wells

Chemical removal of tree growth. How to get rid of stumps on the site

One of the most time-consuming stages of virgin lands development is the removal of trees and stumps. There are several solutions to this problem, I will dwell on each in detail.

Since I am only a theorist so far - I collect and systematize material from forums and specialized publications on arboristry, landscape design, agronomy and agriculture. Due to the lack of practice, it is possible that in the articles on the gardening business some kind of stupidity can get in the way - correct it in the comments.

It makes no sense to dwell on the legal nuances of felling trees, we are all from different parts of the world, but be sure to check if you need a logging ticket or some other kind of permission to cut down.

Felling trees with equipment

You can fell trees and uproot stumps on the site with a tractor, bulldozer, backhoe loader - any heavy equipment, provided that such machines can drive into the territory. With tall specimens (from 10 meters), the work is phased: sawing side branches, crown, trunk in parts. If there is a “clear field” within the fall radius, then they do without preliminary sawing. This is done by climbers who specialize in removing trees. Tree removal by machinery is not always the fastest, but the most expensive way.

Preparing trees for uprooting with an excavator: cut down closer to ground level, as the machine will dig in the stump. With manual uprooting, the stump can be left up to 2 meters, it will be a lever, but this applies to trunks up to 50 cm in diameter. The excavator immediately throws the stump into the truck, otherwise it will not be easy to solve the problem with roots and stumps of half a ton or more.

Pros:

The main advantage is that you save your health and time. You can proceed to the next stage of development of the site immediately. Any tractor can immediately load stumps into the back of a truck.

Minuses:

Heavy equipment leaves behind furrows, rams the soil. Not every site can be accessed with an excavator.

Stump grinder, pnedrobilka

Penkogryz, stump grinder, stump grinder, milling machine, stump crusher - equipment of varying degrees of "severity". Choppers can be both a tractor attachment and manual machine. Each model has its own restrictions on the penetration of the cutter into the ground (up to 30 cm). Particularly preferred is the method for crushing fresh log cabins. Works quickly, but does not uproot side shoots of the root. If soil is brought to the site for backfilling, then the remaining roots should not become a problem at the planting sites. Under the foundation of the future garden house all roots must be removed.

Pros:

No need to worry about pickup or disposal. The shavings can be used as mulch.

Minuses:

Pnedrobilka for rent can be taken far from everywhere. The price of a good stump miller is $15,000.

Removing trees and stumps with a winch

An unwanted tree is dug up, cut down or filed with roots and taken out with a winch - lever, manual drum (in simpler cases), manual hoist on a tripod. The winch is a traumatic mechanism. Its cable (chain) must be very strong, otherwise a cable that breaks from tension can be hit on the legs, or even on the head. This happens more often than we would like.

Before cutting the roots with a chainsaw, it is necessary to wash them with water under good pressure, since sand and small pebbles quickly dull the saw chain, and sharpening is an expensive business. Or chop with an axe.

Pros:

The method of uprooting stumps with a winch is one of the most economical in terms of price, labor and time.

Minuses:

You need some experience with such mechanisms, you need to apply physical force.

Uprooting a stump by hand is quite feasible, but this process is labor-intensive and long. In the course is a shovel, crowbar, ax, chainsaw. Of course, it all depends on the branching of the root, the diameter of the trunk, the age of the tree.

Standard scenario for self-uprooting a stump:

We dig the stump with a shovel in a circle.
We chop accessible roots with an ax.
We hook the stump with a crowbar, lever, pipe and pull it out of the ground.

How to get rid of a stump without uprooting

Chemical stump removal. The longest process of removing stumps on the site is by chemical means. Not always an effective way, but the most hotly discussed on the net. To destroy a stump with potassium nitrate, at least a year is needed with fertilizer added every three months, although the timing is arbitrary.

Treatment with potassium (potassium) nitrate:

Drill some deep holes in the stump.
Fill with clean saltpeter (potassium nitrate, potassium nitrate), moisten the holes. If the water has dissolved the saltpeter, add more.
Cover the stump with a film for 2-3 months, repeat the procedure.
After a year, set fire to the stump, it should burn out to the tips of the roots.

If you get pure saltpeter, not as part of a complex fertilizer, then this method may work. But mostly it's a 50/50 chance. Depending on the age and condition of the tree, the quality of the saltpeter, the time of impregnation and decompression of the stump varies. There are people who burned out all their stumps in 3-4 months, but there are still no way for 3 years.

Minuses:

You can't burn stumps in peat bogs. A very long process that does not guarantee success.

Herbicide treatment of stumps that give regular shoots. The method makes sense to use if the development of the site can stretch for a couple of years. In some tree species, young growth quickly develops from the root, which you do not have time to mow. If the trees are cut down, but there is no time to deal with stumps, you can stop the development of the shoots and accelerate the destruction of the roots with one of the herbicides.

Simple watering with the recommended dose on the canister will not work. There is such an option: dig out one of the roots, 1-2 cm in diameter, cut it off at an angle. Prepare in advance a fingertip (non-leaking bag) with concentrated roundup and put it on the living part of the root. Isolate and leave alone. Within 3-4 weeks, trees and shoots will shed their leaves and wither. By the time of the autumn digging, there will be only rot in the ground. This is real advice from one of the forum members on Forumhouse. A concentration of one part herbicide to three parts water should be effective.

Burning stumps using the "Finnish candle" method

The stump is sawn through below ground level like a pie, with a chainsaw. It is filled with a flammable liquid - it can even be oil waste. It is advisable to give some time for impregnation, especially if the stump is from a freshly sawn healthy tree. Set on fire and burn to the roots.

Manipulations with flammable liquids are recommended to be carried out in the spring, since juices walk along the trunk and carry fuel to the very tips of the roots, if the tree was cut down recently and gives rise to shoots. Kerosene is considered the best fuel, as it is able to penetrate into any pores due to superfluidity.

If you burn uproot, take care of safety. A moat is needed around the fire, just in case, sand and water are needed nearby. The ash from the fire will be used as fertilizer if it is properly sieved and stored in airtight containers.

If you are going to remove a tree below 10 meters, do not cut it down. Dig around the root zone, chop off the roots and the trunk will pull itself with a mass. In this way, the bulk of large roots are pulled out, and the little thing will quickly rot.
Uprooting is most effective on moist spring soil or after heavy rains - the roots will come out easier.
If land is brought to the site, then it is not necessary to uproot the root in the places of future planting of the beds. You can remove the stump just below ground level and dig in.
It is easier and safer to cut down on living trees, so you should not hasten their death - the invited arborist will ask for more for his work, for example, with dry birch. In some situations, dead wood is taken to be felled only with the help of equipment.
If you plan to uproot with a tractor, leave the trunks about a meter away so that the tractor can throw a cable or chain over it.

Destruction of the stump by mycelium

This is the most elegant, "green" way to dispose of unwanted stump. Populate the stump with the mycelium of the same oyster mushroom, mushrooms, and in a few months the mushroom will eat it clean. I have a whole section about mushrooms.

Destruction of the root by pruning overgrowth

The longest option for getting rid of unwanted trees in the garden, but the least labor- and material-intensive. Fresh stumps are cut down below ground level, sprinkled. Cut off or pull out the emerging shoots from a branched root as often as possible, especially the first summer - at least once a week. The very next year, the growth becomes much smaller, since without photosynthesis the roots begin to decompose. It is very convenient and easy to cut thin branches and shoots with a lopper. The acquisition of this tool will pay off handsomely when you begin to care for your garden. It is not so easy to remove the growth with one stroke of the ax, and the chainsaw is very dull on the bush and the soil.

This method is good because there will be no heavy equipment in your garden - keep the fertile soil layer to the maximum. In addition, it is absolutely free. One minus: wait for the result of season two, not everyone has the patience. Here, according to the situation - you can break the beds slowly in the already cleared places of the site and rejoice for the future that the rotting stump will give nitrogen and minerals to your plantings in subsequent years.

Aspen, willow undergrowth is so dense that a brush cutter is not enough. Since the young shoots of these tree species are thin (up to 1.5 cm), you can mow it with a trimmer with special nozzle knife, do not forget to sharpen.

Stumps and trunks can be turned not only into mulch and ash, but also into an art object, garden furniture, barbecue, path between the beds.

Path

Stool
Saw cut wood table

If you have your own ways to deal with unwanted trees, share them in the comments, and I will add to the article.

The appearance of stumps on garden plot associated with periodic updates fruit trees, their natural dying off and clearing the site for construction. The presence of woody skeletons reduces the aesthetics of the backyard territory, makes it difficult to move freely and makes it impossible to erect new buildings. Stumps must be removed in order to return the space to its proper look and usability. Only in rare cases can they be left, adapted for a table or an artistically designed flower bed.

There are several ways

The process of removing stumps is not always associated with the use of special equipment and the involvement of specialists. It can be done independently, using only improvised means and materials.

There are two approaches to the destruction of stumps - chemical and physical. Chemical methods (without uprooting) are based on the treatment of wood residues with reagents, leading to their accelerated destruction or complete burnout during combustion. Physical methods (usual manual uprooting) consist in the use of classic tools for work - shovels, saws and axes.

Removal with saltpeter - chemical burning

This approach is universal for the destruction of stumps in most garden areas and adjacent areas. The essence of the method lies in the burning of wood residues impregnated with saltpeter - a strong oxidizing agent. A stump remover (potassium or sodium nitrate) allows you to burn out not only the aerial part of a sawn tree, but also deep roots.

The principle of preparation for removal is as follows:

in the tree, several holes are drilled with the thickest possible drills. The process is carried out in late summer or early autumn;
potassium or sodium nitrate is poured into the resulting perforation to the top, which should then be poured with water to intensify the impregnation of wood;
the top of the holes is closed with pre-cut wooden plugs or wrapped with plastic wrap tightly tied along the tree trunk.

The prepared stump remains in this state until next summer. During this time, the entire root system is saturated with saltpeter and dries up. A fire is built around the stump, which must be maintained until the skeleton is completely destroyed. If the top cut of the stump is flush with the ground, additional recesses can be drilled in it for pouring gasoline or kerosene. The combustible mixture is ignited, initiating the process of combustion and smoldering of hemp throughout the volume. After complete burnout, the place where the stump was located is dug up and covered with earth.

How to quickly remove the stump without uprooting, using saltpeter, look at the video:

For one stump left from a medium-sized fruit tree (up to 15 cm in diameter), about 2 kg of saltpeter is consumed. Its quantity affects mainly not the completeness, but the rate of wood burning out. To achieve maximum destruction of the stump, including the roots, you should wait until the tree is completely dry after winter and spring rains.

For reference, in order to fit 1 kg of saltpeter into a stump, you need to make twenty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, five holes with a diameter of 2 cm or two holes with a diameter of 3 cm (depth - 30 cm). The thicker the drill, the faster the work will go.

Advantages of the method:

minimum physical effort for preparation;
almost complete removal of residues, with the exception of the deepest roots;
ease of implementation;
lack of green shoots from the remnants of the roots in the future.

Flaws:

during impregnation, the soil is saturated with saltpeter. She is good fertilizer, but harmful in large quantities to tuber and fruit crops;
a long wait between preparing the stump and destroying it;
the need to purchase, store and transport chemicals.

The process of burning a stump under the action of saltpeter:

This method should be used with caution in peaty areas to avoid peat fires. The roots of trees can go to a considerable depth, saturated with saltpeter to the very tips. The slow smoldering of the root wood, which occurs with a limited air supply, often initiates a prolonged burning of the peat deposit.

Decomposition by urea

The preparation of the stump with this method is completely identical to the use of saltpeter - the stump is perforated with drills of maximum diameter, and urea (urea) is poured into the holes formed. The top of the holes is filled with water, after which the stump is tightly wrapped with a polymer film. After 1-2 years, the woody remains completely rot, and in their place is a fertile layer of soil.

Do not confuse urea and ammonium nitrate . These are completely different compounds - urea is relatively harmless, while ammonium nitrate is a rather explosive and toxic substance.

Advantages of the method:

minimum physical work;
the soil is not polluted with nitrates;
the stump is completely removed. This makes the site suitable for building, laying out flower beds and planting any garden and garden crops.

Flaws:

very long term stump destruction;
the need to purchase additional materials;
high consumption of chemicals to remove a few stumps.

For reference - to place 1 kg of urea in a stump, you will have to make about thirty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, eight holes with a diameter of 2 cm or four holes with a diameter of 3 cm (30 cm deep). The consumption of urea for removing a medium-sized stump is selected in the same way as when laying saltpeter.

Precautions when working with chemicals:

When using any fertilizer, it is recommended to use protective equipment. Suitable for saltpeter old clothes and hand gloves. When working with urea, you can not use such precautions, but you should not scatter the chemical around the area and take it with your bare hands either.

It is advisable not to plant plants around the removed stumps, the fruits or tubers of which will be eaten. It should also be borne in mind that high concentrations of saltpeter can "burn out" plantings at a distance of 0.5-1 m from the stump, so take care in advance about transplanting the plants that you want to save.

Uprooting a stump with your own hands

You can quickly remove the stump when using a tractor, excavator or puller ( hand cutter). Attracting large-sized equipment can be inconvenient or even impossible due to the presence of a fence, plants and equipped paths on the site. Buying a manual rooter or hiring a specialist with his own tool is a very costly undertaking to remove one stump. To save money and effort, you need to involve one or two assistants and stick to general rules work.

Preparation for the procedure: before removing the stump, it must be cleared of the surrounding earth. To do this, you can go two ways:

excavate the nearest space about half a meter using a small bayonet shovel. So that the soil does not roll back, it is thrown to the side with a shovel tool;
dig a hole with a diameter and depth of about 1 and 0.5 m at a distance of 1-2 m from the stump, equipping a drain (gutter) from the remains of the tree to it. Then the earth around the stump is washed out with a jet of water from a hose. The greater its pressure, the faster access to the upper root system will open.

Extraction of the skeleton using a winch: to get a stump out of the ground, you can tie it along the trunk and roots with a metal cable stretched through a winch. The cable should extend to the winch from the saw cut, thus providing a lever for overturning the stump. The winch is mounted on a firmly fixed pole or other tree.

Mechanical removal: if it is impossible to use a winch, the tree frame can be removed by cutting or sawing off its roots. The specific method depends on the degree of openness of the roots and the availability of access to them with an ax or saw. If it is not possible to expose the root, it can be cut right in the ground using a pick - scrap metal or a thin pipe with an ax welded at one end. A similar tool is often used by janitors, breaking off icing from the asphalt.

After cutting off the side branches, a central post is usually left, which is difficult to approach. It is already turning from side to side and partially rotates around its axis. You can break it with a deep vertical root by active turns and tilts in different directions.

Relatively easy way uprooting a stump without the use of special equipment:

Pros and cons of self-uprooting

Advantages:

minimal cash and financial costs;
high speed of work (the remains of two or three large trees can be destroyed per day).

Flaws:

significant laboriousness of the process;
in some cases, it is impossible to approach the stump and dig a hole of a suitable size (because of the nearby paths or flower beds);
in place of the hemp remain lateral and vertical roots that may interfere with construction;
need for additional helpers.

To remove a small dry stump (no more than 10 cm in diameter), you can break it with a long crowbar using brute force. First, the stump is split in the middle by inflicted blows, and then the formed fragments are loosened with a crowbar, like a lever, breaking off 10-15 cm below ground level.

Precautions to keep in mind

While working with a winch, the extracted stump can jump out of the ground abruptly and fly several meters in the air. Because of this, you should move away from the possible flight path of the tree and remember that a broken rope or cable can also cause serious injuries.

Safety elements when cutting roots:

when using a pick, it is necessary to set the feet wide so as not to accidentally hit them through a layer of crumbling earth;
you can’t get close to a person with an ax or chop a stump together. Follow the rule - one cuts, the other rests;
when working with an ax, one should stand on widely spaced legs so as not to be injured by the tip bouncing off a hard root.

What to be guided by when choosing a removal method?

There are several criteria by which you can determine the optimal approach.

The mechanized method with the involvement of large special equipment is suitable for clearing a building site and requires free space and access roads. The method is suitable for removing a large number of stumps.
The chemical method is suitable for the subsequent construction and renewal of the garden, if there is time to wait 1-2 years. Urea is ideally suited for obtaining a fertile site and has a minimum of negative effects, while saltpeter in high concentrations has a “burning” effect on plants.
Manual removal is used in most situations where a suitable size hole can be dug around the stump. The method requires significant physical effort and minimal financial investment.

A site cleared of stumps can be used much more efficiently than an area with unremoved tree skeletons. Hemp interferes with the full realization of a beautiful landscape composition, with the exception of rare design solutions. In addition to excellent functionality, a well-groomed area is always pleasing to the eye and safe for recreation and running. economic activity. After spending several days clearing the area of stumps, you can long years Simplify harvesting and housekeeping.

– time-consuming and not always safe process. Usually it is carried out by cutting and uprooting. However, recently there have been many other ways to get rid of old, emergency wood. The article discusses the current methods of how to destroy a tree without cutting it down.

How to destroy a tree by adding chemistry to the soil

Adding herbicides to the soil is one of the most effective ways how to quickly destroy a tree without cutting and uprooting. It is mainly used when it is necessary to remove a large amount of wood.

Before destroying tree roots by chemical means, the ground near the plant must be carefully watered. This will speed up the absorption of herbicides into the soil. The liquid is then applied around the desired object to the top of the soil. It is recommended to add dye to the container with the herbicide, so you will see which tree has been treated and which has not yet.

Important!If only a few objects need to be removed from a certain amount of wood, it is recommended to install concrete barriers around them so that the product does not spread to the root systems of other trees and plants. The probability of damage to nearby objects is very high.

When carrying out the process, you must strictly adhere to the instructions for the purchased herbicide and follow all the rules of caution. To prevent chemistry from harming your health, be sure to wear gloves on your hands, and also cover your mouth and nose with a gauze bandage or a respirator. To prevent the substance from getting into the eyes, use goggles or a mask.

If you are thinking about how to water a tree so that it dies, the following drugs are considered the most effective:

"Meister";
"Zenkor";
"Prometrin".

How to destroy a tree by applying preparations to the bark

The application of herbicides to the living tissue of a tree is also effective method quick removal of unwanted wood. It is mainly used for the selective removal of a small number of trees.

The most popular herbicides for bark application are:

"Roundup";
"Tornado";
"Glyphos";
"Arsenal".

"Roundup" –one of the best drugs for use in orchards and places where precious woods are cultivated. It is also great for removing forest species, conifers. "Tornado" mainly used for clearing the garden and deciduous forests. The most effective and fastest in action is considered "Glyphos". However, it is more poisonous. Therefore, it is impossible to stay near the treated objects for a long time, and the collection of fruits from surrounding trees and plants is prohibited for 15 days. "Arsenal" mainly used for clearing deciduous and coniferous low-value species.

Did you know?If trees of the same variety are planted close to each other, it is likely that their roots have grown together. In view of this, with the defeat of one tree, the poison can be transmitted through the roots to another.

Depending on the type of tree and the thickness of the bark, there are three ways to apply the chemical:

over the bark;
through incisions;
through injections.

Application of drugs directly to the cortex

This method is suitable for trees with thin bark. The drug is applied to the surface of a piece of wood, which is located half a meter from the ground. Before processing, the product must be mixed with oil. This will improve its absorption into the bark. The chemical is smeared on the tree until the bark completely absorbs the substance.

The method is effective at any time of the year. If the tree has "wounds" from which a lot of juice flows, it is better to use the soil method or spraying the leaves. This is because the juice will prevent the poison from being absorbed into the wood.

Applying drugs through incisions

If the bark of the tree is thick, simply applying the chemical to the bark is not very effective. Therefore, it must be cut so that the wood tissues are well saturated with the herbicide. Incisions are made with an ax around the entire circumference of the trunk.

Important!The procedure must be carried out in cool weather, without wind and precipitation. At least four hours must elapse for the application of chemicals after rain.

How to destroy a tree with injections

Injection is the safest way to destroy trees for the surrounding vegetation. First, notches are made in the bark, into which the injection apparatus is inserted. The devices are inserted into the bark at a distance of one meter from the ground and 7 cm apart. Injections are best for removing young trees and wood up to 5 cm in circumference.

For the way to give nice results, you need to follow a few rules:

injection tools must create the required level of pressure inside the stem, otherwise the drug will not spread along the plant stem;
the holes through which the procedures will be carried out must be sealed so that the liquid does not leak out;
you need to accurately calculate the dose of the chemical.

Injections are the most economical method of tree removal and will not harm the soil or other plants.

Did you know?Injections contribute to the drying out of the tree due to the detrimental effect on vascular system plants. This method can be used at any time of the year, but it works better and faster in the first half of summer.

How to destroy a tree by spraying foliage

Spraying with chemicals is also one of the easiest ways to kill a tree. It is best to carry out the process in the spring or early autumn. In hot weather, spraying will not be as effective.

The dose of the drug is calculated depending on the susceptibility of a particular tree species to this agent. For spraying, you need to select calm, not windy weather. The first sign of the action of the drug is browned foliage.

Did you know?Oil solutions are most effective for spraying. They are best absorbed by the foliage. At the same time, they are much more toxic than water ones, so you need to work with them very carefully.

If you are interested in how to water a tree so that it dries quickly, experts recommend such preparations:

"Roundup";
"Roundup Max";
"Tornado.

How to remove the stump of a cut tree

After felling, the trees leave behind a not very pleasant reminder - stumps, which not only clog the space, but also prevent planting new plants. The usual way to deal with stumps is to uproot them. However, old large trees have a developed root system, which is firmly entrenched in the ground, and it will be quite difficult to get rid of it. In these cases, chemical treatment will come to the rescue.

Chemical method

There are two methods of chemical treatment of stumps:

cut smearing;
application to bark notches.

This method is used for hardwoods. Processing is carried out in dry weather at a low temperature. A cut of a stump or bark is coated with chemicals with a soft brush or sprayed. A 10% solution of butyl ether is considered a very effective drug. The bark must be processed from the cut to the soil itself.

A common method for removing large numbers of stumps is to treat them with saltpeter. In this case, the ground and root parts are burned out. Holes are drilled in the hemp, into which saltpeter is poured to the top. Then the holes are closed with stoppers. In this form, hemp is left until next summer. During this period, the stump will dry. Then it can be burned. The procedure is carried out in summer or early autumn.

Important!Saltpeter, penetrating into the soil, can damage nearby trees and plants. Therefore, with a dense landing and for selective removal, this method is not recommended.

Uprooting a stump - an old proven way

The downside of using chemical substances when removing stumps, it is that they fall into the soil and can harm nearby trees, especially fruit trees. Therefore, in the orchard, it is better to use a long-standing proven method of uprooting.

For uprooting, it is necessary to dig the soil around the stump for half a meter. Next, the barrel is tied with a metal cable, which is previously pulled through the winch. The winch is attached to a pole or other powerful tree and the stump is uprooted.

If there is no winch, uprooting is done by cutting off the roots of the stump. If the roots are deep in the ground, this is done with a crowbar. Next, the column is rotated around the axis and pulled out.

In addition to the usual cutting and uprooting, a chemical method can be used to remove trees. It is less labor intensive and can be done by one person. However, it should be remembered that nearby trees can suffer from chemicals. But this method is very effective when cleaning large areas.

The main thing you need to do to dry the tree is to follow the instructions for the drug and follow the basic requirements for the process:

use a suitable preparation for ground irrigation and processing of ground parts - they are different;
before introducing chemicals into the soil, the earth must be watered abundantly;
it is recommended to add a dye to chemicals applied to the soil in order to know which tree has already been processed;
processing of the ground parts of the tree is carried out in dry, not hot and not windy weather;
keep in mind that, when chemicals are introduced into the soil, they can damage nearby growing plants;
be sure to read the rules for dosage and dilution of the substance described in the instructions;
all processing procedures are carried out with gloves and a mask (or a gauze bandage, a respirator and goggles on the eyes).

This is the most basic thing you need to know in the question of how to destroy a tree quietly, without cutting it down.

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Spring is not only the right time to plant new fruit trees and shrubs in the garden, but also to get rid of old or unnecessary ones. But, as practice shows: to say one thing, but to do it is completely different! If you have tried at least once in your life get rid of cherry blossoms, maple or bird cherry, then you understand well what is at stake.

The problem is that by destroying the shoots from the tree on the surface of the tree, it will easily quickly give a new one. Other difficult task- uprooting the tree itself with roots. Is it necessary to dig a lot of tunnels or apply other methods.

So, you have old trees growing with numerous shoots that grow and prevent you from growing crops on suburban area. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the removal methods for each individual plant species in order to know in advance what measures should be taken to remove shrubs and trees from your site. We advise you to stock up necessary tools and drugs, as well as patience!

Removing bird cherry from the site

I don’t know why, but in the 80s of the XX century, one or two bird cherry seedlings were often planted on the site. When the site is started, such a culture grows rapidly, creating impenetrable thickets. If you have purchased such a plot or simply decided to say goodbye to tart black berries forever, we recommend using the following methods

The physical method of removing bird cherry

We cut down the tree at the level of 110-150 centimeters from the root. On the trunks, and not at the roots, new shoots should appear. When they grow, they need to be cut, so a tree will not form from them. After three years, hemp, like levers, will turn out of the ground with your own hands without any problems.

Chemical method for removing bird cherry

This is the fastest, but also the most harmful method. For removal, "Hurricane" or "Tornado" is suitable. We spray the trees with a concentrated solution during the formation of green mass. They work on the principle of penetration of poison into the leaf. Then it spreads through the branches to the main trunk, and further to the root system. Note that the plant itself must be completely dry on the vine. And only after that, remove dead wood.

Removing cherries from the site

Get rid of cherries in the area even more difficult than with cherry. The fact is that you need to remove the shoots directly from the main roots-branches of the tree. Otherwise, it will appear in more like a hydra. You will have to apply physical strength - take a very strong bayonet shovel, such as titanium or the Fiskar company.
After digging up the roots, cut off all the branches and coat all the roots with Raudap or Tornado. Do the same with all the growth. We do not cut anything with secateurs! The tree itself can be dug up or cut to the root below ground level.

Removing irgi from the site

Irga is also a hard-to-remove shrub. It is the thickets of shadberry and cherry that can be found in the abandoned areas of the former friendly dacha cooperatives.

Put a bag with a margin on the stump from a sawn thick trunk and tie it around the stump, make a hole in the top of the bag and pour urea, ammonium nitrate or any other nitrogen fertilizer, leave the hemp to rot. Thin shoots cut into a stump. All re-growing shoots from the root, spray with Roundup at a height of 25-30 cm according to the instructions. The maximum effect of the product can be obtained by spraying young foliage.