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Step-by-step instructions for the installation of metal tiles using a special technology from a to z. How to lay metal tiles on the roof Laying metal tiles on the roof instructions

A metal tile is a roofing material in the form of profiled steel sheets with a polymer coating. It is applied to a covering of roofs with an angle more than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it looks like a classic ceramic tile, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article, we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature fluctuations and to other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low soundproofing characteristics, but it is eliminated with proper work.

In this article, you will learn how to make a metal tile roof with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you do not know how to choose a metal tile, then.

This stage of work should be given special attention, since it will be on the crate. Also, this design provides natural interior roof space.

Metal roofing is made from wooden beam . The mutual arrangement of the boards can be continuous and thinned.
Most commonly used sparse constructions, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the waves of the tiles, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
Distance between the first two bars from the side of the slope should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established step.
The minimum thickness and width of the board for the crate are 25 and 100 mm respectively.
The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as much. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

boards pre calibrated in one size to avoid future distortions and irregularities in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

The installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main crate is attached to the counter-crate, which is connected to the truss frame with self-tapping screws. Additional support boards are laid on the roof ridge under the metal tile.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count the required amount of material for the construction of the roof is produced as follows (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is best to round all values up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care of isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from entering the inside of the roofing pie. environment. Most common waterproof materials- These are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not intersect with thermal insulation.

roofing cake

Vapor barrier is a protective layer not passing through inner space roof moisture generated in the premises. This is the lowest layer of the roofing pie, it is located under the rafters (it is attached to them) and thermal insulation, thereby protecting it from condensation.

A mansard roof made of metal tiles must necessarily be vapor-insulated with high quality; in cold roofs without insulation, the installation of a vapor barrier is not mandatory.

Necessary tools and equipment

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with training necessary tools . To install a metal roof, you will need:

Screwdriver.
Rail.
Metal shears or other devices for cutting metal, such as nibblers, Circular Saw etc.
Construction stapler.
Roulette and marker.
The components of the roof and roofing cake: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro-, steam- and heat-insulating materials, beams for battens and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use grinder and other abrasive cutting tools, as this breaks the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? Metal tile on self-tapping screws with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of fastener areas.

If tiles with a hidden fastening are mounted, then galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the holding force is insufficient moisture will get under the cap and cause it to corrode. If you tighten the screws too much, the gasket will deform, which will violate its tightness.

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile, you should make sure that the crate is symmetrical and reliable.
self-tapping screws screwed in in places of the lower deflection of the tile, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the boards of the crate.
When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are stacked on top previous ones.
self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tile - do-it-yourself installation + instructions

Now you know how to properly lay a metal tile and we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instruction for the installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step by step instructions

How to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? The first step is .

It is on it that all other elements of the roof will be fixed. The system is built from wooden beams, wherein their size exceeds the dimensions of the crate bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
rafter legs. They hold on to themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
Racks. Reinforce the support of the rafter legs.

The fastening of the rafters to the wall is carried out using the so-called tavern. These are metal strips that connect two structures with nails or self-tapping screws.

Next are installed basic insulating layers: insulation, steam and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to the rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafters, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Rafter installation

After the installation of protective structures is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the crate, on which, later, we will lay the roofing. She superimposed over rafters and waterproofing layer and attached to the screws to these structures.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation:

A cornice bar is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from the influence of the wind.
When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation of the space is always taken into account. To do this, leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
The last step is installation of metal tiles. Please note that the sheets protrude beyond the edges of the crate by 5 centimeters and align horizontally along the cornice line.
ridge bar attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the junctions of two slopes during the installation of the crate. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative impacts.

metal roofing plan

. They loosen the snow masses descending from the roof, making their fall relatively safe for building structures and for humans.
Adjacency planks. These products frame the joints of tiles with all important structures such as chimneys and ventilation pipes.
Corners and valleys. They protect all corner roof structures.
low tide. Used to redirect the flow of rain and melt water.

Additional elements

The distance between the beams of the truss frame should be no more than 60-90 centimeters otherwise the roof structure may sag.
When performing work, shoes must be worn on soft sole and move along the tile, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from bursting.
Lack of contact between protective layers important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them mechanical damage during friction.
To provide additional ventilation, you can equip dormer windows in the attic.
For level installation of all elongated trim pieces need to stretch the thread and fix it between two already installed structures.

This is how the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof looks like. This material has an service life of about 50 years, but without the need for repair work, operation will take place only when correct execution installation.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself metal tile laying in video format:

Metal roofing is becoming more and more popular every day. This is an excellent roofing material with an optimal ratio of performance and cost. The metal tile is suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can cope with the tasks of installing the material with your own hands.

The metal tile is made in the form of galvanized sheet material made on the basis of steel. The composition of the sheet includes several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.

zinc layer. It is the basis for applying the following layers. Additionally prevents the development of corrosion.
passivation layer. Prevents the accumulation of static electricity.
Priming layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of the previous and next layers of the metal tile sheet.
polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The finish can be matte or glossy. Many color variations are available, which allows you to choose a roofing material that fully satisfies the needs of the owner.

The metal tile has many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:

light weight. Many excellent roofing materials are available on the market today, but the possibility of using many of them is limited precisely because of heavy weight. modern houses are increasingly being built from the "lungs" building materials And they don't need any extra work. The metal tile, on the other hand, weighs a little, so it can be safely used even for roofing the roofs of houses built on weak foundations;
many color variations. It is hardly possible to find another roofing material presented in such a variety. color solutions like a metal tile;
good specifications. The metal tile is steady against atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be performed at any time of the year;
relatively affordable cost. Metal tile significantly outperforms other coatings with similar parameters in price. natural tile it costs much more, although its properties practically do not differ from the characteristics of modern high-quality steel sheets.

The metal tile looks great on the roofs of almost any buildings. It is best suited for large and respectable houses and cottages, however, if desired, you can develop an excellent roofing project even for a small country house.

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instruction

Before starting the arrangement of the crate and fastening the sheets of metal tiles directly, it is necessary to think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture insulating material, the possibility of condensation on the internal surfaces of the elements of the roofing system will be excluded, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.

The most popular waterproofing option is polyethylene film. This affordable material perfectly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.

Waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counter beam. Individual pieces of film are laid with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. To fix the film, use galvanized nails or a construction stapler with metal staples. Glue the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.

The technology of metal tile roofing requires the mandatory installation of insulation. The most convenient to use plates mineral wool. The material is laid between the rafter legs. For fixing the plates, the construction stapler already familiar to you is perfect.

Lathing device

The metal tile will be laid on top of a supporting structure known as a batten. The frame of the system is assembled from wooden planks about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.

The crate is attached in the interval between laying the waterproofing and installing the insulation. The task is reduced to attaching wooden boards or bars to the rafters. Start fastening from the ridge of the roof structure, gradually moving vertically down to the eaves. Fix the elements of the crate in a horizontal position. Use nails of the correct length. As a rule, boards are mounted in a continuous sheet.

Laying roofing material

Laying of metal tiles should begin from the bottom corner of the roof slope. It is best to start from the bottom left corner. In this case, each next sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start the installation of the coating from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tiles will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is undesirable to do so, because with such installation, there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.

Laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the eaves. Do not forget to leave an overhang behind the eaves of about 4 cm. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be laid vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in conducting roofing works it is better to refuse this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.

When laying, you will need to rotate the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in the same row are located along a single straight line.

To fix adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. Such a preliminary fastening is placed at the top of the sheet. After that, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.

Lay the longest sheets of metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.

Approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws are used per 1 m2 of coating. You need to fasten the sheets in transverse waves, screwing in self-tapping screws in 35 cm increments. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.

An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening self-tapping screws. An electric drill will work too. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the cartridge. To achieve greater fastening accuracy, it is recommended to punch the hole in advance.

Cover sheets must be fixed in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the crate. This will create the most reliable fastening and not deform the material.

The bottom sheets of the metal tile must be fastened to the first purlin in each wave, without gaps. This section will be subjected to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening must be as reliable as possible so that the sheets are not torn off at the first strong gust of wind.

Fasten to other purlins at a minimum distance from below to the step. At this point, the sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement, the screws will be almost invisible.

In places of overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be fixed through a wave. If you wish, you can fix each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the upper sheet elements.

For fixing roofing material, galvanized self-tapping screws made of alloy steel are best suited. Stainless steel self-tapping screws with a sealant also proved to be excellent. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will create the optimal color combination self-tapping screws and the main coating.

Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the elements of the crate. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be attracted to the crate as tightly as possible. Any distortion of self-tapping screws can lead to the appearance of through holes in the sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tile.

3-4 months after the completion of the roofing work, check the self-tapping screws. Under the influence of wind loads, fasteners usually weaken. Tighten loose screws.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in self-assembly of metal tiles. Follow the instructions, stick to the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instructions

After the rafter system is ready, the question arises - how to properly lay the metal tile? To begin with, it is necessary to carry out control measurements of the slopes, since minor deviations could occur during the construction of the house and the truss system. Such a check is performed on the squareness and plane of the roof, measuring the length of the diagonals of the slopes. Minor squareness defects can be hidden with additional elements (read: ""). Otherwise, it will be necessary to trim the slopes.

The main dimension that determines the length of the sheet is the height of the slope (from the eaves). This takes into account the overhang of the metal tile from the eaves (approximately 3-4 cm). If the slope length is more than 7 meters, then the sheets are usually divided into several pieces, which are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The use of long sheets allows you to organize fewer joints. But working with such sheets is a little more difficult than with short ones. Well, it depends on the specific model of the material.

Daily temperature fluctuations lead to the fact that condensation forms on the inner surface of the metal tile. In addition, steam is converted into water, which rises from interior spaces Houses. An excess of moisture causes the insulation to soak and lose its thermal properties. Also, high humidity is the main cause of freezing of the roof, the formation of frost, the appearance of mold and rotting of the wooden elements of the roof.

To remove moisture from the under-roof space organize natural ventilation so that air can easily pass from the eaves to the ridge. Therefore, a ventilation gap 4-5 cm high is left between the metal tile and the waterproofing. Ventilation slots 5 cm wide are also provided in the filing of the roof overhangs.

Waterproofing device

A special membrane type film acts as a waterproofing. Its principle of operation is that moisture from the side of the roofing cannot penetrate to the insulation, while warm air from the interior freely enters through the membranes into the ventilation gap.

Attachment of additional elements

If drainage system is created from rectangular profiles, then the gutter is inserted into the holders. Then a cornice-type bar under is attached to the crate. At the same time, its lower edge should overlap the edge of the gutter. Under-roofing waterproofing is removed over the cornice strip. This is done so that the condensate flows freely into the gutter.

If a profile is used to organize the drainage system round section, then the gutter is inserted into the holders, while its edge is inserted into the fixing ledge. A cornice-type plank is attached so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter. Roofing waterproofing is removed in the same way as in the previous case.

End strips are attached to the ends of the roof. They are installed in increments of 50-60 cm using self-tapping screws. An overlap of 50 mm should form between the planks. If necessary, the end strips are trimmed.

Then the ridge bars are installed. They come in two types: flat and round. For a round bar, installation begins with fastening flat or conical plugs along its ends (rivets or self-tapping screws are used for this). In the case of a flat ridge batten, such plugs are not needed.

In addition, a sealant is placed on the ridge. It is on it that the ridge bar will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to pre-cut places in the seal for ventilation holes. Fasten the ridge bar with roofing screws 80 mm long. They are screwed on every second wave of tiles. An overlap of 10 cm is organized between the ridge slats.

How to lay a metal tile - a roof fencing

In order to ensure the safety of moving along the roof during maintenance work, a vertical fence is attached to the eaves. The crate for the fence is made, as for other accessories - solid. The fencing supports are fixed with galvanized screws in places where the tile waves deflect. The support is installed taking into account the level of the slope of the roof. The step between two adjacent supports is often 90 cm. After the supports are fixed, a fence is attached to them.

A huge number of videos and photos are available on the Internet demonstrating how to lay metal tiles. But, unfortunately, only a few of them can boast of a qualitative disclosure of such an extensive topic. In this article we will try to tell as much as possible about all the details of this process.

Rules for fixing metal tiles

Consider the general concept of the installation of metal tiles.

Rules for installing self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws are screwed tightly into the sheets of metal. But at the same time, it is important not to overdo it and not crush the seal gasket.

Along the perimeter of the slope, the screws are screwed into the deflection of each wave. Further, the tiles are fixed to each bar of the crate, while the self-tapping screws are placed in a checkerboard pattern. When screwing in screws at a close distance to the steps, it is almost impossible to see them, as they are in the shade. The screws are screwed into the overlaps of the sheets at a certain angle, so as to ensure a better attraction of the sheets. On average, per 1 sq.m. roofing takes 6-8 screws, and when attaching accessories - 3 screws per 1 running meter on each side.

If not special roofing screws are used to fix the material, but screws without a sealing washer or non-galvanized screws, this may lead to insufficient sealing of the surface. As a result, the tiles will quickly corrode, which will negatively affect the strength of the fasteners and the durability of the roof as a whole. Incorrect fastening of self-tapping screws leads to loosening of fasteners and loose connection of tiles to each other.

For screwing screws, it is most convenient to use a screwdriver with the ability to control the torque. This ensures that the screws are clamped as tightly as possible without damaging the washer.

Rules for handling metal tiles

Before starting roofing work, the metal tile must be delivered to the installation site. And even here some problems can arise, the end result of which is material unsuitable for installation. Therefore, during transportation, all instructions of the manufacturer of the metal tile should be strictly followed.

In general, one can distinguish following rules tile handling:

loading is carried out only in a mechanized way. The slings should be soft, and the fasteners should prevent the edges of the sheet from hanging down;
transportation is carried out only on that transport, the length of the body of which is not less than the length of the tile sheet;
at unloading work, the process should involve a sufficient number of people. It should be assumed that one worker should hold no more than 1.5 running meters material;
during transportation and storage, heavy, sharp or abrasive objects should not be laid on top of the sheets of metal tiles;
when storing tiles for more than 1 month, they are stacked. In this case, each sheet is shifted with dry wooden slats;
tiles can be stored in an unheated room, but ultraviolet radiation and precipitation on the surface of the material should be excluded.

Technology of laying metal tiles

In places where the sheets of tiles overlap during rain, a capillary effect may occur. In this case, moisture begins to seep above the level of the drain. In order for water in this case not to linger on the back side of the metal tile, it is necessary to make a capillary groove, which will ensure free flow of liquid. Some manufacturers have taken care of solving this problem in advance, and metal tile sheets already have a single or even double capillary groove.

Laying metal tiles on the roof

Consider how to properly lay the metal tile:

Sheets of metal tiles are joined in groups of up to 4 sheets at the same time. When applying tiles in one row, an offset is formed (up to 3 cm per 10 m). In this way, the laying of metal tiles is carried out step by step. Therefore, the material must be laid with a slight counter-clockwise rotation if the capillary groove is on the left side. At the same time, it is necessary to strive so that the right corners of the sheets of tiles in one row are placed on the same line.
On top of the first sheet, the tile is spread both in the right and left directions. The main criterion for this is the ease of installation. Often, work begins on the side on which there are no cuts, junctions or bevels.
When installing with slipping the previous sheet, in order for the capillary groove to be closed, it is necessary to place the edge of the next sheet of tiles under the wave of the previous one. This makes it easier, since the sheet is fixed on top of another sheet. This prevents the tiles from slipping. But such a laying technique is fraught with scratches on the surface of the metal tile.
Regardless of the shape of the roof slope, tile sheets are aligned strictly horizontally with the eaves. At the same time, one should not forget to organize an overhang over the cornice, which is often prescribed by the manufacturer of the roofing material. The general scheme for laying metal tiles prescribes the following: the tiles are assembled in blocks of 2 to 4 sheets, which are connected with short self-tapping screws. In this case, the group is fastened with just one self-tapping screw as high as possible on the crate. Thus, the tile block can be rotated around the axis, aligning it with the eaves of the slope and the side edge.
If tile sheets are stacked in several rows, then the first sheet is mounted with alignment along the end and eaves. The second sheet is placed on top of the second, temporarily attaching it to the ridge with one self-tapping screw. The sheets are aligned relative to each other and fastened together. The junction of the upper and lower sheets is fixed to the upper point of the wave in increments of one wave (read the article: "").
The third sheet is placed to the left of the first and they are fastened together. Next, a fourth sheet is placed and fixed above the third sheet. In this case, these two sheets are fixed without fixing to the crate. This allows you to adjust the location of the tile elements.
Next, the resulting block is aligned along the cornice and end, after which the tiles can be finally fixed. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the following roofing sheets.

Video instruction for the installation of metal tiles:

Laying a roof of metal tiles on a slope of a triangular shape

The procedure is performed according to the following scheme:

Before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope and draw an axis along it. A similar axis is marked on a sheet of metal. Next, the axes must be aligned. The sheet is fixed with screws on the ridge. On both sides of this sheet, laying continues in the same way (read also: "").
Tiles on triangular slopes, on oblique ridges and in valleys require trimming. In order to simplify the marking of sheets, it is recommended to make a "devil" - a rectangular frame, the boards of which are fixed with a hinged joint. The distance between inside the right board and the outer side of the left should be equal to the width of the tile sheet.
If trimming is necessary, the sheet to be cut is placed on top of the one already laid. "Chertok" is placed on one side on the ridge of the roof or in the valley. The cut line is marked on the other side. In this case, the cross boards must be located strictly horizontally.
When trimming a sheet from a valley, the procedure is the same as in the previous paragraph. After all the conditions are met, a marking line is applied to the loose sheet of metal tiles. It is carried out along the outer side of the second vertically located board, which lies on the valley. Then the sheet is removed and cut according to the markup.

Arrangement of dormer windows and through exits

In those places where the outlet passes through various layers of insulation (hydro-, steam-, heat-) it is necessary to ensure sealing with adhesive tape. At the joints between elements, sealing is carried out using silicone sealant. Often, both sealant and adhesive tapes are included in the set of feed-through elements.

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, to self-assembly metal tiles should be properly prepared, i.е. get to know the details of the building roof structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged along wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a truss system for a warm roof with metal tiles, there are rules, these are:

The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60 cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On the mansard roofs the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope separately. You need to control the horizontalness of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location outer surface rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
In the grooves, all around skylights, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air flows under the metal sheets without interference and also exits. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and give it cruelty in case the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem the overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for end bar, the latter closes the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if attic space supposed to be stitched.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing the crate.
Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. Lay her with outside truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. waterproofing material it is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first one is formed truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymeric waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
Lightning conductor required for safe operation metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. Yet home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes triangular shape:

We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
Build a horse. To do this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

A detailed video instruction will become an excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with your own master's hands:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.