Pipes

Laminate for parquet: photo, installation instructions. Laminate layout: do-it-yourself scheme and methods In which cases it is impossible to lay a laminate

2013-10-21

Patterned laminate flooring?

VIDEO Patterned laminate

Laminate is the most popular floor covering today. The product consists, as a rule, of four layers: the lower stabilizing, the middle carrier, the near-surface decorative and the upper protective (made of acrylic or melamine resin). Wide recognition of buyers in many European countries has received this material for its beauty, strong durability and affordable cost. In order for your laminate floor to look great not only after installation, but also after many years of operation, it is important to take care of the quality of the purchased product, as well as the preparation of the base floor. So what can i lay laminate on?

Today laminate- the most common flooring. A beautiful floor that does not differ in appearance from natural parquet, is durable, easy to install and at a low price. It is so easy to use that even a beginner knows how to install laminate. But when starting to repair, each of us tries to purchase a laminate so that we don’t have to go a second time, and we don’t take too much. So how to calculate how much laminate you need?

Sealant for laminate provides maximum protection for your flooring at the junction of the lamellas. Among the wide variety of sealants, buyers hear Bostik Clic Protect or Click Guard. Which sealant for laminate joints parquet to use: Bostik Clic Protect or Click Guard? Do I need a sealant when laying laminate flooring?? Let's take a closer look.

Patterned laminate flooring- it is worth knowing that the installation of flooring is the final element of the renovation of the premises. The laminate is laid exclusively on a flat floor - the base. Permissible unevenness: 2 mm. per 1 square meter of space. If there are cracks, potholes, rot in the floor, as well as obvious unevenness, then a floor screed should be performed.

Laminate more and more wins our hearts. Old painted wooden floors go down in history, laminate attracts us not only with its perfect appearance, but also with its low price. Laminate is used in residential and commercial premises, laying laminate even in rooms with high humidity. And by the way, do-it-yourself laminate even a girl can do it. Surprised?...

Every owner wants to know everything. That is why we offer short instructions on how to lay laminate in an apartment: where to start laying laminate in an apartment, what materials and tools you need to use, and what you need to be prepared for in case of incorrect installation.

Many, looking at the artistic laminate, have never thought about whether to buy it? But as a rule, the majority faced a number of prejudices, wondering how to style the artist? Oddly enough, laying is not as difficult as most people make it out to be. Yes, of course, there are subtleties in fitting the pattern, a little more coverage than with a conventional laminate, but the result is worth it! Actually, according to the same principle, a laminate under a tile and any other wide laminate requiring the formation of a pattern, the so-called laminate with a pattern, is placed.
And so, we will lay the artist on the example of one of the flowers called Barcelo. I can say in advance that already what is laid amazes the owner. As the saying goes, what is beautiful cannot be disliked.

Of the tools we need:

1. Pencil
2. Roulette
3. Angle
4. Ruler
5. Jigsaw or, as in our case, a circular saw with a "clean cut" circle.
6. Hands and brains without fear and with little understanding in construction.

Perhaps this is all. Did you notice I don't mention all the crap like laying tool, hammer and stuff? This is not something that is not needed, it is absolutely impossible to beat an artistic laminate. You essentially prick its edges and don’t really score anything! We collect only by hand! In fact, this is what distinguishes the assembly of the artist from the classics, well, plus the fit of the picture. In the photographs, we forgot to take into account the first stage of work on rolling out the substrate, mounting the first line. In fact, everyone knows how to roll out the substrate, the main thing here is not to overlap the strips, but to glue the joints of the substrate with adhesive tape. No tape? It doesn’t matter, this is done purely for ease of installation of a wide laminate and nothing more. The general principle of laying laminate. To begin with, we need to understand in which direction we begin to lay the laminate and, depending on this, the receiving strip lock will go to the right or left of the wall. In our practical story, we will consider the so-called laying of a laminate in one layer or without a threshold, which is most relevant for small rooms and the threshold will visually only cut it into sections. But due to the length of the strips, it can seriously complicate the work of a beginner. Here is our room (corridor with an entrance area leading to the kitchen):

The photo shows a view from the kitchen to the entrance. Because laying laminated thin parquet should be carried out without a threshold in a continuous layer, we choose laying from a longer room to a smaller one. The direction of the lamellas will go, as it were, along the long side, so we get more whole parts and fewer pieces and useless sawdust. We lay the first strip along the wall, not forgetting to step back from it by 5-6 mm (thermal break). Pay attention to the side joints of the first strip. They must be perfectly fitted, because. all further assembly of the common layer depends on them. Distortions in a millimeter will ultimately lead to the impossibility of assembling subsequent layers.

The first strip ran into the pipes of the battery, we had to spoil the lamella covering the entire layer by cutting out the recesses for the pipes. We started the next layer by adjusting the pattern with offset technology by 30 centimeters relative to the whole lamella (as in any laying instructions:

As shown in the figure, we are marking the cut. In fact, we need the right lock to continue laying, and we must shift the mismatch to the right in order to get the correct piece of lamella in terms of indentation from the wall and pattern. The cut piece will go to us as closing our layer or on other stripes to close the layer. We assemble our lamella according to the drawing and continue laying ... I draw your attention to the fact that You can't hit laminate flooring with a hammer! As written in the instructions, close the short lock, and then move the lamella relative to the long lock with that effort. A few efforts on the right and left sides of the lamella and it will snap into place.

How to dock the closing lamella against the wall? I think the diagram is clear. We need to keep the adjacent lock, for this we bring the lamella to the wall (or a piece from the previously cut strip) and turn it over to the right, with the back side. We take into account the indentation from the wall and make markings along the edge of the whole strip. After the cut, it will close perfectly as we marked it. We continue to gain strips according to this principle until we hit a lamella that extends beyond the wall and turns into a long part of the corridor. Here we must shift our lamella so that it adjoins the main layer, but at the same time, one part goes into a long room.

We cut whole lamellas along the wall following the line. Do not worry that you are cutting half of the whole slats, the cuts will go to complete our layer in the direction of laying. And so, lay out a long strip along and close the layer.

Next, we collect the second layer, not forgetting about the offset (30 cm relative to the starting lock of the previous strip). To be sure of the markings and cuts, as well as the preliminary alignment of the thin strip, I scored and cut the strip for further installation. Next, we begin to dock it, as it were, in the opposite direction from the far wall.

All further laying is no different from the previous layers. We customize the drawing and file it to the required geometry of the room. A little later I will add photos with an explanation of how to close the last layer and a general photo of the result. Naturally, the floor will take on a complete look, including installation. I hope my sketches will relieve you of the fear that it is VERY difficult to lay the artist... :) but if you are not sure of your desire and strength, you can always turn to the pros who will successfully and quickly complete this work, for example to us.

Actually, this is what we got in general terms in the final ...

The field team will cope quickly and efficiently. Contact us!

We continue to lay the laminate.

Laminate is very easy to install, locks are inserted and installed in place. So, I want to say one thing. It so happened that I bought a laminate with a pattern. Now, if you look, then in principle look, then the picture flows more or less smoothly.

From one board to another. Putting it together is a little more difficult. But if you also bought a laminate with a pattern, I will tell you how to lay it.

So, we lay the laminate with a pattern. When you open a box of laminate with a pattern, immediately pay attention to the components.

A laminate with a pattern concludes what the difficulty is. They come with the same pattern. The drawing is the same in two boards at once. Here are two boards with the same pattern. Then there are two more boards with the same pattern. Then again there are two boards with the same pattern. So they lie in pairs, all with the same pattern. When we lay laminate, we take two straight lines with the same pattern and see that they converge.

Here we have the finished drawing.

Features of packaging laminate with a pattern

That is, how much we found in the package at once two boards with the same pattern. And then we end up with a longer structure. And it will be more or less beautiful. And since we opened one box, and there are many boxes. Then I can immediately collect 5 pieces of such boards for the entire length. I can easily dock them to their full length. Especially in the upper part. Here I show.

So it turns out, I docked this place and got this picture.

All some remnants lie, there will be a closet, and here, probably, there will be some sort of sofa. And so this is the central passage, here it is necessary to lay a laminate with the same pattern.

So I put them all in piles with the same pattern and when laying, then I use them. First I use one drawing, then another drawing, then a third. This is how it works, in this way. Well, it's certainly not perfect. Well, if no one is looking closely, then the pattern is respected. That's the way.

All rights to the video belong to: Oleg Churilov

How to make a floor that is reliable, beautiful, easy to install and at the same time inexpensive? These seemingly incompatible qualities are combined in a laminate. Therefore, this flooring is used more and more often. However, in order for the floor to serve for a long time, it is simply necessary to know the intricacies of the technology. For example, before laying a laminate, you need to check how even the base is. The maximum allowable deviation is no more than 1-2 mm per meter of surface. Only under this condition will it lie tightly, will not bend and creak. If the differences are greater, the lock may even break or the board may crack.

If the base has irregularities, the dimensions of which exceed the allowable ones, it must be leveled. For cement floors, everything is simple - a leveling screed is poured. The laying of the laminate begins after the solution gains at least 50% strength.

If an old wooden floor serves as a base, it must be removed according to the technology, then a full-fledged cement floor should be made, with all the necessary layers (filling, hydro and thermal insulation, reinforcing belt and screed). It is possible to mount a heating system in this floor, and lay a floor covering on the warm floor. Only in this case it is necessary to use special grades of laminate that tolerate heat well. The cost of such a floor is high, and it takes a lot of time to install it. That's why they don't always do it. If the logs and boards are not damaged, you can level the wooden floor with plywood, and lay the laminate on it.

When leveling a wooden floor, all strongly protruding fragments are scraped off with a planer or with the help of scraping, the cracks are sealed with putty. Sheets of plywood are laid on the prepared old wooden floor (it is used more often, although any sheet material with a flat surface can be laid). They are fixed with screws to the floor: along the perimeter after 15 cm, in the middle in a checkerboard pattern.

The joints of the sheets are displaced - they should not match (see the photo below). So the load is transferred more evenly. One more thing - leave some gaps between the sheets - they should not be fitted close to each other. Wood changes dimensions depending on humidity and temperature. And these gaps will give the necessary freedom so that there are no "humps" and distortions.

Laying plywood on a wooden floor under a laminate is a common way to prepare the subfloor during renovations. If the wood has not been damaged, and the plywood is laid evenly, does not “play” and does not sag, such a base will last for years.

Substrate for laminate

On a flat and clean base, the substrate is first laid. It hides those irregularities of 1-2 mm that are acceptable and makes the floor less “noisy”. It also serves for depreciation and better redistribution of the load.

The substrate is made of several types:

Cork. Made from cork chips. It has good thermal insulation properties, absorbs sounds. Disadvantages: afraid of moisture and does not like heat. Therefore, its scope is premises without floor heating, with normal importance and minimal risk of a “flood”. That is, living rooms. Cork underlay for laminate flooring is used infrequently: expensive. If they put it, then more under the parquet board - for the safety of the flooring.
Cork is the best, but also the most expensive type of substrate. Foil - a little cheaper, and its plus - it is suitable for underfloor heating
Bitumen-cork on a cellulose basis. On a layer of cellulose impregnated with bitumen, small cork fragments are poured. This underlay is slightly cheaper than cork underlayment, but its main advantage is that it can be used to lay over an underfloor heating system.
Made from polyethylene foam. It tolerates high humidity well, conducts heat poorly, is chemically neutral, resistant to bacteria, easy to use (available in the form of rolls), has a low price. Disadvantages: sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, quickly loses its shape, has a short service life, poorly “extinguishes” sounds. Therefore, this substrate is used under a cheap laminate: their service life is comparable.
From polystyrene foam. It has a rather high density, due to which it smooths out irregularities, keeps its shape well, has good heat-insulating properties, and muffles sounds. Disadvantage: cannot be used for laying laminate flooring on underfloor heating. The price is between cork and polyethylene, it is the most acceptable and is used most often. It is produced more often in the form of plates, sometimes in rolls.
Polyurethane foil. This type of substrate can also be used for laying under a laminate on a warm floor. It has the best features of all the above, as well as the best prices. But if you are going to lay an expensive laminate, then these are justified expenses: the life of this type of flooring largely depends on the quality of the substrate.
Expanded polystyrene - average quality and price

How to lay the underlay

The substrate for the laminate is rolled out (lay out) along the wall from which the laying will begin. In length, it should cover the entire floor from wall to wall. The lines of the joints are combined tightly, for convenience they are glued with adhesive tape. Sometimes the panels are fixed with staples from a construction stapler. This is faster, but staples are not very good to use - they can rub against the boards and make an unpleasant sound. The next layer is spread as needed - you don’t need to immediately cover the entire floor: it’s better not to walk on the substrate.

Laying schemes

In which direction to lay the laminate with your own hands? There are no strict rules, but there are recommendations. To make the joints along the boards less visible, the direction of the light should go along the board. It turns out beautifully if you lay the coating at an angle. But this method is more complicated and more waste is obtained. You can also lay it across the world - this is also practiced, and it does not threaten anything but more visual seams.

Laying laminate relative to the window: layout of elements

The main rule that must be observed when laying a laminate is the offset of the seams. The minimum transverse seam should be at a distance of 40 cm from the other. So the strength of the flooring will be greater: the boards will not disperse under load.

The minimum distance between seams in adjacent rows is 40 cm

The layout of the laminate flooring should be designed with this rule in mind. The simplest for independent execution is a shift by half the board. Then every odd row starts with a whole, and every even row starts with a half (or vice versa).

If the length of one element exceeds 1.2 m, then you can shift the second row by 1/3, the third by 2/3 of the length (as in the photo above). It turns out a kind of "ladder". In some types of laminate (expensive), the minimum row offset is much less - maybe 15 cm. This is indicated on the packaging or in the accompanying instructions.

You can lay the laminate with a "ladder", only you need to observe the minimum allowable displacement of the seam. Right - laying pattern with a long board length and a small offset

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How to lay laminate with your own hands: step by step instructions

The laying technology is the same: there are only some features when connecting elements, depending on the locks. The procedure will be like this:

If the geometry of the room is correct, no difficulties. If there are distortions - you will have to cut. Questions may arise when finishing the threshold: the board near the jambs is not cut evenly, but in an arc, while maintaining a gap of 10-15 mm. Why in an arc? So under the door trim of any shape there will be no hole.

Laminate laying methods: two locks - two methods (video instructions)

Laminate laying technology depends on which of the locks on your flooring. They are made in two types - "click" (Click) and "Lock" (Lock). You will not get confused, because the system is written on the packaging of each pack, and pictograms are drawn on many of them explaining the principle of laying.

Hammerless Method - Click Lock

When using click locks, it is more convenient to collect the planks one by one. The system is named so because of the characteristic click that is heard when the spike enters the groove. With such a system, the side locks are first connected, then the longitudinal ones. It happens like this:

How to lay a laminate with a click lock, see the video.

How to lay with a lock "Lock" (Lock)

Here the lock should be inserted from the side and the assembly method is different. You will need a piece of laminate with a spike and a light hammer (rubber mallet). The boards are laid out on the floor, corrected so that they lie exactly one relative to the other. They move it so that the spike is close to the groove, insert a piece of laminate on the other side and tap it with a hammer, achieving a connection.

How to lay down a laminate with the "lock" system

The method is also simple, but requires caution: the hammer can hit too hard and break the lock. Then you have to use another element.

With this method, it is more convenient to lay a laminate, first collecting individual rows, and then connecting them. Schematically, this is shown in the photo below.

So it is more convenient to lay the laminate with your own hands with the "lok" system

See the video for more details on this method. There is no sound row, but everything is clear.

The methods of laying the laminate described above can be made almost airtight, in any case, the amount of water that can get into the interstitial space is greatly reduced. To do this, use a special glue. They coat the spikes of the stacked boards. The composition retains its elasticity for 10 minutes, therefore glue is applied immediately before installation.

The disadvantage of this technology is that the coating becomes almost monolithic. If you need to replace one or more boards, this will not work.

How to cut laminate straight

You can cut laminate boards:

electric jigsaw (most convenient);
hacksaw;
manual circular saw.

To prevent burrs from forming on the front surface when sawing, it should lie with its “face” up. In order for the cut to be even, guides are used - rulers (slats) made of metal or wood. When using a hacksaw, the ruler should not make it possible to “climb” into the desired half.

When cutting across, it is more convenient to use squares. It is pressed against the long side, the second serves as a guide.

How to lay a wide or under the tile laminate?

If you are a lover of ceramics and ceramic tiles, then there is a fast, high-quality and simple solution just for you! When choosing a wide or ceramic-imitating laminate, do not chase cheapness. Wide flooring lamellas must have an ideal geometry. Only in the case of high quality, you can quickly assemble a floor that will last for many years. Maintaining a good flooring will be easy, in other words, look for an option that suits your style and offers the best value for money. And so, we chose a color, style, bought a laminate. Where to start and how to get, suppose this is the result?

We will need an ordinary woodworking tool (a standard set: a saw, a hammer, spacers, a plank or a special slat for laying with a hammer), as well as a little strength, desire and skill. You can also use a jigsaw or a circular saw if available, but remember the golden rule "measure twice, cut once" when cutting. As a rule, people, having started laying on their own for the first time, spoil more than one pack of laminate for the same "knack" ... So, let's start. Initially, lay the substrate. Further, depending on the desired result, we put the first line along the longest wall in the room in the direction of the light (I will give the rules in the pictures below). In the picture, the master lays the laminate, cutting off the first line to align the curves of uneven walls (a room of complex geometry). By assembling butt-to-butt the first line along the wall, you will find out how even it is, and if necessary, make longitudinal cuts for a good fit of the first line of the laminate to the spacers. Speaking of spacers, their thickness must be at least 5 mm! This will be enough for the laminate to "float" from moisture and temperature changes. IMPORTANT! It is necessary to cut the laminate from the back side, turning it face down. Otherwise, there is a high probability of getting ugly chips of the laminated surface along the saw cut edge. Flipping and drinking...

In our case, we are using a portable woodworking table with a circular saw (fine teeth!). I would like to draw your attention to the fact that each next line during laying must be selected with an offset of at least 15 cm (depending on the pattern on the laminate you have chosen). This rule is clearly shown in the pictures. The laminate is laid with large locks up. The laminate is laid in the direction of the light (if there are several windows in the room, see which side has more light). Each subsequent lamella is placed with an offset (we select a pattern for offset, saw off the excess).

I immediately pay attention to the laying pattern (in the picture), 1-2-3-4 laying the first line, then the sawn off part of 4 lamellas goes to the beginning of a new line 4-5-6, etc. Thus, you will save material as much as possible and get an offset to create a reliable screed of the lock joints. When laying the laminate under the tiles, do not forget about the selection of the pattern and the need to file the initial lamella of each new line (to fit the pattern).

We carefully monitor the geometry: all lines must be laid perfectly. Any displacement will destroy the illusion of laid natural tiles. We lay the locks groove in the groove, as shown in the pictures. If necessary (if cracks have formed), the grooves can be driven off with a light blow of a hammer on a special bar or a dense plank. Attention, this method is increasingly not recommended by manufacturers, because. in modern laminate, the system of locks has changed significantly. Most coatings prohibit impacts and close with a forceful push. Read the instructions for the laminate! In no case do not beat the laminate directly, at least get a chip. The impact should be distributed over a wide surface, creating an overall soft push.

In order to avoid displacement during a side impact to lock the locks, it is necessary to ask someone to stand on the side of the laid floor that receives the impact. This will prevent displacement of the laid and finished surface according to the pattern.

It is worth considering the fact that it is best if the laminate ends where the furniture will be in the future. When laying a coating with a pronounced pattern, and even more so under a tile, it is better to hide the elements of violation of the integrity of the geometry where they are least visible (sofa, furniture, armchairs, etc.). This is especially important in small spaces, such as hallways, where a thin cut of tiles along the wall can spoil the whole picture and look more like a construction mistake than a necessary compromise in finishing the canvas. When laying the last slat, make sure that the base line of the wall is parallel to the main floor. This will prevent the last lamella from being cut incorrectly.

If necessary, make cuts according to the existing floor geometry. At the transition point of the laminate into the doorway, the cut must be made around the door jamb so that the overall pattern of the floor is not interrupted. If you are completing the laying of the laminate at this point or if you have tiles or parquet boards lying next, the transition can be done with a threshold. If laying continues in subsequent rooms, then the cut of the last plank in the area of the doorway is made from a single piece of laminated lamella (as in the picture).

It is also worth noting that the jamb from the doorway must be dismantled during installation. When cutting out the lamella for the doorway, pay attention to the closing distance of the lock. The cut must be offset from the lock by the required offset distance when it is closed. Thus, you will get the perfect joint and the minimum required clearance in the places where the door leaf wraps around. When marking, do not be afraid to make any marks with a pencil that will help you make the right cut. The pencil can be easily washed off with a damp cloth.

To close the last lamella, you will need either strong hands and skill, or a special bracket for driving laminate and parquet boards. In any case, do not forget that the blows should be light and smooth (transmitting momentum, not sharp blows). If you are, then read the article by clicking on the link. Actually, everything is so easy, and not simple, but the result is worth it! I was glad to help you in a difficult task!

Sincerely, Meteor
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