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Country and garden work in July. Useful tips and advice from an experienced gardener

At the dacha in July, we are waiting for large-scale work to care for plantings. In the middle of summer, the weather is hot, so it is better to do things in the garden in the mornings or in the evenings so as not to overheat. The main forces now should be thrown into watering plants, weeding, harvesting.

Garden work in July

As we noted above, watering plantings is extremely important in hot summer. But an excess of moisture can be just as harmful to plants as its deficiency, so abrupt transitions should not be allowed. Each horticultural crop has its own need for moisture. For example, mature trees are watered abundantly, but not too often, and it is better to water young trees more often, followed by loosening the soil under them.

It is worth considering that not every plant is useful for getting moisture on the leaves, as this can cause the development of the fungus.

Trees are watered in a furrow, which is formed around the crown along the border of the plant. It is best to form two grooves about fifteen centimeters deep. To conserve moisture, lay out mulch in the near-trunk circles or sow green manure (lupins, mustard, phacelia, etc.) behind them. The latter method is most suitable for mature trees older than six years.

Abundant watering requires raspberries, because the size and taste of the berries will depend on this. Work on watering your favorite berry can be done twice a week, pouring about four buckets per meter of plantings.

When watering cherries it is necessary to pour out so much water to moisten a one and a half meter layer of earth - about ten buckets, avoiding drops of water on the crown.

July is the time for pruning fruit trees in the garden. Removing defective and extra shoots now will not harm the plants at all. Pruning is especially necessary for young trees, in which the shoots need to be shortened regularly for proper, healthy development. For adult trees, summer pruning will help form as many fruit buds as possible, increase frost resistance.

Paying attention to the plum, because plum codling moth is now activated - a dangerous pest for fruit trees, and many other diseases. We process trees three weeks before harvest. For pathogenic lesions, we inspect the pears, immediately removing the affected fruits from the branches. We fight with the sucker with the help of Fufanon or Kemifors, we wash the crowns with water from a hose.

It is necessary to take care of apple trees in the garden which already delight us with their fruits. Under their weight, branches can be injured, so let's get down to work on protecting them. Remove excess fruit, put props under the branches, destroy the carrion. To prevent diseases, carry out spraying work, check the traps. To lay the harvest for next year, feed the apple trees with complex fertilizers or a solution of bird droppings. It is desirable to mulch the soil in near-stem circles.

In addition, it's time to start preparing beds for strawberries, as well as the cultivation of planting material. Separate the mustache from the uterine bushes, in the last week of the month, start planting on pre-prepared areas in the country. We recommend planting on a cloudy day or choosing evening time for such work. It is desirable to dig seedlings together with an earthen clod, then immediately transplant to the optimal depth. The roots should not be bent, so straighten them carefully.

This is not the whole list of work in the garden in July. also to be done:

  • collection and processing of currants, raspberries, gooseberries, early cherries. Harvest the currant crop taking into account the maturity of the berries. Ripe fruits remain on the branches for a very short time, but this applies only to black currants. Ripe berries of white and red currants can remain on the bush for another month. Remove raspberries immediately after ripening, too;
  • immediately after picking berries, you can start working on removing old shoots from gooseberry and currant bushes to make room for new branches. Similar work is required for blackberries and raspberries. Pin new shoots at a height of one meter;
  • now we will prepare a place for new berry plantations in the garden, if required;
  • we deal with grapes in the country - we water, feed it, remove excess leaves and shoots;
  • since during this period most harmful insects are activated, it is necessary to regularly check the trapping belts, inspect the plants for lesions;
  • still need to perform work on the rooting of cuttings of shrubs on the site. Shoots bent for reproduction require watering and hilling;
  • we must not forget about regular thorough weeding.

Here is the main work plan for the July days in the garden. But that's not all, because we also have to deal with vegetables and flowers.

What to do in July in the garden

The main work in July in the garden, as well as in the garden, is watering.

If you have the opportunity to come to the dacha only on weekends, you should take care to protect the planting from the heat. To do this, you can take the following steps:

  • use covering materials in the garden, such as film or paper, which should be laid between the rows after watering. If possible, use straw or hay as a cover for planting in the garden, which has excellent water-holding capacity. Before watering, the shelter is removed;
  • when you finish watering the plantings, loosen the ground to ensure the flow of oxygen to the root system;
  • do not weed on particularly hot days, as weeds in such weather will help keep the vegetables out of the sun, although they will absorb some moisture. Here you have to choose the lesser of two evils;
  • water plantings not often, but plentifully (to a depth of 50-60 cm);
  • Ideally, garden watering work should be done in the morning or in the evening, but not at night, so that the drops evaporate before dusk and cause fungal diseases.

In the garden in July days, we recommend that you come to grips with greenhouses, because tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers become especially vulnerable to diseases. If late blight prevention has not been carried out in the country before, the disease can affect potatoes, and then other crops.

on potatoes it is relatively not difficult to overcome late blight - spray the tops with a copper-containing solution. Treat tomatoes as well if they grow outdoors.

Tomatoes in greenhouses treated with iodine solution, removing previously infected leaves. Repeat the procedure after three days, and after another week, spray the fruits with a solution of calcium chloride - this will help protect them from late blight.

Do not eat the sprayed fruit for at least three weeks.

At the end of the month, they are engaged in work on topping tomatoes. At the dacha in July, the tops of hybrids and tall varieties are cut off, flowers and buds are cut off so that the existing fruits grow. Reducing the influx of nutrients will help speed up their maturation. To do this, simply cut off some of the roots, stop feeding and water less.

Notice the peppers in the garden. If you notice a white coating on the stems, this is stem rot, which can lead to wilting. Wipe the affected area with a dry cloth, treat with a solution of manganese, then ash. If the fruits are affected by fruit rot, pour the peppers with a solution of calcium nitrate with the addition of a small amount of potassium without chlorine. Similarly, eggplants and tomatoes are processed in the garden.

Cucumbers may suffer in the middle of summer. The spider mite, which settles on the inside of the leaves, causes great damage to them. The light shade of the leaves and their gradual death will tell about its appearance. Specialized preparations are used against the pest, for example, the non-chemical agent Fitoverm and garlic infusion.

It is worth doing work to protect plantings from vegetable flies and cabbage flies. Here Fitoverm will come to the rescue again. You can also cover the plantings with lutrasil, and sew gauze covers for cauliflower. Neither slugs, nor worms, nor garden insects can penetrate into such bags.

In addition, in the garden in the middle of summer, we will have other work to do:

  • in the middle of the month, we start collecting young zucchini until they have grown in length more than 20 cm. To harvest seeds, on the contrary, we wait until the fruits reach their maximum size. Remember, hybrids don't propagate by seed;
  • at the end of the month, you can already start harvesting the onion if its leaves have died and turned yellow. On the same basis, determine the optimal time for harvesting garlic in the country. Remember that about three weeks before the onion is harvested, watering should be stopped;
  • for the last time we are engaged in work on thinning root crops;
  • shorten the loops of pumpkin bushes over the third leaf after the ovary, remove side shoots without ovaries, do not forget to water in a timely manner. Experienced gardeners recommend leaving shoots on which no more than three ovaries are formed;
  • in the vacated places in the garden, you can sow a radish or turnip. In the first weeks of the month, kohlbari and Beijing cabbage are usually planted. To choose the most favorable dates for this work, study the gardener's lunar calendar for July;
  • carry out a test digging of potatoes in the last week of the month;
  • do not forget to check the temperature and humidity levels in your greenhouses in the country.
  • the right period has come for harvesting soil for seedlings, river sand, humus, compost. To do this, form a substrate of peat (about 35 cm), lay the compost, laying all layers with peat, and every two layers with slurry. After forty-five days, the heap is shoveled. The compost will be ready in a year.

So, the work in the garden and garden in July is very impressive. But you still need to take care of the flowers that create beauty and comfort in the garden.

Works in the flower garden in July

It's time to start sowing seeds biennials and perennials in flower beds in the garden. It is also necessary to continue caring for clematis, checking soil moisture, feeding them with minerals or manure.

Our close attention in July will require chrysanthemums, lilacs and roses, which aphids are affected. Infusions of herbs will help to destroy pests, and with extensive damage - chemicals.

In the middle of the month, it's time to dig up bulbous crops.. The bulbs are thoroughly cleaned from the ground and sent under a canopy for drying in a room with well-ventilated.

At the end of the month you can do dividing iris.

It is necessary to tie up tall flowers, feed and water the peonies well after they complete flowering. Annuals and perennials are fed with mineral fertilizers about once every ten days, in the evenings they water, loosen and mulch the soil. Don't delay removing weeds. If you don't plan on harvesting the seeds from the flowers, cut out the faded parts.

Now is the best time for cutting roses. Cut off the faded stems, cut the cuttings from their middle part. Flowers such as hydrangeas, as well as some conifers, are also propagated by green cuttings.

Treatment with a solution of copper oxychloride (0.5%) or Bordeaux mixture (1%) will help protect flower cultures from fungus. As a preventive measure, such spraying is recommended to be performed weekly.

That's the whole approximate list of work in the country in July. Take care of the site with pleasure, because such work really brings positive emotions, if you strictly follow the plan and, if possible, avoid unforeseen situations.

In July, there is a lot of work in the garden - have time to pay attention to each plant. Watering, subcorking, pinching, re-sowing - this is a far from complete list of what needs to be done in the July garden.

Watering in July

Since July is a hot month, it is imperative to provide the plants with plenty of moisture. You can water in the evening or in the morning, but not in the heat. An exception here can only be cauliflower - its cabbages in the heat need to be sprayed with water every 30-40 minutes.

Water the soil so that it gets wet to a depth of at least 30 cm. For those who have problems with water in the area, we advise you to use mulching materials (for example, straw, sawdust, etc.) - this way you can save precious moisture in the soil and water less frequently.

Always combine watering with loosening the soil, do not allow the formation of a crust on its surface .

Cucumber care in July

In July, you can already harvest the first crop of cucumbers. At the same time, increase the watering dose, bringing it to 12 liters per 1 m2 every 2 days.

You can also make top dressing - 1 tbsp. l. nitroammophoski per 10 liters of water, at a solution consumption rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

Pepper now also needs watering, better than daily. It is necessary to pour 1-2 liters of water under the bush.

When the pepper plants reach a height of 18-22 cm, remove the top of the main stalk - this will stimulate the branching of the plant. After that, leave the 5 most developed shoots, remove the rest.

Need pepper and top dressing. 1 st. l. dilute nitroammofoski in a bucket of water, pour 1 liter of solution under each plant.

Tomato care in July

Tomatoes should be watered about 1 time in 4-5 days, soaking the soil well with moisture. You can also feed tomatoes: 1 liter of nitroammophoska solution under the root (1 tablespoon per 1 bucket of water).

Pea care in July

It's time to harvest peas in July. You should start cleaning it in the morning, so it will not fade for a long time. After harvesting peas (in mid-July), any green ones can be sown in its place.

Caring for zucchini in July

The second half of July is also the time of harvesting zucchini. The main thing is not to let them outgrow and become rude. It is worth harvesting all fruits that have reached a length of 20 cm.

Onions and garlic: care in July

With mass yellowing and lodging of onions (which is often observed already at the end of July), you can start digging and drying its bulbs. The main thing is not to dry them out, otherwise they will lie badly. Pay attention to garlic. If the leaves turn yellow and begin to dry out, then it's time to clean it up.

pumpkin care in july

At the end of July, you can remove all pumpkin side shoots that do not have ovaries. All other shoots must be sprinkled with damp soil, stepping back from the main shoot 1.5 m. Such a simple technique will allow the pumpkin to ripen faster and become even tastier.

eggplant in july

On eggplants, all shoots that are located below the very first flowers should be removed, and the soil should be sprinkled with wood ash with a layer of 0.5 cm. It is advisable to remove all excess fruits, except for the laid 3-4.

In the last days of July, you can start digging up early potatoes, checking their degree of maturity. In place of the potatoes that you dig up, sow mustard, rapeseed or radish - take care of the soil.

Re-seeding in July

In July, beds are often freed from early crops. So that the place is not empty, you can sow radish, daikon or turnip on them. Calculate the time so that the moment of harvesting falls at the end of September.

Seed propagation in the garden strawberry familiar to us, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries - alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's learn about the main advantages and disadvantages of this crop, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether it is worth giving her a place in the berry.

Often, at the sight of a beautiful flower, we instinctively bend over to smell its fragrance. All fragrant flowers can be divided into two large groups: nocturnal (pollinated by nocturnal butterflies) and daytime, whose pollinators are mainly bees. Both groups of plants are important for the grower and designer, because we often walk in the garden during the day and relax in our favorite corners with the onset of the evening. We are never put off by the fragrance of our favorite fragrant flowers.

Pumpkin is considered by many gardeners to be the queen of the beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for its excellent taste, useful qualities and a rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Due to the possibility of long-term storage, this vegetable maintains our health all year round. If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your site, you will be interested to know how to get the largest possible harvest.

Scotch eggs are amazing! Try to cook this dish at home, there is nothing difficult to prepare. Scotch eggs are a hard boiled egg wrapped in minced meat, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried. For frying, you need a frying pan with a high rim, and if you have a deep fryer, then it's just great - even less hassle. You will also need deep-frying oil so as not to smoke the kitchen. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.

One of the most amazing large-flowered tub cubanola Dominican fully justifies the status of a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bells of flowers, cubanola is a fragrant star with a difficult character. It requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, the best (and more chocolatey) candidate for the role of indoor giant cannot be found.

Chickpea Curry with Meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare, but requires pre-preparation. Chickpeas must first be soaked in plenty of cold water for several hours, preferably overnight, the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat in the marinade overnight so that it turns out juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until tender and then cook the curry according to the recipe.

Rhubarb can not be found in every garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jams, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruit and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, reminiscent of burdock, acts as a beautiful backdrop for annuals. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.

Today, experiments with non-banal combinations and non-standard colors in the garden are in trend. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and a position. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to the range of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.

3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage and meat sandwich - a great idea for a quick snack or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and a little spice. There is no onion in these sandwiches, if you wish, you can add an onion marinated in balsamic vinegar to any of the sandwiches, this will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, it remains to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.

Depending on the variety group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, medium ripening - 55-60 and late terms - at least 70 days. When planting seedlings of tomatoes at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.

Unpretentious plants of the "second plan" sansevieria do not seem boring to those who appreciate minimalism. They are better than other indoor decorative foliage stars for collections that require minimal maintenance. The stable decorative effect and extreme endurance of only one type of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very fast growth - Khan's rosette sansevieria. The squat rosettes of their stiff leaves create striking clusters and patterns.

One of the brightest months of the garden calendar pleasantly surprises with the balance of the distribution of favorable and unsuccessful days for working with plants according to the lunar calendar. In June, gardening and gardening can be done throughout the month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do useful work. There will be their optimal days for sowing with plantings, and for pruning, and for a pond, and even for construction work.

Meat with mushrooms in a pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a festive menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken too, so this meat is preferable for the recipe. Mushrooms - fresh champignons, in my opinion, the best choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - mushrooms, boletus and other goodies are best harvested for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.

I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious and with an interesting, non-trivial foliage color. I have different Japanese spireas, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry ... And there is one special shrub that I will talk about in this article - the viburnum vesicle. To make my dream of a low maintenance garden come true, it's probably the perfect fit. At the same time, it is able to diversify the picture in the garden very much, moreover, from spring to autumn.

Your garden: work of the month.

By the beginning of July, the growth of annual shoots ends in fruit trees. At this time, watering should be reduced so as not to cause a second wave of growth. In dry, hot weather, you will have to water once every 2 weeks, but in moderate doses. And then loosen the soil, mulch. If you notice shoots still growing in the crown, pinch them.

July work on a strawberry plantation

In a strawberry plantation, after harvest, remove the whiskers if they are not needed for breeding or row filling. All excess whiskers must be removed from the plantation no later than the beginning of August. Remove all weeds at the same time.

Apply a complete mineral fertilizer to the cleaned soil: 10-15 g of urea, 40-60 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate per 1 linear meter of row spacing.

It is useful to sprinkle humus or compost closer to the bushes. Loosen the soil between the rows to a depth of 10 cm. Spud the bushes lightly, raking the earth to the horns for better root formation.

If strawberries have suffered from pests (mites, weevils), you can spray them with fufanon-nova. Against diseases, you can add 30 g of homa (or abiga-peak) or 100 g of colloidal sulfur.

For the destruction of ticks and the prevention of disease, it is effective to mow the affected leaves and mustaches immediately after fruiting. It is impossible to be late with pruning: the bushes must recover and prepare for winter.

Immediately after mowing and removing leaves, the plantation should be sprayed with one of the insecticides (fufanon, actellik, colloidal sulfur or thiovit jet), adding abiga-peak or hom, zircon or agate 25-K. After that, apply complex fertilizers, water and loosen the aisles.

If you are leaving the leaves, remove the tendrils, except for those you need for seedlings. The rest of the activities are the same as those recommended after mowing the leaves.

Pollinate remontant varieties twice in July with freshly slaked lime or ash from slugs (20 g per sq. M).

Currant

Powdery mildew, anthracnose, septoria blight may appear on the currant after the end of the harvest. Against American powdery mildew, topaz (2 g) or colloidal sulfur (30 g per 10 l of water) or thiovit jet (20-30 g) can be used. Thiovit Jet can also be used on gooseberries, despite the fact that this is also a sulfuric preparation.

Raspberries

On raspberries, after harvesting, cut off the fruiting shoots to the ground. From pests, spray with fufanon, from diseases - abiga-peak or hom.

Cherry

Cherries after harvesting must be protected from moniliosis (cut off dried branches, spray the crown with chorus), coccomycosis (yellowed and fallen leaves) and other fungal diseases (hom), from cherry mucous sawfly (kinmiks).

Cherries

In July, form a crown of young cherries. Cut into the ring the branches directed inside the crown, thickening. Shorten too long annual growths (more than 50 cm). Treat slices with garden pitch. For trees that have come into bearing, cut out the central conductor at a height of 2-2.5 m.

Pear

If pear seedlings do not grow well, check if the root neck is deepened during planting, if you are over-wetting the soil.

Plum

In plums, the main pest in July is the plum codling moth, which began to harm it back in June (the first generation), and in the first decade of July, the caterpillars of the first generation go to pupate under the lagging bark, into the cracks of the stems, into the soil, weave cocoons there and pupate. 8-10 days later (mid-July)
butterflies of the second generation emerge, lay their eggs on the fruits of late varieties. After 4-8 days, caterpillars hatch, damaging the fruits.

Apple tree

On summer varieties of apple trees, pears are approaching fruit picking. Do not use chemicals on them. Against aphids, spray with infusion of garlic or succinic acid (1 g per 10 liters of water).

For better storage of fruits, spray winter varieties with extrasol (10 ml per 10 liters of water).

Don't Forget About Pests

Collect carrion daily, spray trees with fufanon (in mid-July).

Against moniliosis, clusteros-poriosis, add hom or abiga-peak insecticide to the solution.

The second generation of the codling moth also hurts in July. Damaged carrion should not be left under trees. Clean daily, along with fresh carrion, you will remove a significant part of the codling moth caterpillars from the garden.

Trapping belts on tree trunks.

Once every 10 days, look through the hunting belts on the stems of apple trees.

To combat the codling moth in the summer, it is better to use biological products:

  • lepidocid (20-30 g)
  • fitoverm (15 g)
  • bitoxibacillin (40-80 g)

Their waiting period is from 2 to 5 days. Repeat spraying after 8-10 days.

From scab, powdery mildew on an apple tree and a pear, add speed or thiovit jet to the working solution.

Feed the trees and shrubs

In the second decade of July, the laying of fruit buds begins in most horticultural crops. Take care of the future harvest and feed trees and shrubs with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m near the trunk circle. Feed along with watering. In hot, dry weather, water the garden 2 times a month.

If the branches of the trees are actively growing, make a second summer pinching: remove the tops of competitors or break them out in the same way as the top shoots. If they are needed to replenish or correct the shape of the crown, these shoots can be pulled back and tied up.

The blackberry has sprouted young shoots. In June, you pinched their tops by 4-5 cm. As a result, lateral shoots began to grow actively. Control their growth. Pinch the tops of the shoots, leaving 40 cm.

In July, currants, gooseberries, and raspberries ripen. Collect blackcurrants in a timely manner: overripe berries crack, crumble. In red and white currants, they can remain on the bushes for up to a month if there is no rain.

If you will be processing gooseberries, harvest them when slightly unripe. When fresh, they are tasty when they become soft and turn into a characteristic color for the variety.

After harvesting, water all berries and feed with full mineral fertilizer.

In July, work on budding is carried out

Budding in the butt - how it's done

At the end of July, you can start grafting apricots, peaches, but with plums, cherries, pears, and apple trees, this work can be done earlier. Prepare rootstocks for budding: clean seedling boles, water abundantly.

The easiest way is budding in the butt. Graft eyes are taken from finger-thick shoots at a distance of 10-15 cm from the base. The leaves are carefully removed, with a sharp knife cut out in the direction of growth of a graft eye, surrounded by a small area of ​​​​bark. The length of the shield is about 3 cm, the peephole is in the middle.

An incision of identical shape is made on the rootstock. An eye with a shield is placed in the incision on the rootstock. The grafting site is tied with a film tape, leaving only the kidney open.

This is what budding is in the butt.

Seasonal work in the garden. July.

The season has recently started, but already the middle of summer. Harvesting chores are added to everyday work on vegetable beds.

It would seem that there is simply no time to look at every bush in the garden. But it was not there. Someone will look out that the leaves on the pepper for some reason turned inside out. Someone will be alerted that the leaves on the cucumbers seem to be gnawed in some places.

And the leaves on the pepper, perhaps, were simply unfolded by the wind. There are varieties that have leaves on longer petioles than other varieties. Here they are shaking. We will not be able to help the plants in such a situation. In cucumbers, the leaves could damage both locusts and caterpillars of the scoop, meadow moth.

I would like to advise meticulous summer residents not to look so meticulously at their beds. Not the attention itself is alarming, but the fact that after each “oh, what happened!” cardinal measures follow: spraying the plants with everything that is in the garden first-aid kit.

It seems that summer residents do this more for their own comfort, not taking into account that any spraying with chemical pesticides weakens the immunity of plants.

Without making a diagnosis, do not take up the sprayer!

Now, especially when we have been harvesting cucumbers and zucchini for a month (and some more), we are chopping Peking and white cabbage from our garden into salads, we use protective equipment with great care: only allowed for personal subsidiary plots and only with a short period expectations.

What can harm our beds in July?

The likelihood of viral diseases is still strong. After a temperature drop, rains, dark stripes may appear on the stems of tomatoes. It's already a streak. Infection occurred earlier, and the weather only helped to manifest the disease.

But the symptoms of diseases vary depending on the viruses that “settled” in plants: these can be mosaic-yellow leaves on potato or tomato bushes, corrugated leaves on peppers, mosaic leaves and shortened internodes on cucumbers.

It is better to remove single diseased plants, and spray the rest every 7-10 days milky iodine solution(liter of skimmed milk or skim milk + 11 drops of iodine per 9 liters of water).

Foliar top dressing with microelements, spraying with phytolavin will also play a protective role. But let's not indulge in the hope that the disease will recede: there is no cure for viruses.

It is in our power only to facilitate its course, to prevent the plants from dying. If the disease manifests itself massively, it makes no sense to remove the affected plants: we continue to care for them in order to get at least some kind of harvest.

The influence of weather on the development of diseases

What diseases, pests of vegetable crops will be added to the list in July, depends on the weather. Hot, dry weather will “multiply” ticks and thrips, and therefore regular spraying of cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants with fitoverm will remain in force.

Rains, high humidity can provoke the development of peronosporosis, late blight. Alternariosis can appear on plants weakened by the virus.

Late blight on tomatoes.

With these diseases, it is no longer possible to postpone treatment with chemical fungicides.

With late blight, initially watery spots appear on the tips and along the periphery of the lower leaves, which soon necrotic and die. Under favorable conditions, the disease quickly covers all leaves, growing fruits.

Temperatures above 26 degrees, dry air inhibit the development of the disease. We must remember this so as not to treat tomatoes with copper-containing preparations in the middle of summer, when the heat is over thirty degrees.

Temperature within 18-20 degrees, the presence of dew drops, rain or irrigation water on the leaves for 8-9 hours are favorable conditions for the development of peronosporosis, or downy mildew on cucumbers.

Downy mildew (downy mildew) on cucumbers.

Watery spots limited by leaf veins quickly turn yellow, then necrotic and crack. Diseased leaves curl down along the central vein and dry up. Under favorable conditions, cucumbers can die in a few days.

Alternaria spotting can develop on tomatoes in greenhouses with high humidity. Growing dark brown spots may appear on leaves, stems, fruits.

As a prevention of late blight and early blight on tomatoes, cucumbers, as well as with a weak development of these diseases, spraying with the biological fungicide Fitosporin-M is used.

If the plants need urgent help, spraying with abiga-peak (50 g per 10 liters of water) will be more effective, but this fungicide is not used on plants at harvest time, since it has a waiting period of 20 days.

Powdery mildew on carrots

In July, the development of powdery mildew on carrots is quite possible. A gray-white coating appears on the petioles and leaves of diseased plants. If you do not take action, the leaves will turn brown, dry out, the roots, not receiving nutrition, will stop developing, become sinewy.

The disease develops in moist, warm conditions. Therefore, it is very important to thin out the carrots so that it is better ventilated, loosen or mulch the aisles.

It is better to dig up early carrots with well-formed roots at the first signs of illness, carefully wash the roots, dry them and put them in the refrigerator. Late varieties of carrots and carrots of June sowing should be processed soon, because. cleaning is still a long way off.

Powdery mildew on carrots.

Leaf parsley, leaf celery, sorrel, if any spots appear on them, we cut them off completely, feed them with complex fertilizer or organic infusion, water them, that is, we stimulate the rapid growth of young leaves.

Summer menu for beds

Paying great attention to the fight against pests and diseases of vegetable crops, do not forget that the main thing is now in something else. It is necessary to strive to ensure that the plants are comfortable even in the most adverse weather.

Plants become vulnerable to diseases after suffering stresses:

  1. temperature fluctuations
  2. hot dry weather
  3. untimely irrigation, etc.

Make sure that the soil in the beds does not dry out. Loosen the soil, mulch with organic matter to create more favorable conditions for plant roots.

Regular foliar fertilizing with complex fertilizers with microelements, humates, bishaly will help to actively grow and bear fruit for vegetable crops. Such “feeds” are especially needed during stressful periods, when plant roots do not absorb nutrients from the soil well.

Tomatoes, peppers during the period of fruit formation, it is advisable to regularly feed calcium nitrate on the leaves in order to reduce crop losses from fruit blossom rot (a tablespoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water).

Calcium in the soil may be enough, but in hot weather it is practically not absorbed by plants, and it cannot move from leaves to fruits, like some other nutrients.

Foliar phosphorus top dressing will help the fruits of tomatoes ripen faster. From 1-2 tablespoons of superphosphate we make an extract: pour a liter of hot water, insist for a day, stirring, remove from the sediment and add to a bucket of water.

If you want to harvest a crop from a cucumber bed for a long time, feed them every ten days so that the lashes continue to grow. There will be no growth, there will be no new ovaries.

For 10 liters of water we take a teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, add 0.5 liters of mullein infusion or green grass. You can do it easier - dissolve a tablespoon of complex water-soluble fertilizer in a bucket of water.

And harvest as often as possible, do not let the cucumbers outgrow. Even one giant cucumber is able to slow down the development of other fruits on the plant.

The same top dressing is also suitable for zucchini, pumpkins, but the proportion of organic infusion for them can be increased to a liter.

On other vegetable crops, refuse nitrogen fertilizing, so as not to provoke the development of diseases, the accumulation of nitrates. Feed carrots, beets with potassium sulfate (a tablespoon in a bucket of water).

Water according to the weather

Particular attention to watering. It is important to carry it out taking into account the weather, and not the irrigation schedule. On hot days, when there is intense evaporation, you may have to water more than twice a week; during hot hours, carry out illuminating watering to lower the temperature, increase the humidity of the air around the plants.

On cooler days, your "irrigation ardor" needs to be tempered. Excess water, displacing air from the soil, disrupts the physiological processes of plants, they look oppressed, although, as it seems to us, they have enough of everything: water, food, and our care.

We remove one, we sow the other

In July, we are preparing to dig up garlic, early varieties of onions planted with sets, family onions, having stopped watering two weeks before. This must be done so that the bulbs ripen well. A well-ripened onion is easily pulled out of the ground.

harvesting garlic

We dig up the garlic when the leaves turn yellow, the arrows straighten out and the “shirts” break on them. For testing, you can dig a few heads. It is better to dig with a pitchfork so as not to inadvertently damage the heads.

It is impossible to keep garlic in the ground until the heads begin to disintegrate into teeth. Such garlic will not be stored. It's better to be a little hasty with digging than to be late.

Garlic, without cutting the tops, is dried in a well-ventilated area, laid out in one layer or tied into braids and hung up.

Harvesting the onion correctly

If the heads of the onion did not appear from the ground, we will unravel it a little. This is necessary so that the bulbs ripen better, the neck becomes thinner. Such onions will be better stored.

We cut the tops not immediately after digging, but after drying. Refuse the recommended drying in the open sun. Upper juicy scales in direct sun will get burned.

You have probably had to peel bulbs with brownish juicy scales, which can later rot. This is the negative consequences of improper drying of onions - in the open sun.

Cabbage can give an additional crop

We will harvest other vegetables in July: early varieties of white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, early carrots. Having carefully cut off the crop of white cabbage and broccoli, water it, feed it with organic infusion and wait for the second harvest.

At the cut white cabbage, we will later remove the small heads that have appeared from the sinuses, leaving 1-2 of the largest ones so that they give us an additional crop.

Broccoli is released "to the wild", but we make sure that the inflorescences that form from the lateral buds do not outgrow and bloom (we cut off regularly).

After cutting off the heads of cauliflower, immediately pull out the stumps, chop and lay in the compost. It makes no sense to wait for a second harvest from cauliflower.

The vacated area can be sown with green manure. It is better if it is not mustard, which is of the same family as cabbage and is affected by some pests (for example, cruciferous flea).

For summer sowing on green manure, phacelia and oats are suitable. It is possible to get a second crop of vegetables by sowing bush asparagus beans of early ripening after cabbage. She will give a crop and improve the soil.

We dig up the carrots, wash them, dry them, put them in plastic bags and put them in the refrigerator. It does not make sense to keep weighty root crops in the garden: they will not gain taste, but will only become rough.

Fill the bed with compost or good humus and sow early varieties of cabbage (cauliflower, broccoli) there. After sowing, we will mulch the soil surface with grass, after the emergence of shoots, we will “powder” with wood ash to scare away cruciferous pests.

If re-sowing is not necessary, let the earth rest under green manure. But in any case, we do not leave the garden bed to overgrow with weeds or, even worse, roast in the sun.

A bed from which peas or beans were removed can be left for planting strawberries. Legumes are considered good predecessors of this berry crop.

At the end of July, you can sow daikon, kohlrabi cabbage for the autumn table and winter harvesting. You can choose a site for them after legumes, potatoes, early carrots, onions, garlic. Let's think in advance about the site for planting garlic.

Good predecessors of this culture are:

  • peas
  • cabbage
  • potato
  • roots

So that the bed chosen for garlic is not empty until October, it can be sown with green manure in order to dig them up in September.

And in the middle of summer you can re-plant potatoes

We dig up potatoes of the April planting and sow the area with green manure or, having improved the soil with compost, humus, sow cucumbers to do conservation at the end of summer-autumn, when the heat subsides.

If there is space and seed tubers, we plant potatoes. After planting, it is advisable to mulch the surface of the bed with grass in order to create more humid and cool (as far as possible in the July heat) conditions for the germination of tubers.

Such a bed can be watered by sprinkling before germination, without fear of the formation of a crust. By mulching we protect potatoes even after germination.

No waste, organic

Carrot, pea, bean tops, cabbage leaves (it would be nice to chop them a little with a shovel) are put in compost, sprinkled with soil and watered so that it all rots faster and turns into a good organic fertilizer.

You can also use special biological preparations for the rapid preparation of compost.

What flower growers need to take care of in July

Your flower garden: work of the month.

Faded plants, so that they remain beautiful until the end of the season, and the next year they pleased with even more abundant flowering, require our attention.

We cut off faded peduncles and flowers, feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium or complex fertilizers (under the root and along the leaves). In stressful periods (change of weather, intense heat) we will help plants to maintain immunity: we will sprinkle with solutions of humates, microelements, HB-101.

We make sure that traces of pests and diseases do not appear on the leaves, stems. Be sure to cut off (if you haven’t done it before) faded carpet plants (aubrietta, carnations, etc.).

They will give fresh shoots, and neat thick curtains will delight until late autumn. We do not leave wilted inflorescences on more powerful perennials. Having cut off the flower stalks of the delphiniums, we will definitely wait for re-blooming.

Carefully, cutting the stems of faded lilies at the same level, we will create a green background for other plants. Removing the withering baskets of gazania, calendula, tying the seeds of the snapdragon inflorescence, we not only restore the beauty of flower beds, but also prolong the flowering period of plants.

If you do this regularly, everything will not take as much time as it might seem.

Don't forget to plant new flowers

Some flowers that reproduce by self-sowing:

  • oriental poppy
  • aquilegia
  • feverfew
  • escholzia
  • nigel
  • calendula etc.

you can leave a few seed boxes - let them scatter, seedlings can always be removed or transplanted into a flower garden.

And here are the seeds of biennials:

  • middle bell
  • pansies
  • Turkish carnation
  • daisy

will have to assemble by yourself. You can immediately sow them in order to wait for flowering next season.

True, it is difficult to get seedlings in hot weather. But if you choose a site for a nursery in a semi-shady place, cover it with non-woven material on arcs, you can count on success.

Sowing biennials in the second half of summer saves us a whole season. Just do not forget about the seedlings: water, feed in time, be sure to thin out the thick seedlings so that the “youth” grows strong and strong.

It is already difficult to take care of the soil among overgrown perennials: a hoe can damage the roots and break off the stems. Therefore, having loosened the soil shallowly where it is still possible, we mulch open areas.

When caring for your favorite plants, take the time to admire them. From your admiring glances, they will become even more beautiful.

It was on the night of Ivan Kupala that our grandmothers collected herbs for amulets. Bouquets were lit in the church and hung in the house. Medicinal plants are believed to be especially curative on this day.

Well, why don't we prepare lemon balm, oregano, thyme for the winter? And just in case, go to your fern at night: it will suddenly bloom!

A fairy tale is a fairy tale, but for every summer resident there is a grain of truth in it: to find the treasure pointed to by a flowering fern, you don’t have to go far, you have already created this treasure with your own hands, in your garden, growing beautiful plants.

The middle of summer has come. What gardening activities should be scheduled in July? What work needs to be done in July in the garden? What treatments are carried out in the garden in July? The calendar of work in the garden and vegetable garden in July will depend on the weather. Usually in the Kuban, July is hot, dry weather. But, for example, July 2015 began with rains, at least in our country (Novokubansky district). The showers were followed by hot days with high humidity.

I looked at the forecast for the month of July 2019 - on the website Well, the weather! (novokubansk.nuipogoda.ru) - not a single rain for the whole month. Whether or not this prediction will come true, of course, we do not yet know. And the forecast does not promise particularly hot days yet. From these data we will “dance”, planning gardening work.

The heat creates favorable conditions for the reproduction of various pests of fruit trees and berry bushes. Possible focal colonization of our gardens by plant mites. Do not forget about the codling moth ... And one should not forget about diseases (scab, powdery mildew, others), for which such weather creates wonderful conditions. July for gardeners is not a time for rest. A lot of work, even a lot ...

Ticks on apple, pear, plum

These are red apple mites, brown pear mites, plum gall mites and others. By the way, ticks can be dealt with by simple sprinkling, if there are not so many of them. Hose over trees and shrubs. A cold stream of water will wash it off leaves and branches.

But if there are a lot of ticks, then you can’t do without treatment with biological or chemical preparations. You can use Fufanon, Fitoverm, bitoxibacillin, Preparation No. 30, and other anti-mite agents for work. Experts advise to carry out at least two treatments with a break of 7-8 days.

Diseases of trees and shrubs

If the weather is rainy, then, I think, our gardens, our plants are threatened with diseases such as gray rot and other rot. More effective drugs, such as Topaz, Decis, Thiovit Jet, will help.

July - the fight against the codling moth

Against the codling moth, I advise you to treat pears, apple trees, plums with such preparations as Strobi, Thiovit Jet, Fufanon, Delan, Bordeaux liquid. Mid-summer, July, is the best time for processing. Do not want to use chemistry, use biological products - Fitoverm, Lepidocid, Agrovertin, others.

Remember that any chemical treatments should be stopped 2.5-3 weeks before harvest. Biological products do not accumulate fruits, they are harmless to humans, so try to use them better for garden work.

July - work with currant bushes, gooseberries

After harvesting currants, gooseberries, one must not forget about preparing plants for the next year's harvest. Right now you need to feed the bushes with fertilizers, as fruit buds are being laid. A mixture of mineral fertilizers for 1 sq. m prepare this: urea - 10 g, superphosphate - 20 g, potassium salt - 6-10 g. Mix the mixture with the soil under the bushes.

There are no more berries on the bushes, so experts advise treating gooseberries and currants with 1% Bordeaux liquid from fungal diseases and pests.

July - raspberry care

There are many varieties of raspberries, the ripening time is extended for the whole summer. But there are those from which the harvest has already been harvested. Immediately after the harvest, cut out all the fruiting shoots. Sick and pest-damaged shoots should also be cut. Try to cut them to the ground, do not leave stumps. In order not to think about pests, burn all cut shoots. And just like currants and gooseberries, fill the soil under the bushes with mineral fertilizers. The proportions for raspberries are as follows - 6-8 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt - this amount is calculated per 1 sq.m.

July - work in the vineyard

Everything, of course, will depend on the weather, the presence or absence of pests, diseases. Against mildew (fungal disease), treat grapes with 1% Bordeaux liquid or any copper-containing preparation (HOM, Copper Chloroxide, Polychom, Oxych, others).

2-3 weeks before the berries ripen, feed the grape bushes with a solution of mineral fertilizers - 15-20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium salt per bucket of water. You can spray the grapes on the leaves with an immunocytophyte solution. This drug will increase the resistance of the crop to diseases, feed it, as it includes urea.

Watering fruit trees and shrubs

If July is too hot, the heat will dry out the soil, do not forget that dry land will adversely affect the next year's harvest. Therefore, summer watering of the garden is required. For 1 sq. m near the trunk circle should account for at least 50-60 liters of water with the obligatory subsequent loosening.

Preparing a place for new beds

And further. Do not forget to prepare a place for laying a new plantation of strawberries (strawberries). It's time to dig up a place for future beds.

I hope that everyone will have time to carry out the necessary work in the garden on time! Then July will not let you down!