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Hyacinth in the open field care in the spring. Planting hyacinths in open ground and caring for them

Hyacinths have long gained wide popularity among gardeners in Russia due to their rich color palette and fragrant buds. These plants are widely grown both at home and in garden beds. With the right knowledge, a hyacinth bulb can be reused many times to produce new flower crops. When planting hyacinths, the main attention should be paid to the bulbs, since erroneously selected planting material often leads to premature death of the plant. How to plant and care for hyacinths in open ground rightly tell next.

It is advisable to decide in advance on the site where you are going to plant hyacinths. When searching for such a site, you need to take into account several important details that affect the germination of the plant:

Soil preparation

Prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance - no later than two months before the bulbs are immersed in the ground. Such terms are explained by the fact that after digging the soil will take time to settle. If you are late with digging the soil, then it is likely that it will begin to sink with the bulbs already placed in it, which is fraught with damage to the roots. planting material.

The preparation itself consists of two main stages:

digging the soil onto a shovel bayonet (about forty centimeters deep);
fertilization. Fertilizers enriched with nitrogen are best suited for planting hyacinths, you can also use universal options- rotted compost or peat. Fresh manure can burn planting material, so it is not recommended to use it exclusively.

In addition to the obligatory preparatory actions described above, you can also pour ash into the soil (which is an excellent mineral fertilizer), as well as add special granules of prolonged action, designed specifically for garden plants.

Soil deoxidation

Soil preparation will include one more step if your soil is highly acidic. Before you immerse the bulbs in the ground, you should first deal with its liming. Although this activity may seem troublesome at first, it has a lasting effect and does not need to be repeated often. If you do everything right the first time, then you can forget about acidity for the next few years, only occasionally correcting its indicators.

The choice of material with which liming will be carried out depends on the type of soil.

Table 1. Soil liming materials

Material	Description
Slaked lime or fluff	Suitable for clay and loamy soils. One square ment will require from 400 to 600 grams of fluff, depending on the degree of oxidation
Dolomite flour	It is applied on sandy and sandy soils. For one square meter it will take from 350 to 600 grams of flour
wood ash	Wood ash is versatile, but it takes large amounts of the product to be effective. In addition, ash is not able to replenish calcium reserves in the soil. One square meter will require from 600 to 800 grams of ash

Stages of liming

Soil cultivation takes place in two stages:

first stage. This stage is the main one and involves the distribution of the selected product (lime, flour or ash) on the soil in the autumn simultaneously with the application of organic fertilizers;
second phase. Re-liming is not a necessary procedure, but it allows you to maintain a consistently low level of acidity. It is carried out annually, while the "doses" of the introduction of deoxidizing products are reduced by two to three times.

Video - Methods and timing of liming the soil

Landing dates

The most suitable time for planting hyacinths is considered to be a short period between the end of September and the beginning of October. Of course, when planting, it is important to take into account the climatic features of your region, since the approximate dates are based on the arrival of frost.

AT middle lane By planting bulbs in Russia at the end of September, you prevent two unfavorable scenarios at once:

too fast growth of hyacinths, due to which they will not be able to survive the impending frosts. This result awaits those gardeners who plant the bulbs prematurely;
unsuccessful adaptation of hyacinths to the soil, as a result of which they do not have time to take root, dying underground. This outcome will overtake the bulb if it was planted too late.

It should be noted that with skillful handling of the soil, bulbs can be planted even in early November. However, with such a decision, additional efforts will be required from the gardener - the area on which the planting material was placed will need to be covered with mulch, which will save the soil from freezing. It is permissible to use as mulch:

sawdust;
compost;
spruce branches.

Important! If you are going to mulch the soil, you should remember that at the end of winter the cover layer must be removed in advance so that the mulch does not interfere with the penetration of hyacinth sprouts.

You can read more about mulching and its beneficial effect on the soil below.

bulb preparation

After the bulbs have lain for some time in storage, it is advisable to treat them so that they germinate faster in the new soil. To do this, it is desirable to pre-dilute potassium permanganate in clean water(to get a weak one percent solution of potassium permanganate) and hold the planting material for several minutes in this solution.

In addition to potassium permanganate, you can also use any of the fungicides you have in stock:

Maksim;
Fundazol;
Homa.

Each of these products has its own characteristics of exposure, so before using it is important to read the instructions on the package.

Bulb selection

The preparation of planting material implies a mandatory procedure for rejecting bulbs that have deteriorated, cracked or have signs of disease. Select the bulbs that will give best harvest can be based on the following indications:

in diameter, healthy and strong bulbs should be from four to six or even seven centimeters (however, the dimensions of the planting material largely depend on the variety. For example, a terry variety is small in size);
the diameter of the bulb should be one and a half times the circumference of the bottom;
to the touch, the planting material should be strong and elastic. Husks and other plant residues should not crumble from it.

Landing

Since hyacinth bulbs are not disposable planting material and can be used for several years, they should be given enough free space, with an area of at least 15x20 centimeters. If you are using young or smaller bulbs, this area can be reduced as desired.

The planting depth is calculated very simply - this requires the diameter of each bulb to be multiplied by three:

large bulbs, with a diameter of more than five centimeters, deepen to a distance of 16-20 centimeters;
compact bulbs, whose size does not exceed five centimeters, are placed at a depth of 12-15 centimeters.

Important! When deepening planting material, you need to take into account the type of your soil. If the ground on your site is heavy, then two centimeters should be subtracted from the obtained value. If the earth, on the contrary, is light, then these two centimeters should be added. This measure will prevent the bulb from coming into contact with the freezing soil.

To prevent rotting of the bulbs, it is recommended to fill the bottom of the planting holes with sand, which will act as a drainage and attract all excess moisture to itself. The average layer of sand should be from three to five centimeters. Planting material is carefully immersed in this sand, after which it is additionally sprinkled on top first with sand and then with soil.

Watering is carried out in cases where it did not rain a couple of days before planting.

Landing features

If you want to later grow a beautiful and evenly blooming flower bed, then you should take care of correct location planting material. It is important to remember that it is advisable to group and plant bulbs of the same variety and the same size close to each other. Mixing different varieties will lead to the fact that outwardly the flower bed will look disharmonious.

cultivation

After breaking through the sprouts, the gardener can exhale - the most difficult stage is behind, the bulb has taken root in the soil and began to develop. Now the main tasks of the gardener is to prevent all kinds of diseases of the plant and its timely feeding.

After landing

Hyacinths are quite fragile plants that need careful care and attention from the gardener. Therefore, shortly before the arrival of the first frost, it is important to think about sheltering the bulbs. If earlier you have already poured a layer of mulch, then the issue with shelter can be considered resolved. If you have not had time to do anything yet, then you can either use sawdust or humus, which will save the planting material from freezing, or turn to a special covering fabric.

Fertilizer

Hyacinths do not need frequent feeding. In total, these plants have to be fertilized three times in one season:

the first fertilizers are applied with the appearance of the first sprouts. To speed up the germination of hyacinth, it is recommended to use ammonium nitrate (30 grams per square meter of garden);
the second time the need for top dressing arises already with the advent of the first buds that have not yet opened. At this stage, the plant will need a complex fertilizer, consisting of the already familiar ammonium nitrate(20 grams), superphosphate (40 grams) and potassium chloride (30 grams);
the third and final top dressing occurs at the end of flowering and includes components such as superphosphate and potassium chloride. Both fertilizers are taken in the same amount - 40 grams each.

After flowering

Many inexperienced gardeners are wondering what to do with hyacinths after they bloom. Some prefer to get rid of the plant, but if desired, its bulb can be used as planting material for the next year. There are two main options for storing the bulb after the flowering of hyacinths:

leave the bulb in the soil;
dig up the bulbs and send it to storage.

Due to the fact that a bulb left in the ground tends to rot or dry out, most gardeners prefer the second option, which involves more hassle, but also provides a better end result.

If you want to use the bulb later, then at the end of flowering, the inflorescences of hyacinths should be cut off (so that they do not absorb a significant proportion of nutrients). As a result, you should have only leaves that should be watered until they dry out. In no case should you cut off the green mass, since the leaves continue to feed the bulb until the last moment, which ensures its greater viability in the future.

You can read more about how and how to store the bulb in recent months in a separate article on our portal.

Video - Care for faded hyacinths

Diseases

Hyacinths can hardly be called painful plants; in garden conditions, they are practically not prone to ailments common among flowers. Most often, hyacinths are faced with such an unpleasant disease as bacterial rot.

bacterial rot

This disease is easily recognized by the "liquefaction" of the tissues covering the bulb and their gradual transformation into mucus. At the same time, a strong unpleasant smell of decay begins to emanate from the infected bulb. From such bulbs one can hardly expect beautiful and bright colors.

The only way to combat the disease is to burn the infected material and treat the planting pit (if the bulb has already been in it) by the following means:

five percent formalin;
bleaching powder.

In the coming years, this place will not be used for planting new hyacinths.

Inflorescence fallout

The loss of the inflorescence is not, strictly speaking, an ailment, but it brings a lot of grief to the gardener, who has grown hyacinth so diligently to obtain a strong and profusely flowering inflorescence. The main prerequisite for such an unfortunate incident is an increase in root pressure. In turn, an increase in root pressure in plants causes such errors in the maintenance of bulbs as:

excessive soil moisture;
storage of planting material in too cold rooms;
incorrectly chosen planting time (as a rule, the inflorescence falls out during premature planting).

pest attack

Unfortunately, hyacinths growing in the open field are not protected from pests that encroach on both the aerial part of the plant and its root system. The most frequent "uninvited guests" appearing on hyacinths are:

flower flies - the danger of these insects lies in the fact that they eat the bottom of the bulb, which leads to the rapid withering of all other parts of the plant;
the root mite, as its name implies, is interested in the roots, damage to which just as quickly leads to a deterioration in the condition of the plant;
Medvedka - like the two previous pests, feeds on the underground organs of hyacinths, causing them the most damage.

Due to the fact that all these pests hide underground, it is possible to recognize their presence only by indirect signs - withering of the leaves, drying of the plant, and so on. If you suspect the appearance of pests, the following means come to the aid of gardeners:

tabazole;
actor;
fly-eater

Causes of diseases

If we talk about the prerequisites for the occurrence of diseases in hyacinths in general, then most of them are somehow connected with improper care:

Distillation

If you want to speed up the growth process of hyacinths, then you can always turn to such an option as forcing. Hyacinths can be distilled both in the soil and in the aquatic environment. However, the pot and soil option seems more familiar to most gardeners, so it is used more often.

It is important to prepare in advance for distillation, as well as for planting in open ground. In order for the bulbs to germinate, they must undergo summer storage at high temperatures - not lower than twenty-five degrees. Also, it should be borne in mind that only large planting material is suitable for forcing - the bulbs you choose should not be less than five centimeters in diameter.

Distillation of hyacinths: step by step instructions

Step 1. Choose a small container that will not differ significantly from the diameter of the bulb. When immersing a hyacinth in a spacious pot, the plant will take much longer to adapt and root, so it is important to choose a proportionate vessel. With the simultaneous cultivation of several hyacinths, you can use the cactus.

Step 2 Poke a few holes in the container and place pots or styrofoam on the bottom to act as drainage and remove excess moisture, preventing the bulb from rotting.

Step 3 Various components can be used as a soil mixture, however, the "formula" consisting of peat, sand and garden soil in equal quantities is recognized as optimal. Some gardeners use only garden soil and sand from this list, refusing peat. You can grow hyacinths even in river sand alone, as bulbous plants do not need nutrients during their entire growing season. The soil mixture should fill the container about halfway.

Step 4 When placing hyacinths, do not try to deepen them into sand or soil. Place the planting material in the soil mixture and fill the bulbs with wet sand so that they remain one and a half centimeters open on top. After that, tamp the sand with your hands and water it.

Step 5 Pick up a thick paper bag that does not let in light, and cover the container with bulbs with it, signing the date. In this position, hyacinths will spend the next month and a half at a temperature of five to ten degrees. If this condition is not met, you risk encountering deformed peduncles, or lack of flowering.

8 minutes to read

One of the first flowers to bloom in early spring is the hyacinth. Although the plant is considered capricious, it can easily be grown on your own site.

Plant features

Small flowers are concentrated in apical racemes, forming a cone or cylinder. The bulb is made up of grass-roots leaves filled with juice. The stem is a continuation of the bottom and can reach a height of 30 cm.

Hyacinth orientalis

At the end of flowering, the stem and the leaves located in its lower part dry out. In parallel with this, a kidney is formed inside the bulb, which eventually forms a new bulb. A few more young bulbs can be found in the corners of the rest of the leaves. In the future, full-fledged flowers can be grown from them.

In order to grow hyacinths on the site, planting and care should be carried out only in open ground, without the use of greenhouses and greenhouses. Planted in autumn, the plant tolerates low temperatures and frosts well.

Varieties

Modern science divides the known hyacinths into 3 types:

Oriental
Litvinova
transcaspian

Based on these species, various varieties are cultivated. They differ from each other:

flower shape
flower color
Timing

The earliest are considered blue varieties of hyacinths, the latest - orange-yellow.

Hyacinth Litvinova

Varieties of oriental hyacinth are widely spread:

Gypsy Queen
City of Harlem
woodstock
white pearl
pink pearl
Carnegie
Jan Bos
White Festival
Midnight Mystique

Fact! The latest variety is a black hyacinth, first introduced to the general public in 2005.

reproduction

You can breed a spring flower with the help of seeds and baby bulbs.

The best option for breeders is seed planting. At the end of September, planting material is planted in a box with soil (proportion 1: 1: 2 - sand, leafy soil, humus).

Propagation of hyacinths

Cultivation by seeds is carried out in a greenhouse for two years. It should be borne in mind that hyacinths grown from seed do not repeat characteristics parent plants. Because of this, vegetative propagation of hyacinths is more suitable for amateur gardeners. Plants grown from seeds begin to bloom in 5-6 years.

"Babies" are formed at the bulbs very slowly - up to three shoots per year. Neoplasms can be planted only if they are easily separated from the mother bulb, otherwise they do not need to be disturbed until autumn.

Breeding hyacinths on a large scale involves artificial methods - incision and cutting of the bottom. Incisions are made on it with a sharp disinfected instrument. In addition, the bottom can be completely cut out - during subsequent storage, this will contribute to the formation of new children. In this way, you can grow up to 40 children on the 1st bulb.

Preparing for landing

Hyacinths are planted in autumn only in previously prepared soil. To do this, you need to carefully dig the soil to a depth of 40 cm. The landing site should be additionally fertilized by adding up to 15 kg of rotten compost or four-year-old humus, 70 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate for each m2.

Hyacinth Gypsy Queen

You need to start preparing the soil two months before planting the bulbs - in August. If this is done later, the natural settlement of the soil can lead to the breakage of the formed roots. The landing site is processed to a depth of 40 cm.

If necessary, peat or sand can be added to the soil.

Advice! If planting is done in sandy soil, you need to significantly increase the amount of magnesium and potassium fertilizers used.

Landing

Bulbs are best for planting standard size, they are distinguished by flower stalks immune to bad weather. Do not plant damaged, diseased and soft bulbs. Before immersion in the soil, the planting material must be left in the fungicide solution for half an hour.

Decorating a flower bed with hyacinths

Neutral soil is considered optimal for hyacinths. It must be prepared in advance. For this purpose, a mixture in a 1: 1 ratio is suitable, consisting of soddy and leafy soil with the addition of a small amount of baking powder.

If clay soil prevails on the site, it is recommended to add sand to it, acidic soil must be limed.

Advice! If peat or rotted compost was not introduced into the soil at the preparatory stage, this top dressing is applied to separate holes during planting.

Given the negative reaction of the flower to excessive soil moisture, you need to take care of good drainage.

It is better to plant in a well-lit place. It is also worth considering that hyacinth dies with constant exposure to direct sunlight.

A flower bed with hyacinths should be located in a place protected from drafts and powerful winds. To do this, you can place a flower in the immediate vicinity of trees or dense shrubs.

Planting hyacinths in the fall should be done within a strictly allotted time frame. The best time for this is the end of September - the beginning of October. It is not recommended to plant flowers before this period - in good weather, the growth phase of the plant may activate, which will lead to their death with a decrease in air temperature. If planted later, the flower may not have time to put down strong roots before the onset of frost.

If necessary, planting dates can be extended until mid-November. In this case, it is better to pre-insulate the landing site with leaves and protect it from bad weather with a film. Warming must be used after landing.

Adult bulbs should be planted to a depth of 18 cm from the bottom. In this case, the distance between each plant should be from 15 cm or more, an interval of 20 cm must be maintained between rows.

Small bulbs can be planted less densely at a shallower depth. A separated baby is planted earlier than adult bulbs - in early autumn. They usually begin to bloom in 2-3 years.

Hyacinth will grow well when planted in a "sand shirt". To do this, when landing on the bottom of the hole, it is necessary to pour out a 5-cm layer of sand into which the bulb is pressed. After that, it must be covered first with sand, and only then with soil. Thanks to this method, normal drainage is ensured and the risk of the bulb starting to rot is minimized.

If, after planting the plant, the earth in the flower bed remains dry, it can be watered. To protect the soil from drying out and the plant from disease, it is advisable to mulch the soil before planting.

Attention! Regardless of climatic conditions, planting hyacinths cannot be done in the spring.

Further care

Without much experience, you can start hyacinths on your site, cultivation and care will be within the power of even novice flower growers. The main thing is to follow all the important tips and recommendations. So, it is very important to fight weeds in a timely manner in the area adjacent to the flower bed.

Hyacinths in landscape design

The soil needs to be loosened regularly. The plant does not tolerate excess moisture. Too wet soil leads to the fact that the inflorescences, not having time to bloom, fall out of the outlet. This phenomenon may also indicate storage at an insufficiently high temperature or too early planting.

You can water the plant only on dry days - the earthen lump must be soaked with water to a depth of 20 cm.

Transplanting hyacinths is not difficult. When flowering is complete, it is necessary to dig up the bulbs and plant them in a more suitable place in the fall. It is best to do this a couple of months after the plant has faded. At the end of flowering, it is necessary to cut the peduncle as high as possible.

At the end of the flowering of hyacinths, it is necessary to give the bulbs the opportunity to recuperate. The volume of water for irrigation should be gradually reduced until it stops completely.

You need to dig up a hyacinth after its leaves turn yellow. This must be done every year, otherwise in the future the flowering will be much poorer and the risk of planting material disease will increase. Thanks to the annual digging, it is possible to control the quality of the bulbs and to separate the resulting babies in a timely manner.

No need to wait for the leaves to die - without them, finding the location of the bulb will be problematic. The bulbs sit at a great depth and you need to use a shovel to dig them out. After removing them from the ground, they must be washed with running water and immersed in a solution of karbofos (3-4%) for 30 minutes. Instead of treatment with karbofos, you can hold them for 10 minutes in water heated to 50 ° C. After processing, the bulbs need to be ventilated and dried for a week in a darkened room at an air temperature of 20 ° C.

To preserve planting material, it is very important to properly store the bulbs. During this period, the inflorescence ripens in them. Dried bulbs need to be cleaned of scales and roots, divided into sections and placed in one layer in boxes. During this period, small neoplasms should remain with adult bulbs. To store a small number of bulbs, you can use paper bags, marking them with appropriate labels. The room in which the planting material is stored must be well ventilated.

Storage of material consists of two stages. During the first two months, the bulbs should be stored at an air temperature of 25-26°C. In the third month, it is important to provide an average level of humidity so that the bulbs do not dry out. The air temperature at this time should not be higher than 17 ° C. The first stage can be made shorter by a week if the material is stored at 30°C for the first seven days.

Most of the small children develop during rest.

Fertilization

It is advisable to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the spring and summer.

Top dressing should be applied up to three times during the entire period of plant development - in the phase of active growth dew, during the budding period, after flowering.

Application of fertilizers in dry and liquid form is allowed. It should be borne in mind that in liquid top dressing there is a lower concentration of fertilizers than in dry one, and before using it, the flower bed must be watered. Dry fertilizer should be scattered around the flower bed and immersed in the ground with a chopper.

Diseases and pests

Failure to follow certain rules of planting and care can lead to plant disease:

dense landing
Buying infected bulbs
Planting a damaged bulb
Acidic heavy soil
Neglect of disinfection of planting material

Most of all, hyacinths are susceptible to bacterial rot, corroding the bulbs to the state of slime with a bad smell. The infected plant begins to lag behind in growth, stripes and spots form on the leaves and peduncle. All plants that have been affected by rot must be dug up and burned. The hole in which the flower grew should be treated with bleach.

Penicella rot leads to the formation of fungal plaque on the aerial parts of the plant, drying of flowers and decay. To remove the fungus, hyacinth should be sprayed with preparations containing copper.

The most common pest of hyacinths are flower flies. The larvae of this insect settle on the bottom of the bulb and eat it completely. To destroy them, you need to use the following drugs:

"Flycat"

Foreword

Hyacinth is a beautiful plant with wonderful aroma. It can become a decoration for your site, but for this, planting hyacinths in the spring must follow all the rules. We asked experienced gardeners, and they shared their secrets with us.

Required Tools

Sand

The area where you will plant should be calm and well lit. If there is not enough space on the site, you can plant plants near trees, but be aware that they may not have enough sunlight. In addition, you will have to feed the hyacinths more often, because the trees will “pull” the nutrients onto themselves. You can also plant them on small slopes, because the accumulation of water in the soil can lead to the appearance of a fungus, which will be difficult to remove.

However, if you plant bulbs of plants in transparent containers for the winter, you can carry out work in the spring, the main thing is that severe frosts pass.

So that the rains do not wash away the prepared soil, the soil must be covered before planting, using leaves or thin plywood sheets. At the same time, flower bulbs should be healthy, medium in size - this will make the flowers more resistant and susceptible to bad weather conditions. We plant bulbs of plants to a depth of about 15 cm; if the planting of hyacinths in the spring takes place in a row, there should be a distance of 20 cm between them. Bulbs, smaller than 5 cm in diameter, are planted thicker.

We fill each hole with river sand with a layer of about 3 cm, after which we lay the bulbs and sprinkle with soil. Sand in this case will act as protection against waterlogging and the appearance of infections. In the event that the planting of hyacinths in the spring will be carried out in large quantities, then it is best to make high beds, because then caring for the plant will become much more convenient and faster. If a cold snap is planned, be sure to cover the plants with sawdust or peat.

Feeding is as important as planting hyacinths in the spring, because plant bulbs require a lot of nutrients for normal development. First of all, these are mineral fertilizers, which are applied as soon as the snow melts. The best and most effective include potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate.

After the appearance of the buds, a second top dressing is carried out with the help of mineral nutrients. The third time only potassium chloride is added. At the same time, with each application of nutrients, it is imperative to loosen the soil, so you will give the measles flower system the air it needs. Important Tips care:

It is important to loosen the soil with a rake and remove the first weeds that appear that can kill hyacinths;
Water the flowers abundantly, to a depth of 20 cm, but not too often;
When diseased plants appear, they must be removed and burned, otherwise diseases and pests can pass to other plants.

Improper care can lead to negative consequences. So, for example, a lack of sunlight and excessive watering leads to yellowness of the leaves, their elongation. If water gets on the buds, they may simply not open. There may also be problems with the lack of buds. This can be caused by several reasons: from-for planting small bulbs, due to their improper maintenance before planting(e.g. too heat and humidity).

Most often, hyacinths are affected by bacterial rot, due to which the bulbs eventually turn into slime with bad smell. Unfortunately, it is pointless to deal with this problem. Therefore, they should simply be dug up and burned, and the hole where the plants were planted should be etched with bleach or 5% formalin solution.

Hyacinth is a representative of the bulbous perennials, which can be grown both in the garden and on the windowsill. In order for the flower to grow healthy and strong, and also to please with beautiful buds every year, it is necessary not only to dig up the bulb and store it under certain conditions, but also to properly plant it in a flower bed.

For most regions of Russia, planting hyacinths in open ground is carried out in autumn, at the end of September and until mid-October. Here it is important to focus on temperature conditions- in the heat, the bulbs can germinate prematurely and die after the first frost.

Individual gardeners practice planting hyacinths in the spring. It should be noted that carrying out work in the specified season is advisable only if it is not possible to plant the bulbs in the fall. In order for the planting material to be accepted, it is necessary to create a sandy "cocoon" and sprinkle it with earth.

Since it is very difficult to bloom in the same season when planting hyacinths in the spring, the bulbs are subjected to stress that stimulates flower bud growth. For this, planting material is placed in a freezer an hour before direct planting.

It is necessary to plant hyacinths in the spring immediately after the threat of frost has passed, at different dates in March, depending on the region. The soil is harvested, covered with foliage or thin plywood so that it has time to warm up and not be washed away by rain.

Preparatory work before boarding

In order for the hyacinth to please with beautiful flowering, it is necessary to pay great attention to the selection of the site and the preparation of the soil. The perfect place for these plants is considered:

Well-lit area, without drafts and access to strong winds;
With neutral soil acidity (6.5 units), without prolonged stagnation of water;
On a small hill and without a close location of groundwater.

It is not recommended to plant hyacinths in the shade of trees and tall shrubs, as they root system takes all the nutrients from the soil. As a result, hyacinths will not receive the required amount of macro- and microelements, which will negatively affect the quality of budding.

Before planting, the site must be dug up for 1 bayonet of a shovel, as well as to kill all large clods of earth. For 1 m 2 of soil, be sure to add:

200 g of wood ash or dolomite flour;
60-80 g of superphosphate;
Up to 15 kg of rotted manure or humus.

Conduct preparatory work on the beds you need in advance, several months, in extreme cases, 2 weeks before planting hyacinths in the open field. During this time, natural shrinkage of the soil will occur, and the roots will not be damaged during planting immediately after digging.

A few hours before planting, it is necessary to disinfect the bulbs by soaking them for 30 minutes in a solution of any fungicide or potassium permanganate. This will help prevent infection by fungi, pathogenic bacteria and rot. After disinfection, be sure to dry the planting material in the shade and only then plant it on the beds.

How to plant hyacinths in spring in open ground

Planting hyacinths is carried out according to the following scheme:

Small holes with a diameter of 15-18 cm are dug on dug-up beds at a distance of about 15-10 cm. When planting small bulbs, the holes should be closer to each other.
A layer of coarse-grained river sand is poured at the bottom of the hole, then a layer of soil.
The bulb is slightly pressed into the ground, sand can be poured on the sides and top to create a semblance of a “shirt”.
The planting depth of hyacinths varies depending on the size of the planting material - large bulbs (about 5 cm) are deepened by 15-18 cm, the standard size - by 12-15 cm.
Hyacinths are covered with soil, then the soil should be slightly moistened and covered with a layer of leaves, sawdust or peat.

If there is a lot of planting material, it can be planted on high beds, since in this case care is greatly simplified.

How to care for hyacinths in spring

Hyacinths like others flowering plants in the garden, in need of basic care. When weeds appear, it is necessary to weed the beds, and during a drought, water moderately so that the soil is moistened to a depth of about 15-20 cm.

At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the inflorescences and other parts of the plant, which are highly sensitive to excess moisture. Be sure to loosen the ground so that air penetrates to the roots, and the bulb "breathes".

Nutrients - necessary condition good development of hyacinths, so in the spring it will be necessary to fertilize the soil in the following concentration per 1 m 2:

At the beginning of growth, 15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate are used;
During the laying of flower buds and flowering - 30-35 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate;
After flowering is completed - 30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Do not forget that hyacinths need an annual transplant to a new site, so in the fall it is recommended to dig them up, remove all leaves and store until the next planting. Such a measure will help maintain the quality of flowering and the health of the plant.

Many summer residents tend to grow hyacinths in their area, planting and caring for them in the open field require a certain amount of time. In this article, we will look at how to grow these beautiful flowers (even in regions where the ground freezes in winter), when to dig up hyacinths, how to store bulbs, and how to propagate your favorite variety.

Hyacinths in a flower bed (photo by Nadezhda Abramovich, Krasnodar)

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, green arrows of hyacinths sprout from the ground. This flower with a charming and pronounced aroma differs in all shades of the rainbow. Inflorescences in the form of brushes can be both ordinary and terry in structure, 20-30 buds are usually located on the peduncle.

Planting hyacinths in the ground: the choice of bulbs and places for their planting

Perennial hyacinth is a bulbous crop, the size of the bulb may vary depending on the flower variety. Planting material is considered an adult by the age of 5-6, when it is fully formed. The tuber is a scaly sphere with a renewal bud - it is she who affects its growth. By the 5th year, adult bulbs usually acquire children, which form near the bottom and are hidden under the scales.

Hyacinth, photo of flowers:

When choosing tubers, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

Bulbs of terry species are often smaller in size, unlike their ordinary counterparts.
To grow flowers in the open field, the tuber must have at least 4 cm in diameter, a full-fledged active kidney and multiple scales. Elasticity and heaviness are indicators of the healthy state of the bulb.
The appearance of the bulb should be perfect - no damage, wilted sides, mold.
Root primordia should be present on the bottom of the tuber (near the bottom).
The bottom of a bulb suitable for planting should be about one and a half to two times smaller than the bulb itself (we are talking about volume).

The key to long and lush flowering is not only high-quality planting material, but also the place for planting. You can break a flower garden near trees or bushes, but not very close to them. The place for plants should be calm, well lit by sunlight. The soil needs loose, if your site is dominated by chernozem or loam, then it is advisable to add peat to it in advance (you can also sand). Soddy land or leafy humus are excellent conditions for the development, growth and flowering of hyacinths.

As a fertilizer, organics give good results, but you should not use manure. If the soil is acidic (pH above 6.5), then it should be diluted with dolomite (limestone) flour. Hyacinth tubers do not like excessive moisture. If on your site groundwater lies close to the surface (closer than 0.5 m), you cannot do without arranging high beds. In addition, the plants will have to provide a high-quality drainage substrate, as well as make a slight slope of the ridge - for a better outflow of water during rains, spring snowmelt. With the advent of spring, high beds warm up faster with sunlight, hyacinths bloom much earlier.

When to plant hyacinths

An acceptable time for planting bulbs is mid-September/October. It should be borne in mind that if you plant a tuber too early, it will begin to develop, but it will not endure the winter, it will freeze. If you plant hyacinths too late, they will not have time to take root and get used to the place - respectively, they will also die. If you are late with boarding, then hurry up by the first week of November - this is the latest date. To do this, you will have to resort to additional measures - cover the planting site with fallen leaves, spruce branches or any other shelter to prevent the bulbs from freezing.

Can hyacinths be planted in spring? I often see that gardeners ask about the spring planting of hyacinths. Most likely this question arises if you bought or gave you a flowering hyacinth in a pot. How to be in this case with the bulb? First, let the flower bloom. Secondly, you should not immediately transplant the bulb into open ground. Let the bulb ripen: reduce watering, leave the flower alone, wait until all the leaves turn yellow and begin to die. It will take about a month and a half. After that, release the bulb from the pot and leave it in a shady place until September-October (the timing depends on the region). And then do as the tips recommend planting hyacinths in the fall.

Growing hyacinths outdoors

It is highly desirable to prepare the soil in advance - dig to a depth of about 40-45 cm and make the required additives (depending on the composition and condition of the soil). Limestone (200 g), wood ash (150 g), superphosphate (50-70 g), magnesium sulfate (10 g) or potassium (20 g) are added at an approximate rate per 1 m² of land. So that fragile young roots are not damaged during planting, digging the soil at the site of the future flower garden is also important. During the deepening of the bulbs, the soil temperature should be approximately 8-11 degrees, the distance between the tubers should be no more than 10-15 cm. If the flowers are planted in beds, then the row spacing should be approximately 18-22 cm. bloom at the same time, make sure that all tubers are approximately the same size.

Hyacinth, photo of bulbs:

The place for the future flower garden is mulched with leaves or some other suitable material covered with plastic wrap to keep warm. After the tubers are deepened, the area is sprinkled with sawdust or peat, it can also be covered again with foliage or coniferous spruce branches. Special covering material is excellent for these purposes. With the arrival of the first days of spring, the protective coating can be removed to make way for the hatching hyacinth sprouts.

As mentioned above, the bulbs must be healthy, but if you are still afraid of fungal manifestations, you can pre-soak them in a fungicide solution.

The width and depth of the hole under the tuber should be equal to two of its sizes - about 15-25 cm, you can pour a little sand on the bottom, and then deepen the tuber with the bottom down (about 13-15 cm). The bulb is sprinkled with soil, which needs to be lightly tamped, then watered.

The root system of a plant absorbs moisture and useful material from the ground within a radius of about 20 cm from the tuber - this should be taken into account. Small onions should not be deeply buried, they should also be planted quite densely.

How to care for hyacinth

After the protective cover is removed, plant care will consist of weeding, regular watering, loosening the soil, and fertilizing. It should be borne in mind that hyacinths do not react well to the neighborhood of weeds. When the buds begin to set and the time for flowering comes, fertilizing the soil becomes especially relevant. After spitting the sprouts, the flowers can be fed with saltpeter (25-30 g per 1 m²).

The second stage of fertilizers follows during the period when the buds are gaining color. Now, in addition to ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride (25 g) and a phosphorus additive (for example, superphosphate, 35 g) can be added. At the end of flowering, superphosphate and potassium chloride are applied to the site - 35 g of each product per 1 m² of area. Fertilizers are processed between rows or places between flowers, after fertilizing, watering always follows.

Hyacinths - how to care after flowering? Unfortunately, this wonderful period is fleeting, after the flowers have dried, the roots should continue to be saturated with moisture. In order for the tubers to recover well after flowering, watering and fertilizing should come first. If you live in a “cold” region, then you cannot leave hyacinths for the winter, you will have to dig them out - these are the necessary measures for the further favorable formation of replacement buds.

If you live in the Kuban, in the Crimea, in the north of the Caucasus, then the annual digging of tubers can be avoided, but only if the summer is very hot. It should be borne in mind that the bulbs left in the ground will produce much fewer flowers next year.

When to dig up hyacinths after flowering

The optimal period is the last weeks of June - the first half of July, when the leaves of the plant become yellow and weak. The ground part of the flower is removed, the tubers are removed from the soil, washed with water and dried thoroughly. Next, we carry out an audit - we discard damaged (or with obvious signs of illness) specimens. If there are undeveloped children on the bulb, they are separated and set aside for growing. Before storage, all tubers must be treated against diseases and pests.

Planting material, photo:

After all the manipulations, the bulbs should be kept for about 7-10 days in a well-ventilated place at an air temperature of +17..+20 °C. To do this, they need to be laid out on clean paper, and after the specified time, hidden in paper bags. It is the period after flowering, as well as the time of processing and storage of tubers, that are the most important for hyacinths. At this time, the acclimatization of the planting material takes place, the scales dry up, the tubers are prepared for the summer period.

At a sufficiently high summer temperature, the bulbs should be provided with air access and moderate humidity (if the thermometer reaches + 30 ° C). About three weeks before planting, the temperature in the room with the bulbs should be lowered to +16 ° C - this will help them adapt before planting.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

Separately, it is worth considering breeding methods, since tubers can produce flowers for two or three years, but at the same time they will not have children. To do this, the bulbs need stimulation, it is carried out in various ways.

Cutting the bottom of a hyacinth tuber

Even when planting on the site, the place where the largest bulbs are planted is determined. After the leaves of the plant turn yellow, the tuber is removed from the ground and immediately, without letting it dry, they arrange a “shower” under strong water pressure. During this process, old scales are removed along with the earth. Next, the bulbs are laid out in one layer in a ventilated box, taken out to a shaded place, dried for about 7-10 days. After this time, with sharp knife a wedge-shaped cut is made on the donut, in which the kidney and the donut itself are completely removed. The cut point must be treated with crushed activated carbon.

After this operation, the tubers are laid out in a container, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of perlite. Bulbs should be placed cut bottom up. Next, the container is placed in a large plastic bag (garbage bags can be used) to create the required microclimate. At a temperature of + 30 ° C and high humidity, children will appear at the cut site, and after 2-3 months they will reach about 1 cm, acquire the rudiments of roots and start up small shoots. If the cutting of the bottom was done in the first months of summer, then the tuber with the children can be planted in the soil and covered with sawdust (or peat).

If time is lost, then the tubers are turned upside down, placed in a container with soil, placed in the cold (refrigerator, basement), and with the onset of spring they are planted on the site.

After the hyacinths have faded, what to do with them next? With the onset of August, these tubers are dug up (by that time they are already covered with children), the children are separated. By the beginning of September, the young generation of hyacinths is buried in the soil, covered with a 10 cm layer of mulch (sawdust, coniferous spruce branches, foliage, peat). At the end of the first winter, the mulch layer is removed, but left in place after the second winter. In the third year, such hyacinths give color and delight you with a wonderful aroma.

Reproduction by scales from bulbs

Large tubers (about 5-6 cm in diameter) are cut into 4 parts, after which some scales are separated from the bottom, the “wound” surface is treated with crushed activated carbon. Next, a container is taken, at the bottom of which perlite or clean sand is poured, you can also use crushed charcoal with ash. Broken off scales are placed in this container, then it is placed in a transparent plastic bag, securely tied and aged for 2 months in not too bright light.

At the same time, the air temperature should be approximately +19..23 °C, but at the second stage, which lasts a month and a half, the temperature should be reduced to +16..19 °C. During this period, several bulbs will be tied on the scales. Keeping young livestock is similar to the method described in the first method.

Propagation of hyacinths by cuttings of a leaf

To do this, you should wait for the period of ovary of peduncles and separate a pair of sheets from hyacinths, they need to be cut as close to the base as possible. Next, the leaves are treated in a solution that stimulates root formation (for example, "Heteroauxin") and buried 3-4 cm in a container with clean sand (or perlite). This container, again, is enclosed in a plastic bag, tied up and placed in a moderately lit place for a month and a half. The air temperature should vary within + 10..17 ° С, humidity - 80-90%. After the specified period on the cuttings, you can see bulbous rudiments, and after 50-60 days - young roots and small leaves. Next, the plants are planted on the site, each cutting subsequently gives 6-10 children.

Incision of the bottom, as a way to propagate hyacinth

With this procedure, the bottom is not removed, as in the first case, but is cut crosswise. On large tubers, a pair of crosses is made, on those that are smaller - one. Damaged areas are treated with powdered activated carbon, then the bulbs are placed in warm room(+20..22 °С) in order for the “crosses” to open. All further actions similar to the recommendations above. With this method of tuber stimulation, it is possible to obtain approximately 10-16 large young bulbs.

In order for these heralds of spring to please you with long flowering, splendor of tassels and amazing aroma, you need to make an effort. Now you know how to grow hyacinths, planting and caring for them in the open field, although they are difficult, are undoubtedly worth the time and effort spent.