Design

Install a lock on an interior wooden door. Installing a lock on an interior door

Do you want to have your own space and be sure that no one will break into it? Then installing a lock on an interior door is the only right decision for you. You can do it yourself without resorting to outside help. It is only important to choose the right accessories. It must be of high quality, match the interior in shape, color and design.

Choosing a lock for an interior door

By function and design, there are several types of door locks:

conventional latch or latch lock;
latch with lock;
mortise;
magnetic;
overhead;
latch;
latch;
level.

This is the most primitive type of lock, which is used in almost all interior doors. It is a simple design, consisting of a cylinder and a plastic or metal tongue. Often such a mechanism is mounted together with a handle that controls the tongue.

Latch - the simplest mechanism installed on interior doors

The purpose of the latch is to keep the door closed. The conventional latch is simple, reliable in operation, characterized by a wide choice of designs. However, due to the overly simple mechanism, it has not found wide application.

Latch with lock. It is considered a variation of the conventional latch, which is equipped with an additional latch. It blocks the movement of the handle. There are two types: lever and push-button. The first type is more practical, reliable. A push-button lock is no worse, but with it there can be such an unpleasant situation as accidentally slamming a door.

The latch with a latch has a number of advantages: simple installation, simple design, a wide range of models. The disadvantage of this lock is a weak locking mechanism.

When buying a product, pay attention to the fact that the movements of the tongue are smooth and whether the spring returns it to the inside of the door.

The people called him a mechanism with a larva for a key. Outwardly, it looks like a lock for street doors, but has a simpler design. The structure of the device includes a cylinder and a lock block.

Mortise locks are reliable and durable

The cylinder is of two types: "key-key" and key-revolver. The first is installed if the lock is used occasionally. The second, on the contrary, is suitable for more frequent use.

Mortise locks close bedrooms, offices, pantries. They reliably protect against penetration, are durable, rarely break. If we talk about the disadvantages of the device, then this includes the complexity of installation and the dependence of the parameters of the device on the thickness of the door.

If you can afford to fork out, then this type of castle is for you. It is intended primarily for rooms in which it should be as quiet as possible: bedrooms, children's rooms, offices.

The magnetic lock is silent, but its cost is quite high

Silent operation is ensured by its design, consisting of a crossbar, striker, magnet, magnet case. The crossbar is attracted to the striker with a magnet, which is located on the box.

Along with the advantages of the product, there are disadvantages. Firstly, it is the impressive cost of the castle. Secondly, the lock case is not very compact in size, which makes it look bulky.

Rim lock. Products of this type can rightfully be called a rarity. However, despite this, the demand for it to this day does not fall due to the simplicity of the mechanism and simple installation.

Current models boast a comfortable body. The device is mounted on the inside or outside of the door, thus providing protection against unexpected entry.

The original purpose of the lock was to secure one of the wings of double doors. Currently, it is installed mainly in the bathroom, toilet.

Espagnolette installed in bathrooms

The principle of operation of this product is so simple that even a small child can handle it. Its installation does not require special knowledge and experience.

Latch. This is the simplest type of castle. A latch is a metal plate with a retractable lever. It is placed as a main or auxiliary lock.

The mechanism is widely used due to the high degree of reliability and protection. It is used for both street and interior doors.

To fix the bolt in the mechanism, plates (levers) with grooves of various shapes are used.

The lever lock has a high degree of protection

The corresponding key bit profile is suitable for each insert. The lock will open only when the levers are in the correct position and the groove is free for the passage of the bolt.

If you have made your choice in favor of a stylish but simple lock, you can get to work.

Tools and materials

To install the mechanism, you will need the following materials:

handles of any shape (round, in the shape of the letter "G") - 2 pieces;
cylinder mechanism with a spring;
fastening screws that connect the cylinder mechanisms;
crossbars;
sockets for closing cylinder devices - 2 pieces.

In addition to materials, a small set of tools is needed for work:

simple pencil;
roulette;
drill;
office knife;
chisels 0.1 and 0.2 cm;
feather drill 2.3 cm;
drill 0.2 cm;
a crown of 5.4 or 5 cm based on the thickness of the door;
masking tape;
hammer.

If one of the listed tools is not at home, you will have to buy it. Their cost is low, and they are always useful on the farm.

Lock installation

Putting the mechanism on your own will not be difficult. You just need to forget about the rush, be careful enough. The success of the case depends on many factors, including the type of door.

The easiest way is to insert the lock into a wooden canvas. It will be more difficult with an MDF product, since skills and knowledge are already required here. Therefore, in this case, it is better not to take risks, but to call the master of his craft for help..

Otherwise, poor work will result in damage to the mechanism, which will require repair or even a complete replacement of the product.

Preparatory stage

Marking is the initial stage on the way to installing a lock. The first thing to do is to prevent possible damage to the door.

The lock is mounted at a distance of about 1 m from the floor

To this end, measure the distance on the canvas 0.9 - 1.1 m from the floor covering - this is the location of the lock. Then stick masking tape on the end and surface of the door in that place. Such a procedure will not only protect your product from scratches, but also facilitate the application of measurements.

The pattern comes with a lock. It allows you to make unmistakable marks indicating the position of the holes. To do this, fold the stencil along the fold line and attach to the end. Then, with a self-tapping screw, mark the centers of the holes on the end and on the flat surface of the canvas.

Selection of holes for the handle and lock mechanism

After marking, take on the following steps:

Cutting a lock with a milling cutter

A milling cutter is a small vertical machine. It is quite easy to use, so even a beginner can manage it. To embed a lock using a machine into an interior door with your own hands, you must:

Put the canvas perpendicular on its side and fix it with a slipway.
Measure and mark the tongue.
Attach the lock to the sash so that the marked line runs clearly in the middle of the recess made under the tongue. Circle the body of the product with a pencil, as well as the bar along the upper and lower borders.
Draw straight lines on the end of the canvas. Use a square if necessary.
Select the opening for the lock with the machine.
Change the cutter in the machine, based on the dimensions of the bar, and adjust the depth required for its thickness. Make a notch in the center.
Make a nest for the lock case. To do this, drive the machine in the middle of the markup in a straight line.
On the resulting line, drill holes with a drill. The wood that remains is removed with a hammer and chisel.

The opening for the lock can be made with a milling cutter

Thus, an opening for the castle turned out. To check if everything is done correctly, insert the device into the seat.

Mortise lock without cutter

The absence of a cutter is not a reason to postpone the installation of the lock until better times. For installation, the most common tools that can be found in any home are suitable.

Although it should be noted that there are cases when it is impossible to cope without a professional machine. For example, installing a lock with a latch.

Insert mechanism with larva

Sometimes the lock is mounted on a door that already has a handle. It is for such situations that mechanisms with a larva are designed. They have the shape of a rectangle, so this work will seem overwhelming for a self-taught master.

Locks with a larva are mounted in a door with an installed handle

However, you do not need tools and skills. Only by trying, you will learn how easy it is to insert a lock with a larva into a wooden door.

To do this, find a place for the lock (above the handle or below it) and take on the following items:

On the end, draw a center line where the mechanism is mounted.
Attach the lock and make marks indicating the height of the product.
Drill holes along the center line with a small distance between them.
Use a drill to remove the jumpers between the holes and make a neat nest that matches the size of the lock.
Place the mechanism in the resulting opening, fix it with self-tapping screws. With an office knife, mark and cut the perimeter of the lock plate to approximately the same thickness as the lock plate itself.
Remove the mechanism and make a hole for the device with chisels.
Attach the lock to a flat surface of the canvas and mark the location of the larva. Then circle the larva along the contour. Do the same on the back of the door.
Drill a hole for the larva. In order for the device to enter freely, you need to go a little beyond the marking contours.
Put the lock and screw it with self-tapping screws, the holes for which had to be made in advance.
Fix the larva and check how the mechanism functions. Put on it with the help of self-tapping screws lining as a decor.

Installing the counterpart of the lock

This is the final moment of mounting the lock mechanism. To install the counterpart, follow these steps:

Close the door and draw two lines on the opening, the distance between which corresponds to the size of the latch.
Measure how far the start of the latch is from the corner of the door.
Measure exactly the same distance on the opening - this is the beginning of the recess.
If you are going to drown the counterpart in the jamb, then set it in place and circle the inner and outer contours with a pencil. If not, then outline only the inner one.
Before installing the answer, make a recess under the tongue and self-tapping screws with a tool.
Install the counterpart and close the doors. If excess play occurs, eliminate it by bending the tongue on the answer.

The reciprocal part of the lock is fixed with self-tapping screws

Thus, you have come to the finish line. Installing a new lock or replacing an old one is not a very difficult process, but it requires accuracy. When changing the previous mechanism, make sure once again that it is advisable to reinstall. After all, the problem can sometimes be solved by simply adjusting the device.

It is better, of course, to entrust the installation of an entrance anti-burglary door with a high-security lock to specialists who know not only their business, but also the working methods of intruders. But to insert a lock into the interior door with your own hands carefully and so that the lock does not stick, the door does not rattle and its loose jamb does not spoil the finish, it is quite possible by any home craftsman. Just keep in mind that this lock will be "from honest people", just to restrict access to the room. Most often, the need for this kind of work arises when children grow up and / or older family members go on a well-deserved rest. Quite often, if the apartment has an office of a business person or a creative worker. In the first case, the secret mechanism (larva) of the lock with a key hole is located inside the room; in the second outside.

Reliability issue

The reliability of an interior door with a lock has a different meaning than the entrance. The exception is the door to the room, access to which is strictly limited (storage of liquid values, weapons room, workshop with hazardous equipment and / or harmful substances, etc.). Here you need a reliable steel door, no less resistant than the front door.

Note: if you have such a case, check the walls first. Suddenly they are partitions made of foam block, plasterboard, etc., the room is unsuitable for this purpose. The burglar will immediately see the slack, make a super-duper lock with all its secrets with a handle and simply cut through or break through the partition.

Inserting the lock into the interior door is made taking into account the following. circumstances. Atmospheric pressure at sea level approx. 1 kgf/sq. see This is a very large value, we just adapted to it in the process of evolution. For example, due to an open window, when ventilation is turned on, from a temperature difference, etc. the pressure on one side of the door has changed by only 1%, i.e. per 10 g/sq. cm. The area of the standard door leaf 75x190 cm is 14250 sq. see Excessive load on the canvas on one side will be 142.5 kgf. If the door is hung on 2 hinges, a little less than half of this value will fall on the tongue of the lock and its catch eye (reciprocal part) under it in the door jamb; if the door is on 3 hinges - a little more than a third.

Note: there is no point in hanging the door on more than 3 hinges - the concentrated load on the tongue of the lock and the eye does not fall much, but the door jamb turns out to be weakened and overloaded.

70-45 kgf pointwise, this load is generally small - if it is static. But a dynamic repetitive and smaller value acts according to the principle "A drop wears away a stone." In the case when the lock is not inserted into the door correctly (large play, tight tongue movement, etc.), over time, firstly, damage to the door and jamb develops: loosening, cracking, peeling of the canvas coating. If the door with the jamb is very strong, the wallpaper will first tear along its contour, then a crack will creep, the plaster will begin to crumble. Further it is clear: unscheduled repairs with everything arising from the wallet and worries and troubles flowing into the head. Therefore, the material of this article is focused on the intricacies of work, allowing you to embed a lock in a door between rooms so that it does not rattle and spoil the room for at least 15 years.

MDF doors

The design of the MDF door is shown in the figure:

It is generally the same as the old "Khrushchev" doors made of fiberboard on a wooden frame. But due to the high overall strength and rigidity of the base material, the frame is assembled from a rather thin beam, which cannot be weakened with cutouts - the door will quickly become unusable. To insert the lock, the frame is reinforced with a backing beam (highlighted in color). For greater reliability of the entire structure, the distance from the lower edge of the door to the longitudinal axis of the lock tongue is 965 mm by default. If the lock is with a separate latch, the countdown is to the middle of the distance between the axes of it and the tongue. If there are several languages, then up to the middle of the distance between their common longitudinal axis and the axis of the latch.

Locks for interior doors

The secrecy mechanisms of interior locks are usually simple: a cylinder larva or a lever lock. Less commonly used disc larva.

According to the ease of insertion, convenience and features of use, locks are most often placed on interior doors. types (see fig.):

"flat" - in a rectangular case, with tongue(s) separated from the latch. The mechanism, as a rule, of increased secrecy, the handle is file (push);
"round" - in a cylindrical body. Pen of any type. Tongue and latch combined. The cylinder head and the latch stop are embedded in the handle spindle;
"flat" reduced height without a latch with a rotary handle;
"round" with a handle-knob.

To insert the lock into the interior door neatly and securely, you must also take into account its design and the thickness of the leaf:

From MDF 35 mm thick.
The same, 45 mm thick.
New wooden with a thickness of panels from 50 mm.
Old wooden or fiberboard on a plank frame.

flat

Flat interior locks are the most expensive, it is more difficult to embed them than round ones, but they provide the best protection against breaking by unskilled intruders. However, they also weaken a door with a jamb more than round ones. Such a lock must be selected for the cash door. First, only a flat lock of reduced height can be cut into a 35 mm thick MDF door (item 3 in the figure above).

Also, look at fig. with dimensional drawings of flat locks. Pay attention to the sizes highlighted in color. Only locks can be inserted into MDF doors, in which, firstly, the thickness of the thickest of the tongues is not more than 15 mm. Secondly, the width of the end plate of the lock should be no more than 24 mm. Reason: the dynamic loads from the lock should be taken by a wooden frame, and not a sheathing made of thin, rather fragile MDF. Therefore, from those shown in Fig. locks in MDF doors, you can only embed the one on the left.

The castle in the center in Fig. suitable for old wooden and "Khrushchev" doors. They are usually thicker than 45 mm, but the old withered wood also becomes brittle; most often also fissured. Therefore, only the thickness of the tongue and so on becomes critical. lock body. Finally, the lock on the right in fig. suitable for wooden doors with a leaf thickness of 40 mm or more. If a decorative coating is applied over solid wood - for a door with a thickness of 50 mm or more, because at least 10 mm of wood must remain from the side edges of the end cap to the coating.

Round

Round locks for interior doors are the best option for an ordinary apartment or house. You can embed them in any door. Locks with a latch handle are usually placed where there are sick or infirm people who find it difficult or impossible to wield a rotary handle. Handles-knobs are the safest: they cannot be scratched or caught on clothes. The technology for inserting round locks with handles of any type is the same.

The lock device for an interior door in a cylindrical case is shown on the left in the figure:

By default, these locks are available for doors with a thickness of 35 or 45 mm. Locks for massive wooden doors on the periphery are not always on sale. In this case, the lock can be adapted to a door of any thickness by replacing the latch carrier (highlighted in red in the center) with a longer one: this is a simple rectangular plate of ordinary steel 2-3 mm thick with a hole at one end. The latch output switch (on the right in the figure) is set to the position resp. door frame material: 70 mm for wood, 60 for MDF.

Also, by default, round locks are released with a larva inside, so that you can lock from the inside. If you have a left door (opens to the left), and resp. there is no lock in the nearest store, the larva and the latch can be rearranged in advance (required!) By disassembling the lock (see the figure on the right and below). However, for an office and other premises where there should be no access to outsiders in the absence of the owner, this is not an option, because. from the side of the larva, the round interior lock is disassembled without special tools.

Dismantling and installation of a round lock

Round locks are sold disassembled into 3 assembly units: a body with a tongue, a socket with a latch handle and a carrier, a handle socket with a cylinder. The skirt of the latch socket has holes for mounting screws; in the skirt of the outlet of the larvae - deaf threaded sockets under them. To install the lock in the door, put the body in place (see pos. 4 in the figure below and below) and insert the carrier into the groove of the tongue pusher. Then they apply the socket to the canvas and check the progress of the latch: it should be removed when the handle is turned to the right (clockwise). If on the contrary, turn the latch socket 180 degrees. Now put the socket of the larva in place so that the end of the carrier falls into its groove. They tighten the sockets with screws, put a decorative overlay - you're done.

To completely disassemble the lock, for example, to replace the larva, first remove the handle with it. To do this, press the latch on the neck of the handle (shown by the arrow in pos. 1 of the figure).

The handle will slide down the chute (pos. 2), but the larva will remain in place. To get to its latch (ring or pin), as well as to the latch stopper latch, you need to insert a hook into the window of the decorative lining (shown by the arrow in pos. 3), pry off the latch and pull it towards you. Now the castle can be disassembled completely. More expensive locks are also equipped with pads that cover the heads of the fixing screws. They take off exactly the same way.

Standing or lying down?

You need to know how your lock is disassembled and mounted even before you approach the door with a tool. But let's get back to the topic. The first issue that is important for the quality of work that needs to be resolved is to remove the door from the hinges to insert the lock (embed it “lying”) and work in place (“standing”).

Experienced craftsmen, for whom time is money, who own power tools (see below), always work lying down. They are also experienced, but they are engaged in mortise locks by hand from time to time, they also prefer to work lying down. In both cases, the speed, quality and stability of the results of the work more than pays for the time it takes to remove and reattach the door, see for example. video:

Video: lying door lock insert

A novice master who intends to earn / earn extra money by tie-in locks also needs to immediately get used to working lying down, otherwise you won’t be able to fight off the claims of customers later. For a home craftsman, the “lying” method will be more convenient, firstly, with a complete replacement of the door with a jamb. Secondly, in the process of arranging and finishing a new house / apartment, because the most dreary removal of old doors disappears. But it’s better for yourself to do a single manual insertion of the lock into an existing door while standing, see the video:

Video: standing door lock insert

Tool

It's even more important to have the right tool. Some standard samples may need to be modified to fit locks, see below.

If you are going to deal with doors and locks professionally and a lot of orders are expected, it is advisable to immediately acquire a submersible wood milling machine (on the left in the figure), its cost will pay off with the speed and quality of work.

As a rule, in addition to the carriage, templates are attached to plunge cutters, with which you can carry out a full cycle of work on installing the door, see the plot:

Video: installing a door with a lock insert

For a beginner, in this case, the most important thing is not to make a mistake in choosing a fairly expensive tool, so we offer a selection of videos:

Video: how to choose a wood milling machine

Video: what kind of cutters for it you need to buy a beginner

Video: how to determine the quality of the cutter when buying

If orders for cutting locks are expected in between times, then the milling cutter will completely replace the branded template for cutting a lock with complete core drills. Its advantage is that many kits allow you to immediately accurately mark and place the counterpart of the tongue (eye). This is the most difficult lock insertion operation, see below. The disadvantage is that the template is only suitable for manufacturer's locks. A possible way out is to put your own lock (bought by the master); owners of templates for locks are often given discounts. The owners seem to be doing well: there is no need to go shopping and suffer with a choice, and a small extra charge does not tear your pocket. But in a big city this is hardly an option - where is the guarantee that an unfamiliar master did not make duplicate keys for himself in advance?

Note: a template (s) for inserting a company lock / locks according to his / their dimensional drawings can be made with your own hands, see next. video:

Video: a simple template for marking the door

For manual operation

You will have to do a single tie-in of the lock with your own hands for yourself according to the markup: it will take 3-4 hours to make the simplest template, and without it, standing in place, the greenest, but not armless "teapot" will cut the lock in an hour. More or less experienced home master - in half an hour. From an electrified tool, you will need a drill or a screwdriver with a power of 170 W or more, because. for a flat lock, you will have to drill deep holes, and for a round one, wide ones.

In addition to the usual home tools, you will need, firstly, feather and, for a round lock, a core drill for wood, pos. 1 in fig. There are no problems with crowns: the required diameters (50 or 54 mm) are standard. But here the pen for a round lock needs 23 mm. This is a non-standard, in ordinary sets (pos. 2) these do not happen. So, you need to either look for it separately, or manually adjust 25 mm, for example. on a surface grinder. Turning is undesirable: you can screw up the drill, and the cutter, and the machine itself. The best option is a desktop drilling machine (you can use a drill): a 25 mm pen is clamped into a chuck, the drill is turned on and adjusted to 23 mm with an emery bar; micron precision is not needed here.

It is easier to pick up a chisel / chisels (pos. 3): it is used to select a pot under the end plate of the lock. Its width in most locks corresponds to the standard sizes of chisels. If the paws of the lining are rounded (now they are rarely done), the chisel will need a joint knife (like a shoemaker) with a hard blade, see below. The mounting knife will not work!

Finally, if you are putting a lock on an old wooden door, it is highly advisable to purchase a manual nut, pos. 4. This simple and not very expensive tool is generally very useful for working with old wood. Unlike a power tool, a brace allows you to feel the resistance of the material with your hands - the likelihood of chipping, cracking and generally damaging the part with it is much less.

How to work manually

Inserting a lock into a door is a rather delicate matter: from the holes for the lock and the tongue catcher to the outer surface of the door leaf (possibly with an expensive finish), no more than 10-12 mm of wood remains; more often 5-7 mm. Therefore, you need to work under the lock manually carefully and correctly: one awkward movement - and the door is damaged.

First - do not drill the door with a crown under the round lock right through, pos. 1 in fig. The probability of spoiling the finish is very high. The crown must be drilled until the pilot drill shows up on the other side, and drilled from there. The hole will turn out with a small ledge inside, but it does not affect the quality of this work.

Second - do not drill with a pen immediately along the markup, especially when working while standing on weight, pos. 2. First you need to drill a pioneer (guide) hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. To achieve its deviation from the perpendicular to the part of 2 degrees or less with a twist drill is easy for a beginner, and with a pen it is difficult for an experienced one. Moreover, since the guide tooth of the pen describes a conical surface while rotating, it will not feel the beveling of the pioneer hole at first, it will stand perpendicular itself. And when the wings of the feather enter the tree approx. 1/3 of the height, then the entire drill will become self-guiding.

If the door is wooden, then you need to choose a chisel along the end plate, holding it with the bevel of the blade to the tree, pos. 3 - so the tool will not crash into a tree and stab it. If the door is made of MDF (homogeneous material), then the chisel is held, on the contrary, with a bevel outward. So the decorative coating will come off with chips (pos. 4), and if vice versa, a long flake may rebound.

Note: if the legs of the end caps are rounded, acc. parts of the marking are sweating under them until they are cut with a chisel with a joint knife to a depth equal to the thickness of the end plate (2-3 mm). On MDF doors it is much easier - the thickness of the decorative coating corresponds to the thickness of the overlays, and the difference in the cutting force of the coating and the base material (it is harder) is very well felt by hand.

About markup

Most of the marking operations when inserting a lock are made according to templates or parts of the lock applied in place. It is better to make markings with a needle or a sharp awl, then you can process directly along the contour. If with a pencil, then during processing you will have to take into account the width of the line and the indentation of the stylus from the template / detail, which is not easy for a good master. But it is impossible to replace the awl / needle with a locksmith's scriber: it is sharpened in such a way that it indents even more than the stylus, and the scratch from it is not erased.

Flat lock mortise

The procedure for inserting a flat lock into a wooden door is shown in fig. below. Remarks to it, the first - on the door, first with a pencil, mark the vertical center line and the horizontal one 965 mm from the bottom (for solid and old doors - 800 mm). In this case, it is also better to make the markings according to the attached lock (pos. a in the figure) with a pencil and select the nest according to the lock along its contour, this will provide the necessary installation clearance.

Secondly, it is better to drill the lock socket (pos. b) with a feather drill with a diameter of 1-3 mm more than the thickness of the lock body. For accuracy, they drill in 2 steps, along the pioneer holes, see above. The selection of the nest with a chisel, the marking of the contour sweating according to the lock nested in the nest, and the sampling sweating (pos. v-d) are made as described above.

There is a nuance in the marking of the holes for the larva and the spindle of the handle, pos. e. It is made according to the lock attached to the side, but the holes are drilled with an additional indent from the end of the door S, equal to the thickness of the end plate. A shaped hole for the larva is made in 3 steps: a round one is drilled for the cylinder (larger), a smaller round one is drilled under the bottom of the pin cassette, and the remains are selected with a chisel.

The last operation is fitting the lock, see fig. on right. They put it in a nest without a handle and a larva, put both in place. A loose lock assembly must have a play of approx. 1 mm on all sides.

Note: the handles can be removed from the flat lock by unscrewing the screws fastening the sockets, as with the round one, see above. Nothing more needs to be removed from the lever lock. To remove the cylinder lock cylinder, you need to unscrew the Phillips screw, the head of which is located on the end plate under the tongue / tongues. After that, the cylinder of the larva is turned with a key a little back and forth, pushing the larva with a finger until it comes out. The larva is put in place in the reverse order. After installation, they check, also turning the cylinder with a key, whether the tongue is walking, i.e. whether the carrier (backstage) of the larva entered the groove of the tongue bolt.

Round lock insert

Installing a round lock in an interior door is much easier than a flat one. First, pioneer holes are marked according to the template according to the thickness of the door and the exit of the tongue. Marking is carried out from the side of the larva. If the grub sockets and latches need to be interchanged, this is done before marking, see above. Pioneer holes are then drilled. There is one very important trick here, which you will see later in the section on installing the mate. Then large holes are selected with a crown, the lock is inserted into the socket. On its end plate, a sweat is marked, selected, the lock is assembled in place with standard screws.

Drawings of templates for marking the door for round locks with a diameter of 50 and 54 mm are given in Fig. To transfer them to cardboard / paper, the drawing is printed and redrawn to scale so that the distances marked in green are equal to those indicated. In the old fashioned way, this can be done with a drawing pantograph; homemade is fine too. More accurate and faster - in a good vector graphics program, for example. CorelDraw. There you can set the length of the measured segment with an accuracy of literally up to a micron, and scale it in increments of hundredths of a percent. A raster image (bitmap) is imported into CorelDraw, scaled by a measured segment (CorelDraw also has measuring tools, but in this case it is more convenient to scale as much as possible) and printed - that's it, the template is ready.

Mating installation

This is the most difficult and critical part of inserting a lock into an interior door. It is an incorrectly installed or bad eye that is the most common cause of rattling and warping of the door, jamming of the lock, loosening of the jamb and damage to the wall finish. The modern lug of the tongue of the lock, in order to avoid this, consists of 2 parts (except for fastening hardware): the eye itself (lining on the jamb with a cutout under the tongue) and the tongue catcher - a plastic box (for some reason it is called decorating on sale, although it is not visible ), pressed by the eyelet. The box dampens dynamic loads on the tongue and protects the jamb material from direct contact with it. For the same purpose, the eyelet is made with an adjustable mustache, see below.

About language markup

The installation of the eye begins with the marking on the jamb of the end of the lock tongue; nothing else is tied to it. Usually the tongue on the joint is marked according to the risks and measurements, see fig. on right. But much more accurately, this can be done in other ways, different for flat and round locks. In the first (“flat”) case, a lining approx. 2 mm, this is the value of the operational gap of the closed door. The simplest way is to fold a piece of paper with several layers, lick your finger, attach it to the paper and immediately stick it on the door. Then washable paint is applied to the tongue of the castle (you can thickly smear it with a felt-tip pen). The door is now closed before the slam, i.e. until it stops in a quarter, and with the key they push the tongue all the way into the jamb several times. It will leave a mark, clear enough to beat off the full outline of the tongue.

In the case of a round lock, the matter is again simplified. It is not necessary to smear his tongue with paint, especially since it is beveled and in the context of a complex configuration. But you need to take your time at the end of the door to drill a hole (nest) 23 mm under the lock body. They drill a hole in the canvas 50 or 54 mm for sockets, and at the end, for the time being, they leave a pioneer hole with a diameter of 4 mm. Then the door is closed until it slams (without lining), a 4 mm self-tapping screw is inserted from the side of the larva and the center of the tongue on the jamb is marked with it. How it looks when the door is open, for clarity, is shown in Fig. on the right, but the door should actually be closed. The tip of the self-tapping screw will go 1-1.5 mm in the direction of opening the door, which will give the required operating clearance.

Installation of eye and catcher

Installation of the counterpart of the interroom door lock after marking the trace of the tongue on the door jamb is carried out step by step in the next. order (see also fig.):

The lock must be fully assembled in place and securely fastened;
The eye is turned over (it is symmetrical about the horizontal axis), applied in place so that the vertical axes of the tongue and the eye coincide and mark its mounting holes (marked by arrows). Adjusting mustache (also marked with an arrow) do not bend or break off! At the same step, a sweat is selected as deep as the thickness of the eyelet;
Similarly, a catcher is applied and the outer contour of its tray is marked with risks by hand;
The outer contour of the catcher tray is beaten off in place;
Drill a nest for a catcher. Do this with a pen, as in pos. 5, generally not necessary, especially if the jamb is made of MDF: a through hole from the guide tooth will weaken the jamb. It is better to drill in the corners with a twist drill;
With a chisel, a catcher's nest is chosen;
The catcher is applied already in the working position;
Mark its outer contour;
Choose a sweat under the catcher;
The catcher is put in place;
Cover it with an eye already in the working position;
Holes are drilled in place for small self-tapping screws, with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm less than standard ones;
Temporarily fasten the eye with small self-tapping screws;
They check the course of the tongue (whether it sticks) and the play of the closed door - yes, no;
The tight course of the tongue and the play of the closed door are eliminated by removing the eyelet and carefully bending / bending its adjusting mustache;
The counterpart is finally fixed with regular fasteners.

Note: the adjusting whiskers of the counterparts of cheap "alternative" locks in step 15 often break off. The only thing that can be advised here is to bend carefully with pliers.

About magnetic locks

There are mainly 3 types of magnetic locks for interior doors on sale. The first - electromagnetic - came into everyday life along with intercoms. The disadvantages are the same: volatile, little electricity, but winding. If the room is de-energized, the lock opens without the possibility of locking - come in, who wants to. Additionally, in residential premises - you need to drill a channel in the door, and beat a strobe under the supply wires in the walls. Or cover them with boxes, which is also quite laborious and ugly. An electromagnetic interior lock crashes most often like a round one; less often as flat. Suppliers even offer coded electromagnetic locks for interior doors. In a communal apartment of the Stalinist type or for partitions with a privatized hostel, such may be needed. But in a family apartment or house, it frankly smacks of paranoia.

The second type is still very rare due to the sky-high price and the lack of any advantages over mechanical ones. These are non-volatile locks on niobium supermagnets. They crash like flat ones, but the requirements for accuracy and accuracy of work are lower: the counterpart is a bar made of ferromagnetic material. It is impossible to push open a door with a lock on supermagnets, and not every healthy man can knock it out with his shoulder. Unlocking - by intercepting the magnetic flux by counter-magnets, introduced by turning the handle between the holders. The disadvantage is serious: rather fast degradation of magnets.

Only mortise locks are inserted into interior doors, as overhead locks will look somewhat bulky and too noticeable from one of their sides. It is not difficult to do this work, especially for those people who have at least once dealt with such a thing. In the article, we will consider how to choose, mount and adjust locks of this type correctly.

Castle selection

The most common type of lock on a wooden interior door is a cylinder mechanism with two round or L-shaped handles and a latch. They are made in several versions, for example, with or without a locking device. In the first case, it is possible to close the door on one side, thereby blocking its opening with a handle on the other side. That is, you can lock yourself in the bedroom and relax without fear that someone will enter the room and find you undressed. A lock without a locking device is placed only so that the door can be tightly closed with a latch, protecting itself from drafts, smells from the kitchen or noise from other rooms.

The locking device does not have to be a keyed mechanism. There are also locks that have conventional locks of various shapes built into the main handle, for example, levers or buttons. The range of locks in building materials stores is quite wide, so there should be no problems with the choice.

The option with a larva and keys is, in fact, a simplified device for locking the front door. Such a lock can usually be unlocked from both sides without fear of becoming a prisoner in one's own office, as is the case when a lock with a block is installed on the door. The tongue in such doors is activated by pressing the handle. If the door has the function of a simple barrier against drafts, and does not serve as a fence for personal space (with a locking device), then it is better to choose a lock with a plastic latch. There is less noise from it, which is very annoying at night in the process of opening and closing the door by family night owls.

If you look, then different versions of the devices are placed on the doors of rooms with a specific function:

locks with key cylinders on both sides are suitable for cabinets;
for bedrooms, toilets, baths and showers - devices with interlocks from the inside;
for children's rooms, newfangled and expensive magnetic locks are ideal;
for kitchens, halls and utility rooms, you can limit yourself to ordinary locks with handles and a latch.

But in any case, all devices must be mortise. When choosing, be sure to make sure that the interior canvases in your home have the appropriate thickness for the fittings you choose. Standard doors usually have unequal leaf thickness: some are at least 35 mm, others are 45 mm. Here they need appropriate fittings to avoid that the lock will be equal in thickness to the door.

In addition, when choosing accessories, you need to pay attention to the overall interior of the home and rooms in particular. The door array is also of great importance. For example, it is impossible to embed locking devices designed for a door weighing 40 kg onto a canvas weighing 70 kg. It would be a bad idea to embed a lock with miniature handles and a weak return spring into a canvas that has huge dimensions.

As for the magnetic lock mentioned above, such a device has a movable positively charged core (bolt) inside, which begins to operate only when the door is closed. In this position, he finds himself opposite a negatively charged magnetic strip mounted on the door frame. The crossbar is attracted by the bar and securely fixes the door in the closed position. To open the door, you need to turn the handle, which disconnects (unlocks) the magnets. After the door is opened, the bolt is no longer affected by the interaction force of opposite-pole magnets, so it returns to its place. A completely silent device is gaining popularity, which is still restrained only by a rather high price for structures of this type.

For sliding interior doors, there are also special locking devices. They cut into the canvas, have the same rotary knobs and a bar on the box. The main difference between such devices lies in their latch, which has the shape of a hook, because of which this constipation was called "harpoon".

Preparation

It doesn't matter which lock was chosen for a particular interior door, preparation for installation is not much different from its type. You can give advice: if you plan to embed locks on all interior doors of an apartment or house, then it is best to do this on the door panels removed from the hinges. Any professional will tell you this. If you decide to put a locking device in only one door, and removing it from the hinges presents certain difficulties, then it is better to mount the lock in the “standing” position.

Before approaching the door with a tool, you need to carefully consider the purchased model of the locking mechanism, once again check the availability of all the necessary parts and fasteners with the description of the package, fully read the instructions and understand the installation diagram of the device. All this must be included with the product.

Armed with knowledge and making sure that the kit is complete, you should decide at what height the device will need to be installed. Typically, locks are cut at a height of 100 to 150 cm from the floor surface. Having chosen the height, you can make a preliminary mark on the canvas and think about the tool that will be needed to insert the existing lock.

Required Tools

Consider the option of inserting the simplest device with two handles and a latch.

For work you will need:

chisel;
electric drill with drills;
feather drill 22 mm;
milling cutter for wood with a diameter of 50 mm;
Screwdriver Set;
hammer;
measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure);
washable marker or pencil.

An electric drill is needed not only for drilling holes for fasteners, it is also useful for working with a drill bit and a milling cutter. With a pen drill, you will need to drill a hole for the lock, and with a cutter - recesses for decorative overlays of handles. Of course, it is more accurate to carry out such work with a special tool - a milling cutter, which is adapted specifically for such cuts in a tree, but because of its high cost, it is more often used by professionals who earn their living in carpentry.

Groove making

When installing the lock, it will be necessary to make grooves for the latch base plate on the end side of the door leaf to a depth of 3-5 mm (depending on the model), as well as for the back plate on the door unit.

This is done by hand using a chisel and a hammer using the following technology:

the planks are applied to the place of their future location, and are circled around the perimeter with a pencil or a thin marker;
according to the marked dimensions, the platform is carefully cut down with a chisel and a hammer to a shallow depth;
further work must be continued, following the depth - it must be strictly along the thickness of the plates, since neither excessive deepening nor too shallow a groove is desirable;
having cut out the grooves, they are cleaned from bumps and debris.

In case of excessive deepening, it will be necessary to eliminate the error with a layer of plastic or other material, which, of course, will not improve the operational reliability of the device.

Mounting the device

Before you embed the lock, you need to make a markup. All plunging operations, starting with marking, are easy to carry out on your own. Typically, such fittings are installed right in the middle of the door leaf from one of its edges. Therefore, a small line with a tape measure marks the middle of the canvas (for a standard door from its bottom, this will be a distance of 95 cm or so in any direction). Then, from the edge of the canvas, at which the lock will crash, 6 cm is marked with a square until it intersects with the previous mark.

A noticeable dot is placed at the intersection of two marks. It is this point that will be the center through which the axis of the handles and the lock will pass if the lock needs to be assembled with a latch. There will also be a center for drilling recesses for decorating handles.

Using the same square, we transfer the central point to the side of the door, right in the middle of the leaf thickness. Here will be the center of the cylindrical body of the lock (latch, tongue).
Now you need to take a pen drill, insert it into an electric drill and drill a hole for the lock case. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a strict perpendicular position of the axis of the drill in relation to the sidewall of the door leaf. Hole depth - about 35 mm.
You need to change the pen drill in the drill to the cutter. This tool drills a hole for the handles. Here, too, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the tool so that it is perpendicular to the door both in the horizontal and vertical planes. In addition, it is impossible to allow through drilling of the door on one side. On the cutter there is a sharp tip protruding along the axis, like the pen of the previous drill, so it will serve as a guide for completing the work. When this tip drills the opposite side of the blade, they go with the cutter to the other side and drill a hole from there to avoid damage to the blade at the exit point of the cutter.

The next step is to adjust the size of the exit hole for the latch using a feather drill. It should be within 23 mm (we had a 22 mm drill). To do this, you just need to fit the hole to size by inserting and trying on the lock cylinder to the hole.
After that, it is necessary to clean the resulting two holes, which are connected to each other perpendicularly along the axes, from dust, sawdust and burrs.
We insert the lock cylinder into the corresponding hole and select the groove for its base plate using a chisel and a hammer in the manner described above. When the seat for the latch is ready, we install it in place, drill holes for the fixing screws with a thin drill and fasten the lock to the door with them.
Now you can, by inserting one of the handles into the lock hole, mark the exact location of the striker. To do this, the tongue is covered with some kind of coloring matter and, holding the tongue in a recessed state with the handle, cover the door to the end. After making sure that the door is closed tightly, you need to release the handle, the latch will rest against the door block and make a mark. And already from this mark, you can calculate the installation location of the reciprocal bar. Make a selection for it with a chisel and a hammer, as described above. At the end of the groove, put the bar in place and secure with self-tapping screws.

Installation of door locks with a plunge cutter is much better and easier. The milling machine is also supplied with various templates for working with many well-known types of locks. With the help of the carriage and these templates, all the work is done on the installation of not only various fittings, but also on the correct installation of the door itself.

Assembly and adjustment

It remains only to finally assemble the lock, adjust, if necessary, its operation, and finally fix all the fasteners. It should be noted right away that you do not need to be too zealous with fasteners, especially in those locks where parts of the device are fastened together from different sides of the web. A strong tightening of the screws can deform the case, and the locking mechanism will work hard, up to jamming.

Since the latch is already in the right place, it is necessary to insert the handles. The first step is to install a handle with mounting screws, which must be unscrewed before installation. After that, the handle is inserted with its square axis into the lock hole and into its own hole in the canvas until it stops.

Requires a minimum set of tools:

Drill
Chisel 19 mm
Crown diameter 50 mm
23 mm spade drill
Drill for wood or metal 4 mm
Hammer
crosshead screwdriver
And a pencil

So, let's start embedding the lock.

Drill a hole in the center with a 4mm drill

We put the lock flush with the door and make a mark in fact

We drill through the hole with the same drill, observing a right angle.

With a 50 mm crown, we make a tie-in on one side of the door.

Attention!

Your specific case may require a different size crown.

We finish on the other side.

We take a self-tapping screw of a suitable length, close the door when the box slams and through a 50 mm hole we insert a self-tapping screw into the remaining 4 mm hole and by pressing we make a mark in the door frame.

According to the mark with a 23mm drill bit, we cut a hole to a depth sufficient for the lock latch to enter.

With the same drill at the mark, we drill a hole for the lock.

We insert the lock and make a mark with a sharp pencil to drown it in the door leaf.

With a chisel we make notches strictly according to the marks and make a selection so that the lock sits in a pot, then we fasten it with self-tapping screws.

We begin to assemble the lock, insert the outer part into the grooves (it usually does not require disassembly).

Then carefully remove the decorative "cup" sitting in the grooves, then press the latch and remove the handle.

We connect the two sides with screws.

We insert the handle so that the latch works.

We snap the decorative "cup".

We attach the reciprocal bar, make a mark, select the excess with a chisel and fasten it.

Done!))) Properly embedded lock is freely closed by pressing the door leaf until it clicks.

Video explanation for installing the lock

Instructions for installing a door lock (knob)

1. Door marking

On the door leaf, apply markings for installing the knob (lock) according to the template. The recommended distance from the floor is 965 mm.

2. Hole marking

After you have marked out, drill two holes: 50 mm in diameter for the knob (lock) handle and 23 mm in diameter for the latch mechanism.

H. Mounting the striker

Install the keep at the same height as the latch in such a way that the additional tongue of the latch remains recessed into the body of the latch when closing, which is an obstacle when wringing out.

4 Dismantling the knob (lock)

To disassemble the knob (lock), press the spring-loaded latch at the handle attachment point with a special key and remove it.

5. Latch length adjustment

6. Latch installation

Install the latch in the groove of the door (make sure that the bevel of the latch is directed towards the closing of the door). Install the cover plate with the rod so that the rod and withdrawal sleeves exactly fit into the grooves on the latch body.

7. Installing the knob cover(of the castle)

First, put the inner plate of the jujube overlay on the rod and fix it with screws (or screws). Then screw on the outer part of the lining.

8. Installing the handle

Install the handle in such a way that the groove on the rod coincides with the groove on the knob handle, press the handle until it “clicks”.

9. Rearrangement of the mechanism in the file handle

Latch models with a square handle (options 01 and 03) can also be installed on both left and right doors. To do this, it is necessary to remove the cylinder mechanism and the locking mechanism from the handle body and swap them (according to the figure), in accordance with the side of the door opening.

Installation order.

1.Determine the location of the knob and apply the markup, guided by the template and installation instructions.

2. Based on the installed latch body, mark the installation location of the striker on the door jamb and select the groove for the striker.

3.Install the keep and fix it with screws.

4. Alternately check the functionality of the knob outside and inside the room.

5. For latch models with a square handle (options 01.03), installation on left and right doors is also provided. To do this, it is necessary to interchange the locking mechanism and the cylinder mechanism from the handle body.

As you can see, inserting a lock into a door is not such a difficult task, the main thing is not to rush.

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Photographer: Vladislav Mazitov

Putting a latch on the door or embedding a lock is not so difficult. If you have a tool (nothing extra expensive or unusual is needed), you can manage it in 30-40 minutes. And that's without experience. About how to embed a lock in an interior door and how to install a latch, and we will talk further.

Tools for tapping locks and latches

Embedding a lock in an interior door is not so difficult, but you will need tools to work:

Not so expensive and rare tool. If you do not have a drill and a crown, you can buy it at any building supermarket or on the market. Since we will not be drilling a stone, there is no need to buy too expensive ones - ordinary crowns or wood drills.

Ready-made set for inserting locks into interior doors (for wood): feather drill, holder, crown

A few words about what is better - a crown or a feather drill. It is easier and faster to cut a hole for the lock in the door with a crown, while there are fewer chips. But at the end, working with a crown is far from being so convenient, and the hole turns out to be larger than necessary. Drilling with a pen takes a little longer and there are more chips, but it is easier to control the process. In general, there is not much difference, but most often, a hole in the canvas is made with a crown, and at the end with a feather. But you can use the pen everywhere.

Another point: the standard crown has a diameter of 25 mm, and a hole of 22-23 mm is required for the lock. The extra 2 mm are easily covered by decorative overlays, but with a very narrow door, these extra millimeters can become critical.

How to embed a lock in an interior door: step by step photos

Before installing a lock or latch, you need to decide on the height at which the handles will be located. The recommended height is 90-110 cm. In this gap, they usually put a lock or latch. But when inserting a lock into an MDF door, you should not put the lock higher than a meter. The fact is that in budget models, the wooden plank into which the lock is installed has a height of 1 meter. There will be only emptiness above and you will have to re-drill the hole and figure out how to close the resulting hole. After we have decided on the height, we can begin the installation.

Notch under the lock

Before inserting the lock into the interior door, mark the selected height on the door. Make it easier with a tape measure. We put a mark on the end, transfer it with the help of a square or building level to both sides of the door leaf.

We take the lock / latch, apply it to the end of the door so that the middle of the lock falls on the drawn line. We mark the width of the metal locking part and the level at which the overlay ends.
We take a 16 mm feather drill, apply it to that part of the lock that will be inserted into the door leaf. Using a marker or masking tape, a piece of electrical tape, make a mark on the drill. This mark should be a little further than the castle. We will be guided by it to what depth to make holes. This is especially important if the lock is installed against the glass. Otherwise, you can drill too deep and damage the glass.
We put a mark on the pen drill - this way we will control the drilling depth
Having installed the pen drill, we make several holes one under the other, forming a notch for the lock. The number of holes depends on the size of the lock. In some models, 4-6 is enough, in others 8-10 will be needed.
The edges of the holes turned out to be uneven, in addition, the wood rose in places. We take a chisel and remove protruding wood fibers from the edges, slightly working in depth (but do not get too carried away).
We take a regular 16 mm drill, put it in a drill. With it, we align the edges of the hole made. To do this, we bring it up and down, pressing it slightly to one or the other side of the notch. This operation is needed to speed up the process, but the drill must be tightly controlled. If you are not sure, it is better to level the notch with a chisel and a mallet.
We insert the lock into the resulting hole. It is usually slightly larger, so there is no problem. If necessary, using a chisel or drill, it can be increased to the desired size.
We set the lock to the desired position, fasten it with two self-tapping screws (one at the top, the other at the bottom) to the door leaf.
Using a pencil or a clerical knife, we circle the lock pad around the perimeter. We remove the lock, take a chisel and remove 1-2 mm of wood, MDF or veneer inside the markings made.

The depth of the notch under the lock part depends on the thickness of the decorative strip. Usually they try to make the bar flush with the end of the door, but it may protrude a little. Shoot little by little as you work - it's easier to modify than to try to restore what was shot.

We put handles

To complete the installation of the lock in the interior door, it is necessary to make holes for the installation of handles. The work is much less than what has already been done, but accuracy is needed. Mistakes are not too critical, although it is better to try not to make them.

Handles are supplied with self-tapping screws for wooden doors and coupling bolts for installation in a metal door. It is better to replace the self-tapping screws from the kit - they are usually made of soft metal. Unless you bought a branded foreign constipation, in which the self-tapping screws are hardened. And so, buy some good self-tapping screws with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm and a length of about 1 cm.

Some models have decorative overlays. We align them with a square.

Installing the latch

Locks for interior doors usually have a rotary latch (wrapping) on one side that locks the lock, on the other side there is only an overlay with a slot. That is, you can’t just open the door from the outside - you need a special key. Installing this part of the castle takes just a couple of minutes, but there are nuances.

Everything, the insert of the lock into the interior door is almost finished, it remains to check the work.

Counterpart insert

The counterpart must be installed clearly so that the doors do not play and there are no problems with closing. Therefore, we try to mark as accurately as possible and take a sharply sharpened pencil.

You know everything how to insert a lock into an interior door. The description takes up a lot of space, the process itself takes 25-30 minutes if you are doing it for the first time. It will take more time if you level the holes with a chisel, and not with a drill. But the total duration will still not be more than an hour.

Latch installation features

A full-fledged lock in interior doors is not often installed. More often you have to put a latch - a handle with a tongue. It is smaller and embeds it much faster and easier.

Putting a latch on an interior door is even faster and easier than a lock. There is very little work. You can do it in 20 minutes. And this is completely without experience.