Design

Homemade faucet made of polypropylene. Making homemade mixers

Making homemade mixers

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe trimmings, squeegees, shower nets. If we compare home-made mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the first ones, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not for bathrooms with comfort.

Rice. 68. Homemade shower faucet with fixed shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower grid; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with fixed shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

but- according to the type of diffuser of a garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - mesh diffuser; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - locknut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - bank without a bottom; 6 - perforated bottom

in- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - clutch; 3 - branch pipe.

However, when they are sometimes nevertheless installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves, if at the entrance to the apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “grade” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves that form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called "pumping": hot water will fall into the cold. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the lower valve that opens water into a bathtub or sink can be completely replaced by a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate part is needed - a square, into which we screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The valve has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

Numbers and an arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after the pipe is screwed into the housing.

The arrow on the body must necessarily "look" in the direction of the movement of water. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistances occur. They are very disturbing, reducing the pressure of the water. This is very noticeable in upper floors houses during peak water analyzes, and on garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed later. Water should enter through the pipe to the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more noticeable, the stem is screwed or unscrewed with a flywheel.

A garden watering can diffuser is suitable as a shower screen in a faucet. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made from tin of large cans. Its details (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called in roofing "lying seam". The seam is soldered or painted over with oil paint, which prevents leakage and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Jets of water from the seam, beating with a fountain on the ceiling with strong water pressure, will also not cause delight among any owners of the shower room.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before folding are made on the side that is not subjected to soldering. Cuts are preferably made with roofing scissors or, in extreme cases, large tailor's. Using other types of scissors will dull them. The chisel perfectly cuts through the tin on the board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for the production of a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The diffuser tube is put on with cuts on the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the incisions, fixing the diffuser on the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer break the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “original product” for the shower net (Fig. 70b). Although the shower net from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is more inconspicuous.

Designing a shower screen begins with cutting out the lid when opening the jar. A hole in the center of the lid is cut out so that the end of the shower tube enters it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the jumpers between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Washers, gaskets and locknuts fix the cover on the end of the shower tube. The holes forming the grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining suit of the can with walls or in the second can. Operations for the "organization" of the grid will be more convenient if the tin can is planted on a log. Then the outer side of the bottom is hammered with a nail and a hammer.

The disadvantage of the design of a shower net made of cans is that in order to connect its parts, you need to unscrew the shower pipe from the mixer. Do not solder on weight and at height ?!

There is no need to “invent” a shower screen if there are parts from a flexible hose of a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a branch pipe and a union nut from a standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the nozzle and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either they are looking for a branch pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or they are machined into lathe parts with the required thread.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that were produced in past years. "Meeting" and mixing cold and hot water takes place in a chrome-plated brass tube. The expiration of the mixture - through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps, various forms of pouring, etc. It is convenient to mount such a mixer, for example, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flowing gas water heater and a faucet on a pipe with cold water.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not “request” any additions. But over the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled onto his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. This was foreseen by the designers. There are sinks, on the shelves of which they are mounted on a mixer and on a brush on a flexible hose. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and a holder is also included in the set of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially suitable when the faucet is above a bathtub, drip tray, etc.

The mixer due to the simplicity of the design has disadvantages. To prevent cracks on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement ...” or “rubber hose for gas welding and metal cutting”.

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- grid; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

So that the rubber tubes do not jump off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are pulled together with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

Ingeniously crafted factory holder. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with an internal thread. This washer is locked by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, pos. 4). The holder is fixed on the nipple of the mixer thanks to a hole in the rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is machined independently on a lathe. An internal hex on a snow nut is not needed. It will be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, pos. 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic. The diameters of the tubes of the tee are selected according to the available rubber tubes.

Water taps

Table crane repair

The water-folding table taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet table tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). Bottom part The housing nozzle has four protrusions evenly spaced around the circumference just above the thread. With these protrusions, the faucet is fixed from turning in the rectangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Table toilet taps:

but- KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - drive; 2 - locknut; 3 - seal; 4 - short sleeve; 5 - barrel; 6 - long sleeve; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - crane body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a tap.

The gap between the square hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, then water will flow through the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will be not only in the occurrence of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline from an inexperienced owner will cause suspicion. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is an erroneous technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, available in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it in such a way as to exclude gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular opening of the shelf 10 . If the standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 do not block the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the desired thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during the operation of the crane for several reasons: rubber drying, pipeline shift, weak initial tightening of the locknut. The use of putty, plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest elimination of gaps. Cement works too. After drying, it is covered with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may be with some marriage. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can smear the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins with window putty.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the stuffing box bushing and, finally, trickles from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is established after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the stuffing box bushing usually eliminates the trickle from under it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 replace. In the absence of new rubber rings, thread seal strands are wound on the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such a repair, the spout must not be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often do not have holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop faucet cannot be inserted into a shelf. Solution: use a wall-mounted faucet or faucet. But you can be very careful desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and put it on a plane so that it does not sway. The shape of the hole on the back of the shelf is outlined. With a sharp narrow chisel, first gently knock down a thin layer of glaze. Then gradually make a deepening. A carbide drill with an electric drill can also drill holes. It is clear that the second and third holes must be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before you start this job, try it on a piece of faience, on a broken washbasin, a worn-out cistern body, etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes end up with a large hole with very jagged edges. Faience comes in different hardness and plasticity. The gaskets and washers supplied with the faucet will not block such an opening. Therefore, it is desirable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with a lock nut on the valve body.

Chassis installation or replacement 11 faucet, as a rule, is done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connection of the supply pipe must be placed below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the instrument and the wall of the room.

Squeeze is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an inner diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the shackle are threaded GI/2. On one side, the length of the thread is longer. The clutch is completely screwed onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of table taps: for KTN10D, a 3/8" inlet pipe is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like the toilet wall tap KT15D.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially enters the round groove in the lower part of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes an expandable plastic ring. 15 at protecting the spout from popping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring is broken, it can be made from copper wire. Rubber rings for sale. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Cranes KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outgoing part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream is completely weakened. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the opposite direction to the flow in the spout.

Repair of wall faucets

These include brass specks KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through the coupling 2 on pipes with a conditional inner diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2 "and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3 - seal; 4 - shell back; 5 - crane body; 6 - gasket; 7 - crane head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially useful in the garden or personal plot. In the absence of a plug or plug, a tap can also be used.

Especially for these faucets, sinks of the PC type are produced: RS-1 - with one hole in the back, RS-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a back and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often lacks screws with galvanized heads for fixing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but coat their heads with white oil paint before installation and let them dry.

A cast-iron siphon-revision is necessary for this type of sink, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be adapted here. PC sinks do not have a large hole in the bottom for installing a plastic siphon outlet. The metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast-iron revision siphon. Between them there is a gap through which, in case of blockage sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, before lowering it into the siphon water trap, screw a strand of seal onto the metal outlet of the sink. Be sure to impregnate this strand with resin or oil paint, which will prevent the seal from rotting.

After a tight connection between the outlet and the siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it when wet with a strip of gauze or a bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

The PCV-1 and RSV-2 sinks differ from the PC sinks in that plastic bottle siphons are installed in them. The use of wall faucets with washbasins and sinks is of little use. The fact is that the closer the "nose" of the tap to the outlet, the less splashing.

The outlet of the sink is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the spout of the tap is at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, outlets are located at a distance of 180–255 mm from the wall. To reduce splashing, place the faucet close to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the faucet spout.

Some push the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then for this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between the chrome faucet and the outer color of the pipe.

The toilet wall tap KT15D (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, his spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When trying to turn the spout from the threaded connection with the body, it began to drip. The spout had to be turned inside out, the threads of the seal were screwed onto the threads and again, with difficulty, wrapped it into the body.

Rice. 74. Wall-mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - branch pipe; 5 - crane body; 7 - crane head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expandable plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is attached to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal 8 and expandable plastic ring 9 spout can be rotated. The rubber ring protects against leakage along the spout, and the expanding ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic expansion ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to "soften". Under the rubber ring, when it is worn, wind up, for example, threads or purchase a new one at the Plumbing store. From a suitable rubber tube, you can cut the necessary rings yourself, but in quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with inner diameter 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the clutch 2 . The pipe is pre-screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe even at a time when the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After the branch pipe is separated, the burrs are cleaned on it, the seal is screwed on and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of the plate, you can use the handle of the fixed lever pipe wrench old design with a handle made of multi-millimeter steel plate.

In the KT15D crane, the connection of the body with the supply pipe is simplified. The branch pipe and the body are combined, while only a coupling is needed for docking.

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Polypropylene pipes found wide application due to low cost, long service life and ease of installation. Everyone can do the installation of polypropylene pipes with their own hands, the main thing is to plan the installation work correctly and know the features of welding polypropylene pipes.

Fig.1.

Unlike other types of pipes for the installation of polypropylene, you must have a special tool - this welding machine for polypropylene pipes and scissors for cutting pipes. It should be noted that, despite the need to purchase a special tool, polypropylene pipes still win in terms of cost, due to the cheapness of the pipes and fittings themselves.

Fig.2.

Where can polypropylene pipes be used?

Polypropylene pipes have no restrictions on applicability, with the only exception being the temperature of the liquid passing through them. It should not exceed 90 degrees. In connection with this, it is not advisable to use polypropylene pipes in heating systems for city apartments, because. often the water temperature in such heating systems is more than 90 degrees. For country houses, where the temperature regime of heating is lower, reinforced propylene pipes are perfect.

Fig.3.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Features of the installation of polypropylene pipes

Installation of polypropylene pipes should start from the riser, gradually lengthening the water supply line according to the scheme, the location of plumbing fixtures. During installation, it is necessary to install supports for polypropylene pipes. Also, in the case of a large length of the pipeline, a compensation elbow should be provided.

Fig.7.

Since during operation the length of the pipes will change due to thermal expansion. The compensation knee will remove the tensile loads on the water supply system, thereby protecting it from damage. Also, when crossing pipelines, you can use a special fitting - a bypass.

Fig.8.

Of great interest and practical value in the installation of polypropylene pipes with your own hands is the correct selection of fittings. The use of simple fittings such as elbows, tees, couplings and plugs is unlikely to cause major problems. The main interest is the selection of fittings for connecting various devices of a mixer, toilet bowl, counters, etc.

Connecting a bath and basin faucet

The connection of the bath faucet can be made using one of two types of fittings: mounting plate and "water socket". To connect the mixer, the mounting plate is more convenient, because. it already provides for the correct relative position of the holes for connecting the mixer. However, the water socket is also suitable for this purpose, thanks to the presence of special holes for mounting to the wall. In the latter case, it is necessary to fix the sockets at a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the nozzles at the mixer.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

When connecting a basin faucet, provided that there are no requirements for the position of the connection holes, it is convenient to use water sockets or combined one-piece fittings.

Polypropylene taps

When installing polypropylene pipes, two types of taps can be used: polypropylene and metal. If the entire plumbing is made of polypropylene, then it is more expedient to use polypropylene taps, it is both cheaper and more convenient.

Fig.12.

If it is necessary to install a crane in the transition between different types pipes, for example, metal and polypropylene, or on the riser, it is advisable to use a metal valve, while using a detachable combined fitting.

Fig.13.

It should also be noted that if we are talking about the installation of polypropylene pipes in the country, then it is more expedient to use either polypropylene taps or traditional brass, but not ball valves. Quite often there are cases when under a ball of metal ball valve water gets in and when it freezes, it breaks the faucet. Ball polypropylene valve under similar conditions does not suffer, because. polypropylene is a more flexible material.

Counter installation

Unlike shutoff valves, there are no meters made of polypropylene, and, therefore, a special fitting must be used to connect it. To connect the meter to polypropylene water supply it is convenient to use a combined one-piece fitting.

Fig.14.

Fig.16.

Water heater connection

It should be noted that the water heater can be connected to the water supply with hoses. In this case, water outlets or combined one-piece fittings are perfect.

Fig.17.

Fig.18.

Fig.19.

If the connection is made directly to the water supply, then it is advisable to use collapsible fittings and polypropylene taps. To be able to turn off and remove the water heater.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

Now that the main points for the installation of polypropylene pipes are covered, we can say about the process of pipe welding itself. Welding of polypropylene pipes is carried out by heating the surface of the pipe using a welding machine. The whole welding process consists in the fact that two parts to be joined are heated at once, after which they are connected and after cooling they are tightly connected.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

This is the main drawback of polypropylene pipes, that if a node is welded incorrectly, then it is impossible to redo it, it is only possible to assemble a new one. Therefore, the welding process should be treated responsibly so as not to spoil the fittings and pipes.

However, in some cases, an incorrectly welded element can be corrected. Couplings can be used for this. In the photo below, how to fix an incorrectly welded joint using a coupling.

Fig.22.

Fig.23.

Do-it-yourself procedure for welding polypropylene pipes

Using special scissors, cut the required size of the pipe. If the pipe is cut with a saw, then all burrs formed during the cutting process should be removed.

Fig.24.

Next, make a mark on the pipe and fitting with a marker or pencil. This mark is necessary in order to subsequently connect both parts in the correct orientation. It should be noted that some manufacturers immediately establish the risks, which greatly facilitates the work.

Fig.25.

Fig.26.

There are three important points to note here.

First, most welding machines have a temperature controller. For room temperature, it is optimal to have a welding machine temperature of approximately 270 degrees. If welding is performed outdoors or at low temperatures, the heating temperature should be increased.
Secondly, for welding polypropylene pipes, exposure of parts during heating is important. So for a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 5s; 25mm - 7s; 32 mm - 8 s; 40 mm - 12s. Here again, you should remember the temperature of the welding machine. The selection of the optimal mode lies in the fact that the heating of the places of the parts to be joined is uniform.
Thirdly, when heating parts, you can’t turn them on the nozzle, you can only put them on, and take them off after heating.

Fig.27.

After the parts have warmed up, they must be carefully removed from the nozzle and connected. During connection, they must not be rotated relative to each other, this will disrupt the quality of welding. After the parts are connected, they should be held stationary for 10-30 seconds so that the welding site freezes.

In conclusion, two pieces of advice can be given for welding polypropylene pipes.

When welding polypropylene pipes, do not connect the parts for the entire length of the heated pipe. The pipe on the welding machine warms up by about 15 mm. When connecting, it should be done for a length of 10 mm. Otherwise, an influx of material is formed from the inside of the pipe, as well as from the outside. Due to the influx of pipe material, the flow area decreases, which contributes to the accumulation of any deposits in this place, thereby clogging the water supply.

Fig.28.

Most welding machines are equipped with a special clamp. It is necessary for fastening to a workbench or table. It is convenient to weld pipes if the welding machine is not mobile, so do not neglect to pre-fix it, for example, to a stool.

Fig.29.

We examined all the features of welding polypropylene pipes and using various fittings to connect the most common water supply devices. Despite the simplicity of welding polypropylene pipes, this work is very responsible, because. pipes will last for many years. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to mark the passage of pipes and determine the necessary set of fittings and pipes, and only then begin installation. Installation should start from the riser. The guarantee of high-quality welding is the optimal temperature of the welding machine. Before starting work, it will not be superfluous to make one test connection to check the choice of the correct temperature regime. And remember that the welding machine has a temperature of 270-320 degrees and with careless handling it is easy to get a severe burn, so welding of polypropylene pipes should be carried out in special protective gloves or mittens.

Do you want to seriously repair and update the apartment? Then it will not be superfluous to find out that one of the most basic stages overhaul housing is the replacement of old plumbing and pipes with new ones. In addition, this is the most impressive item of expenditure in the budget allocated for these works.

To reduce the already impressive costs is the normal desire of every zealous owner. Do you agree? It is quite realistic to reduce them: do-it-yourself plumbing installation will help. We will tell you how to make the wiring, how to transfer and connect plumbing equipment, what tools and materials are needed.

You will learn how to independently change the pipes in the bathroom and connect plumbing fixtures. And in order to make it easier to understand the repair issue, the article provides thematic photo guides and video instructions.

Sample projects high-rise buildings are not suitable for everyone, and the owners of the apartment are trying to remake the plumbing according to their preferences. This set of works is very troublesome and time-consuming, however, if you study the theoretical side of the issue well and follow the instructions exactly, most of the work (if not all) can be done independently.

We understand the details of installing a new faucet in the kitchen. Installation in the countertop and connection to the water supply system. How to ensure long-term operation without leakage.

1. Before starting work

First, it is necessary to turn off the water to avoid possible flooding;
Open the faucet to remove the water that remains;
Examine the passport for a new kitchen faucet made by moscowmebel.com or another factory.

2. Preparation

To replace, we need the following materials and tools:

Adjustable wrench (alternative - wrench);
Two types of screwdrivers - flat and Phillips;
Sandpaper;
Flashlight;
Container for draining water, when replacing the siphon;
New mixer.

If the model kitchen sink removable, it is desirable to remove it. Thus, it will be easier to dismantle the old product and install a new one.

The chrome-plated siphon for the kitchen sink is tightened with an adjustable wrench.

In the event that the old faucet belongs to the economy class, it is better to replace the soft hoses that connect the product and the water supply.

3. Dismantling

Before starting dismantling, turn off the water in the bathroom to prevent flooding.

Stages:

We find the connection point with the pipes of the plumbing system.
We fix the place of attachment of the product with a sink;
If the sink is consignment note, we will dismantle it;
We remove the soft tubes with an adjustable wrench, and pour the water into the prepared container.

We remove the part of the siphon (lower).
We dismantle and turn the sink so as to organize maximum convenient access to the junction.
We loosen the nut and other fasteners with an adjustable wrench, then dismantle the threaded pins with a screwdriver. To prevent the product from falling, control its position.
We remove the special clamp, flexible hoses and mixer. We pull out the hoses through the mounting hole.

4. Mounting

The day before, you should check the condition of the mounting hole. If dirt has accumulated in it, it must be removed.

Details necessary for correct installation.

Before starting the installation, install the hoses (water supply).

Stages:

1. We fix a special gasket (annular) on the base in the provided groove. This procedure will allow you to make a sealed system.

2. We stretch the hoses and then turn the sink over to its original position, holding the mixer. Check the position of the gasket - it should remain in place.

3. Install the seal and pressure plate (they must have the same shape).

4. We screw in special pins (threaded).

Reliable fastening due to threaded pins.

5. Tighten the mounting nuts with an adjustable wrench.

If the nuts are loosely tightened, the mixer will constantly scroll.

5. Launch

Check four connections;
After making sure that everything is in order, close the tap and turn on the water;
Alternately check the supply of cold and hot water to eliminate the risk of leaks.

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Polypropylene taps cause distrust among many buyers due to the fact that they consider the material of manufacture to be unreliable and short-lived. Meanwhile, modern technologies ensure the highest quality of workmanship, due to which, in terms of their properties, such cranes are not inferior to metal products, and in some respects even surpass them. This article will consider the main features of this type of product and the criteria for choosing high-quality models.

Advantages of this product group

Cranes for polypropylene pipes can be very different: steel, brass or from the same material as the main communications. It is the latter option that we will consider in more detail, especially since it has a number of undeniable advantages:

Ease of installation	Any specialist will confirm that it is much easier to install a polypropylene faucet with your own hands than a metal one. The fastening system is, and most importantly, to choose nodes with the desired thread so that you do not have to return to the store again for a replacement
Low weight	The mass of structures of this type is much lower than that of other options. This not only simplifies their loading and transportation, but also reduces the load on the structure, which in some cases is a fundamental factor when choosing
Corrosion resistance	Due to the fact that polypropylene is not subject to corrosion processes, the inner surface of the nodes remains smooth for many years, plaque does not accumulate on it and the likelihood of blockages is significantly reduced.
Ease of operation	After installation and assembly of the system, the cranes do not need maintenance, that is, communications do not need periodic checks and cleaning, which is very important in places that are difficult to access for any reason
Durability	The service life of products made of polypropylene is about 50 years, which exceeds the performance of most analogues. At the same time, the price of products is very democratic, which can also be attributed to important advantages.

Important!
Another important advantage is the fact that locking mechanism It is made of high quality stainless steel, which guarantees the durability of the structure and its resistance to adverse effects.

Features of polypropylene taps

First you need to understand the main design features, this will allow you to better understand how the system functions.

Device

Products can be made from different types raw materials, most often the upper limit of heat resistance is limited to 95 degrees. It is best to choose designs from the PPRC raw material brand, the size range of products is quite wide, but the most common are the sizes 20, 25, 32 and 50 mm, but other options can be found.

Regardless of the size, the design consists of the following components:

Housing made from the highest strength polypropylene. It is very important that the assembly is cast with high quality, without any flaws and superficial defects.
The locking element is a ball with a hole for the flow of water. It is best if it is made of stainless steel and the surface is polished with a laser, this ensures the tightest and most secure fit.
The stem is the axis on which the locking mechanism is mounted, it must be fitted very precisely to prevent even minimal play.
O-rings are used to prevent water from penetrating through the stem mounts., they must be made of high quality rubber.
Two rings are used for a snug fit of the ball to the body, which can be used either from PTFE or Teflon.
The adjustment of the mechanism is carried out using a handle, which is attached with a special screw..

Product types

Depending on the design features all such products can be divided into several groups.

For example, depending on the type of case, the following options can be distinguished:

Non-separable options have a solid body, they are easy to operate and cost a little. But the biggest drawback is the fact that in the event of a breakdown, the assembly is not repaired, but replaced entirely.
Collapsible cases are more massive and more complex, but in the event of a malfunction, they can be repaired by replacing worn gaskets or entire parts of the system without replacing the entire assembly.

Depending on the flow direction, the following types exist:

Straight lines through which fluid flows in one direction.
Corner, in which the direction of the flow changes, they are most in demand when