Design

How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands with drawings. Instructions for making a carpentry workbench with your own hands with drawings and videos Drawing a carpentry table for a workshop

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, to put it modern language, ergonomically, which was considered a guarantee of not only fast and effective work but also security. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, racks and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in the conditions of a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple advice and tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of their design features a workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with the most different dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the workpieces being processed directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced as manually, and with the use of power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:

Work surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the cover, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
Bench legs are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Joiner's workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:

Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
Collapsible or "workbench-transformer", convenient for its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.

Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a metal workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in the working area are preferably enclosed in a corrugated pipe or box.

Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench, planed timber will be the best material, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

for legs - 100x70 mm;
for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For countertops, it is better to choose boards with a thickness of 5 cm, or a solid canvas, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:

Base assembly;
Tabletop installation;
Installation of equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

The base, as a structural element of the workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.

Countertop fabrication and installation

Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. A massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together from previously prepared thick boards, for fastening which long nails are used, driven in with inside boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the table top, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.

The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the table top for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the table top. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.

Equipment installation

To installed countertop a vice is attached, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.

In addition to the vice, the classic workbench equipment is wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by an electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the equipment connected at the same time, as well as to correctly connect the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a locksmith's workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining a locksmith's and carpentry's workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.

For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. Ideally, they cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.

The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. The workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.

Screwdriver.

Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. profile pipe intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is mandatory to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and bumps are recommended before painting work clean thoroughly. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product well-known brand, it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.

The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(e.g. during construction or overhaul), the other is going for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

Option A - portable workbench (mobile). Such a desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms (an extension, a garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform small work with small parts. The relatively low weight of the structure makes it easy to move it, if necessary, to another segment. As a rule, the maximum that such a workbench can be equipped with is a medium-sized vice and e / emery. This will allow the carpentry table to be partially used for small plumbing work.

Option B - stationary workbench. Its distinguishing feature is massiveness. Such joiner's tables are mainly needed by those who often cut (dissolve) lumber - overall boards, timber or logs. In practice, amateur craftsmen install them on the site only for the period of building a house or outbuildings. After completion of work, they are used infrequently - for "rough" technological operations. For a private house, such a workbench is needed, but for a garage (given the small size of the box) it is hardly suitable.

Option B - in fact, this is an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (on bolted connections). Its advantage is the ability to modify or modify something at any time, depending on the tasks being solved. But a significant disadvantage is the complexity of the assembly. And if vibrating mechanisms are installed on such a workbench (the same electric / grindstone), then it will have to be constantly put in order (tighten all fasteners).

For domestic purposes, a table according to option A is best suited for a home master. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.

Drafting a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is going to domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.

Length - at least 180.
Working surface width – 90±10.
Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

The number and type of compartments in the cabinet table. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “nests” in the tabletop to install limiters.
To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their "sponges" is 170 ± 5 mm.
Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Workbench drawing example

Selection of materials

The bar is planed. He will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - at least 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal use, you can limit yourself to blanks of 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For a countertop, its minimum thickness is 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more rationally. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform locksmith work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, "sixty") and upholster a small segment of the tabletop with sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.

The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. So for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.

fasteners

Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They should be of such length that a washer, grover and nut can be placed on the back side. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
Nails. How expedient it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.

Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.

Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.

Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.

Manufacturing of workbench parts

This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
Each sample is carefully polished.
Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
Drying. This is worth focusing on. It is impossible to initiate this process with the help of artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)

Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).

Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so in the open, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.

Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.

table top

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
The blanks are stacked face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. In extreme cases, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry make clamping devices on their own.

In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the complete set of the table, the design features of various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

Any welder or turner needs a workplace where they can work with metal: processing, sharpening, cutting, grinding. For these purposes, you need a locksmith workbench. The main difference between a locksmith's workbench and a carpenter's workbench is the metal surface, while the carpenter's surface is made mainly of wood.

Main nuances

Most home craftsmen prefer not to buy a workbench, but to make it with their own hands. Firstly, a do-it-yourself metal workbench will cost much less than a purchased one. Secondly, when making a structure, it is possible to realize your ideas, and finally, if everything is done correctly, then the quality of a home-made workbench will be several times better than that of a purchased one. With some simple metal manipulation, a small amount of tools, and welding and cutting skills, you can get a pretty decent table.

When manufacturing, you should divide the workbench into components (for more convenient assembly) and take into account important nuances:

DIY workbench

First you need to decide where the workbench will be located and what you can fix it to. If the design is angular, then the best option in this case, start building from the walls themselves, while they must be strong.

This option is good because Design modifications can be made along the way., but if the master is inexperienced, then it is better to use another option. Optimal solution— production of a workbench according to ready-made drawings. Of course, the cost of this option is several times higher, but the dimensions and material have already been selected and indicated in the drawing, which greatly facilitates the work.

The base is made of the 35th corner with a wall thickness of 5 mm. From such material the steady design turns out. A 3 mm thick sheet is used as a working surface, 60 mm thick boards are present under the sheet, which provides even greater structural rigidity. The binding of the table can be made from a thinner corner, since the load on it is minimal, and boards can be used from 20 mm. As for the remaining shelves, plywood is used as a pallet, the thickness of which ranges from 10 to 20 mm. Drawers are made of 2 mm steel. For the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench, the dimensions are shown below.

The height and width of the vise table can be changed and adjusted to suit your needs. You will also need the following materials:

Corner 35 mm, wall thickness not less than 5 mm.
Corner 20 mm for the frame.
For the support legs, it is necessary to make plates from pieces of steel sheet to fasten the workbench to the floor.
Plywood.
Beam 60 to 40.

After the frame is ready, it is necessary to clean the metal. Then, in order to avoid metal corrosion, the structure must be coated with a metal primer in 2 layers and then proceed to painting. Wooden elements must also be primed and, if possible, varnished. Wood treated in this way will last a long time and will not absorb moisture and rot.

Once the boards are dry, they can be laid on the finished structure. It is advisable to drill holes at the beginning and at the end of each board and attach them to the base using metal screws. The sheet, which will serve as a kind of shield from hammer blows, must be laid on the boards and fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws to the boards. On all shelves you need to lay sheets of plywood and fix them in any way. The next step is to make the boxes themselves out of sheet metal.

After the sheet of metal has been made according to the drawing, its side parts should be bent and scalded. It should look like this:

Weld a handle to pull the drawer to the front. Before installation, you need to prime and paint in the same way as the frame itself. Insert the finished boxes into the workbench.

It should be noted that this workbench does not have room for legs. This, of course, is not very convenient, but on the other hand, you can put much more tools and workpieces. You can immediately attach a vise to such a workbench, drilling machine and other equipment.

locksmith table

Those who have little space at their disposal for a workbench, suitable option that combines a small locksmith table with workbench elements. On such a table you can place the most necessary plumbing equipment. The design looks like this:

You can make such a table in the workshop from a corner of 60 x 60 or 70 x 70. The corners need to be welded together to make a kind of rectangle. You can put boards or plywood on the bottom of the table, but before that you need to lower parts corner drill holes for fixing the table to the floor.

The structure should be primed and painted. If the table will stand in a dry, heated room, then to save money, you can not process the surface. For the countertop, a sheet with a thickness of 6-7 mm is required, under which boards should be laid to dampen vibration from hammer blows and work with power tools. The sheet is fastened with bolts or screws for metal.

All sizes are purely individual and are selected by the master independently.

This design is good because it takes up little space, and even a novice locksmith can make it.

This option is made from square pipe and corner. The frame is made of a square pipe, and the corner will give the structure the necessary rigidity and is used for edging.

Tools for making a workbench:

Welding machine.
Bulgarian with sharpening cutting discs.
Squares.
Roulette.
Plywood, corner and square pipes.
Screws and drawer guides.
Self-tapping screws for metal and anchors.
Paint for wood and metal.
Steel sheet.

The structure must be welded in such a way that the second part of the corners can be welded onto its upper surface, in which the boards under the countertop will be located.

Now you can start making a frame from the corners for the tabletop. The corners must be cut into two parts, 2000 mm long. You will also need two corners of 750 mm. All this must be welded so that the boards under the countertop lie in the grooves of the corner.

In order to weld the crate for the tool, you will need two corners of 2000 mm and 4 corners of 950 mm each. To strengthen the frame, fix the corners 950 mm long in the middle and two on the sides. The panel can be welded to the worktop as follows:

The next step is to strengthen the structure with the help of corners. This must be done as shown in the figure:

It's time to make plywood boxes. The process itself is simple: plywood should be cut into blanks with a jigsaw, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, and their number can be from two to three. It is necessary to attach guides to the boxes, but before that, two metal strips should be attached from each side, to which the guides will be attached.

After all the components are ready, you can proceed to laying the boards on the workbench. The board must be no thinner than 50 mm and 2190 mm long. If you can’t find long boards on the farm, then you can get by with short pieces of 74 cm each. Before laying, you should treat the boards with an “anti-bark beetle” to extend their service life. The metal structure needs to be primed and painted. On top of the boards you need to fix the steel sheet.

At the very end, boxes are installed, and the tool stand is sheathed with plywood.

The last step is to ground the workbench to avoid damage. electric shock. You can immediately attach a vise, a grinder and various devices. Optionally, it is allowed to run cables for sockets and additional lighting, which will make the work even more comfortable.

As practice has shown, the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench is a rather painstaking task that incurs financial costs, but the master will only receive from working on such a table positive emotions. Work will become much easier due to the fact that all the tools will be at hand.

Most of the home craftsmen, who are the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace to one degree or another by setting up comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home needlework, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which becomes a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of homemade and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently do the arrangement of a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.

Workshop Workbench Types

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized work on the processing of different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. According to the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:

carpentry;
plumbing;
combined.

Based on the design features, the following types are added to them:

universal;
folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and a distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you experience home master convert to banknotes outside your apartment or courtyard of your house, you can either pick up a universal factory-made folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable, and here three options are possible:

carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of locksmith operations;
locksmith workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
combined workbench.

We immediately note that the latter option is not best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and metalwork types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple DIY garage workbench

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.

Well, if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform metal or woodwork, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top rail of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm on the bottom and 1600 mm on the top. And behind we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making spiked joints, use it, as we did.

If not, then make them manually or you can join the parts end-to-end using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side racks as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can begin to assemble the entire frame.

The central jumper inside the frame, made of the same bar 40x80, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, acts as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from old desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.

For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated surface made of fiberboard. We screwed a board on metal plates to the leading edge, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for fastening a small metalwork vice with a clamp.

We fixed the working surface to the frame on metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Making a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a carpentry workbench and do some design modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes up to the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spiked joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often type-setting) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fixing workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m, and the width must be at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he lacked 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different material for countertops, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and various vise mechanisms. Now in order:

1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then the connection of its elements can be done by any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The table top can be made from ready-made glued wooden panels sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends with wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.

3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the table top of the workbench is built up with bars of the appropriate sizes. The most popular clamps are:

- carpenter's lead screw with two Czech-made guides Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of approx. 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish carpenter's vice Piher, 150 mm, approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own by using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transmit such efforts as a vise, but it will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its cheapness;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same studs, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 of these clamps on one vice.

4. Make holes for the stop pegs in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fastening of overall products.

5. Fasten the table top of the workbench to the base on powerful metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to fasten it to the floor.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench option described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.

The simplest of these is to make an overlay of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a steel angle frame, kept separate from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered to the table top if necessary.
The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a bench vise. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require passing through the workbench top.

Of course, you can fit the holes for the stops under the fasteners of the vice, but with a thick overlay, you can do without it. Also of interest is the option of attaching a bench vise directly to the tabletop of a carpentry workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be done on the entire area of the workbench. There are many options, the choice is yours.

Refinement of a locksmith's workbench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways we will tell you about its adaptation for carpentry, especially since it is not at all difficult. To fully use your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vise and make several simple fixtures.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first figure below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the dowels (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device fastening the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate fixed with recessed clamps, with all the set of blank fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by the appropriate height with a ladder at the workbench.

There is nothing to say about the back stop, it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overlay planing board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the processed bar) and screwing the beam on the underside to stop on the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns the locksmith workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for fixing the workpiece also allows us to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for a more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.