How and where to plant raspberries. How to plant raspberries: proper planting, care, seedling fertilizer

Hi all! Planting raspberries is a fairly responsible event. At right choice plot and planting scheme, you can achieve abundant fruiting of the bushes.

To successfully plant raspberries, you will need:

• bayonet shovel;
• humus;
• watering can;
• secateurs.

Preparatory stage

The raspberry planting site should be open, well lit - then the berry will be large, juicy and fragrant, subject to regular abundant watering. You should not plant raspberries in a lowland or in places where groundwater rises close to the surface - the bushes will hurt and produce a poor harvest.

Try to avoid the neighborhood of raspberries with plantings of potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries, as these plants share pests and diseases with raspberries. You should not plant raspberries next to currants and sea buckthorn - their root system is at the same depth and the plants will interfere with each other, which will have a bad effect on the crop. Cherries are especially bad for raspberries - raspberries located at a distance of less than 4 meters will be oppressed, poorly growing and not producing berries.

Raspberries, regardless of variety, prefer loose, fertile soil, and to improve growth, you can add a glass of lime or a liter jar of wood ash under each bush.

In regions with a warm climate, it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, in mid-September, so that the seedling has time to take root well three weeks before the start of frost. In places with a more severe climate, it is better to plant raspberries in the spring so that they are not damaged by frost. The timing of planting seedlings depends not only on the climate, but also on the characteristics of the variety - some varieties withstand drought better due to a powerful root system, others are more resistant to frost.

You should also pay attention to the growing season of the planted variety.

The choice of material for planting depends on the season:

• in spring, grassy green shoots with a height of at least 20 cm, which have already developed white roots, serve as seedlings;
• in the summer, you can plant varietal plants grown in a container - they will have time to take root and prepare for wintering;
• ripened annual shoots are suitable for autumn planting, in which a fibrous root system has formed and replacement buds have appeared on the root collar.

Raspberry Planting Instructions

The selected area is cleared of debris and weeds. If a decision is made to plant raspberries in a bush way, markup should be made. The raspberry planting scheme is as follows: pits for seedlings should be located in increments of 120 cm in one row and with an interval of 150-170 cm between rows. This will enable the bushes to develop properly, and after 3-4 years the seedling will turn into a lush bush. A couple of hours before planting, dip the seedlings with their roots in a container of water so that they are well saturated with moisture. It is desirable to add "Kornevin" or a similar agent to the water. But it is impossible to keep the roots in water for more than two hours, otherwise the roots will begin to lose potassium and then take root poorly.

A hole is dug under the seedling, about 40 cm wide and high.

A bucket of humus should be added to the excavated earth and mixed well.

A layer of prepared soil mixture is poured at the bottom of the hole, the layer thickness should be 10-15 cm.

Next, lower the seedling into the hole, after straightening the roots of the plant. It is important that the replacement bud, which is located at the base of the trunk, ends up 3-4 cm below ground level. If you dig deeper, the plant may rot, and if the seedling is planted too high, it will freeze in winter.

Then the root system in the hole is covered with soil mixture. Having covered the roots with prepared soil, pour plenty of water from the watering can into the hole, then pour a thick layer of the same soil mixture.

Compact the ground with your hands so that it fits to the roots without voids - in this case, the plant adapts faster in a new place, does not get sick and will grow in the spring.

The second watering of raspberries planted in autumn is carried out a week after planting - one bucket of water per bush is enough. Raspberry care consists in cutting dry branches in the spring and removing excess growth. Watering is required only on hot days.

That's all, we are waiting for the harvest!

We must not forget that raspberries not only grow rapidly at the landing site, but also tend to escape to neighboring territories. How to plant raspberries so as not to waste time uprooting and cutting out unnecessary shoots among other cultivated plants?

In this case, a ditch is dug out, the bottom and walls of which are lined with geotextiles that prevent the penetration of roots. The soil enriched with humus is returned to the trench, and then, using standard technology, seedlings are planted in one row with a step of 60 - 80 cm. Plants planted in a row need support so that they do not bend in the wind, for which stakes are driven in on both sides of the row and a cord is pulled.

Note! Raspberries are self-pollinating plants, but cross-pollination by bees and other insects can double the yield. Therefore, it is recommended to plant 2 - 3 varieties at once, blooming in one period of time.

Video on the topic "how to plant raspberries":

How to grow large raspberries

In the spring, shorten last year's stems by a third of the total growth. Then cut to the ground all the dry branches that have already brought the crop last year. In the summer, destroy excess young shoots at the base of the bush and root suckers that appear between the bushes if they are not needed for propagation. Make supports or garters for flexible branches of raspberries, otherwise they lean to the ground from the weight of berries and leaves. Let the young shoots of the current year grow freely upwards.

And in the fall, after harvesting the fruits, tie them to the place of the removed fruit-bearing ones.

Raspberries require a lot of fertilizer, as their strong growth constantly depletes the soil. Therefore, every autumn, after digging, “cover” the soil with humus 10 cm high and leave it on the surface until next summer. Sometimes you can also fertilize in the spring, using phosphorus and potash fertilizers, they should be planted to a depth of 10-12 cm. Nitrogen-containing dressings - slurry, bird droppings - use only in the spring. In summer, they cause increased growth of shoots, which then do not ripen and do not tolerate wintering well. When pouring berries, also use phosphate and potash fertilizers. Water the raspberry patch abundantly: when ovaries form, every 7-10 days.

Stop watering at the end of August.

For the winter, all shoots need to be bent and pinned as close to the ground as possible. Try to bend as low as possible so that the snow covers the entire plant. And remember: raspberries can be grown in one place for no more than 10 years, because after that the yields drop sharply.

Characteristics, what factors affect it, the amount and ratio of fertilizers applied - a safe ratio of organic matter and the mineral component, the nuances of soil preparation during planting and other important details that you need to know.

Before landing: which is better, which is suitable?

Pledge of productivity, aroma, intensity of color and taste of berries, disease resistance, winter hardiness, what kind of soil is best for raspberries?

Promising are light loamy and sandy loamy, well-drained, loose and light, saturated with organic matter and microelements, humus, fertile for the development of beneficial microorganisms.

Sandy ones are not so bad due to their lightness and friability, good access to oxygen. As a disadvantage, they do not retain moisture well; due to the low saturation of microelements, they need frequent top dressing. They need to be added more, and in several steps.
Clay heavy - saturated with organic matter and inorganic substances, but problematic due to the large amount of water that displaces oxygen. The root system of plants suffocates when waterlogged, reacts with decay, diseases. On such soils, low survival rate of seedlings, lower yields, frequent attacks.

pH problem

What soil acidity for raspberries is considered optimal? As a rule, pH 5.8 - 6.2 is the most favorable indicator. With increased, the bioavailability of macro- and microelements decreases, their physico-chemical composition worsens due to an increase in the solubility of toxic compounds. So, an excess of aluminum and hydrogen makes phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium less available. In turn, the introduction of these microelements displaces hydrogen, stabilizes the salt balance, increasing the physical and chemical properties of the soil for raspberries and not only.

It would be a big exaggeration to say that raspberries do not take root at all with an acidic soil reaction for raspberries. The only thing that she does not like is the low content of potassium, sodium: the microelement composition of such soil is poor.

• Before any large-scale planting work, for example, they check the reaction of the soil - the benefit of pH testers and other instruments, laboratories and methods like litmus tests is enough. If your fears are confirmed, alkalization is carried out.
• The introduction of wood ash for digging to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, for 2 bayonets of a shovel in the amount of 150-200 g per 1 m / 2.
• Chalk is also introduced in an amount of up to 500 g/m2, dolomite flour containing calcium and magnesium in an amount of 300 kg/ha to 8-10 t/ha, depending on the reaction.
• Reducing the dose of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, eliminating fresh manure, bird droppings, nitroammafoska, increasing the share of NPK.
• Sufficient air access, ventilation has a beneficial effect.

What affects acidity?

Ph value is not constant.

What affects soil acidity? Many factors - from calcium nitrate to mulch. Don't believe?

• The main factors, in addition to natural climatic factors, are the activity of bacteria that produce acid and gas (ammonia) during the breakdown of proteins, cellulose, and sugars.
• The amount and ratio of nitrogen and mineral supplements. The same nitroammafoska, introduced in uncontrolled quantities, can cause a lot of harm, as well as such a harmless agricultural technique as mulching.
• The use of chemicals also affects - to combat diseases and pests, fertilizers, herbicides.

But back to our bacteria. When fresh manure is introduced, the reaction of the breakdown of sugars and protein begins, which means the release of acid. They are neutralized by other bacteria, the so-called natural deoxidizers. If the natural balance is disturbed, and the violation occurs in any cultural area, compensation does not occur due to the death of the latter and the growth of pathogenic flora.
The same representatives of vermiculture - worms that improve the agricultural background, cannot compete with bacteria and die. This is the very first wake-up call reporting a violation of agricultural safety rules.

As for herbicides and chemicals, by killing pathogenic bacteria and weeds, they also kill beneficial bacteria - saprophytes. The earth becomes sterile in the literal sense of the word, as with the Mittlider method - this is at best. At worst, it is colonized by pathogenic microorganisms, which leads to diseases, winter attacks, and reduced yields.

Acidity and fertilizers: who wins

An axiom for most gardeners: in an environment acidified above the norm, plants are deficient in nitrogen. Is this really so? Let's try to prove it.

Without going into the details of biochemistry, nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which absorb gas from the soil and transfer it to plants, are active only in a slightly acidic reaction. With a strongly acidic or strongly alkaline reaction, they die. This is the first.

Further, as you know, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are presented in two forms - nitrate and ammonia. In the latter, nitrogen is more bioavailable, easier to assimilate by plants and soil. The former are quickly washed out, absorbed more slowly. In this regard, ammonium (ammonia) forms are used on alkaline soils, and nitrate fertilizers on acid soils.

When using ammonia fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, ammonium carbonate - urea, which are considered less suitable than the same saltpeter, increase the proportion of calcium, sodium and magnesium, if necessary, add dolomite flour, chalk.
When making nitrate (nitrophoska, lime nitrate - calcium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc., phosphorus, molybdenum are added.

It is worth paying attention to the introduction of fresh manure, bird droppings. Mature manure is not as active, but it should not be applied in large quantities, and also in autumn. The ratio of two types of fertilizers is also important: the dominance of one of them leads to a lack of the other, which adversely affects the development and fruiting of plants.

Mulching: fact or fiction

Mulch - many copies have been broken in disputes about the dangers and benefits of sawdust. The main message is that they inhibit growth as a result of soil acidification and a decrease in nitrogen content.

The feasibility of their use is debatable. Let's try to give proof from the point of view of applied biochemistry. So, as a result of decomposition, the mycelium of basidial fungi settles in the wood together with satellite fungi (penicilli), which feed on the products of wood destruction. It is the satellite mushrooms that contribute to acidification.

But that's not all. As the cellulose is destroyed, the mycelium of the fungus dies off. As a result of its decomposition, ammonia is released - natural alkalization occurs. As the penicilli leave, a new population of imperfect fungi grows - for example, the genus Haplographium, Sporotrichum, which are active ammonifiers.

• Do not use fresh sawdust, shavings.

  Fresh - means not dried out, from fresh wood, but dark, damp, rotten, as the active process of cellulose decomposition will begin. The best thing is to let the raw material rot, or mix and let it brew with nitrogen preparations (1 g per 1 liter of sawdust).

• The alternation of layers is practiced - part of the plant (leaf litter), part of the sawdust, when watered with infusion of mullein, Baikal, mixed with ash.
• To speed up the process of alkalization, urea is added to the sawdust, etc.
• To compost the chips, they are poured into a box or compost pit, pour urea - the concentration of the solution is 10 g / 10 l of water. The mixture should stand for about 2-4 months, protecting it with a film from drying out. So, this can be done in the fall - by spring the chips will be ready for use.

As for the mineral component, the main trace elements are potassium, sodium phosphorus, the situation is more complicated. Calcium ions block the absorption of calcium and potassium chloride. Excess calcium leads to calcareous chlorosis. A lack of potassium is detrimental - delayed ripening, top rot in tomatoes and other problems, but an excess of it also leads to an imbalance.

If you decide to engage in agricultural business seriously, and the question arose of choosing the soil for growing raspberries, then by reading articles that, due to their format, reveal the question, let's be frank, superficial, you will have to start reading literature written by professionals. And also to make a laboratory analysis that determines the scheme of further actions.

Autumn is a wonderful time, which pleases with a variety of colors, but is also considered the most favorable time to prepare for planting work in the garden or suburban area.

Experienced and avid summer residents primarily pay attention to raspberries. Those who want to get a rich harvest of healthy berries in the season need to replant or plant it in the autumn season.

The question of when is the best time to plant raspberries is relevant every year. Planting raspberries in many ways depends on climatic conditions and seedling variety each region.

If the raspberry variety is early, the buds are visible in September, if late, then in October.

Planting or transplanting raspberries must be completed before the onset of frost, and better for a month. This time is enough for the shoots to take root well.

In the south and in southern regions The best time to plant is mid-September to early October. Young seedlings have time to take root before frost, winter well and begin to actively develop in the spring.

For northern regions Siberia and the Urals, landing should be carried out in early September. And sometimes it’s not even worth doing this process at all.

This is due to the fact that autumn is mostly rainy, cold and protracted. Plants do not have time to take root, and as practice shows, they often freeze out.

As for the middle lane, Moscow region favorable time for planting - autumn and spring. Choose only for you. But keep in mind that autumn planting is much better, the plant can produce a crop in summer.

Raspberries must be planted in open ground from the first half of September to the 20th of October. The plant will have time to develop the root system, as a result of which it will endure the harsh winter remarkably.

Planting raspberry seedlings for further cultivation must be completed a month before the onset of frost

It is not recommended to plant early and slightly frost-resistant varieties before winter, they have a very low survival rate.

Every summer resident should keep an eye on the weather, as every year autumn brings new surprises, so planting times may vary from previous seasons.

What is the best period for planting: September and the first half of October, but in some cases the first half of November.

The guideline for transplantation is the period of biological dormancy, that is, at the end of leaf fall., so every summer resident should keep a close eye on the plant.

If the planting dates are missed, and the seedlings are purchased, you need to take care of their safety until spring. You can save by the following methods: storage in a cool place, digging into the ground and snowing.

Basement storage and digging- these are the most common methods, but what is snowing?

snowing- this is a way to save seedlings on the street. That is, the seedlings are well packed and dug under a good layer of snow.

Snow has the advantage of keeping the temperature around the live stems from dropping.

How to plant: step by step instructions

A step-by-step guide to landing in the autumn season is no different from a regular landing. For planting, only annual shoots are needed., which grew from adventitious buds on the roots of the plant.

Young shoots are dug up, the roots are examined, if they are damaged and diseased, they are removed. For a successful landing, you must follow some rules.

Select only the strongest and best shoots. Choose powerful bushes with strong and healthy root shoots. The thickness of the root must be at least one centimeter. Pruning of a new plant is carried out at the level from the root by about one meter.

Where is the best place to plant and grow: for planting choose the most illuminated place in the summer cottage. Raspberry belongs to light-loving plants, it does not grow well in the shade.

Prepare the soil, dig, loosen and remove all weeds.

It is better to plant raspberries in a trench way, that is, in rows. Planting should be such that each planted plant does not obscure the previous one. The distance between rows should be at least two meters.

The instruction is simple: dig a hole about 50 cm in diameter and 30 cm deep. The distance between plants should be at least 50 cm. Half a bucket of manure and 50 grams of superphosphate with potassium sulfate must be added to each hole.

After the prepared soil, you can begin to carefully remove the bushes and transplant them into the finished holes. Each planted plant must be tied to pegs.

Landing watch the roots of the plant, they need to be straightened so that they do not look out on the surface of the earth.

After landing raspberries need to be trimmed so that about 20 centimeters of the trunk remain above the ground.

Don't forget to water. Water each bush with a bucket of water. For three days, the plants must be sprayed with a spray bottle.

Don't Forget Mulching. It must be made with rabbit droppings, sawdust, peat or chopped straw. Mulching will make it easier for shrubs to grow and prevent weeds from growing.

After all the activities carried out, check the quality of the fit. Gently pull each bush, if it lends itself to pulling out, it should be transplanted otherwise it will freeze in winter.

If, when planting raspberries, you followed all the necessary rules, then for the next summer season you can harvest a generous harvest of raspberries.

Benefits of planting raspberries in the fall:

1. In autumn, raspberry seedlings can be purchased at an affordable price.
2. Large selection of planting material. Plants are sold with the last leaves, sometimes with fruits, which makes it possible to look at the yield of purchased planting material.
3. Easy care in autumn. The weather will provide moist soil. Despite the fact that at this time the plant is at rest, its roots continue to grow. During the planted plant will have time to take root by the first frost.
4. Saving time during the summer season. In autumn, there is not much work in the garden, so you can devote enough time to planting raspberries.
5. The opportunity to get a good harvest in the summer.
6. Almost 100% survival rate of raspberry seedlings in autumn.

Proper preparation of seedlings

The choice of planting material is a crucial moment you need to know exactly what to plant. Experts recommend choosing healthy bushes with three mature stems and a developed root system.

Before boarding them pruned so that the length of the seedling does not exceed 30 cm.

Where to plant: choosing a good location and growing soil

A place for raspberries is preferably sunny and protected from strong winds. Raspberries are able to grow in partial shade, but this affects the amount of the crop.

With a lack of sun, the shoots begin to stretch, which leads to the placement of buds on unripened shoots (tops). Such buds will die in severe frosts and therefore the plant will have to be completely removed.

The soil for raspberries must be fertile and at the same time drained., it should hold moisture well. Light loamy soil is ideal, sandy and sandy soils are also suitable.

How to plant in an open field

As soon as we decided on the landing site, picked up the seedlings, it's time to figure out the methods of planting.

Planting method in rows or row, enough convenient way grow raspberries, but labor intensive. This type of planting is used by many gardeners. In turn, the method is divided into two types: trench and pit.

trench method- labor-intensive, but effective. This is due to the fact that all plantings equally receive nutrients and evenly bear fruit.

During planting it is forbidden to use nitrogen fertilizers. This type of top dressing negatively affects the development of the root system and wintering of the plant. At the bottom of the trench, it is desirable to put manure with the addition of superphosphate.

If the plot with fertile land, then manure is not needed. Use ashes as fertilizer: it will not only enrich the plant with useful substances, but also improve the taste of berries.

Watch the roots of the plant, they should not be tangled, carefully straighten them so that they are horizontal on the ground. Shake the sprouts so that the soil covers the roots evenly.

Pit method- effective, many still call it bush. Pits must be prepared in advance a week before planting.

They are made about 40 cm deep and in diameter. The distance between rows is at least 1.5 meters, and the distance between bushes is up to 1 m.

The bottom of the pits is filled with a fertile layer, which must be loosened when planting. It is necessary to plant seedlings carefully so as not to damage the root system. Compact the soil around the seedling, water abundantly.

Bush method no less popular. The bottom line is that the bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. During the year, the bush grows.

After a few years, you can already notice more than a dozen developed healthy shoots. Weak shoots are cut out every year. Thanks to this method of planting, raspberry bushes become fluffy.

A container with a cut off bottom is dug into the ground, filled with fertile soil. This method does not allow overgrowth to grow., so the place next to the raspberries can be used for other plants.

The correct distance between raspberry bushes and rows

Raspberry bushes should be planted with an interval of at least 70 cm between the bushes. As for the rows, there should be a distance of at least 1.5 m between them.

This is considered optimal distance, which will make it easy to care for the plant in the process of active growth. It is recommended to plant no more than two shoots in each hole..

Such a planting will allow the plant to receive the necessary amount of sunlight, which will lead to abundant fruiting and growth.

Planting raspberries in autumn:

Care after landing

Plant care must be constant, especially for only planted seedlings. It is necessary to provide favorable conditions for the development of the root system and wintering.

You can protect young roots from freezing. At the first frost, cover the root system with sawdust or foliage.

The frame will create a dry air space for raspberries, as a result of which it will protect it from the first frosts, north wind and snow. In early spring, the polyethylene is removed.

If the bed with seedlings is small, you can cover each plant individually.

Raspberries are a plant with healthy and tasty berries. It does not require special care, specific watering, it is enough to follow some rules to get a good harvest in a timely manner.

Raspberries can be found in almost every suburban or household plot. This culture is not considered particularly capricious and whimsical. Nevertheless, to get a good harvest of tasty and extremely healthy berries, it is necessary to properly care for the shrub. The prerequisites for abundant and high-quality fruiting are laid even at the stage of preparation, arrangement of raspberries and planting seedlings.

The choice of time and place for planting raspberries

Most berry bushes can be planted in the ground in autumn or spring. Raspberry is no exception in this regard. It is impossible to say unequivocally when exactly to plant young plants. Everything is determined by the peculiarities of the local climate.

In the warm southern regions, which are characterized by late and mild autumn, local gardeners prefer to plant raspberry bushes from late September to mid-October. At this time, the heat is gone. Seedlings have time to take root well before the cold weather, in the spring they will not need additional time for this and they will immediately actively grow. In the middle of summer, the first harvest can be expected. But there is always a risk of freezing young plants, because they are not yet strong enough.

In a warm southern area, raspberries are planted before winter.

Only in the most extreme cases, when it was not possible to deal with bushes in the fall, they are planted in the spring (late February or early March). Planting dates are extremely short, as spring in the south is fast and hot, almost immediately turning into summer. Planted shrubs may not have enough moisture for normal development. They quickly throw out the kidneys, not having time to really form the root system. The percentage of survival in spring seedlings is significantly lower.

In regions with a cold continental climate, harsh and long winters that come early can ruin plantings, especially if there is little snow, so most garden work is postponed to spring. After the snow cover has melted, when the positive temperature is stable (not lower than +5 ... + 7 ° C) and the soil warms up sufficiently, planting material can be prepared. Raspberries are planted from the end of April until about mid-May, trying to be in time before the start of sap flow and bud opening. Usually, the earth is well saturated with melted snow waters, but if the spring turned out to be hot and dry, then the raspberries should be watered regularly and plentifully.

In the northern regions, it is better to plant raspberries in the spring.

AT middle lane the specific time of planting is determined by the winter hardiness of the variety. Frost-resistant varieties can be safely planted in the fall. With less winter-hardy species, it is better to wait until the heat of spring.

To organize a raspberry tree, you need to select open, well-lit places that are protected from strong gusty winds and drafts. The culture tolerates light openwork penumbra, but in some varieties, the taste of fruits is sharply reduced and the plants themselves are far behind in development. It is not recommended to choose sites located on steep slopes or hills, since moisture is poorly retained there and the shrub will suffer from its lack. Dislikes raspberries and excessive moisture. It reacts extremely negatively to the proximity of groundwater. If the aquifer lies closer than 1 m to the surface of the earth, then the seedlings may die from a lack of oxygen or from the appearance of rot on the roots.

Raspberries should be planted where the snow melts faster

Confirmed by the experience of more than one generation of gardeners that perfect place for placing raspberries is a place along the fence, and it is better on the south side. Suitable areas near the walls of various outbuildings (bathhouse, barn, etc.), as the buildings protect the bush from cold northern winds. In these places, the snow should melt faster in the spring and the soil should warm up.

It is best to plant raspberries along the fence

In our area, raspberries grow in one row in the direction from west to east along the neighbor's fence on the north side, but at some distance from it (about 1.5 m). The fence is made of profiled sheet, which has a light gray protective coating and reflects light well. Raspberry does not lack lighting and feels great. The place turned out to be a bit damp, but the shrub is planted on a high ridge and moisture stagnation does not threaten it.

Preparing the soil and pits for planting raspberries

Crucial importance in the organization of raspberries is given to the proper preparation of the soil. The landing site must be carefully prepared and it is better to do this in advance. The earth needs to be dug up to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, while choosing root shoots and rhizomatous plants. All manipulations are carried out in advance, at least 2-3 weeks before the expected day of disembarkation, so that the earth has already settled and compacted. When spring planting raspberries, everything preparatory work carried out in autumn.

A place for planting raspberries must be prepared in advance

Best of all, raspberries grow on moisture-intensive, well-drained sandy and loamy fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. If necessary, the earth is deoxidized by adding fluff lime or dolomite flour. Acidity is determined in specialized laboratories or at home using litmus paper (available at any gardening store).

When growing raspberries on sandy soils, you will have to regularly apply organic fertilizers (humus, manure, etc.) and water more often, since sandstones do not retain moisture well. You can make a pillow of clay substrate at the bottom of the planting tank or ditch. Peat soils enriched with sand in advance (4 buckets per 1 m 2). In heavy clay soils, it is recommended to equip the drainage layer of large gravel, stones or broken bricks.

Humus and fertilizer must be applied to the pit or trench

It is advisable to treat the soil with insecticidal preparations to destroy the larvae of harmful insects (May beetle, wireworm, etc.).

Pits or trenches for planting are prepared as follows:

• dig a landing hole or ditch of the required length, 0.45–0.5 m deep and about 0.5 m wide;
• coarse plant remains (stems, tops, bark, branches, etc.) are placed at the bottom of the ditch;
• then lay out a layer of small vegetation (cut grass, straw, etc.);
• top place a soil mixture of garden soil and humus (compost), taken in equal proportions, with the addition of wood ash.

Organics (3–3.5 kg) or mineral fertilizers (nitrate or urea - 15 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g) are added to the pit under each bush. It is better to combine fertilizers, applying them together, but in half the dose.

Selection and preparation of raspberry seedlings

It is extremely important to choose the right planting material. The health of the entire raspberry and its fruiting will depend on the quality of the seedlings.

It is very important to choose the right planting material

• The plant should be young with an average thickness of stems (5-8 mm), on each of them at least 3-4 healthy buds. The shoots are shortened, leaving about 25–30 cm.
• The bark on the stems is brown, shiny and smooth, without damage, knots, cracks and various doubtful spots. Peeling bark indicates that the bush is old.
• The root system is branched and fibrous, well developed (at least 15–25 cm long), healthy (without rotten or parched areas).

A good raspberry seedling should look healthy.

Before transportation, the root system is wrapped with a wet cloth and placed in a plastic bag. m. Long-term content in polyethylene is unacceptable, since tender roots may begin to rot. Upon arrival at the place, the seedling must be dug in immediately. In the air, the plant can stay for more than a day, since the roots of raspberries are extremely sensitive to drying out. For better preservation, you can dip the root system in a clay mash. It is prepared from clay, which is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream, and a small amount of mullein is added.

Immediately before planting, the roots are moistened with water or briefly lowered into an earthen solution (½ a bucket of fertile soil is filled with water to the top). If the seedlings were dug out a long time ago, then they need to be soaked in water for 5–6 hours, and then the root system should be treated with any root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Zircon, Epin, etc.).

You need to purchase planting material only from reliable suppliers with a good reputation. You should not be fooled by cheapness and buy seedlings on the market from completely unfamiliar sellers.

Our neighbors have very good large and sweet raspberries. They dug shoots right in front of us and we immediately planted them in the right place. This option for purchasing seedlings is optimal, it guarantees the varietal purity of planting material.

How to plant raspberry bushes

There are several various options planting raspberry bushes.

Bush

The bush method is most often used by gardeners and summer residents; it involves planting raspberry bushes in pits. Preliminary preparation of the site in this case is optional, all fertilizers are applied directly at the time of planting. The method is convenient when there is no room for an extensive raspberry tree, and several bushes are planned to be planted in different places.

The bush method of planting raspberries is the most common

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Area marking is in progress. Between rows leave about 1.5–2 m, between adjacent plants - 0.7–0.9 m.
2. Holes are dug with a diameter of 0.5–0.6 m and a depth of 0.5 m.
3. A bucket of humus (compost), superphosphate (30–35 g), and potassium salt (20–25 g) are poured onto the bottom of the hole. All components are well mixed with the top layer of fertile soil.
4. A seedling is placed in the center of the hole. The root system is carefully straightened and distributed throughout the space of the hole. In order for the earth to evenly fill the free space between the roots, the bush must be lifted several times and shaken a little while the hole is falling asleep.
5. The filled hole is compacted and a recess is made around the entire perimeter for irrigation. The growth point should be at ground level.
6. Abundantly watered.
7. Mulch with sawdust, mowed grass, peat, straw, etc.

With the bush method, a raspberry seedling is planted in a hole

Video: the process of planting a raspberry seedling

Trench

The option of landing in trenches is considered more time-consuming and lengthy. Most often it is used in the industrial cultivation of berries in large volumes. Its main advantage is that the raspberries are evenly fertilized from the very beginning. Therefore, the quality of fruiting will be higher, the yield increases several times.

Trench planted raspberries are fertilized more evenly

The landing process consists of the following steps:

1. Marking is carried out on the selected area. They drive in pegs in the corners, pull a rope or cord over them.
2. A trench 0.4–0.5 m deep and about 0.5 m wide is dug along a stretched cord.
3. Between adjacent trenches leave at least 1.2 m.
4. At the bottom of the ditch, a nutrient layer 10 cm thick is laid from dry foliage, mowed grass, tops, etc.
5. At least 10 cm of fertile garden soil or peat is poured over organics.
6. Seedlings are placed on top with an interval of 0.4 m.
7. The ditch is successively sprinkled with earth, carefully holding the plants.
8. The soil is compacted and watered.

Dig a trench according to the markup

It is more convenient to work together with a partner. One person holds the bush vertically in weight, and the other fills the trench with earth.

Video: trench method of planting raspberries

container

For plots with a small area, some gardeners practice planting raspberry bushes in various containers without a bottom. It can be a large plastic bottle (without a neck), a metal bucket or barrel, a capacious saucepan and other old containers with a diameter of 0.45–0.5 m and a height of at least 0.5–0.6 m. The container is buried in the ground, then filled with fertilized fertile soil mixture.

Planting raspberries in containers is especially suitable for small areas.

The walls of the vessel prevent the uncontrolled growth of overgrowth. When watering and liquid feeding, the nutrient moisture remains inside and does not spread around.

In tires

original and interesting option The container planting method is planting in old car tires, which also prevent the spread of raspberries outside the territory allotted to it. Large diameter tires from a truck or tractor are better suited.

You need to act as follows:

• dig a hole to a depth of about half the height of the tire;
• the sidewalls of the tire are cut off (optional);
• a tire is placed in the recess so that its edges are 10–15 cm above ground level;
• the internal volume of the tire is filled with a soil mixture of humus (garden compost), wood ash, garden soil and mineral fertilizers;
• raspberry bushes are planted in the center (up to 3 pieces);
• generously watered and mulched.

Raspberries planted in old car tires look very original.

The tire beads retain moisture during watering and prevent liquid top dressing from splashing.

The raspberry bush looks like a kind of berry flower bed.

There are never any problems with finding landing tanks, since any motorist always has this stuff in abundance. At each tire shop, the sufferer will be happy to supply old tires. The fact is that the disposal of used tires costs money, so the masters are not averse to saving a little and getting rid of rubbish at the same time.

Video: raspberries in old car tires

Tape

Planting with ribbons involves the formation of rows (stripes) of raspberry bushes. With this method, individual plants are located closer to each other than with the bush. They are placed at a distance of 0.3–0.5 m, while the aisles, on the contrary, are made wider - 1.5–2.5 m. With such a dense planting, the strips fill up faster with shoots and the beginning of full fruiting accelerates.

When tape planting raspberries leave very wide aisles

Unlike the trench method, the tapes are usually made wider (from 0.4 to 1 m). In a dug trench, seedlings are placed in several rows (3-4). The yield of such strips is much higher, but it is also more difficult to care for them.

On the trellis

Some tall raspberry varieties can grow up to 3 m. To prevent branches from falling, they must be tied up. The shoots need strong support, because they can break from the wind or under the weight of ripening fruits. Most often, the stems are fixed on a trellis, it is recommended to build it simultaneously with the organization of the raspberry. This must be done before the leaves bloom, otherwise you can accidentally break off the sprouts that have appeared.

Raspberry shoots need to provide reliable support

It is done like this:

1. Along the edges of a row or trench, edge posts (wooden bars, metal pipes, pins, etc.) are mounted, about 1.8–2 m high.
2. Intermediate supports are dug between them every 4 m.
3. Reinforced twine or steel wire is pulled along the poles at three levels (50.100 and 150 cm).
4. Each shoot with the help of ropes, clothespins or other devices is tied to the lower horizontal stretch. Between adjacent branches try to maintain approximately equal distances.
5. As the stems grow, they are fixed higher.
6. The tops of the shoots are shortened to about 2 m or folded and tied to the upper horizontal.

The formation of raspberries on the trellis allows you to distribute the branches evenly, while they are better illuminated by the sun's rays and well blown with air. Thickened and poorly ventilated plantings are more vulnerable to various fungal infections and are more likely to be attacked by pests.

The trellis holds the shoots and prevents them from falling

There are other options for supports for raspberry bushes: stake - a support stake in the center and branches are tied around it, fan - shoots are bred to the sides and fixed to posts dug in on both sides.

Each sprig of raspberries is tied to a wire

On our site, we built a double trellis. To do this, 4 metal pipes 2 m high were driven into the corners of the raspberries, intermediate supports were placed between them. Each middle post is equipped with three metal crossbars about 0.4 m long (at a height of 50, 100 and 150 cm), a steel fixing wire is stretched along their edges. The raspberry branches are caught between two triple horizontal rows of wire that support them and keep them from falling. Separately, each shoot does not need to be tied up.

Under the film

The root system of raspberries is superficial and does not tolerate drying out at all, so the ground under the bushes must be mulched. This allows you to keep moisture in the root zone longer, reduce the intensity of irrigation and prevent the germination of a large number of weeds. Any plant residues are used as mulch: tops, cut grass, leaves, hay, sawdust, etc. However, over time, all organic matter decomposes and it has to be added again. Mulch can be washed away by rain and carried by the wind.

The film retains moisture under the raspberry bushes and prevents weeds from growing

Recently, when planting raspberries, non-limiting mulching materials have been used: polyethylene film or agrofabric. The bottom line is that the prepared piece of land is covered with a film, which is securely fixed around the entire perimeter (with pegs, brackets, etc.). Holes are cut in the spread cover, where raspberry bushes are planted. A similar technology is used in the cultivation of strawberries.

Film mulching is often used when growing raspberries in large volumes.

Planting raspberries under the film provides for the organization special system drip irrigation, which is mounted under the film coating.

Nettle planting

Experienced raspberry growers call nettles young shoots, which already in spring form in abundance around the bushes. Shoots can appear at a considerable distance from the mother plant, it all depends on its age and variety.

Some varieties of raspberries are characterized by increased shoot formation.

Raspberry nettle is a young shoot near the bush

Nettle must be cut off from the feeding root, dug up with an earthen clod and, avoiding drying, planted in a new place. With good watering and maintaining constant humidity, after 7–10 days, small seedlings will already start to grow. You can transplant nettle with a piece of rhizome without a clod of earth. At the sprout, pinch the top of the head and cut the leaves in half, then dip them into a solution of a root formation stimulator. Green shoots are planted in very moist soil (in the mud). At first, seedlings are recommended to be shaded.

Video: propagation of raspberries with nettles

Raspberry breeding and planting technology

A healthy mother bush can be propagated in several ways. The technology is somewhat different depending on the type of planting material chosen and the method of planting.

As a material for planting use:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• shoots.

seeds

The seed method is the longest, usually only experienced breeders use it. At the same time, varietal qualities may not be preserved.

For sowing, you need fresh raspberry seeds

Sequencing:

1. Ripe berries are ground, then squeezed through a sieve or gauze.
2. The resulting cake is poured with water and mixed well. High-quality seeds will settle to the bottom of the vessel, unusable ones will float.
3. The water is drained good seeds dry in the shade.
4. Then the grains are mixed with sand and sown to a depth of 5–6 mm in bowls with a moist, light soil mixture composed of fertile garden soil, coarse river sand and peat (in equal parts).
5. The container is covered with a film or glass to create a mini-greenhouse and put in a damp, slightly shaded place. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed.
6. Moisten crops about 1 time in 5-7 days.
7. After the formation of a pair of true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate small pots.
8. After a few days, the seedlings are moved under a film cover or into a greenhouse.
9. Seedlings can be planted in open ground after the root system is fully formed.

Seeds can be obtained from your berries or bought in the shop

During the entire time of growing raspberry seedlings, it is necessary to carefully inspect the crops for the appearance of pests or signs of disease. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to harden seedlings in the fresh air.

Raspberry seeds are sown in a bowl with a loose substrate

To increase germination, raspberry seeds are advised to stratify. They are mixed with wet sand and poured into a linen bag. Store for 4 months at a temperature of +2 ... +4 ° C in containers with sphagnum moss, periodically moisturizing (every 2 weeks).

cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is much faster.

A cutting is called a small segment of a rhizome or a young branch, which, under favorable conditions, develops into an independent separate plant.

Raspberries can be propagated by cuttings

There are several types of cuttings:

• green;
• lignified;
• rhizomatous.

You can cut raspberries in different ways

Cuttings in summer and spring

In late spring and summer, raspberries are planted using green cuttings.

The technology is like this:

1. Fresh young shoots are cut and cut into pieces 7-8 cm long. Each of them should have at least 3-4 buds.
2. At the lower ends of the cuttings sharp knife make several superficial longitudinal incisions about 3 cm long.
3. Then the planting material is kept for 12–14 hours in a solution of a freshly prepared root-forming preparation.
4. At the same time, the temperature should not fall below +18 ... +20 ° C, otherwise the survival rate will be low.
5. The cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or under a film in a prepared soil mixture of peat and coarse sand (1: 1). They are placed at intervals of 10-15 cm.
6. In the greenhouse, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature within + 22 ... + 24 ° C and high humidity substrate is about 92–94%. This will require regular abundant watering.
7. Rooted cuttings are watered less often and not so abundantly. The ventilation time is increased.
8. After 10–14 days, rooted cuttings, together with a clod of earth, are transplanted to a permanent place.

Green cuttings cut from young shoots of raspberries

The following year, young plants will give the first harvest.

cuttings in autumn

In late summer and early autumn, young shoots become woody and acquire a dark brown hue. After the leaves fall, they can be used for propagation.

Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall

The sequence of steps is as follows:

1. The stem is cut into pieces of 25-30 cm.
2. Wrapped in paper, put in a canvas or linen bag.
3. A cloth bag with cuttings is placed in a wooden box filled with wet sand. Keep until the end of winter in a cold room (basement, cellar).
4. At the beginning of spring, the planting material is taken out, the lower cut is renewed with a sharp knife and left in the root former solution for 10–12 hours.
5. Then rooted in a nutrient solution (1 teaspoon of sugar per 1 liter of melt water). The jar is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a warm place (+24…+26 °C).
6. After the roots appear, the cuttings are planted in separate containers with earth.
7. Before planting in the ground, the seedlings are hardened, first by gradually lowering the temperature in the room, and then taking them out into the fresh air.

Raspberry cuttings are rooted in a nutrient solution

Features of root cuttings

It is best to harvest root cuttings in autumn Yu. To do this, use the rhizomes of adult raspberry bushes, which are transplanted or simply uprooted. Healthy strong roots with a diameter of at least 3–5 mm are selected, cuttings 12–15 cm long are cut from them. Then they are placed in a box with wet sand and stored in the cellar until spring.

Root cuttings are harvested from the rhizome of an adult raspberry

If harvesting is carried out in summer or spring, then chopped pieces of roots can be planted in the ground immediately. They are laid in grooves 5–7 cm deep, sprinkled with soil and watered abundantly. When sprouts appear, the plants are seated.

On the roots of raspberries there are a large number of dormant sprout buds, it is this feature that underlies cuttings with parts of the rhizome.

Video: planting raspberry root cuttings

Root shoots (layering)

It is easier and more reliable to propagate raspberries with shoots from roots that already have their own formed root system and easily adapt to new conditions. When root suckers reach 15-20 cm in height, they can be dug up and transplanted. After a couple of days, small bushes take root well and continue to grow. Shoots with a height of more than 40–50 cm should be shortened to 15–20 cm. This will stop the development of the offspring upward so that the root mass grows and dormant buds awaken. If this is not done, then the stem will stretch in height, will not have time to release replacement shoots and may die.

Raspberry propagation by root offspring is considered the simplest and most reliable.

Autumn transplantation of root offspring is carried out with the expectation that they should have time to take root well before stable frosts.

Propagation by root cuttings is the least troublesome and completely free way. On your site, you can always dig up more than a dozen young, ready-made seedlings over the summer and provide them with yourself, all your neighbors and relatives. There is a minimum of effort involved.

Rules for planting remontant raspberries

Remontant varieties of raspberries can be planted at any time: both in autumn and in spring. However, it is believed that the autumn time is preferable for this, because with the onset of heat, the bushes immediately begin to actively develop and in the summer they will give the first good harvest. When planted in spring, fruiting will be later and not very intense.

Remontant raspberries are more demanding and capricious in terms of illumination, as well as the degree of moisture. When grown even in light partial shade, the berries will ripen later and will not be as sweet. Insufficient watering will directly affect the size and number of fruits.

Remontant raspberries should be planted in a well-lit place

The landing rules are as follows:

1. The soil should be neutral or very slightly acidic. If necessary, it is deoxidized with dolomite flour, fluff.
2. Ridges are prepared in advance. For 1 m 2 when digging, the following are added: humus - 2 buckets, potassium sulfide - 1 cup, superphosphate - 1 cup.
3. Bushes are planted in pits or trenches 0.5–0.6 m deep and 0.5 m wide. Plants are placed at a distance of about 0.5–1 m from each other, row spacing - at least 1.2–1.5 m.
4. Fall asleep and compact the soil.
5. Plentifully spilled with water - 5-6 liters per 1 bush.
6. Mulch with bark, plant debris, cut grass, etc.

Not having the appropriate knowledge at the right time, we planted remontant raspberries in the shade of a large apple tree. The berries on it are noticeably less tasty and sweet than those of ordinary raspberries growing nearby. Although the bushes grow and develop well.

Industrial planting of raspberries

For planting raspberries in large areas, root suckers are used, which are specially grown in nurseries. To accommodate raspberry plantations, gentle flat slopes (slope no more than 5 °) are selected, which are protected from the prevailing winds. But protective plantings should not obscure the berry bush.

Raspberries are grown commercially

Work is carried out in autumn or in early spring. When plowing, fertilizers are applied to the ground at the rate of 1 ha:

• organic - 150 tons;
• potash - 0.3 t;
• phosphorus - 0.2 tons.

Landing is carried out by a belt method using special machines (SLN1 and SSHN3) according to the scheme:

• row spacing - 1.5–2 m;
• distance between seedlings - 0.3–0.5 m;
• embedment depth - 0.2 m.

Then young plantings are mulched with peat - 15–20 tons per 1 ha.

Planting raspberries is carried out using special planting units

The industrial cultivation of raspberries in our country is now poorly developed. But in the days of the Soviet Union, large raspberries were in every nursery. After harvesting, ordinary citizens were launched on the plantations, who could pick up the berries left on the bushes and then buy them practically for nothing.

Video: an industrial method of planting raspberries under a film

Raspberry compatibility with other plants when planting

Proper agricultural technology does not always guarantee a good harvest. The fruitfulness of the berry plant is largely determined by the neighbors growing nearby - companions. It is highly not recommended to place raspberries and strawberry beds in close proximity to each other. These crops have common diseases and pests that are successfully shared among themselves. In addition, the root systems lie at the same depth, which makes them competitors in the struggle for nutrients.

Raspberries do not feel well and fruit poorly next to cherries, even if they grow at a distance of 4–5 m. Currants and sea buckthorn impoverish raspberry plantings, taking away nutrition. Therefore, they are not good neighbors either. Raspberry bushes do not like to grow after tomatoes or potatoes; it is better to wait 2–3 years for planting in this place. Marigolds, nasturtium, radish and parsley negatively affect the development of shrubs.

There are compatibility tables for various fruit and horticultural crops

The neighborhood of the raspberry next to the apple tree, pear, plum, honeysuckle and barberry is considered optimal. Garlic, onion or red elderberry planted nearby will scare away pests from raspberry plantations.

The best predecessors will be cereals or legumes. They will saturate the soil with nitrogen, and also make it looser and more nutritious.

Even the not very close location of plantings of raspberries and strawberries adversely affects both crops. On our site, they are located at a distance of about a meter from each other, and they adjoin in very small parts, almost only at the corners. In a damp summer, gray rot that appears on strawberries is instantly transmitted to raspberries. As a result, we are left completely without berries.

Care for raspberry seedlings after planting

Post-plant care consists in observing a number of simple rules:

• Immediately after planting, young bushes are watered abundantly, the procedure is repeated after 2-3 days. In the future, humidification is carried out, focusing on the weather.
• The ground around the seedlings must be mulched with sawdust, straw, pine needles, peat or compost with a layer of about 4-5 cm. This will help retain moisture in the soil for a longer time.
• If the planting pit was well filled with fertilizers, then it is not necessary to additionally feed the plants. In autumn or next spring, you can use organic or mineral complex fertilizers.
• After planting, all branches are shortened to 20-25 cm to stimulate the formation of fresh shoots.
• Build a trellis for tying the stems.
• Periodically remove weeds and loosen the ground under the bushes.
• As a prophylaxis of insect pests, spraying with Karbofos or colloidal sulfur is carried out.

Raspberry seedlings after planting need to be well watered.

For preventive treatment, you can use folk remedies. An infusion of tansy (0.4 kg of dry inflorescences per 5 liters of water) and garlic (0.3-0.4 kg of crushed cloves per 10 liters of water) helps well.

Successful selection of a place for raspberries, the correct soil preparation technology, healthy strong seedlings and strict adherence to planting rules are a guarantee of obtaining fruitful bushes that will delight you with abundant fruiting.

8 minutes to read

Raspberries are often called the queen of the garden. This name is well deserved, because it is one of the most popular berry crops grown in household plots. Raspberry has earned the love of summer residents because both sweet fragrant berries, leaves, and even shrub twigs are used in cooking. However, the plant is picky in planting and care. Consider how to plant raspberries in the summer.

Plant features

Raspberry is a perennial deciduous shrub. In one place, this representative of the genus Rubus can grow for 5-8 years or more, without losing high yields. Remontant varieties are distinguished by the fact that they bear fruit several times a year.

Reference. An interesting feature raspberries is that the berries appear on lignified stems of the second year. After fruiting, the branch dries up. A year later, new replacement shoots grow from the rhizome.

After 5-7 years at the raspberry bush at the base of the last year's shoot, instead of two or three, only one bud sprouts. The more years the shrub, the less fruit-bearing replacement shoots it forms. Therefore, the bush needs rejuvenation. And in order to always have fresh raspberries on the table, the gardener needs to know how to properly plant and care for her.

fruiting raspberries

A characteristic feature of most varieties is its ability to grow rapidly:

• the root system can take a diameter of about 4 m, and the depth of the roots is 1.5 m. This property helps the shrub to better tolerate drought, but adversely affects the yield;
• in summer, adventitious roots form many weak buds in the form of tubercles, from which root shoots grow by the next season. They are cut with a shovel by 5-7 cm. If you do not prevent the appearance of such shoots, the quality of fruiting will decrease.

Varieties and groups of raspberries

Depending on the degree of density, raspberry varieties are divided into three groups:

• the first group includes the varieties Gusar, Skromnitsa, Meteor, Indian summer. They can be planted quite close, as the shrubs are distinguished by a moderate amount of overgrowth. The number of replacement shoots in most cases equals the number of fruit-bearing stems;
• the second group includes varieties that are characterized by a rare growth of shoots. Such shrubs have a loose appearance - these are Hercules, Maroseyka, Pokus;
• the third group consists of varieties that abundantly give young shoots. Shrubs of the Heritage variety, Polan will need to be thinned out.

Raspberry propagation

Raspberry varieties Hercules

Propagating a shrub vegetatively is available in several ways:

1. The division of the bush. This procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break or at the end of the season after leaf fall.
2. Root offspring. In autumn, planting material with well-developed roots and bud rudiments is chosen.
3. Young offspring. In summer, raspberry shrubs are propagated by cuttings in the first decade of June.

Important! If the gardener does not want to destroy the shoots and use it more rationally - better way than using it to propagate raspberries is hard to imagine. But in order to get healthy and strong bushes, you should clearly follow some rules for planting raspberry cuttings: choosing a place, preparing the site and cuttings, and planting technology.

Choosing a place for planting raspberries

In addition to the fact that raspberries prefer places well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, you need to take into account some more nuances of choosing a site:

• it is undesirable to place raspberries in the beds where strawberries, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes were previously planted;
• it is not recommended to breed perennials again on those soils where there were old raspberries;
• a favorable place is the soil after harvesting parsley, dill, onion, garlic, legumes, calendula;
• it will be extremely successful to place young plantings in the area after the alkaloid lupine - it perfectly cleans the soil from the beetle, which causes irreparable harm to the raspberries.

Site preparation

The soil for raspberries must meet the following conditions:

1. The composition of the soil is light loam.
2. Groundwater - no deeper than 1.5 m.
3. The earth should contain a large amount of fluorine and calcium.

Raspberry varieties Heritage

Before planting under raspberries, a nutrient soil mixture is prepared:

• 10 kg of humus or compost;
• 400 g of ash;
• 100 g of superphosphate;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Planting material, whether it be shoots or root cuttings, must be prepared:

1. Old, weak and damaged roots should be cut off.
2. Treat the cut points with crushed charcoal.
3. Cut off the top of the seedling - the shoot should be no more than 20 cm long.
4. All leaves on the shoot are removed.
5. The stalk is placed in water for a while, before planting, shake and straighten the remaining roots.

Reference. To propagate a favorite variety, a gardener needs only one single lignified shoot, green offspring or root cutting no more than 10 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter. If there is a choice, it is preferable that the cuttings are larger and already have buds.

trench preparation

Raspberries are planted in rows in trenches. The distance between seedlings is kept 50-80 cm, between rows - about 1 m. The trenches are prepared in the following sizes:

• width - 60-70 cm;
• depth - 40-50 cm.

Row aisles are mulched to keep weeds out. Sometimes it is enough to throw sheets of old cut linoleum there. In the future, this will greatly simplify the care of raspberries.

At the edges of the rows, columns are dug in, between which 2-3 wires are pulled. Later, raspberries will be tied to them. A third of the trench is filled with prepared nutrient soil mixture. After planting the seedlings, the remaining volume is covered with a layer of fertile soil.

Planting raspberries

Raspberry cuttings can be planted in several ways. The simplest is planting seedlings of 2 pcs. in one landing hole:

1. The cuttings are immersed in the ground to the depth of the thumb.
2. After planting, the earth is not recommended to be compacted, the soil around the seedlings is slightly pressed.
3. Each cutting is tied at the top to a stretched wire. In the future, you will need to tie up the shoots growing from the roots.
4. Watering requires moderate, mainly in dry weather.

If there are few cuttings, they are advised to use them as sources of sprouts, which are subsequently rooted. For this:

• when the cuttings begin to peek out of the ground, they are spudded and the nutrient mixture is poured on top to a thickness of 2-3 cm;
• when the sprout grows above the ground and gives 2-3 leaves, it is cut off at the level of the appearance of the cutting;
• cut sprouts are planted in the ground to take root.

At the end of summer, the shoots of the first year can be propagated by dropping the tops. For this, a special nutrient substrate is prepared from peat, compost and wood ash. Pots are molded from this mass, which are installed on a gutter at a height of 20-30 cm above the ground. The stem is tilted to the pot and the top is planted there. Plantings need to be watered.

Propagation of raspberries by layering

For faster rooting, the stem is wrapped in a plastic bag:

1. The bottom of the bag is cut off, one side is tied to the pot.
2. Pull it over a sprig of raspberries and tie around the stem.
3. Such wrapped nurseries are watered 2-3 times a week without removing the package. To do this, water is poured into the gutter.

In the last decade of September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother bush. It is planted without taking it out of the nutrient pot. This type of reproduction gives top scores than rooting the top directly in the ground. From a sharp bend, the branches often break, the cuttings take root worse, and the raspberries themselves develop poorly.

If weather conditions do not allow cuttings to be planted directly in open ground, they can be rooted in protected ground. To do this, the nutrient substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat, sod land, sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Planting depth in a box is about 3-5 cm. Care consists in regular watering.

Raspberry care

In the year of planting, due to the nutrient-rich soil, raspberries do not need top dressing. Of the mandatory agricultural practices for care is the provision of irrigation during dry periods.

The formation of a bush begins when the planted shoot reaches 15 cm in length. At this stage, it is pinched for the first time. When the newly formed shoots grow by 20 cm, they are pinched again. The third pinching is carried out as soon as the stems of the third order stretch to 20 cm. Subsequently, a well-branched shrub is obtained, which is capable of producing about 3 kg of berries.

An adult plant needs pruning. The shrub has a two-year fruiting cycle. The shoot of the first year does not produce a crop. Berries appear in the second year of life, after which the stem dries up, and other replacement shoots grow. Pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The bush is carefully examined to highlight 6-7 strong young shoots.
2. The rest must be cut to the ground.
3. After harvesting, the fruiting shoots are removed.

Important! In the process of sanitary pruning in early spring, no more than 15 cm of the top is removed. The middle part of the shoot produces less fruit than the top. The lower part of the stem practically does not bear fruit.

Raspberry roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so they do not dig the soil near the shrub. Loosening the soil is carried out only in the aisles. After that, mulching is performed.

Raspberry propagation by cuttings

Plant residues of crops, freshly cut grass, compost, humus are used as mulch. The layer is made thick, sparing no raw materials. Such mulching retains moisture well and protects the roots from overheating on hot summer days.

Fertilization

Fertilizer is applied under raspberries in spring, summer and autumn.

1. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, fed with urea, ammonium nitrate. The procedure is carried out before mulching. For 1 square meter of raspberries, 8 g of fertilizer is required.
2. In summer, during flowering, a mineral complex containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is introduced; after fruiting, potassium-phosphorus top dressing is carried out; at the end of the growing season, raspberries need phosphate fertilizers.
3. In autumn, green manure is used as a fertilizer. Clover, white mustard are planted in the aisles of raspberries in the middle of summer, and after harvesting in the fall, the mowed green mass is embedded in the soil.

Organic fertilizers are a good help. In the spring, raspberries can be fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). Bone meal is applied under bushes in summer. At the end of the season in trunk circles pour wood ash.

By adhering to such simple rules, you can get a good fruit-bearing bush in a few months. Choose high-quality planting material, root it correctly, apply enough fertilizer - and your garden will always have an excellent raspberry crop.

Raspberry planting (video)

https://youtu.be/FWQ8ST-_jBo

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Raspberry like any other garden plant, has certain features of planting and care, which must be taken into account when placing bushes in the garden. Planting raspberries in the spring, carried out correctly, will allow you to get healthy and productive bushes that will delight you with large and juicy berries.

From this article, you will learn how to properly plant raspberries on the site, and what soil and climatic conditions must be provided for the culture for full growth, development and fruiting.

How to plant raspberries

Raspberries are one of the most popular garden crops, and their berries contain many useful substances. But in order for the bushes to consistently bring a rich harvest, you need to properly plant and choose a place to place the bushes.

Below we will describe the most suitable periods for planting raspberries in open ground, as well as give the main methods of planting and the rules for preparing the soil for the future shrub.

Planting dates

When growing raspberries, it is important to observe the timing of planting in the ground. The culture tolerates both the spring and autumn procedures well, but the period must still be chosen, guided by the climate of your region.

In the southern regions, autumn is warm and long, so the crop can be planted from September to early October. Before the onset of cold weather, the plants will have time to take root and get stronger, and in the spring they will actively grow.

Note: Autumn planting is considered preferable, as it allows you to get an earlier harvest.

In the south, the plant is not recommended to be planted in the spring. In such regions, spring passes quickly, and summer heat sets in, which young seedlings do not tolerate well. In addition, in the spring in the southern regions there is not enough moisture, which can cause growth retardation and even death of young plants.

In temperate climates and northern regions, everything happens the other way around. Spring is considered best time for transfer to the ground, since at this time the soil is sufficiently saturated with moisture, and the seedlings have time to fully take root and form a strong root system before winter. If you spend it in the fall, the culture will not have time to get stronger before winter, and it will freeze.

Terms

In temperate climates with warm autumns and snowy winters, raspberries can be planted in both spring and autumn. Preference should be given to autumn planting, but only if the climate is mild enough and autumn is long. Only in such conditions will the plants have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

Regardless of the timing of planting, the culture needs to create optimal conditions for growth.(picture 1):

• Choose a well-lit area, as the plant does not like to grow in the shade. If the bed is too little lit, the shoots can stretch out, and in some cases even stop fruiting.
• Almost any soil is suitable, but the culture feels best on chernozems and light fertile loams.
• The site is desirable to choose a flat. Moisture often stagnates in the lowlands, which can cause root rot, and on the hills the plant will not have enough water.

Figure 1. Basic landing rules

Raspberries deplete the soil quite strongly. Therefore, every 5-7 years it needs to be transplanted to a new site. In addition, it cannot be planted in a garden where potatoes, peppers or tomatoes were previously grown, and cereals and legumes are considered the best predecessors.

Choosing a place for the future raspberry

You need to choose a place for raspberries carefully. First, the site must be protected from the north wind. Secondly, it should be well lit by the sun. If the culture grows in the shade, its shoots will stretch too much, and the fruits will be small.

It is desirable that the soil on the site be light and fertile. But raspberries grow well on black soil and even on sand. But if the site is predominantly sandy soil, the bushes must be fertilized annually with organic top dressing.

Preparing the ground

Soil preparation depends on the timing of planting (Figure 2). If it is planned for autumn, a month and a half before that, rotted manure, potassium sulfate and superphosphate should be added to the soil.

Note: On heavy clay soils, more manure is needed (about 30 kg per square meter), and peat soil is supplemented with sand at the rate of 4 buckets per meter.

Figure 2. Preparing the soil for planting raspberries

Preparing the soil for spring planting is a simpler procedure. Immediately before planting the seedlings, the top fertile layer of soil is removed, mixed with manure and the holes are filled with the prepared mixture. If it is not possible to prepare the holes in advance, fertilizers are applied directly into the pit, immediately when the seedling is planted.

Basic landing methods

Raspberries grow in bushes, so one of several planting methods can be used for this crop: in rows, bushes or in separate containers (Figure 3).

The most convenient is the ordinary method of growing. In this case, the seedlings are placed in long trenches at a short distance from each other, forming a kind of hedge.

Figure 3. Main planting methods: row, bush and in containers

The bush method is also popular. In this case, the seedlings are placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. So the plants get more space and form lush and productive bushes. However, with this method of growing, the shrub must be pruned annually, removing weak and damaged shoots.

For small areas with limited space, the method of growing in containers is well suited: plastic pots, buckets, barrels or even old tires. At the container, you need to cut off the bottom and lightly dig into the ground. The interior space is filled with fertile soil and seedlings are planted. With this method, space is saved on the site, since other crops can be grown next to raspberries, and the root system of the bushes is limited to the space of the container and does not spread over the site.

Planting raspberries in spring seedlings

Novice gardeners are often interested in how to plant raspberries in the spring, and whether there is a certain step-by-step instruction procedures. In fact, planting in spring and autumn is carried out according to the same technology, the main thing is to strictly follow the rules of agricultural technology and properly prepare the soil for growing seedlings (Figure 4).

In advance, you need to choose a site for a garden bed and prepare the soil on it. If necessary, sand, organic and mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. The technology for planting raspberries in the spring with seedlings will be described in more detail below.

When to plant raspberries in the spring, in what month

Holes and trenches should be prepared in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. The planting of the seedlings themselves is carried out later, when stable warm weather is established.

It is advisable to plant before the start of frost. The culture has good resistance to low temperatures, and spring frosts rarely damage its shoots. In addition, an early spring procedure is necessary so that the plants have time to fully acclimatize and take root before autumn.

Location selection

The site should be fairly open, but it is desirable to protect it from drafts and cold winds. For example, you can plant bushes at some distance from a hedge or building.

Figure 4. Planting seedlings in open ground

It is important that the raspberry is well lit by the sun. If there is not enough light, the shoots will become too long, the fruits will become small. In addition, the plant quickly forms young roots and shoots, and over time it can independently move from a shaded area to a more lit one, inhibiting other crops.

Land preparation

Soil preparation depends on the season. If the landing is planned for spring, immediately after the ground thaws, it is necessary to dig the required number of holes (50 * 40 * 40 cm in size), setting aside the upper fertile layer.

Note: The distance between the holes should be approximately 50 cm, and between the rows - up to one and a half meters.

Fertile soil is mixed with humus (10 kg), superphosphate in granules (100 g), wood ash (400 g) and potassium sulfate (50 g). Part of the earth is poured back into the pit, the rest is left until planting.

If it is scheduled for autumn, the pits begin to be prepared one and a half months before the procedure. The entire site is deeply dug up and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied. If the soil is peat, sand is additionally added (4 buckets per square meter). You can start planting seedlings in September or early October.

Seedling preparation

In order for planting in open ground to be successful, you need not only to properly prepare the soil, but also to select suitable seedlings.

Seedlings with two or three strong shoots and a well-developed root system are suitable for planting. If you do not plan to plant a seedling immediately after purchase, it must be dug in moist soil or covered with a wet cloth to prevent the roots from drying out.

When planting seedlings, they cannot be deeply deepened into the ground, since this will slow down the growth of the culture. But shallow planting is also not recommended, in which the roots begin to dry out.

How to plant raspberries in spring: video

The technology for planting raspberries in the spring is shown in detail in the video. From it you will learn how to properly prepare the soil and seedlings, as well as what features should be considered when planting.

Planting and caring for raspberries in the open field

Raspberries, like any other garden crop, need some care, which depends on the season (Figure 5). For example, in the spring you need to remove all fallen leaves from the site, as it may contain pathogens and pest larvae.

Note: Bushes grow very quickly, so in the spring they must be tied to supports.

Further culture care is standard. The soil must be regularly freed from weeds and its surface layer loosened, and the soil around the bushes should be mulched to stop the evaporation of moisture and the growth of weeds. In addition, it is annually fed with liquid nitrogen fertilizers.

No less important events are held in the fall. The main task after harvesting is to provide the bushes with comfortable wintering conditions. To do this, the old layer of mulch is removed and burned, and the soil around the bushes is gently loosened (no deeper than 10 cm). Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied in autumn, as they will provoke the growth of young shoots, the bush will weaken and will not be able to endure the winter.

Figure 5. Raspberry care in the open field

Watering is carried out only during a severe drought, since natural rainfall is quite enough for this crop, even if the rains are not too plentiful. In addition, in spring and autumn, the bushes need to be cut. In the spring, frozen and damaged shoots are removed, and in the fall - two-year-old branches that will no longer bear fruit.

Planting remontant raspberries in spring

The main difference between remontant raspberries and ordinary raspberries is in the early onset of fruiting. In fact, having planted such a crop in the spring, next summer it is already possible to harvest. But in order for the culture to bear fruit abundantly, certain rules and features of planting and caring for it must be observed (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Planting remontant varieties

Firstly, remontant varieties are even more demanding on soil fertility and lighting than ordinary ones. Therefore, the site should be well lit, and the soil, if necessary, is additionally fertilized with organic and mineral top dressing.

Land preparation

Soil preparation begins in early spring, shortly after the snow melts. To do this, dig small holes 40 * 40 cm in size and at a distance of 70 cm from each other. In this case, the row spacing should be about one and a half meters, so that the bushes have enough space for growth.

It is desirable to fertilize the soil with organic and mineral top dressing. This will allow you not to apply fertilizer during the growing process.

Seedling preparation

Preparing a seedling is also an important step in growing. At good seedling the root system must be developed, and the diameter of the lower part of the shoot must be at least 5 cm.

Note: To check the viability of a seedling, it is enough to cut off one soil from it. The bark underneath should be green, not brown.

It is advisable to immerse the roots of the seedling for a day in a solution of a root former. When transferred to the ground, the seedling is buried in a hole so that its root collar is at ground level. Then it is sprinkled with earth, slightly compacted the soil and watered.

Landing pattern

Planting remontant raspberries can be done in several ways (Figure 7). Most gardeners use the ordinary method. In this case, seedlings are planted in trenches or individual holes arranged in rows. The main thing is that the distance between the bushes should not be less than 40 cm.

Figure 7. Scheme of planting remontant raspberries in the ground

In addition, it can be planted in any order, by the bush method. But, if there is not enough free space on the site, you can plant seedlings in old buckets, barrels or other containers without a bottom. So the root system will not develop too actively, and the bushes will not independently spread around the site, while maintaining their yield.

From the video you will learn how to properly plant remontant raspberries.

Planting remontant raspberries in autumn

Autumn is considered the best time to plant remontant varieties. If you spend it in September or early October, the seedlings will have time to take root by the onset of cold weather and get stronger before the new season.

As in the case of the spring procedure, the autumn one includes certain rules for preparing the soil and seedlings, although in general they are similar.

Land preparation

Unlike planting ordinary varieties in the spring, a site for growing remontants is prepared in the spring.

Firstly, the bed on which raspberries will be placed in the fall must be carefully dug up and organic and mineral fertilizers added to it. Secondly, the site must be freed from weeds and fallen leaves, which may contain pest larvae or pathogens.

Seedling preparation

Remontant raspberry seedlings are prepared for autumn planting in the same way as during this procedure in the spring. The roots need to be damp, so if you bought a seedling but don't plan to plant it right away, it's best to dig it in damp soil.

In addition, you need to check the seedling for viability by removing one kidney. The bark underneath should be green. If the tissues under the bark are dry, the seedling is not suitable for growing.

Tibetan raspberries: planting and care

Tibetan raspberry is still rarely found in the gardens of our country, although it is grown quite often in European countries. In addition to tasty and healthy fruits, it has a high decorative value (Figure 8). To taste, its berries resemble strawberries and blackberries at the same time. But in order to grow this unusual culture in your garden, you need to take into account some of its features.

The basic rules for growing Tibetan raspberries are:

• Seedlings can be planted in any area, as the culture tolerates both light and light partial shade;
• It is important to limit the space for culture growth. Bushes grow very quickly, and over time they can displace not only annual, but also perennial crops;
• In autumn, the entire above-ground part of the shrub is cut off, and in summer the shrub is constantly inspected to remove branches without ovaries;
• In the spring, the bushes must be fed with mullein infusion and special fertilizers for fruit and berry crops;
• In summer, the plants must be watered, because with a lack of moisture, the berries lose their juiciness and taste.

Figure 8. Features of growing Tibetan raspberries

Removing weeds is also an important care step. But keep in mind that the roots of Tibetan raspberries are close to the surface, so weeds should only be removed by hand. In addition, it is advisable to mulch the soil around the bushes to stop the growth of weeds.

Planting raspberries: distance between bushes and rows

When planting raspberries, it is especially important to accurately observe the distance between rows and bushes. This culture needs a lot of space to grow, so the bushes are placed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other (Figure 9).

Figure 9. The layout of raspberry bushes and the distance between them

The distance between rows should be 150-170 cm. Only in this case, the culture will form lush bushes with large quantity fruits.