How to grow bell peppers outdoors. Growing peppers outdoors How to grow large peppers outdoors

" Pepper

Landing on correct distance provides the plant with comfortable conditions for a good harvest. Beginning gardeners plant vegetables under the ruler, experienced gardeners - by eye. Pepper is a capricious culture, some recommendations for its cultivation should be followed. In this review, we will consider how to plant seedlings of this vegetable correctly and at what distance.

Pepper seedlings are a whimsical culture, so it is very important not to lose sight of important points. By the time of planting in the garden, the seedlings should have 8-10 leaves. It is allowed with the formed buds, when the pepper blooms, it cannot be transplanted. This is due to the fact that during the flowering period it will be difficult for the plant to take root in a new place.


Flowers may fall off, and seedlings will not be accepted. There are also time periods when you need to start planting, and when it's too late. These times may vary by region. For planting in open beds, the average temperature should be at the level of 15-18 ° C of heat.

It is necessary to wait for the threat of spring frosts to pass, otherwise, due to the low soil temperature, the plant will develop poorly. The likelihood of developing diseases will increase. Seedlings of Bulgarian and hot peppers are planted at the end of May. In order not to be afraid of night frosts, be sure to cover with a film or diaper.

It is better to be late than to rush, night frosts can ruin the entire future crop.

Is it possible to plant bitter and sweet peppers two pieces per hole

Gardeners often ask the question, how many peppers to plant in a hole? Planting 2-3 pieces is profitable; many gardeners practice this technique. Having tried this method once, they usually stop there. The paired method gives good yields. The single-hole planting method has many advantages:

  • of the two bushes more likely that one will take root if the second is damaged by a bear;
  • steam seedlings hold on tight, communicating with each other, in the process of growth, does not require a garter;
  • thus, Plants pollinate better people used to say "pepper loves to whisper";

Planting two or three peppers per hole is a great way to grow a rich crop of fruit, especially in hot climates.

Growing seedlings in pairs, you need to take into account the fact that growth in one root can give small fruits. If two different varieties grow side by side, mutually pollinating, hybrids can result. Both options have their advantages. Gardeners make decisions based on personal considerations.

Landing preparations

Any plant in the garden requires nutritious soil, it must contain a sufficient amount of humus. How to understand if home soil is suitable for the garden and where to plant? The earth from the garden must be taken in hand. If it is loose and crumbly, then the plant will be comfortable. Preparatory work provide for the following actions:

  1. Necessary loosen the soil well loot, remove grass and garbage.
  2. Mark the place of the future beds. Measure the desired distance between rows.
  3. Water abundantly trays with seedlings for the night before planting, so it will be easier to separate from containers.

On loamy and acidic soil good harvest will not grow, as the roots need moisture and air.

What to put in the hole

In order for the plant to be fed from the root, it is best to put a garden mixture inside each hole. It is prepared from ash, sawdust and organic fertilizer (dung, bird droppings). Manure is taken in autumn. It is necessary that he was lying down and froze several times. If you take fresh fertilizer, it can burn the seedlings. Inside the hole, it is enough to add one press of the garden mixture.


Some just bring under the root ammonium nitrate. Experienced gardeners to scare away the bear from the root, they lay broken eggs. In addition to the protective function, the shell nourishes the bushes with calcium. So that the roots do not rot, if the soil is not loose, peat or humus is poured.

Before adding the nutrient mixture to the well, it must be watered. If this is done earlier, useful substances can go deep underground.

Rules for planting seedlings in open ground

  1. Better plant out in the evening when the sun goes down. If this is done in the heat, the seedlings will quickly wither, and its recovery will be difficult.
  2. Well, if it rains during this period, then the soil will be wet. Vegetable culture will be easier to adapt.
  3. If the seedlings of their own cultivation, before planting, the trays must be taken outside in advance. Let her get used to the open atmosphere.
  4. Peppers should be well watered, then it will be easy to get them out of the pots.
  5. Carefully remove the bushes from the pots. Planting should be carried out together with the soil, in which she grew up. This will help the plant to more easily endure stress.
  6. If the seedlings are purchased, they need store in a cool place. The roots should be wrapped in a wet cloth.
  7. If desired roots can be treated with a growth enhancer. Stimulants will help to quickly take root and develop properly.

At what distance to plant

The distance between rows should be 50-60 cm for undersized varieties, and about 70 cm for voluminous pepper bushes. Between bushes 25-30 cm. If planted too densely, the plant will not get the right amount of light. It will be difficult to care for the bushes, it will be difficult to loosen the soil and fertilize.


At the right distance, planting will ensure a good harvest and ease of care.

Pepper conditions and care features

From the moment of planting, careful care is required, when the bushes take root, it will be easier. If the bear eats up the bushes, you need to fight it. In place of the missing bushes, plant new ones. Further care consists of the following points:

  • the soil should not dry out;
  • ensure regular loosening;
  • once every 2 weeks do top dressing;
  • water in the morning or in the evening;
  • plant loves the rain but not in the heat;
  • if their illnesses are noticed, need to be treated;
  • pick peppers from the bush carefully, so as not to damage it;
  • large bushes and with an abundance of harvest better tie up.

The basis of care and maintenance in the garden requires a certain skill that comes with age. studying useful advice even a novice gardener can grow this crop from seed and harvest a good harvest from the garden.

A good result depends on planting seedlings, if everything is done correctly, there will be no problems with growing.

If you do not take into account the importance of the distance between rows and plants, it is impossible to achieve rich harvests. Don't plant too close. Bushes planted densely will stretch upwards. Rarely planted peppers, both hot and sweet, are detrimental to drought. In everything, the distances for planting existing among gardeners must be observed.

Pepper is a heat-loving and moisture-loving crop. Growing pepper in open field a simple task, it is only important to adhere to some features. Sweet bell pepper enjoys great popularity among professional gardeners, it is successfully grown by summer residents. Grow peppers on your own suburban area under the power of everyone. How to grow sweet peppers and get the most out of the plant will be prompted by the advice of experienced breeders. By following their recommendations, the yield can be increased several times.

Preparing a plot for planting sweet pepper

Peppers thrive in open, sunny areas. But plants are afraid of the wind. Young plants should be planted in a place that is not shaded by trees, but is not in a draft. The perfect place is a site adjacent to the southern wall of a building. Planting peppers outdoors requires attention to soil composition, lighting, and protection from drafts.
The sweet guest grows well after cabbage and pumpkin crops, legumes and table root crops. Plant it the following year after these crops, and the pepper will surprise you with abundant fruiting.
Bulgarian pepper has not been grown for 3 years in the place where nightshade crops grew: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants. Peppers and nightshades suffer from the same soil-borne infections.
The soil at the site of planting pepper should be fertile, well-drained, perfectly retain moisture. The place for planting pepper is prepared in the autumn. After the previous cultivated plant is removed, it is necessary to clear the bed of weeds and dig it up. In the autumn, it is necessary to fertilize the soil, using 1 sq. m. area:

  • 50 g of superphosphate;
  • 80 g wood ash;
  • 10 kg of humus.

After a uniform distribution of the nutrient composition, the soil is dug up.

Pepper is not planted in the area where organic matter has just been introduced.

A Bulgarian guest does not need an abundance of fresh organic matter. Pepper is better to "underfeed" than "overfeed". The abundance of nitrogen combinations leads to the fact that the culture is actively growing and developing rapidly. Such a plant bears fruit much worse: pepper discards tied fruits, the size of vegetables decreases. Therefore, organic fertilizers are applied precisely in the autumn.
In the spring, before planting, the open area must again be loosened and fertilized. For 1 sq. m. for spring fertilizer is used:

  • 40 g of phosphorus;
  • 40 g potassium;
  • 20 g of nitrogen.

Drugs should be administered in early spring. Immediately before planting pepper seedlings, the site should again be dug up and leveled.

We plant seedlings

Bulgarian pepper is a thermophilic plant. Young specimens are planted in the soil after the threat of spring night frosts has passed. The time of planting seedlings depends on the regional location of the cottage. As a rule, peppers are planted starting in mid-May.
Seedlings of bell pepper for open ground must undergo a hardening process. To increase resistance to adverse factors, plants should be taken out in warm time on the Fresh air. Hardening of young individuals is carried out gradually, starting from a few minutes.

Pepper planting scheme 70x30 cm or 50x50 cm:

  • A few hours before planting, young plants are watered abundantly. The culture at the time of transplantation should be vigorous and healthy. Lack of moisture can have a detrimental effect on the survival process. Withered plants drop the first buds, delay their development. A weak and wilted plant during transplantation is a significant decrease in yield.
  • Young seedlings are planted in the afternoon. At night, the culture will not fight the sweltering heat and will throw all its strength into survival. In the event that it is cloudy outside, pepper seedlings can be planted at any time of the day.
  • Prepare holes in the soil for planting. Each hole should be watered abundantly: 2 liters of water per plant. Water for irrigation is best used at room temperature, heated in the sun.
  • Seedlings are transplanted with an earthen clod. Each plant should be separated from the container and planted in the prepared holes not too deep: the pepper is planted 3 cm deeper than it grew in room conditions. Pepper does not form adventitious roots well. But still their appearance contributes to a better nutrition of the culture.

The plant is not demanding on the composition of the earth. However, it grows best in loamy soil.

Watering plants outdoors

Peppers are very fond of water. But still, it should be watered carefully. Overwatering is just as detrimental to the plant as dryness. Immediately after transplanting bell pepper from containers into the soil, watering is not carried out. For the first time, the soil is moistened after 7 days. Peppers are watered at intervals of 3 days, 1 liter of warm water per 1 plant. Water the culture at the root. In extreme heat, peppers are watered daily.

10 days after planting the seedlings, plantings should be checked for survival. Dead sprouts are replaced with spare ones.
Established plants are watered very carefully. Bulgarian professional vegetable growers call such watering thin - frequent watering in small doses.
It is easy to determine when a plant needs water: if the bush has completely darkened, the pepper needs urgent watering. Wilting peppers can also indicate insufficient watering. Although the wilting of the plant in the afternoon does not indicate dryness of the soil.
At the time of the ripening of the crop, pepper is watered much more: 1 time for 6 days, 2-3 liters per plant.
During the hot period, pepper is watered in the morning or evening hours.

We loosen a bed with peppers

Pepper is very susceptible to the air permeability of the soil. It is impossible to allow the formation of a crust in any way. With the help of loosening, the roots of the plant receive more oxygen, and the plant itself develops more quickly. Loosening helps fight weeds.
At first, the pepper grows slowly. Within 15 days after planting, the culture develops root system, and the plant itself "sits" in place. Until the pepper starts to grow, it is not recommended to loosen the area.
The first loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 10 cm. The root system of bell pepper is placed superficially, so the soil should be loosened carefully, without injuring the delicate roots.

Subsequent loosening is carried out after precipitation, watering, before a crust has formed on the surface of the bed. As a rule, a bed under early varieties of bell pepper is loosened 4 times during the growing season. The place under the early varieties is loosened a couple of times during the growth period.
Peppers bloom very profusely. During the period of formation of peduncles, the culture needs hilling.

Loosen, weed, spud bell peppers should be very carefully. Its root system is in the top layer of soil. In addition, the plant itself is very fragile.

Proper feeding is the key to successful cultivation

During the growing season, pepper is fed no more than 4 times. The plant reacts painfully to the abundant content of organic matter and minerals in the soil, although it still needs nutrient soil for successful fruiting.
The first application of fertilizers is carried out at the time of the first loosening of the soil - 2 weeks after transplanting seedlings into open ground. At the first fertilizer, it is necessary to make a manure solution or chicken manure: 1 part of manure is diluted in 5 liters of warm water, 1 part of chicken manure is diluted in 15 liters of warm water. In cooked organics, you can add 1 tbsp. wood ash or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
First feed:

  • 10 liters of prepared organic solution;
  • 60 g of superfastate;
  • 20 g of potassium chloride;
  • 1 glass of wood ash.

Also, pepper can be fertilized without the use of organics:

  • 10 liters of settled warm water;
  • 20 g of ammonium nitrate;
  • 60 g of superphosphate;
  • 30 g of potassium chloride.

Fertilizer is applied under the root at the rate of 1 liter per 1 plant.
The second time bell pepper is fertilized with the same compounds during the formation of buds.
At the time of formation of the ovaries, the plant needs organic matter. That is why professional gardeners advise fertilizing the plant with organic fertilizers at the time of fruit formation.
The fourth time the plants are fed when the fruits are reduced in size. Very often this happens with early varieties closer to autumn.

Peppers do not tolerate chlorine. That is why potassium chloride is recommended to be replaced with wood ash. Any varieties for open ground should be fertilized especially carefully.

Spring night frosts are detrimental to pepper: protective measures

After planting bell pepper seedlings in an open garden bed, you need to be prepared for night frosts. They meet even at the beginning of summer. Many summer residents advise using so-called tents as protection - structures made of wooden planks, cardboard, plastic. Young seedlings are simply covered for the night. In the morning, the protection must be removed. Film portable shelters, which are advisable to use during a prolonged cold snap, have also proven themselves well.

Since ancient times, fumigation of plants has been a reliable protector from spring frosts. For such a process, special smoke piles are prepared that can produce very thick smoke.
Too low temperatures lead to the fall of small fruits and flowers. A temperature of 8-10 degrees can cause this unpleasant phenomenon. In addition, in the cold, plant growth stops, yields decrease.
Peppers in the open field are not recommended to be planted too early. It is susceptible to low temperatures.

Temperature indicators for successful cultivation

For successful development and high fruiting, sweet peppers need warmth. The plant feels best at a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees, it responds well to more high temperatures. At low rates, the development of the crop slows down, and the yield is significantly reduced. You can protect the plant from low temperature indicators if you cover it during the cold growing season.

Tall varieties need support

Varieties of sweet pepper, characterized by high growth, need to be tied up. Low-growing pepper varieties can not be tied up, but the presence of a support contributes to uniform fruit ripening, easier care and high-quality harvesting. To create a support, traditional wooden pegs are used. The plants themselves are protected by other cultures of high growth. The wind through such protection will not blow so much.
We form a bush - we increase the yield of a vegetable

The formation of the plant is very important for obtaining high yields. Many breeders believe that without a properly created form, it is impossible to get the maximum benefit from a plant.
Bush formation methods:

  • They create a skeleton of a bush: in the first fork, only the two strongest shoots are left. On the skeletal shoots, 2 branches are also left, one of which will grow vertically, and the second - directed to the outside. It is recommended to remove internal shoots. With proper shaping, a pepper bush can grow to a height of up to 1.2 m.
  • They create a skeleton of a bush: two shoots are tied up in a vertical direction. In each node, 1 external shoot is left. With this formation, it is necessary to plant plants at a distance of up to 50 cm, install supports and stretch horizontal twines. The bush is able to rise to a height of more than 2 m.

We attract insects for pollination

In order for the pepper to be pollinated by insects, and, accordingly, to give higher fruiting results, insects can be attracted. For such a process, during the flowering period, it is necessary to spray the plant with a sweet composition:

  • 100 g of granulated sugar;
  • 2 g of boric acid;
  • 1 liter of hot water.

In addition to artificial pollination, to attract honey insects, it is recommended to place containers with honey solution near the plantations: 1 tsp. honey dissolved in 1 tbsp. hot water.

Choosing a variety of pepper for growing in the garden

Currently, summer residents have the opportunity to use modern varieties of pepper that are resistant to low temperatures and are not susceptible to infections. Breeders have bred a great variety of varieties of sweet pepper, differing in the abundance of fruiting, color, size of the fruit.

"Funtik"

  • the height of an adult plant ranges from 50 to 70 cm;
  • fruits have a rich red tint;
  • ovary cone-shaped without a relief pattern;
  • fruit weight - 100-180 g;
  • medium-yielding variety: one bush is able to please 18 fruits;
  • resistant to infectious and fungal diseases.

"Czardas"

  • relatively tall plant: as a rule, the bush has a height of 60-70 cm, under certain climatic conditions its height can reach 1 m;
  • during the ripening period, the fruit changes its color from rich green to orange-red;
  • ovary cone-shaped with a sharp spout;
  • fruits are large, fleshy: weight can reach up to 250 g;
  • medium-yielding variety: during the fruiting period, one bush is able to “grow” up to 18 fruits;
  • fruits can be used for food both in green and ripe form.

"Barguzin"

  • sweet pepper can grow up to 70 cm;
  • fruit color from rich yellow to orange;
  • fruits of a cone-shaped elongated shape;
  • ovary weight - 150-200 g;
  • during the growing season it is possible to collect up to 18 fruits from one plant;
  • differs in unpretentiousness and ability to adapt to any compositions of the soil.

"Cornet"

  • tall plant: the height of the bush exceeds 1 m;
  • fruit color from dark brown to purple;
  • fruits have a cone-shaped relief shape;
  • large-fruited variety: one peppercorn can weigh up to 250 g;
  • at proper care from one plant you can collect up to 15 fruits;
  • bears fruit throughout the growing season.

"Chord"

  • it is demanding on lighting: with abundant light, the height of the plant can reach 1 m, but as a rule, the plant grows only 50-60 cm;
  • fruits have a bright red tint;
  • cone-shaped fruits;
  • the mass of the ovary depends on the light: with abundant light - 200 g, with a lack of light - 150 g;
  • medium-yielding variety: from 10 to 20 fruits can be harvested from one plant;
  • strong lighting is required for successful cultivation.

Pinocchio F1

  • undersized variety: height very rarely exceeds 50 cm;
  • fruits of a shade of a gradient, spotted ovaries can also be found;
  • conical shape of a vegetable with significant elongation;
  • peppercorns have a small weight of 80 to 120 g;
  • low-yielding variety: with proper care, 12-15 fruits can be harvested from one bush;
  • according to professional summer residents and cooks, this is the best variety for winter preparations.

"Cabin boy"

  • bush 50-60 cm high;
  • color from dark green to deep red: green fruits are used for preservation, red ones are eaten fresh;
  • the fruits are cone-shaped with a pointed tip;
  • the weight of one vegetable is 130-180 g;
  • high-yielding pepper: during the fruiting period it can please up to 30 medium-sized fruits;
  • resistant to diseases, unpretentious to care.

"Actor"

  • one of the tallest varieties of pepper: the height of the bush is from 1 to 1.5 m;
  • when ripe, the fruits have a scarlet hue;
  • ovaries cone-shaped, strongly elongated with a blunt tip;
  • the most fleshy pepper: the weight of the fruit is about 300 g;
  • medium-yielding plant: up to 14 vegetables can be harvested from a bush.

"Bagration"

  • bush height 80-100 cm;
  • producing a beautiful orange hue, sometimes with green or red spots;
  • ovaries are club-shaped and interesting relief;
  • ovaries of medium size - 150-200 g;
  • has a wonderful taste, refined aroma;
  • during the growth period, one bush gives up to 14 peppercorns;
  • high resistance to infections, fungi.

"Smile"

  • as a rule, an adult plant has a height of up to 80 cm, with good care its height can reach 1 m;
  • unripe fruits have a rich green color, when ripe, the vegetable acquires an orange color;
  • the fruits are cone-shaped with a blunt tip;
  • the variety is demanding for watering;
  • with sufficient moisture, the fruits can weigh up to 250 g;
  • yield value: up to 16 fruits from one bush;
  • the variety can be used for food at different stages of maturation.

"Nafanya"

  • an adult plant reaches a height of no more than 70 cm;
  • fruits have a burgundy color, purple ovaries are less common;
  • cone-shaped fruits with a sharp tip;
  • ovaries weighing 70-180 g;
  • medium-yielding variety: up to 15 fruits can be harvested from one bush;
  • differs in the duration of flowering, is able to bear fruit throughout the growing season.

"Tomboy"

  • the variety is demanding on lighting, on which the height of an adult plant depends: with abundant light, the bush can have a height of up to 1 m, with insufficient lighting - 50 cm;
  • fruits in the ripening period have a bright yellow or orange color;
  • ovaries cone-shaped rounded;
  • fruits of medium size weighing up to 150 g;
  • high-yielding variety: more than 25 fruits can ripen during the fruiting period;
  • as a rule, abundant fruiting leads to a decrease in the size of the ovaries.

"Bunny"

  • undemanding to growing conditions;
  • the height of an adult bush can exceed 1 m;
  • fruits are rich red, rarely burgundy;
  • differs upward directed fruit growth;
  • the mass of one vegetable can be from 160-250 g;
  • during the growing season it is able to please up to 15 ovaries from a bush;
  • fruits differ in juiciness and pleasant aroma.

The best varieties of sweet peppers for open ground will allow you to grow decent crops. Adhering to the recommendations of breeders, the growing process turns into an interesting activity, and the result will stun you with abundant fruiting.

Hybrid or variety: what to prefer

There is a huge amount of opinion regarding the cultivation of hybrids and varieties. If you are going to collect seeds from fruits, preference in cultivation should be given to the variety. Otherwise, a hybrid is used.
A variety is the result of breeders. Such peppers are adapted to certain growing conditions, capable of producing seeds similar to the mother plant. It is known for its reliable taste. But, unfortunately, the variety is more susceptible to all kinds of infections and is not always suitable for growing in a particular region. Pepper seeds can be collected and used as a seed.
A hybrid is a plant obtained by crossing different varieties. Requires a lot of attention. It is resistant to infections and fungi, capable of producing high yields. As a rule, it differs in insignificant growth, palatability fruits and their presentation. In order to sow a hybrid annually, you need to buy seed in a specialized store.
Pepper is an amazing vegetable that is very popular. It has excellent taste qualities, has a rich, refined aroma. A variety of dishes are prepared from the fruits of the culture, they are used fresh. Pepper is a plant that should be in every summer cottage.

How to grow bell pepper? Science is not complicated. It will only take a lot of time, patience and a little effort. You can't just take seeds and plant them in the ground. Bell peppers have a very long growing season. Therefore, he simply does not have time to mature.

In general, those who have been planting pepper on their site for more than a year know all the subtleties and nuances. We will list the most important ones. So that even beginners in agriculture can enjoy their harvest without mistakes and losses.

What is important for bell pepper? Yes, a lot. The main questions are always about:

  • seed selection
  • soil preparation for seedlings and planting in the ground
  • growing seedlings
  • landing dates
  • care and nourishment

Each item on the list matters. Let it just look impressive. In fact, at any of the stages it will not take much effort. It is much more important to strictly follow the recommendations and you will be happy and whole baskets of sweet peppers.

Which bell pepper seeds to choose

The most important thing in this business is the expiration date of the seeds. Do not believe manufacturers who write on bags about double or triple terms. Whatever the super-package is, the shelf life of bell pepper seeds is only 12 months. With further storage, germination decreases sharply. Therefore, buy only fresh.

Another important factor is maturation time. There are varieties with a vegetative period of up to 150 days. Commercials and to new year holidays don't wait for the harvest. Choose ultra-early varieties. They will appear in all their glory in 70-80 days.

Advice. Don't be afraid to try different varieties and experiment. Perhaps you will collect a whole collection of your favorite bell peppers.

How to Prepare the Soil for Sweet Peppers

For seedlings. Yes, yes, bell pepper is grown through seedlings. To do this, you must first prepare the ground. You can independently make a mixture of loose earth, sand and humus. The proportions are 2 to 1 to 1. Or purchase a special primer in the store.

Either way, it needs to be processed. First, the soil is exposed to frost. After 3 days, they are brought into heat, allowed to thaw. Then they are laid out in wide metal containers that will freely enter the oven. The earth is thoroughly shed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, then calcined in the oven at 110-120 ° C until completely dry.

Thus, you can get rid of almost all pest larvae and pathogenic microorganisms. Which, by the way, can sit quietly in store soil.

For landing in the ground. The land is prepared in the fall. Under digging, organic or mineral fertilizers are applied. It can be rotted manure, ripened compost, fatty humus. Of the mineral recommended potassium sulfate, superphosphate.

In the spring, 5 days before the proposed planting, the soil is cultivated to prevent late blight. Copper preparations (vitriol, Bordeaux mixture) or phytosporin are suitable for this.

So, the ground has been prepared. What will further actions? The correct order is:

  1. Bell pepper seeds are soaked for 20 minutes in a warm, strong solution of potassium permanganate. Then washed with clean water. This will disinfect them.
  2. Then the seeds are soaked for 12 hours in a biostimulant solution. If it is not at hand, then just in warm water. Just add a small piece of aloe leaf, cut lengthwise.
  3. After this procedure, the seeds are not washed. They are laid out on a damp cloth or toilet paper, covered with glass, a bag. And put in a warm dark place. Within about a day, seeds with normal germination should hatch. Now they are ready for sowing.

Sowing is quite easy. Prepared containers are filled with soil to a height of 3-4 cm. The surface is leveled and slightly crushed. The bent seeds are carefully laid out, then sprinkled on top with a layer of earth 1-1.5 cm thick. Moisturize a little, again put in darkness and heat.

After 6-7 days, a maximum of bell pepper sprouts together. From now on, he needs good lighting from 7 am to 9 pm, the temperature is not lower than + 22 ° C. As you can see, peppers love heat very much. It even needs to be watered only with warm water.

Sweet pepper does not like picking. He doesn't like being disturbed at all. Touched, transplanted, cut off. But some steps are needed. For example, picking must be carried out necessarily. Otherwise, the roots will become tangled during growth, and the plants themselves will be long, thin and weak. Do it when two real sheets are clearly visible. Cotyledons do not count.

Place bell peppers in cups two at a time. And more they try not to turn over until the very transplantation into open ground.

Watch the soil carefully. It should always be moderately moist, but not damp. If necessary, periodically spray the seedlings with a spray bottle. This water is enough for irrigation. Nutrient mixtures are also consumed by the leaves. The root system of sweet pepper is still too weak, but the leaves are quite capable of absorbing the right amount of top dressing.

Seedlings of sweet pepper must be gradually hardened. Otherwise, it will be painful and weak. To do this, gradually reduce the air temperature to 15-16°C. This can be achieved by taking the sprouts to a balcony or an unheated terrace for a while.

Advice. If you have a greenhouse or greenhouse, you can put cups there for a day. The nights in April are still cold, so bring the seedlings indoors.

When to plant bell pepper

The exact planting dates are always of interest to both beginners and experienced gardeners. Calculating the time of the first sowing is not at all difficult. The age of sweet pepper bushes when planted in open ground should be 76-79 days. In most regions, peppers are planted after the threat of a return frost. This time falls on the third decade of May. Count back and get the day when you need to sow the seeds.

If planting in a greenhouse is planned, then this usually happens in mid-April. Accordingly, the dates are pushed back. Some owners do not have the opportunity to sow sweet pepper seeds so early. Therefore, they do it at the usual time, but the plants dive immediately into a greenhouse or greenhouse.

By the way, classical scheme planting bell pepper is 40 by 40 cm.

Advice. There is a sign among the people. If any seedlings are planted on a certain day, then allegedly no subsequent frosts will harm them. That day is May 13th. The weather may still be chilly, but that shouldn't stop you. Try it on several bushes. According to reviews, the secret works 100%.

Standard care for planting sweet peppers includes:

  1. Weeding. Weeds strive to shade the peppers and take away the lion's share from them useful substances. Therefore, they are ruthlessly pulled out. You can put them right in the aisles, as mulch. Let them do good instead of harm.
  2. Loosening. The earthen crust is necessarily broken after each watering or rain. This contributes to better retention of moisture in the soil. Only this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. It is very capricious in pepper and is located close to the surface.
  3. Watering. Bulgarian pepper is very responsive to timely watering. Without water, it can grow, but it will be stuck, sickly, and will not produce a crop. At the same time, with excessive soil moisture, the roots may begin to rot. Therefore, it is watered only when there is a threat of drought. In a normal climate, water when the topsoil is dry at a depth of at least 10 cm.
  4. Formation. Most often, sweet peppers are allowed to grow in two stems. That is, pinch the top of the central stem. After that, pepper gives several stepchildren. Of these, the two most powerful are left, the rest are cut off. And some do not form bushes at all. And they also get good yields.
  5. Top dressing. Sweet peppers begin to be fed with organic matter only with the beginning of flowering. Up to this point, it is advisable to use mineral fertilizers. If you swap them, you will get powerful lush bushes, and there will be few flowers. It is very good to use green liquid fertilizer or bird droppings, diluted with water in proportions of 1 to 20. One application every 15 days is enough. Fertilize preferably at the root.
  6. Mulching. A very important aspect of pepper care. Allows you to retain moisture in the soil, which means that the need for frequent watering is eliminated. And it does not allow weeds to grow, and this facilitates all care in the complex. For best results, the mulch layer should be at least 10 cm. Otherwise, the whole point of the venture is reduced to zero.
  7. Getting rid of pests. As a rule, pepper bushes are very fond of many pests. And an infusion of garlic helps a little from them. Insecticides are much more effective. But, if the owner of the landings is categorically against the use of chemistry, then the network is full folk recipes. Perhaps there is the most suitable one. Among them, the most good feedback received tobacco infusions (medium handful per liter of boiling water, strain, dilute in 5 liters pure water) and a mixture based on birch tar (dilute a tablespoon in 10 liters of water).
  8. Disease prevention. Sweet pepper ailments are often caused by a lack of any elements or their overabundance. Therefore, you need to periodically carefully inspect the bushes for various suspicious spots or points. In any case, diseases are easier to prevent than to try to get rid of them later. There are recommendations to alternate spraying with a solution of hydrogen peroxide with a solution ammonia. Both liquids take 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of pure water.

As you can see from the list, caring for bell peppers is not at all difficult. However, it is regular.

A few tricks

  1. Now pharmacies do not sell potassium permanganate. And it is required for several periods of work with bell pepper. Feel free to follow her to any store that sells fertilizers and top dressings. It doesn't even need a prescription.
  2. Try to plant different varieties of sweet peppers as far apart as they are prone to cross-pollination. And even more so, you can not place them next to hot peppers.
  3. Always when picking or transplanting peppers, they try to minimize damage to the earthen ball with the root system. So the plants get sick less and take root better.
  4. It is generally accepted that young sweet pepper plants should not be buried. This is wrong. Numerous experiments by gardeners have proven that additional roots develop on buried peppers. Therefore, you can safely plant peppers by dropping them to the cotyledon leaves.
  5. For better pollination of flowers, sweet water is used. For 300 ml of pure water take 1 tbsp. l. sugar, mix thoroughly and spray future ovaries. Bees are happy to fly to such flowers.

How to grow bell pepper? After reading this article, you can safely answer this question - very simply!

Video: 10 mistakes when growing sweet peppers

Planting pepper in open ground is the most important step towards a rich harvest of this crop. Mistakes made by a beginner at this stage can nullify all efforts to grow high-quality seedlings. In the article, I will tell you in detail and in simple words how to plant peppers in open ground with minimal effort on your part and as comfortable as possible for the plants themselves.

Preparing pepper seedlings for planting in open ground

When grown on a windowsill, pepper plants need additional lighting.

About a week before the planned planting, pepper seedlings begin to “walk”, taking the plants to fresh air. At first, walks should be short, 15-20 minutes each, but each time their duration is increased by 50%. At a temperature not lower than +14 ... 15 degrees, the plants will harden perfectly and better transfer the transplant to an open garden bed.

How to choose a place for pepper

If there is no space in the garden, then peppers can also be grown in bags filled with nutrient soil.

A bed for pepper is placed on a site with moderately fertile, light soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. This culture does not grow well in places with close occurrence ground water- then it is better for her to take a high warm bed. Read about how to build such a garden bed.

Pepper just hates the shadow. Therefore, plants must be under the sun all day, otherwise their development will slow down and the harvest will be very meager.

Another important condition when choosing a site for this crop is that it must be reliably protected from the wind.

To do this, at some distance from the garden, you can make a partition or arrange a wattle fence from any available materials. Alternatively, around the plantings, at a distance of 70-100 centimeters, you can arrange 1-2 rows of rock plants - beans, corn, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, chard. Plants are a must sown or planted seedlings in advance, 2-3 weeks before planting the pepper itself. If you plan to keep the bed under the film for the whole season, then you do not need to build any additional protective barriers.

Legumes, onions, beans, pumpkins, squash, squash, root vegetables and cabbage- here is the list the most successful predecessors for pepper. I do not recommend planting pepper after any nightshade, for example, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, and also after any kind of pepper. You need to wait at least 3-4 years before placing pepper in such a place.

Preparing a bed for pepper

The first (crown) flower of a pepper seedling is best removed. This will significantly increase the branching of the bush and productivity.

Any soil can be improved and made suitable for planting peppers by adding various organic materials to it:

  • in the case of medium loamy soil- this is peat and well-decomposed manure, one bucket per square meter beds, as well as half a bucket of old sawdust per square meter;
  • in the case of clay, heavy soil- this is peat or well-decomposed manure at the rate of a bucket per square meter plus coarse sand (or semi-rotted sawdust) at the rate of 1 bucket per square meter;
  • in the case of peat soil- this is humus and sod (or clay) earth, one bucket of each type of soil per square meter;
  • in the case of sandy soil- these are 2 buckets of humus (garden compost), 2 buckets of peat and clay soil and 1 bucket of rotted sawdust;
  • in all cases, it is recommended to put one tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate into the soil (this is done in the fall), as well as one teaspoon of urea or nitroammophoska (in spring) per square meter of beds, for convenience, “mineral water” is mixed with organic matter;
  • if you don’t use mineral fertilizers at all on the site, then just add wood ash to the soil at the rate of 1 glass per square meter of beds (this is best done in spring)

To determine the mechanical composition of the soil in your area, conduct a simple test. You can find a description of it in .

Consider the following when preparing the soil for this crop:

  • it is desirable to fertilize the soil for pepper in the fall, but it is permissible to postpone this work until spring;
  • if you have light loam on the site, then you only need to fill the soil in the garden under the pepper with compost or humus at the rate of 1 bucket per square meter of its area;
  • a bed for this crop cannot be filled with fresh manure, otherwise the plants will give a lot of greenery, but few fruits.

Planting peppers in the garden

Spring soil preparation for planting peppers in full swing)

In central Russia, pepper is planted in open ground not earlier than the last decade of May, and in case of a protracted spring, it is better to transfer this work to the beginning of summer.

By the time of planting, pepper seedlings should have 7-9 well-developed leaves, as well as short, strong internodes and several well-formed flowers. Early ripe varieties are allowed to be planted even with an ovary.

On the eve of landing in a permanent place, hardened pepper bushes are watered abundantly so that they are not sluggish. Otherwise, they will lag behind in growth and throw off the first buds.

Planting sweet pepper in open ground is carried out at 9 simple steps:

  1. The soil in the garden carefully loosen and align. When growing pepper in two rows, its width should be 90-100 meters, and with a three-row planting, the width of the bed is increased to 120 centimeters. It is also highly desirable that the bed be extended in the direction from north to south.
  2. Between the rows leave a distance of 50 to 60 centimeters, between individual landing pits - 40-45 centimeters. The pits are best placed in a checkerboard pattern. More dense fit scheme 20-25 x 50 centimeters leads to a decrease in the size of the fruit, but increases their number.
  3. The wells are filled with 200-300 grams of biohumus (humus, compost), 1 tablespoon of ash and the same amount of crushed eggshell are added, and 1-2 liters of a light pink solution of potassium permanganate are poured in.
  4. Arcs are installed above the bed, and so that the film does not sag, twine is pulled between the arcs on both sides.
  5. Planting seedlings is carried out in the afternoon or in cloudy weather at any time of the day.
  6. Pepper bushes are planted at the same level at which they grew in pots (allowable depth - no more than two centimeters). At the same time, tall varieties are placed in the central row, and undersized and dwarf ones - along the edge of the garden.
  7. When planting, pegs 50-60 centimeters high are attached to each plant for further garter. After that, the roots of the plants fall asleep and squeeze their hands around the stems for better contact with soil.
  8. The soil in the garden with planted seedlings is mulched with peat or dry soil. This is optional, but highly recommended.
  9. Throw a film on the arcs. If the weather is cool, then the landings are additionally insulated with lutrasil or any other non-woven fabric.

You can reduce the need for watering, weeding and loosening by planting pepper seedlings directly in a black film or non-woven covering material. To do this, the soil in the garden is fertilized, moistened, mulched with peat and covered with a film or non-woven fabric. Pepper plants are planted according to the scheme 40-45 x 50-60 centimeters in cross-shaped holes made in the selected material.

Pepper care after planting in the ground

This pepper clearly does not want to be eaten))).

Peppers take root slowly in a new place, so the plants need to be helped to acclimatize. To do this, the first one and a half - two weeks they are watered every 2-3 days under the spine, using 1-2 liters per plant.

During dry and hot periods, watering is carried out on a daily basis.. During this period, the soil between the rows must be loosened, but with great care, to a depth of no more than 3-5 centimeters. This avoids any damage to the roots of plants until they finally take root.

Until the temperature at night exceeds +16 degrees, the peppers should be under a film cover. In the daytime, if the air under the film warms up above +28 degrees, it is slightly opened or even completely removed.

But if, according to the forecast, return frosts are expected - this sometimes happens in early June - the soil in the garden with planted seedlings should be shed with water at a temperature of + 35-38 degrees. Then, in addition to the film, throw a dense non-woven fabric on top and your plants will be reliably protected from the cold.

One of the most common problems that a novice gardener faces when growing peppers is when the plants begin to shed their ovaries en masse. The main reason for this trouble is flaws in care and weather surprises, which are especially dangerous in an open garden. To more fully understand what exactly caused the fall of the ovary in your situation, I suggest reading.

For you we have taken short video, in which they shared their experience in growing pepper seedlings and planting them in open ground.

Getting a decent crop of pepper without a greenhouse is not difficult if you use the right agricultural technology and successfully select suitable varieties for growing sweet peppers in the open field.

Choosing the Best Sweet Peppers for Outdoors

First of all, it is necessary to choose varieties for open ground that are optimal for a given region. There are simple varieties and hybrid varieties. Hybrids are good for their disease resistance, predictable high yield and attractive fruit appearance, but you can’t collect seeds from a hybrid - anything can grow.

There are salad varieties that are used mainly for conservation and general purpose. There are varieties with good keeping quality, which are stored for a long time.

In areas with unpredictable summers, it is preferable to choose either early or medium early varieties for cultivation. From planting to the first fruits, they take 100-120 days.

The recognized favorite variety "Swallow" - refers to the middle early, reaches a height of up to 62 cm, fruiting begins in 116-122 days from the appearance of the first shoots. The fruits are thick-walled and gain weight up to 100 g.

"Orange miracle" - medium early, grows up to 90 cm high. The fruits are quite large weighing up to 250 g. The variety is quite resistant to certain types of wilt and tobacco mosaic.

“Bogatyr” is a good mid-season variety, up to 75 cm high. As in “Swallow”, the fruits have a fairly thick wall and gain weight up to 200 g. The ripening period is 125-135 days.

"Cardinal" - early, up to 100 cm high. The fruits have a purple color and thick walls, weight up to 280 g. The maturity period is 95 days. It has good resistance to tobacco mosaic.

"Barguzin" - Refers to mid-early varieties. The ripening period is about 110-120 days, reaches a height of up to 80 cm. Fruits yellow color with a thick wall up to 5 mm, weighing up to 200 g.

"Merchant" - refers to early ripening with a ripening period of 95-110 days and a height of up to 90 cm. Fruits are red in color with a thick wall, weighing up to 110 g.

Also excellent varieties: Lumina, Ivanhoe, Health, Bugay, Tusk.

Representatives of hybrid varieties:

"Latino F1" is a mid-early representative, reaching a height of 100 cm with large red fruits resembling the shape of a cube and reaching a mass of 200 g.

"Atlantic F1" - early, bush height up to 1 m, Very large fleshy fruits weighing up to 400 g. Resistant to viral diseases.

"Star of the East F1" - medium early variety. Ripens on average 110-130 days. Reaches a height of 70 cm. The fruits ripen in a rich red color weighing up to 320 g.

Preparing sweet pepper seeds for planting seedlings

For successful cultivation of sweet pepper in the open field, it is necessary to carefully prepare the seeds. Peppers need more than 100 days from germination to flowering.

Therefore, it is better to sow seeds in the first decade of February, especially if you want to grow sweet peppers in open ground. If planted in early March, then artificial illumination of seedlings will be needed.

Preparing sweet pepper seeds for planting includes several steps:

  • germination test;
  • calibration;
  • disinfection;
  • soaking seeds in nutrients;
  • hardening;
  • germination.

Germination test

A month before sowing seeds, it is useful to check them for germination. They take 8-10 seeds from a bag, and lower them in a cloth in warm water for a day.

Then they take it out of the water, put it on a saucer, put the saucer in a plastic bag and put it in heat, you can under the battery. The fabric should always be damp. If at least half of the seeds pecked, then the seeds are good.

Note! This applies to old or own seeds.

Seed calibration

First, damaged and deformed seeds are selected, then they are dipped in a 5% salt solution, shaken, left for 5 minutes and the floating seeds are discarded, the rest are washed.

Attention! Seeds from the 3rd year of storage are not subjected to calibration in salt water.

Disinfection

In a strong solution of potassium permanganate, the seeds are kept for 20 minutes, then washed under running water.

This operation disinfects the outer shell, for deeper processing, bacterial agents are used, often of a specific action. Good results are obtained by treatments with Trichofit and Fitosporin preparations. Seeds are kept in solutions of preparations according to the instructions.

Attention! The Trichophyt solution must be kept in the dark.

Soaking in nutrient solution

For solutions, growth stimulants "Epin-Extra", "Zircon", wood ash, "Ideal", sodium humate and others are used.

If disinfection was carried out with bacterial preparations, then they often already contain growth stimulants, as in Fitosporin-paste, and this is enough.

Hardening and germination of sweet pepper seeds

Seeds are placed in an envelope made of damp cloth, then in a polyethylene bag (preferably with perforation) and placed in a refrigerator for 3 days at a temperature of 0 °C to + 2 °C. But top scores give an alternation of cold and heat: a day - cold, a day - room temperature and again cold. The fabric must not dry out.

Then the package is placed in heat (near the battery) and as soon as a white root appears, they are immediately sown. Important! Dragee, encrusted and precision seeds are immediately planted in sowing boxes.

Growing sweet pepper seedlings and care

For sowing, containers with a height of about 12 cm are used, tetra packs of milk or juice, or a cake lid are suitable.

Soil preparation for seedlings

The soil mixture should be loose, fertile, well breathable, not sour. Suitable purchased soil for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. You can buy Violet soil and add humus there.

The container for sowing is filled with earth, two centimeters falling short of the top. The earth is leveled, pressed a little, rows are drawn every 5 cm, watered with warm water. The seeds are laid out in rows with an interval of 2 cm, sprinkled with earth (2-3 cm) and lightly pressed down with your fingers. Cover the boxes with foil, then put in a warm dark place.

After 2 days, spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle. On about the 5th day, shoots appear, immediately rearrange the container with seedlings on a light windowsill.

Optimum temperature environment up to 16 ° C, support it for about a week. Then the daytime temperature is desirable up to 25 C°, at night - up to 18 C°.

Water gently with warm water as needed. A one-time feeding with calcium nitrate is desirable (one tablespoon per 5 liters of water). When real leaves appear, you can pick.

Important! Weak, deformed sprouts must be removed.

Picking pepper seedlings

Seedlings should be watered a couple of hours before picking. Pots for seedlings can be cropped juice bags, milk cups, and more. Holes at the bottom of the pot must be mandatory, it is good to put a layer of drainage.

The optimal dimensions are 9 x 9 cm. The cups are filled with soil, spilled with water with "Ideal" (1 teaspoon of "Ideal" per 3 liters of water), make a hole and plant peppers, falling asleep with dry soil to the cotyledon leaves.

Important! After picking, water on the 5th or 6th day.

The pots are placed on a lighted window sill, periodically turning so that the plant is evenly lit. Water only with warm water, as needed, usually once a week, without flooding the plant. The soil at the base of the stem should be loose, "breathing".

How to feed seedlings?

Top dressing is usually combined with watering (first watering, then top dressing) alternating root and top dressing on the leaves. Top dressing can be done with mixtures of mullein and mineral fertilizers, wood ash, but in urban conditions it is more convenient and safer to use ready-made liquid fertilizers "Ideal", "Good Force", "Zircon" (growth stimulator), "Fields Russians, Bioperegnoy" and others. It is good to carry out the treatment with bacterial preparations. The best daytime temperature for seedlings is 25 C °, at night - 20 C °.

pinching seedlings

Pinching is carried out above 5-7 of this leaf so that the plant branches. Just at this time, the internodes of the plant begin to stain. A day after pinching the plants, it is good to spray with a growth stimulator. Pinching stimulates the growth of new shoots - stepchildren, no more than 5 upper stepchildren are left on the bush.

Hardening seedlings of sweet pepper

Seedling hardening necessary condition for the successful cultivation of sweet peppers in open ground. With the onset of warm weather from + 15 ° C, you can take the seedlings to the balcony, first for several hours, then for the whole day, and then do not remove it at night at + 15 ° C.

Important! When hardening in top dressing, it is necessary to reduce the nitrogen content.

Hardening is useful not only by "accustoming" the plant to more stringent conditions, it stimulates the growth of a powerful root system and prevents the seedlings from stretching out.

Site preparation for planting

Pepper is a heat-loving, wind-pollinated plant, prefers lighted places and normal humidity. Therefore, the site for landing should be chosen open, sunny and preferably protected from the wind.

To protect from the wind, it is proposed to place tall crops nearby, but the illumination of plants suffers. It is more reliable to put tunnel film shelters - they will save you from strong winds, and from hail, and from overheating, and from cold. You can also put wattle woven from rods, but a tunnel greenhouse is more functional.

It is not recommended to plant pepper after potatoes, physalis, tobacco, tomatoes and eggplants. The soil can be infested with common pests and diseases of this family. It is reasonable to plant after legumes, melons and green crops.

Soil preparation for planting

Peppers have a strong root system and for them it is necessary to carry out deep digging, no less than a spade bayonet. The soil should be neutral, fertile, loose and finely cloddy, well retaining moisture.

Fresh manure should not be applied, but compost, rotted manure and sawdust are excellent. If the soil is too light, peat must be added, if it is too heavy, coarse-grained sand.

When planting, fertilizers of the NPK complex are applied to the soil in a ratio of 1:2:3. You can use calcium nitrate. But then you will have to exclude phosphate fertilizers when digging, phosphorus and sulfur are not compatible with calcium nitrate.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Peppers are planted on ridges after spring frosts. From the second decade of May to mid-June, depending on the climatic zone.

First you need to dig holes, spill them with water, then spill them with a solution of a bacterial preparation, fill them with water again, place the plant with an earthen clod in the hole and fill it with dry soil, squeeze it and sprinkle it with earth or mulch.

Watering is not necessary. For compact bushes, the intervals between plants are 35 cm, between rows - 50 cm. high grades they are planted in one row after 50-60 cm between the bushes, and in several rows after 60-80 cm. When planting, you must immediately install a peg for tying the stem.

Note! The use of black or colored mulching materials allows you to retain moisture, prevents weeds from growing, and eliminates the need for loosening.

Features of growing sweet pepper in central Russia and the Moscow region

How south region, the earlier the seedlings are planted in the ground, the earlier the sowing is carried out with seeds. In the first decade of February, tall varieties begin to be sown, in the second decade - mid-season, in the third decade of February and in the first days of March - early-ripening, compact.

Seedlings are planted in the ground from mid-May to mid-June, always covering the beds with a film. The sowing scheme is chosen depending on the size of the bush.

The best varieties of sweet pepper for the Moscow region and Middle lane Russia: Vesuvius, Emelya, Annushka, Montero, Selvia, Carlson, Golden Miracle and others.

Features of growing sweet pepper in Ukraine

In Ukraine, over most of the territory, the climate is temperate continental, only in the south it is closer to subtropical. The soils of Ukraine are fertile and rich in black earth. For gardeners and gardeners, this is a fertile land. The main problems of some regions of Ukraine are extremely hot summers (up to +35 C°), dry winds and rare rains.

Peppers in Ukraine are also grown in seedlings, although tomatoes are often sown directly into the ground. In peppers, the growing season and fruit ripening are much longer.

Features of agricultural techniques are protection from strong winds, from sunburn, from pests (their number is higher than in the northern regions), from drying out of the soil.

Pepper plantings in Ukraine are significant and the use of drip irrigation and mulching with protective soil covers saves time and effort.

However, the root system at the same time is located closer to the surface and without protection from the wind, the pepper bushes are pulled out of the ground.

Mulch covers should be two-tone: black on the bottom, light on top to reflect the sun's rays and reduce the drying of the soil.

The planting pattern is usual, the gap between the bushes is 50 cm, between the rows - 60 cm. The bed is covered with a film to speed up the adaptation period.

Late-ripening varieties are sown 75 days before planting on the ridges (in mid-February), mid-ripening - 65 days, early-ripening - 60 days.

Features of growing sweet pepper in the Urals

Due to significant climatic and soil differences in the Southern, Northern and Middle Urals, gardeners use different agricultural techniques when growing horticultural crops, including pepper.

In the north of the Urals, summer is short, the average temperature is +8 С°, strong winds and fogs. The soil there is rocky, so you have to resort to certain techniques to grow a crop.

Fences, buildings, tall plants, including shrubs, are used to protect against winds. For planting next year, warm beds are prepared in the fall. In the northern Urals, pepper is grown exclusively in a greenhouse.

On the southern Urals the average summer temperature is +22 С°. A few days before planting, the bed is covered with black material to warm the earth. Planted according to the usual scheme, depending on the size of the bush.

They are planted in a permanent place at the end of May, mid-June with obligatory cover with a film on the arcs.

The best varieties of sweet pepper for the Urals: Kolobok, Firstborn of Siberia, Siberian, Barguzin, Topolin, Montero, Merchant, Red and yellow bulls, Bogatyr.

Growing and caring for sweet peppers

Care for peppers consists in timely weeding, loosening, watering, feeding and shaping a bush.

Important! The first flowers must be removed, in the future it is necessary to remove all deformed flowers and ovaries.

Pollination

Pepper is a wind-pollinated plant, for guaranteed pollination, you need to shake the bush a little. But cross-pollination of different varieties is possible. If on garden plot bitter pepper grows, then in case of pollination, the fruits of sweet pepper will become bitter.

High temperatures, especially at night, have a depressing effect on pollen activity. Covering materials of ultrasil and spunbond will protect plants from overheating and neutralize the effect of temperature differences.

Pasynkovanie sweet pepper

The plant must be formed by stepping. The lower stepchildren are usually cut off, the only exception is very hot weather. Then the lower shoots shade the soil. The bush should not be thickened, so the extra shoots are plucked out. Plants are tied to pegs as the stem and shoots grow.

Weeding and loosening

Even when forming ridges, all weeds must be removed from the soil, so only seed weeds brought by wind, birds or with compost can germinate.

Timely loosening will destroy them and destroy the soil crust. It is necessary to loosen so as not to damage the roots of plants, especially when using drip irrigation.

Irrigation of sweet pepper

Watering can be carried out in the usual way - under the root, sprinkling and drip. You can only water with warm water. Before flowering, it is watered by sprinkling once a week at the rate of one watering can (10 l) of water per 1 sq.m. During flowering and fruiting, water under the root 2 times a week. Of course, the weather makes its own adjustments.

Drip irrigation is very convenient and promising. Water losses are reduced, no physical effort is required, no earthen crust is formed through which soil moisture evaporates.

What to feed the pepper?

A week after planting, you can carry out the first top dressing with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1:1:1. Such top dressing should be carried out every week after watering. You can use ready-made mineral mixtures and fertilizer solutions.

"Green manure" is widely used when nettles, dandelion leaves, wood lice are put into a barrel, poured with water and left for a week. It is better to close the barrel tightly with a film and tie it - it will smell very bad. A week later, a glass of ash is added to the barrel and the plants are watered.

It is also necessary to make microelements and foliar top dressing. During fruiting, "Ideal", "Senior Tomato" and other fertilizers are perfect. After the first fruiting, top dressing is carried out with an NPK complex in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.5.

Important! If signs of disease or pests are noticed on one bush, then it is necessary to process all plantings of pepper.

Treatment against diseases and pests of sweet pepper

It is necessary to treat the soil and leaves with bacterial preparations, such as trichodermin, phytosporin and trichophyte. They are quite effective in preventing diseases such as fusarium, late blight, tracheomycosis, sclerotinia, gray rot, black leg and a number of other infections.

These drugs have hazard class 4, that is, low-hazard substances. Potassium permanganate, for example, has a hazard class 2.

Blossom rot is a very annoying disease. It develops due to a lack of calcium, an excess of nitrogen, fluctuations in air humidity and uneven irrigation. It is recommended to carry out treatment during the growth period with 0.3-0.4% calcium chloride or lime milk. Feeding with calcium nitrate is also necessary.

The main pests of this crop are scoops, spider mite and aphids. Against the scoop use:

  • bacterial preparations - lepidocid, bitoxibacillin, enterobacterin (0.2), dendrobacillin ;
  • chemical - karbofos and chlorophos;
  • folk remedies- infusions of hot pepper, burdock, wormwood, potato tops;
  • agrotechnical methods - thorough digging of the soil, cleaning of plant residues in the fall;
  • traps - containers with kvass.

The spider mite does not tolerate moisture, so sprinkling will be a good prevention, by the way, against aphids too. Infusions of plants are also used - dandelion, garlic, onion peel.

To prevent the appearance of aphids, you need to get rid of earth ants. Ants cannot stand table salt. Chemical and folk remedies do a good job with the first generation of aphids, the rest of the generations are more tenacious.

Infusions of garlic, horseradish, celandine, tobacco with laundry soap, if carefully processed, can destroy aphid colonies.

Collection and proper storage of sweet pepper crops

Fruits for quick consumption are usually harvested at the stage of biological maturity, when the shape, size and color correspond to the variety. The exception is when the collection is carried out to unload the plants, and they continued to bear fruit effectively.

For storage, it is correct to collect peppers in the phase of technical or technical-biological maturity, when the size and color do not yet correspond to varietal ripeness.

Note! Fruit picking should be carried out in dry weather and preferably in the morning.

Peppers, with optimal agricultural technology, begin to be harvested as early as mid-July, but mass collection is carried out in August and September before the start of autumn frosts.

The fruits are cut with scissors, along with the stalk. The branches are very fragile and brittle, so proceed with caution.

Fruits are selected for storage without damage, sorted by ripeness, cut off the stem, leaving only a small tip.

Fruits with thick pulp are placed in special plastic bags with a membrane for storing vegetables and tightly tied. Due to the carbon dioxide environment, vegetables are stored for a relatively long time, and the membrane will not allow moisture vapor to remain in the bag.

Store peppers in cellars, cellars, refrigerators in boxes, bags, baskets. Each fruit is preferably wrapped in paper. The optimum storage temperature is 8-10 C° with a humidity of 80-90%. With this storage, the fruits retain their freshness for up to two months.

Peppers are an excellent vegetable crop. It is not difficult to grow it in open ground, although the weather factor is very important. If you carefully and methodically perform the necessary actions, then you can get a good harvest even in a cold and damp summer. And then we highly recommend viewing interesting video with tips from experts on growing sweet peppers: