Sewerage

How to put laminate on wood floor. How to put a laminate on a wooden floor - video and installation features How to put a laminate on a wooden floor

SvatSv (Kursk)

I'm going to put laminate on the old wooden floor in the nursery, what are the pitfalls and which laminate to choose?

The very process of laying the panels is not so complicated as to deny yourself the pleasure of making a new beautiful floor on your own. But laminate is very demanding on the base, which must be dry, clean, perfectly even and stable. Any fluctuations of the lamellas during further operation will increase the load on the lock, namely, it is the weak point of the flooring. In addition, you need to choose and lay the substrate correctly, do not forget about the damper seam.

Let's start with the second part of the question, everything is detailed there.

And now about the installation process itself.
Laying laminate on a wooden base is always a risk. Over time, the tree loses its mechanical qualities, therefore, before laying laminate on it, you need to carefully check the condition of the boards and the underfloor structure, beams, logs. The slightest problems should be fixed immediately.

Foundation preparation

The preparatory stage begins with the diagnosis of a wooden base. Laminate can be laid if:

No visual changes or damage;
There are no areas through which moisture would show through to the floor;
The base has a sufficient margin of safety, does not bend or creak while walking;
The surface is smooth, without drops, protrusions and knots. Permissible height fluctuations - 2 mm per 2 m2.

If at least one of the points is not true, the subfloor needs repair.

Important! Do not believe the misconception that the substrate is able to compensate for any defects in the base.

Underlayment for laminate flooring laid on a wooden floor

Hydro-vapor barrier materials cannot be laid on a wooden base under a laminate, they interfere with air exchange and condensate harmful to wood accumulates under the floor covering. As it is recommended to use natural cork and substrates based on it. In order to save money, buy polypropylene.

Advice! In cases where the wood floor has been leveled with plywood, two layers of underlay can be applied, one between the subfloor and the plywood and the other between the plywood and the laminate.

The thickness of the layer is chosen, focusing on the dimensions of the panel. A 3 mm underlay is placed under a 9 mm laminate. No fixed attachments to the substrate are needed. The material is laid in a joint, at the edges overlapping the wall, after which the remainder is cut off. Between themselves, the elements of the substrate are connected with solid lines of adhesive tape or dots.

Required element - substrate

Reference. If the floor on the first floor and under it is a wet basement, a plastic film is laid under the substrate with an overlap of 20 cm. It will protect the coating from moisture from the inside. Maybe you need to think about

Features and nuances of laying laminate

Immediately before laying, the laminate is left in the room where it will be laid for at least two days. The temperature in the repaired room should be within 30 ° C, and the humidity should not exceed 70%.

The laminate is mounted without nails, without self-tapping screws and glue, exclusively by the locking method. This type of masonry is called "floating". The floor board is not fixed on the floor, but lies freely on the substrate and when changing the temperature and humidity indicators, it calmly changes dimensions.

Ideally, the seams between the slats should be parallel to the flow of light from the window (this will help to visually hide the gaps between the slats) and perpendicular to the subfloor boards, which will contribute to an even distribution of the load.

Technology of laying laminate on a wooden floor

Laying the laminate begins from the corner farthest from the entrance, from the most prominent place. The first panel is placed in the selected corner, the second is attached to it from the short side, and so on until the end of the room. The latter, most likely, will have to be filed, it is better to do this jigsaw as the saw may leave small nicks. Pegs 1.1.5 cm wide are inserted between the panel and the wall. The trimming of the lamella that remains after laying the row is usually laid as the first element in the next row, if its length is not less than 30 cm.

Important! Between the flooring and walls, doors, pipes and other obstacles, there should be a gap of at least 1 cm, but not more than 2. It is important that all gaps are of the same thickness, wedges are used for this. They can be purchased ready-made or use improvised materials, for example, pieces of drywall.

The second and subsequent rows of lamellas are assembled according to the same principle as the first and assembled to the previous one. During the docking of the locks, the lamellas are lightly knocked out, but they hit with a mallet not on the lock, but directly on the panel through a cut of another lamella.

During docking, the lamellas are lightly knocked out with a mallet

In the last row, as a rule, cutting of the lamellas in width is required, it is performed taking into account the damper joint and the laying is calculated in advance so that the width of the panel in the last row is more than 5 cm. Installation is performed in the same way, by snapping the lock.

If you need to cut holes for pipes, corner niches and any other figure, do it jigsaw according to a pre-prepared template.

When the laminate flooring is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the skirting board and thresholds.

Video: Underlayment and laminate flooring

Manufacturers indicate on the laminate that it is best to lay it on a concrete base. But if you are planning a renovation in a private house, then there are most likely wooden floors. Can laminate flooring be installed on wood floors? Can. How is the laying of laminate on a wooden floor, we will understand in the article.

Wood is a rather whimsical material, and that is why laying a laminate on it is more problematic than on a concrete base. Material manufacturers still do not recommend laying laminate on a wooden floor, so you do the work at your own peril and risk. Of course, nothing terrible will happen, it's just that over time the tree is deformed, which can lead to distortion of the laminate.

The tree can change depending on weather conditions, high humidity causes it to swell, and dryness causes it to dry out. All this can affect the lining.

Before proceeding with the installation, it is still worth making sure that the wooden planks are intact. They should not have cracks or cracks. Planks should be straight without buckling. It will not be superfluous to check for the presence of mold or insects if the tree has not been treated with special means.
The wood should not crumble, check it for rot. If there are any, then it’s not only impossible to lay something on such a floor, but its complete replacement is also required. If you have only a few boards that have deteriorated, you can replace them and the neighboring ones. It is best to lift the entire floor and look at the boards for defects completely. If there are no defects, but the boards are shaking, then they need to be fixed.

Benefits of laminate

Laminate has been in great demand lately, which is not surprising. Its appearance can compete with many more expensive materials. The laminate pattern can imitate any other material, while it will look decent, and not ridiculous, as is the case with PVC panels. A wide range allows you to choose a laminate for any interior.
Laminate is divided into classes, and the higher it is, the better its characteristics. Accordingly, the price will be more expensive. But in general, the material is considered wear-resistant and durable enough.
Laminate flooring is easy to maintain, just vacuum and wipe it down with a damp cloth. Just squeeze it well and use special detergents.
Laminate is made from wood shavings. Therefore, it is a fairly safe material. But, it is treated with special means for protection. And these are the ones to pay attention to.

Unscrupulous manufacturers can save on this, so contact only trusted suppliers. And so the laminate can be laid even in the children's room, it will not harm human health.
When repairing, the budget is often limited and the question may arise: is it possible to lay the laminate yourself? Yes, you can do the work without special training, installation is not difficult and laborious.

The term of operation of the laminate, subject to all conditions of installation and use, reaches 20 years. In the process, it will not lose its appearance if it is properly cared for.

Preparing the floor for installation

Laminate is installed in a locking way. You don't need glue during the process. Although it is sometimes used, but then it will not be possible to replace a separate element, and the quality of such a floor will be inferior.

Laminate is made on the basis of wood, which means that it cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. The only exceptions are waterproof species. Therefore, if you are going to lay it in the kitchen, pay attention to this fact.
Before laying laminate flooring, you need to prepare the floor. How to do it? First, check to see if the floor creaks. If this happens, then the boards can be fixed with self-tapping screws or anchors. Hats should not be higher than the surface of the bar, they must be carefully drowned.

Small cracks or holes can be sealed with sealant or foam. Rotten boards are best removed completely. But if the damage is minimal, you can sand the damage and treat it with an antifungal compound, and then seal the gap with foam.
If the base is uneven and there are high-altitude differences, then they must also be eliminated without fail. You can put wedges, and plywood on top, thus securing the bar in the desired angle.

How to lay laminate on a wooden floor

How to lay a laminate with your own hands on a wooden floor? Before proceeding with the installation, hold the laminate in the open package so that it adapts to the conditions of the room.

Laminate is laid only on the substrate. It depends on it the life of the material. Many manufacturers can even refuse a guarantee, since the instructions for the laminate always indicate the need for a substrate. Why is she needed? The substrate acts as an additional protective layer for the laminate itself. It takes over the function of the base leveler.
The substrate can absorb a certain amount of moisture without letting it through to the planks. The laminate will lie on it evenly and will not subsequently stagger and rub against the base, which significantly increases its service life. In addition, it acts as an additional material for heat and sound insulation.

The substrate is spread butt-to-leaf. There shouldn't be even the slightest overlap. Tape is used to fasten the sheets. The installation of the laminate starts from the wall, attach spacers 1 cm thick to it, so that later it does not swell or bevel.

The first planks are installed with a spike to the wall. The boards are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, so the next row starts with half the board. Planks are attached to each other in two ways: click and lock. With the click system, the board tilts at an angle of 30-45 degrees and is pressed against another board with force. When the lock clicks into place, you will hear a click. You can additionally tap the board with a rubber mallet to consolidate the effect.

The lock system immediately uses a rubber mallet. You just need to hammer one bar to another until it clicks. If there are obstacles in the form of pipes in your way, then simply cut the panel so that the hole is then placed on the pipe. A hole is cut into the board. You need to make it a little wider than the pipe itself, and then lay the rubber gasket. The last panel may be wider than necessary. In this case, it must be cut off. This must be done very carefully.

Sometimes the laminate is laid on the glue. More often this method is used in rooms with high humidity. The process is almost identical to the castle, only at the joints you do not attach the planks to each other, but glue them.

In the process, for better fixation, you can use adhesive tape at the joints. Then you need to wait until the glue is completely dry and you can remove the adhesive tape.

One of the most popular interior flooring materials is laminate. It is valued for its beautiful appearance and fairly simple installation process. Experts recommend laying such flooring on a flat, concrete base, however, there are times when the finish must be done on top of the old plank flooring. How to install laminate flooring on wood floor? What are the features of working with such a basis? All this must be known before work begins. Therefore, in our article we will pay special attention to this topic and consider in detail the process of laying this topcoat.

Diagnostics of the old foundation

On the question of whether the laminate is laid on a wooden floor, it is safe to answer positively. However, it is worth mentioning right away that a base made of natural material requires much more attention than a concrete screed. If you need to carry out such work, carefully examine the finished surface for defects and irregularities.

Diagnostics of the old coating includes the following works:

elimination of large gaps between the boards;
checking the reliability of fixing all elements of the floor;
detection of irregularities and sharp changes in floor level;
dismantling of failed elements and their replacement.

Before laying the laminate on the old wooden floor, you need to prepare the base. Delaminated boards and plywood must be dismantled. Loose elements fasten to the lags using self-tapping screws. Drown protruding nails in wood. Eliminate large irregularities in the base. If the surface level differences do not exceed 1-3 mm per 1.0-1.5 meters, then it is not necessary to level the floors.

If the room where the laminate will be laid is dominated by high humidity, then all elements of the wooden floor should be inspected for the presence of fungus and mold. Affected areas of wood must be cleaned and treated with antiseptic compounds. It will not be superfluous to complete the processing of all wooden structures of the base.

Elimination of small irregularities and defects

If during the examination of the floor, small differences in its level were revealed, then in order to lay the laminate (with your own hands) on a wooden floor, you can use two basic leveling methods. Namely:

Tsiklevka. This method is optimal in cases where the irregularities are not particularly significant, and to level the surface it is enough to remove a small layer of wood (over the entire base or in a separate section of it). For such work, a scraping machine is required.
Leveling the top layer with a planer. A planer is able to remove a much larger layer of wood in comparison with a scraper. For this reason, after each pass, the level of the floor must be checked. Using this method, you can smooth out small areas that protrude strongly above the surface.

If the base is strongly curved and partial grinding is not enough, then before laying the laminate on the wooden floor on your own, you will have to carry out more global work to level the surface.

Raising the floor

If there is a strong slope, grinding the floor will be useless. Most often, in such cases, the reason lies not in the floorboard, but in the failure of the logs themselves. Over time, they can rot or deteriorate from the effects of insects and rodents. In this situation, the floorboard must be completely dismantled and the condition of all lags checked. These works are quite long and laborious, but they should not be neglected. A failed base will not last long, so repairs will still have to be carried out, but it will already be complicated by the dismantling of a new coating.

Failed logs and beams must be replaced with new ones. If they are in a satisfactory condition, then they can be raised to the required level. This is done with wooden spacers. Wooden flooring is laid on them. When the floorboard is completely laid, the subfloor needs to be smoothed using the plank scraping method. After that, you can lay the laminate on the wooden floor.

Leveling with plywood and OSB boards

If the repair or installation of the log was made quite recently, but the floor is characterized by large irregularities, it is more advisable to level it with plywood sheets or OSB boards. These works will require additional costs, but will allow you to lay the laminate on a wooden floor with high quality and additionally insulate the base.

In places where the surface drops below the main level, substrates from boards or pieces of slabs are laid under the plywood. The lining material is fixed on the base across the direction of the flooring elements.

Before installing the boards, it is recommended to cover the entire floor surface with a vapor barrier material. Sheets are laid at a distance of 2-3 mm from the walls, with the rows shifted by half the slab. For such work, sheet products with a thickness of at least 10-12 mm should be used.

To level the base using OSB boards, materials with a thickness of not more than 3 mm are purchased. Thick and massive products will play under the coating and lead to its failure.

Installation of plates is based on screwing them to the base using self-tapping screws or nails of a certain length. The distance between the fasteners is calculated by multiplying the thickness of the plate itself by 2.5. A gap of about 5 mm is left between the plates, which is subsequently filled with mounting foam.

Can I lay laminate flooring on wood floors using leveling compounds?

Recently, more and more often the leveling of surfaces is carried out using self-leveling floors. They allow you to easily smooth out an uneven base and give it smoothness and uniformity. At first glance, it may seem that it is impossible to use such compositions on plank surfaces, but this is not so.

Before laying laminate on a wooden floor, the subfloor can be prepared as follows:

Cover the floor surface with a dense polyethylene film (waterproofing).
Fix the edges of the canvas against the walls. Lay the rolled materials with an overlap of 15-20 cm, glue the seams with waterproof tape.
Install a damper tape around the perimeter of the room. It will play the role of a compensator when changing the volume of the screed.
In places where the floors are below the general level, install metal beacons. They are fixed with cement mortar. The height of the beacon should correspond to the difference in surface height.
Pour the prepared leveling mixture into the deepest place in the floors and level the mixture using a rule. When the solution dries, the entire surface is poured with a thin layer of screed.
The solution must be rolled with a needle roller so that no air bubbles remain at the base of the screed.

When the mixture dries, you can lay the laminate on the wooden floor yourself. How to do it right, we will consider further.

Substrate under the laminate: what to use?

The technology of laying laminated panels involves the use of lining materials that act as a shock-absorbing layer. Today, several varieties are available to us, and all of them are actively used for this purpose. Therefore, before laying laminate on a wooden floor, you need to choose which material you will use.

It could be:

old linoleum;
foamed polyethylene;
cork varieties;
dornit.

If linoleum was used as the old cladding, then after leveling the floor it can be laid in place where it will already act as a lining material. This will reduce repair costs and provide good sound insulation to the new coating.

Geotextile (dornite) is not very often used as a substrate for laminate flooring. This is due to its low heat-insulating and sound-absorbing abilities. However, it is very easy to install and has a low cost, so it is used with limited financial resources.

The cork cloth is the environmentally friendly material which is characterized by the highest indicators of sound insulation and warming. Roll and sheet products are very easy to install, which allows you to quickly lay the laminate on a wooden floor, either by yourself or with someone else's help. Such a substrate reliably protects the panels from damage, but is more expensive than the previous options.

Foamed polyethylene is considered the leader in popularity. It perfectly muffles the noise when walking on the laminate and retains heat inside the coating. The material is sold in rolls, which allows you to quickly roll it out on the surface immediately before laying the laminate with your own hands (on a wooden floor).

The technology of mounting the substrate under the laminate

You should immediately pay attention to the fact that it is highly not recommended to refuse to use the substrate. It compensates for minor irregularities in the base and protects the flooring from damage. If you lay the panels on a hard surface, then be prepared for the fact that the finish will fail prematurely.

Understanding the question of how to independently lay a laminate on a wooden floor, first of all, we will consider the process of installing lining products. It consists of the following works:

The material is laid or rolled (depending on its type) over the entire surface of the floor.
Installation of adjacent strips is carried out end-to-end, and not overlapped.
The joints of the individual elements of the substrate are glued with construction tape.

Now you can start finishing the floor. To carry it out, you will need the following tools:

electric jigsaw;
measuring tool;
wooden pegs;
rubber mallet;
construction pencil.

When the material is purchased and all the tools are at hand, it's time to choose the appropriate installation method and start laying the coating.

Laminate installation methods

At this stage, we figured out that laying laminate on a wooden and uneven floor (as in our case) is possible only after careful preparation of the base. But before starting work, you need to determine how the panels are attached to each other. It could be:

connection with glue;
lock fixation.

The adhesive method allows you to create a reliable, solid flooring. This method is more often used in the kitchen area and other areas where there is a high probability of moisture on the floor. However, adhesive bonding has several drawbacks. These include:

complication of the installation process of the laminate;
inability to disassemble and reassemble the coating;
the need to wait 10 hours after laying the coating;
the impossibility of using glue with underfloor heating systems.

The key connection implies the presence of special locks on the laminate that snap into place when the elements are connected at a certain angle.

This fixation is highly durable and prevents the formation of gaps between the panels. If necessary, the cover can be removed and laid again.

How to properly lay laminate on a wooden floor: installation technology

Laminate installation technology depends on the chosen method of fixing the panels, but there is no significant difference in these processes. We will look at how to lay laminate on a wooden floor with a key connection. Mounting with glue is carried out in the same way. The only difference is that the ends of each element must be coated with the selected composition.

So, the technology for finishing the floor with panels is as follows:

Laying the laminate begins with the installation of the first solid element. It is placed at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the wall. To prevent this gap from moving during the work, wooden spacers are inserted between the panel and the wall. The distance between the wall and the flooring must be left along the perimeter of the entire room. It is necessary so that in the event of a moisture difference, the coating does not swell and break in the locks.
The first row is mounted by joining the elements. If at the end you need to insert a small piece of the product, it is cut off with a jigsaw.
The second row begins to be laid already from half the panel. The elements of the second row are inserted into the locking hole of the panels of the first row and are slightly pressed from the ends of the plank. Thus, the entire coating is laid. Each odd row starts with a whole bar, and the odd row starts with half of it.
If the first row of the laminate consists of only whole strips, then the second one still starts with half the panel. This is necessary so that the joints of the laminate in adjacent rows do not coincide. So the coating will be distinguished by increased strength and beauty. In order to save money, you can use the leftovers from the last planks of the previous rows.

It often happens that for the installation of the last row of the board, you have to saw it along. This work must be done very carefully so that the cut is as even as possible. If you made small mistakes, do not rush to throw out the panel. Small irregularities can be hidden under the floor plinth. After the floor covering is fully assembled, you can proceed with the installation of skirting boards.

Summing up

In this article, we gave an exhaustive answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a wooden floor and how to properly perform such work. Many experts recommend completely dismantling the old boards and pouring a new concrete base, but this leads to additional costs and loss of time. If this option is categorically not suitable, floor finishing can be done using the above recommendations.

In order for the coating to last as long as possible, special attention should be paid not so much to its laying as to the preparation of the base. If you manage to perform these works correctly, then the long-term operation of laminated panels is guaranteed to you.

Before starting work, it is recommended to remove the laminate from the packages and lay it out in the room where it is planned to be installed. This will allow the panels to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, which will help to avoid deformation of the coating after its laying (due to a sharp change in humidity and air temperature). Otherwise, laying laminate flooring on wood floors has no special features and is similar to installation on top of a concrete base.

The choice of floor coverings in the construction market is very diverse, however, laminate remains the favorite of many builders and designers. A laminated board can imitate the most expensive types of wood, but is more affordable. The most reliable installation method is installation on a flat concrete screed. However, subject to a number of rules, this coating is compatible with a wooden floor. Laying laminate flooring on your own is not difficult if you follow the detailed instructions provided in this article.

Wood floor diagnostics

The first step in renovating your flooring is assessing the condition of the old one. It is impossible to lay a laminate on an uneven base, especially if there is a strong difference from one corner of the room to another. The laminate board is installed by floating method, a large angle of inclination will cause the boards to slide to the bottom point. If the old wooden floor is strongly bonded, has wide gaps, and individual boards are rotten, it must be sorted out to the ground, replaced with old beams and strengthened.

To accurately determine the degree of suitability of the floor, it is necessary to carefully measure it with a building level. Measurements should be taken alternately in all corners, in the center of the room and in the middle of the walls, and then compare the results with the table.

Suitability of the floor for laying laminate	Board height difference	The size of the gaps between the boards	Jump from one wall to another	Depth of grooves on the surface of the boards
The floor is even, ready for laying, the thickness of the substrate is minimal	Not more than 2mm/m2	There are practically no gaps	Not more than 0.5 mm	The boards are even, do not fasten, firmly fixed
The floor has irregularities, it is possible to level it by sanding or a denser substrate. The thickness of the laminate is at least 8 mm	Not more than 5 mm/m2	no more than 2 mm	no more than 2 cm	Boards are curved or concave, the depth of recesses and pits is not more than 3 mm
The floor needs to be leveled. Without leveling, the thickness of the laminate must be at least 12 mm, the substrate is made of expanded polystyrene	Not more than 10 mm/m2	Not more than 5 mm	about 2cm	Boards have depressions up to 3-5 mm
The floor must be leveled beforehand (including sheet materials)	More than 10 mm/m2	More than 5 mm	More than 3 cm	The boards creak strongly, have deep depressions of more than 5 mm

Floor leveling methods

Acrylic putty or sealant used when the total difference does not exceed 3-5 mm. The advantage of such a putty is its high plasticity, which means that when the boards are displaced under load, it will not collapse. Before applying it, the boards should be treated with a primer to increase adhesion. You need to putty 1-2 times. Instead of acrylic, you can use a stronger mixture with PVA glue. The putty on the adhesive is applied in the same way, however, after applying it, the surface must be sanded.

Plywood cope with large and medium height differences. This material is often used when leveling floors because of its lightness, hardness and resistance to various loads. On sale there is a wide selection of moisture resistant varieties. Depending on the degree of unevenness, choose either plywood fasteners on the logs, or directly to the floor. Under the laminate, the plywood thickness must be at least 10 mm.

Fastening plywood without using lags:

If the width of the boards does not exceed 20 cm and the floor is without significant irregularities, plywood can be chosen with a thickness of up to 8-10 mm. For a floor with large defects, deflections and a difference of more than 0.5 cm, the thickness should reach 18-20 mm. When there are wide gaps, the joints near the walls must be sealed with mounting foam. For ease of installation, plywood sheets can be cut into 1250x1250 squares with a jigsaw.
The first step in leveling the floor with plywood will be the removal of the old baseboard, nails. Irregularities and protrusions are smoothed out with a planer, and then the floor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris.
Plywood is fixed with screws or self-tapping screws with a gap of 15 cm, leaving small gaps near the walls and between the sheets. Gaps of 0.5-1 cm will be enough to avoid squeaks and swelling due to the expansion of the material.

Mounting plywood on logs:

Logs are installed with a significant curvature of the floor, a height difference from one wall to another, or in a room with high humidity.
The direction of the lag is determined by the direction of the sunlight. They need to be installed perpendicular.
sunlight or parallel to the movement of people in rooms without windows.
In the case when the difference from opposite walls is large (up to 8-10 cm), mini-lags are made - special linings of different thicknesses made of plywood or timber. Where the difference is not strong, a beam of small section is installed, but it is fixed more often, approximately every 30-35 cm, and where it is large, a beam of greater thickness is accordingly attached.
Before starting work, engineering calculations must be made to determine the height of each support element.
Then the logs are installed around the perimeter of the room at a distance of 40-50 cm and transverse bars.
You should not put heat-insulating material like mineral wool between the lags, because it is not durable and over time the floors will have to be sorted out again and the insulation changed. If expanded clay is used for thermal protection, it must be hermetically covered with plastic wrap.
After the crate, plywood sheets are attached with a gap of 0.3-0.4 mm. Installation is completed by sealing the gap with elastic mastic.
The surface is primed and the laminate is glued.

Before starting work with plywood, it must be kept for two days in the room where the work will be carried out so that the material has time to acquire the necessary moisture characteristics.

Wet screed suitable for solid wood floors with a maximum unevenness of 1 cm. It cannot be used for larger distortions. For maximum strength and elasticity of the screed, special dry mixes with plasticizers and fillers for a wooden floor are selected. Alignment begins with the imposition of a reinforcing mesh, followed by a primer floor. The screed is a layer of no more than 1 centimeter.

For a wooden floor, constant ventilation is important to avoid rot. Therefore, often in the corner of the room a channel with a diameter of up to 50 mm was drilled through the board. Such channels must not be covered during the renovation and repair of the flooring.

How to choose a laminate

An important step is the choice of laminate

Quality and cost-effectiveness have made laminate such a popular flooring. Its characteristics include strength, moisture resistance, ease of installation and maintenance.

A solid laminate is similar in properties to natural wood: the same texture, pattern, shade. Before choosing a laminated board for certain rooms, the quality of the top layer and the required thickness are evaluated.

The wear resistance of a laminate is determined by the quality of the outer coating, which is indicated in the classes. Usually on the market there are classes 31, 32, 33, 34. The first two options are universal for any residential premises. A higher class is set if there is a heavy load on the floor, for example, in shopping centers, restaurants, hotels, etc. The service life of the coating also depends on the class. With proper care, class 31 laminate can last up to 12 years, and the most durable class 34 can last up to 25 years.

The thickness of the laminate is 5, 8, 10 and 12 mm and the higher it is, the stronger the coating. Sometimes a large coating thickness is used to eliminate irregularities. However, it is more correct and more reliable to pre-level the floor and use boards of medium thickness.

Laminate for the kitchen use moisture resistant so that it does not deteriorate from frequent cleaning. A textured surface will be preferable, because it does not slip and makes stains or stains less noticeable. Due to the high load in this room, class 33 is the most optimal.
For bathrooms produce a waterproof laminate consisting of PVC boards with a rubber seal. Such boards do not let water through, do not deform and are similar in properties to the usual ceramic tiles. Laminate is warmer than ceramic and can be embossed to prevent slipping on wet floors.
When replacing flooring in a residential area the main decisive factor is color, design and soundproofing properties. Although the board is sold with a special rubber layer glued to the decorative surface, you still need to additionally install a separate substrate for more reliable sound insulation. For living rooms, a class 31 or 32 laminate will suffice.
Hallway- this is a room with high traffic and a significant load, so 33 or 34 coverage class will be chosen for it. The board must be moisture resistant so that frequent cleaning from dust and dirt does not disturb the decorative layer.

It is better to buy a laminate from one manufacturer, because sometimes the thickness may differ from one company to another. Even a difference of a few millimeters can complicate installation.

Types of substrates

The underlayment is a layer of insulating material that spreads between the subfloor and the decorative floor. It protects the flooring from friction, deformation, as well as from moisture and heat loss. The underlay smooths out floor irregularities up to 0.5 cm.

Choosing a substrate is not an easy task due to the wide variety of options on the construction market. In principle, they are all suitable for laying on a wooden floor and differ in price, service life, physical characteristics.

Cork backing made from pressed crumbs of oak bark - an environmentally friendly material. Sometimes bitumen or rubber is added to the composition. Such a substrate is durable, long-lasting, has good thermal and sound insulation properties. Suitable for children's bedrooms. Among the disadvantages: high cost, poor resistance to moisture.
another eco-friendly material with a density that allows you to hide the unevenness of the subfloor. It has increased thermal insulation, which is a big plus for the northern regions. Easy to install, but not suitable for damp areas due to the risk of mold.
Extruded polystyrene- synthetic moisture-resistant material that is not subject to deformation and decay. Due to its high thermal insulation properties, it can be installed in an unheated room. The exact geometric shape simplifies installation, and the low price makes it affordable. However, the material does not have high leveling properties.
Polyethylene backing light, moisture resistant and cheap, but wears out quickly from mechanical damage. It needs to be changed 4-5 years after installation.
Foil isolon consists of two layers: foil and polystyrene. Suitable for wet areas like bathrooms and kitchens. The material is durable, but it should be borne in mind that it sags over time, so the optimal thickness should be about 5 mm.
Integrated underlays. Some types of laminate are sold already with a substrate.

The thickness of the substrate should not exceed 2 mm, because due to the uneven load on the laminated boards, the coating will deform and the locks will become unusable.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The calculation of the amount of materials must begin with the installation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The main problem is that the total area often does not correspond to the actual area. If there is a room 3 meters wide and 5 meters long, the total area is easy to calculate by multiplying one value by another. However, for the actual area, all ledges, doorways, thresholds, niches must be taken into account. Therefore, the best way to calculate the area is to take measurements meter by meter.

At the second stage, it is worth making a detailed drawing of the room, taking into account all the protrusions. A plan diagram will help you identify difficult spots and possible additional material costs. At this stage, it is good to determine the method of laying the laminate. The simplest and most economical laying methods are parallel and perpendicular, but it is worth remembering a material reserve of 10-15%. With a diagonal laying pattern, the margin reaches 15-20%.

There are more complex laying methods, for example, in the manner of a herringbone parquet. These methods are the most difficult and expensive, up to 30% of additional materials are needed. Due to the difficulties in installation, it is better to leave such work to professional craftsmen.

The calculation of the amount of laminate is done on the basis of information on the label, which indicates the area covered by the boards of one pack. But this figure is valid only for the simplest installation scheme, without taking into account the characteristics of the room. For more accurate calculations, it is necessary to add the percentage of waste to the actual area of \u200b\u200bthe room, and thendivided by the area indicated on the package. The resulting number is rounded up.

The number of screws and self-tapping screws is calculated by the number of logs and plywood. Let's say 10 lags are installed on the floor, on which 20 boards are laid. Multiplying these numbers, we get the number of fasteners. Additional margin should be 10-20%. Plywood needs to be fastened every 15 cm, so the number of screws is easy to calculate by dividing the length and width of the room by 15, and then multiplying by the total number of sheets.

Installation tools

Installing laminate flooring is not difficult to do on your own. You don't need to buy complex and expensive tools for it. The only thing worth spending money on is a good jigsaw. With any layout scheme, the last laminate boards in a row will have to be filed.

tape measure 3 to 5 meters long
soft construction pencil for precise marking
square up to 30 cm
jigsaw or handy saw
hammer or kiyak

Special tools for laminate flooring are necessary so that the locks and decorative coating are not damaged during work:

metal brace or fitter
wedges
doboynik (or bar)
set of flat milling drills

Laminate brace- This is a thin plate with bends at the ends at an angle of ninety degrees. It helps when laying laminate boards near the wall, evenly distributes the load when pressed and does not deform the edges. The wide thin part of the bracket is placed under the board, and then tapped with a hammer on the opposite end.

Due to the fact that the laminate is a hygroscopic material that can expand, special gaps of 10 mm must be left along the walls. These temperature gaps are formed by wedges.

The plastic material of the finisher or bar softens the impact force of the hammer and helps to avoid the formation of chips on the decorative part. A set of drills is needed for large diameter holes for the pipeline and radiator.

Additional tools

Additional tools may also be required to quickly install laminate flooring. The cutting machine and square help to quickly and reliably fit the board to corners and niches. For complex patterns, stencils are used.

Substrate laying steps

The underlayment process is simple. It does not require any special equipment to be purchased.

Minimum set of tools:

roulette
scotch
stationery knife
pencil

As with steel materials, the sheets of the substrate must be left indoors for a day to accept the temperature.

Further stages of work:

clean the floor from dust
lay the sheets of the substrate on the floor with the smooth side up, overlapping in a checkerboard pattern to prevent coincidence of the joints of the insulation and the floor covering
joints are sealed with adhesive tape
the protruding edges of the substrate are cut off
start laying laminate flooring

If not a sheet substrate was chosen, but a roll one, a transverse or longitudinal laying method is selected. When the underlay is placed across the laying of the laminate, it is installed immediately over the entire floor. With longitudinal laying, the material is laid in strips and a layer of laminate is immediately installed on top.

Before laying the underlay on the wooden floor, it is not necessary to lay waterproofing.

Laying methods

Before choosing a method for laying a laminate, you need to familiarize yourself with the existing fastening systems.

Adhesive fastening system resembles the fixing of a parquet board using the tongue-and-groove method. After applying glue to the edges of the lamella, the boards are firmly pressed against each other. This method is used to increase the strength of joints and seams in very wet rooms. Gluing protects the coating from environmental influences. However, fixing with the adhesive method is very time-consuming work and over time the adhesive loses its properties, which reduces the life of the coating and the impossibility of re-installation.
Locking system "Lok" installed on the ends of the laminate board. The figured spike is fastened by driving an already laid board into the groove. Sometimes the spikes are pre-glued. This method is most convenient for horizontal laminate laying. Installation begins in adjacent rows, and then proceed to the end.
"Click" locking system the most common because of the ease and ease of installation. Fastening occurs as follows: the spike of one row is inserted at an angle of 30 degrees into the groove of the previous row, and then pressed against the floor until a characteristic click. Then the laminated board is slightly knocked out for a stronger fixation.

Laying schemes

The most common way of laying laminate flooring is similar to laying parquet: the boards are laid in the direction of the window light. However, the design or construction of the room allows for a different arrangement of boards.

Laminate can be installed in one of the following ways:

parallel to the direction of the sun
perpendicular to the direction of the sun
at different angle

If you want to visually change the width, height or length of the room by adjusting the flow of natural light, various laying patterns are selected: classic, diagonal or checkerboard. Regardless of the scheme, laminate boards are mounted with a shift of each subsequent row by 20-25 cm relative to the previous one. This gives the coating a reliable strength.

1 Classic scheme laying is the simplest and most affordable for self-updating a wooden floor. Installation starts from the wall closest to the solar stream. Boards are laid out parallel to natural light. The first part of each subsequent row will be the cut off part of the previous one. Segments are used for flooring near radiators and doorways. For this installation method, you need to buy laminate boards with a length of at least 30 cm. Waste with the classic scheme is minimal, no more than 5%.

2 Chess scheme the most reliable, but the material overrun increases to 15%. The pattern of the laminate floor is made by mixing each next row strictly at a certain distance relative to the previous one and resembles a checkerboard pattern or brickwork. Do not use this scheme with a colored decorative layer. It will look neater with a plain canvas.

3 Diagonal pattern styling is used to visually expand a small room. The consumption of material for a square-shaped room is much less than for a narrow one. On average, the segments are about 15%. The installation is similar to the classic scheme, however, the boards are installed at an angle of forty-five degrees with respect to the wall with the window.

Laying sequence

After leveling the floor, carrying out all the preparatory work and laying the substrate, the further actions of the master should be as follows:

For longitudinal and transverse mounting

installation of the first row of boards begins at the wall opposite the exit
wedges are installed around the perimeter to separate the flooring from the walls
the first panel is placed close to the gap made by the wedge
the second board is attached in the manner recommended by the manufacturer and tapped with a hammer through the bar so as not to injure the locks. Installation will be easier if the locks on the boards are fastened with the Click system
in this way the first row of laminate flooring is assembled
for the first board of the second row, sawing across the laminate board
starting the rows alternately: either from halves or from solid boards, creating a stronger grip. So the load on the floor is distributed evenly
when the first two rows are assembled, it is necessary to dock them with each other. To do this, we raise the second line at a certain angle and connect the groove with the spike until a characteristic click
lay rows to the extreme
to assemble the last row, you need to measure the width of each board separately and make appropriate notes on the back side. Careful measurement of each board will help to avoid problems due to the possible unevenness of the walls. Be sure to take into account the gap between the wall. The laminate is cut along the drawn line.
to fit the extreme row of panels, it is worth using a clamp-clamp. For the sake of economy, some craftsmen refuse to buy this tool and use a nail puller.
after completing the assembly of all rows, the selections along the walls are removed, and the slots are closed with a plinth or a decorative threshold

For diagonal mounting

diagonal mounting is mounting at any angle relative to the walls. You can start the installation in two ways: either from the central point of the room to the corners, or from the corner near the window to the opposite corner of the wall with the front door
to accurately align the direction of the laminated board, you can pull a dense nylon thread onto the screws from opposite corners of the room
the main difficulty with diagonal installation is the correct cut of the last boards in a row. It must be made under a certain bevel in order to precisely dock with the walls and the baseboard. After installing the penultimate panel, the remaining distance to the wall is measured from the two end corners of the board. The segments of the resulting length are applied with a construction pencil to the back of the laminate, and then the points are connected. On the inside, trimming is done with an electric jigsaw or saw
protrusions and niches are also a difficult moment with this type of installation. They are found in the form of decorative elements of the room or with a continuous flooring of boards in several rooms of the apartment at the same time. Laying panels in such places requires careful calculations and accuracy.
Laminate boards are cut exactly to the shape of the protrusions and laying should begin right next to them
the gaps between the flooring and the doorway are usually closed with a panel, which is two times thinner than the laminate, respectively, and the gap should be less

Laying laminate around pipes and other communications

During the installation of laminate flooring in many rooms there are problematic places, such as pipes or radiators set too low. In this case, the board must be sawn to the desired length, and drilled so that the hole is larger in diameter than the diameter of the pipe. Then the board is sawn across in the place of the sawn circle. Most of it is fixed with a lock to the previous panel, and the smaller one is led behind the pipe and fixed with glue. They also come with radiators, the sawn off pieces are placed under them and glued.

The door frame can be designed in different ways. You can simply saw the last boards in the row to match the distance to the door, and then close the joint with a small plank. But more often a different method is used. The base of the door frame is sawn to the thickness of the laminate and the plate is pulled close under the jamb beam.

The width of the temperature gap near the front door should be no more than 5 mm.

Optimum gap width between wall and laminate

First of all, it is worth describing in detail what this gap is for. The temperature gap is more correctly called compensation, it is necessary for the free movement of laminated boards when they decrease or increase due to changes in temperature or humidity in the room. If it is not observed, then the extreme panels installed close to the walls will begin to deform from expansion.

To prevent the board from deforming during use, it is necessary to carry out climatic adaptation of the floor covering. To do this, the purchased boards are taken out of the package and laid out in the center of the room. The material gets used to the temperature conditions of the room. It is important to lay out the laminate in the center, and not against the walls, so that it does not absorb their moisture. Acclimatization should last several days.

For standard rooms with normal temperature and humidity, a gap of 7-9 mm is enough, but for long and narrow rooms it should be increased. In particularly humid rooms, the gap width can reach up to 15 mm. To form them, you can buy special wedges or make them from the remnants of plywood or timber.

The plinth is attached not to the floor, but to the wall with glue. Its width must be at least 5 mm larger than the width of the gap. The fact is that if the laminate was installed without acclimatization, the boards can move and the gap between the coating and the plinth will become visible. There have been cases when, due to insufficient leveling of the subfloor, the laminate rolled into one corner and a gap formed at the opposite wall. Between boards and convex corners or niches, the gap can be masked with sealant.

Selection and installation of skirting boards

In addition to the practical benefits of the floor border in the form of protecting walls from dirt and masking the expansion gap, the plinth plays an important aesthetic role. It can change the geometry of the room and give a neat finished look. Skirting boards of various structures and colors are sold on the construction market, and in order not to get lost in them, you should pay attention to several basic characteristics: color, thickness and material compatibility.

The closest to the laminate in terms of composition of materials and texture is the plinth made of laminated MDF. The same dense films are applied to the laminated board and the plinth, and it is very easy to choose a border in the color of the flooring.

The correct selection of the color of the plinth can either visually expand the space, or reduce it and emphasize all the shortcomings of the repair. Plinth in the same tone with the floor makes the room wider. If you choose a color to match the color of the walls, the ceiling will seem noticeably higher. Sometimes designers advise using floor borders in contrasting shades to emphasize expressiveness. In order not to waste time on careful selection of the color of the plinth, you can buy wooden or veneered and repaint.

Under the unusual colors of the laminate, it is difficult to choose the right skirting board. Therefore, a plastic profile with a suitable texture would be a universal option.

The skirting board is installed in two ways. At the first, the plates are fastened together with a bayonet-groove system, and then on the wall with brackets and nails, or on glue. Due to the constant sliding of laminate boards under the influence of different temperatures, fixing the skirting board directly to the floor covering is impossible. Another problem arises, often the walls are not quite even, and in order for the profile to fit snugly against them, you should choose a plinth with a rubber backing along the entire length of the whip. Rubber additionally protect the coating from moisture and protect it from mold and decay.

The stages, as well as installation methods, depend on the specific type of skirting board model. The plastic profile consists of a fixing strip and a decorative panel. First, the base is adjusted to the dimensions and fastened with dowels or glue. The decorative part is installed with additional docking elements.

Aluminum multi-level thresholds

Between two types of laminate. Joints between several types of laminate appear when boards of different fastening systems are used, the floor area is too large, and the surface needs an additional expansion joint or protrusions or steps are formed with material. To hide the joints, decorative moldings are used. They keep the gap, while covering it from dust and dirt. Moldings come in different types and solve several problems. Straight lines mask joints at the same level, leveling boards are designed for height differences up to 2-3 mm, multi-level planks eliminate differences up to 2 cm, and corner planks connect laminate boards arranged crosswise.

Between laminate and parquet/linoleum the gap is closed with a sill. Depending on the level of floor coverings, the sills are single-level or multi-level. Sometimes the joint with linoleum is filled with glue.

Flexible PVC profile in the interior

Different floor coverings are used in design, for example, for effective zoning of large rooms. In this case, it is necessary not only to choose the method of joint design, but also the features of the installation. In many apartments, you can find a combination of ceramic tiles and laminate, when the board is installed in the hallway, and the tiles are in the kitchen.

At the first stage, you need to find out the thickness of the coating, draw up a template for further installation and outline the junction. The next question is which of the materials should be put first. When it comes to tile and laminate, the tile should be installed first. It has standard parameters and thickness, while the final thickness of the laminate depends on the substrate and can vary by several millimeters under load.

It is not difficult to install the tile directly along the intended connection line with the laminate. The gap between the surfaces must be at least 5 mm. The laminate is easily adjusted to the joint due to the simple processing. Then one of the nut options is installed at the joint:

flexible PVC profile is suitable for multi-level joints and even joints. Has a decorative part and is customized in color
an aluminum sill is a good option if two floor coverings meet under a doorway. Such a threshold can hide a height difference of several millimeters. According to the method of fastening, they are self-adhesive, for self-tapping screws and with hidden fasteners
a box threshold is a large threshold, up to 3 cm high. According to popular belief, it can protect against drafts and stop the flow of water in case of a leak in the bathroom
however, in practice, the box threshold does not protect against anything, it causes inconvenience when washing floors. Many builders recommend leaving a gap of at least 2 cm between the door and the threshold.
the profile from the array is very beautiful, but is considered the most expensive. Attached with glue
cork compensator closes the temperature joint without forming significant protrusions. However, such material does not protect the gap from dirt and dust.

During repair, the surface must be thoroughly vacuumed.

On the one hand, the laminate is an affordable coating that is easy to install thanks to a convenient locking system. However, problems sometimes arise with it, because the board is susceptible to uneven subfloors. For proper installation, you must follow all the instructions exactly, but even in this case, sometimes even a new floor can begin to creak. Sometimes it is difficult to determine the exact cause of gender problems.

uneven base

May be the cause of creaking when depressions form under the laminate board. At this point, the board begins to sag, and when stepped on under pressure, bend. If the creak is heard only under a few boards, they must be carefully disassembled, find a notch, cover it with mortar or put a layer of cardboard, then put it back together.

When the problem is global, the entire surface creaks, it is necessary to completely sort out the floor. For ease of reassembly, the panels should be numbered. The base needs to be leveled and the substrate replaced.

thick backing

Often installed when they want to level the surface, but this approach is wrong. A soft and thick underlay causes the boards to sag a lot over uneven flooring, and under load, such a board can even crack. The optimum thickness of the substrate should not exceed 3 mm.

Need to sort out the floor and replace it. If this is not possible, it remains only to get used to unpleasant sounds and not to allow this mistake during the subsequent replacement of the coating.

small gap

Between the laminate and the walls, it not only impedes the natural movement of the boards, but also creates high pressure on the fastening mechanisms. Because of this, a creak occurs. Fixing this problem is relatively easy. It is enough to take out the boards around the perimeter of the room and cut them along so that the gap is at least 5 mm.

Variable Humidity

It strongly affects the condition of the laminate floor, it begins to creak over the entire surface. It's best to wait until the season changes. If the laminate was installed in the cold season, it is worth waiting for warmer weather to find out if the squeaks will disappear. If the problem is inconstant humidity, it will soon resolve itself.

Sand and dust

A common cause of a strong squeak. Foreign particles are not only a source of unpleasant noise, but also damage to the locks of laminate boards. Particles entering the locks, due to friction, begin to deform them little by little. To avoid this, when repairing, it is worth carefully vacuuming all the debris with a vacuum cleaner, and it is advisable to cut the boards in a separate room.

The problem is much more serious if the dust did not arise as a result of replacing the flooring, but due to shedding of the screed. To avoid destruction, the surface of the screed must be carefully primed. To clean the floor of dust, it will have to be completely sorted out and then vacuumed. The outdated screed should be re-primed and a new substrate applied.

Technology of laying laminate on wooden floors

The ease of laying the material allows you to install lamellas on almost any base, including wood. In order to perform the installation with the highest quality, it is very important to know the basics of the technology, which reveals the secret of how to put your own hands on quickly and correctly.

Benefits of installing laminate flooring on wood flooring

The answer to the question of whether it is possible to, most often depends on the indicators of the strength of the base. Most consumers who prefer a laminate floor finish are skeptical about the possibility of installation and are thinking about dismantling the wood flooring.

Of course, the removal of a wooden base takes a lot of time, moreover, this work is not only laborious, but also dirty. However, it should be remembered that in some cases dismantling cannot be avoided. So, laying lamellas on wooden floors that rot or are affected by fungi is unacceptable. Covering the damaged surface will not be able to stop the rotting process of the wood, and after a while the laminate will also be affected by rotting.

An alternative to expensive dismantling work can be a local replacement of the areas most affected by decay, followed by the use of waterproofing materials. In this case, it is advisable to use moisture-resistant plywood sheets as a substrate.

Preparing wood floors for laminate flooring

The wooden base must be correctly visually assessed, which will make it possible to develop a scheme for its high-quality preparation for the installation of lamellas.

Condition assessment

Laminated panels can be laid on wood floors only after the entire complex of measures for high-quality surface preparation has been carried out. Wood is a good base for laminate flooring, but it must be in a suitable condition for the finishing work to be carried out.

Often, before installing the laminate, it is necessary to repair the wooden base. The most common defects are floor creaking as a result of drying out and surface deformation. In addition, repair work may be required, if necessary, to reinforce the loose wooden floorboards of the base. Sometimes you have to use additional fasteners. You can identify the main irregularities using the building level. This method will allow you to correctly assess the amount of measures to level the base.

Alignment technology

Minor irregularities in depth can be eliminated with a planer or grinder. Significantly protruding and strongly loosened floorboards should be strengthened with self-tapping screws, but not with nails, which will prevent the process of loosening and squeaking of the base. More significant differences are eliminated with the help of sheet plywood. It should be remembered that differences in height of one centimeter for every three meters of area are almost imperceptible.

For local or complete replacement of a wooden coating, only high-quality and dry wood should be used, which will help insure the surface from deformation and distortion. It is advisable to cover the wooden base with sheet plywood or chipboard. If the surface is relatively flat, it is acceptable to cover with a standard, but thick and sufficiently strong substrate.

Repair work

Repair of a wooden base is necessary if it has significant damage or is already too old and dilapidated. The wood selected to replace the removed floorboards should be kept indoors for several days.

Differences in height of more than five millimeters are eliminated with the help of additional plywood linings, the use of which can replace the laborious work of arranging a concrete screed. A gap of one centimeter should be maintained between the sheets of the substrate.

Wood preparationla to laying laminate (video)

The most costly are repair work, involving the dismantling of all floorboards with a complete or partial replacement of the log.

Mounting Features

The quality and duration of operation of the laminate floor finish will ultimately depend on how correctly the substrate material and its thickness are selected.

Substrate selection

Typical problems that accompany the use of a low-quality substrate are the appearance of divergent seams, breakage of lock joints, the appearance of bumps and “walking” laminated planks.

There are several types that are used when laying coatings on wooden floors.

bituminous substrate is a moisture resistant base. This is the best option for an insufficiently even base in rooms with high humidity levels.
represents the most expensive option of material and possesses high operational qualities. It is characterized by resistance to deformation changes, fungal and mold lesions.
Polyurethane foam underlay It is presented in several versions, differing in thickness and density. This is the most budget option. It is recommended to purchase a thicker substrate with increased rigidity or to lay a double layer of material.

Using a backing

A high-quality laminated substrate should be purchased with a slight excess in quantity or volume. This rule is due to an increase in material consumption as a result of the need to trim the substrate due to the configuration features of the room being finished.

It is very important to remember the main rule: for a better base, you can use a less expensive substrate.

Installation of laminate on a wooden base

Currently, two methods are most in demand, in accordance with which the lamellas are located on the floor surface.

Direct laying assumes the location of the lamellas in a direction parallel to the light falling from the window or perpendicular to the window opening. This option helps to level the joints, but may require a five percent increase in the consumption of laminated planks.
Diagonal styling involves the arrangement of lamellas with maintaining an angle to the wall of thirty-five degrees. Material consumption can increase by 15%. This option helps to visually enlarge the space and is more suitable for small rooms.

Laminates with "Click" system

The newest and easiest in terms of installation version of the locking system. Laying is carried out starting from the far corner with the installation of spacer wedges in increments of one centimeter. The planks are joined by attaching the end of the second element at an angle of twenty-five degrees to the first, then the panels must be snapped in by slightly pressing on the element to be attached.

Laminates with "Lock" system

Laying should begin from the corner farthest from the doorway. Laminate planks are joined in a horizontal direction with the alignment of the grooves, which can be slightly knocked out with a special rubber mallet. Knocking out the lamellas should be done carefully, but until complete fixation is obtained.

Glued laminates

Glued laminates have recently largely lost their former popularity. The installation process of such a finishing material for floors is the most time-consuming, due to the need to process the end parts of the planks with an adhesive composition, followed by the connection of all elements to each other. Poor processing of the end parts makes the connection less durable and unstable to moisture. Dismantling the coating will lead to the complete destruction of all elements, which will make them unsuitable for reuse.

Laying laminate on a wooden floor (video)

Even laminate flooring of very high quality and laid in accordance with all the rules will not last long if the requirements for operation and maintenance are not followed. It is very important not only to observe the regime of humidity and temperature in the room, but also to protect the laminate from traumatic factors, as well as to carry out timely and proper cleaning of such flooring.