Faucets

Russian folk embroidery. materials

Studying folk embroidery, I understand that it is necessary to understand individual symbols and their combination. In other topics, I talk about individual patterns, and here - about their combinations. The folk embroidery patterns of Russia, our North, are amazing. Their combinations, simple schemes of folk embroidery give rise to whole stories!

EMBROIDERY "RUSSIAN CROSS-HARMONY"

Scheme of folk embroidery "Russian cross - harmony"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

male symbol "cross"
female symbol "rhombus"

For whom: for a woman who wants to strengthen her existing marriage.

Meaning: harmony.

Feature of this embroidery: activity of the earthly masculine force.

effect on a woman: harmony in the family, well-being in relations with a man, increasing one's own activity, energy, assertiveness, if necessary - the call of the child's soul, a safe birth.

Effect on a man: harmony in the family, well-being in relations with his wife, activation of the vital center "yarlo", which is responsible for vitality.

EMBROIDERY "RUSSIAN CROSS - CALL"

Scheme of folk embroidery "Russian cross - call"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

male symbol "cross"
female symbol "rhombus"
a sign of well-being and the connection of male and female principles "sown grain"

For whom: for a woman who wants to find her betrothed and make the right choice.

Feature of this embroidery: the predominance of female energies, both in the earthly and celestial spheres, the male energy in this embroidery is “heavenly”, that is, we are talking about a man who is kindred in spirit.

effect on a woman: bodily energy, increasing attractiveness, raising the ability to foresee and choose, launching into the space of a call for a man - narrowed.

FOLK EMBROIDERY OF RUSSIA "RUSSIAN CROSS - LOVE"

Scheme of folk embroidery "Russian cross - love"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

male symbol "cross"
female symbol "half rhombus"

For whom: for a woman who wants to ignite the love of a man, and for a man who wants to be loved.

Feature of this embroidery: the predominance of "earthly" energies, both male and female, and we are not talking about the birth of a child, but about earthly love between a man and a woman.

effect on a woman: bodily energy, increased attractiveness, increased emotional power over a man, the revival of feelings in a woman that "spread" on a man. The action is greatly enhanced if the same ornament is applied to the hem of the sweater.

Effect on a man: bodily energy, increased attractiveness, increased emotional power over a woman, the revival of feelings in the man himself, which "spread" on a woman.

SCHEME OF FOLK EMBROIDERY "BEST SHARE"

The name "The Best Share" is not a traditional name, but it well reflects the essence of the ornaments located here.

Scheme of folk embroidery "The best share"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

"Half-repya - Ancestor"
female symbol "Rhombus"
female symbol "Heavenly Deer - Ancestor"
sign of the Goddess - Mother, Mistress of fate, Great Makosh

For whom: for a girl and a girl with a wish for safety in her parental family, for a woman who wants to preserve and increase what she has.

The meaning of Slavic patterns: request - confidence in a better share for the future

Feature of this embroidery: in the scheme of folk embroidery, the predominant presence of divine forces: ancestors from the mother's side (the symbol "Heavenly Deer - Ancestor") ancestors from the father's side (the symbol "Orepiy"), the presence of the Goddess of Fate Makosh - all this is next to the earthly rhombus, symbolizing the woman - the petitioner .

effect on a woman: harmony in the family, well-being, well-being, respect for others.

CHARM EMBROIDERY "WELFARE"

The name "Prosperity" is not a traditional name, but it well reflects the essence of the ornaments located on this embroidery scheme.

Folk embroidery of Russia "Prosperity"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

Sign Sun - Virgo, Vesnyanka, giving joy and life
Signs of the Gods bringing gifts from Heaven
Sign of the Mother Goddess - Cheese Earth, bestowing well-being
Sky Cloud Sign - Deer

For whom: for an unmarried woman, for a married woman who wants a new level in life, security, peace and respect

Feature of this embroidery: embroidery, gently influencing the situation, sets in motion the heavenly forces, which begin to work for wealth and tranquility. The heavenly patronage of the Goddess Mother - Cheese Earth creates a comprehensive patronage, the rest of the signs support this ancient Slavic magic

Effect on a woman: a sense of calm, awareness of one's beauty and attractiveness, calm acceptance of well-deserved well-being.

FOLK EMBROIDERY OF RUSSIA "ARMOR OF ancestors"

The name "Armor of the Ancestors" is not a traditional name, but it well reflects the essence of the ornaments located here.

Folk embroidery of Russia "Armor of ancestors"

Symbols of folk embroidery:

sign "Hooks - Horses"
sign "Orepiy - Ancestor"
God Perun "Perun's color"

For whom: a boy and a man in order to protect against the influences of the external environment

The meaning of Slavic patterns: the sign of Perun, the Patron of warriors in a light tone, means the heavenly patronage of this God, the presence of earth-colored horses means the rapid approach of this patronage; the reason for patronage is Orepius - the Ancestor, that is, the man is protected by the power of his ancestors.

Feature of this embroidery: the rapid approach of the heavenly patronage of Perun and the Ancestors, since it is the horses harnessed to the divine chariot that are earthly in color.

Action on a man: protection from the adverse effects of the external environment, both physical and energetic.

SCHEMES OF FOLK EMBROIDERY OF THE RUSSIAN NORTH

For a long time we have been asked to show patterns of folk embroidery. We have collected them from the northern villages and finally share this knowledge with you.

All this is the northern protective cross, the most powerful protective symbol. You can embroider it with the usual cross, or better - with a northern type-setting (counting) seam.

Remember the main rule of protective embroidery: everything should be natural, from the fabric and threads to the needle. Bone or brass needles are best suited for this.

Since ancient times, women have decorated their outfits with various embroidery, and the Moscow stitch was used to finish the edge of the product. Initially, only wealthy people could afford such an ornament, and embroidery, most often, was carried out with gold threads. And only from the 18th century did it enter the life of various segments of the population, and so it began. Different countries have their own embroidery patterns. Very interesting Russian folk embroidery, it is usually divided into two types.

Urban embroidery;
Peasant embroidery.

Vladimir embroidery

Girls from poor rural families decorated their dowry with embroidery (tablecloths, towels, etc.). In the same way, gifts for future relatives were also made. But city needlewomen embroidered at their own discretion, tried to follow European fashion, trying to look like a French lady ..
Russia is a huge country, so Russian folk embroidery had its own characteristics in each region and even district. It is customary to divide the territory of Russia into 2 large groups depending on the method of embroidery:

Northern lane;
Central Russian strip.

The northern strip includes the Vladimir, Arkhangelsk, Novgorod, Vologda, Ivanovo and adjacent regions. Separately, it is customary to single out Vladimir embroidery.

The center of the Central Russian strip is Moscow. There is even a Moscow seam, which is used to process delicate fabrics.

Surprisingly, Slavic embroidery, which was done mainly with a cross, was used as a talisman. This is a very old embroidery. Each of its details was filled with a special meaning. The ornament is very varied. Often they embroidered a woman who was surrounded by deer. It was Rod's mother. Very often it was embroidered on wedding clothes or on the clothes of babies to protect them from all sorts of misfortunes. But the ornament of Russian folk embroidery Lelnik meant protection from all misfortunes.

Interestingly, when embroidered with a red thread on a white fabric, it was a symbol of the earth, which absorbed the life-giving energy of the sun.

Features of embroidery in different parts of Russia

Chuvashia

They were very kind to embroidery in Chuvashia, it was their distinctive national feature. For embroidery in this style

Chuvash embroidery

threads of three primary colors were used: black, red and white. Each of them had its own meaning. Red denoted the desire for a new, good, white symbolized purity, naivety, and black served as a kind of frame.

At the same time, Chuvash embroidery was carried out without special devices that could facilitate the work. The girl simply took the fabric in her hands and embroidered on it. In the process of work, a large number of seams were used, in combination, which gave an interesting ornament. Interestingly, the threads had to be dyed by ourselves, so the process of obtaining the finished product is quite laborious, and Chuvash embroidery is not so simple. It is based on a variety of geometric shapes that have their own meaning. Most often they embroidered with a simple seam, a cross, a double-sided seam.

Karelia

Karelian embroidery

Separately, it is worth mentioning the needlewomen from Karelia. They also spent quite a lot of time on embroidery. The ornament embroidered by them originally had a religious purpose, and only much simpler Karelian embroidery became a kind of art. Most often, when embroidering, red is used here, which looks spectacular on white clothes. Very often animals and plants are embroidered, they are the center of the composition.

Karelian embroidery is used to decorate linen, cutlery, tablecloths. Products of Karelian embroiderers are very popular not only in Russia, but also in European countries. More than once they were honored there with the highest accolades. This ancient embroidery has undergone various changes, but has not lost its popularity so far.

Mari El

If Chuvash embroidery abounds in red, white and black colors, then here the basis

Mari embroidery

take the red thread. At the same time, they embroider mainly on homespun clothes. The girl mastered this art quite early. The patterns were quite diverse, these were geometric shapes, and plants, and animals. They embodied the hopes of man, his dreams. The embroidered trees had a special meaning, they were a certain protection for the family. Therefore, Mari embroidery contains so many of them.

And now Mari women have not forgotten all the subtleties of embroidery, they decorate pillows, capes, towels with patterns. Very often, Mari embroidery is used to decorate the clothes of pop stars. Red was considered the main color, and this has been preserved to this day.

Kaluga

Surprisingly, the inhabitants of this small town embroidered in a special way, which made it possible to single out their embroidery as a separate type, which was called Tarusa embroidery. She also has a second name "cutouts". A whole artel was created, which embroidered paths, tablecloths, towels in this way. Later it grew into a factory.

Tarusa embroidery

When embroidering, only linen threads were used. There was also its own technique, color interlacing and white stitching. Tarusa embroidery was the main one in Kaluga and in the territory adjacent to it. Trees, plants, whole pictures were embroidered on the product. A distinctive feature was that such embroidery does not have a wrong side. Blouses with birds, trees, flowers embroidered on them are very interesting. Real craftsmen embroidered with white threads on a white mother, and those who were not familiar with the basics of embroidery could not understand for a long time how this was possible.

And Tarusa embroidery originates in a small town near Kaluga Tarusa. It was there that this embroidery technique was born, and the name itself came from there.

Video: patterns in Russian folk embroidery

Ornaments of the Slavic peoples and their designation

Embroidery around the world

Not only Russia was famous for its embroidered products, but also craftswomen from various countries were able to achieve incredible success in this business. Ukrainian and Belarusian embroideries are the most similar to Russian ones.

Belarus

The closest Belarusian embroidery to Russian. Here they also use the Moscow seam to process a product made of thin fabric. The main distinguishing feature is a strict ornament. Canvas products were decorated: shirts, tablecloths and towels. The ornament is quite strict, geometric figures predominate. Bulgarian cross-stitching is very suitable for decorating towels.

Ukraine

Ukrainian embroidery

Do not forget that Ukrainian craftswomen create unique embroidered masterpieces. More often they embroidered on the sleeves of shirts and blouses, collars, hems. They loved to decorate towels and pillowcases with embroidery. Very often embroidered with a cross. A beautiful ornament can be seen on the collar of the shirts.

Each Ukrainian region, as well as in Russia, has its own distinctive features in embroidery. In the Poltava region, white threads are preferred. Very rarely use red and gray. The rest of the colors are not used at all. In the Kharkiv and Donetsk regions, they mostly embroider with a cross. In woodland people like to embroider with red threads on a gray-white background.

Ukrainian Kyiv region is known for plant motifs (grapevine, hops). Black and red threads are popular here. But in Podolsk, the technique is more complex, the color scheme is more diverse.

But the Ukrainian wedding suggests that the clothes must be embroidered with branches of viburnum, as it symbolizes the continuation of the family. Or do . Each plant embroidered on clothes has its own meaning. Lily means innocence and purity. Hops - youth. Peacock - life energy. But the swallow is considered the most favorite bird. Very beautiful embroidery with a Bulgarian cross.

Embroidery in European countries

Do not forget that in Europe there are many supporters of embroidery. Moreover, it was they who at one time were trendsetters for embroidered clothes. At the same time, their embroidery differed significantly from Russian and Ukrainian.

One of the most beautiful and interesting is Italian embroidery. But it also has another name associated with the place of its greatest popularity - Florentine embroidery. It uses threads of various colors, patterns are formed from zigzags that resemble flames. The embroidery turns out as if drawn, as different shades of the same color are taken, which gives the composition a natural look. At the same time, they embroider with one type of stitches - straight vertical. That's just you can vary its length.

At one time, the clothes of courtiers and persons in power were embroidered in the Italian style. She was very fond of the Medici family. And along with this, Florentine embroidery has gained popularity among ordinary citizens.

A characteristic feature of such embroidery is the complete coverage of the product with stitches. It should not have a single empty space. Everything is filled with colored threads, a Moscow seam is used to process the product, as it is very thin.

Some people think that it would be more correct to speak Hungarian. Since the origin of embroidery is unknown, Hungary may also be its ancestor. Initially, beautiful fabric was used for embroidery, which came from the east. The threads were also of high quality. Ordinary people could not afford such pleasure.

french embroidery

Another country that loves embroidery is France. This trendsetter could not stand aside, and Florentine embroidery firmly entered the life of the French. But at the same time, they also formed their own direction in embroidery.

This is a very delicate embroidery, they do not use a cross here, the main stitch is a knot. It still looks very much like a miniature rose. It can be embroidered separately, for example, a small bud, or you can embroider the whole pattern with a French stitch. In order for French embroidery to learn neat, you need to know one feature. When one stitch is embroidered, it should be secured, but if there are several, then this can be omitted, the thread follows the next stitch from the wrong side.

Indian embroidery

Embroidery of the peoples of the world

India

But not only in Europe and Russia they embroidered, the embroidery of the peoples of the world is very interesting. For example, Indian embroidery is considered one of the most ancient. Until now, the tradition of embroidering patterns on wedding dresses has been preserved there. But a wedding shawl begins to be embroidered at a very early age, because the patterns adorn it all. And this will take more than one year. As for, you need skill and patience.

China

No matter how beautiful Hungarian or Indian embroidery is, the oldest Chinese embroidery is. Masters from China have long been known for their skill. If they start doing something, they try to achieve the ideal. Such is the peculiarity of their mentality.

Previously, only wealthy people could buy the works of Chinese masters, as they were quite expensive. Chinese embroidery has a distinctive feature - the use of silk thread. Brazilian embroidery also uses silk threads. They are very thin and the fabric itself is very delicate, for its processing it is best to use a Moscow seam.

Suzhou embroidery

Each Chinese province has its own embroidery patterns. So, Suzhou embroidery requires perseverance. She is a real work of art. For work, thin needles and silk threads are taken. Every detail is carefully executed. Silk threads shimmer, creating a beautiful effect. And when the lighting changes, the hue also changes. That's very beautiful.

Suzhou embroidery is very ancient, over 2000 years old. Embroidery is done with satin stitch. Experienced craftswomen could embroider on both sides. Suzhou embroidery is not just two-sided, as no knots were visible during work. Different ornaments were embroidered on different sides. But they had the same shape. Here you have to be an artist to change the drawing itself, but keep its outlines.

Not only Suzhou embroidery glorified China, there are many provinces that had a unique embroidery technique. Chinese embroidery from the Hunan province is known for its spirituality of work. All designs are bright, rich in colors and close to reality. If animals are embroidered, it seems that they will now run, and the birds will fly. You can embroider not only with satin stitch, but also with a cross. Then Chinese embroidery will look a little different.

Brazil

Brazilian embroidery

Surprisingly, the Brazilians did not stay away from this needlework. Brazilian embroidery also uses silk threads. When working, several types of stitches are used:

twisted seam;
typesetting stitch;
lavalier.

Each of them is used to embroider a specific pattern. The elements that Brazilian embroidery contains are very similar to real ones, they have volume.

Like many, Brazilian embroidery has distinctive features at the heart of embroidery are flowers, which were embroidered with special long needles and artificial silk. But Chinese embroidery prefers natural silk.

More accessible, but no less beautiful Jacobin embroidery. Plants, animals, original patterns are also depicted here, but only more affordable woolen threads are used. But most of all Jacobin embroidery contains flowers.

Jacobin embroidery

The pattern is textured, this is due to the variety of seams, they embroider with a cross, and satin stitch, and other seams, as well as the peculiarity of woolen threads. Jacobin embroidery gained its distribution due to the low cost of woolen threads, which in no way reduced the quality of work.

It has Jacobin embroidery and the second name "kruil". It comes from the name of yarn wound in a special way.

You can talk endlessly about the different directions of embroidery. Each of them has its own characteristics. And in order to master new technology, you will have to learn a little. Modern cross-stitch is quite simple, and suitable for beginners. Having learned it, it will be possible to master more complex techniques, for example, embroidery with a Bulgarian cross. Old Russian embroidery is very beautiful, and it is also not difficult to learn, but here it is worth remembering that each ornament has its own meaning.

Next post A lesson in volumetric embroidery using the buti technique

Russian embroidery is distinguished by an unusual variety of stitches and embroidery techniques. Each region (and sometimes district) had its own embroidery techniques, ornamental motifs, and color schemes.

Various types of seams used in Russian embroidery can be divided into two large groups:

TO first group include embroideries performed by counting the threads of the fabric;

Co. second group- along a free, pre-drawn contour.

The seams of the first group are called countable, seams of the second group - free.

In addition, seams can be transparent And deaf.

Counting seams were performed by counting the threads of the fabric along the weft and warp, hence the names of the seams. These include a half-cross or painting, cross, set, goat, pigtail, counting surface, etc.

In modern patterns, other seams are also used - forward needle, pigtail, oblique surface.

In ancient times it was used double-sided seam painting

Example

He made both stripes with geometric ornaments and complex plot compositions depicting a horse, a leopard, a bird, and a man. The contour of the pattern was trimmed with thin, running in different directions, stitches. The silhouette image looked like a delicate lace pattern.

Cross appeared later than the seam painting, approximately in the first half of the 14th century, when drawings from city albums began to spread. To perform it, seam patterns, painting and line embroidery were used. The cross seam is performed much faster than painting and attracts with its density, grainy texture and bright decorative effect. Towels, valances, clothes were successfully embroidered with a cross. This embroidery found great application in the Tambov and Ryazan regions. Apart from simple cross there is also double cross, bilateral And unilateral, in the Tambov region they embroider bilateral cross , framed by four stitches, this is tambov cross .

simple cross

double cross

double sided cross

one sided cross

Tambov cross

The cross is the most common type of embroidery. It can be performed both according to the canvas and according to the pattern, the fabric must be with a uniform weave of threads. Cross-stitch is used comprehensively: for finishing clothes or its details, for decorating table and bed linen.

Kit

"goat""pigtail"

Counting surface

Seams of the peoples of the Volga region - "skew stitch", asterisk, spiral

"skew stitch"

"Slanting stitch" — deaf one-sided counting seam.
It is performed with oblique, tightly adjacent to each other or spaced apart at some distance stitches of different inclinations and lengths.

"spiral"

"star"

Transparent seams perform line work on a pre-prepared grid. Such seams are called a line, which is superimposed on a mesh obtained by pulling fabric threads in two directions - along the weft and along the warp. Stitch patterns are not located on the surface of the fabric, but, as it were, change its structure.

Line patterns

Blind seams works on the whole fabric. They are called embroidery. In addition to the stitches already discussed above for embroidery, there are also embroideries in which two types are combined: embroideries along a free contour and counted stitches, for example, the Orlov list, Vladimir stitches, where the cores of flowers embroidered in an arbitrary circle are filled with satin stitches of geometric shapes.

Vladimir seams

For patterns drawn with the free movement of the hand, motifs of a plant nature, animals and humans are used in a very conditional interpretation. Such patterns are made with contour and satin stitches.

Contour seams include: tambour seam, stalk seam, pigtail, goat, lace; to smooth - white smooth surface, Vladimir seams, Alexander smooth surface, Russian smooth surface and satin sewing.

chain stitch

Among the many types of Russian folk art, embroidery has always occupied an important place. Seals are everywhere. There was no need to look for special devices, and fabric, needles and threads were in every home. Embroidery decorated clothes and household items: curtains, tablecloths, towels, valances, aprons, hats, scarves, skirts, dresses. Embroidered products in everyday life quickly grew old, wore out and disappeared. The study of embroidery, as a separate art form, began only in the middle of the 19th century, therefore, in museums, the earliest samples belong only to the 18th century.

Material and color

The climatic features of our country do not allow mass-growing cotton, so the main sources for making fabrics were flax and hemp. They were woven into cloth. A thin bleached canvas served as the basis, and threads of linen and wool were used to embroider patterns. In the 19th century shirts and head towels were embroidered with woolen threads. In a number of places, embroidery with wool preceded embroidery with other materials.

The main color of Russian embroidery is red with many shades: from dark lingonberry to orange. The hue depends on the material of the threads and fabric (linen, cotton, wool, etc.), on the paints used for them (mineral, vegetable, animal). Along with red, preference is given to tones of blue, green and yellow. Black is not typical for Russian embroidery. Only in the Tambov and Voronezh regions this color is traditionally used in sewing.

The preference for red does not limit either the choice of other colors or the gradation of their shades. Often white was used or two-color combinations were made. The overall tone of embroidery at the same time always remained joyful and optimistic.

Plots and motifs of ornament.

The variety of Russian embroidery motifs is great. However, images of a bird, a horse and a tree are more often found in ornaments. This choice is due to the legends and beliefs of the ancient Slavs, who speak of a heavenly tree and a bird-sun sitting on it. The horse also symbolized the visible movement of the sun.

Image birds most often used in Russian embroidery. Birds are found as part of complex plots, or they make up separate patterns from birds: in the form of a row where they follow one after another, they often make up compositions with a tree (bush, plant or rosette) and with a female figure in the center; often they are simply turned towards each other and close with their beaks or vice versa with their tails.

Horse not as popular as a bird motif, but also quite common. The image of a horse with a high, proudly curved neck is similar to the images of folk clay sculpture. One of the common motifs is horses on the sides of a tree or plant.

Vegetable world occupied a prominent place in the ornament of Russian embroidery of the 18th-early 20th centuries. The tree was the center of the composition, to which animals and birds were turned; the tree was the object of worship of riders or horsewomen. Sometimes a tree is enclosed in a special building, like a small temple or chapel, which emphasizes its special significance. Plants and trees were embroidered in a strict geometric style with two or more particularly long branches, often roots on a triangular base, which can be considered as generalized roots.

Among the flowers, roses in a basket are especially frequent, realistic, natural scarlet colors. Roses noticeably crowd out other floral motifs from the floral ornamentation of Russian embroidery, in particular the tulip. This, apparently, is connected with the development of a common European ornament, in which the rose motif spreads in the 18th century.

So, I told you quite a bit about the distinctive features of Russian embroidery. This information is very superficial and does not include the whole variety of ornaments, patterns and types of embroidery that were observed in the 18th-early 19th centuries. That's all for now, I hope you enjoyed it. The next part is devoted to the appearance of cross-stitch in Rus'.

The list of references that I used is given below. Of course, now there are more modern sources of information, but I liked these books for their great detail and thoroughness of presentation:

Maslova G. S. "Ornament of Russian folk embroidery". M., 1972
Durasov G.P. "Fine motifs in Russian folk embroidery". M., 1990
Boguslavskaya I. Ya. "Russian folk embroidery." M., 1972

Abundance in the collection of the Russian Museum of Peasant Embroidery of the 19th - 20th centuries. if there are unique and original works among them, it allows us to present all the richness and diversity of the existing local variants of this art, as well as the common features of folk sewing in the North, middle and southern strips of European Russia. In Rus', women of all social strata have long been engaged in embroidery. In the 19th century, when embroidery crafts arose in a number of regions, men also joined this skill.

Front detail. Master N.P. Kozlov-Amelyushkina
1910s Mtsensk district, Oryol province.

The embroideries of the southern Russian regions are similar in style. For them, a geometric ornament with the motif of a rhombus and its derivatives is typical. Even the images of the human figure are subject here to geometrized forms. Compositions of patterns are built by repeating or alternating elements in a horizontal row, diagonally, less often vertically. Embroideries are usually made using the technique of colored interlacing or line-stlani, which gives the surface of the fabric a grainy rough texture. In color, along with pure white embroidery and a combination of white and red, the addition of blue, green, black threads or the bright multicolor of aniline wool is characteristic.

Typical examples of Kaluga, Oryol, Tula embroideries are aprons - "curtains" - an indispensable part of the local women's costume, where the embroidery is located in a wide border along the hem or covers the entire plane of the fabric with thick stripes. However, with a general similarity, in each region, and sometimes the region or A group of villages had their own unique style and character of sewing, manifested in motifs and sizes of patterns, in texture and a special method of execution, in favorite color combinations.

Towel.
1900s Bezhetsky district of Tver province.
State Russian Museum

In central Russia, expeditions of the Russian Museum revealed a peculiar area of folk sewing in the former Teblesh volost of the Bezhetsky district of the Tver province "~. Joyful in color, ingenuous works of the Teblesh people were performed at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, which affected the decorative fragmentation in the transmission of traditional embroidery images of birds, in the brightness of color, including the full sound of colored wool.

Valance.

State Russian Museum

Valance. Fragment.
Mid 19th century Kostroma district of the Kostroma province.
State Russian Museum

In the middle of the XIX century. one of the most interesting centers of peasant embroidery developed in a number of villages of the former Kostroma district of the Kostroma province "4. Here, the plots of popular prints were freely interpreted in the ornament. On the valance from the museum collection, images of two pairs of Sirins with female heads and a colorful bird torso are embroidered, they are surrounded by bushes (" poplars [raisins]"), herbs, flowers growing from flowerpots. The ornamental inscription conveys the text from the Chronograph. Following the clear drawing of the picture, the craftswoman executed the composition on the fabric with a tambour stitch-pigtail, the flexible lines of which made it possible to freely transfer the contours of the figures into sewing, in places as if colored with wide stitches of the “top”.

End of the towel.
1820s Onega district of the Arkhangelsk province.
State Russian Museum

Towel. Master S.F. Savvin
End of the 19th century. Kirillovsky district, Novgorod region
State Russian Museum

In the embroidery of the Russian North, due to the peculiarities of the development of the region, the ancient layers of folk ornament are more preserved"5. On household items and clothes, characteristic "ancient motifs" are often found, which attracted the attention of scientists as early as the 1920s. Executed with an ancient double-sided seam with red threads on linen, these embroideries brought to us the echoes of the images of ancient Slavic mythology. They are fanned by fabulousness, and their artistic expressiveness consists of a clear compositional construction, balance of parts, an amazing rhythm of a linear pattern with a characteristic mutual parallelism of lines. Such patterns, as a rule, were made on ritual items: wedding towels, headbands, hay shirts.

Head towel.
Second half of the 19th century Shenkursky district of the Arkhangelsk province.
State Russian Museum

Towel.
1900s Ustyuzhensky district of the Novgorod province.
State Russian Museum

Northern embroideries with ancient motifs have a relative stylistic unity, independent of the place of their creation. But at the same time, in a number of regions, embroiderers showed a predilection for certain ornamental plots, narrow sewing methods, and shades of red color of threads. So, for the embroidery of the Kirillovsky district of the Novgorod province, the “boat” pattern is typical, and in the villages of the Ustyuzhensky district of the same province they often embroidered a “fish” - an image of a bird with miniature chicks along the contour, filled with rows of small checkers.

Valance. (Detail.)

State Russian Museum

Valance. (Detail.)
19th century Kargopol district of Olonets province.
State Russian Museum

Over time, ancient motifs and compositions have changed, transformed, many new ornaments have arisen on their basis" ~. Today, it is quite difficult to understand the elements of some of them. ornamental rebus, mysterious figures of people, horses, riders and deer heads with branched horns.

State Russian Museum

Valance. (Fragment.) Master F.V.Antonova
1870s. Luga district of the Petersburg province.
State Russian Museum

And on a survey from the Luga district of the St. Petersburg province, the image of a double-headed eagle turned either into a fabulous flower, or into a spider sprouted with plants.

At the end of the XIX - beginning of the XX century. some centers of peasant embroidery became crafts that supply embroidered products to the market, for the needs of the city buyer. At that time, the "krestetska line" - a through embroidery imitating lace, the center of production of which was the Krestetsky district of the Novgorod province, received particular development. this ancient art.

Soul warmer.
XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province.
State Russian Museum

Soul warmer. Fragment
XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province.
State Russian Museum

The traditions of ancient Russian gold embroidery developed in separate established centers until the beginning of the 20th century. In the 19th century Nizhny Novgorod province was a large area of gold embroidery business. Here, the prosperous Volga peasantry adorned festive clothes, scarves, and hats with embroidery. On a velvet shower warmer, a pattern characteristic of local folk art with flowers, leaves and bunches of grapes growing from a flowerpot and intertwined with bows spreads along the sleeves, floors, back, revealing the features of the cut of this elegant sweater. Through the dense pattern, the cherry color of the background barely shines through.

Handkerchief.
First half of the 19th century.
State Russian Museum

On a thin muslin scarf, light bouquets of flowers lie in a border, decorate the corners. The combination of marsh and black threads on a pale-yellow background gives the embroidery an exquisite austerity.

V.V. Grumkova. Towel "Quadrille".
1973. Ryazan
State Russian Museum

V.N. Noskova. Cover detail.
1949. Mstera, Vladimir region.
State Russian Museum

Despite the fact that today embroidery is not such a popular type of folk art as it used to be, but even today it develops in the established traditional centers. Along with the Sacrets, Ryazan is a major center for hand sewing, where contemporary artists are successfully developing the traditions of local color embroidery. The village of Mister in the Vladimir region is famous for two types of embroidery. Here, the art of the “white surface” reached an equally high level with its jewelry development of the surface of patterns with the help of “banners” - patterned fillings with miniature seams and bright elegant embroidery with the “Vladimir top”, large stitches of which, like brush strokes, convey both purely ornamental and plot - thematic compositions.

AND I. Boguslavskaya

Literature:
1. I.Ya. Boguslavskaya. Russian embroidery - In the book: Russian folk art in the collection of the State Russian Museum. L., 1984.
2. M.N. Gumilyovskaya. Line and embroidery. M., 1953;
3. I.Ya. Boguslavskaya. Tebleshan folk art. "KSIE". Issue. 38. M., 1963.
4. G.S. Maslova. The main features of the ornament of Yaroslavl and Kostroma embroidery. - Messages from the timing. Issue. 11. M., 1976.
5. V.A. Gorodkov. Daco-Sarmatian religious elements in Russian folk art. - Proceedings of the State Historical Museum. Issue. 1. M., 1926.
6. S.I. Butylina. About the cross line. - In the book: Creative problems of modern folk art crafts. L., 1981.
7. S.M. Temerin. Russian applied art. Soviet years. Essays. M., 1960.