, sand the surface. Then prime and paint.

Troubleshooting in PVC inflatable boat

If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then for sure there are often moments of leakage due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult, it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and better repair in the workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat in a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, everything must be redone when returning, since a patch glued hastily and without observing the technology will not last long.

If the puncture occurred while fishing or hunting, use only the defect elimination kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

  • Repair kit (included in the package of the craft);
  • Scissors;
  • roller;
  • Pencil;
  • Solvent that promotes degreasing;
  • Adhesive brush.

Cut out a round patch from the spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Flatten the area to be repaired on a flat surface, remove dirt and degrease with a solvent. Put the patch on the hole and circle with a pencil, smear both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and allow time to dry again. After 5 minutes, restoration can begin directly. Feel the surface of the patch with your finger, it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site, a hair dryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the sticky side, and carefully expelling all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then let it dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

Note!