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Installing a single-gang switch - step by step instructions and wiring diagram. Tips on how to determine zero and phase quickly

Many homeowners have to change or install switches. Most commonly used single-gang switch wiring diagram- one of the simplest circuits for turning on lamps or lamps. This article describes step by step how such a scheme is assembled.

Before starting any work related to electricity, the first step is to de-energize the wiring - turn off the introductory machine, and also take measures to ensure that no one accidentally turns it on.

This is especially important if the electrical panel is located on the landing in a multi-storey building or on the street.

For installation and switch connections will need:

- the switch itself;
- junction box;
- connecting wires;
- insulating PVC tape.

Connection diagram of the switch in the junction box

Connecting the wire directly to a light or switch is quite simple - it does not require explanation.

This article will discuss how to connect wires from a lamp, an electrical panel and a switch in one junction box.

Once again, we want to remind you that all work on connecting wires in the junction box, connecting the switch and fixtures should begin only after the mains voltage is removed.

Following this simple rule when the switch breaks exactly the phase, and not zero, you will ensure your safety, and also make safe operation electrical equipment in your apartment.

If the switch does not disconnect the phase from the load, but the neutral wire, then the wiring will always remain energized, which is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous.

For example, you need to replace a light bulb that burned out in a chandelier. If the switch turns off the neutral wire, and not the phase, if you accidentally touch the current-carrying parts of the chandelier or the base of the light bulb, you may be struck electric shock, since these parts are under phase voltage.

You can determine the phase wire in the distribution wiring using an indicator screwdriver.

Again, for safety reasons, the phase wire (usually red) must be connected to the lamp socket in such a way that the bulb is connected to the phase by the central contact of the base.

This reduces the likelihood that a person will touch the phase wire.

Switch wiring diagram consists of one or more electric bulbs connected in parallel, a single-gang switch, a junction box and a 220 volt power source.

Specialized stores offer a wide range of wires for electrical wiring, so it is better to take wires for phase and zero different colors such as red and blue.

So, a two-wire cable is suitable from the switchboard to the junction box. It is very convenient if it is two-color, for example, the phase wire is red, and the zero wire is blue.

In addition to it, the cable from the lamp and the cable from the switch are suitable for the junction box. The phase wire from the switchboard (red) is connected to the red wire going to the switch.

The second (blue) wire from switch connects to the red wire, which is connected to the load (lamp, chandelier). As a result, we made the phase that goes to the lamp switched.

Zero wire ( of blue color) from the electrical panel is connected to the neutral wire, which goes to the load (light bulb).

As a result, it turns out that the neutral wire from the junction box goes directly to the light bulb, and the phase is connected to the light bulb through a switch.

The scheme works as follows. When the switch button is pressed, the circuit is closed, and the phase from the electrical panel is supplied to the lamp, its lamp starts to shine. By pressing the button again, the electrical circuit is broken and the lamp turns off.

After all connections, the twisting points are well insulated and neatly stacked. It is best to connect the wires in the junction box by twisting with soldering.

Scheme of connecting a socket and a switch in one junction box

Very often, a junction box is installed in each room of the apartment, where all the switches, lamps and sockets of this room are connected.

In this case, due to the large number of wires suitable for the junction box, it is quite difficult to figure out what needs to be connected and where.

How to connect a socket and a switch to a junction box?

Consider the option when a socket and a lamp are simultaneously connected to one junction box.

So, two wires come from the switchboard to the box - red (phase) and zero (blue).

The procedure for connecting the switch and the lamp is exactly the same as discussed above.

The socket is connected in parallel with the supply wires: the phase of the socket is connected to the supply phase (both wires are red), and the zero from the socket is connected to the neutral supply wire (both wires are blue).

The connected wires must be well crimped and soldered, after which they are securely insulated and neatly placed in the box.

It is difficult to even imagine human existence now without lighting, and, accordingly, without switches that operate this lighting. The child, having learned to walk and reach for the switch, clicks it continuously, surprised at the appearance of light, as if by some kind of magic or miracle. But we, adults, know perfectly well that the laws of physics and electrical engineering are the basis of such magic. Based on this knowledge, we will take a closer look at the switch, its main function, varieties and design, and also talk about how to connect a light switch.

main function

A light switch is a switching device with which a person controls the lighting in a room. This device performs two operations - closes the electrical circuit, due to which the lamp lamp is turned on, and opens it, the lamp goes out.

Unlike its high-voltage counterparts, the light switch is designed to operate in lighting networks with voltages up to 1000 V. It is controlled manually, it is not protected from short circuit currents and overload. It does not have arc chutes, as on high-voltage equipment, so the usual household appliance Designed for small current loads.

The single-key switch circuit is the most famous and common for connecting lighting elements.

But now more and more design solutions imply installation in residential premises of a complex configuration of rooms, multi-level ceilings and a group lighting system. Here it will no longer be possible to simply connect a single-key light switch, more complex models will be needed. For example:

A two-key switch will be much more convenient to use if the room has a zonal division, when brighter lighting is needed in its working part, and subdued light is allowed in the rest part. Such devices are also used in living rooms, where large carob chandeliers for several lamps are mounted.
The switch is three-gang, combined with a socket. Such a device is convenient to install when there is a corridor, a bathroom and a toilet nearby. The connection diagram of the light switch in this design implies the supply of voltage by each key to a separate room, and the socket is useful in order to use a hairdryer or an electric razor.
Illuminated switch. A wonderful option for any space. Going into dark room, you do not have to shuffle your hands along the wall in search of a switch, a luminous beacon will indicate its location.

There will be a separate, more detailed discussion about how to install these switching devices and how to connect them correctly. However, we advise you to start getting acquainted with the device, the principle of operation and the connection diagram using the example of single-gang switches.

Varieties

Despite all the elementary nature, the one-button light switch under consideration has several varieties, depending on the design.

Take note! If necessary, an outdoor switch can be used as a temporary option so as not to start with a large-scale repair of electrical wiring and avoid unnecessary financial costs.

If you need to install the lamp in a room where there is a high degree of humidity and the possibility of water ingress is not ruled out, then no the best option how to connect a light bulb through a waterproof switch. Most often, this option is used for swimming pools, baths, saunas, car washes. The sealed body of the device, combined with high-quality seals, will also protect against dust. Therefore, through moisture-proof switches, lighting devices can be safely connected in workshops and on construction sites high in dust and dirt.

What else I would like to note is the external variety of switches in the modern market of electrical goods. You can pick up a classic or some interesting unusual design, absolutely any color. Therefore, before you connect a switch in the room, think carefully about the future appearance rooms, so that even such a trifle as a switching device harmonizes with the overall interior.

Device and principle of operation

To properly connect the switch, it will not be superfluous to first familiarize yourself with its device. It is equipped with the following main elements:

Working part. The most important element is the drive on which the key is attached. It is mounted on a metal frame. To fix this whole structure in the socket, there is a pair of sliding legs. Also, the working part contains contacts to which it is necessary to connect electrical wires.

Protective plastic elements. A key that is attached directly to the working mechanism and carries out the on-off process. A frame made of a dielectric material protects a person from contact with a working part that is energized. It is attached to the mechanism with screws or plastic latches.

Connecting a lighting bulb through a single-gang switch is very simple. In the working part of the device there is a contact group consisting of a movable and a fixed contact. A wire from the power source is connected to the movable contact, a key is directly put on it. A wire going to the lamp is attached to the fixed contact. When the key is pressed, the moving contact can be in one of two positions:

Included. It closes the electrical circuit, the phase from the mains is supplied to the lighting device and the light bulb lights up.
Disabled. The electrical circuit is open, the phase is not supplied to the lamp and the lamp does not light.

Necessary tools and materials

Before connecting the light switch, electrical wiring must be done in the room and a place (hole) in the wall must be prepared where the switching device will be directly mounted. If this is not the case, first you will have to make strobes in the wall (for laying the electrical wire) and mount the junction box (wire connections will be made in it). To do this, stock up on the following materials and tools:

Putty or alabaster.
Perforator and grinder with a circle on concrete.
Spatula and a container for mixing the solution.

There is a slightly easier option - to find the nearest installed junction box in the room and connect the wires in it.

Keep in mind! Junction boxes are always mounted under the ceiling (at a distance of 10-30 cm from it), so you will definitely need a stepladder for work.

To make an elementary installation yourself, and then check how correctly the circuit for connecting the switch to the light bulb is, you will need the following materials and tools:

The switch with one key of internal execution.
Polypropylene or plastic socket box (mounting box).
Lamp for one bulb.
Insulating tape.
Screwdriver with voltage indication.
Knife for stripping the insulating layer on the wires.

Connection

About the most important condition when performing any electrical work, we will remind you in almost every article. Before starting work, turn off the introductory machine.

As mentioned above, an important element in the switch-bulb chain is the junction box. First of all, lay the wire to the box from the power source (shield).
From the junction box you should have two wires - one to the switch, the second to the lamp socket. It is very convenient to use a wire with cores that have insulation of different colors. For example, a red core will mean "phase", blue - "zero".
Before connecting the wires to each other, cut all their ends and strip the wires. In the junction box, it is necessary to strip the wires by 3-4 cm, in order to then make a reliable twist, in the switch and the cartridge for connecting to the contacts, it will be enough to strip by 5-8 mm.
There are two contacts in the lamp socket, connect the phase wire to one of them, and zero to the second.
Connect two strands of the wire suitable for the switch to the moving and fixed contacts respectively.
Fix the frame and the switch key, and also assemble the ceiling of the lighting fixture.
And now the most important thing is to connect the wires together in the junction box (experienced electricians say “turn off” in their jargon). Extreme care is needed here, do not confuse anything, you should end up with three twists as a result. Connect the neutral wire coming from the mains to the neutral wire going to lighting device. Connect the phase wire from the mains to the wire going to the movable contact of the switch. One pair remains - this is the core, which is connected to the fixed contact in the switch, and the phase core of the lamp, connect them together.
Make reliable twists (for better contact, you can also solder these places), insulate them from above with a special tape and put on PVC pipes. Carefully arrange all this in the junction box, and close it with a lid.
Turn on the introductory machine and test the switch in action.

Very important! When connecting the switch core to the mains, do not confuse the phase wire with the neutral one. Remember, the switching device should only break the "phase". Otherwise, when replacing lamps in a lighting fixture, you may get energized.

Video

Now you know how to connect a one-button switch. You can, of course, invite electricians for this business. But in the case of this particular device, there is nothing complicated, and the result made by oneself is always doubly pleasing.

Many electrical appliances are equipped with switches installed on themselves, so they do not require special care: I bought a fan, and it is already on it - a switch is placed either on the case or on the wire. Such electrical appliances are often left in the network with the cord permanently plugged into the outlet (although firefighters are usually against it). If the device is used occasionally, then it may not have a switch at all, for example, the iron is the simplest. Plugged it in - and it worked, it started to warm up.

Therefore, all our electrical outlets usually do not require individual switches to be installed on the wall. That is, it either has a switch on itself, or it does not exist at all, or there is a switch, but it is automatic, and does not require our participation (refrigerator). However, it is important to know that the switches installed on the devices and the switches that are on the wall are fundamentally no different. Well, except that the switches hanging from the power cord are designed to be hand-held. But they, too, together with the rest of their numerous brethren, are one.

Varieties of switches

In electrical engineering, all opening / closing devices are called briefly and clearly: the key.

Both types and sizes are very different - from inconspicuous or microscopic noiseless electronic to huge pieces of iron filled with oil. But the principle is this: they can close the circuit, or they can open it. This is one feature. And the second is to remember your last state.

There is a button that will work, turn on a light or a doorbell, for example, and then reset it with a spring. But the switch on the buttons is still made so that fixation occurs. For example, on powerful machines, the knife switch has two buttons: start and stop. This is the switch, only the relay. By the start button, you turn it on, then the electromagnet is activated and fixes the start button in the pressed position, preventing it from releasing. By pressing the stop button, you turn it off - the electromagnet circuit opens, and the start button is released. Only this is in power engineering, it usually does not occur in everyday life. And in everyday life, a similar mechanism is implemented using mechanical latches.

In our house, household switches work mechanically. They are equipped with springs that provide pressure to the pusher good contact in case of inclusion, and spin - no contact in case of disconnection.

Household switches differ in execution (or in the wiring in which they are used):

outdoor wiring (outdoor version) - wiring is carried out over already finished walls and other interior elements, the switch is all outside the wall;

internal wiring: prepared and carried out before finishing, recessed into the wall. Only switches and sockets embedded in the walls and inscribed in the interior remain visible.

Typically household switches are used for lighting. These are normally open switching devices, and in terms of installation they are unified for home wiring. Functionally, you can count several more subspecies: keyboard, push-button, lever, rotary, cord, touch. And there are also switches with slow extinguishing (dimmers) and controlled by buttons or keys that are not familiar to us, but otherwise: by pulling the cord, in the case of a cord, remotely, for example, by three clapping. But we don’t really need the latter, since they can be mounted anywhere, and not necessarily on the wall, most often on the chandelier itself or the diode strip. And they can be considered not as an ordinary apartment switch, but already as a means of automation.

Wiring diagrams

The switch must open the phase going to the lighting fixture from the distribution box. Zero goes to the lighting fixture directly, bypassing the switch.

There are two options.

Switch connections

N - neutral wire
L - phase wire

As you can see, a single-gang switch, the connection scheme is different. That's right - this is when, after the switch, the phase wire returns back to the distribution box, and from it it goes to the lamp or chandelier in one twist. With a normally open contact of the switches in such cases, there will be zero voltage in both wires, and the phase will only go when the switches are connected.

This is done when wiring is standard, but the circuit may seem intricate when you do it yourself. Because the builders first lay all the electrics, and then they plaster everything and stick wallpaper. The owner can make repairs in one particular room, or make it partially without deleting everything. Decoration Materials. Therefore, it can be problematic for him to perform exactly as such a single-key switch connection scheme prescribes. Especially if a new lighting fixture is being installed somewhere, and the switch for it is placed directly under the lamp. Moreover, it is very easy to get confused in the wires in this case.

In order not to get confused and not to eventually connect the phase to zero in the junction box, you can use two cables that are different in the colors of the wire insulation. Or take one cable from several multi-colored wires, and apply blue and red to the lamp, and brown and green to the switch, for example, cut into the red gap in the box. Then the single-key switch circuit will actually look something like this.

In this case, it remains only to connect the incoming phase and zero in the box: zero - to the blue zero of the lamp, phase - to the brown wire going to the switch, and connect the green wire returning from it to the phase wire going to the lamp.

Both cables are pre-twisted: the one that goes to the lamp (blue and red) and the one that goes to the switch (brown and green). You can choose other colors, most importantly, I recommend that the neutral wire always and everywhere be marked only in blue. Just like in a circuit where there is grounding, always leave the regular yellow-green striped grounding.

Now everything is clear, it remains only to do it by hand.

Switch mounting

We begin to mount from the junction box. First, we find the box that controls the lighting in the area of the room where we conduct the light. Only at first

Wiring must be carried out subject to all electrical safety rules. Since the work is carried out in a network carrying a life-threatening voltage of 220/380 volts alternating current, the most important actions must be carried out when turning off the power switches on the panel.

For work, use means that ensure safety.

When working with phase voltage, it is necessary to verify the presence or absence of a phase on the conductors using a voltage indicator. The search for conductive cables hidden in the walls is carried out using non-contact wiring indicators.

During chipping, drilling, fastening wires, glasses, carry out such work with extreme caution, as there may be live conductors in the wall.

We do everything in order.

We remove the cover from the junction box, determine the zero coming from the shield and the incoming phase.
We find the routes for laying the cable from the box to the switch and to the lighting fixture. We mark for scraping.
We mark the place for installing the switch.
We measure two pieces of cable of the required length.
We make a punch hole for the installation of the switch. We do this carefully so as not to fall on the wiring in the wall.
We make a punching (trenching) of ditches for the cable. We do this carefully so as not to fall on the wiring in the wall.
We process the ends of the wire for connection in the box, the lamp and the switch.
We make the laying and fastening of the cable with brackets in the strobes.
The socket glass is planted on alabaster and / or self-tapping screws in the hole. In this case, the end of the cable is inserted into the socket into the hole.
After the alabaster hardens, the wires are connected to the switch terminals. The switch to be mounted must always be open.
The wires of the cable going to the lamp are connected to the lamp terminal block. The neutral wire must go to the base thread terminal, the phase wire (from the switch) - to the central contact terminal.
The wires are connected to the wires in the distribution box. The wires are connected when the network machines are turned off.
Turning on the light switch and checking for the presence of a phase at the input terminal of the switch. Turn on the machine with the utmost care.

Now - turn on the switch - the chandelier works!

This article will talk about connecting a light switch in an apartment with one connected lamp. Previously, this was the simplest thing - two wires, we turn on the switch in the gap and that's it. But the times of Khrushchev and panels with the simplest electrical networks have passed in modern houses it's a bit more complicated. In fact, for a person who is more or less knowledgeable in technology, this is a simple matter that requires only: basic knowledge of electricity and the operation of a switch, a flat and Phillips screwdriver, a voltage indicator (optional).

The article is divided into two stages:

The first stage is theory, or what the connection diagram of a switch with a lamp looks like.
The second stage is practice. Grab your tools and get to work.

Principal connection diagram

The light switch looks like this in the diagram:

it the simplest circuit. In order for a standard 220 V lamp to be switched on, two wires must be connected: live (L) and neutral (N).

When the electrical circuit is not interrupted and an electric potential occurs in the phase wire, current flows through the lamp and the lamp lights up. The light switch has the task of closing or opening an electrical circuit in order to light or extinguish the lamp. In addition, a protective (earth) conductor must be connected to the protective terminal of the lamp in order to equalize the potential of the lamp housing with the earth potential. This protection against electric shock is needed, for example, when touching the body of a damaged light bulb.

The following scheme is closer to the present:

Here, a 3-wire power cable is supplied to the electrical unit.

bronze wire - phase
blue wire - neutral
yellow-green - protective wire

An additional cable is routed from the electrical box to the lamp. As we have already determined, the light switch has the task of interrupting the circuit in only one place, and this place is the phase wire.

Attention! If you make a mistake and connect the neutral wire to the switch instead of the phase wire (and the phase wires will go directly to the consumer), everything will work - when pressed, the lamp will turn on or off. However, the problem will arise that despite the light bulb being off, the electric potential will be applied to the lamp itself. This creates an additional risk of electric shock if you want to replace the lamp with the lights off - the phase will still be present on the wires and on the lamp. As a result, during any work to replace a burned-out lamp, it will be necessary to turn off the voltage in the home switchgear(open circuit with circuit breakers). In general, it's best to do the right thing.

For the above scheme in the considered example, we will add two more elements, which, perhaps, will not be used if there is circuit breaker but it's worth mentioning them anyway. These elements are:

The three-wire power cord is routed to the next switch.
The fourth wire (black) in the cable between the box (this is a hole in the wall for the switch) and the lamp.

This as yet unconnected conductor may be useful in the future, for example, when it is necessary to install a double switch and a lamp with large quantity light bulbs to selectively turn the light on at different brightness levels.

What does a switch look like

Here is an example of a classic dark gray switch.

There are many holes here, but we will only be interested in the 4 located in the red rectangle. These are equivalent to terminals 1 and 2 in the diagrams above. The other holes in the switch have no function. In addition, at the top and lower parts there are plastic gray elements for snapping the case.

Returning to the front of the switch, after removing the key (usually with your fingers, pressing slightly towards you), we see a plastic element that is used to attach the key and switch. It is not needed during assembly, so slightly pry it with a flat screwdriver and remove it.

Installing a single-gang switch

According to the diagram, 3 wires are freed from external insulation: the lower 3-wire harness is power, the upper 4-wire cable is the connection to the lamp, and the 3-wire cable on the right is power to the next switch (you probably won’t have it).

When you assemble or replace a circuit breaker, you may have a slightly different wiring pattern:

There may not be a 3-wire cable to feed to another lamp.
The network can be two-wire (without a protective conductor). There can only be two wires in the box (if yes, then neutral and protective conductors connected elsewhere, such as in a duct under the ceiling.

To make sure that there is no power, use a voltage tester (probe) to check if there is a potential of 220 V on the wires of the power cord.

The next step is to remove the insulation from the ends of the cable. It is better to carry out this operation with an insulation stripper. If you do not have it (most likely not) - take a mounting knife and strip the ends by 20 mm.

After stripping the insulation, connect the neutral wires using the electrical connector.

There was no blue wire in the four-wire cable to the lamp. We will use gray as a neutral. In order to avoid misunderstandings in the future, it is advisable to wrap the end of the cable with the wrong color with electrical tape.

We connect the protective wires in the same way.

The connecting neutral and protective wires are hidden inside the box. In this case, there are three phase wires left that must be connected to the switch.

On one side of the switch we insert a phase wire going to the circuit breaker.

On the other side of the switch is a phase wire that leads to the lamp.

We collect the switch. Lightly tighten the screws alternately so that you can align the switch in the wall evenly. Depending on the manufacturer, the method of fastening and connecting the wires may be different.

Put the key on the mechanism.

Sometimes a plastic decorative casing is put on first, and the key is at the very end.

Now no one is surprised by the blessings of civilization. Coming into the room, we do not hesitate to reach out our hand in order to turn on the lighting.

When carrying out repairs or breakdowns, the electrician must know how to install the switch. When repairing, two operations are performed: first, it is necessary to remove the faulty one, and then install the switching device.

If the electrical switch fails, it must be dismantled. To do this, an electrician must adhere to a certain algorithm. First of all, you should de-energize the room and take measures to prevent accidental switching on of the machine.

To do this, a warning poster is posted with the inscription “Do not turn on! People are working." Only then can the switch be replaced. First of all, you need to remove the keys.

For which, with a thin screwdriver, gently pry and remove the key. The next step is to remove the decorative overlay. Unscrew the screws that secure the decorative frame to the plastic box, and release the spacer clips.

Only then can the device be dismantled. Before unscrewing suitable wires, it is necessary to check the presence of voltage on the contacts. The check is carried out with a probe or tester. How to check the absence of voltage read. Then the device is removed.

And also record the location of the wires. Only then can the switch be installed. It is performed in reverse order.

How to connect a light switch

In order to properly mount the switching device, you need to know how the switch connection diagram is assembled. An electrician should understand the color designation of wires:

Yellow-green is always connected to ground;
Blue or blue is connected to the neutral wire;
Red, brown or any other color indicates a phase wire.

There is a rule that when installing the wiring, a phase wire comes to the electric switch.

This rule applies to all devices, one, two, three, etc. keys. You need to start marking the places where the devices will be installed. The installation height of switches for individual housing is not regulated.

The height of the switch is selected from the conditions of ease of use. Previously, the standard provided for the height of sockets 500-600 mm, and switches 1500-1600 mm.

Now there are no such restrictions, but before there were unspoken laws of installation. Which? - find out . After the installation site is determined, a place for a plastic box is prepared with a puncher with a special crown.

A wall chaser cuts the strobes for mounting wires. It remains to install the wires and install devices, for example, a single-gang switch for hidden wiring.

How to connect the switch correctly

In order to properly connect electrical appliances, you must follow the simple rules of operation and safety:

Never start work if you are not sure that there is no voltage in the network;
A neutral wire always comes to a chandelier or light bulb;
The phase must always be applied to the switching devices.

These conditions must be strictly observed, so if during operation it is necessary to replace the light bulb.

Then an electrician, when replacing a lamp, if he accidentally touches current-carrying parts, he will not be struck by an electric current. Since the phase voltage is not supplied to the lamp when the electric switch is off.

How to install a light switch

Installation of the switch should not cause great difficulties for a specialist. The simplest is to connect a single-gang switch.

To do this, it is necessary to install the wires according to the project. The connection diagram of a single-gang switch is a lamp, an electric switch, a junction box, wires and a power source.

In our case, this is an electrical network with a voltage of 220 volts. In a properly assembled circuit, a phase is applied to the switching device. That is due to safety conditions. A neutral wire comes to the light bulb.

The lamp may represent a chandelier, consisting of several light bulbs connected in parallel. All wires come to the junction box, where they are connected according to the wiring diagram.

To avoid a short circuit, you must follow the rule of color connection of wires.

How to connect a two-gang switch

The connection diagram for a two-gang switch is not much different from connecting a single-gang switch. The main difference between one device and another is that a two-key device controls light devices that have two light circuits.

That is, a chandelier with five horns is installed, the first key controls two lamps, and the second three. Installing a two-key switch is practically no different from a single-key switch.

In order to connect a two-gang switch, it is necessary to lay one more wire, with which the second circuit will be controlled.

Summing up what has been said, we can conclude that the circuit for connecting a switch to a light bulb is a set of wires, a light bulb and a switching device. And the two-gang switch connection diagram includes one more wire.

How to connect a double switch

The connection diagram of a double switch for two bulbs is a connection to the switch to a common phase contact. There are two wires coming out of it that go to the lamps. Each to its own contour.

A common wire connected to zero leaves the chandelier. In a similar way, you can connect a double-circuit chandelier to a double switch. To do this, it is enough to run two wires from the chandelier to the switch box.

From the electric switch, two wires are also connected to different keys. In the box they are connected to the wires from the lamp. In the same way, a double switch is connected to two light bulbs.

The only difference is that instead of a chandelier, two light bulbs are used, which are connected in parallel. In the same way, the connection diagram of a two-gang switch is organized.

From this we can conclude that the circuit for connecting a switch to two light bulbs is not technically complicated. And a similar circuit, with which it is just as easy to connect the chandelier to a double switch.

How to connect a three-gang switch

In addition to single-key and two-key electric switches, three-key switches are used. The main difference is the presence of an additional switching mechanism with contacts.

It is designed to control large chandeliers with three lamp circuits. Most often, the third key is used to turn on the decorative lighting of the ceilings.

The connection diagram of a three-gang switch differs from the connection of a two-gang switch by the presence of an additional wire from the chandelier and the electric switch, which comes to the junction box, where they are connected in an appropriate way by twisting or using special clamps.

How to connect a triple switch

Connecting a three-gang switch is no different from installing a triple one. These are exactly the same devices, made using the same technology.

The only difference is the appearance. It plays a role only when selecting devices for the interior of the room. For connection, a triple electric switch connection scheme is used, a phase wire is suitable for it.

It is connected to a common terminal, and three wires passing through the box are connected to a light source. To which, on the other hand, a neutral wire is connected to the common contact.

To ensure that the lighting in the apartment is turned off, a separate connection of the circuit breaker is used. This ensures that the voltage is turned off when the lighting is repaired.

Often, for comfortable use of lighting devices in the dark, backlit switches are connected. They are used in order not to look for devices in the dark.

They have built-in LEDs that glow when the devices are turned off. Some of them have two LEDs, one - red glows when the device is turned off, and green when turned on.

Safety

At installation work it should be remembered that you can not connect zero to the switch, and when repair work it is necessary to check what is supplied to the contacts zero or phase.

Checking must be done for your own safety. In order not to accidentally get under voltage when replacing a light bulb or repair work.

If you do not have the skills to work with electrical appliances, you should contact a specialist who will professionally install a single-gang switch for flush wiring. The electrician will agree with the customer how to properly install the light switch and advise at what height they should be installed.