Chain saw with your own hands. Pocket chain saw


Going on a long journey, fishing with an overnight stay, hunting, or just relaxing, many fishermen, hunters and tourists load a small chainsaw into the luggage of a car. Most often, this is a small lopper to cut a suharnik for a supply of firewood. But what about long-distance hikers? You can’t put a chainsaw in a backpack, even if it’s a small one - it will simply crowd out all the other accessories needed on a hiking trip. Yes, and the prospect of dragging excess weight, even if it is a necessary thing in the campaign, it does not cause much optimism. Of course, in a backpack there is always a place for a small hatchet, but there are times when a saw is needed. For example, sawing off a piece of thick log that will burn all night. The dry, resinous trunk of a fallen coniferous tree is unusually hard, and with a small hatchet it can be baled all night. No fire required! In this case, the chain from this same chainsaw will help us out a lot, from which we will make a pocket chainsaw. With its help, you can quite easily and quickly cut a trunk with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. To make such a saw is a matter of half an hour. I, among other things in the shed, had a broken chainsaw chain lying around, from which I made a pocket chainsaw.


You can, of course, make it from a new chain, but, in my opinion, the saw will not be as effective from a new chain; she has too wide, not ground off teeth and she is not developed - it will be harder for her to wield. On the old chain, all the teeth are already, as a rule, thin and ground off, which is very convenient for this type of saw.

It will take

  • Chainsaw chain (preferably old, already developed).
  • Emery machine.
  • File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
  • Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a key fob) 2 pcs.
  • Tin and flux.
  • A gas burner or a powerful lighter.
  • A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
  • Machine oil.

Making a pocket chain saw:

First, we will rid the chain of everything superfluous and sticking out. Apart from the saw teeth, of course.



With the help of an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, the teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. Get a chain like this:


Next, you need to give the desired shape to the saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked on a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, respectively, must be sharpened from both ends. On an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc, we give the teeth triangular shape.



Armed with a round file, or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.


Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.



We expand the links a little so that the iron ring put on later fits freely in them.


We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should turn out like this:


Next, let's move on to the handles. Here, at first, I didn’t guess a little with the material for the handles; cut off 16 mm metal-plastic tubes in the width of his five.



Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, plastic will slip out of woolen mittens, and it’s cold to work with gloves. So it is better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut in the same place, on the spot, instead of handles. Although it’s everyone’s business here - I personally (as you can see in the video) got along just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire ... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat the metal rings with a soldering iron, therefore, I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I simply cleaned the metal surface to be soldered with sandpaper, smeared it with flux, warmed it up with a lighter and applied tin. It remains only to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.


I used gun oil for this but, in the absence of such, you can use any. Even vegetable! That's all. It remains to be tested. As you can see in the video below, the chain handles dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.


If you need to cut down something more serious - it's never too late to cut a couple of branches for the handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that later, without saving, you can maintain a fire for heating and cooking.



The most important and, perhaps, the biggest plus of this product is that it is very compact and light. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of a backpack or bag - a matter of minutes. Do not forget to lubricate the chain with oil, and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you for a long time, as well as any other thing with good care and kind, caring attitude.

The cost of lumber is high enough for most private craftsmen involved in private construction, which forces them to show wonders of ingenuity. Using simple log sawing technologies, you can not only save money, but use all available personal resources efficiently and rationally.

First of all, this concerns wood and equipment, because they lay the foundation for successful work. An excellent alternative to a stationary sawmill is from a power saw, which you can do with your own hands.

What can be made from an electric saw

Since cutting equipment is always needed for sawing logs into bars and boards, rack (band) and circular saws are used in factory sawmills. Naturally, for building small house or the manufacture of several cubes of boards is impractical and expensive to purchase such a machine. The best alternative it can be a home-made design based on a chain saw.

Its potential is quite enough to meet the small needs of private developers, and just ordinary home craftsmen who cannot afford ready-made lumber. The electric saw here is the main device that combines the universal mechanical supply of the cutting tool, the electric drive. chain sawmill the best way, Unlike circular saw, suitable for longitudinal bucking and sawing logs, as it has:

  • rough cut, sufficient for effective ejection of sawdust;
  • capaciously arranged electromechanical supply of the cutting tool (chain);
  • relatively low cost.

How to make a sawmill from a power saw with your own hands

In fact, the cost of all equipment depends on the task. It is important to correctly assess the potential of the existing equipment. Everything is subject to accounting - from the density of wood to the power of the electric motor of the saw itself. However, all these calculations are quite simple. In addition, in almost any forest area there is an opportunity to buy roundwood, which at a cost will cost significantly less than lumber.

For creating a homemade sawmill from an electric saw will require:

    1. Bed, in the amount of two pieces.
    2. Fasteners both for the saw itself and for fixing the workpiece (log).
    3. Electrical cable with switch and plug socket.

Advice: In most cases, we are dealing with wood that has a low fiber density. These are pine, linden, and similar trees, which will facilitate the selection of a saw based on an electric motor. For effective work almost always a saw with more than 1.5 kW will do. The only limitation here will be the speed of its work. The stronger the engine, the faster work and cleaner cut.

The listed list should be disclosed in more detail on the example of one design, since it is not possible to describe all their modifications in one article. This is perhaps one relatively cheap, but very popular project. And in terms of cutting quality, it is almost as good as the well-known mobile sawmill Logosol.

bed

There are two of them in the design under consideration: one for the saw, and the other for fixing the workpiece. The principle of operation of this unique chain sawmill is based on the manual supply of an electric saw to the workpiece. It is easy to understand that it must move along a rigid structure, which is commonly called the machine bed. In our case, it is rigid, but necessarily even in all two planes. edged board. To stiffen the guide, you need to frame it with two tin corners. They are easy to buy in the store profiles of metal structures.

It is attached to wooden poles. As such, you can use blanks (wood chocks) or trimming a beam with a cross section of more than 18 cm. The bed itself will stand more stable, and it will also be more convenient to fix a board of maximum width.

A little lower should be placed the second frame - to fix the workpiece. Its height is selected empirically, but it is better to use linings from boards of the exact size. The very design of the frame for the log is located on the same chocks.

Connecting them together is a personal preference, since for work it is enough to dig or screw its racks hard. The distance between two parallel beds can be set arbitrarily. However, given the length of the saw bar, it should not be installed more than 3 cm away. It is better that it stands close to the saw guide and strictly parallel horizontally with respect to it.

Saw fixture and workpiece fixation

To fix the saw on the guide frame, a metal corner is used. A saw is attached to one shelf with bolts. To the other cheek of the corner, which lies on the plane of the guide board, two aluminum corners are additionally fixed, but better than steel corners.

The main corner should be of a wide section, preferably more than 10 by 10 cm. In this way, the saw itself will sit more rigidly, and it is easier to screw the guide corners from the bottom of the second shelf of the square. Guide angles should be fastened with a small gap, taking into account the width of the guide bed. This design makes it easy to remove the saw from the bed. So it will be more convenient for setting up equipment and dismantling at the end of work.

Fix preparation can be done in several ways:

  • At the ends of the log with temporarily hammered nails
  • Using special pads (saddle curved in a semicircle)

Fixing logs with hardware is a temporary option when you need to cut several logs. However, for permanent and mass sawing, it is desirable to make special fasteners. Saddles that roughly copy the radius of the logs are usually made from stiff steel tape. In extreme cases, parallel bars are used on each rack of the frame.

electrical equipment

It is impossible to call the electrical equipment of a home-made sawmill difficult, since most of it is already in the saw. You will need an electrical wire, a special connector and plug, and a switch. The entire future electrical circuit will look like a universal extension cord, similar to the cord of a floor lamp or sconce.

The presence of a switch will allow you to better control the work of the homemade product, and a special connector for connecting the saw fork is convenient for moving, as it does not get stuck anywhere. So that the power cord does not accidentally jump out during operation, it must be fixed to the saw itself with a bridle or electrical tape. Provide safe work the presence of an overload and short circuit protection machine in the electrical panel will help.

Conclusion

A chain sawmill based on improvised means is no worse than factory equipment. The only thing she loses in is the speed of wood processing. But given the nature and purpose of use homemade equipment, That is unnecessary. With only a power saw on hand and some money to assemble an electric extension cord, you will have a great opportunity to have your own sawmill.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for suburban area or in a private home. She simply copes with cutting thick branches, boards and different material from wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to fix small or large breakdowns. Electric saw repair their hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are simply fixed without the help of others.

Overview of the design of the chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair power saws, you need to be aware of their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a combination of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The movement of the chain is done on a plate, which is called a tire. Do-it-yourself power saw from a grinder. This part is made of steel of the highest quality, which is not subject to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the property of the tool. Tires are distinguished by design:

  • welded;
  • one-piece with a removable tip;
  • one-piece with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich”, which is welded from 3 components into one, while a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with interchangeable tip - 1 sheet product, normal for long instruments. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. One-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid bar made of carbide materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in conditions of the presence of a huge amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. CHAIN ​​ELECTRIC SAW FROM THE BULGARIAN OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” appearance. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests against the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Read also

2. An automatic chain brake is also called an inertial drive, which works thanks to a shield located in front of the left hand of the person performing the work. Before work, this shield is placed in a position closer to the hand, so that, if necessary, it is rapidly activated. If there is a moment of reverse impact, then the operator's hand rests against this shield and the chain stops. The position also changes due to the inertia arising from the impact. Such a system makes it possible to reduce the possibility of repairing chain saws, because during the impact its main mechanism will not be damaged.

3. Another system that prevents wear and tear is automatic chain lubrication. Oil is poured into a special reservoir, which during the operation of the saw is transferred through the oil pump to the driven sprocket and chain. Some models even have an oil supply regulator, because different amounts of oil are needed at different work intensities. For example, repairing a Makita electric saw involves inspecting the oil supply system.

4. Chain saws with an electronic motor have some shortcomings or weak points. One of them is the design of the gearbox. The torque is transmitted to the chain through a gearbox, which is rigidly connected to the armature of the electronic motor. This design transfers all the loads to the motor, in other words, if the workpiece contains hard inserts or the saw chain is blunt, then it will not glide so smoothly over the surface. The result of this will be overheating of the motor or wear of some of its parts. Chain saw significantly How to connect washing machine do-it-yourself k. As preventive measure you need to sharpen the saw in time and do not put pressure on it when working. Often they come to the service repair of the Parma electric saw with such defects.

5. The second weak point of saws with an electronic motor is the dependence on the mains voltage. If it falls, the load on the motor increases, in models that are not equipped with thermal protection of the motor, the growing load leads to its combustion. Yes, and the temperature increase protection has flaws, because at low voltage it works, reducing performance. For example, repairing an Interskol electric saw often comes down only to increasing the voltage in the network, after which the tool works properly.

Overview of possible malfunctions of electric saws

  1. If the saw does not cut, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
  2. If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To eliminate this problem, you need to move the brake shield to a different position.
  3. If the measures described above did not turn on the saw, then need to check cable and plug integrity.
  4. If the power of the saw has decreased, the performance has fallen, you need to change the carbon brushes, which, apparently, have worn out.
  5. Quite often, the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain amount of time. The longer the saw is operated, the larger this time gap becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
  6. Often in the work of the saw there is a nasty, ear-cutting sound. Such a sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A chain saw is a saw How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. It's easy to fix the problem - fill in the oil and clean the furrows.
  7. It is important to use only original spare parts that are recommended by the manufacturer. Using spare parts from other companies often results in tool breakage or unsafe situations.
  8. If there is damage to the case, then for the sake of your safety, the saw must be handed over for repair.
  9. Do not replace the cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or do not fit the design.

CHAIN ELECTRIC SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for grinder, turning it into chain saw.

Electric saw sharpening

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth repairing an apartment with your own hands. It must be sharpened prophylactically, since in case of delay with this process, it will no longer be possible to repair the chain saw with your own hands. It must be given to the service, where sharpening will be done on professional machines.

Read also

1. Extending the service life of the saw element:

  • Before starting work, make sure that there are no hard metal objects in the workpiece. If the cutting element comes into contact with a metal object, then a notch or chip will remain on the chain, which can no longer be removed;
  • it is impossible to carry out work on the ground, since the recess in the ground will clog the oil grooves, as a result of which the chain will remain without normal lubrication and wear out faster;
  • it is necessary to monitor the wedge of the saw, it must not be allowed, as this overheats the metal and reduces its service life.

2. How to tell if a saw needs sharpening. To do this, just pay attention to the chips - if they are small and slightly darker, then the chain is dull. This is due to the fact that blunt edges do not remove the necessary cutting layer, this leads to chip refinement. Also, the quality of saw sharpening is determined on the basis of visual inspection, there should be no radii on the saw part, damage in the form of torn sections, the shape of the tooth and cutting edge should be the same as on a new tool.

If all these factors do not meet the necessary requirements, then the saw requires sharpening. If you continue to work on a blunt saw, then this will affect the performance, as well as the life of the saw. With sharpened elements, the load on the motor increases, it overheats and all its elements wear out faster than the specified period.

3. How to sharpen an electric saw yourself:

  • sharpening requires a special tool, this is a set of round and oval files, a mandrel and a caliber;
  • sometimes the set additionally includes a hook for cleaning the chain slots from chips;
  • a round file is combined with a mandrel;
  • flat file and gauge are used separately;
  • the chain is sharpened on the saw bar itself;

  • the mandrel is placed on the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the angle of sharpening the chamfer;
  • the sharpening angle is set to 30 or 10 °, setting the angle is the most difficult editing process, since if the wrong angle is set, the tool will be damaged;
  • when sharpening, the file is set perpendicular to the shank, it protrudes slightly above the tooth when sharpening;
  • sharpening takes place in one direction, that is, only translational movement, not reciprocating;
  • when one tooth is sharpened, the chain is scrolled and the next tooth is sharpened;
  • after all the edges of the teeth have been processed with a file, the processing of the restrictive cut begins - a protrusion on the chain that does not have cutting edges, it is located on the same plate with the tooth. The function of this part is to form a recess when cutting;
  • if the cut stops protrude strongly, then the chain will not cut, but only slide; if they are too deep, the tree will jam the cutting part of the tool;
  • editing of the cut limiters is carried out with a caliber, it is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth, while end plate is on the same level with the limiter;
  • if the limiter protrudes, then it must be trimmed, this is done with an ordinary flat file;
  • the file along the limiter is moved in a perpendicular plane in one direction.

4. Sharpening the saw on the machine:

  • for sharpening on the machine, the chain is removed from the tavern;
  • the chain is installed on the guide of the machine and pulled with a roller and ratchet, which hold it by the cutting tooth;
  • the machine has a protractor that sets the sharpening angle;
  • the abrasive wheel is lowered, with its help an insignificant layer of metal is removed - about a few tenths of a millimeter. This is the process of straightening and sharpening the chain;
  • after straightening one tooth, the guide is moved to the next and so on;
  • this type of sharpening allows you to withstand the rigid framework of editing and sharpening the tool;
  • if there is a desire to purchase such a machine for yourself, then it is recommended to purchase not an electric version of it, but a manual one, since its cost is much lower. The machine allows you to postpone the repair of electric saws from Bosch and any other manufacturers.

Some rules for working with electric saws

  1. Chain saws are designed to operate at maximum speed, and should always be run at wide open throttle to increase productivity.
  2. You should not cut at a right angle away from you, you should hold the saw at a slight angle from the body.
  3. It is necessary to adhere to the instructions for repairing the electric saw, as well as purchase only those spare parts that which are recommended by the manufacturer.
  4. Before transporting the saw, it is necessary to turn off the engine, keep the bar with the chain behind you when carrying, it is necessary to pack the saw in a casing before transportation.
  5. Do not operate the saw above shoulder height as this increases the risk of an accident.
  6. If the saw is stuck in the material, then it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
  7. When working with a log framed by thin branches, one should act very carefully, since in some cases thin material is clamped by a tire and leans back towards the person doing the work.
  8. It is strictly forbidden to use a defective, misadjusted or incompletely assembled instrument.
  9. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the operation of the saw switch.
  10. It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, because if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injuries, but also to damage to the device.
  11. Repair of power saws Partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since self repair leads to serious problems in the future.

Read also

Electric saw for longitudinal sawing of meat carcasses Patent number: 93581 Text 93581 Class 66 b, 9, a USSR in the Ministry of Meat 11 non-industry CO. R ayavlen 7 a Bulletin of inventions M 4 for 1952 puolikov noi ryasp ...

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It is very convenient to use such saws during hiking trips - they take up very little space, and they saw perfectly. It is not always possible to buy a factory-made tool, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What will be required

The saw is made from a chain from a chainsaw, a piece of polymer sling 60–70 cm long and about 3–4 cm wide was used for the handles. The elements are fastened with M 6 bolts with washers and nuts. The plastic is glued together with an iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled with a small grinder and a punch.

Manufacturing process

Lay the chain on a flat surface, find the connecting link. With a cordless angle grinder or angle grinder, carefully cut off the head of the rivets connecting the chain links.


Put the chain on a vise and break through the axles of the connecting rivets, the chain will be disconnected.


Prepare two pieces of polymer sling, each about 30 cm long. Bend them in half, the size of the loops should ensure a comfortable hand position while working with a saw. Bend the ends 3-4 cm each and fold them together. Thus, a reinforced knot is prepared for attaching the chain.


Place a piece of baking paper on a piece of board, one end of a bent sling on it, paper again on top. Heat the prepared place with an iron until the polymer melts and sticks together. Warm carefully, do not allow the plastic to completely melt - some types become brittle, while sawing, the chain fixation cracks, the tool will have to be repaired in the field. Using this technology, process all four ends of the pieces of tape.


Using a punch, make holes for the bolts. They should be located approximately in the middle of the prepared place at a distance of 2-3 cm from the end.


Attach the chain to the handles. First, put a bolt with a washer in the hole, put an open chain link on it, then the other end of the handle and tighten the connection with a nut.



The hand chain saw is ready to use. Press the branch with your foot and try to cut it. If the chain is sharp, then a minimum of physical effort and time will be required to harvest firewood of the required length.

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Pocket chain saw

Going on a long journey, fishing with an overnight stay, hunting, or just relaxing, many fishermen, hunters and tourists load a small chainsaw into the luggage of a car. Most often, this is a small lopper to cut a suharnik for a supply of firewood. But what about long-distance hikers? You can’t put a chainsaw in a backpack, even a small one - it will simply crowd out all the other accessories needed on a hiking trip. And the prospect of carrying extra weight, even if it is a necessary thing in the campaign, does not cause much optimism. Of course, in a backpack there is always a place for a small hatchet, but there are times when a saw is needed. For example, sawing off a piece of thick log that will burn all night. The dry, resinous trunk of a fallen coniferous tree is unusually hard, and with a small hatchet it can be baled all night. No fire required! In this case, the chain from this same chainsaw will help us out a lot, from which we will make a pocket chainsaw. With its help, you can quite easily and quickly cut a trunk with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. To make such a saw is a matter of half an hour. I, among other things in the shed, had a broken chainsaw chain lying around, from which I made a pocket chainsaw.

You can, of course, make it from a new chain, but, in my opinion, the saw will not be as effective from a new chain; she has too wide, not ground off teeth and she is not developed - it will be harder for her to wield. On the old chain, all the teeth are already, as a rule, thin and ground off, which is very convenient for this type of saw.

It will take

  • Chainsaw chain (preferably old, already developed).
  • Emery machine.
  • File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
  • Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a key fob) 2 pcs.
  • Tin and flux.
  • A gas burner or a powerful lighter.
  • A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
  • Machine oil.

Making a pocket chain saw:

First, we will rid the chain of everything superfluous and sticking out. Apart from the saw teeth, of course.

With the help of an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, the teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. Get a chain like this:

Next, you need to give the desired shape to the saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked on a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, respectively, must be sharpened from both ends. On an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc, we give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round file, or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.

Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We expand the links a little so that the iron ring put on later fits freely in them.

We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should turn out like this:

Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, plastic will slip out of woolen mittens, and it’s cold to work with gloves. So it is better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut in the same place, on the spot, instead of handles. Although it’s everyone’s business here - I personally (as you can see in the video) got along just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire ... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat the metal rings with a soldering iron, therefore, I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I simply cleaned the metal surface to be soldered with sandpaper, smeared it with flux, warmed it up with a lighter and applied tin. It remains only to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used gun oil for this but, in the absence of such, you can use any. Even vegetable! That's all. It remains to be tested. As you can see in the video below, the chain handles dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.

If you need to cut down something more serious - it's never too late to cut a couple of branches for the handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that later, without saving, you can maintain a fire for heating and cooking.

The most important and, perhaps, the biggest plus of this product is that it is very compact and light. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of a backpack or bag - a matter of minutes. Do not forget to lubricate the chain with oil, and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you for a long time, as well as any other thing with good care and a kind, thrifty attitude.