Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic. How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

More and more people prefer to improve the interior with the help of false ceiling. GKL overlapping is best done in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. Moisture-resistant material is used for sheathing the false ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen. For such purposes, plastic is best suited, since a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels is characterized by a number of positive properties compared to other finishes.

Advantages of PVC panels

Plastic is a common material used directly in the arrangement. This trend is not surprising, since plastic has such positive properties:

  • PVC panel is inexpensive compared to other building materials.
  • Relatively simple installation.
  • High moisture resistance. Plastic does not absorb moisture.
  • The material retains its properties when using cleaning agents.
  • Plastic endures chemical substances without losing their properties.
  • Sheathing a false ceiling with PVC panels allows you to hide the details of the ceiling, improving the appearance of the room.
  • Good soundproofing.
  • Easy installation, which allows you to do the work yourself.
  • An extensive color palette allows you to choose best option suspended ceiling.

Flaws

like anyone construction material, along with the advantages of plastic has negative qualities. The main disadvantages are:

  • Specific smell. After installing the false ceiling, the smell of plastic remains for some time.
  • There is a possibility of deformation with a sharp temperature drop.
  • The impact can damage the plastic.
  • Plastic does not belong to the category of natural materials, so this kind of material is not recommended to be mounted on the ceiling in residential premises.

Important! Plastic is no longer as prestigious as it was when it was introduced to the market, as there are many better materials out there.

Varieties of material

According to the characteristics of plastic, there are three types.

  • White. This type includes unpainted material.
  • Color.
  • textured. A feature of this type is that a special texture is applied to the surface, giving the material a natural effect. Such plastic is much more expensive. The ceiling covering, trimmed with textured plastic, looks presentable and expensive.

Assembly tools

To install the ceiling, you need to prepare materials and tools.

You will need:

  • Profile or bars for the future frame.
  • Plinth. Its direct purpose is to fasten the panels.
  • Dowels, self-tapping screws.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Hacksaw.
  • corners.

Preparatory work

Before installation, you need to perform preparatory work. Without them, the following situations are possible:

  • If a beginner in the construction business does not check the surface, extra materials may be purchased.
  • If the ceiling covering is uneven and there has been no preparation, it is unlikely that the ceiling will be installed correctly.

Important! Gotta follow the rules preparatory work in order to avoid additional expenses and in order to save time and effort.

Frame installation


Stages installation work:

  • Install the frame (wooden or metal).
  • Attach the PVC skirting board to the crate.
  • Install the panels in the plinth and fix them.

Important! If a collapsible plinth is chosen, then the decorative part of the baguette must be fixed last, after attaching the panel.

"skeleton" device

Sheathing of the floor is impossible without fixing the frame. The best option is metal carcass. For the design, it is best to take the ud and cd profile. Such profiles help to quickly create a frame and align it.

To mount the "skeleton", metal is used, since wood is not as durable as metal. The tree is deformed by temperature changes. When choosing a material for the frame, the selection rules are followed, since the durability of the structure depends on the material chosen.

Before installing the suspended frame on the ceiling, markings are made. For these purposes, a level is used. Marks are placed on the wall under the ceiling, along which the guide profile is installed.

You need to fix it with dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material of the walls. (Mounting pitch - 400 mm).

The next step is the installation of stiffeners. To carry out such manipulations, the following steps are followed:

  • The stiffeners are laid in the guide profile. Subsequently, panels will be attached to them. Create a frame perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels.

Important! In advance, you need to determine the direction of laying the panels. To make the seams less visible, follow the installation rules (begin laying the panel along the wall with the window).

  • The carrier profile is cut, focusing on the dimensions of the room. The installation step of such a profile is 500-700 mm.
  • It is impossible to perfectly sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels if the frame is not stiffened.
  • After the frame is assembled, it is fixed. If a metal profile is used, then the first element is installed at a distance of 350 mm from the wall. You must strictly follow this rule, since such an important nuance allows you to give the frame stability.

Panel mounting


The correct design device depends on the direct installation of the first sheet of plastic panel. Before directly installing the panel on the frame of the suspended structure, all parameters are carefully checked to avoid errors. Fasten the panel with staples or self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels must be fixed parallel to the first.


Fixing the PVC panel with screws

Installation of plastic plinth, pros and cons

The meticulous work is the installation plastic plinth around the entire circumference of the room. Sometimes there is a detachable plinth. Its peculiarity is that the decorative edging and the part into which the panel is inserted are supplied separately. At the end of the installation of the plinth, these parts are connected by a latch. If you follow the installation rules, then installing the skirting board will not take much time and effort.

Important! If there is no experience in installing the plinth, in this case it is worth choosing detachable models.


Plastic ceiling plinth

Until recently, there were not so many ways to finish the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The daredevils still dared to glue the ceiling with wallpaper - that's all. And today there are suspended, stretch, mirror, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Ceiling sheathing with plastic panels is the simplest, most economical and fast way finishes.

To date, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, has become a plastic ceiling. Such popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

familiar stranger

Strictly speaking, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling with the help of special suspensions on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Only the material for panels instead of drywall is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and most harmless types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

It is easy to make such a ceiling with your own hands, giving it an attractive look. appearance. Panel seams will not be visible on it, besides, it will last you much longer than the drywall counterpart, and it requires the most minimal care - from time to time to remove dust from the plastic. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, as plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling panels. Although they are made of the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier than ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day, the frame may simply not withstand, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they deform over time, since their mechanical strength is much lower.

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Preparation of the base ceiling

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular plasterboard suspended ceiling. Installation of any false ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start with the preparation of the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring passing through the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before mounting the ceiling, you need to fix the wires and at least bring them to the switch. Wires must be securely insulated. Jokes with electricity are dangerous, so if you do not have enough experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To self-mount plastic ceiling you will need the tools:

  • puncher or electric drill with a drill bit;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • construction knife;
  • roulette;
  • square;
  • rebound paint cord;
  • water level;
  • screwdriver

From the materials do not forget to purchase:

  • antifungal solution;
  • suspensions;
  • dowels (be sure to take the same diameter with a drill with which you will drill holes);
  • plastic panels;
  • ceiling profiles;
  • self-tapping screws.

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Lathing device

The frame for a plastic ceiling can be made from both wooden slats and a metal guide profile. Still, the second option is preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. Here it is better not to rush and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, rushing and setting the wrong profile, you will not leave yourself any other choice but to make the ceiling oblique, which will immediately catch your eye.

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls, the required distance is measured down. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected with a cord into one horizontal line.

Taking the measured horizontal as a guideline, you need to draw the same lines around the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane, so that .

The next step in the installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked border. The profiles are attached directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a puncher or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening.

In order not to break the horizontal line when fastening the profiles, the end of the unattached profile is laid at the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markup, and the profile is attached to the wall along its entire length.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile, you need to fix straight suspensions in increments of 50-60 cm. The suspensions must be fixed strictly along a straight line, breaking it off with a paint cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and guide profiles fixed on the walls are laid at the ends. With this false ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.

Suspended plastic ceiling is one of the most practical and hygienic interior decoration. The material from which plastic panels are made, PVC has a glossy surface, on which microbes and harmful bacteria have practically no opportunity to multiply. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly and does not emit an unpleasant odor.

The listed qualities of plastic often determine the areas of their application. As a rule, these are kitchens, bathrooms, balconies and loggias. Plastic is practically not afraid of moisture and frost. Installing a plastic false ceiling with your own hands is very simple and this work will not cause difficulties even for a beginner.

Before you begin to familiarize yourself with the installation secrets, familiarize yourself with the sequence of operations. The list is simple, but you cannot rearrange the items. It looks like this:

  • ​ Calculation of materials of the suspended structure
  •  Marking the level of the future ceiling
  •  Installation of battens and embedded parts for lighting devices
  •  Installing the start profile
  •  Ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Installing plastic ceilings will require a tricky set of tools that every household master probably has: an impact drill or puncher, a level for marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling (water or laser), a tape measure, a pencil, a ruler, a paint chopping thread, a saw for metal and a hammer.

Important to remember! To speed up the cladding process, it is recommended to use an electric screwdriver with a magnetic cross head.

Calculation of materials for the ceiling

To calculate a plastic suspended ceiling, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe existing ceiling. To do this, multiply the width of the room by its length. You can measure with a tape measure with the help of one partner, which will be needed for other operations.

Add 5-10% to the resulting figure. total area. This is the necessary margin to compensate for the costs of cutting PVC plates. The most popular size is a width of 25 cm, a length of 3 m. However, other sizes can be found on sale.

Can be used as a frame wooden beam 40 x 40 mm or 40 x 60 mm. If the climate is quite humid, then you can use the wall or guiding profile for plasterboard ceiling UD-27 and the supporting ceiling profile CD-60. They are made of galvanized metal and are not afraid of corrosion and deformation from excessive moisture.

The number of UD-27 profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room. The bearing ceiling profile TsD-60 is placed at intervals of 600 mm from each other. 300 mm recede from the edge of the wall and calculate the number of pieces. Usually the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.6. The length of the profiles is 2.5-3m.

To make suspended plastic ceilings look beautiful, you can use as a guide or starting profile PVC profile with decorative plinth. It can be made in a monolithic form, or the plinth can be attached to the profile groove separately. Its amount is also equal to the perimeter of the ceiling plus 3-5%.

In order for the joining of the plinth in the corners to look aesthetically beautiful, the plinth can be cut in a joiner's miter box at an angle of 45 degrees or you can buy ready-made plastic corners. The frame is fastened to the ceiling with dowels at intervals of 50-60 cm. Galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25 mm long are used to fix the PVC plates to the ceiling.

Installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels

Installing plastic on the ceiling begins with markings. First determine the horizontal plane of the future ceiling. To do this, use a laser or hydraulic level. The minimum height of the ceiling can be lowered by the thickness of the beam or metal profile.

If more is required, then the galvanized TsD-60 ceiling profile is hung on straight or U-shaped hangers for plasterboard ceilings. Under the timber, you can put wooden dies.

The laser level is fixed on the wall with a dowel, stepping back from the existing ceiling the required distance. The device is installed in the horizon using its regular bubble levels. When turned on, the laser beam will mark the horizontal plane of the future ceiling on the walls.

Using a paint thread with blue, you need to “recapture” this level on the walls. After that, the axes of the ceiling profiles are marked on the ceiling. To do this, you can use a ruler, chalk and a building corner of 90 degrees.

According to the line marked on the walls with dowels at an interval of 0.5 m, the wall profile UD-27 is mounted. P-suspensions are attached to the ceiling with an interval of 60 cm with dowels. Their perforated legs are lowered down at an angle of 90 degrees. Carrier profiles are attached to them with 12 mm galvanized self-tapping screws.

If it is planned to install an overhead chandelier, an embedded part is mounted on the plastic ceiling on the existing ceiling.

You can make it from a piece of plywood and straight hangers, fixing them in the corners. Having bent the legs to the required height, the part is attached with dowels to. Do not forget to drill a hole in the center of the board and bring the lighting wire into it.

A guide profile along the perimeter is attached to the wall-mounted UD-27 profile with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The plate for plastic ceilings is made in such a way that there is a spike on one side of it, and a groove on the other. The first plate is cut to size and the spike is cut off. After that, it is brought into the guide grooves of the starting profile with a cut spike against the wall and pushed all the way.

With self-tapping screws with a press washer, the first is attached to the ceiling profiles in the upper wall of the groove. The second trimmed plate is inserted with a spike into the groove of the first. In order to reduce the joint between the second panel, they tap the heel of the palm. It is also convenient to do this with a hammer through a wooden plate.

The whole process is repeated until the last panel is laid into the plastic ceilings. It may have to be cut not only in length, but also in width. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the cut, it is necessary to drill holes in the front layer of the plate. It should be the diameter of the screw head.

The self-tapping screws will go in and fix the last plastic ceiling panel. Do not forget to drill a hole for the wire in the plate on which the overhead lamp will be located. The plastic ceiling is ready and if you still have questions, then the video on installing plastic ceilings will help answer them.

Among all the options for inexpensive finishes, there is probably no more versatile material than. They are suitable for decorating ceiling surfaces, walls, and at the same time, they have a fairly impressive list of positive qualities. But not everyone knows how to sheathe walls or ceilings with plastic. This article will discuss in detail the installation of plastic on walls and ceilings, as well as a video demonstrating the installation process.

What is required for work

It is easy to assemble a plastic wall or ceiling cladding with your own hands, and at the end of the material there is a video demonstrating this. To facilitate the preparation and the work itself, there is also detailed instructions, after reading which, incomprehensible moments should not remain.

Before attaching plastic to the ceiling or walls, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of material. This is easy to do - you need to divide the surface area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plank. They are different and specific data on the selected varieties are on the packaging or on the product price tag.

In addition to the coating material, it is necessary to prepare the material for assembling the frame. It can be made from wood or metal profiles. The number of components depends on the type of structure, its complexity and is calculated in each case individually. After the components necessary for installation are purchased and ready for installation, you need to check the availability necessary tool. You don't need too many tools:

  • Hacksaw for metal
  • screwdriver
  • Building or laser level
  • Roulette
  • A hammer
  • In some cases, a construction stapler and a plumb line

After the materials and tools are ready, you can proceed to the next stage of work - surface preparation. In videos that show how to knock out a ceiling with plastic, this stage of work is often omitted, but it is necessary.

Training

This is a simple operation and consists in the fact that the entire area that will be hidden under the plane of the new coating must be treated or impregnated with a bactericidal effect. Such processing is carried out so that mold does not appear under the future coating or fungus does not develop. Before that, all traces of the old finish and peeling fragments of plaster or putty are removed using improvised tools, such as a spatula.

frame

To fix the skin is necessary. Regardless of where the plastic will be mounted - on the ceiling or on the wall, such a frame is required. Without it, there will be nowhere to attach fragments of the coating, and in the video below, which demonstrates how to hem the ceiling with plastic, attention is also paid to the frame.

The distance between the elements of the crate is from 30 to 40 centimeters. At the same time, if installation is carried out on the ceiling, the distance should not exceed 30 centimeters - otherwise, the coating may sag under its own weight.

Mounting panels on the wall

After assembling the base or crate, you can begin to fix the details of the outer coating from plastic panels. This process is slightly different from how plastic is mounted on the ceiling.

It all starts with the corner or the final part. As a rule, this is a plastic corner or a special element that covers the end of the part. The first plank of the cover is inserted into it. If the length of the bar reaches the overlap and a solid surface is assembled, a decorative plinth a special shape into which the end of the bar is inserted.

When the first part is installed, it must be fixed. You can do this with a self-tapping screw, clamps or staples from a stapler. Next, the next cover element is inserted, with a protrusion into the groove of the previous panel. You need to insert tightly, until it stops. This is how the entire coverage area is assembled with the obligatory fixation of each detail.

It is inserted with force, one side into the final corner or end piece, and the other into the previous panel. If necessary, the fragment is adjusted in size to the desired dimensions by sawing off or cutting off the excess part. Below is a video that shows how to mount the plastic on the wall and ceiling - after assembling the crate, these processes differ slightly.

Floor mount

Asking the question - how to make a plastic ceiling, you need to take into account some points of this work. Firstly, it is better to do this work with an assistant - it will be much easier, since everything will have to be done on weight, but otherwise, you can assemble a plastic ceiling with your own hands and there is nothing complicated about it.

Secondly, you need to take into account the distance that will be required to install the fixtures. Their ceiling part should not touch the ceiling. This is an important point, since everything should be taken into account when marking, even before you hem the ceiling with plastic and assemble the crate.

Usually, this distance is about 10 or 15 centimeters. It can be a little more or less, in accordance with the dimensions of the room and the design of the lighting devices, but, in any case, no less than the lighting required for installation.

Next comes the assembly of the frame. It is assembled in much the same way as on the wall, differing only in the shape of the parts used - the end part of the panels is inserted into a plinth fixed to the wall, in which there is a special groove for this. It is installed first, strictly horizontally, according to the pre-applied markings. Here you will need a building level, and even better - a laser one.

After the crate is installed, it is possible to sheathe the ceiling with plastic and in order to make it easier to understand the intricacies of this process, below are several videos that detail all the stages of work.

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various drawings and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, the shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on power. lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates right conditions living in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large numbers in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is represented by almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.


Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, releasing 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a false ceiling made of plastic in rooms with high humidity(bathrooms and kitchens) ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

  • Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
  • Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply not practical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

  • Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
  • Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
  • Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are talking only about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

  • Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
  • Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.


On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

  • The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular ceiling profile made of plastic panels, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
  • Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
  • If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

  1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
  2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
  3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
  4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

  1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
  2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. Important point- the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
  3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
  4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
  5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after complete assembly ceiling to carry out this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, on this stage construction is not completed.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.


Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

  1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
  2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. Cut off from him mounting plate and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.


The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

  1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
  2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
  3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

  • For wooden structures small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
  • In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling individual holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
  • Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires operating from a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.


You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.