Planting parsley leaves. Planting parsley in open ground

Before you go for seeds, you need to choose the right plant. Parsley is leaf and root. The first is grown for the sake of lush spicy greens and is most often found in household plots. The second is distinguished by large juicy rhizomes. They are suitable for preparing broths, soups, sauces, salads, stews, pickles and other dishes.

Root parsley also gives greens, but in smaller quantities. In addition, the leaves of this variety are coarser, and if you pinch them off ahead of time, the rhizome will develop poorly. When choosing a variety for planting, it is worth considering the time of germination and ripening time. Early root parsley is suitable for drying, late-ripening varieties are ideal for long-term storage.

Leaf parsley is distinguished by the appearance of the leaves. They can be simple and curly, filling the bed with lush lush greenery. These species are similar in taste, many gardeners prefer to grow them together, in the same area. Spicy grass with bright fragrant greens can be planted in balcony boxes or pots in the kitchen.

What to plant after parsley next year

  • Parsley for seedlings and for growing at home on windowsills can be planted from January on the days of the growing moon to December.
  • When can dill and parsley be planted outdoors? In open ground, in the garden, the time to plant parsley comes in the second half of April. But, if it does not sprout (it happens that you sow-sow, but it does not sprout), then you can sow several times per season. Parsley is a cold-resistant plant and the planting temperature of parsley is 1 ... 5 degrees. It easily withstands frost.

Days of the growing moon for planting parsley in 2016

  • when you can plant parsley in March - from 1 to 8 and from 24 to 31 March,
  • parsley is planted in April - April 1 - 6 and April 23 - 30,
  • on planting days for parsley in May - 1 - 5 and 23 - 31 May.

A significant disadvantage of parsley is that it takes a long time to sprout, so if you plant parsley on greens in April, it will be edible in June. Parsley seeds germinate more slowly, so the seeds can be soaked before planting.

To speed up the cultivation of parsley in the open field, cover the crops with a covering material. You can even do this. I downloaded to cover with polyethylene, and then, after the appearance of the first green sprouts, with lutrasil or other woven material. Under polyethylene, parsley will sprout quickly, and then changing the polyethylene to a woven material, you will not need to worry about the shoots burning.

Parsley can be planted in soil that has normal or slightly increased acidity. Well, if the soil is not very dense, even loose. It is allowed to plant greens after cabbage, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes or potatoes grew in the garden - it will bear fruit remarkably and give fresh shoots.

Planting parsley is considered an excellent way to change the type of planted crop in the garden or dacha: after it, many tuberous plants - potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes - take root well, bear fruit, it will not hurt her stay in the beds and for the subsequent cultivation of beets, zucchini, cucumbers.

The root system of parsley is underdeveloped, located in the upper layers of the soil, not particularly pulling minerals and trace elements from the soil. After the harvest is completed, the site must be dug up, fertilized with peat or compost, after which it is ready to "accept" new tenants - cucumbers or potatoes.

From the point of view of planting and growing, parsley rightfully belongs to unpretentious, moderately capricious plants. Usually even inexperienced gardeners who are not experienced in the intricacies of gardening can easily cope with it. But to ensure the full growth of leaves, the formation of root crops, you will need to study the features of the parsley variety chosen for planting, study the recommendations - and then there will always be fresh, fragrant greens on the table, moreover, grown by yourself.

Types and varieties of parsley

A variety of seeds are on sale, when choosing, you need to focus on the ripening time, taste, consumer reviews. Among the root species, the following are especially popular:

  1. 1. Sugar. Early ripe parsley, already 100 days after sowing, forms a powerful juicy conical rhizome. On the cut, it is creamy white, sugary. There are about 40 leaves in the rosette with a delicate pleasant aroma.
  2. 2. Harvest. The variety is mid-season, giving few leaves. The root is strong and juicy, about 20 cm long, has a rich spicy taste.
  3. 3. Bordovicskaya. Mid-season parsley, fully matures 135 days after germination. The rhizomes are cylindrical, very large (average 170 g). The taste is delicate, fresh, the aroma is bright and strong.

Leaf parsley is no less diverse. It is advisable to combine early and late varieties, this will allow you to get fresh spicy greens throughout the season.

  1. 1. Astra. Very early plant, leaf collection can be started 65 days after sowing. The socket is high and dense, the greens are curly, elegant, juicy and fragrant.
  2. 2. Esmeralda. Parsley sprouts 110 days after sowing. Variety curly, very productive. Strong sockets give a lot of juicy fragrant greens, after cutting they grow even more actively.
  3. 3. Ordinary sheet. An early variety, gives a bountiful harvest 70 days after sowing the seeds. The large dark green leaves have a delicate spicy aroma and an extremely delicate texture, making them ideal for salads and side dishes. The roots are hard and thin, not eaten.

When deciding how to plant parsley, it is worth considering not only traditional beds, but also flower beds. Fast-growing bright greens perfectly set off multi-colored summers and decorative and deciduous perennials.

If you decide to grow parsley in open areas, then you need to choose only special varieties. Today there are a lot of them, but we will dwell in more detail only on those that are in great demand among gardeners.

This variety allows you to grow a plant that forms a large rosette with abundant leaves. They are dark green in color. Another bush is characterized by strong stems. The harvest can be harvested early and is always high.

common leaf parsley

green crystal

This variety is late maturing. It is universal, has an intensive growth of green mass. You can distinguish a variety from all the others by such a sign as large leaves with an incredibly rich aroma. After cutting, they grow very quickly.

Parsley green crystal

Green Crystal is a variety that is great for freezing. It retains its taste when dried, fresh. Even housewives use it for conservation. It will also be interesting to learn how to plant greens at home.

Delicate fragrance

This variety gives an early harvest. Its distinctive feature is the presence of shiny and bright green leaves. After cutting, the foliage grows intensively and gives others an incredibly pleasant aroma.

Delicate fragrance

And thanks to its excellent taste, parsley stimulates the appetite and is an integral decoration of both a festive and everyday table. For all greenery lovers, it will be interesting to learn how hydroponic growing of greenery works.

morning freshness

This variety is early maturing. It has a large leaf rosette, which is slightly sprawling. The foliage is medium in size, has a dark green color scheme. And parsley sprigs are very fragrant. Once harvested, new ingots grow very quickly.

morning freshness

Cut greens for several days are discarded unchanged in appearance. Morning freshness is actively used in cooking in the preparation of various dishes. And here you can read about how to grow eggplant seedlings without picking.

festival

An early ripe variety that gives a harvest already on the 55th day after planting the seeds. It is distinguished by a strongly developed rosette, on which there are 30-60 leaves. They have a dark green color, they are dissected, fragrant and grow well after cutting.

festival

Parsley sprigs have a pleasant aroma and taste, as they contain essential oils. To use greens in their pure form, it is necessary to cut off the foliage, the height of which is 10-12 cm. To dry, cut the parsley during the formation of buds.

Bogatyr

Use this variety is necessary for those gardeners who want to get a late harvest. It will be possible to cut parsley 65 days after planting the seeds. Bogatyr can be used for growing in open ground or in a greenhouse. The rosette is large, its height reaches 25-40 cm. Up to 25 leaves are formed on it.

Bogatyr

Their color is dark green. They are incredibly fragrant and grow back quickly after harvest. Rhizomes can overwinter in the ground, and in spring give fresh greens. Parsley can be consumed fresh, dried and canned.

Sugar

This is an early variety that allows you to get a high yield of parsley. A bunch of green foliage is formed already 50 days after the formation of the first shoots. Root crops have the shape of a cone, the length of which is 20-22 cm.

Sugar

Parsley Astra

The variety is early maturing. He has young greens formed on the 55-60th day from the moment of planting the seeds. Features a tight socket. The foliage is curly, corrugated and grows quickly after cutting. The variety allows you to get a high yield. It can be grown both in open and closed ground.

Parsley is an essential component in the preparation of various dishes. You can grow it in open ground, as the culture is not whimsical to care for and can even endure the winter normally. If you follow the presented rules of planting and care, then be sure that after 2 months your garden will show off lush, fragrant and tasty greenery.

As we already wrote, two types of parsley are grown in culture - root and leaf. Leaf parsley has two varieties - smooth and curly, which differ only in appearance. Parsley cultivars are classified according to maturity. We offer you an acquaintance with the best varieties of parsley.

  • Gloria is an early maturing productive variety for growing in greenhouses and in open ground with a low rosette and large leaves. Grown for fresh consumption and for harvesting for the winter;
  • Bogatyr is a fragrant productive variety that grows well after cutting. The leaves are large, triangular, dark green, on long petioles. Ripening time from 70 to 80 days;
  • Hamburger is one of the new varieties of medium height with delicate fragrant bright green leaves. The ripening period is from 75 to 90 days. Used fresh and dried;
  • Carnival is a high-yielding variety with fragrant medium-sized dark green leaves on long petioles that grow back well after cutting. No more than 60 days pass from germination to harvest.

The varieties Italian Giant, Green Crystal, Appetizing, Fragrant Wall, Rosava, Green Carpet and others are also in demand in the culture.

  • Mooskrause 2 is a German compact variety with heavily corrugated fragrant dark green leaves. From cutting to the growth of new leaves takes no more than 40 days. Parsley of this variety tolerates drought and low temperatures well;
  • Bravo is a variety with long, upright stems that are easy to harvest. The leaves are strongly corrugated, bright green, very fragrant;
  • Astra is an early productive variety with corrugated leaves collected in dense rosettes. Leaves grow back quickly after cutting. The variety is grown both in open and closed ground;
  • Esmeralda is a mid-season variety whose greens grow well after cutting. In mass, the bush reaches 50 g. In the rosette there are 25-30 curly leaves on short petioles;
  • Breeze is a tall variety with a rosette height of up to 75 cm, the ripening time of which is about 80 days, and the weight of one plant reaches 60 g. The greenery is tender, after cutting it retains a fresh look for a long time.

In comparison with cultures known since ancient times, parsley was cultivated relatively recently, only about 10 centuries ago. Even 30-40 years ago, we grew it in few places and little by little. There were only two varieties in use. Today this culture is becoming more and more popular. Varietal abundance has appeared, crop areas are increasing year by year, demand is growing, and there are reasons for this. Residents of the countryside, who until recently were in the majority, easily found a substitute for parsley among the green abundance in nature and in gardens and orchards. The closest relatives of parsley were used for food and for medicinal purposes - wild plants kupyr, chervil (snack, font). And for a modern city dweller with food from stores, parsley, like other green gifts of nature, is sometimes simply vital for maintaining health and maintaining strength.

root parsley

Root vegetables and greens are used as food

In appearance, greenery is similar to the root, but forms a more powerful and dense bush. The leaf parsley root is thin, long, branched and hard like a tree. Only greens are used for food.

Powerful variety Italian giant

curly parsley

In appearance, it cannot be confused with the usual root and leaf varieties.

A separate bush looks like a miniature tree, and thickets look like a small forest

Parsley is a real concentrate of vitamins and nutrients. The daily dose of the main vitamin C for humans is contained in 50 g of greens. This is 4 times more than in a serving of a lemon of the same weight. And the daily dose of rare vitamin K, which is not found in all green crops, is contained in only 20 g. Vitamin K is one of the most important elements of the sexual function of the body, therefore parsley is considered an aphrodisiac, especially in mixed recipes that also contain digestible zinc.

In addition to these two, parsley contains the following set of vitamins:

  • A - 5.5 mg.
  • E - 3.8 mg.
  • B vitamins - B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9.

With parsley, you can get a large amount of potassium, up to 1000 mg per 100 g of greens. And:

  • 42 mg magnesium.
  • 250 mg calcium.
  • 160 mg of chlorine.
  • 130 mg of phosphorus.
  • 35 mg sodium.
  • 200 mg sulfur.
  • 1 mg zinc.
  • 110 micrograms of fluoride.
  • 6 mg of iron.
  • 15 micrograms of iodine.
  • 3 mg manganese.
  • 0.5 mg copper.

Parsley contains vegetable proteins, fats and carbohydrates and fiber. Calorie content is low, only 54 kcal per 100 g of product.

Parsley is considered both a food and a medicinal plant. Its use in folk and official medicine is described in specialized sources. In addition to restorative, dietary and cosmetic purposes, it is used in the treatment of about 15 serious health disorders in various ways according to various recipes.

Varieties

Of their old, time-tested varieties, you can pay attention to the variety

Sugar

The variety was included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation in 1950.

A root variety with a powerful and sprawling leaf rosette, the number of leaves is from 25 to 45. The length of the leaf can reach 50 cm. High yield, from 30 to 60 kg per 10 sq.m.

The root crop is light gray on the outside, with white flesh and a yellow core, 4 to 7 cm in diameter, with excellent taste, pointed shape, tapering at the bottom, weighing 40–70 g.

The variety is early, from germination to use 75-100 days.

Cold resistant. Planting date in most regions is April.

Of the modern achievements of breeding, the variety stands out

Italian giant

The variety was included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation in 2007.

Leaf variety. Justifies its name, builds up a powerful green mass. It forms a not too dense rosette, only up to 25, but very large, leaves. It is possible to pluck on the greens without waiting for full growth, therefore it is very fast for the return of the crop, although it belongs to mid-ripening varieties. From germination to full growth of greenery 60-65 days. Productivity about 30 kg from 10 sq.m. It is remarkable in that it can produce early greens from roots that have overwintered in the soil much earlier than from seeds. Greens fragrant, a good trade dress. used fresh, frozen and dried for the winter. Shade tolerant variety.

Esmeralda

A variety of leaf curly (curly) parsley. The variety is mid-season. Forms stocky rosettes with dense leaves. After trimming a part of the foliage, it is able to quickly build up a new green mass. For such varieties, it is quite fruitful, up to 15 kg from 10 sq.m. Use the same way as regular leaf parsley. Very effectively decorates salads, side dishes and meat dishes.

General Growing Conditions

All types of parsley are hardy and unpretentious plants. Mature plants can recover in autumn after frosts down to minus 5. In spring, seeds germinate in open ground even at a slight positive temperature and grow well at 10–18 degrees. In a cool parsley grows more slowly, has a denser and heavier leaf. But parsley accumulates a strong aroma due to essential oils in the sun at high temperatures, up to 25 degrees.

High demands are made only on the quality of the soil. She needs loose, initially fertile or improved areas with significant doses of organic matter. On poor soils, 40 - 50 kg of humus are applied per 10 sq.m. and 2-3 liters of wood ash per 10 sq.m. Requirements for watering and heat are not overstated. Only an abnormal drought or frost can destroy it. But, of course, in good conditions, it grows better. And you can not allow deep drying of the soil. Also to the detriment of intense heat and direct sunshine in mid-July. At this time of the year, it is best grown under non-woven fabric.

A variety of materials can be used as arcs, for example, glass reinforcement

Sowing seeds

You can sow before winter in late October - mid-November, then the harvest will be 7-12 days earlier than during spring planting. It is better to sow in slightly frost-bitten ground. The main thing is that the seeds do not swell before winter, because they can germinate and die.

In spring, depending on the climate of the region and the conditions of the year, it is sown in early April - early May.

In both terms, they sow in furrows to a depth of about 1 cm. The distance between the furrows is 25–30 cm, between the plants in the furrow 4–5 cm. This is not a final distance. If all the seeds sprout, you will have to thin out the plantings so that there is at least 9–12 cm between the bushes.

The plantation from above can be covered with humus or peat, this will protect the soil from drying out and the formation of a hard crust with cracks. Also, before the appearance of growth, you can cover the crops with a transparent film, this will accelerate the warming of the earth and seedlings.

Seed preparation

In the fall, sown with dry seeds. In spring, the seeds are soaked for 2-3 days in a damp cotton bag or at the bottom of any dish with a thin film of water. Not soaked seeds will germinate for a very long time, up to 20 days, soaked seeds can sprout for 8-10 days.

Purchased coated seeds are prepared according to the instructions on the package.

Propagation by roots

The roots of parsley that have overwintered in the ground in the spring with the first warmth start to grow and very quickly increase marketable greens. This is often used in leafy parsley plantations. Root species are dug up with roots, but some of them can be left for early valuable greenery next year. But the main problem is the successful wintering of the roots. Roots die if:

  • The lowland landing site is flooded with water.
  • Winter is warm and rainy.
  • There are frosts below 25 degrees without snow cover.

In the latter case, the roots can be saved by covering the plantation with hay, straw, shavings, etc. But in a warm, damp winter, it will hurt, the roots under such a layer will rot faster.

perennial plot

Parsley is called both one and two-year-old plant. Both options are correct - in the first year it grows from seeds, the second year from roots, and by autumn it produces seeds. Using these properties, they often organize a small plot of parsley for their own consumption.

  • In the first year, parsley is sown with seeds.
  • The second year it grows from the roots, by autumn it forms and sheds seeds.
  • In the third year, the seeds germinate and yield again.

With this method, it is important to weed the areas from weeds, especially at first. Then the parsley will fill the entire space and itself will oppress competing plants, forming a continuous carpet.

Such areas are not suitable for commercial use. Parsley of different growth periods, young from seeds and two-year-old from roots, grows unfriendly, at different times. But such a site will provide its own consumption completely.

Care

Parsley care is not particularly specific and consists of standard operations.

Loosening and weeding

It is carried out with a flat cutter or hoe to a depth of 3-5 cm, in dry weather, when the weeds dry out quickly. In wet weather, some weeds can recover and continue growing. In dry weather, loosening also destroys the crust and closes the capillaries through which moisture evaporates from the soil, so this operation replaces additional watering. Weeds close to parsley are removed by hand. The multiplicity of this work is determined by necessity, as a rule, in cultivated areas 2–3 times per season.

It is necessary to ensure that the roots of root parsley do not stick out of the ground, otherwise the top of the fruit darkens and coarsens.

A plantation weeded 1–2 times can be covered with a 2–3 cm layer of mulch. Under it, the soil will be soft and moist, without cracks, and small weeds will not be able to break through the mulch.

thinning

Thickened root parsley will not be able to form a large root crop, therefore, after 2-3 weeks from germination, it should be pulled apart to a distance of at least 8-12 cm between the bushes. Leaf parsley is not so demanding on space.

Watering

Parsley, especially root parsley, does not tolerate even a short waterlogging. The roots lock up, can rot, the overall growth of the plant is inhibited. Therefore, overwatering can be harmful. However, no crop can grow well in dry soil, and the soil must be kept moist and watered as needed.

top dressing

On fertile soils, there is no need for top dressing. On the contrary, top dressing can be harmful. For example, fresh organic matter introduced into the soil for digging can cause curvature, cracks and fruit growth into several shoots in parsley roots. And from an excess of nitrogen, parsley can begin to rapidly increase its green mass, but not quite normal - odorless and tasteless, with poor keeping quality.

But on some soils top dressing may be required. Each farmer knows the potential of his soil for the yield of all crops. If poor soils are not corrected by autumn-spring fertilization, this can be done during growth using the usual set of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and complex micronutrient fertilizers, or nitrogen fertilizers and wood ash.

For those who have grown carrots but do not know how to grow parsley, it is useful to know that these crops are close relatives and their growing conditions are very similar, especially root parsley and carrots.

Parsley for seeds

The best root crops are left on the seeds, even, without flaws, standard in appearance. The tops are not cut along the head, as for storage, but 1–2 cm are left so as not to damage the growth bud. In winter, they are stored in any premises at a temperature of 0 - + 5 degrees in any container, sprinkled with clean, slightly damp sand.

2-3 weeks before planting, it is advisable to germinate the testes at a temperature of 6-12 C, digging in rows in boxes with light soil, humus or peat.

The seed plant requires good fertile soil and a large feeding area, approximately 50 by 50 cm per plant.

The main operation, without which seeds cannot be obtained, is the removal of late extra flower-bearing shoots. They do not have time to ripen, but only expend the strength of the plant. No more than 9–12 seed umbels should develop on one plant. Anything that grows back later is removed. The plant can produce young seed shoots even in August, so this must be monitored.

Seed care is the same as for food crops. Unlike other crops, parsley seeds do not ripen all at once, but gradually. Therefore, seeds are harvested as they mature in several passes. as the umbrella turns brown-brown - this is a sign of seed ripening. Umbrellas are dried on fabric under a roof, with a draft or wind. Then they are threshed and sifted through a sieve, or blown in a wind of sufficient strength. Then the seeds are dried further. Store in fabric bags in a suspended state. The bags should have a paper tag with the name of the crop, variety and date of collection.

Next year, you can check the germination of your seeds by scattering a few dozen of them on a constantly damp cloth in a warm place. Seeds can germinate gradually every day. Seeds that have not germinated on days 9–11 are already worthless.

Harvest and storage

For your own consumption, you can already cut off small shoots at the earliest possible time. But only the lateral ones, without touching 2-3 central branches, otherwise the young, not yet highly developed plant may die. Older plants tolerate cutting more easily and immediately begin to build up a new green mass. Moreover, cutting the lower lateral branches on large dense bushes can be considered a maintenance operation, because if they are not cut, they will begin to turn yellow and die.

Branches 12-15 cm long and 15-20 cm long are suitable for sale.

Market party, not by weight, but by bunches

Cut beams can be stored for 2-3 days in the shade, lowering the tips into water no deeper than 0.5 -1 cm.

For 12-15 days, the greens will be stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 - +5 C.

For long-term storage of parsley:

  • Dry and store in a dry place.
  • Store frozen.

Root parsley can be used as soon as it has grown root. For winter storage, it is dug up in the fall, preferably in dry weather, then the root crops will be clean. The tops are cut flush with the crown, without damaging the skin of the fruit. Stored in basements at temperatures from 0 to + 5 C and above, but the warmer, the shorter the shelf life. In heat, the root crop will wither, begin to rot or germinate. The best way to store is in boxes or containers, on racks in 2-3 layers, backfilled with a thin layer of clean, damp sand.

The storage conditions for root vegetables of carrots and parsley are similar.

Problems when growing parsley

Parsley is an unpretentious and hardy plant. She has few pests, and diseases affect her extremely rarely.

Most often, parsley grows poorly, the leaf turns yellow and curls due to abnormally bad conditions:

  • Drought, dry soil. sunburn at the peak of summer.
  • Waterlogging. soaking and rotting of roots in a marshy lowland or due to excessive rain and watering.
  • Initially unsuitable for growth soil - a lot of clay, sand or stones.
  • Overdose of fertilizers when top dressing.
  • Harmful industrial emissions, acid or alkali rain, fog or dew.

Pests

The spicy smell of parsley repels almost all pests, except for melon aphids and carrot flies, which lay their larvae in the roots.

Carrot fly can infect parsley only twice per season, during the laying of larvae:

  • When cherry blossoms.
  • When the white cabbage butterfly begins to fly, the end of July - the beginning of August.

At this time, it is better in advance for several days, parsley is scattered under the root:

  • Pure tobacco dust.
  • A mixture of tobacco dust 1: 1 with fluffy lime
  • A mixture of tobacco dust 1: 1 with wood ash.
  • A mixture of tobacco dust, fluff lime and wood ash in equal parts.

From folk remedies, strong-smelling infusions of citrus peel, wormwood, infusions of dandelion roots and others are also used.

These same remedies will help confuse the melon aphid, although it infrequently infects parsley anyway.

But the best natural protection against pests can be considered the joint planting of onions and parsley, alternating them in rows or plants in a row. Moreover, onions in parsley can be grown both on a head and on a set, and on greens with heads or seeds of special varieties that give greens from seeds.

The smell of parsley confuses the onion fly, it cannot find the onion. And the smell of onions disorients the carrot fly and aphids. As a result, these two crops grow side by side without pests.

Diseases

Parsley can be affected by several fungal diseases:

Common name - downy mildew

Despite the fact that these diseases have different fungi - pathogens, the mechanism of their appearance and control measures are the same. The fungus sets when the foliage, especially in the lower tiers, is constantly damp, thickened, not illuminated by the sun and poorly ventilated.

They fight fungal infection by thinning, removing diseased branches, and in case of severe damage, the plant is completely removed. They are also treated with copper-containing preparations - a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, or recommended fungicides (antifungal drugs) according to the instructions.

Radically spoils the harvest

Rust in some sources is also referred to as a fungal disease. Therefore, the measures for prevention and control of it are recommended the same as for other fungal diseases. But the same symptoms on the foliage, not only of parsley, but of any crops, can appear when drops of acid, alkaline rain get in, or when dew appears on the foliage from fog that has absorbed harmful emissions from industrial enterprises.

Also, harmful substances in a completely unpredictable combination and concentration can settle on the leaves in a dry form and react with plant sap or when atmospheric moisture enters from fog or rain.

Such emissions cannot harm the plant if it grows under nonwoven or film cover.

But the terrible pictures of parsley diseases should not frighten farmers too much. Such misfortunes, of course, happen, but quite rarely.

How many times I tried to grow root parsley, nothing worked. Last year I sowed parsley before winter, rose with bald spots, but still in sufficient quantity. Thinned out even to the heap thoroughly. And yesterday I was harvesting. I have never grown such roots. Now I will sow before winter. Although this one will last a long time. Almost 4kg already processed, grated for freezing. Grade Root sugar from SeDek.

Dear, Moscow region

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/69143/page-4

You cannot grow root parsley, like carrots, with seedlings. A couple of times I tried leaf and root (6–10 pieces) to grow seedlings, since the end of February. The seedlings are cool, the bushes are whole, then it grows well in the garden. But! Both times, balls of roots grew instead of root crops.

Prof, Cherepovets

Remember, parsley is a biennial plant. While the one planted with seeds is making its way, last year's one is already earing from the roots! Leave the one-year-old to winter, by the end of May you will be with parsley!

Travitel, Moscow

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/69143/page-5

Video: how to grow parsley on a windowsill

To grow parsley for commercial use and make money from it. will require significant space, investment of labor and funds. But growing parsley for your needs in a small area is not difficult. Especially if you allocate a piece of land for the method of cultivation, described above as a "perennial plot". This method will require a little work and attention at first, and then parsley can grow like a wild weed on the lawn.

It is difficult to imagine a garden without a garden bed with herbs.

For parsley - one of the most popular green crops - there is a place even in a small area. Planting parsley in open ground and caring for it are simple, and knowing the nuances of cultivation will allow you to use vitamin fresh herbs for a long time - from spring to autumn.

Agrotechnical requirements
Parsley is a plant with a two year growth cycle. In the first year of vegetation, it increases the green mass of leaves or, depending on the variety, the underground part. In the second year, it forms seeds after flowering.

Two types of parsley are grown in open ground:

leaf - traditionally more common, in which greens are eaten (the root part is inedible);
root - cultivated for the sake of a fleshy dense root crop of light yellow color. The greens of this type of vegetable are not as fragrant and coarser than the leaf, but after the formation of the root crop, it can also be used as a seasoning (if you start cutting the foliage earlier, the root part will not gain the desired mass).
In turn, leaf parsley in the form of leaves is ordinary and curly.

Two methods of planting a vegetable are used: seeds and rhizome. In the first case, greens and root crops are obtained, in the second - greens starting from April, and in the second half of summer - seeds

Unlike many other crops, the planting site of a vegetable can not be changed for a long time. But no matter how many years parsley grows in one place after a single sowing, it remains a biennial: crumbling, uncollected seeds spontaneously germinate in the spring as young shoots.

Climatic conditions
Undemanding to climate conditions allows growing parsley from seeds in open ground in all regions of the country - from hot southern to northern ones with harsh and long winters. A cold-resistant plant begins to grow at a temperature of 5-6℃ and withstands a short-term drop to -4-8℃. Frosts in autumn do not harm the vegetable, but the keeping quality of root crops is reduced. Nevertheless, the roots of adult plants tolerate wintering in the ground well and in spring give early vitamin greens.

Soil Requirements
The vegetable can be sown on loose soils with normal or slightly increased acidity. Parsley grows well in both sunny areas and partial shade.

Potatoes, cabbage family, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers are preferred as its predecessors. It can grow on the same bed for several years without loss of yield, but it should not be planted again after other umbrella plants - cilantro, celery, dill, coriander, cumin, anise, and carrots - earlier than after 4 years.

The list of vegetables that can be planted after parsley is long - in fact, these are all crops except green ones.

Preparation and technology of sowing
The most common way to sow parsley is by seed. Since they sprout rather slowly, they use various options for accelerating this process - they stimulate the seed, germinate it.

A more labor-intensive option is forcing seedlings. It is possible for a leaf type of crop and allows not only to get fresh greens much earlier, but also to cut off its new crop up to six times per season. A similar result can be achieved if you plant parsley in a conveyor way - with an interval of half a month.

Root vegetables can be planted exclusively by seeds.

When to sow parsley
Any kind of parsley seeds can be planted in open ground both in autumn and early spring. Leaf varieties planted during the first two summer months will have time to sprout and yield. They will accumulate enough strength to survive the winter if the roots are left in the ground.

Root varieties are more demanding on sowing dates, the upper limit of which is the middle or the end of May, depending on the region, otherwise the root crop may not have time to gain weight and ripen.

Most gardeners prefer the spring sowing option: seedlings appear a little later than with winter sowing, but develop faster and more amicably. If you do not guess with the weather conditions, autumn seedlings may have time to germinate before frost and die when they occur.

Specific planting dates are differentiated by region depending on local climate conditions: in the south of the country, seeds can be sown in years with early spring as early as the end of March, and in the northern regions - only in the first half of May. You need to focus on the onset of stable temperatures above + 4-5ºC with a minimum possibility of frost not lower than -8ºC.

Garden preparation
It is advisable to prepare the soil for future beds with a vitamin vegetable in advance, in the fall. During digging, add to it:

organic fertilizers (mullein) at the rate of 5-7 kg per square meter;
mineral - potassium salt, superphosphate (25-30 g per square meter). You can replace them with ash, which is scattered on the site and embedded in the top layer of soil.
In the spring, before planting a vegetable, it is advisable to repeat the mineral dressing, enriching it with urea at the rate of 50 g per square meter. The soil should be loose: if the soil is clayey, river sand and sawdust are added to it.

Seed preparation
The seeds of the culture are rich in essential oils, and therefore germinate slowly. In addition, even their first class germinates by no more than 70%. Planting parsley with dry material allows you to get the first shoots 2-3 weeks after sowing, and seeds treated to speed up germination and germination will delight you with greens 2-2.5 times faster.

It is advisable to use one-year-old sowing material - its potential for germination is higher than that of fresh. The main methods of pre-sowing seed treatment include several stages:

soaking a few days before planting. To do this, they are wrapped in gauze or cotton cloth, impregnated with a slightly pink manganese solution and maintained in this state for two to three days;
after that, they are placed in the same form for a day in the refrigerator for hardening.
Whether it is necessary to use a soap solution to remove essential oils from the surface of the seeds is a moot point, but keeping them for 15 minutes in vodka before soaking will have a positive effect.

After normal soaking for a day, it is useful to expose the seed material to a growth stimulator (Epin, Ecogel and others). It should be noted that every 3-4 hours you need to remove it from the solution to ensure the flow of oxygen.

Seeds do not need to be disinfected: parsley plants are rich in essential oils that repel pests and help the vegetable resist infections.

If there is no need to accelerate the growth time, you can dry-sow the crop into the soil and wait for greenery two weeks later.

How to sow parsley
On the beds in the open field with seeds on the greens, it is correct to plant parsley in rows:

first, water the area with water (preferably warm) and loosen the top soil layer;
furrows are carried out (with spring sowing - 2 cm deep, in autumn - 6-7 cm) and seeds are sown at the rate of 0.5-1 g / sq. m. The distance between the furrows is 12-15 cm (more for root species, less for leaf species);
cover with a layer of soil, compact a little and water again.
When sowing in June - July, a third more seed is used for the same area, since it sprouts less evenly. It is convenient to place parsley beds between other, slowly ripening vegetables, in row-spacings 20-30 cm wide.

To speed up the cultivation, the sown beds are covered: first with polyethylene, and after the first shoots appear, so that they do not burn out in the sun, with a fabric material such as lutrasil. If you follow the agrotechnics of sowing pre-prepared seeds correctly, the friendly seedlings will delight you with their green appearance in a week.

Features of care
Parsley does not require much attention and care, but it needs to remove weeds that take nutrients from the soil and loosen the soil. Since the sprouts do not appear soon, the bed by this time may be overgrown with weeds. To avoid this, strips of newspapers are laid out between the rows and everything is tightly covered with a film on top.

As soon as shoots appear, the film and newspapers are removed. It is easier to care for weed-free beds, and it is easier for plants to gain strength.

Shoots are thinned out, leaving sprouts that look the strongest, in the amount of 60-70 pieces per linear meter. Before the procedure, the soil must be moistened, since the dried plants are not completely removed from the dried one, leaving the root in the ground.

Root species are grown in the same way as leafy ones, but the greens are not cut until the roots are fully formed. They are cut twice:

after the formation of two leaves - leaving one plant per 5 cm row;
half a month later, after the appearance of the 5-6th leaf, the weaker seedlings are removed again, leaving 10 cm between them.
Beds with perennial plantations of parsley, which are not subjected to annual digging, spud well in the fall, protecting them from frost. If seed collection is not planned, the stem with inflorescences is removed immediately.

Watering mode
Parsley responds gratefully to watering, but does not tolerate waterlogging well:

the first two weeks after their appearance, young shoots of parsley experience an additional need for moisture, increasing their green mass. More watering requires a vegetable in dry weather, when a lack of water causes yellowing and coarsening of the foliage;
leafy varieties like to be watered from a watering can with a sieve when grown - this way the surface air is more humidified;
Root species need moderate watering during the growing season until the end of August to produce fragrant fruits. At the end of summer, when root crops are gaining weight, they need intensive moisture.
In order not to burn the plants on a hot day, watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening.

top dressing
On fertile soils, leafy vegetable varieties can be fed twice during the growing season with a weed solution. To do this, a barrel or other container is half filled with grass, weeds, tops, topped up with water and covered with a lid or polyethylene. After two weeks, the fertilizer is ready.

To grow root parsley, it is enough to add ash once or twice: it is scattered on moistened ground between rows (after rain or heavy watering). When the green reaches a height of 10-15 cm, it is fed with a mixture of superphosphate, potassium chloride (each - 25 g) and ammonium nitrate (up to 15 g), diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water. In August, nitrogen fertilizers cannot be used when growing parsley, since it actively accumulates them in the root and ground parts.

Diseases and pests
The vegetable is susceptible to certain diseases - the fight against them is not difficult, but it is better to avoid exacerbations, using preventive measures:

white rot causes softening of the root crop, and then rotting. Sick specimens are destroyed. Irrigate the plants at the first symptoms with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture;
peronosporosis provokes drying of the leaves. As a treatment, treatment with copper chloride or Bordeaux mixture is used;
with rust, parsley leaves turn yellow, covered with brown spots. Treatment - spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid every 10 days until the signs of the disease disappear;
measures to combat white spotting are the same as with rust.
Insects can also harm the plant:

camping worms gnaw the leaves of the top, they need to be collected if possible;
carrot aphids suck the juices out of the sprouts. She is deterred by spraying the bushes with a garlic solution, carried out a couple of times in 3-4 days;
carrot fly worms harm parsley roots. A proven way to deal with them is to treat the soil under the bushes with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1:10).

Harvesting
The stalks of leaf parsley are cut as close to the ground as possible - no more than a third of their total number, so that the vegetable can quickly recover. If the grown raw material is intended for drying, watering of the plantations is limited two weeks before harvest. Root crops can be harvested in late autumn, but it is advisable to have time before the onset of frost.

Subject to the agrotechnical rules for growing vegetables, problems with growing parsley rarely occur. In general, this is an unpretentious and at the same time most valuable plant in terms of its vitamin qualities, endowing with fresh greenery almost all year round.

Root parsley is a constant inhabitant of vegetable gardens. This culture is cold-resistant and unpretentious. With little care, the summer resident provides himself with fragrant root crops for the winter.

Root spice improves the taste of soups, salads. From it prepare independent dishes. Seasonings for first courses based on root parsley are popular among gardeners. It is impossible to imagine a kitchen without the use of this fragrant plant.

The advantages of root spice are long and varied storage. It can be frozen, salted, stored in the basement. The spicy root will retain its taste and consumer properties.

Features of growing root parsley

Gardeners who grow leaf parsley will also cope with root parsley. But it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of culture:

  • the root crop prefers loose, breathable soils;
  • to obtain even underground fruits, agricultural practices (watering, fertilizing, loosening) should be observed;
  • root seasoning is cultivated in the garden, in the greenhouse, on the windowsill (for forcing greenery in winter).

Seed producers offer enough planting material. Varieties of fragrant root crops are popular among gardeners:

  • Productive (root length up to 20 cm, demonstrates resistance to diseases and pests);
  • Alba (grows up to 290 g, does not have fine hairs on the main root, is perfectly stored);
  • Final (root (underground) part grows up to 200 g, fruits are leveled, delicate taste is revealed in conservation);
  • Sugar (valued for the early ripening of the root part, grows up to 60 g, grayish-white color, sweet taste).
  • Eagle (Dutch variety, straightened roots, grows up to 140 g, valued for high yields and universal use of roots).

When purchasing seeds, gardeners evaluate seed maturity, root yield, taste, and uses.

Landing dates

Parsley root is a cold-resistant plant. Planting in open ground is permissible as soon as the soil warms up to 4 degrees Celsius. This usually happens immediately after the soil thaws. It is important not to miss planting dates: parsley needs a lot of moisture to germinate. Seeds will not germinate in dry soil.

In the spring there is a lot of work in the garden. You can sow a cold-resistant crop before winter. Root spice seeds will germinate well after the onset of suitable weather.

For planting, you should choose the time 2-2.5 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather. Seeds need time to swell. But they should not have time to germinate. Sowing is carried out only with dry seeds. With this method of planting material, it is recommended to take 30% more.

Selecting a landing site

To obtain the desired crop of roots, you need to correctly choose a place for the ridge:

  1. Parsley root prefers loose (moisture-permeable and breathable) soils. Sandy, soddy-podzolic and light loamy soils are ideal.
  2. The place should be well lit by the sun. In shaded areas, the roots grow small.
  3. The ridge should not be flooded: parsley rots easily.
  4. Landings need to be protected from cold northern winds and drafts. It is not bad to plant root crops on the south side of buildings.
  5. Pay special attention to predecessors. The root crop gives an excellent harvest after zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers. It is undesirable to plant after umbrella plants (carrots, parsley, celery).

It should be remembered: the seat must be prepared in advance. When planting a root crop in spring-autumn, with winter sowing - a month before.

Sugar root parsley: cultivation in the open field

Sugar - the most popular variety of root spice among gardeners. She is loved for early ripening, productivity and special (sweet taste). When growing in open ground, the following conditions must be observed:

  1. Before planting, it is forbidden to make compost or humus: the roots will coarsen and lose marketability.
  2. The soil should be filled with a mineral complex according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  3. Fertilizers should be applied when digging (on the bayonet of a shovel). At the same time, clean the ridge from weeds: they inhibit the root spice.
  4. Mark the rows at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Make grooves 2 cm deep.
  5. When planting in the spring, it is recommended to shed them with a warm solution of potassium humate.
  6. Plant the seeds at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Place 3 seeds per hole (to avoid the absence of empty spaces).
  7. Sprinkle with soil, tamp.
  8. To preserve moisture (during spring planting), cover the ridge with lutrasil.
  9. Parsley takes a long time to germinate. Landings should be regularly moistened over the nonwoven fabric.

After germination, one strong plant should be left. The rest needs to be weeded out.

Growing root parsley at home

Some gardeners use root parsley for forcing greens at home in the winter. In this case, it is necessary to observe:

  1. Temperature regime. Before germination, 4-10 degrees Celsius, then 15-20.
  2. Humidity. The soil should be regularly moistened. But it is not recommended to pour the plant: the root seasoning easily rots.
  3. Illumination. Under room conditions, root parsley needs to be illuminated up to 16-18 hours.
  4. Top dressing. Fertilizers are applied at planting. In a depressed position, the plants are fed after cutting with a mineral complex.

When forcing greens from the roots, there is a possibility of a flower arrow.

Sugar root parsley: growing in a greenhouse

Many gardeners are trying to grow parsley in a greenhouse or greenhouse. This requires free space. The advantage of Sugar - precocity. When sown in winter, the crop is harvested before the placement of the main greenhouse crops.

Usually Sugar is planted in an unheated greenhouse with an increase in radiation: at the end of January. In the event of a sudden cooling of the landing, it is recommended to cover it with dense lutrasil (60 g / square meter).

Features of care

Parsley is a hardy plant. But the gardener will have to provide simple care for the root spice.

Watering rules

The fragrant root tolerates a short drought. But the taste of the root crop deteriorates. Moisturize the ridge after the top layer has dried.

top dressing

Before planting seeds of root spice, a complex of mineral fertilizers is introduced into the soil. After the emergence of seedlings, it is recommended to feed them once with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, prepare an infusion of fermented grass:

  • fill the container with weeds without roots;
  • to fill with water;
  • close the lid and put in the sun;
  • after the start of fermentation, dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1: 8 and use it to feed parsley.

After the growth of tops by 10-15 cm, mineral fertilizers should be applied. It is more convenient to use soluble. Further feeding does not make sense: parsley will look for nutrients in the upper layers of the soil. It does not form beautiful even roots.

Possible diseases and pests of root parsley

Parsley is susceptible to some diseases:

  • peronosporosis (leaves are affected by spots, then the tops dry out);
  • white rot (roots get sick, they soften and disappear);
  • white spotting (spots form on the ground parts, then the tissues soften and rot);
  • rust (tops turn red and dry out).

Diseases arise due to violations of the rules of care. Subject to agricultural technology, gardeners get a harvest of healthy tasty roots.

Pests

The greatest harm to plantings is caused by carrot psyllid. She lays her eggs at the base of the root. The hatched larvae damage the plant.

The second pest is aphids. Ants are planting it. For the fight, anthills should be destroyed (in April) and the aphids should be washed off with a solution of green or tar soap.

From a carrot fly, plantings are sprayed with water with the addition of kerosene (a tablespoon per 1 liter). But with this method, the roots have an unpleasant odor and taste. Experienced gardeners get rid of the pest by planting onion and garlic next to parsley.

Harvest and storage

The time for digging up the roots of parsley comes in early autumn. They are carefully pry with a pitchfork. This tool least of all injures root crops.

The excavated plants are shaken off the ground and dried in the sun for 2 hours. This procedure destroys harmful bacteria.

Then the tops are cut off. If winter forcing of greens from the root part is planned, a stump of 1-2 cm is left. When laying for storage, the growth point is cut off along with part of the root crop. This will keep the parsley juicy.

In the refrigerator, the roots are stored in a perforated plastic bag. Some gardeners cover the root crop with wet sand and lower it into the cellar.

Harvest parsley retains its taste and nutrients when frozen. The roots should be washed, cut and put into a container or bag. In the freezer, root spice will taste great: the roots are ready to use within a year.

The herbaceous biennial parsley (Petroselinum) is a small genus that belongs to the Celery (Umbrella) family. This plant comes from the island of Sardinia. The first mention of it was found in the ancient Egyptian papyri: according to legend, this culture grew from the blood that flowed from the eye of Horus, the son of the god Osiris, he was torn out by the evil Seth. Under natural conditions, such a herbaceous plant is found on the Mediterranean coast. Root and leaf parsley is cultivated in southern Canada and the northern United States, and also throughout continental Europe except Scandinavia. The most popular among gardeners is root parsley, as it forms a root crop, and also gives greens.

Parsley is a herbaceous plant that can be annual or biennial. Its stem is erect, and the leaf blades are double or triple pinnate. The petals of the heart-shaped flowers are yellow-green or whitish, sometimes at the base they have a pale red tint. The fruit has an ovoid shape, while it is squeezed from the sides.

This crop is moisture-loving and resistant to frost. Seed germination is observed at a temperature of 1–5 degrees, while the seedlings withstand frosts down to minus 9 degrees. In this regard, in regions with mild, non-frosty winters in autumn, it is not necessary to extract the root of such a plant from the soil.

During the first year of growth, the bushes form a leaf rosette and a root crop that looks like a carrot, it is painted in pale yellow or white. And in the second year, the bushes produce seeds. Parsley roots have medicinal properties, they help maintain vision, heal wounds, strengthen the gums, and also stimulate kidney activity. They include salts of potassium, iron and phosphorus. Such a root crop is used as a spice, adding it to soups and brines, as well as to marinades during canning.

Leaf parsley does not form a root, but it has a well-developed and branched root system. The greens of such a plant are added to salads, and are also used as a spice for fish and first courses. Such greens are eaten not only fresh, but they are also dried and frozen, if such parsley is stored correctly, it will be able to retain its beneficial substances for up to 12 months. This culture is still widely used in cosmetology, as well as in traditional and folk medicine.

What time to plant

Parsley can be grown through seedlings or sown seeds directly into the ground, while the second method is more popular with gardeners. With the help of seedlings, such a plant is grown only in certain regions. Sowing seeds in open soil is carried out from mid to late April, and this can also be done in autumn, namely: starting from mid-October. In order for leafy parsley to be on the table throughout the summer, it is recommended to sow it in a conveyor way: 1 time in 15 days until the last days of July.

A suitable site for sowing should be sunny, while the soil should be loose, not very wet, light and saturated with nutrients. Best of all, such a culture grows on light sandy loam or loam with a pH of 6.5–7.0. For sowing parsley, experts do not advise choosing a site with a high occurrence of groundwater. If there is no other place for growing, then you need to make high beds. You can grow parsley in the area after the following crops: onions, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, potatoes, cabbage and cucumbers. Poor predecessors are representatives of the Umbelliferae family, for example: carrots, parsley, celery, fennel, coriander, dill, etc. However, parsley can be grown with them, for example, carrots and parsley, dill and parsley can be grown on the same plot, cilantro and parsley, etc. It can also be grown in the same area with cucumbers, legumes and tomatoes.

If the sowing of such a plant is planned for the spring, then the preparation of the site must be done in the autumn. If the sowing of seeds will be carried out before winter in autumn, then it will be necessary to prepare the site no less than 15–20 days before the day of sowing. For root (fodder) parsley, manure must be applied to the soil, but this is done about 12 months before sowing such a crop before growing a predecessor plant. Leafy (green) parsley grows well on manure. During the digging of the site in autumn, from 4 to 5 kilograms of manure (compost) per 1 square meter should be applied to the soil. If the soil is poor, then in addition to organic fertilizers, a complex of minerals is also added to it, but this must be done in the spring when preparing the site for sowing. If winter sowing of such a plant is planned, then organic matter and minerals must be added to the soil at the same time. Since dry seeds are characterized by very slow germination, they are recommended for 30 minutes. immerse in water, after which the seed is dried until it begins to crumble.

On the prepared site, grooves should be made, reaching a depth of 10–15 mm, while the width between them should be about 0.5 m. The grooves should be shed abundantly with tepid water, and after it is completely absorbed, seeds are sown. The grooves must be covered with soil, after which it is rammed. As a rule, the first seedlings appear after 15–20 days. In autumn, dry seeds are used for sowing, then the surface of the beds is covered with a layer of mulch (humus or peat).

How to sow parsley seeds in open ground is described in more detail above. But in some cases, such a plant is grown in seedlings. Before you start sowing, the seeds must be soaked in water, where they must stay for 24 hours, this will allow them to be cleaned of essential oils that slow down germination. Then the inoculum must be placed in a moistened cloth. After white sprouts appear, the seeds are sown, after drying them to flowability. The picking of seedlings should be carried out after they begin to form two real leaf plates, for this, peat pots are used. After 8 weeks have passed since the sowing of the seeds, root parsley seedlings must be planted in open soil. It is planted together with pots, and, depending on the variety, a distance of 7–15 centimeters is kept between the bushes. When planting seedlings of leaf parsley, a distance of at least 20 centimeters should be observed between them. The distance between the rows should be about 0.5 m. In this case, the preparation of the site must be done in advance.

In order to grow parsley indoors, it should be sown in exactly the same way as described above, for this they use seedling boxes filled with biohumus soil mixture, as well as coconut fiber, which is laid out on top of the drainage layer. Seed material needs pre-sowing preparation. To do this, it is placed in a container with water for two to three days, which must be replaced twice a day. At the same time, 2 hours before sowing, the seeds should be disinfected by immersing them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds need to be deepened into the soil mixture by no more than 5 mm, then the surface of the substrate is covered with loose soil, while the layer thickness should be about 10 mm. Then the box is removed in a dark place. In order for the seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, the containers should be covered from above with a film or glass, however, at the same time, the crops should be regularly ventilated, and condensate should be removed from the surface of the shelter in a timely manner.

After the first seedlings appear after 15–20 days, the container with the crops must be transferred to the windowsill. When the shoots grow up, they need to be thinned out, while the distance between the plants should be at least 40 mm. The optimum air temperature for growing parsley is from 15 to 20 degrees. If the room is colder, then the growth of the plants will become slower, and in the heat the seedlings will dry out. In order for seedlings to grow normally, they need a long daylight hours. If it is shorter than necessary, then the parsley will need additional artificial lighting; for this, a fluorescent lamp must be placed at a distance of 0.6 m. After about 6 weeks, the first harvest can be harvested. When the height of the branch reaches 10-12 centimeters, if necessary, it can be plucked and used for cooking, while part of the stem with 1/3 of the leaf blades should remain in the container.

For indoor cultivation, it is recommended to use early varieties, in this case, the first harvest is carried out half a month earlier than when growing late-ripening and mid-ripening varieties. Most often, such green varieties are grown on the windowsill as: Astra, Russian feast, Fitness, Beads, Green pearls, Morning freshness, Gloria, etc.

This method of growing parsley allows you not to wait for the appearance of seedlings. In the last days of October, before the frosts begin, the parsley bush must be removed from the ground with roots about 50 mm long and about 40 mm wide. To disinfect the seedling box, you need to use a strong solution of potassium manganese, at its bottom it is necessary to make a drainage layer, on top of which soil mixture for violets is poured. In it, almost close to each other, the roots of this plant, which were dug out in the garden, should be planted, while only the apical buds should rise above the surface of the substrate. The soil mixture should be compacted a little and watered well, after which the container is transferred to an unheated veranda or to an insulated balcony. Plants need to be provided with moderate watering, and after the appearance of green sprouts, the container is transferred to a well-lit and warm (about 20 degrees) room. Young plants on a cloudy day will need additional lighting. After the active growth of green mass begins, watering should be made more frequent and plentiful. If everything is done correctly, then by the New Year holidays, fresh fragrant greens will grow.

When growing parsley indoors, it needs to be systematically moderately watered. The substrate in the containers should not dry out, and stagnation of water in the soil mixture should not be allowed. Water such a plant every day with a moderate amount of water at room temperature. After a crust appears on the surface of the substrate, it is removed, for this it is necessary to loosen the soil mixture.

If this crop is grown from seeds, then the seedlings will need liquid top dressing, for this they use environmentally friendly fertilizer, it should be applied no more than 2 times in 4 weeks. To do this, you can use organic or mineral complex fertilizers, which have proven themselves well.

Growing such a crop in open soil is quite simple. To do this, the bushes need to be thinned out in time, weeded, fed, watered, and also loosened the surface of the garden. In spring, while parsley is still very weak, it needs special protection from weeds, because they can drown out any cultivated plant. In this regard, parsley will need to be systematically weeded, while weeds should be removed both from rows and from row spacing. It is recommended to carry out this procedure 24 hours after it has rained or the garden bed has been watered, and along with the removal of weeds, the soil surface must also be loosened. Loosening improves the aeration of the root system of the bushes.

When grown in the garden, this crop will need to be systematically watered. At the same time, you need to pay attention to the fact that root varieties are less demanding on watering compared to leaf varieties. Forage parsley is distinguished by its drought tolerance and therefore will need to be watered approximately 2 times throughout the growing season. And green varieties need more watering.

By the state of the leaves on the bushes, you can understand whether the plants need watering. Parsley should be watered in the early morning or in the evening when the sun goes down. For irrigation, you need to use not cold water, its temperature should not be lower than the air temperature. Therefore, water is left in the sun to heat. And if tap water is used, then you need to wait until it settles.

Green varieties of parsley need more nitrogen than root varieties, so top dressing is applied 2 times during the growing season, for this, saltpeter is used (5-6 grams of substance per 1 square meter of plot). Forage parsley needs potassium and phosphorus to a greater extent, therefore, in spring, a complete mineral fertilizer should be used to feed it, while in August, 7 grams of superphosphate and 5 grams of potassium salt should be added to the soil per 1 square meter of land. If fertilizer containing nitrogen is applied to the soil in autumn, this can cause the accumulation of nitrates in the root crop.

What to plant in the area where parsley grew

The place where such a crop was grown is not suitable for the cultivation of representatives of the Umbelliferae family. The next time parsley and other crops related to it can be grown on this site only after 4–5 years. The area where parsley was previously grown is great for planting onions, potatoes, peas, garlic, tomatoes and beans.

Diseases and pests of parsley with photos and names

parsley diseases

Parsley is not highly disease resistant. Most often, such a culture is affected by the following diseases:

When a plant is affected by such a fungal disease, a loose coating of almost white color forms on the surface of its aerial parts. As the disease develops, black dots appear on this plaque, which are the fruiting bodies of the fungus. In such bushes, the reproductive ability is greatly deteriorating. This disease actively develops in wet weather, if there are sharp fluctuations in temperature. In order to combat such a disease, after the parsley crop is harvested, the site must be cleared of plant debris, which should be destroyed. Then the soil is treated with Bayleton's solution, and the instructions must be strictly followed.

This disease contributes to the development of chlorosis on the edges of the leaf plates of the lower tiers of plants. Over time, the edge of the foliage turns red, and then the entire plate acquires this color. In the affected bushes, there is a decrease in the turgor of root crops, which is why they are stored worse. The causative agents of such a disease are spread by cicadas, while the first signs of stolbur appear in the last days of July or the first - in August. For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to destroy the cicadas that have settled on the site in a timely manner, remove weeds in time, regularly dig the site and treat the bushes with herbicides.

The defeat of such a disease can occur both in the store and in the garden. When the disease is just beginning to develop, its symptoms are similar to the "black leg": the bush has a lesion of the root collar, as the disease develops, the entire stem is affected, and this happens relatively quickly. Then the bush turns yellow and dies. When the entire aerial part of the parsley is affected by black rot, the disease can spread to the root system. The causative agents of the disease most often penetrate into the microtraumas on the bush (cuts, cracks or scratches), where it begins to actively develop. For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to adhere to the rules of crop rotation, and the site must also be cleared of plant residues that should be destroyed. After the height of the tops of the bushes is 10–12 centimeters, they should be sprayed with Homa's solution (40 grams of the substance per 1 bucket of water). In the middle of the summer period, near the root crops, it is necessary to evenly distribute the Barrier agent on the surface of the beds (1 tablespoon of the substance is taken per 1 square meter of the plot).

This fungal disease affects leaf petioles, foliage and shoots. In the middle of the summer period, brown spots form on the lower leaf plates, after a while they become lighter, but at the same time their dark border does not change its color. As the disease progresses, the upper leaf plates are also affected. Over time, the foliage turns yellow and dries out, and the petioles break. As a result, the yield of parsley suffers greatly. At the end of the growing season, all plant residues must be removed from the site, and they are burned. Then they dig the site. For prevention purposes, before sowing, the seed must be heated at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. Carry out 2 treatments on the leaves in the first decade of July with a break of 1.5 weeks with a solution of Energen (20 drops of the substance are taken per 1 liter of water).

As a rule, parsley is affected by such a disease in the first summer weeks. In diseased bushes, spots of a brownish-red color are formed on the underside of the leaf plates, which eventually merge with each other. As a result, the foliage turns yellow ahead of time, dries up and loses its taste. To cure a diseased plant, it will need the same treatment as with white spotting.

On the surface of the shoots and foliage of the affected bush, brown or pale yellow spots are formed, reaching about 0.6 cm in diameter and having an irregular shape. With increased humidity, a light gray coating appears on the surface of the spots. In diseased bushes, there is a lag in growth, as well as yellowing and drying of the foliage. The disease actively develops during the day, if the weather is humid and warm, as well as on foggy nights and if heavy dew falls in the morning. If the disease is just beginning to develop, the area will need to be sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%). If necessary, such spraying is carried out several more times with a break of 10-12 days. The last time to spray the bushes is necessary no later than half a month before harvesting.

Parsley can also be affected by such diseases as: felt and white rot, peronosporosis (downy mildew), asters jaundice, etc.

Parsley pests

Most often, the following pests settle on parsley bushes:

This small pest feeds on plant sap. Its larvae also feed on parsley juice, while they wrap themselves in foliage, and the bush becomes like a terry bush. To get rid of the psyllid, you need to spray the bushes 2 times with Iskra, Fitoverm, Iskra Bio or Karbofos. Such treatments are carried out in May, when there is a mass appearance of adults, as well as in July after the formation of larvae.

This small worm reaches only one and a half millimeters in length; it arranges oviposition in the tissues of this plant. Such a pest feeds on parsley juice at almost any stage of development, while in the affected parts of the bush there is a lag in growth, curvature and death. For prevention purposes, when preparing the seed for sowing, it must be heated in a thermos with hot water (about 45–50 degrees) for a quarter of an hour. When the parsley crop is harvested, the site will need deep digging. You also need to follow the rules of crop rotation.

carrot fly

The length of such a pest is only half a centimeter, it has a green color with a sheen. This fly prefers damp places. If she settles in a bed of parsley, then the bushes will lag behind in development, and the foliage will turn purple-red, then yellow, and, in the end, it will die. If parsley grows near carrots, then the likelihood that such a fly will settle on the bushes increases greatly, because this pest is attracted to the smell of carrots. To mask the strong smell of carrots, it is recommended to treat its bushes with a solution consisting of 1 bucket of water, 1 tbsp. l. red or black ground pepper and 1 tsp. liquid soap. And you can also cover the surface of the soil between the rows with a layer of a mixture consisting of sand and naphthalene (10: 1). Since such a pest climbs into the ground for wintering, after harvesting in autumn, it is recommended to carry out deep digging.

This pest is omnivorous. As a rule, he appears on the site in the last days of June, while in 1 season he can give up to 10 generations. These insects are found on the wrong side of the leaf blades, stems and flowers, and they suck the juice from the bushes. The affected plant stops growing and dies. Another thing to consider is that aphids are considered the main carrier of various incurable diseases. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to remove all weeds in the garden immediately after it appears, cut and destroy the yellow parts of the bush, and after harvesting, it is imperative to deep dig the site. If, nevertheless, the aphid settles on the bushes, then they will need to be sprayed with any soapy solution, for example: 40 grams of laundry soap can be taken for 1 bucket of water. If necessary, the bushes are sprayed 3 or 4 times with a break of 5 days.

Types and varieties of parsley

It has already been said above that gardeners cultivate 2 types of parsley, namely: leaf and root. Leaf parsley has two varieties, namely: curly and smooth. They differ from each other only in appearance. All varieties of this plant are divided by maturity. The most popular varieties of parsley will be described below.

  1. Gloria. This early variety is distinguished by its yield, it is intended for cultivation in open ground, as well as in a greenhouse. The socket is low, and the leaf plates are large and long. Such parsley is used fresh for food, as well as for preparing preparations for the winter.
  2. Bogatyr. This productive variety is very fragrant, it grows back quickly after cutting. Long-leaved large leaf plates are painted dark green and have a triangular shape. The duration of maturation is 70–80 days.
  3. Hamburger. Such a variety, created not so long ago, has an average height and with fragrant delicate foliage of a rich green color. The variety ripens in 75-90 days. It can be eaten both dried and fresh.
  4. Carnival. The variety has a high yield. Fragrant long-leaved medium-sized leaf plates have a dark green color. Foliage grows relatively quickly after cutting. After the seedlings appear, it will take no more than 60 days before harvesting.

Still very popular among gardeners are such varieties as: Italian Giant, Green Crystal, Appetizing, Fragrant Wall, Rosava, Green Carpet, etc.

  1. Mooskrause 2. Such a German variety, distinguished by its compactness, has strongly corrugated fragrant leaf plates of a dark green color. After cutting, young leaves grow no longer than 40 days. This variety is drought and frost resistant.
  2. Bravo. Bushes have vertical long shoots, it is quite easy to harvest from them. Very fragrant strongly corrugated leaf plates have a rich green color.
  3. Aster. An early ripe variety with a high yield has corrugated leaf plates, which are part of dense rosettes. Foliage after cutting grows in a fairly short time. Such parsley is intended for cultivation both in the greenhouse and in the open field.
  4. Esmeralda. This grade of average term of maturing with quickly growing foliage after cutting. The bush can weigh up to 50 grams. In the outlet, there are from 25 to 30 short-leaved curly leaf blades.
  5. Breeze. The height of the leaf rosette of such a vigorous variety is about 0.75 m, the ripening time is about 80 days. One bush can weigh about 60 grams. Tender leaves remain fresh for a long time after cutting.
    1. Sugar. Such an early ripe variety is distinguished by productivity. Dense whitish-gray root crops have a conical shape, they reach about 0.3 m in length, and about 65 mm in diameter, their weight is up to 60 grams. Very tasty white pulp has a light yellow center. From the moment the seedlings appear to the onset of technical ripeness, it takes from 85 to 100 days.
    2. Alba. A late maturing variety with a high yield. Very tasty root crops weigh about 0.3 kg. The advantages of this variety also include the absence of lateral roots in root crops, as well as their excellent keeping quality.
    3. Bordovicskaya. In such a late variety, white root crops have a shape similar to carrots, they weigh about 0.2 kg. The pulp is fragrant and white. If root crops are stored correctly, they will have excellent keeping quality.
    4. Harvest. Medium ripening variety is resistant to frost and disease. After the seedlings appear, they reach technical maturity in 130 days. The length of juicy root crops is about 20 centimeters.
    5. The final. The variety has a medium maturity and is very productive. The length of the root crops is about 23 centimeters, their weight is up to 0.2 kg, and the shape is similar to an elongated cone. They have high taste.

    In addition to these varieties, popular are such as: Konika, Lekar, Eagle, Good Morning, Tops and Roots, Berlinia and Spicy.

    Parsley properties: benefits and harms

    Useful properties of parsley

    Fresh parsley leaves contain a large number of trace elements and vitamins that the human body needs. Interestingly, already in ancient Egypt, such a culture was worth its weight in gold. Today, such a plant is also quite popular, it is used in medicine, cooking, and also in cosmetology.

    Few people know that the composition of the greenery of such a plant includes the same amount of carotene that is contained in carrots, while there is about the same amount of vitamin C in it as in lemon. 50 grams of parsley contains the daily rate of ascorbic acid. The composition of greens includes vitamins A, C, B1, B2, B12, PP, as well as folic acid, fatty acids, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, potassium and calcium. Thanks to these vitamins and elements, parsley has useful properties, namely:

  • helps to improve the work of the adrenal glands and the thyroid gland;
  • improves metabolic processes in the body;
  • helps to strengthen blood vessels;
  • has an anti-inflammatory effect;
  • helps to strengthen the gums;
  • helps to improve oxygen metabolism and stimulates the brain;
  • helps control satiety and appetite;
  • favorably affects vision;
  • is effective in the treatment of diseases of the genitourinary system and nephritis;
  • assists in overcoming depression, as well as in restoring strength.

The decoction, infusion and juice of such a culture have healing properties. The juice is used in the treatment of heart, respiratory and eye diseases. During the treatment of diseases of the optic nerve system, a mixture of parsley and carrot juice (1: 3) is very effective. A mixture of garlic and parsley has a powerful diuretic effect, it is most often used to normalize high blood pressure. In addition, the products, which include garlic and parsley, help stabilize cholesterol levels, and also have an antiviral effect, remove toxins from the body, reduce high blood clotting, and are also used to prevent cardiovascular diseases.

The extract of this plant is used to make a cream with a whitening effect, because such an herb helps to whiten the skin and lighten age spots and freckles. This plant is also used to eliminate edema, treat bruises and insect bites, as well as to improve the scarring of fistulas and ulcers.

A decoction, oil, extract and infusion of such a medicinal plant are used to treat women's diseases, for example, pain during menstruation, menstrual irregularities, and they also help to improve the mental and physical condition during menopause. Parsley remedies help men eliminate pain from inflammation of the prostate gland, and they also have a general strengthening effect.

To prepare a decoction of parsley, you need to take 2 tbsp. l. finely chopped roots of such a plant and combine them with 1 tbsp. freshly boiled water The mixture should boil for only 1 minute, then the container is covered with a lid and left to cool. The decoction is recommended to drink 3 times a day before meals, 1-2 tbsp. l, it helps with anemia, malaria, prostatitis, intestinal disorders, increased gas formation and is used to strengthen the immune system.

Contraindications

Parsley can be harmful if eaten in very large quantities. It contains myristicin, an overdose of which causes headaches, hallucinations, nausea, overexcitation, weight loss and muscle cramps. From taking funds made from parsley, it is better to refuse during pregnancy, as well as for patients with oxaluria, urolithiasis, inflammation of the bladder and nephritis. During breastfeeding, parsley is also recommended to be excluded from the diet, as it contains spicy essential oil.