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Three-key light switch - diagrams and do-it-yourself connection rules (instructions with photos and videos). Three-gang light switch

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Today we want to tell you how to connect a three-gang switch using the lighting in the kitchen, bathroom and bathroom as an example.

Before you start installing a three-gang light switch, you need to purchase materials:

Power 3- and 4-core cable with a core cross section of 1.5 mm² (for example, manufactured by KZ KABEX). If protective grounding is not connected to the shield or the housings of the fixtures to be installed are made of plastic, you will need a 2-core cable without a grounding core (for example, manufactured by KZ "KABEKS");
. connection box with a diameter of 100 mm;
. a mounting box in which a 3-key switch will be installed;
. 3-key switch;
. mounting and fastening accessories (clamps, markings, terminals, etc.);
. lamps.

In addition, in order to mount the three-gang switch and perform cable routing, you must have the following tools:

A tool for making "grooves" in the wall (a wall chaser or grinder with a diamond disc and a puncher with a flat blade, as well as crowns for round holes);
. screwdriver with a set of nozzles or a set of screwdrivers;
. screwdriver with indication or tester (multimeter);
. mounting knife and pliers or a tool for stripping insulation;

When performing electrical work, it is important to follow the safety rules. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to turn off the voltage: we move the automatic switch lever (AB) to the lower position and check the presence of voltage. To do this, with an indicator answer, we touch the unconnected terminal of the machine. If the voltage is off, then the LED in the screwdriver will not light up. If the indicator lights up, then there is still voltage, and this may indicate a malfunction of the machine. In this case, it is necessary to contact a qualified specialist who will replace the protective device.

When using the tester, you must first set the switch to measure AC voltage (denoted by "~ V" or "ACV") and set 750 V. After that, with one probe we touch the terminal of the circuit breaker, and with the other - to the neutral bus. If the value “0” on the indicator has not changed, there is no voltage and you can proceed with the installation, if the value is above zero, you need to contact a qualified specialist who will replace the protective device.

After making sure that the power is not supplied, you can proceed to the next stage - the preparatory construction work. Using a wall chaser or a grinder and a puncher, vertical and horizontal special grooves are first made - strobes, and holes are also made for installing junction and mounting boxes. It should be noted that it is recommended to install a three-gang light switch at a height of 0.9-1.5 m above the floor. Also, when choosing a place where a 3-key switch will be installed, the following factor must be taken into account - access to the switch should not be hindered by an open door.

After the preliminary work has been completed, you can start laying the cable to connect the three-gang switch. We lay a 3-core cable from the switchboard to the junction box, leaving a margin of approximately 10-15 cm at the end. It is necessary to leave a margin so that in case of damage it is possible to reconnect, connect or branch the cable cores.

Electrical connection

Using a construction knife, pliers or a special cable stripping tool, we strip the cable, and connect its cores according to the following scheme:

Circuit breaker terminal (phase) - white or natural (gray) color conductor;
. free terminal of the zero bus (working zero) - a core of blue (light blue) color;
. free terminal of the grounding bus (grounding) - yellow-green conductor.

In the junction box, the sheath and insulation are also removed. For ease of recognition, it is recommended to mark the cable cores with special markers. Marking is best done like this:

Gray or white core (phase) - marking "L"
. blue core (working zero) - marking "N";
. yellow-green conductor (grounding) - marking "PE".

Wiring diagram of a three-gang switch and its installation

To properly connect a three-gang light switch, you will need a 4-core cable with any color of cores, except for yellow-green (for example, produced by KZ KABEX, manufactured in accordance with GOST 31996, with white (gray), brown, black and blue insulation) .

From the junction box to the place where the three-gang switch is supposed to be installed, we lay a 4-core cable in the strobe in this way: we clean the sheath and cable cores on both sides, and for ease of recognition of the core we mark:

White (gray) core - marking "L" (main phase from the switchboard to the switch);
. brown core - marking "L1" (phase for the first lamp);
. black core - marking "L2" (phase for the second lamp);
. blue core - marking "L3" (phase for the third lamp).

Before starting work, you need to decide how to connect a three-gang switch. To do this, look at the back of the switch. On the back side, a three-gang switch connection diagram is indicated, from which you can understand which terminal to which cable should be connected. Most often, a three-gang switch is connected as follows: we connect a white (gray) wire marked “L” to the upper terminal of the switch, and wires marked “L1”, “L1” and “L3”, respectively, to the lower ones. After connecting the cable cores to the corresponding terminals, the 3-key switch can be fixed in the mounting box using the switch tabs or special screws.

Connecting lighting fixtures

To connect luminaires that will be controlled through a three-gang light switch, you will need a 3-core cable (for example, manufactured by KZ KABEX, manufactured in accordance with GOST 31996, with white (gray), blue and yellow-green insulation).

From the junction box to the place where the first lamp is supposed to be installed, the above cable is laid in the gate, as well as in the pipe installed in the ceiling. For pulling the cable in the pipe, it is recommended to use a galvanized cable with a polymer coating. After that, it is necessary to strip the cable on both sides and mark the cores:

White (gray) core - marking "L1" (phase of the first lamp);
. blue core - marking "N" (zero);
. yellow-green conductor - marking "PE" (grounding).

After fixing the lamp, you can connect it. If the conductors of the lamp wire are multi-wire, then they must first be crimped with ferrules. After that, you can connect:

. blue cable core - lamp wire of the same color (blue or light blue);
. yellow-green cable core (grounding) - a special bolted connection on the luminaire body or a yellow-green luminaire wire;
. white (gray) wire - the remaining wire. Most often it is a wire with black or brown insulation.

The connection of the remaining fixtures is carried out in the same way as the first fixture, with one difference - we mark the white (gray) wires as “L2” and “L3” (luminaire phase 2 and 3, respectively).

After we have completed the laying and connection of the fixtures, we return to the junction box, in which the conductors with the same markings must be grouped and connected using soldering, welding or terminal connectors (for example, Wago self-clamping or screw terminals).

If you do not have grounding, or the lighting housings are made of plastic or other non-conductive electrical material, then the three-gang switch connection diagram remains the same. However, in order to connect, cables from a residential earth (3-core) must be replaced with 2-core cables, for example, a cable.

After all the work has been completed, a frame and keys are installed on the switch mechanism, and lamps and shades are inserted into the lamps.

The video, which is attached at the beginning of this article, clearly shows the connection of a three-gang switch and three lamps.

"I began to receive letters with additional questions on this topic. Apparently there I did not write and draw very clearly. Therefore, I decided to publish an additional article based on these questions, where I consider in detail two different connection schemes for a 3-key switch with a socket.

Both schemes I met in my practice. In one, a junction box is used, where all the cores are twisted, and in the other, they are not used and the twists are located in the switch block itself.

Wiring diagram for a 3-gang switch without a junction box

In this version, a junction box is not used and all wires go directly into the switch box with a socket. If you dismantle the old block, then eight strands of different wires will stick out of the wall. Schematically, I drew this situation in the photo below.

How to be here if all the veins are of the same color?

First you need to de-energize this line. Then we carefully straighten all the wires and leave them so that the stripped ends do not touch each other.

Now we need to find the incoming 2-wire wire, from which this unit is powered and power is supplied to the lighting. To do this, we apply voltage to a de-energized line and look for a "phase", checking each core in turn with an indicator screwdriver. "Phase" will be present only on one core. As soon as it is found, it is better to immediately de-energize this line again and mark the found wiring with electrical tape.

Then, along this "phase" conductor, we look for its second core (the wire is 2-core). It will just be the incoming "null" conductor.

So! You found "L" and "N" coming from the switchboard. There were six cores sticking out of the wall, i.e. three 2-wire wires. Just they go to three lamps. One for the kitchen, one for the bathroom and one for the toilet.

In each of these three wires, one core will be "phase" and the other "zero". In principle, the luminaire does not care which contact "L" and "N" will come to. Therefore, from each wire that goes to the lamp, we take one core and connect them to the "zero" core, which comes from the shield. We have already found it. From this connection, it is necessary to apply a "zero" to the socket contact, which is without a standard jumper to the switch block. Thus, we brought "zero" to the outlet and transferred it to all three lamps. It remains to deal with the phases.

We connect the found single "phase" coming from the shield to the second contact of the socket. Let me remind you that a regular jumper to the switches should also go from this contact. It transmits the "phase" to the common contact of the switches.

Now the remaining cores from the three wires that go to the lamps are connected to three free contacts of the switch block. What is no difference. If it matters to you which key should turn on, then you can experiment and connect the wires to the desired contacts.

The disadvantage of such a scheme is the large twisting of the "zero" conductors, which will interfere in the switch block with a socket.

Wrote a lot of text that is difficult to understand. Therefore, for a better assimilation of the material, I attach below a photo with a drawn diagram.

Connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket with a junction box.

Here, after the dismantling of the old block, five wires will stick out of the wall. This version of the scheme will be simpler than the previous one. It is also much more common.

In the photo below, I schematically drew all the veins.

Here we also start work with the search for a phase. It will also be on only one core out of five.

We de-energize, carefully straighten the wires, apply power and use the voltage indicator to look for the "phase". As soon as it was found, then we similarly find the incoming "zero" from it. They can be plugged directly into a power outlet. "N" - to a free contact, "L" - to the contact, about which there is a jumper to the switches.

The remaining three cores are connected to three free contacts of the switch. When the keys are switched, the “phases” will run through the closed contacts to the lamps and their bulbs will light up.

Only before all work in the circuit with a junction box, it is necessary to determine what breaks in your apartment with a switch - "zero" or "phase".

The "phase" should break, but unfortunately it often occurs that the "zero" switch breaks. If you have the second (not correct) option, then a “phase” will come from the junction box to the lamps and therefore zeros must be applied to them from the switch. In such a situation, in a socket with a block of switches "L" and "N" are interchanged.

I think that these explanations are enough to supplement the article "Scheme for connecting a three-gang switch with a socket". If not, then ask questions in the comments. I will try to explain in a different way.

Don't forget to smile:

An old mechanic instructs a young one:
- Despite all the complexity and "tricks" of modern machines, in reality, all problems can be solved with the help of two things: WD40 and electrical tape. If something should move but doesn't move, use WD40. If it's the other way around, wrap it with duct tape.

Without a switch, it is impossible to turn on the lighting fixtures, so ease of use depends on the correct installation of this simple device. If there are usually no problems with a single switch, then the wiring diagram for a triple switch sometimes causes difficulties - then a multi-track chandelier or combined lighting will not be able to fully work. Without basic knowledge of the electrical circuit diagram, it is difficult to correctly connect a triple pass switch or other electrical devices, and it is important to understand this in more detail.

Home lighting control

The switch is one of the simplest devices for controlling lighting in the house. However, when arranging the electrical wiring in the house on your own, it is important to eliminate all possible errors in connecting the switch in order to ensure efficient power supply to lighting fixtures and other mains-powered devices. To date, several types of switches have been developed - automatic, walk-through, single-key and multi-key. In order for each of them to work correctly, it is important to know the connection diagram and the principle of operation.

The main types of switching modules:

a switch with a presence or motion sensor;
a single or one-button walk-through switch or switch;
switch with indicator;
double or two-gang passage switch;
one-button switch;
two-gang or double switch;
three-gang or triple switch;
circuit breaker;
switch with night illumination;
dimmer or dimmer.

Each type of switch has its own specifics. It is difficult to give unequivocal advice when choosing a type of switch, but they are all designed for certain functions. For example, if the lighting control device has 3 keys, respectively, it is intended for a multi-track chandelier, which turns on in 3 stages - for 1 bulb, for 2-3, or it lights up entirely. It is very economical and convenient, so as not to unscrew unnecessary light bulbs. And the walk-through switch is designed for long corridors and stairs, so that you can use one module to turn on the lighting at the beginning of a long passage of the corridor, and at the other end the second module will turn off the light.

Most switches by design are very simple devices, they have:

the outer part of the box with a switch key;
internal, where the network is closed.

If you do not delve into the details of the operation of the switches, then visually they differ in the number of keys for switching the lighting;

single;
double;
triple.

Triple switches are used:

1. To control one complex lighting fixture (ceiling chandelier).

2. To control different types of lighting from one point, such as LED strip and sconces in the bedroom.

3. To turn off the lights in different rooms from one point, such as bathroom, hallway and toilet.

4. For advanced lighting control, when a triple pass switch is included in the control system for different types of lighting fixtures.

A single switch is installed at the entrance to a room or house, and sometimes it is mounted in another room. For example, it is very convenient to turn on the pantry and kitchen from the hallway or corridor. Such a switch is enough to control one light bulb or low power lamp.

The simplest wiring diagram for a simple switch:

The double switch is also used to control the lighting of 1-2 light fixtures of moderate power in a small room. Usually it is used in living rooms - nursery, bedroom, living room, kitchen. Such a switch for a divided bathroom is very convenient - the bathroom and toilet are switched on in the middle. Such a switch can control 2 groups of lighting devices - a double-switched ceiling chandelier, a lampshade and a sconce, a chandelier and a floor lamp, etc.

The simplest connection diagram for a two-gang switch:

The triple switch is the most convenient and multifunctional, since it regulates the operation of a triple inclusion chandelier or the operation of 3 different groups of lighting fixtures. It is most convenient for turning off 3 different rooms from one point. In a complex lighting design, such a switch can work according to the “half-wall-ceiling” diode lighting scheme. In addition to houses and apartments, three-key switch boxes are used to control lighting:

in industrial premises;
in warehouses;
in office premises.

Triple switch wiring diagram:

How to choose the right switch

Once upon a time, switches were push-button and only single, but today the most common are 1-, 2-, and 3-key switches. In Europe, to combine a larger number of keys with a common frame, I combine several 2-key switches. On the American continent they produce boxes with more than 3 switches, in South Korea they followed suit - there are modules for 6 keys, and each has its own color indicator so as not to confuse the switches. The backlight of European switches is not always backlit, most often only a 1-key box has it, but this is very convenient when looking for it at night.

1. Feed-through switches differ from simple switches in a circuit diagram - one and the same closed circuit can be opened in different parts of the corridor. Thanks to this, you can come to the house at night, turn on the light on the stairs, go up to the top floor and from there turn off the switches of any floor after you. More than anything else, switches are no different from ordinary switches. However, when buying, it is important to know this so that you do not inadvertently purchase a triple switch instead of a three-gang switch, although they are visually different. It is for this that a connection diagram is necessarily printed on the packaging of imported goods or explanations are made on the inside of the switch box.

2. Dimmers (dimmers) have a specific function - they do not just turn on the light, but also adjust its brightness. When there is no point in bright blinding lighting, then a small percentage of the backlight is left. To select a dimmer, it is important to take into account the total load of the switch, so it is customary to buy them with a power reserve. For example, for a three-arm ceiling-mounted chandelier with paws of 75-100 watts, a dimmer switch with the number 300 W is enough.

3. Sometimes they confuse a switch with a diode backlight and a control switch with an indicator. Outwardly, they are similar, but they have a different purpose and scheme of work. A diode lamp at night will indicate the location of the switch in a dark room or when descending stairs. But the indicator has a different functionality - a glowing light at the control switch indicates whether the device is turned on. Such switches are used to find out if the light is on in a remote room - in a garage, basement or summer kitchen. The indicator is not turned on when the auxiliary room is dark - no need to go outside in winter at night to make sure.

4. Switches with a protective cover are used for:

swimming pools (indoor and outdoor;
bathrooms;
combined bathrooms;
saunas or steam rooms;
to control outdoor lighting fixtures.

Everything is thought out in them to counteract the increased load in terms of air humidity. They are not afraid of the stream of Veda, if the water tap breaks, or the splashes of swimmers in the pool. To do this, inside the box, the working elements are protected by rubber or plastic protection. Of course, you should not specifically water such a switch with water pressure from a flexible shower to check the reliability, but in case of accidental splashes, you can completely rely on their work.

5. An interesting device is an anti-vandal switch for public places, which are made of high-impact plastic or alloy. This is a conventional switch with a "reinforced" box, and when properly installed, it is difficult to smash, break, set on fire or knock down with a heavy object. This is provided for large shopping centers and banks, so that attackers do not take advantage of the fragility of the structure for criminal purposes.

Attention: But not only the boxes of anti-vandal switches are made of metal and especially durable plastic, but also control devices for lighting devices of exclusive series. They are designed in such a way that they cannot short-circuit and cause a fire even in an emergency, for example, when a door explodes.

How to choose the best quality switch

Reasons for a broken switch:

poor contact on the contact plates - sparks and heats up;
unreliability of the box and wiring connection;
small deformations in the plastic box may crack;
key fastening defect - the plate may fall off or sink.

Tip: Carefully inspect the purchased product, check:

complete set, according to the instructions;

marking, physical quantities (voltage and current strength);

compliance with the required purpose (dimmer, switch, indicator, backlight);

the presence of instructions with a diagram and a check (you can exchange defective goods).

Only after that you can leave the store with a new switch and engage in the installation and connection of the switch. You will also need a tool:

pliers and wire cutters;
voltage indicator;
Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
screwdriver

The simplest way to install a triple switch

Before starting the installation of the triple switch, prepare the tool, turn off the breaker and sort out the wiring on the wall where the 3-gang switch box will be stopped.

A bundle of 2 wires with 3 cores and 1 three-core wire - it is important not to confuse where the phase is and where the zero phase is. These 2 wires are phase, but there may be other options that differ from this standard. The purpose of the wires must be determined using a voltage indicator - a phase wire is placed on the switch, if it is not yet clear how to connect a triple switch. Remember that you also need to install a socket if it is missing.

The zero phase is brought to the lighting device, and the switch itself gives a phase break. But even when it is connected at a break in the zero phase, the circuit also works. It is better to mark phase leads after checking with an indicator. The operation of phase beams can also be checked using a conventional incandescent lamp when there is no indicator. It is enough to take a cartridge with the wires out and close it to an obvious result.

When the lamp glows at full heat, this is a phase break, the pure glow of the lamp burning is zero-phase. When the lamp does not turn on at all - hitting 2 phases or 2 zeros. If in doubt, check everything again. 2-wire wires are connected to the lamp, and a 3-wire wire is connected to the junction box, where the phase and zero, and the ends with zero phase are brought together under the screw on the switch housing box. Next is the connection of 3-phase wires leading to the lighting device.

How to connect a triple switch: wiring diagram

Attention: Remember that the triple switch regulates the operation of lighting fixtures or lamps in different rooms. It is important not to confuse anything, otherwise the rightmost key will have to turn on the room on the left or vice versa!

Installation must be carried out only according to the wiring diagram of the triple switch. Zero - directly to the lamp, phase - to the switch.

Tip: When connecting yourself, you can save on calling a specialist, installing a switch box, a lamp and an indoor socket. But if you are having difficulty installing the socket, grounding, and the wiring diagram of the triple switch itself, use the help of an electrician. It is also worth installing a special transparent shield around the switch so that the wallpaper does not get dirty by hand.

In our time, when electricity is becoming more expensive every day, when almost everyone is concerned about the problem of saving electricity, the question arises more and more often how to save without leaving the comfort zone.

For the rational use of electricity, many different methods and devices have been invented, one of which is the use of two and three-gang switches.

What gives the connection of such a release in terms of energy savings? In fact, a lot.

Home use model

In the vast majority of cases, a person uses an excessive amount of lighting sources, which is two or more times the real need.

If we stop lighting extra light bulbs, this will save from 10 to 30% of all electricity consumed.

On the other hand, living in conditions of insufficient lighting is uncomfortable, because. and bright and decorative lighting is still necessary.

For this purpose, a track-key switch is used, which is most often connected to control the main, additional and decorative lighting.

In fact, the key for turning on the main lighting is most often used, the rest are only “on occasion”.

On the one hand, such a connection scheme gives significant energy savings, and on the other hand, it allows you to stay in the comfort zone, turning on additional and decorative lighting if necessary.

Electronic circuit

Consider the connection diagram of a three-gang switch (Fig. 1).

Fig.1 Switch connection diagram

Six wires come to the junction box from light sources (from lamps), three of which are interconnected and then connected to the neutral wire from the switchboard (working zero).

The remaining three wires from the junction box are sent to the device, where they are connected to its outputs.

From here, from the junction box, a phase is connected to the release (it is common to all three light sources).

Now it is clear that when one of the contacts in the switch is closed, one or another lamp lights up.

How to connect?

Terminals for connecting a three-gang switch

In fact, the specified device from behind looks like this:
Here you can see that it is drawn on the case where the phase fits and where you need to connect the wires coming from the lamps.

You need to connect a three-gang switch in such a way that with different combinations you get a different lighting effect.
For example, if you connect a chandelier with three lamps in such a way that one lamp lights up from one key, two from the second, and an additional light source, for example, a wall sconce, lights up from the third, then you will get 7 different combinations of lighting your room

Switch with socket in one housing

Separately, it is worth dwelling on such a moment as connecting a three-key release with a socket in one housing.

In the case of such a connection, you will significantly save your time on installation, because. the wires in this case are concentrated in one place.

Connecting a switch with a socket

The wiring diagram itself is slightly different from the one above.

As can be seen from Fig. 2, it is distinguished by the presence of an additional neutral wire, which comes from the junction box and goes directly to the outlet.

Such designs are often used where sockets are used infrequently, such as in the bathroom.

The use of a three-gang switch combined with a socket in one housing is also justified in cases where there is open wiring.

In general, switches and sockets are usually located at different levels and their use in one place is convenient only in special cases.

It is customary to place the switch on the wall at a height of 80-90 cm, while the sockets are usually located directly above the baseboard.

How to choose

When choosing a three-gang switch, you should pay attention to such details:

On the outside of such a three-key product there should be no burrs indicating a defective product
Keys should work easily and without jamming.
When turning on and off, clicks should be clearly audible, the same for all three keys.
On the reverse side of the device, a diagram of its connection to the network should be shown.
Terminals must be free of burrs and work properly.
It is advisable to choose devices with plug-in terminals - they facilitate installation and provide reliable and durable contact

Useful advice: the use of the release in question in the same block with a socket is justified, in most cases, only with open wiring equipment, because. according to the rules of electrical safety, sockets and switches must not be located below 1.5 m from the floor. Therefore, when choosing the location of such a unit, it is worth considering all the nuances of its use, so that it is convenient to turn on / off the light and use the socket.

Comments:

Preparatory work

To connect a three-key switch need to prepare for it place on the wall. If the wiring in the house or apartment is outdoor, it is enough to bring the wires from the junction box to the intended location, laying them in the cable channel first.

Cable channel supply to lighting lamps

If the wiring is hidden, then before installation switch a socket box is first mounted into the wall, a 4-core cable is connected to it (using a strobe in the wall) from the distribution boxes. All this is fixed with the help of electrical alabaster.

Installation example of socket boxes for switches or sockets

The cross-sectional area of each cable core must be at least 0.75 mm 2. Installation is carried out already on a completely finished wall - after finishing (painting, wallpapering, etc.). If you only need to replace switch, then the task is simplified. You just need to dismantle the old switch. To do this, the keys are removed by prying them with a fingernail or a flat-head screwdriver, and the fixing screws are unscrewed. After removing the protective housing, you need to remove the base from the socket and disconnect all the wires.

Example of removing the switch key

Dismantling of the circuit breaker may only be carried out in a de-energized electrical network. Neglect of safety rules threatens to receive an electric shock, with all the ensuing consequences.

The power is turned off at the switchboard of the house (apartment). Automatic checkbox switch voltage must be in the off (down) position.

Circuit breaker flag down

To finally verify the safety of operation, it is recommended to additionally check the voltage at the terminals switch household indicator or tester.

When powered, the built-in LED lights up.

For the convenience of further installation, especially if this is done for the first time, it is advisable to mark the phase wire with a marker. It is located separately from the others, in the same way it should be installed in the future. With proper observance of color marking, the wire with the phase is colored red (or brown).

Device and wiring diagram for triple switch

Principle of operation switch simple enough. Pressing the key connects or disconnects the lamp power circuit. Inside the base are movable copper contacts. By moving the key up, the contacts are connected, by moving down, they open. On switch phase wire is connected. Zero is fed to the lamp from the junction box.

An example of the distribution of lighting functions on the keys

Using the three-key switch allows you to save space on the wall, simplifies installation work. In addition, when using such switch significant energy savings (up to 20%), as it becomes possible to turn off unnecessary lamps. Various key combinations can illuminate only the space that is needed at the current time, divide the lighting into levels.

What tools and materials are needed

To connect a three-key switch you will need the following tools:

electrical screwdriver with a flat slot, size 3.5–5 mm .;
pliers.
knife or stripper for stripping insulation on wires;

Photo gallery: tools needed for the job

Screwdriver leg isolated
Facilitates the stripping of wires from insulation
Electrical pliers

If switch installed for the first time, from consumables you will need cable of the required cross section, junction box, installation socket, terminal blocks or insulating tape. With external wiring - a cable channel, and with a hidden one - a corrugated sleeve and alabaster.

Photo gallery: necessary materials

Terminal blocks are used to connect conductors Twisted connections are insulated with electrical tape Installation junction box
For external wiring, a cable channel is used. The switch is mounted in a socket
The socket is fixed with alabaster

At the time of buying switch pay attention to the code "IP", which usually marked on the packaging. The code consists of two digits indicating the level of protection of the base from moisture and dust. This is especially important when installing the appliance in the bathroom or outside the house. The first digit indicates the degree of protection against dust, the second - against moisture, on a 6-digit scale. IP 20 is sufficient for indoor premises, it is better to install outdoors or in a bathroom switch with IP 66. In addition, on a well-made the switch is always marked with a wiring diagram and the phase terminal is separately highlighted (with an arrow or the Latin letter L).

Wiring diagram on the back of the switch

How to connect a three-key switch: step by step

The sequence of actions when connecting a three-key switch next:

Turning off the general power (or lighting group) at the switchboard. This is necessary to ensure the safety of the work being carried out.
Safety plugs
Dismantling switch. If switch new, disassembling it consists in disconnecting the housing from the base and loosening the terminal fasteners. In some modern devices, the terminal is arranged according to the latch principle; it is not necessary to release it. The wire is simply inserted into the hole and automatically fixed there. In addition, in order to secure switch in the socket, you need to one, two turns of the screw, loosen the tension of the spacer legs.
Spacer leg screws
Connecting wires to the switch. The most important moment. It is necessary to understand 4 wires. One is fixed in a common terminal, from which the “phase” will be supplied to all three lamps. The remaining 3 are connected in the desired order. For example, one powers the center chandelier, the second turns on the wall sconce, and the third lights the island above the sofa in the living room. Or, if the chandelier has 6 lamps, switching on 3 pairs in turn. Cleaning from insulation is convenient to do with a stripper, but you can also use a regular knife. The length of the bare wire should not exceed 10 mm, so that after immersing it in the terminal socket, no more than 1 mm remains outside. If the terminal clamp is screw, it must be tightened firmly enough.
Fastening wires in terminals
Connecting wires in the junction box. The most reliable connection of wires is soldering. It is not for nothing that the junction box is still often called “soldering” by electricians today. However, this work requires skills and a soldering iron with all accessories. Therefore, in most cases, the wires are connected by terminal blocks, of which there is a wide variety on sale. In terms of technical characteristics, such a connection is practically in no way inferior to soldering, and in some cases even more progressive (for example, when a transition is made from an aluminum conductor to a copper one). In extreme cases, ordinary twisting of metal conductors is also acceptable, which is done with the help of pliers. Exposing the insulation in the junction box should also be only enough to ensure the reliability of fastening, no more. All cable joints must be carefully insulated so that they cannot come into contact with each other.
Connection of wires in the junction box
Checking the correct connection. Having finally connected all the wires, before the final assembly, you can check the operation of the entire circuit. To do this, turn on the power on the switchboard, test the switch and turn off the current in the network again.
Junction box assembly and switch. If everything is working normally, the wires in the junction box are neatly laid inside and closed with a lid. Switch installed in a socket. To do this, the screws of the spacer legs are twisted clockwise. You need to wring them out evenly on each side so that the base eventually turns out to be firmly fixed in the center of the hole. But you shouldn’t overtighten either, if you tighten it too much, the legs can pierce the plastic case of the socket box and switch will "hang out" in it. After that, the protective case is screwed on and the keys are inserted into the grooves. Assembly completed.
Switch assembly
Turning on the general power.

In addition to the first and last points, the order of work may change, it does not matter. It is possible, for example, to first connect the wires in the installation box, and then mount directly switch.

Something else is important. According to the rules for the installation of electrical appliances (PUE), it is necessary to connect the device so that it is the phase current conductor that opens. If you swap the "phase" and "zero" everything will work, but there will always be voltage on the lamp. And this is fraught with electric shocks in case of careless touching of bare contacts when replacing a light bulb. In addition, the rules regulate the position of the keys. The light should turn on by pressing the button up, and turn off by pressing down.

Three-key connection diagram switch fundamentally not differs from the connection scheme of one or two keyboards. The difference is only in the number of controlled lighting points.

Example of a step-by-step installation of a switch

Video: three-key installation switch

Video: connecting a three-key switch with socket

Possible errors and ways to solve them

The most common connection error switch is a mess with the wires. To avoid it and the device worked in normal mode, it is recommended to connect the lamps in series, observing the serial connection of the conductors. Color coding can make things easier. In this case, the introductory, common contact coming from the junction box is fixed first.

Example of conductor color coding

Clamp the contacts tightly enough so that during installation work they do not fall out of the terminals. Sometimes it happens that switch connected and checked, but after installing it in the socket, it stopped working. Then you need to remove it again and additionally tighten the terminals. Here, by the way, you can see that it is necessary to use only the installation type of wires, indicated by the letter "U" on the marking, to connect all the lighting. It differs in that the inner metal part is a solid copper rod. A connecting cable consisting of woven thread-like conductors into one core must not be used.

In general, circuit breakers are designed for a long service life - up to 10 years or more. But at the same time, it is necessary to observe the correct connection and use lamps whose power does not exceed 100 watts. When overloaded with high currents, the copper contacts begin to burn and char, which ultimately leads to an interruption in the power supply. A preventative measure to eliminate such a problem may be cleaning the contacts and additionally tightening the terminal clamps.

The use of energy-saving and LED lamps significantly extends the life of the switch.

LED lamp consumes low current

A small nuance. If LED bulbs that consume low currents are installed in lighting fixtures, it is not recommended to use switch with backlight - the built-in LED on the case will not work.

When carrying out electrical work, fire and personal safety measures must be observed. The installation of the circuit breaker involves the connection of a high voltage current. To avoid becoming a victim of an accident, you must follow the recommendations and rules for safe installation.