Pumps

Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine. Do-it-yourself upholstery of the car interior Rigid upholstery for the door

The podium is a round bulge under the speaker, it should be a continuation of the pocket.

I drew it on a piece of paper, cut it out, attached it - something is missing, an unfinished look. He introduced himself as a car interior designer and decided to radically redo the door trim, so that as in foreign cars - leather, and even with folds. Drawn, cut, attached.

It seems to look okay. Let's get started.

What do we need? The skin of a young leatherette, which necessarily stretches well, the fabric is beautiful - I chose blue fluffy to match the color of the car, soft material such as foam, glue, Macroflex (or any similar material), patience. If we can buy something later.

Since the shape of the door panel is slightly rounded at the top, the old panel does not fit, it is necessary to cut out a new base - from hardboard. And you will still need to file the plastic lining. As a soft material for fabric and leatherette, I took isolon, which was left over from soundproofing. One large piece was cut out along the entire contour of the panel and two pieces in the form of decorative overlays. I decided to simply sew these overlays to the fabric base, placing isolon. In what sequence of what and how to attach, do not ask, I can’t explain on my fingers, but I didn’t take pictures of this process. The stitched sheathing with a thin layer of glue, so that it does not soak the fabric through, is glued on top of the isolon, the isolon is already glued to the hardboard. After a lot of tinkering, this is what I came up with:

I wrapped and glued the edges of the fabric, and then went through it with a stapler for reliability.

The base is ready, now you need to glue the podium itself and the top lining.

Since there will be two podiums with pockets, and only one goes as standard, I began to look for a second pocket for the second door. But I didn’t find my own, but I found pockets from 41 Muscovites. You don't even need to cut them, just screw them on and that's it.

The frame of the podium was cut out of 10mm plywood. I made a lot of holes to make it easier. According to the correct one, the installation angles of the speakers need to be selected long and hard, experimentally. But I was not going to make a prize installation, and I intended to "steer" the scene in the future with the help of tweeters, which is quite acceptable. Therefore, the shape and angle of inclination were chosen by eye.

The frame was fastened with PVA and, to be sure, with screws. Now it remains to fill the frame with foam. By itself, the hardened foam is soft and easily crushed, so I used the wet foam technology - when applying the foam, I dripped a little water into it and mixed it with a spatula and stuffed it in places with my fingers. The latter should be done only in latex gloves, the foam is very poorly rubbed off, especially frozen - only together with the skin.

With this foam technology, it took two large cylinders - one liter, and that might not be enough. The frozen foam, especially where it turned out to be loose, is easily cut, and where it is very dense, it is difficult. Therefore, I turned it with a coarse file.

After processing, voids appeared in the foam. You have to spat. I used fiberglass putty. Since it dries quickly, it is necessary to putty in small portions. It took one 250g jar of two-component putty.

Since it didn’t work out perfectly to putty, and it wasn’t necessary, more putty was not needed, but it was possible to continue. To make the surface of the podium at least a little soft, I glued everything with a cloth from a coat. It perfectly stretches and repeats the shape of the podium, while hiding the shortcomings of puttying.

This intermediate result just pleased me. But then the most difficult thing was to sheathe the podium with dermantine. First, I cut out a pattern from a rag, then transferred it to dermantin and began to baste. Here I almost lost my temper and sent the whole idea to X ... Therefore, there is only one photo of this process.

In the end, with my mother's help and support, I sewed it and it remained to put it on the podium. Leatherette easily stretches diagonally and across its fabric base - this must be taken into account. I glued the edges of the dermantine and nailed it with a stapler.

There are no folds on the surface, only one could not be avoided inside the pocket, but it is not visible from the outside.

In a new car, at first everything is so, however, during operation, the colors of the upholstery material begin to lose their brightness, rub off and become covered with stains that can no longer be cleaned. This problem is especially acute for light-colored interiors, when, after several years of operation, do-it-yourself upholstery of the car interior is simply necessary.

Of course, you can solve the issue by contacting a service where professionals will completely change the upholstery of the seats and the interior, but many can do the upholstery of the car’s interior with their own hands, so you will save a significant amount of money and be able to give the car elegance to your personal taste.

Step 1: choose the material

Everyone agrees that leather upholstery is the perfect solution for any vehicle, but this pleasure is not affordable for everyone, because it is not cheap.

However, today there are other upholstery materials that have earned popularity among car owners for their qualities:

Carpet is the cheapest and most easily accessible of materials; a decorative pile coating is usually applied on top of its non-woven base. Its main advantage is a completely simple installation process and a huge selection of colors.
Alcantara - has a base of fine-fiber threads, the material is made using the technologies of the chemical and textile industries. Alcantara is a material with good strength and durability characteristics, it is distinguished by softness, a silky surface and a dirt-resistant coating.
Leatherette is a cheap and attractive material, which, unfortunately, has an impressive list of drawbacks. Its main disadvantages include an unpleasant odor that lingers in the cabin for a long time, increased elasticity characteristics, low resistance to mechanical impacts, as well as the ability to absorb odors, sometimes quite unpleasant.

When purchasing material for a future do-it-yourself upholstery of a car interior, be sure to look at the quality of the goods you want to sell, you should check the uniformity of the structures of any material. If you decide to opt for Alcantara, remember that the direction of the fibers can be crucial when cutting, otherwise it will turn out that on the same seat all the details will differ in shades.

Step 2: Prepare the Tools

Since the process of car upholstery with any material, be it leatherette, carpet, velor or leather, is carried out according to a certain algorithm, it requires tools, sometimes they even need to be bought on purpose. So, you will need: a sewing machine (you need it if you plan to replace the seat trim), soundproofing materials (at your request), a set of keys. And also a couple of tubes of glue, a hair dryer, a set of screwdrivers, scissors for working with linoleum.

Step 3: Getting Started

It must be remembered that depending on the model of the car, the sequence for replacing the interior upholstery may vary slightly. However, in general terms, it is the same for all:

First, all fasteners and all fittings, such as visors, handles and decorative elements, are removed.
In the car, the electrical wiring is disconnected, the connectors are removed, the decorating elements are unfastened and the old upholstery is removed.
When dismantling is completed, the surfaces are cleaned of all contaminants
All parts made of metal and plastic are degreased
The future upholstery is being cut, for which the previous parts are applied to a sheet of cardboard, then it should be cut. It is advisable to transfer finished cardboard patterns to the prepared material only when you check that you have done everything correctly.
When the details of the new upholstery are ready, they should be installed on the surface, having previously thoroughly smeared them with a layer of glue
If necessary, you can use a hair dryer to smooth out the formed folds. In addition to steaming, you can beat off the upholstery seams with little force, then everything will look even more neat and beautiful.
And in conclusion, all fasteners removed at the beginning of work should be installed in their places.

Do-it-yourself car interior trim: some useful tips for each part of the cabin

First, let's watch the video:

seats

If you are planning to completely replace the upholstery on the seats, and not purchase new covers, then first you need to cut the old upholstery at the seams, you will make a pattern along it. After the individual elements are ready, using a sewing machine, you should assemble them into a single product. Nowadays it is much easier to go and buy new covers, in auto shops there is a huge selection of various options for this product.

doors

Removing dirt is especially important when changing upholstery with your own hands on car doors. When you start your pattern, remember to leave about a centimeter of allowances on all sides of the part. Be careful when making the holes needed for the door handle and power window handle. In places where the upholstery is close to the door, be sure to apply a layer of glue.

Do-it-yourself car interior upholstery: ceiling

To replace the ceiling banner, an important fact is the complete dismantling of all backlights, plugs, handles and decorative parts of the racks. Only the fulfillment of this condition will allow you to change the ceiling lining as carefully as possible. By the way, if you chose a leatherette for the ceiling, it is recommended to heat it up a little before starting the installation, then it will be elastic, which means that it will be easy and simple to fix it.

armrests

To tighten the armrests, they must first be removed, then patterns should be made using the previous details, be sure to leave small reserves of material around the edges. After that, the product is glued over the entire area, the edges are carefully fixed, and processed with a hair dryer.

And finally

In cases where there is a need or just a desire, before the final installation of a new upholstery, foam rubber or special insulating material is laid under the parts.

As it becomes clear from the foregoing, do-it-yourself upholstery of a car interior is a very real task. Of course, it requires investing a certain amount of money and several hours of time, but the result is worth it, because then you will be proud of the fact that with your own hands, without the help of professionals, you changed the entire upholstery in the car.

So let's go:

Many owners of the classics know (or maybe they don’t know) that the inner door skins over time have such a property as to go in waves and not fit snugly against the door. Blame the frame of these very skins. It consists of hardboard (or something like that) and when exposed to moisture inside the door (and there is always plenty of it), the hardboard begins to collapse. In severely neglected cases, it comes to the point that the holes for the mounting clips simply crumble and it becomes problematic to fix the trim on the door.

What to do? At first I got out of this situation by pasting the clips with masking tape.

But this is a clear half-measure and the replacement of the skin is still necessary.

Let's start with the choice of material:

Now plastic frames are very popular at dismantling, but plastic has such a property as rattling and, most importantly, bursting.

The next candidate is hardboard. But o5 hardboard (cheap) is very afraid of moisture and is quite soft initially.

And the last one is: plywood. The best option (in my opinion). Of course, plywood is also afraid of water, but with proper processing, nothing bad will happen to it, and the main thing is that it is quite rigid and the risk of tearing out the clip “with meat” is much less when removing it.

Plywood 4 mm thick was chosen for the blank:

Now cut out the frame itself: As a template, the easiest way is to take the old skin and simply circle the contours with a pencil. And then a drill and a jigsaw ...

Quite a painstaking process, the main thing is not to cut too much! After cutting, it is advisable to smooth the edges with a file and sand all the plywood with 120 sandpaper.

Important! The plywood itself is thicker than the old hardboard, and in order for the clips to be fixed firmly and not fly out of the seats, it is necessary to drill small grooves near the attachment points:

Next up is moisture protection. There are a lot of options here! The best would probably be the impregnation of plywood with drying oil. But this process is time-consuming and, in my opinion, redundant. The most optimal treatment will be impregnating soil:

It is important to pay special attention to the edges. 2-4 layers with interlayer drying 3-8 hours… The frame is ready!

Directly hauling: If you are going to drag the old upholstery, then initially you need to tear it off from the old frame. You need to do this carefully, she keeps soundly! It is advisable to pry with your hand and tear it off along a large plane without jerking sharply.

To give a presentable appearance, we carry out water procedures:

Then we glue with double-sided tape all the places where the upholstery was attached to the old frame, remove the film and press the plywood immediately over the entire plane. I highly recommend using glue! It sticks poorly, and the fabric can be ruined very badly.

If successful, you should get something like:

And at the end we tighten the edges:

The process is not very complicated, the main thing is to nail the fabric into a stretch and make sure that wrinkles do not form on the front side.

That's all! By the time the work took 2 days in the garage in the evenings. According to finances, about 350 rubles for plywood and 200 rubles for soil. Thank you all for your attention!

No matter how expensive and high-quality the door is, after some time it will lose its original appearance and require restoration. The easiest way to give a door a second life is to upholster it. A variety of materials can be used for door trim. The technology of work from the upholstery material practically does not change. Read the suggested instructions, and you can easily do the repair yourself.

Many different materials are suitable for self-upholstery of doors, namely:

PVC film;
leather;
dermantin;
vinyl skin.

The last option on the list is the most preferred. Viniliskin is superior to leatherette and artificial leather in terms of basic quality characteristics and is cheaper than genuine leather.

The upholstery material can be purchased at a specialized store in cuts. In general, the size of the cut should be approximately 15 cm larger than the dimensions of the door on each side.

Upholstery will require you to make special rollers from upholstery material. In total, you need to prepare three strips with a width of about 100-150 mm. Choose the height individually according to the height of your door structure.

Choose your lining material. Budget option - foam rubber. A lining 1-2 cm thick is enough.

If you want to improve the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the door, use isolon instead of foam rubber. This is a very practical material with excellent performance and properties. It costs a little more than simple foam rubber and significantly surpasses it in all characteristics.

Additionally, you will need to buy various small accessories, the same decorative nails. A huge selection of such products is available for sale in a wide variety of color variations. Choose to your taste.

If you wish, you can buy upholstery nails, originally upholstered in leather or leatherette. They will be invisible on the main door leaf, which in many situations is the right decision.

In general, try to choose nails whose color will be as close as possible to the color of the upholstery. After restoration, the door should have a harmonious appearance, unless otherwise provided by your design project.

Work on self-upholstery of the door is carried out using glue. You can buy the most ordinary Moment type glue, etc. About 100 ml of glue will go to one side of the door leaf.

In the process of self-upholstery of a wooden door, there should not be any difficulties. Understand the proposed instructions, understand the difference between the sheathing of the outer and inner planes of the canvas and get to work.

Finishing the inside of a wooden door

This method is suitable for finishing those models that open inward, i.e. into the space of the room.

First step. Make a special roller. With this element, you will hide the gap between the door frame and the canvas itself. Also, in some situations, the roller will contribute to a tighter fit of the canvas to the frame.

Second step. Attach a strip of upholstery to the front of the door so that it rests on the base by about 35-40 mm. Fix with a special stapler.

If overhead locks are installed on the door, start fastening the material from it. If your locks are mortise, fastening should start slightly below the central part of the long side of the door. Cover the entire perimeter of the canvas with similar strips.

Third step. Lay foam rubber or other selected filler. Pre-cut the material into strips about 100 mm wide. To attach the lining, use the same stapler. The resulting roller should protrude by approximately 10-40 mm, depending on the characteristics of the ratio of the door itself and decorative trim. On this roller is ready.

Fourth stage. Measure the space between the inner edges of the roller you created and cut out a strip of thick foam rubber. To determine the appropriate strip width, subtract 10 mm on each side from the previous bead measurement. Attach the finished foam strip.

Fifth stage. Proceed directly to the upholstery of the door. Take a piece of the selected upholstery material around the corner, carefully fold its edges about 6 cm and lay it in the corner of the door leaf so that the upholstery comes a little on the surface of the previously prepared roller.

Hammer a decorative nail at a distance of about 0.5 cm from the edge.

Take the upholstery material by the second upper corner, tuck it in the same way, and drive in the second decorative nail, pulling the upholstery a little.

Make sure the piece of upholstery is laid evenly. To do this, run your hand along the center line of the door with a small clip, reach the bottom and, holding the upholstery tightly with your hand, attach its lower corners to the edges of the door. If the distance is the same on both edges, you can continue to work. If there are discrepancies, the fastening of the upholstery will have to start over, otherwise it will be uneven and ugly at the end.

Nail the upper edge of the canvas with decorative nails in 1 cm increments. Then, follow the same pattern, finish any side part, carefully tucking the upholstery material at an equal distance and slightly pulling it back.

Get to the bottom edge and move on to finishing the second side. At the end, fix the lower free edge with a stapler. On this self-plating is completed. Proceed to install the peephole and old or new locks.

If the door structure consists of two wings, the restoration is carried out in the same order. An important nuance is only that the vertical roller needs to be equipped on a sash with a handle.

Video - Do-it-yourself door upholstery

Finishing the outside of a wooden door

This is an instruction for structures tearing outward.

First step. Close the door and transfer the projection of its box directly onto the canvas. This will give you the outline of the new upholstery. Indentation around the edges is necessary for the "quarter".

Second step. Fasten the lining material with about a centimeter indent from the intended line.

Third step. Just as in the previous instructions, nail the main piece of upholstery, leaving its bottom edge not fixed.

Fourth step. Make an insulating roller. With external upholstery, it is attached to the box, and not to the canvas. It is made in almost the same way as when making internal upholstery, only the volume of internal foam rubber needs to be slightly increased.

Place the roller on the hinge side so that it is flush with the door jamb. In relation to the lock side and the upper part, the roller must be extended by 0.5 cm. Attach the underside of the finished roller to the door leaf so that when closing it is tightly pressed against the door sill.

If you attach the roller directly to the threshold, it will wear out very quickly due to rubbing with your feet.

Fifth step. Fix the bottom edge of the upholstery with a construction stapler, and then install the locks, new or old handles, a peephole and, if necessary, decorative elements.

There are two main options for sheathing a metal door structure: a budget one using materials like vinyl leather, leatherette and the like, and a more expensive one using decorative panels. Read the instructions for each of them and choose the option that suits you.

Video - Upholstery and insulation of metal doors

Budget way

Restoration of metal doors can be performed using the same materials as wooden doors. However, in this case, there is no need to use decorative carnations - everything is done with glue.

First step. Carefully grease the edges of the door leaf with high-quality glue and fix the foam strips on it. Cut off the excess lining along the door profile.

Second step. Apply adhesive to the end of the top of the door and proceed with gluing the selected upholstery material. First glue the top, then the door hinges, then glue the locks, and finally the bottom of the door. Smooth out creases and get rid of material distortions directly in the process.

Third step. After the glue has completely dried (drying time is indicated in the instructions for a specific tool), cut off excess material, if any, with a sharp clerical knife. Be careful not to damage the main upholstery.

Fourth step. Install the peephole, handles and return the locks to their place.

expensive way

This method involves upholstering a metal structure with special panels. For outdoor upholstery, linings made of MDF are optimally suited. They are made in several standard sizes. After such upholstery, the door will look no worse than expensive factory-made counterparts.

Perform interior decoration with wall panels. Choose the upholstery material in accordance with the interior of the room and the features of the operation of the door. MDF has a more attractive appearance, often imitating the texture of exclusive and expensive wood, but this material needs to be treated with care. Plastic panels are much easier to maintain, but not as beautiful.

First step. Measure your metal drill. You need to know the width and exact height of the canvas. On the inside of the door you will find corners designed to increase the rigidity of the door structure. The width of such corners corresponds to the depth of the door leaf. You also need to fix this parameter in the measurements. You will need it when buying sheet foam and wooden beams.

Define the inner height of the canvas as the distance from the bottom to the top corner. The width of the inner surface, respectively, will be equal to the distance between the side metal corners. Record the measurement results.

Second step. Go to the construction store along with the results of previous measurements. Buy foam plastic, panels from the selected material, a wooden beam and a decorative corner there with a 10-15 percent margin.

Third step. Return home, and proceed to finish the door. First, cut the block into 4 pieces. The length of these segments must correspond to the width of the door leaf.

Take a bar, attach it to the upper edge of the canvas and, using a marker or pencil, draw a line along this bar on the base. Do the same at the bottom of the canvas. Place the remaining blocks on the door so that all 4 bars as a result are installed at approximately the same distance. Leave appropriate labels.

Fourth step. Armed with an electric drill, make 16 mounting holes in your door. There should be 4 holes for each bar. The diameter of these holes should be equal to the diameter of the screws.

Fifth step. Fix the bars on the canvas with self-tapping screws. This will give you a frame.

Sixth step. Drill mounting holes to secure the upholstery panel. The optimal number of holes for mounting each such panel, as a rule, is given by the manufacturer in the attached instructions.

Seventh step. Prepare peepholes, locks and handles in the facing panel.

Eighth stage. Fix the panel. For greater convenience, you can remove the door leaf from the hinges.

Move on to upholstery on the inside of the door leaf.

First step. Fasten the frame bars to the canvas as you did with the outer upholstery.

Second step. Cut the foam into pieces, focusing on the distance between the frame bars. In the appropriate parts of the foam, make holes for the peephole, handles and door locks.

Third step. Lay the foam sheets in the spaces between all the bars. Additionally, you can fix the foam with high-quality glue.

Fourth step. Attach the inner panels to the frame. Plastic panels are fastened with a stapler, while MDF panels are fixed with clamps.

Fifth step. Fasten a decorative corner of a suitable material around the perimeter of the door leaf. It will hide the edges of the upholstery elements and give the door a more attractive appearance.

Sixth step. Put a peephole, handles, locks, if necessary, replace the trim.

These simple instructions will allow you to update the look of your door with minimal financial and time costs.

Successful work!

Video - How to upholster a door with your own hands

Of course, the most important quality of any car. However, for the aesthetic pleasure of the driver and passengers, it is simply necessary that the interior of the vehicle be. The new car is fine with that. But over time, the colors of the upholstery fade, during operation, spots and scuffs appear, which dry cleaning can no longer cope with. The bright interiors of the car are especially susceptible to pollution.

The simplest solution to the problem is to contact a car service, where specialists will completely replace the upholstery and seats. However, it will be much cheaper to perform such a procedure yourself. You can sew or buy covers for the seats and pick up the material for the new ceiling lining, doors, armrests, rear shelves, torpedoes and other details to match them. The new upholstery of the car interior can completely change the whole look of the cabin and give it elegance and attractiveness.

Material selection

Of course, a leather interior in a car is just an ideal option. But this pleasure is very expensive and not every car owner can afford it. Consider what other materials (which price is available) can be used to update the interior design of the vehicle.

The most popular and commonly used car upholstery materials are:

Carpet. This is a fairly affordable and cheapest material, which is a non-woven base, on top of which a “decorative” layer of pile is applied. The advantage of this material is the presence of a large number of shades and the simplest installation.
alcantara. Unlike the first version, Alcantara consists of a woven base made from fine-fiber threads. Manufacturing includes both textile and chemical processes. It is worth noting that this is a more durable and durable material with silkiness, softness and dirt-repellent properties.
Leatherette. This is an inexpensive option for interior trim, which, in addition to cost and attractive appearance, has only drawbacks. The main disadvantages of this material are (for quite a long time), increased elasticity, excessive susceptibility to mechanical damage and absorption of odors (sometimes quite unpleasant).

When purchasing material for a new upholstery, it is very important to pay attention to the quality of the goods. Check that the structure of the fabric or leather is uniform. If Alcantara is chosen, then when cutting out, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the pile. Otherwise, it may turn out that the details of one chair will have different shades.

Required Tools

Upholstery of the interior with leather, velor, alcantara, carpet or leatherette should be done in a certain sequence. To do this, you will need the following tools, which you may have to buy:

scissors and a knife for linoleum;
screwdriver;
glue;
a set of keys;
materials (if desired);
sewing machine (if you plan to replace the upholstery of the seats).

Work algorithm

It should be understood that depending on what model of car you have, the process of trimming the interior of the car may be slightly different. But in general, the algorithm of work is as follows:

Initially, it is necessary to remove all fittings and all fasteners. These are plugs, handles and visors.
Next, you should turn off all the electrics inside the cabin and pull out the connectors.
After unfasten the decorative overlay panels and remove the old trim.
After dismantling, it is important to clean all surfaces from dirt, dust and rust.
Next, you need to degrease all plastic and metal parts.
Then it is important to properly cut the new material. It is best to attach the old parts to the cardboard and cut them out. And only after you make sure that everything is done correctly, transfer the pattern to the selected material.
After that, install new skin elements, well coating the surfaces with glue.
If necessary, steam the new elements with a hairdryer so that wrinkles do not form. In addition to steaming, you can still lightly beat off the upholstery seams to make everything look more fitted and tidy.
The conclusion will be the installation of fittings and fasteners in their place.

On the video - hauling the cabin:

seats. In the event that the car owner plans to replace the upholstery of the seats, and not, he will most likely have to divide the old upholstery into separate parts (rip at the seams) and cut out a new product along them. Then you have to use a sewing machine to sew everything together. It is much easier to purchase covers, especially since auto parts stores offer a large selection of different variations.

doors. Important when replacing the trim on car doors after dismantling the old material. When cutting a pattern, it should be borne in mind that allowances are needed (about 10 mm). Very carefully, it is necessary to cut the holes for the window lifter handle and the door handle. Adhesive should be applied where the skin is in direct contact with the door.

Ceiling. In order to change the ceiling lining in the car, it is important to completely dismantle all handles, plugs, backlights and decorative trims of the pillars. This is necessary in order to install the new ceiling as accurately as possible. It is worth noting that if the ceiling is upholstered with leatherette, then it should be slightly heated before work. Thanks to this, the material will become more elastic, light and easy to install.

Armrest. To tighten the armrest, it must first be removed. Then, using the old elements, make patterns from the new material, leaving allowances for bending. Then glue the products around the entire perimeter and fix the edges. In order to avoid wrinkles, you can use a hair dryer, gently steaming the material.

On the video - hauling the ceiling of the car:

If there is a desire to additionally perform sound insulation, then before installing the parts, either a layer of foam rubber or a layer of special insulating material can be laid under them.

Summing up all of the above, we can conclude that change the interior design of your car. Such a procedure, of course, will require financial costs and time from the owner of the vehicle. But after the efforts made, the car owner will be able to be proud of the fact that he replaced the interior trim of the car with his own hands and changed its design.