The water pump broke. Mechanical pump for water: types, care, repair

In the event of a breakdown or for other reasons, the pump may not pump water.

It is quite possible to independently figure out why the pump does not pump water from the well. All reasons are divided into 3 categories. The first includes the hydraulic characteristics of the soil. For example, if the pump is actively pumping river water, this is a sign that its power needs to be adjusted. The second category of causes - breakdowns due to the influence of environmental factors. The so-called human factor completes the list.

The causes of the problem often lie in the mistakes made at the stage of drafting the project. For example, a motor pump pumps several times more than a source can provide. This leads to increased energy consumption and rapid wear of the undercarriage of the device. First you need to open the passport, which indicates the performance of the device. It is measured in m3 / h. This indicator is compared with the debit of the well. If the water pump is more powerful than the well, it is better to replace it.

If the motor pump does not pump water, you should first carefully check the pump

The longer the “dry run” takes place, the more the unit buzzes.

In order to objectively evaluate technical condition system, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

• You can not immediately turn off all points of water intake;
• The water pump "Dzhileks" will last longer if watering personal plot will not resemble a flood in its volume;
• The larger the diameter of the pipes and hoses, the lower the pressure level.

The human factor occupies a leading position among all the reasons why pumping equipment does not work properly. At the design stage, all details and environmental conditions must be taken into account. This is in the interests of the user, otherwise you will have to pay dearly for unscheduled repairs.

Pressure and electrical problems

A vacuum device lifts water from a certain depth. The lower the aquifer lies, the more power is needed. Errors occur at the stage of determining the technical parameters of the pump. AT technical description indicated from what maximum depth it will pick up the liquid.

It is better to take a model with a small margin - within 20% of the required level. This will save you from costly manipulations if the aquifer sinks.

A submersible pump can make noise for a long time, trying unsuccessfully to raise water. The process will stop as soon as the thermostat works. If this does not happen, then the unit will fail due to overheating.

The pump may not pump water if there are problems with pressure

The following hydraulic tips will help reduce the likelihood of such malfunctions:

• 10 m of a horizontal tube is equated to 1 m of a vertical;
• The presence of an increased level of resistance requires changing the above proportion - 5: 1;
• If a person finds it difficult to independently make calculations, then you need to call a professional engineer.

A drop in the voltage level in the network leads to the fact that the pump begins to poorly deliver water from the well to the surface. Problems begin at the moment when the voltage level goes beyond the permissible limit - 220 V +/- 10%. At this point, the pumping station may stop turning on altogether. If it still comes into working condition, the efficiency will be negligible. A voltage stabilizer will help to fix this problem.

If the pump is not working properly

As soon as a person notices that the device pumps water poorly or does not do it at all, you need to pay attention to the pipes. Often clogs form in them, reducing the level of pressure. It is less common to blame valves or filters. Engineers pay attention to the fact that this kind of problem occurs after a system has been idle for a long time or improperly assembled. For example, foreign objects or dirt got into the pipe. Gradually it takes away the mixer and the cartridge. Continuing the topic of garbage, we need to mention the need to look at the bottom of the well.

The more sand, silt and other sources of pollution there, the more often a routine inspection is carried out. Reestablish borehole pump only one way is possible. It is turned off and then removed to the surface.

In addition, hydraulics give a few more practical recommendations:

• If the device sucks weakly, then it must be washed under pressure;
• It is necessary to allow the unit to work for some time in the tank without a check valve installed;
• You should always listen to the sound of a running motor - the quieter it is, the bigger the problem is coming.

Another problem associated with the piping system concerns insufficient sealing or physical damage. In the first case, we are talking about the mechanical disconnection of a part of the pipe or the wear of the gaskets. In such a situation, you need to do what he advises. common sense, to perform a local replacement. More time will have to be spent when water from the well does not flow as a result of pipe damage.

If a broken device does not raise water from the well

Signs that the unit is out of order will be a permanent hum and lack of water. You can determine why the deep pump pumps liquid poorly, you can do it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to inspect the mechanical part of the injection element. If we are talking about a centrifugal type of pump, then in 9 cases out of 10 the problem is localized at the level of the plastic impellers of the shaft. They scroll too weakly, which reduces the level of traction several times.

Pumps operating on the basis of the vibration principle become unusable due to a broken stem or broken piston. Most of these problems are due to wear and tear or human error.

Regardless of the reason, the device must be disconnected from the network.

A broken pump can not lift water from a well

The further course of action is as follows:

• Unscrew the part, the quality of which is in doubt;
• Carry out a detailed inspection;
• If the unit is still under warranty, then it is better to ask specialists to figure out why the pump does not work well;

Cold can provoke a temporary malfunction - as soon as the inner surface of the device is free of ice, the pumping equipment will return to normal. You can remove the effects of frost yourself. To do this, use the methods recommended by the manufacturer. It must be remembered that the problem must be fixed as soon as possible. The earlier the repair is made, the less likely it is to lose the power of the product. The second important factor will be the regular maintenance of all parts of the device.

The pump for bottled water allows you to safely use the container large capacity. For example, it is not possible to lift a bottle with a capacity of 19 liters and easily pour the liquid in it.

Using a small container is often not very convenient, and poorly effective. Therefore, special compact pumps are designed specifically to facilitate the use of large capacity bottles.

Application area

Purified water without chlorine impurities is the conscious choice of most users. That is why bottled water diverges with steadily increasing popularity, and in containers of large volumes, for example, with a capacity of 19 liters. Convenience of pouring is provided by a pump for pumping out bottled water.

electric pump

These are very compact devices that are installed at the top of the container. There are two types of them:

• Mechanical;
• Electric.

These pumps are used in different areas: at home, at work, at construction sites, in office premises, in a word, wherever people are regularly located. The name of the pump was solely due to its intended purpose - pumping water from bottles.

Design features and principle of operation

The difference between the mechanical type of devices and the electrical design lies in the need to constantly apply pressure on the button that drives the pumping mechanism. Electric models run on batteries or mains power and further simplify the operation of already not too complex devices.

The principle of operation of such devices is extremely simple: after pressing the button, air is supplied into the container, which displaces a certain amount of liquid. Water pump for pumping bottled water, it delivers liquid in portions, which may well be enough to fill a kettle, glass and other containers, depending on how long the user held the button in the working position.

Choice principle

Considering that such devices are constantly in contact with drinking water, then first of all, the quality of workmanship is taken into account, in particular, the properties of plastic (namely, these pumps are usually made from this material). It is equally important to choose a model with a performance level and parameters that will correspond to a certain container capacity.

Watch the video, selection criteria:

Different versions of the pumps are equipped with a water intake tube of various lengths, which also allows you to drain bottles of certain capacities and depths without leaving a residual amount of liquid at the bottom, as often happens with an improperly selected pump.

An additional bonus is the wide range of colors of such devices. If a pump is selected for operation in living conditions, then it is quite possible to choose the execution of a suitable shade for a certain interior.

Popular models from different manufacturers

Sail pump model

You can buy a pump for pumping bottled water from a container of different capacity for quite affordable price. For example, the Sail pump costs about 600 rubles. This type of device is designed to work with containers with a capacity of 11 and 19 liters, made in a mechanical version.

It is distinguished by high quality, which is noticeable in work: it does not creak, does not require much effort, and is easily installed on the neck of the bottle. A distinctive feature of this design is the button, Bottom part which is made in the form of corrugations, but with thick enough walls to withstand heavy loads.

Pump BIORAYWA 3185

An alternative option is the BIORAYWA 3185 pump, designed for containers with a neck diameter of 5.5 cm. This is the main advantage of this model, which expands the scope of the device.

The set also includes a brush for cleaning the product, which simplifies its care. This performance is somewhat more expensive - 900 rubles.

Another model is HotFrost A5 for pumping liquid from containers of 11, 13 and 19 liters. But in addition to this, it is possible to use this device in relation to bottles of 5, 6, 8, 10 liters. For this, a special adapter is included in the kit. Another convenient feature is the presence of an additional section that can be connected to the spout of the device, thereby increasing the overall length of this element by several centimeters.

As you can see, most of the models are mechanical. This is entirely justified for a number of reasons. Firstly, if it is chosen for bottled water, then its price is always very democratic. Secondly, the operation of such options does not require connection to the network or to autonomous power supplies (batteries), although you will have to work a little to get water from containers such as bottles with a capacity of 19 liters.

Operation and care

Model HotFrost A5

To reduce the rate of penetration of dust and other contaminants into the body, it is recommended to close the spout cover (if provided by the design). This will keep the quality of bottled water at a high level.

To avoid damage and contamination of the spout, do not touch it with the water container. After a long period of inactivity, the device must be washed, after disassembling it into its components.

This is done with extreme caution, since most of the structural elements are made of plastic. But in addition to rare downtime, the device needs regular cleaning, regardless of how intensively it was used. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

• The pump is carefully disassembled into components.
• All structural elements should be thoroughly rinsed, again, without much effort. It is not recommended to use aggressive detergents enough clean water.
• If there is heavy dirt, you can leave the pump in hot water(temperature not higher than 60 degrees) for a short period of time - no more than 15 minutes.
• It is necessary to dry all the details of the mechanism, after which you can assemble the device in the reverse order.

For ease of use, some manufacturers equip the pump with a special cleaning element - a brush. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to more efficiently and quickly cope with the cleaning process.

Thus, the task of using large-capacity containers can be facilitated by a rather simple device in design - a pump that is installed on the neck of the bottle. When choosing, you should take into account the volume of the container, as well as the diameter of its neck. Some versions of such devices are equipped with adapters, through which it is possible to use one pump for large and small bottles. The cost of the mechanical type of devices is noticeably lower than the electric ones, and the advantage of the latter is not very noticeable in operation.

To use water from a well or a deep well, it is not at all necessary to raise it to the surface with your hands using a bucket. Modern submersible pumps for relatively little money allow you to get rid of "extra" labor costs and make it possible to automate the water supply of a private house. Many homeowners independently install pumping equipment, connect automation and assemble pipelines. Such events end with varying degrees of success. It often turns out that the submersible pump does not pump water, although you can hear that its motor is running. Let's try to figure out what errors lead to this, and what to do in this case.

This issue must be considered first. The autonomous water supply system, in addition to power pumping equipment, includes other important elements, each of which must work exceptionally well. Also, the pump needs energy and, in fact, water to work.

So, in order for the well to uninterruptedly supply water, four conditions must be met:

1. What to download: the presence of water in the required amount.
2. Due to what to download: high-quality power supply of equipment (voltage, frequency).
3. How to pump: good condition and optimal power / performance of the pump.
4. Why download: properly functioning pipelines with a sufficient cross section and efficient wiring components (faucets, valves, filters, mixers, etc.).

Scheme Scheme of organizing autonomous water supply of a private house from a well

How to search for a problem

A system designed not only for irrigation, but also for water supply at home has the most complex configuration. In this case, it makes sense to consider it section by section. There will be three of them:

• in the well
• in the ground
• in the house.

It is necessary to act by the method of exclusion. First, disconnect the pipe in the caisson, if water flows, then you need to look for problems in the house or in the horizontal section of the pipeline that is in the ground. If the water does not rise at all, the problem is somewhere below.

If the submersible pump is buzzing, but does not pump water, then this means that a mistake has been made somewhere:

• at the stage of selection of components,
• during installation,
• during the period of operation.

Although more or less objective reasons are possible, for example, power surges or a critical drop in the water level in the source. Therefore, if the pump was working normally, and then problems began, it is logical to first pay attention to the variable factors (water and electricity), and then move on to checking the operability of the equipment and wiring. When a new, only assembled system does not start, problems can be anywhere.

A working pump does not pump water: possible malfunctions

Next, we will consider common problems, we will give recommendations on how to diagnose and fix it, if it is possible to do it at home. The list will be numbered, but this does not refer to the search order or the "popularity" of the issues. Sometimes users make several mistakes at once, and often in this "bouquet" some of them are secondary - a consequence of those made earlier and not eliminated in time.

No. 1. Drop in water level in a well or well

The water flows for a while, then the flow is interrupted. The pump (e.g. vibrating) can continue to work, units with built-in thermostat or float switch off. In the presence of protection against dry running, it works. This problem is mainly observed in summer, when aquifers are depleted (a lot of water in the private sector is spent on irrigating cultivated areas, low rainfall). Also, troubles await the owners if mistakes are made during drilling and well construction or its flow rate is incorrectly determined.

Dynamic level may change during the season

In order to avoid pump failure, it is necessary to use protection against dry running. Drilling a well for water should be ordered from a contractor with a good reputation and all permits, which observes all the nuances of the technology, provides a real guarantee and issues a passport to the user for the well. When choosing a drilling depth, listen to the advice of professionals. If the well is old, it may need to be cleaned.

In this case, the pump indicator is considered, indicated in the passport as l./min. (m 3 / h). Sometimes it turns out that the water is pumped out too quickly, and casing fails to fill up. As a result, we have the same “dry run” as in the first paragraph, the “symptoms” will be similar. This usually happens when a large number of points of analysis are turned on at the same time, or “massive” watering of the garden is carried out through pipes / hoses of large diameter.

Performance needs to be fine-tuned pumping equipment, which should correspond to the operating characteristics of the well. The power reserve, if allowed, is small. It is also important how much water can be consumed at the facility at a time or per hour. If the flow rate of the source is small, then sometimes the problem is solved by a competent organization of water analysis - do not turn on all the taps at once.

Number 3. The pressure of the pump is not enough to raise the water and pump it into the house

The pressure characteristic reflects the ability of the equipment to transport water to a certain height at nominal capacity. In other words, if you have a well 50 meters deep, then a device whose passport indicates a total head of 30 meters simply will not squeeze water to the surface. At the same time, you will hear the sound of the motor until the thermal relay turns off the power.

The graph shows the relationship between pump performance and water head

Important! The horizontal section must also be taken into account. It is usually proposed to equate 10 meters of horizontal pipe to 1 meter of vertical. But if the pipeline has increased performance local resistance(many elbows, taps, tees, filters, etc.), it is better to count in a ratio of 5:1.

No. 4. Mains voltage drop

For most pumps, voltage fluctuations become critical. If the drawdown in the network is below 200 volts, then, as a rule, the submersible pump does not turn on at all or starts to work, but the pressure drops sharply, up to a complete stop of water movement (lack of performance) when the motor is running.

You can find the problem with measuring instruments. You can also temporarily connect the pump to the generator - if the water has gone, then the snag is in the power supply. It will be possible to obtain a stable voltage using a stabilizer or an autotransformer.

No. 5. Clogged pipeline, shut-off and control valves, filter on the pump

Similar troubles are observed during the start-up, for example, after assembly new system or after maintenance already in operation. During installation, dirt or foreign particles (linen, scraps of fum tape, etc.) can get into the pipes, which clog filters, cartridges and mixer meshes. It is recommended to be careful when laying pipelines, installing fittings and piping equipment.

Cleanliness is the key to the flawless operation of automated plumbing

If there is a lot of debris, sand, silt in the well, the mesh and impellers of the injection unit become clogged, the submersible pump hums, but does not pump. The only way to fix the problem is to lift the pump to the surface and flush. It is necessary to temporarily let the device work in a container without a check valve and a connected pipe (“through itself”).

Important! Listen to the pump, for almost any problem with the water supply to the top, the sound of the motor changes - usually it becomes quieter.

No. 6. Pipe disconnected from pump or damaged

In this situation, bubbling sounds are heard from the water source. The problem occurs when the pump is working and turned on, but the duct is blocked. Sometimes this happens if the connection is not made correctly (the clamp on the hose is loosely tightened or the HDPE pipe is not fully inserted into the fitting). A common mistake is hanging the pump incorrectly when the cable/cord is loose and all the weight is on the pipe. Pipe ruptures are possible only due to marriage or mechanical damage.

It makes sense to check the quality of the pipe itself and the connection to the pump on the surface. To do this, you can perform a test pumping of water from the tank, including with a short-term artificial blocking of the flow.

No. 7. The pump is out of order

If you hear the sound of the engine, and all the “search activities” did not give a result, perhaps something happened to the blowing unit, or rather, to its mechanical part. For example, for centrifugal pumps, plastic impellers on the shaft may begin to scroll, for vibrating devices, the piston becomes unusable, the stem breaks, etc. In most cases, this is a consequence of operation with the problems listed above, or the solid life of the pump makes itself felt. The way out is to lift, test on the surface, disassemble (preferably in a service center).

Drawing conclusions

In winter, water in some section of the pipe can freeze and block the duct. Sometimes everything is tritely simple - they forgot to open some kind of shut-off valve. Of course, it is impossible to discuss all possible breakdowns and errors, but these are the main ones to start with. In any case, the main thing is to choose the right components of the system and carefully assemble it. Manufacturers of pumps and other equipment used should be followed, and troubleshooting should begin as soon as something goes wrong.

Video: choosing a submersible pump

Sometimes happy owners of a well and autonomous water supply country house faced with a problem when water stops flowing from the tap in the house. There can be many reasons why the pump does not pump water from the source. To get rid of this problem, you need to find and eliminate the cause. In our article, we will describe the most common reasons why a pump may not pump water out of a hydraulic structure. In addition, we will give recommendations on how to eliminate them.

For the correct and uninterrupted operation of pumping equipment, two important components are required - water and electricity. If you identify an element that does not allow the unit to work, it will be easier to find the cause.

In order for a well or other hydraulic structure to supply water uninterruptedly, 4 conditions must be met:

• The source must have water that can be pumped.
• Proper power supply of pumping equipment (frequency and voltage must correspond to the parameters for which the unit is designed).
• The pump must be in good working order, that is, its power and performance must be within normal limits.
• All faucets, filters, valves and piping must be in working order.

Since the water supply system can be used not only for the home, but also for watering the garden, the problem must be looked for in three directions:

• in a hydraulic structure;
• inside the house;
• in the ground.

But it is necessary to act by the method of exception. First, disconnect the supply hose in the caisson. If the liquid flows, then the problem lies in the house or on the main pipeline in the trench. If water does not flow, then the problem should be sought below the ground level in the well or equipment.

If the pump unit is buzzing, but the liquid does not pump, then the problem may be as follows:

1. An error was made during installation, at the stage of selecting components or during operation.
2. Sometimes this happens due to power surges or a significant decrease in the amount of water in the source.
3. Phase failure may occur during internal arrangement electric motor.

Tip: if a previously properly working unit does not pump water, then the reason should be sought in the absence of water or electricity. With new, previously unused equipment, everything will be more complicated. Here the reason can lie anywhere.

Common cause

If your pumping equipment is buzzing, as during operation, but does not pump water from the well, then the reasons may be related to mechanical damage or clogging of the hydraulic structure. To begin with, try to remember what water came out of the tap on the eve of the breakdown.

If a turbid liquid flowed from the tap or the pressure suddenly began to decrease under the standard operating mode of the pumping equipment, then the trouble most likely lies in the well itself. This happens if the hydraulic structure is silted up or clogged. This phenomenon is commonly referred to as well sanding. And it can be called:

• small algae that live in water;
• solid impurities brought by the current;
• shedding of rock from the walls of the tunneling;
• sand lifted from the bottom of the well by pumping equipment.

All these components can clog the clearance of a hydraulic structure. As a result, first muddy water with sand will come out of the tap, then with air, and then the flow will stop altogether. In this case, the protection against dry running in your pumping equipment may not work.

To fix the problem, you need:

1. Pull the submersible pump out of the well.
2. All water from the hydraulic structure is pumped out.
3. Disinfection of the interior space.
4. Re-pump out the water. The time for re-pumping depends on the disinfectant used.

After cleaning the well, the pump should start working. But even if this did not happen, you should not hang your nose, because cleaning the hydraulic structure will benefit the quality of the water and the durability of the source.

What to do next?

If cleaning the well did not help, then the following situations may be the causes of the malfunction:

• failure of mechanical parts of pumping equipment;
• breakdown in the power supply system;
• violation of the tightness and integrity of the main pipeline;
• malfunction of one or more pump control units.

But in order to understand exactly what the reason is, the submersible unit must be raised to the surface from the well. Then the pump is lowered into a container of sufficient size filled with water and started:

1. If the engine starts to work when starting, then there is no breakdown in the electrical system. Otherwise, such malfunctions can be suspected. But the search and elimination of the causes of the breakdown of the electrical system should be carried out by an experienced specialist.
2. It is worth watching a running motor. At the same time, try to visually assess the integrity of all pipelines and hoses. Sometimes the pump does not lift water well due to the fact that the tightness of the hoses is broken, and the pressure in the system has dropped.
3. But a leak may not be noticed right away, especially if the damage is very small. To make such places more noticeable, the outlet on the hose must be closed by hand. Then the pressure in the pipeline will increase, and jets of spurting water will appear in places of depressurization.

Important: it is better not to seal the damaged hose, but to purchase and replace it with a new one. The thing is that due to the strong pressure, the patches can move away.

If the unit works, but does not pump water

Let's say that there are no problems with the electrical system and the integrity of the hoses, but the water pump still does not pump fluid from the well. To look for the answer to the question why the device does not pump water remains only in the pumping equipment itself. To do this, you can do the following:

1. First you need to check the filter device and check valve. They may be clogged, so they will need to be cleaned. In some cases, it may be necessary to replace these products or one of them with a new element due to the complete wear of the old part.
2. The second node to be checked in the BC (household centrifugal) pump is protection against "dry running". The sensor could simply burn out, so the unit began to work in the well without water. This quickly leads to overheating of the motor and failure. It is better not to repair such equipment, but to replace it with a new product. So it will be more reliable and safer to operate the unit in the future.

Common faults

Most often, well owners are faced with a problem when the submersible pump previously worked properly and pumped water, but suddenly the water from the tap stopped flowing. We will list possible faults that led to this situation, and also tell you what to do:

1. Significant lowering of the water level in the hydraulic structure. In this case, the water flows normally at first, then it flows weakly and the flow stops altogether. In this case, equipment with a thermal relay or a float mechanism will automatically turn off. Also, protection against "dry running" may work. Usually, such a problem is observed in the summer during a drought, if mistakes are made when digging a well, a well, or their productivity is incorrectly determined. Solution:
   • always use protection against running dry, so you keep the pump in good working order;
   • drilling a well or a well is best done in winter, when ground water stand at the lowest mark, then in the summer the level will not critically drop;
   • for drilling, contact only professionals;
   • Perhaps the well needs to be cleaned.

1. The performance of the pumping unit is higher than the debit of the hydraulic structure. In other words, the source does not have time to fill with water, and the pump quickly pumps it out. In this situation, the same thing happens as in the case of dry work. Sensors will work and turn off the pump. This can happen if the pumping equipment is not properly selected, many water intake points are open and the garden is watered at the same time. To fix the problem you need:
   • choose the right pump based on the performance of the well and equipment;
   • when choosing, take into account peak hours of water consumption;
   • do not open all the taps in the house at the same time;
   • the power reserve of the motor should be small.

1. Weak pressure does not allow you to raise water from the source. This may also be the case with wrong choice equipment. For example, if a device with a maximum head of 30 m is purchased for a well with a depth of 50 m, then it simply will not be able to raise water to the surface. In this case, you will hear the sound of the operating unit until the thermal relay cuts off the power. To fix the problem, you need to choose the right pump.

Tip: when selecting a unit for pressure, horizontal sections of the pipeline should also be taken into account. At the same time, they are considered in the proportion of 5 to 1, that is, 5 meters of the horizontal are equated to 1 meter of the vertical.

1. Voltage drop. Many pumps are very sensitive to mains voltage fluctuations. When it falls below 200V, the submersible unit may either not turn on at all, or start up, but sharply reduce the pressure and then stop the water supply. To find the problem, you need measuring instruments. You can do the following to fix it:
   • connect the pump to the generator;
   • use a voltage stabilizer or autotransformer.

1. Clogging of the pipeline, shut-off valves or filtering device on pumping equipment. This often occurs during first start-up or after maintenance, resulting in debris, dust and dirt entering the pipes, clogging the listed parts. Sometimes this happens due to the ingress of debris from the bottom of the hydraulic structure. To deal with the problem is:
   • be careful when assembling new equipment or performing maintenance;
   • lift the pumping equipment to the surface and rinse it, for this the unit must work in a container with water with the check valve removed and without a pipeline.

1. Disconnection or damage to the pipeline. In this case, gurgling water will be heard from the source. It is necessary to check the connection and integrity of the hose.
2. Complete failure of pumping equipment. If the sound of a running motor is heard, but you have not found other reasons, then malfunctions with the mechanical parts of the pump can be assumed. It remains to lift the unit to the surface and carry it to the service center.

Motor pump does not pump

(too old post to reply)

2008-05-15 01:33:35 UTC

water,
hose with water ... but the instructions say that the type of this pump
self-filling (what this means is not clear) ... it is also written that it is necessary






hose at the time of starting the engine, and did not flow back into the basement ... in short

Valentin Davydov

2008-05-15 06:38:57 UTC

Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 01:33:35 +0000 (UTC)
Maybe someone has experience with motor pumps ..., there is a SA 45 TL motor pump
OLEO-Mac, with a power of 2.5 kW, it is necessary to pump out water from a basement 5 m deep,
suction height 7.5 m, hole diameter 50.8 mm, motor running, pump not
shakes, like I do everything according to the instructions, open the top cap, pour it in
water,

Completely, I hope?

I start the engine, I wait four minutes, it doesn’t pump, it’s written that I need to fill it up
water hose...

but the instructions say that the type of this pump
self-filling (what this means is not clear) ...

Inside the snail there is a channel (s) that pour water from the exit back to the entrance,
plus one or another way of separating air.

it is also written that
fill the pipe with water ... but HOW, when the hose is connected to the pump or it needs
disconnect and fill (hose 6 m, heavy, with thick rubber, so as not to
collapsed and filled with three buckets of water is difficult to connect to the pump), but also
in either case, when you fill the hose with water, the water simply does not drain
remaining in the hose, a non-return valve was not supplied with the pump, yes I
I think it’s hard to find a check valve for such a pipe diameter so that the water stays in
hose at the time of starting the engine, and did not flow back into the basement ...

Reverse
valve? Then pour the hose on the surface, check that the pump is pumping, and
then again fill the hose and lower it into the basement, trying not to draw water into it
air.

shorter
frustrated at the prospect of manual scooping, pump not working, his
lack of knowledge on this subject...

for air suction.

Shaft. Dove.

2008-05-15 08:18:43 UTC

does not pump, like I do everything according to the instructions, I open the top cap,
I fill it with water

VD> Completely, I hope?
Yes, I pour until the water starts to overflow ...

I start the engine, I wait four minutes, it doesn’t pump, it’s written that I need to fill it up
water hose...

VD> Napsano also that 100 seconds is enough.

VD> In the inlet filter (intake) at the end of the hose, isn't there
VD>
VD>
VD> draw air into it.

water?
because from the surface of the earth to the water mirror two meters, this is what I need
lower the ladder, go down to the basement, standing chest-deep in cold water, clamp
hand hole so that water does not pour in, and the second must fill this
suction hose through the outlet?

VD> The instructions say (in bold, by the way) to check the seals
VD> for air leaks.

Valentin Davydov

2008-05-15 10:43:55 UTC

Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 08:18:43 +0000 (UTC)
VD> Napsano also that 100 seconds is enough.
Has the pump deteriorated if it worked without water for 5-10 minutes?

And God knows what kind of stuffing box she has on the shaft. In theory, it shouldn't.

VD> In the inlet filter (intake) at the end of the hose, isn't there
VD> check valve? Then pour the hose on the surface, check that the pump
VD> pumps, and then pour the hose again and lower it into the basement, trying not to
VD> draw air into it.
yes, when the hose is full and pumps from the barrel, the problem is how to lower the hard
a thick hose into the throat of the basement (one and a half by one and a half) without pouring out the poured
water?

VD> The instructions say (in bold, by the way) to check the seals
VD> for air leaks.
Yes, I checked ... all the hoses are tightened with clamps

Please answer, otherwise you will probably have to buy a wetsuit and climb into
cold water and lie down with your chest on the embrasure, that is, to plug the pipe with something,
while the other will fill it with water ....

Cheaper to buy a submersible electric pump, in my opinion. If there is nearby
electricity, of course.

Shaft. Dove.

2008-05-16 00:55:32 UTC

VD> For example, lower the middle with a loop, and then the end, plugging the output
VD> pump nozzle so that air is not sucked through it.

no, it won’t work, you first have to lower the end of the hose into the basement, and then
pushing the pump, lower the hose, I’ll go on the weekend, put on swamp boots and
I’ll go down, the main thing is to be able to fill this hose through the outlet,
so that the snail passes the water further to the suction hose ....

VD> And the plastic pipes are not cracked, do they sit well in their seals?
no it didn't crack

VD> Cheaper to buy a submersible electric pump, in my opinion. If nearby
VD> there is electricity, of course.

Well, electricity is not safe in a humid environment, and not in this area either
there is no light in the water, it fills it in the spring (10 cubic meters), you scoop it up until August and
watering ... and now I would like to raise water into the tank ....

2008-05-15 04:19:40 UTC

Hello S_Stepanov!

[kus]
SS> scooping, not working pump, its lack of knowledge on this
SS> question...
I have no experience with motor pumps, there is a small one with "electro". Theses:
1. There is a 2" check valve in nature, and inexpensively.
2. Check the tightness of the fastening of that hose to the pump inlet and the absence of holes in
hose above the water level, whether there is air leakage.
3. Did she work before or right away?

Bye!

2008-05-26 01:47:24 UTC

So I experimented ... a motor pump pumps from barrel to barrel .. I even had to
lower the pump closer to the water surface, i.e. make an extension in a narrow (1.5 X
1.5) throat of the basement and lower the twenty-kilogram pump by two meters, also
pumps when the hose is completely in the water, the question remains, since the pump is necessary
use very often, then how to fill the hose with water from the water mirror to
pumps (2 m), something like a check valve

2008-05-26 03:37:42 UTC

Hello S_Stepanov!

SS> 20 kg pump, also pumps when the hose is completely in the water,
SS> the question remains since the pomp should be used very often, then how
SS> fill the hose with water from the water mirror to the pump (2 m), something like
SS> check valve

The main thing is that the water is in the pump body itself. For this, it is traditional
an additional tank of 10-20 liters is made with a tap. When starting the pump, the faucet
opens, water goes to the impeller, the impeller starts to suck. How to process
went - the water begins to pour back through the tap. Waiting for the tank to fill up
close the faucet until next time.

2008-05-26 08:08:12 UTC

MKP> The main thing is that the water was in the pump body itself. For this
MKP> traditionally an additional tank of 10-20 liters is made with a tap. At
MKP> when the pump is started, the tap opens, water goes to the impeller, the impeller
MKP> starts to suck. How the process went - water begins to pour through the tap
MKP> back. We are waiting for the tank to fill and close the tap until the next
MKP> times.
--- 1---| 1 - Plug filling the pump, a little further away is the outgoing
pipe branch
| <-- впускной патрубок, но он закрыт резиновой прокладкой, чтоб
| water did not leave the pump housing
________|

So where should I pour water from the barrel into the outgoing pipe or into the hole for
filling the pump, and what will happen after the pump housing is filled, the water in
the hose does not get in due to the rubber gasket, which only works on the inlet,
and the air layer in the hose remains ... it turns out, after filling the body
water from the barrel, and whether the air layer disappears after the pressure
will equalize and the engine will start to work ..?

2008-05-26 08:56:58 UTC

Hello S_Stepanov!

SS> I also thought about lowering the hose from the outgoing pipe back
SS> to the basement to pressurize the suction hose...something
SS> slips about the ejector, but it's not clear what's what....

Chingachgook is a big bastard. Makc K Petrov

2008-05-27 02:48:17 UTC

MKP> Not help, because. perpetual motion is impossible :)

In short, I realized that before buying a pump, you need to be interested not only






neither at firefighters, nor at pumping stations ... there are also specialists, some textbooks,

2008-05-27 08:58:35 UTC

SS> a check valve in the form of a rubber round will not withstand such pressure (even
SS> backwater from the bottom of the water will not help), but a more powerful check valve on springs will not
SS> the pump will pump ... There is one caveat, do such situations not occur

I'm embarrassed to ask - have you ever seen a check valve? What you
you call it a "powerful check valve on springs"? The beauty of a check valve
just in the fact that in the direction of the flow of water it creates resistance
close to zero, and in the opposite direction - close to infinity.

--
Best regards, Alex Bakhtin, CCIE #8439
AMT Group, Cisco Systems Gold Partner, http://www.amt.ru

Valentin Davydov

2008-05-27 09:30:54 UTC

Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 02:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
MKP> Not help, because. perpetual motion is impossible :)
This is not a perpetual motion machine, because work is still being done
engine ... it just slipped on the internet to increase the pressure in
suction hose, they make an ejector, but they don’t explain what’s what and what it is
the beast and the principle of its work is also not clear ...

In short, I realized that before buying a pump, you need to be interested

And you bought it too? I once thought that she was free for you
got. Because if I were you, I would buy something with 25mm
nozzles for a three to four times less amount, and a transparent inlet hose,
to see where it sucks.

Not only
height of water rise, power, but also what is the maximum air bubble
allowed in the suction hose .... because if with a diameter of 50 mm and a height of 7
meters, it turns out you need 100 liters of water to fill this hose,
check valve in the form of a rubber round will not withstand such pressure (even
water support from below will not help), but a more powerful check valve on springs will not
the pump will pump ... There is one caveat, do such situations not occur
not at fire departments, not at pumping stations...

Meet. And there these problems are solved by appropriate measures. Starting
from the starting barrel, connected by cranes to the inlet and outlet, and ending
(on large pumping stations) specially adapted vacuum
pump for drawing air from the inlet pipe.

there are specialists, some textbooks,
but on the Internet, you can even find a pump device figs ... one spam and porn ...

http://www.google.com/search?q=self-priming+pumps, the first link.

P.S. Here's where it's written briefly and sensibly:
http://www.elektroagregat.ru/vibiraem/pump/1.html