Counters

How to paint plastic so that the paint does not peel off! We paint garden furniture and check the result in a year. How can plastic be painted and how to do it correctly? Outdoor plastic paint

The usual thing: you need to paint the bumper. Painted. And everything seemed to be done according to the technology: they applied and polished the filler primer, then the base, varnish ... They didn’t forget anything, they even degreased it to the conscience. But despite all the efforts, after a while the paint begins to “slide” off the bumper, like skin after excessive tanning. Who to blame? Paint manufacturer? And here it is not. We forgot that we are dealing with plastic, and it is not so simple with it.

Today you will know

Is plastic easy to paint?

The first requirement for a paint layer applied to a plastic surface is high adhesion to this surface.

But the fact is that initially after casting, the properties of the plastic surface do not at all contribute to strong adhesion to the future paintwork.

Non-polar plastic surfaces create the greatest difficulties in coloring. They have a chemically inert, non-porous surface with low surface tension - and the lower the surface energy of the plastic, the worse its "adhesion" with applied paints and varnishes.

Among all plastics, polypropylene and polyethylene have the lowest surface energy - these plastics and their modifications are considered the most difficult to color.

When painting other types of plastics, problems associated with adhesion are not so pronounced, but this does not make it easier for car repairmen, since it is polypropylene that is the most demanded and used type of plastic in the automotive industry. Almost all bumpers (and these are the main paintable plastic body parts) are made of various modifications polypropylene - usually a dark gray material, solderable and inert to solvents.

Try to take a polypropylene bumper and immediately apply a paint coating on it - what happens? A knowledgeable person will answer right away: nothing good ... And indeed, the adhesive properties of the coating will be very weak. How to be?

In the automotive industry, three main methods are most often used to pre-treat plastics before applying coatings: corona treatment, low-temperature plasma or gas flame treatment.

These operations are very different from conventional surface preparation methods. For example, corona discharge treatment is the effect on the treated surface of an electric discharge, which gives rise to plasma "jets". Plasma processing is carried out by exposing the plastic to a plasma flow generated by a plasma torch, and flame processing is carried out by the flame of gas burners.

The purpose of this treatment is to increase the wettability of the plastic surface, thereby improving its ability to bond with paints. For a surface to be well wetted by a liquid, the surface energy of the plastic must be higher than the surface tension of this liquid. If the surface tension of the liquid (paint) is greater, it will collect into drops instead of wetting the surface evenly. Therefore, all processing methods are aimed primarily at increasing the surface energy of the polymer.

wettability. Machined surface on the left, raw surface on the right

As a result of such processing, changes occur in the surface layer of the plastic: polar molecules are formed in the previously non-polar polymer, which increase the surface energy of the material. The surface at the micro level becomes rough, and its useful area of adhesion to the paint increases.

It is not necessary to explain how complex and expensive equipment is used for these processing methods. Its operation is justified only in large factories, in mass production, but for the conditions of a car service, all this is too expensive and complicated. Because of this, polypropylene has long been considered undyeable.

After brainstorming, chemists have developed alternative, more simple ways preparation of polymer surfaces - the so-called "wet" chemical methods. The most convenient and used of them is the priming of the plastic surface. A special adhesive primer applied to the surface of the plastic serves as an effective intermediary between the polymer and subsequent coatings, and adhesion in some cases may even exceed the factory one!

Now let's leave aside complex chemical formulations and get down to business.

Preparing plastic parts for painting

When starting to repair a plastic part, the first step is to determine which part we had to deal with. It could be:

new item;
old defective coating.

New plastic elements, in turn, can be supplied with a factory primer already applied or in a “clean” form.

If you can't figure out if the part is primed or not, rub a small area of the part with some kind of non-rough sandpaper, such as P500. If there is sanding dust, then the part is primed.

With primed details, there are at least problems, but we will talk about this later. Now we are interested in the procedure for working with "clean", unprimed plastic elements.

New unprimed part

Plastic parts are produced by injection molding, and in order to ensure that after casting the part can be correctly separated from the mold, special lubricants are used during the production process. Naturally, remaining on the surface of the plastic, they do not contribute to the adhesion of the paintwork.

There are two types of such lubricants:

outdoor,
internal.

External lubricants are used in a diluted form and sprayed into the mold before each new production cycle. They are not always applied, but after 3-4 times, so there is more lubrication on some parts, less on others. All of these greases can be removed in the workshop with a suitable degreaser.

Internal lubricants are introduced into the composition of the plastic itself, so there is no need for a separate spraying into the mold. Such plastics are more difficult to dye, as they are "fat" themselves. The same polypropylene refers to the representatives of fatty plastics. Internal lubricants do not dissolve and are not removed by water, and they can be removed from plastic as completely as possible only by heating.

But anyway, the first step to remove contaminants from the surface of the plastic should be washing.

Washing

The ideal solution in this case would be a pressure washer, but in the absence of one, a bucket is quite suitable. hot water with any active detergent (liquid soap, car shampoo) and some kind of brush or hard paint brush.

The part must be washed both outside and inside, and then rinsed with plenty of clean, warm water.

Evaporation

In order to be one hundred percent sure that no lubricants and dirt will interfere with the creation of strong adhesion to the future paintwork, according to the technology, an unprimed part must be heated in a chamber at a temperature of +60°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, the lubricants that are in the pores of the plastic part will rise to the surface, where we will remove them with a cloth moistened with a degreaser. This must be done quickly, while the part has not yet had time to cool.

If the item has a rough structural surface or heavily soiled (for example, an old bumper), it is advisable to repeat the evaporation process. And then - a second procedure with a napkin and a degreaser. For better cleaning of such parts during degreasing, Scotch-brite (gray) can be used.

In addition to removing grease, heating helps to reduce internal stress in the plastic, which can later cause unexpected cracking of the paintwork material. Also, heat treatment helps to identify shrinkage cavities (air inclusions) and then remove them by puttying.

To save camera time and energy, several plastic parts can be loaded and heated at the same time.

In garages, the warm-up trick can be quite difficult, so in such cases it is better to work with already primed parts.

Degreasing

Before the first grinding operation on plastic elements, whether it is preparation for priming or filling, the surface of the part must be degreased.

In addition to the obvious goals pursued by this operation, degreasing also helps to remove a significant proportion of the static charge from the part. This is important, because when applying the primer, the dust, which usually flies off the surface, will quickly stick to the “charged” plastic, as a result of which the primer will lie not on a dry, cleaned substrate, but on an already dusty one.

For degreasing, it is advisable to use only branded degreasers, preferably special ones - antistatic degreasers for plastics. They are not aggressive to plastic and perfectly remove a static charge.

It is recommended to degrease a new plastic element both from the outside and from the inside.

Matting

To prepare a new undamaged plastic element for priming, it is enough to mat it with scotch-brite or similar material. Recommended for rigid types of plastic red(Veryfine) scotch-brite, and for soft / elastic - grey(Ultrafine).

Matting can be done both dry and with water. If a matting paste is used, after it it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the part with plenty of warm water - paste residues can interfere with normal adhesion with paintwork materials, which we have successfully fought so far.

If there are minor damages on the surface during transportation (for example, shallow scratches), then they are polished with a grinder and abrasive wheels P320-P400-P500, after which the rest of the surface is treated with scotch-brite.

After grinding, the part is degreased again.

Padding

Once and for all, one simple rule will help get rid of problems with the adhesion of paints and varnishes on plastic surfaces. As a primary primer on clean (unprimed) plastic, a special adhesive primer for plastic (aka primer, adhesion activator) should be used.

As a rule, such soil is very liquid material, made on the basis of polyolefin resins, often transparent with small additions of metallic particles - to control application. The layer thickness is minimal - only a few microns. Most of these materials are one-component, although 2K primers are also available.

Such primers have been developed primarily for use on plastics of the polypropylene group (PP / EPDM, PPC, PPE, PPO, etc.), but most of them can also be used on other types of plastics: ABS, PA, PC, PVC, PRO, PUR, fiberglass (GFK, BMC, SMC), etc. Modern primers have practically no restrictions on chemical composition plastics, with the possible exception of pure polyethylene (PE).

Plastic body parts (fenders, hoods, bumpers, etc.) are produced in a modified form to improve their properties and guarantee coloring, which means they can be painted, despite the fact that they are sometimes labeled as PP and PE. In fact, unmodified polyethylenes (PE) and polypropylenes (PP) can only be dyed after being activated by a gas flame or corona. Otherwise, adhesion will be very weak! Various cisterns and other expansion tanks, disposable tableware, etc. are made from “pure” PP or PE.

Primers are available both in jars and aerosol cans. Spray primer is very handy for minor repairs, for example, when small areas were sanded down to plastic when sanding a bumper. The release form in a can allows you not to waste time preparing the soil for spraying from the spray gun and its subsequent washing. Remember to shake the can vigorously before use.

The primer is applied in one or two thin even layers with a wide jet over the entire surface of the part. Be careful when applying! Since the material is very liquid, one should be wary of the possible excess of the applied layer and soil runoff (it is most possible at the ends and stiffeners, along the perimeter of the part). A significant excess of the layer thickness can cause a deterioration in the adhesion of the entire coating and "compression" of subsequent applied layers.

It should also be taken into account that after application, the primer changes the chemical state of the substrate only for a certain time, during which the next material should be applied. Therefore, to achieve the best adhesion, it is necessary to start applying the subsequent layers of the system after 15-20 minutes.

Most primers can be directly overcoated with the topcoat, but to increase protection against chipping, it is recommended to additionally apply an acrylic leveling primer to the surface, remembering to add the required amount of plasticizer to it, depending on the hardness of the plastic.

Just remember that such thick layers of primer-filler, as in the repair of metal parts, cannot be applied. Plastic is an elastic material, and an excessively thick layer may simply not withstand mechanical stress and the consequences of deformation.

After applying the filler - painting. Either "", if the soil allows it, or with.

By the way, in addition to the classic primers, in many lines there are also universal primers for plastics, combining the properties of both a primer and a filler with a plasticizer. They have good adhesion to plastic and at the same time allow you to even out minor irregularities (for example, small scratches from abrasive grinding). Such primers do not require prior application of an adhesion promoter and thus in some cases save a whole layer and operation.

About epoxy primer

So, drawing an analogy with anti-corrosion primers applied to metal, and acting as an effective mediator between the surface and subsequent coatings, appropriate adhesive primers are used on plastic for this purpose.

Since we mentioned primers for metal, I would like to speculate a little more on this subject and recall about.

Those who have worked with this material know what excellent adhesive properties it has. And despite its direct purpose for applying to metal, an epoxy-based primer could well be used as a primary material on many types of plastics. However, there are still limitations in this not entirely logical action. The fact is that epoxy primer does not have sufficient elasticity, and a plasticizer is not used with it.

However, if you have to deal with the repair of hard plastics such as fiberglass or carbon fiber racing cars (Carbon fibre), the use of epoxy on these types of plastics is not only allowed, but recommended. You can be sure: its adhesion to the surface will be excellent!

New primed part

Practice shows that the quality of the factory primer coating applied to plastic parts can vary greatly from case to case. There are usually no problems with original parts, but the primer on parts of dubious origin can easily have poor adhesion or increased sensitivity to solvents. It is not difficult to check this: take a napkin or rag soaked in solvent and attach it to the part for a minute or two.

If the coating has softened, it must either be completely removed mechanically(P150-P240-P320), or apply a layer of insulating primer, pretreatment with gray scotch-brite, and then paint.

If a satisfactory test result is obtained, conventional technology is applied. The part is degreased, matted, degreased again and painted. For matting, you can use:

gray scotch-bright (ultrafine);
abrasive material gradation P400-P500 (when working with a dry grinder);
material gradation P800-P1000 (when working manually "wet");

Before starting any work, the part must be thoroughly washed and dried, and before the matting operation, as well as after it, it must be degreased.

Damaged plastic element

Under the repair of a damaged plastic part, we mean the repair of various scratches, dents, chips and similar damage to the paint layer. We will talk about more complex cases of restoring plastic parts, such as cracks or significant deformations, in a separate article.

Before starting work, a standard set of procedures is performed: the part is washed, dried and degreased. The next step is to prepare the damaged areas for puttying.

grinding

Before proceeding with the filling of damages on the plastic part, the paintwork should be removed from the surface of the defective areas - this will avoid such defects as peeling and settling of the putty.

For sanding damaged areas, an eccentric sander and an abrasive wheel of gradation P180 are suitable.

When grinding, try to avoid excessive pressure and high speeds. Remember that thermoplastics begin to melt when heated.

Puttying

Hard-to-reach places are treated with an abrasive sponge (P600-P800) and / or gray scotch brite (Ultrafine).

Painting of plastic parts

It makes no sense to dwell on this stage in detail, since the primed surfaces of plastic and metal are absolutely identical. Just remember to add the required amount of plasticizer to 2K paint or clear varnish.

But on plasticizers and some other additives it is worth dwelling in more detail.

plasticizers

Adding a plasticizer to standard 2K acrylic primers, enamels, and varnishes is necessary for two reasons. Firstly, the additive makes the material elastic, which means that the coating will not crack when the plastic is deformed.

Secondly, when the temperature of the plastic surface changes, the paintwork will expand and contract in the same way as it.

Have you often seen microcracks on the paint surface of bumpers in places that seem to be completely unaffected by deformation? This is a consequence of the thermal expansion of the material and the absence of a plasticizer in the repair materials.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of plastics is much higher than that of metal. Covering enamels and especially primers, whose coefficient of expansion is extremely low, simply cannot withstand large temperature changes without a plasticizer and crack.

An important role is played by the amount of added plasticizer, which is always indicated in the technical documentation for the product. This amount depends on the stiffness of the plastic - the stiffer the plastic, the less plasticizer is added. Conversely, the softer/flexible the plastic, the more.

For example, for painting an elastic bumper, this amount can be 30%, for a soft polyurethane lining - 50%. When coloring fiberglass, the addition of a plasticizer is usually not required.

No plasticizer is added to base enamels!

Mixing sequence

When adding a plasticizer, it is recommended to prepare the material in a certain sequence: first, a plasticizer is added to the base material, whether it be primer, enamel or varnish, and then a standard amount of hardener and, if necessary, thinner are added to the total volume of the resulting mixture.

This sequence is due to the fact that the plasticizer also contains a binder that requires polymerization. And if a hardener is first added to the material, and then a plasticizer, this can adversely affect the drying, strength and performance characteristics of the coating.

Matting and structural additives

A well-polished lacquer or topcoat has a smooth surface and excellent gloss. It is very good.

However, these qualities are not always in demand. The fact is that on some cars, plastic elements may not look as shiny as the rest of the body. Moreover, they may have some texture. Often the plastic bumpers of SUVs are painted this way, many Mercedes plastic linings have such a grainy, as it were, “rough” surface.

Such a surface can be imitated by special structural additives to 2K top coats and clear varnishes. As a rule, they are produced in two types: rough(grob) and thin(fein). As a result of the application of a structural additive, the paint surface becomes matte and acquires the desired degree of roughness.

When adding structural additives, additional addition of a plasticizer is usually not required.

There are also additives that do not change the structure of the surface, but are intended solely to lower the gloss level of the coating. Depending on the amount added, the degree of gloss can be varied over a very wide range, allowing you to achieve a different matte effect - from silky to completely matt.

Drying

For drying painted plastic, it is often recommended to use natural drying or a temperature not exceeding 40-45 ° C. It is worth recognizing that such "reinsurance" is not without meaning. Plastic is better to dry longer than metal, but at a lower temperature. It should also be taken into account that the introduced plasticizers and other additives increase the drying time.

But still, with the right approach to repair, which we discussed in such detail above, more intense heating at 60 ° C will not cause any problems. And the quality of the coating will only benefit from this.

Be careful with IR drying as you can't control the surface temperature of the plastic parts.

About adhesion after painting

Another feature of plastic is that adhesion on it does not reach its normal parameters immediately, but after a certain time. So don't be surprised if an accidental scratch on a freshly painted bumper leads to further "peeling off" of the coating. It will take a few days and adhesion will return to normal.

For the same reasons, try not to high-pressure wash a freshly painted plastic element for 3-4 weeks after repair.

utility

Full-size versions of images will open in a new window when you click on the image!

How to repair plastic parts

Designations of the most common plastics

Classification of plastics depending on hardness

The main modifications of polypropylene and their areas of application in the car

Painting plastic products is not an easy task, because a smooth surface provokes paint to run off. But dealing with it is actually not difficult if you properly prepare the area to be treated and use the appropriate application method. decorative coating. How to paint plastic - we will tell in this article.

General rules for coloring plastic

First of all, it is worth finding out which plastic surfaces can be painted and which cannot. plastic material happens different types depending on the raw materials used in the manufacturing process. Each of them has certain characteristics, due to the unique properties of polymers.

If you need to paint plastic based on polypropylene or polyethylene (PE), then you should not waste your time. The coloring composition will flow over the surface without changing color. From such raw materials are made, for example, metal-plastic. When purchasing them, you need to immediately select the appropriate tone.

Various parts made of plastic are suitable for painting. Such surfaces are divided into two types:

Read also: DIY primer: savings and quality assurance

Requiring preliminary preparation (PVC, ABS);

Does not require treatment before applying paint.

Determine need preparatory work you can on your own. To do this, use one of the following methods:

A plastic part is lowered into a container with water, if it does not sink to the bottom, a primer is needed, when drowning, pre-treatment is not carried out;

If there is such an opportunity, then a piece of plastic must be set on fire, the presence of soot and black smoke indicate the readiness of the material for painting, and if a clean and even flame is found on a burning fragment, a primer must be applied to the surface.

Materials and tools

For execution painting work you need to prepare everything you need:

Priming composition;

Color coating;

Sandpaper of fine fraction;

masking tape;

Spray.

Staining steps

When painting a plastic surface, the following sequence is observed:

The working surface is cleaned of the old protective coating, if there is severe contamination, then it should be washed with soapy water;

After drying, clean the plastic part with fine sandpaper, eliminating minor scratches and other flaws;

The choice of paint for self-coloring plastics

Not every paint is ideal for plastic, if it is not chosen correctly, then when painting, the paint will lie down, distributing unevenly on the surface. You can buy paint for plastic in a special store; it is also sold in spray cans and other containers intended for application with a brush.

Aerosol paints are ideal for plastic, they are sold in spray cans, which makes application as convenient as possible. To work with a spray can, you will not need additional tools, such as a roller or a brush. Such paint remarkably paints objects even in hard-to-reach places.

It should also be noted that this paint dries quickly and is less prone to fading and destructive effects than others. Exists huge selection colors of spray paint, this will make it easy to choose the right shade. Incompletely used paint in a spray can will be stored for a long time, and will not exude a smell.

Having a number of advantages over other types of paints, aerosol also has its drawbacks. The main disadvantage can be called the fact that it is almost impossible to mix colors and get a clear border when painting, it is also impossible to reduce the thickness of the paint.

How to paint plastic yourself

Painting plastic products is not difficult and is very similar to ordinary painting work. Before painting, you should pay attention to the temperature of the paint itself and the plastic product - it should be the same, about 20-23 degrees. And the humidity of the room should not exceed 80%.

It doesn’t matter if the surface is painted with a brush or spray can, remember that the paint should be distributed evenly in 2-3 layers, making more layers - streaks may form. Before applying each layer, you need to let the product dry well, and only then proceed to painting the next one. If the application more layers on the plastic is necessary, then the product should be given more time to dry.

To give a gloss to the plastic surface, a sealant with a special shiny effect is used. Apply it in exactly the same way as the paint, allowing the product to dry completely.

After painting, the plastic must dry at a temperature of 17 to 60 degrees Celsius and a humidity of about 65%. In time it will take 3-4 hours. A thick layer of paint may increase the drying time.

For a complete representation of the painting process plastic products You can watch the video, which details all the nuances of the work.

The fresh look of an old plastic car interior part is not only the result of painstaking work on applying restoration preparations. This is, first of all, their correct selection. Check out the pictures of a bad painting experience where the owner simply applied the paint to one of the interior elements and it immediately crumpled. And yet, a negative experience should not repel self-painting. After all, it is no more difficult to do this than . The site team offers to get acquainted with all the intricacies of the technology for painting plastic elements, and to sort out the main mistakes that beginners face.

How to paint plastic car interior

Immediately, we note that the concept of "paint" is complex. If without lyrics, then painting a plastic element of the interior means:

Sanding.
Degrease.
Find out if it needs to be primed or not.
Restore texture if needed.
Paint in desired color.

What to sand

For matting salon plastics under the ground, red scotch-brite is usually enough. This is an abrasive felt base, similar to the rough side of a dishwashing sponge. The advantage over fine-grained sandpaper is softness, which allows this tool to process various bends and indentations with high quality.

How to degrease

Experienced painters are advised to use only anti-silicone. The fact is that classic solvents in the form of white spirit or solvent can ruin the plastic unit. For example, after using organics, spots are formed that are difficult to hide even by painting. By the way, we have already recommended that white spirit be abandoned when implementing a technology that describes without damaging the paint.

Need primer on plastic or not

The reason for the clumping and flaking of fresh paint is that no primer has been applied beforehand. This is a composition with a special formula of various additives and plasticizers, which improves the adhesion of the paint to the surface. However, not all plastics need primer treatment. To establish whether to prime salon plastic or not, it is necessary to conduct two experiments:

Set fire to a piece of the workpiece.
Submerge the item in water.

If the plastic smokes and sinks, it is not necessary to use a plastic primer. When the plastic element burns like wax candle and floats on the water, you can't do without a primer.

It is important to correctly approach the choice of soil. So ordinary automotive compounds are not suitable - the paint instantly peels off. You need a special primer designed specifically for plastic.

When Structural Paint Is Necessary

If you have ever touched a black plastic bumper or a dark side mirror housing of a car in an inexpensive configuration, you probably felt that the tangible surface seemed to be covered with small pimples. Matte rough effect is a structural plastic. The paint in question recreates the same result, and is usually used to mask scuffs and light scratches.

How can it be useful when preparing a salon part for painting? At a minimum, this component allows you to restore worn and slightly damaged areas of the restored element. As a maximum, a layer of structural paint protects surfaces from damage. And this is fully relevant for the parts with which the crew is actively in contact (door handles, handles, etc.).

What's up with the paint

First, decide what kind of coverage you want to get. Here are some examples:

soft touch. Usually used for torpedoes. The surface is slightly silky and rubberized. This coating is applied to the panel from the factory.
Normal, rough. Applied to hard plastic. For example, the sides of the center console, the lower trims on the door cards or the handles for closing the doors.
Glossy. It is used for trimming saloon levers designed to open the door.

Then find out for yourself which shade to prefer. If the interior painting is planned exclusively in a restoration vein, then take the trouble to find a corporate catalog with the distribution of colors of the insides and outsides by VIN numbers. The original paint, selected according to the factory catalog (for example, for VW it is ETKA), will preserve the monotony of the overall picture of the interior. This will be due to the fact that there will be no noticeable difference between painted and unpainted parts.

Note. For restoration measures, it is better to order the original paint and only from the car manufacturer.

If we talk in the plane of the examples given, then it is better to purchase the Soft-Touch aerosol can through the official line. To get the usual rough layer, it is enough to use classic paint paired with structural paint. Here are examples for common shades:

Black. Suitable VAZ black Cosmos (code 665).
Grey. The VAZ decorant (graphite) intended for bumpers fits perfectly.

However, the color and origin of the paint are purely individual things and are selected solely according to one's own preferences. Continuing the conversation about rough coatings, it is appropriate to mention the well-known RAPTOR U-POL, a protective coating for the exterior of a car, and its similarity - HB BODY.

Glossy objects are regular paint covered with several layers of varnish. The latter is recommended to be purchased in aerosol cans. There are no hard requirements for this component.

We recommend painting plastic parts of a car interior only with a spray can. When applying enamel with a brush, there is a risk of streaks. In addition, such a layer dries much longer, which means that the probability of catching dust particles is much higher.

How to paint interior plastic so that the paint does not peel off

Let's start by analyzing the main mistake: why does the enamel layer peel off? The reason is that the material has nothing to catch on, that is, poor adhesion of the paint layer to the primer or plastic.

The fact is that before applying any type of paintwork on the treated surface, it is necessary to create small grooves and scratches, that is, to grind. This improves the adhesion of the new coating to the base, making it durable and resistant to peeling. What else is sanding good for? During treatment with scotch brite, stubborn contaminants are removed, which are difficult to remove with anti-silicone.

Hard plastic painting technology

We have already outlined the main stages of restoration work in the selection of materials. Now let's deal with the technical part of each operation.

Sanding. According to painting terminology, this transition would be correctly called matting. The bottom line is that the red bright adhesive tape must be moistened with anti-silicone and rubbed with a plastic part.
Degrease. Moisten a rag in anti-silicone and walk over the treated surface.

Prime. Apply 3-4 coats of special primer for plastic and wait until it dries.
Sanding. Treat the primed surface with adhesive tape.
Paint. Apply 2-3 coats of paint of the desired color. If there is a need to restore the structure, then structural enamel is applied before the main painting. The places of its spraying are determined locally: this is either the entire surface of the part, or some of its sections. If the goal is to get a lacquered surface, then 20-30 minutes after receiving the painted coating, varnish is applied in 1-2 layers.

When painting interior plastic, follow the well-known rules for working with aerosol cans:

Place the part in a closed room with a hood so that dust does not enter the processing area.
Cover untreated surfaces with newspaper, cardboard or thick cloth, securing it around the perimeter with masking tape.
Shake the can for 1 minute to get an even coat.
Try spraying paint on some cardboard. Check the color match and prepare the can for uniform spraying.
Apply paint/primer to the surface with quick, but smooth and non-stop longitudinal movements. Drying time between coats at +25°C averages 20-30 minutes. Complete polymerization occurs after 24 hours. Shake the can periodically while painting.
Turn the bottle over and press the button. Actual in the event that paint remains in the container. This is done so that the material does not freeze in the sprayer.

Working with Soft-Touch coating

We have already noted that the above painting technique is relevant for hard interior plastic. Soft-coated plastics, such as dashboards or door cards, need special treatment:

The old soft-touch layer must be completely removed. If this is not done, then the new paint will peel off again. To easily remove the coating, the part should be soaked in the 646th solvent.
When using original Soft-Touch paints, plastic is usually not primed, and one coat of coating is enough to successfully close the issue of restoring interior elements.