How to drain the swamp in the country. How to get rid of reeds ⛲ and drain the area from water with your own hands, melioration
I really love to solve those puzzle questions that make the imagination work and concentrate the gardening experience. It is such a task for me - the organization of landings in a wetland.
I understand that in the direction of the person who raised this topic, stones can “fly”, but I will try not to “download” problems in the swamp, but to help in finding their solution. And the conversation must begin a serious, substantive, for which it is necessary to collect information and generalize the existing positive experience.
Scientific reference
To understand the subject of discussion, I give the scientific definition of the swamp, which is most often given on the net: " A swamp is a landscape area characterized by excessive moisture, high acidity and low soil fertility, rising to the surface of stagnant or flowing ground water, but without a permanent layer of water on the surface. The swamp is characterized by the deposition on the soil surface of incompletely decomposed organic matter, which later turns into peat. The layer of peat in swamps is at least 30 cm, if less, then these are wetlands.
So by the layer of peat you can easily determine whether your site is in a swamp or wetland. Of course, the water regime of the territory may change over time. And in many cases, it is he who plays an important role in the life of our summer cottages.
By the way, many gardeners may not even suspect that their ever-damp turns into a wetland. First of all, this can be seen from the state of vegetation: the lawn becomes sparse, grasses grow in clumps, marsh plants settle on the lawn. You can recognize them by their characteristic appearance: sedges, for example, have triangular stems ...
... and the rushes are rounded, hollow, like green onion:
Real swamps are riding(on watersheds) and grassroots, or lowlands(in gradually overgrown reservoirs, oxbow lakes). If you cut their soil like a layer cake, the differences will be clearly visible:
The soil of lowland swamps is richer due to their abundant water and mineral nutrition (mainly due to groundwater). And raised bogs, which are fed by atmospheric precipitation, have depleted soils, where there are very few minerals; their water is very acidic.
But there is also a transitional type of swamps, which, according to the state of the soil, is somewhere between these two. Of course, in such different conditions and the vegetation will be different.
Is it possible to plant a garden in a swamp?
In those days when summer cottages were organized, as a rule, unprofitable territories were allocated for them, therefore, to this day, gardening enthusiasts and professionals often face the problem of waterlogging. Yes, and primordially inhabited lands can suffer from it.
But these are all difficulties, one might say, domestic and generally surmountable, and then our “technological” ones begin, which are very serious in essence claim to the site:
- Many plants, especially woody ones, do not grow here; the possible range of landings is narrow, sometimes generally unknown.
- It is impossible to build a standard house. and constantly require correction for dampness: moisture rises from below.
There are solutions for all problems. Usually one of the main stumbling blocks is the material cost of the issue. But the eternal "know-how" and understanding of the nature of such a site are also important.
Problem Solving Approaches
Experts and scientists will say that draining the wetland will help melioration. Of course, in most cases one cannot do without professionals and equipment. By acting in an organized manner, members of the dacha association (neighbors) will be able to jointly organize and sponsor drainage work. But sometimes there is no money, and then the “herd” can try to raise this difficult issue.
Sometimes the solution to the problem of temporary flooding is to clean the reclamation canal, which is overgrown with grass or blocked by a pile of debris and plant debris. And sometimes you have to fight with neighbors who have built unauthorized structures or communications - here sometimes you can’t do without courts. A competent lawyer in a partnership is the key to solving the problem.
Drainage system device
In a wetland, building a house or other structure can be a big problem. - modern solution drainage issue.
At first, it is desirable to carry out organized reclamation throughout the surrounding area(draining the lands of the dacha partnership with ditches, organizing a general drainage system, arrangement of a reservoir at the lower point of the relief). The drainage system of the site should be organized after the construction of the house, but without putting it off for a long time. The level of complexity of the system depends on the specific conditions and capabilities of the owners. By the way, many are afraid that after installing the drainage system, the landscape will look unnatural. But I think successful examples can inspire you.
Here is a dark, damp corner of the garden where a stream flows: 
Agree, a “dry stream” looks much more profitable, more attractive, at the bottom of which special drainage structures with pipes are installed. And light pebbles imitate water, and even brighten up a rather gloomy area:
And on top of the drainage system (under special reservations and conditions that should be agreed with specialists), you can organize walk-through zones and paths:
But such works (at least - projects), of course, are better to entrust to professionals.
House in the swamp
A house in a wetland must also correspond to the nature of the multi-layer soil: pile, tape and slab foundations(the article talks about them in more detail). In my humble opinion, piles and waterproofing are the main helpers and salvation from excessive moisture. This method is the most economical, quickly implemented. But beforehand, it is necessary to conduct a study of the soil, revealing "quicksands" - swampy "pockets". It is better that professionals (geologists, surveyors) do this. Here is a link to a visualization video.
Research is carried out in the spring; for small house- a minimum depth of 5 m, and for a large one - at least 8 m. If no problems with the soil are found, you can start installing piles. There are some nuances here: piles come in various lengths, screw and driven type; they should be set to the level of solid ground, and not the freezing level of the soil, as in a normal, non-wetland area. Sometimes piles of different lengths are used for one house, since solid ground can be at different depths. And, unfortunately, it is excluded on such a site, which will upset the thrifty owners.
What grows by itself and what we can plant
In lowland and raised bogs there are various plants, including very useful ones.
What are we growing?
On the lowland swamps(with a smaller layer of black peat than on horseback ones) can grow,. Quite often here is calamus marsh, reeds,.
Also here you can see a series, valerian, plakun-grass (), poisonous hemlock, pepper mountaineer.
On the raised bogs(with a thick layer of peat, poor soil with high acidity), less demanding plants settle: sometimes birch, cotton grass, sphagnum moss, cassandra, sheikhzeria, cuckoo flax.
In any case, you will have a poor one that will have to be alkalized and improved. Perfect option- bring a lot of clay soil, sand, and mix with peat. To neutralize the increased acidity, it is necessary to add dolomite flour (the amount depends on which plants are cultivated).
On such a plot, all plants that grow here initially, as well as most of the representatives of related species and their varieties, are successfully cultivated. Particular attention, in my opinion, can be paid to varieties of cranberries, blueberries, heather, ornamental sedges.
What will we plant?
After reclamation has been carried out, the soil has been partially replaced, its acidity has been neutralized, plants can be planted on the site for moderately moist soils: marsh and Siberian, swamp, river gravilate, common cuckoo color, volzhanka (arunkus), buttercups, black cohosh, rogersia, moisture-loving, decodon (these are different plants!), cortuses, hemp-shaped vine,. You can even try to grow lysichiton, various orchids.
If there is a strong desire to equip the lawn, then you need to choose legumes and cereals that can withstand flooding (just keep in mind that they can be quite high): bluegrass meadow, fibrous wheatgrass, hybrid, common beckmania, reed dwarf, red fescue, shakers, odorous spikelet , awnless bonfire, white and giant bent grass, large mannik, reed canary grass, reed grass, blue sesleria, marsh rank, meadow foxtail, blue lightning.
Fruit and berry garden in the swamp
But what to do if there is a desire to plant fruit trees? Of course, it is better to try varieties that have proven themselves in flooding conditions: small in size, respectively, with a more compact root system. Landing should be organized on small mounds (ridges, elevated areas), fenced with dug boards or stones to prevent soil from spreading.
Of course, the types and varieties of berries that grow in swamps and wetlands deserve special mention: cranberries and blueberries (certain species, varieties),. Seedlings of these crops are already appearing frequently in garden centers. Their agricultural technology in a wetland is not difficult, and your dacha will have its own "trick" - the envy of friends and an example for neighbors. However, problems can arise with blueberries: they do not tolerate stagnant water, so drainage must be carefully monitored.
And also...
Perhaps you should try to "populate" the mycelium and grow mushrooms right on the site.
Moss cultivation technologies are of interest; the compositions created in this way look rather original on garden sculptures, vases, decorative stones and just on the ground.
In a problematic, waterlogged area, these narrow horticultural topics can be developed. But it's important to remember essential features cultivation of any plants in such conditions: the growing season here will be somewhat shorter, and you will have to constantly monitor soil acidity and drainage conditions.
Good Examples
There are few examples of swamp gardens, but they exist! They are the shining examples to follow. Recently, I learned that in the center of Moscow, in the new Zaryadye park, a site is being planned that imitates a swampy area. Insanely interesting, how will the designers work? This section will represent the tundra zone, where, in fact, there is a continuous swampy area.
And the example of water gardens in the Moscow region is also indicative, where the theme of water, including swamp gardens,. Even academic institutions botanical gardens- organize special areas where marsh plants are planted.
But the most stunning garden in the swamp is a park in the city of Jinhua. The scale of this project is amazing. 
So we should not be afraid either: it is better to make mistakes and find the only right solution than to sit back and dream.
Choosing approaches to design
If we organize a garden in a country house in a swampy area, then in choosing colors pay attention to the general light and warm colors. A variety of flowering and decorative leafy species is welcome. It is extremely important to take care of the continuous decorativeness of the garden, which can partly be achieved through the original layout of the site, the use of small architectural forms, interesting pavements and road grid patterns. A properly selected contrast of shapes, colors, textures of plants and buildings will certainly play its role.
If we miss any element among the plant components, we can try to compensate for this by other means, for example, by painting the house; using garden decor; installation of new lighting that changes the appearance of the garden; organization of light paths, bright dumping.
A pond on such a site is not a luxury, it is just a logical given from nature! Having arranged it, we will create an atmosphere of a water garden, not a swamp garden, we will successfully “tie” all the small details to the pond as the center of the composition. Near the reservoir, you can use a lot of coastal, floating and aquatic plants, among which, of course, there will certainly be their queen -.
The choice depends on what kind of body of water you have (area, depth, nature of the bottom). But I think that it is during the design that you need to set a goal: to grow ... And then we rely on our material and physical abilities.
Small architectural forms and can be both traditional (preferably taking into account high humidity), and creative, shocking. For example, these:
Well, summer residents who are not prone to extreme sports will probably like the classic stories more: 
I think I managed to convince you that a swampy summer cottage can become cozy, comfortable, and outwardly attractive. I wonder how you solved and solve such problems?
"Fifteen
years ago I started learning
inherited land on a peat bog. This case turned out to be not simple.
(I had to study the relevant literature) and very laborious. I'll tell you how
drain the swamp suburban area. Maybe my experience to someone
come in handy." Here is a letter sent to our website by Gennady Veselov from
Leningrad region. Here is his story.
Peaty-marshy soils are little cultivated in our country. Together with
so they can bring good yields. Naturally, when they should
processed in a manner. The disadvantages of a summer cottage on a peat bog are known. This is
methane saturation in the soil of swamp gas and lack of oxygen, as well as
proximity to the surface of groundwater. Therefore, to the question, a plot on a peat bog - what to do, the answer is
the correct solution to the problem is simple: enriching the soil with oxygen, getting rid of
methane and a decrease in the level of groundwater.
how
drain the swamp in the country, where to start? I had the first summer to dig drainage
ditches 50 cm wide and 70 to 140 cm deep. They must be dug with a slope of approximately
in 1 cm for one running meter. Brushwood was laid at the bottom of the ditches. Branches covered
old roofing felt, which remained with me after re-roofing. On the
roofing felt laid dry grass, which
mowed before the appearance of seeds, so that the summer cottage is not overgrown with weeds. This grass
fell asleep with crushed dry peat, and laid the excavated soil on top, so that
turned out to be a small hill. After its precipitation, bedding was almost not required.
The arrangement of such drainage ditches in a summer cottage made it possible to make the land more
loose, get rid of methane gas and lower the water table.
How to drain a swamp to make beds in a country house
plot.
Peat is known to be a source of nitrogen needed for plant development. But
while it lies in a compressed layer, there is no benefit from it. However, it cost
dig it up and grind it, as, having taken a sip of oxygen, bacteria have earned,
turning peat into land suitable for planting. Of course, and here it was necessary
work hard. After all, in order to get good harvests, at their summer cottage
draining the swamp is not enough. Necessary
clay, sawdust from a cow farm and sand were introduced into the soil. The first few
years, we had to feed our peat bog also with mineral fertilizers with additives
trace elements.
Peat
retains moisture well and is an excellent mulch. Its top layer (3-5 cm)
must be kept dry. This will save your garden from pests and diseases, and the garden from
tedious weeding. In addition, peat soils freeze and thaw.
slowly and do not freeze deeply. Therefore, in our beds, in place of the drained
swamps, plants have never frozen even during winters with little snow and frost.
Thus, having drained the swamp at the dacha, I managed to
create here in a few years fertile soil, which is suitable for
cultivation of most agricultural crops. Moreover, by ennobling
plot, planted on it plums, apple trees, cherries, pears, sea buckthorn and chokeberry
mountain ash, which began to give abundant harvests. So that garden plot on the
peat bog - this is quite feasible. You just need to put your hands on it.
Yes, you identified all the problems and answered my questions. Just in case, here is a link, a very old one - just a mirror of your thoughts. http://sadovod-sadovodu.ru/osushenie_uchastka.html . I just wanted to find out about the soil features. What is the depth of the water well, did you get to the bottom of the sandy layers when digging the well. If there is water-bearing sand, prefabricated wells can also be arranged. The very first thing is about boundary grooves (simple open-type drainage) .. It is useless to simply clear them - deepen them by two bayonets, add crushed stone or ASG + drainage pipes or the method by reference. Cover with geotextile from above to prevent drainage holes from being blocked. Fall asleep NOT GROUND. There is personal experience drainage of a site with a slope. Dug on three bayonets layer. drainage pipes in the zone of furrows between raised ridges. Section 4 branches. Across the exit of these pipes there is a drainage ditch, protected by slate from being washed out and observing a slope from neighbors. 10 years of work. Previously, until July, they walked in rubber boots. Neighbors continue to swim (too lazy) and in that area, in slippers, even after showers and spring thaw. Deviation to start doing from the very high point. And how much do you plan to raise the soil on the site? Or just the perimeter? P.S.About what I have in the bowels of the earth, I can only judge by the memory of last year's burying of the well rings. I did not dig myself, I hired 4 guys. It's not the first time they've been doing this. 5 rings were buried. The very first one was almost completely gone downstairs into something gray-black, very liquid. And at first there was a black fertile field, about a meter, maybe a little less. Then went loam, heterogeneous, interspersed different color.. black, reddish, gray ... After that, there was loam, but not dry. Raw and sticky. The guys said it was not clay. After some rabble went again gray color, which became more and more damp and dirtier to the bottom. At first, I carried on a wheelbarrow around the site what they got with buckets from the well, and after that it was useless to deliver, and what they got was half water and half dirt, and the work began to boil so that I interfered with them more with a wheelbarrow. After my observations of the process, I was left with a heavy feeling. The fact that I saw the composition of what I have underground did not inspire me at all. Everything is very liquid, dirty and indistinct. But I still have a house here.
After the loam, there was either very fine sand, or silt, or all together. And at the very bottom, probably just liquid silt. In my unprofessional opinion, I would rate it as such. In any case, what was taken out last and dumped right next to the well looked like jelly for a long time. The fraction is very small.Boundary drainage grooves ... I strongly doubt that it is possible and necessary to dig and bury something in them. Because: their edges are constantly crumbling; they are constantly washed away; water doesn't go anywhere. Even if I have a fortified perimeter and stop shedding from my side, then it’s not realistic to force the neighbors to do it. It washes them both as a result of shedding and when the water is still poorly flowing. In general, the ditches swim around before our eyes. Now, when the level has dropped a little, the remaining water is already just standing in the ditches. She has nowhere to go. The entire drainage / reclamation system in ST is mercilessly neglected. And it's littered with rubbish. I have no opportunity to fight the mess and desolation on such a scale. This time is needed free and funds are not measured, etc. I think it’s easier, better and more logical to put your efforts into finding out the possibilities of your site in terms of “recycling” water.
Sori, for possibly amateurish questions, but if I understood correctly, then the water does not actively go into the ground due to the waterproof layer. In my case, it looks like loam. And under the waterproof layer there is a water-absorbing layer, I understand correctly? So I need to find out what is the depth of the loam and what is under it? That is, when installing "autonomous" drainage, without draining water outside the site, I will need to drill wells below the loam so that the water can sink to the water-absorbing layer, which is located below? This layer will "receive" the running water through the well .. right?)
I plan to first deal with the perimeter of the site, fix it from erosion and sprawl. I want to bury tires from trucks into the perimeter, laying them along the perimeter in a chain flat in several layers vertically. I will fill the tires with sand and earth. The sand is where the fence posts will then stand in the buried tires, and the earth is where there will be no posts. Last fall, I put one post on the corner like this, for the experiment. I wanted to see how he would get through the winter. This is how it looks like:
.
I want to raise the site approximately to the height of the tires, maybe a little more. Because I want to lay tires in the base, and pour earth on top. There are no other options yet. I don't see them, to be honest. The fact is that this site is more than 40 years old. and during this time a lot of things were brought here by cars. Earth, peat, manure, sand... But looking at the site, you can't tell. Everything has gone somewhere .. Just like the Bermuda Triangle) That's why the measures are so radical and unconventional. I don’t know how it will work yet, but I really want to try)You can try in the "dry" summer-autumn period, after all, to drill control pits from several places (in the lowest places, it is necessary) - the depth - if realistic - to the sand layer. The goal is to find out the thickness of the water-resistant layer. But I'm afraid it's deep. Manually - up to 3.0 m with nozzles - really. Deeper - I don’t know, then the idea can be set aside. And on the border with the upper section (if there is one), a ditch - up to 1.0 meters deep - drainage preparation of the bottom - with a slope in one direction or in two halves - you know better. And bring it to the boundary. They did the same - it worked. The effect is not immediately - for the second season. Why such a high GWL? Do you have a body of water nearby? Was it always this damp? In the section about which I wrote above, "bogging" after a significant increase in GWL is caused by an increase in the level of the constructed asphalt road. Which everyone was extremely happy about. Only a year later, everyone - both to the left and to the right of her swam.Last year I drilled with a hand drill up to 2 meters. Loam. Water rushing still not reaching a meter deep. The drill is very hard to get. It literally sucks him in. Alternatively, you can try drilling with drills of different diameters. Drill larger first, then smaller.
I want to clarify a little .. It is not necessary to count on the assistance of neighbors. Therefore, you will have to be limited only to the boundaries of your site. Neither the locality, nor the initiative of the neighbors is conducive to another. Alas. Checked.
Water stands high because it has nowhere to drain further. This is the lowland, if I may say so.
It was almost always like that. At least, as long as I remember myself here.
At the ends of our street in ST (my house and a plot in the middle of it), there are two ponds. One without inputs and outputs, and the second is included in the system of ditches and drains. But, as I wrote above, the whole system is running completely. And no one is going to revive her. The grooves run along the boundaries of other people's sections. And as you know, you can't get there on your own.
As I understand it, according to the principle of matching vessels, now the water level has equalized everywhere. Therefore, the movement in the grooves stopped. The pond, which is included in the drainage system, also has an outlet. But it seems to be running so much that water no longer flows out of it. And yes, it has nowhere to go. Then everything is running too. In short, the problem of drainage on the scale of ST. Fighting her is bad business. And if fighting with the neglect of the ditches themselves is half the battle, then fighting with people is a completely different matter. And as practice has shown, it is useless. Nobody cares.If not a secret, which road are we talking about?
Peatland is considered a soil type that is extremely unattractive in terms of agricultural cultivation. This attitude is due to a combination of several factors. For example, this is the saturation of the inner layers of the soil with methane and, accordingly, the lack of oxygen, which is so necessary for the root system of plants.
But the main disadvantage is the very close occurrence of groundwater, which is why during the autumn-spring floods the site often turns into a real impenetrable swamp. However, with the right approach to soil cultivation, even a frequently flooded peat bog can become a source of good harvests. We will tell you how to drain the swamp in the country, the area around it, what the drainage of swamps leads to and how to prepare the soil for planting horticultural crops.
So, the owner of a site located on a peat bog has three primary tasks: to drain it, having achieved a lowering of the groundwater level, to reduce the methane content in the soil, to enrich it with oxygen.
The first step is to plan, of course, drainage work. How is it possible without special costs reduce the level of humidity in the suburban area? So far, it has not been invented for this better way than drainage ditches. However, in our case, their device has some features.
So, first you have to prepare trenches about half a meter wide. The depth depends on the level of groundwater. Given the value of this indicator, which is typical for the Central part of Russia, we can say that successful drainage can be achieved at a depth of 0.7 to 1.4 m. An improvement in the conditions for moisture removal is facilitated by a slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter.
The bottom of the drainage recesses is covered with brushwood, on top of which a layer is laid waterproofing material. This can be the most common roofing material, and not necessarily new, already used, removed from the re-roofed, etc. will do.
The next layer consists of dry grass. You will need a lot of raw materials for this, so, most likely, you will have to mow not only in the summer cottage, but also in the adjacent uncultivated areas, along roads, in the forest, etc. However, this must be done in a timely manner - before the weeds fade and form seeds. Otherwise, after some time, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe garden will be covered with wild herbs and it will be much more difficult to deal with them than on a regular plot.
The grassy mass must be covered with dry crushed peat, after which the soil removed during digging is returned to the trenches. As the ditches are filled, their contents must be carefully tamped, then at the end of the work there will be almost no excess land left.
But if this nevertheless happens, then it is quite possible to arrange small mounds in the place of the drainage passages - after several rains, as a result of precipitation, they will almost be equal to the total surface. This option even saves the owner of the site from the extra hassle associated with the need for periodic backfilling of the soil.
The device of such an unusual drainage system allows not only to reduce the volume of groundwater in the summer cottage, but also to rid the soil of excess methane, to give it the necessary looseness, which in the future will have a positive effect on the aeration of the beds.
Draining peat bogs is only the first step towards creating fertile vegetable gardens. Further, serious work is to be done on the preparation of drained soil. This matter is even more troublesome than draining the site, while the owner will need remarkable diligence and patience, since a decent result will have to wait at least several years.
The main type of work is digging. Peat is very rich in nitrogen, which is a vital element for agricultural plants. The only problem is that while the peatland is a densely compressed mass, air access to the deep layers is limited, and without contact with oxygen, nitrogen remains inert. Digging the soil just solves this problem.
Since it is desirable to affect not only the surface part of the soil, it will be very difficult to handle a large area manually in an appropriate way. It is best to use for these purposes the means of garden mechanization - motor cultivators.
In parallel, it is possible to solve the problem of turning a peat bog into land suitable for growing vegetables. To do this, when digging, clay and sand must be introduced into the soil, the amount of which is determined by the density of peat deposits. You can not do without enriching the soil with mineral fertilizers, microelements, as well as organic matter - cow dung mixed with sawdust.
This way you can get a good vegetable garden. And this is exactly what you were striving for and what draining the swamps can lead to! However, this may take several years. But over time, the site will surely thank its owner, because peatlands are characterized not only by disadvantages, they also have advantages.
For example, they retain moisture well, and in winter they freeze gradually and do not reach too great depths, so that perennials and plants planted before winter are well protected even with a small amount of snow and low temperatures. So some pluses.
Soil preparation on the territory consists of several stages, one of which is the draining of the swampy area. Dehumidification or drainage is carried out in order to regulate water regime in a place that is flooded with water due to high groundwater.
In order to drain the moistened plot of land, in addition to the drainage system, a well is arranged to collect water.
There are also cases when the site is located in a lowland, then it becomes necessary to drain excess water that has accumulated after floods or heavy rains.
Features of the drainage system
A swamp, as a drained area suitable for further exploitation, is rarely equipped with drainage ditches. This method can be used if the swamp is located in low-lying or straight areas where it is impossible to lay drainage pipes due to the lack of slope.
Diagram of the drainage system.
In swampy, flat areas, a canal is dug at the foot of a hill to lower the water level. Drainage can be done independently by digging channels 1-1.5 m deep. To strengthen the walls and prevent them from shedding, a cement screed is laid or they are made at an inclination of 30 ° if the work is to be done on clay kidneys. Channels require regular cleaning to prevent stagnant water flow.
The solution of underground pipes looks more aesthetically attractive. The modern construction market offers plastic and concrete pipes, which are laid in trenches.
Plastic pipes due to their flexibility are more popular and often used. The joints of the individual elements are not welded, leaving small holes so that water can seep into the ground.
The pipe for removing moisture must have a diameter of at least 8 cm for side outlets, 10 cm for the main one.
Side pipes are laid at a frequency of 1-5 m to the main pipe, if the work is carried out on loamy soil, and 7 m for a sandy area, 10-12 m between the side pipes.
They are connected to the central pipe at an angle of 70°. Such a slope in the area is able to carry out free flow to the central pipe.
Most optimal size for a trench is a width of 0.5 m and a depth of 1 m. When digging a ditch, the upper earth is set aside, since it is a fertile layer that can later be used. After laying the system, the top layer is poured into place at a slope to ensure the angle of moisture inflow.
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The process of building a drainage system
Scheme of the drainage system.
Drainage is equipped with digging a ditch. The slope of the bottom of the ditch is determined using the building level, beacons and rails. Before proceeding with the laying of pipes, the bottom is shaped into a tray by tamping and smoothing. Crumpled greasy clay does this task best.
After doing this stage works, the bottom of the ditch on the site is filled up by 5-7 cm broken brick or gravel. The assembly of the structure from pipes, as well as their laying, is carried out from the central pipe. Pottery type pipes are equipped with holes. If you plan to use asbestos-cement pipes, you must independently make cuts about 1/3 of the diameter long and 1 cm wide. The width between the cuts is 10-15 cm. Pipe laying in the area is done with cuts up. Experts recommend filling the structure with a layer of gravel from above so that the pipe is in the sleeve. At the final stage, soil is poured from above, having previously covered the joints of the pipes to avoid clogging.
If there is an underground drainage system on the site, pay attention to the depth of tillage during cultivation in order to avoid damage to the system and waterlogging of the site.
If there are places on the site where it is impossible to drain by the method of open ditches or underground drainage with pipes, a brick drainage is constructed. Brick drainage is channels with a section of 12x12 cm. The bottom of such channels is covered with greasy clay. To do this, they dig a trench up to a meter deep along the site with a direction to the well. Up to half of the trench is filled with brick or gravel and covered with soil. As a result of such actions, you get a ditch filled with a porous material that allows water to pass through, moving it towards the well.
