Pumps

Construction and calculation of a water tower for household needs. Construction and calculation of a water tower for household needs Water tower in a summer cottage

To have a year-round water supply system in a manor-type house, and even more so an automatic one, is the dream of any owner who does not have it. Of course, hardly any of them are ready to build a water tower for this purpose and drill a deep artesian well. Yes, there is no need for this at the present time - other systems have been created, moreover, quite compact and with different performance. Such water supply systems, made, say, in Italy or Spain, are sold in all cities and even large settlements in Russia. However, their price is above average (by which I mean the purchasing power of the middle class, which the vast majority of Russians still cannot even come close to).

But the lack of funds cannot force a craftsman to abandon the equipment needed in the household, but only encourages him to create it with his own hands, putting him also in front of the need to think about the device of the machine - after all, no one will allow it to be disassembled in a store for this.

So life forced me to make an automatic water supply system at home and in a personal plot with the whole household with my own hands.

It consists of two main parts: a water source and a pressure plant.

The basis of the water supply system is, of course, a source - a well with a shaft of reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 1 m. I made it a long time ago, but I got water in a bucket, using the pump only in summer to water the plants.

The depth of the well does not really matter - after all, all modern household submersible pumps provide water from a depth of up to 50 m - but it must necessarily reach the aquifer (and not just groundwater). But the volume (reserve) of water in the well should be greater than the capacity of the pressure tank - after all, the debit (water inflow) into the well may be less than the pump capacity. Submersible pumps cannot work "dry" - they will inevitably burn out, since the pumped water is also a coolant for them.

1 - well shaft (concrete rings Ш1000); 2—ladder (steel corner 25×25.2 pieces); 3 - water: 4 - rockfill; 5 - submersible pump (vibration type): 6 coupling (rubber hose, 2 pcs.); 7 - supply pipe (1/2 "); 8 - underground wall (concrete); 9 - water pressure installation; 10 - electrical wiring of the limit switch; 11 - water supply to the house (pipe 1/2"); 12 - floor; 13 - scrap wall; 14—insulating well house, board with insulation; 15 - pumping cable (2-core, waterproofed); 16 - household power cable

Domestic water supply system (pipes and fittings—1/2"):

1—supply pipe; 2—return valve: 3—squeeze; 4 - square; 5 input; 6 - lever; 7 - pressure gauge; 8 threaded pipe (coupling); 9 - fixing the cover to the flange (M8 bolt, 8 pcs.); 10 - cover (steel sheet sЗ); 11 — the tip of the lever (rubber tube); 12 - limit switch (VPK 1211); 13 - plate-bracket for mounting the limit switch (steel sheet sЗ); 14—diaphragm (reinforced rubber, s7); 15 - flange; 16 - neck; 17 - M10 nut and washer for attaching the lever to the diaphragm and the float to the lever (4 sets); 18 - outlet pipe; 19 - valve; 20—drainage of water into the house; 21—storage tank (stainless steel, sheet s2): 22 - tank leg (stainless steel, sheet s2, 4 pcs.); 23—float (PVC)

In the event of a system failure, the well can also be used in the traditional manual mode, raising water with the help of a gate, a drum and a rope with a bucket. But this has never happened to me in the three years of operation of the system. True, sometimes there were power outages.

A house is built above the well, the neck is constantly covered with a lid, and in the “icy winter time” I insulate the above-ground part of the mine with old padded jackets.

Water is taken from the well by a household submersible vibration-type pump "Kid" (you can also use the like: "Rodnichok", "Agidel" and others). The pump is lowered into the shaft (and into the water) almost to its entire depth, but does not reach the bottom by 200-300 mm, so that suspended particles that have settled on it are not sucked up.

The outlet pipe of the pump is connected to the inlet (pump) pipe with a flow section of 1/2 through a rubber coupling-hose (to reduce vibration). The coupling is fixed on the branch pipe and pipe with clamps. The supply pipe exits through the wall from the well shaft and passes in the ground below the level of maximum soil freezing to the storage water tank located in the underground of the house and which is the basis of the water pressure installation. A waterproofed electric cable is also laid next to the pipe.

With the inlet to the tank (the same 1/3 "pipe), the inlet pipe is connected through a shut-off check valve and another hose coupling. The inlet pipe itself is lowered into the tank almost to its very bottom.

The tank is located, as it was said, in the underground of the house. For me, it (underground) is also buried more than two meters, since it also performs the functions of a cellar. But this is not at all necessary - under a heated residential building there is always a positive temperature.

The original ("flask") version of the pressure device (fittings and coarse - 1/2 "):

1—water outlet to the house; 2 - inlet hose; 3—pressure gauge; 4 - tee; 5 - drive; 6 - check valve; 7 - supply pipe; 8 storage capacity (40-liter flask); 9 - holder (2 pcs.); 10 stretcher (corner 35×35); 11 - nipple; 12—input; 13—cover (stainless steel, sheet s5); 14—cover fastening (M8 bolt, 8 pcs.); 15 - gasket (rubber with a fabric base, sheet s6); 16 bandage bracket (corner 30×30, 8 pieces); 17 bandage (steel strip 30×3); 18 — limit switch; 19 portal (corner 30×30); 20 limit switch post (corner 25×25); 21 — shock absorber (from a moped); 22 —frame spar (pipe Ш25, 2 pcs.); 23 — frame cross member (corner 35×35, 2 pcs.)

The tank is cylindrical and welded from blackened stainless steel sheet 2 mm thick. It is installed on legs welded to it on a steel sheet that rises up, since the floor of the basement, although concrete, is thin-layered. Tank capacity is about 150 liters. The larger its volume, the less often the limit switch will work, which means that the pump will turn on. As practice shows, the duration of operation of electrical appliances and devices (including deep-well pumps) is inversely related to the number of their switching on and off.

The limit switch brand VPK1211 is installed on the cover of the tank neck. It is triggered by the action of a lever with a PVC float (similar to the one in the toilet bowl). The lever is also fixed in the tank neck, but only on a reinforced rubber diaphragm 7 mm thick. The end of the lever comes out through the central hole in the cover and a rubber tube is put on it.

In the side wall of the tank, not far from its bottom, an outlet pipe-fitting is embedded and welded, to which a drain pipe is connected through a valve, through which water is supplied to the house and other utility rooms. The conditional passage of the pipe, branch pipe AND valve is 1/2".

The system works as follows. The interaction of the lever with the float is adjusted in such a way that when water is taken from the tank up to half, the action of the lever tip on the limit switch stops. The electrical circuit that feeds the pump closes - and the pump begins to pump water until the water fills most of the tank volume. In this case, the pressure of the air in the tank increases to 2-2.2 atmospheres, and the float rises and forces the end of the lever to act on the limit switch, which opens the electrical circuit and stops the pump.

The process of water selection is also automatic. When a water tap is opened in a house or utility room, water rises under the pressure of the air inside the tank and enters the consumer. When water is used up to half the tank, the pump turns on again and replenishes its supply in the tank.

In the event of a power outage to the pump, water flow from the tank can be carried out almost until it is completely empty - when the air pressure in the tank is equal to 0.5 atm. At the same time, a non-return valve installed in front of the inlet pipe prevents water from leaving the tank into the well.

When making a system with your own hands, its cost, in comparison with the branded one, is reduced by an order of magnitude, while maintaining the same consumer qualities.

This story about the water installation could be completed. But I would like to note that I had a different pressure plant for a while - as a storage tank I used a 40-liter milk flask, which was left over from "collective farm" times. The disadvantage of a system with such a capacity was observed only in the fact that with a large flow of water, the pump was frequently turned on and off, which is undesirable. However, with a small consumption, this is even good: the water will not stagnate.

Improved the flask. From the neck, I removed the standard cover with its fastening elements and the latch. The neck was tightly girded with a bandage from a steel strip, overlapping its ends. I welded eight brackets from angle pieces to the bandage at regular intervals.

Further, I cut out a new cover from a sheet of stainless steel 5 mm thick, put it on the neck and at the same time drilled holes with a diameter of 8.5 mm in it and the horizontal shelves of the corners. I also drilled three holes in the lid - two with a diameter of 22.5 mm (one for the intake tube, the other for the pressure gauge) and one with a diameter of 8 mm (for the pressure pump nipple). On the cover, I also made an annular gasket for it from a rubber-fabric sheet 6 mm thick.

The flask was installed on a swinging subframe, attached to a fixed frame on one side directly to it, and on the other, through a shock absorber. To attach the upper end of the shock absorber, I had to weld another portal to the subframe, which I used as a limit switch lever mounted on a separate rack, also welded to the frame.

Publication date: April 20, 2011

Plumbing is good. Plumbing in the country is already a necessary luxury. What to do if there is no stationary water supply, if there is no stationary electricity, but the wife demands comfort?

The answer is to build a water tower. I must say right away - I will try to describe my own experience, unfortunately there are no photos of all the stages, I will have to use words.

So - let's go.

Stage one.
And how much water is needed in the country?
The answer would seem obvious - well, no less than in the city, and maybe more. I have a completely different opinion. When a resource is not available, it becomes expensive and must be saved. When there is no central water supply, but, fortunately, there is a well, water consumption from the "urban cycle" turns into "normal".

Urban cycle - open the tap and let it flow. It is inexpensive, you don’t need to carry it in buckets, and you don’t need to pump with an expensive pump driven by an expensive generator running on expensive gasoline. We will not save, suddenly someone will think that we are rednecks. How much water will be left for our children - let the children think, this is not enough for them.
Normal consumption - I will pour exactly as much as I need. Not a drop by, but I will not hermetically close the container so that it does not evaporate.

But this is a lyrical digression, let's get back to barrels and towers.
As it turned out, 1000 liters is enough for a week. Now I understand what is enough, there were doubts before the construction. They just decided. 1000 liters more than 30, which are in my tank? Yes, more. What barrel can I get? Just like 1000 liters. The so-called eurocube.

Picture - found on the net, I got a black barrel.
It was under this very barrel that I began to design the tower.

Stage two.
How to fix a piece of iron in the ground?

Using simple geometric constructions, a calculator and the rule “a triangle is a rigid figure” remembered from childhood, it was decided to build a triangular tower, i.e. on three legs.
As a bonus, they received savings of one corner of 100X100 mm, as much as 7.5 meters long and a huge pit for the foundation of the 4th support.
A few words about the foundation of the water tower. I immediately wanted to make it strong and for a long time. Drilling a hole in the ground, sticking a support into it and concrete it is a bad idea. This is not a fence, the walls will not withstand, and the bottom of the hole will fail. Just hammering a pile into the ground is also unrealistic, we proceed from the fact that there are a couple of Uzbeks and a couple of owners and no more equipment. An idea popped into my head that was later justified. Make the bases large and in 2 stages.
The first is the main pit, in my case 1x1x2 m (2m - depth.). There are 3 of these.
Then they made an insert from thin boards, in order to get a concrete glass 0.5X0.5m.
There are no photos of the process either, so I’m telling you on my fingers.
They poured 50 cm of concrete into the main pit, put an insert, poked reinforcements and, pressing down the insert with a board with piled stones, poured the outer perimeter. When the concrete set (2-3 days), the insert was removed. It turned out a glass, with a half-meter bottom made of concrete. With strong walls, along which the support easily slid into place.

Here is what is now peeking out of the ground. In fact, the concrete cube is MUCH more there :)

Stage three.

How high can a cubic meter be raised if there is no crane and it is impossible to drag it?

Why 6 meters height is chosen? Yes, the metal is cut at the metal base into such pieces and it is still possible to bring one. If it is longer - difficulties may begin. By the way, I still had to cook, but at 6 meters there was less waste.
For reference, they built 2 similar water towers at once, for me and a neighbor, and considered the consumption at once for 2. Therefore, the most expensive parts were decisive. And these are the very corners for the main supports.
And as it turned out, it is quite possible to put a piece of iron from a 100mm corner vertically (1.5 meters - in the foundation, 6 on top) with the help of 4 people.
To my great regret, I was not present at the ascent, so there will be no photos.
But it seems that the technology of the A-shaped support was used. Roughly - two beams sewn in the form of the letter A, a cable is thrown through the top. We pull the cable, the A-beam rises, and raises the leg tied to it. According to the stories, the ascent took a couple of hours on 3 supports.

Final stage
What happened in the end, how is it in winter?
As a result, the tower was welded
,
painted and equipped with a platform
,
And they hoisted a eurocube on it, with the help of a winch
.
Then they supplied a system of pipes, it seems PVC, black, rigid. and valve system

Here you can see the pipes supply, discharge, drain and for the future. It's just that a house is being built now, water supply is also planned for it.
Water for the winter, of course, must be drained. Pipes can break...
The system survived the winter without any losses, the system was merged last year, around the 20th of November, and flooded on April 23rd.
The pump hibernated in the well, everything is fine with it too.

The stage is definitely the last one.
Regrets or what I would have done differently
1. I made the topmost harness from the corner of the 45th. It was necessary not to save money and make it out of 100 ... When the barrel is filled, it contains 1000 liters, therefore 1000 kg. These very 45th corners bend a little, which strains my innate sense of beauty.
2. It was necessary to orient the flat side of the triangle to the south, and not one of the supports, like mine. Then the question of how to attach a solar panel to the tower would not cause so much thought ...
3. The lower harness (what is horizontal) could be made higher. It is unlikely that anything would have weakened, but a shed for storing unnecessary things could come out. And so - do not crawl, do not climb over ...

PS
If you have any questions - write in the comments, I will try to answer.
PPS
On this tower I hoisted

Is it advisable to install an individual storage tank? How to build a water tower on your own site? What formulas should be used to calculate pipe diameter and water flow? Which foundation to choose? Our article will tell about all this.

In the previous article, we talked about the designs, types and functions of water towers (WTs). When it comes to the water supply of an entire district or village, the installation of such a serious structure is certainly justified. But will it be useful to a private trader?

In what cases is it advisable to install your own water tower

When connected to the city water supply. The private sector with orchards and orchards is a stable and powerful consumer of water, so during the peak season there is often a drop in pressure in the pipes.
If there are large areas to be irrigated. The water supply will ensure timely watering and withstand the technology of growing plants.
When engaged in animal husbandry. This type of activity requires a constant flow of clean water. In the tank, the water will settle and be heated naturally.
With unstable water and electricity supply. You will be able to fill your own tower during the best pressure (tension), for example, at night. Installing simple automation will ensure the operation of the water supply system in offline mode.
When using your own well. WB will save electricity and pumping station life due to the optimal operation mode.

A simple analysis shows that owning a water tower is not a strange whim, but in many cases an absolute necessity. Reduced tenfold, it will become the key to reliable operation of pumps and constant uninterrupted water supply to a single household or house.

How to calculate a water tower

It will rather not be about a full-fledged water tower, but about a gravitational hydraulic system based on it. The rule known to us - "the bottom of the tank should be located above the highest point of consumption" - says that it is enough to install the tank at a certain level, which is not difficult to calculate.

Note. The initial condition is the presence of a source - your own well with an installed pumping station or connection to the city water supply.

Suppose there are two consumers - a vegetable garden and a barn. The first is located 35, and the second 25 m from the source. At the same time, the drinkers in the barn are set at a level of 1 meter. Watering the garden is carried out from ground level. The pipeline branches have a minimum common section of the main (i.e., they diverge close to the tank).

Understanding water consumption

The volume of the tank directly depends on this indicator. Here, rather than calculations, there are observations. It is necessary to install a water meter at the pumping station (source) and empirically establish the daily flow. Let's say the average consumption was 5 cubic meters. m / day. The volume of the tank should be 20% larger, we accept 6 cubic meters. m.

Calculate the installation height of the tank

For pressure holding, not only the height difference is important, but also the distance of the consumer from the source. 1 m of water movement vertically is equal to 15 m horizontally. That is, in order to effectively move water by gravity by 15 m horizontally, a drop of 1 m is required. In this case, not the length, but the cross section of the pipe is calculated in aggregate. The maximum length of one branch of the pipeline is taken as the calculated one.

The estimated height of the column for the first branch ( H st 1) will be equal to:

H st 1 = 35/15 = 2.3 m

The second branch (barn) has a level difference to increase (drinkers) and this must be taken into account.

The estimated height of the column for the second branch ( H st 2) will be equal to:

Hst2 = 25/15 + 1 = 2.66 m

Even though the second consumer is closer, it needs a higher pole due to the level difference. The total calculated value is the highest indicator, i.e. 2.66 m. We add 15% of the margin and accept H st \u003d 3 m.

The calculation shows that under these conditions the bottom of the tank should be at a level of 3 m, while the initial pressure in the system (at the bottom of the tank) will be equal to:

P=pxghh, where
R- density of water (1000 kg / m3)
g- acceleration (9.8 m / s 2)
h- water column height
P \u003d 1000 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 29400 Pa \u003d 0.294 MPa \u003d 0.3 bar

We calculate the diameter of the pipe

Here everything is a little more complicated. The required diameter is calculated from the flow rate and the water flow rate. According to Toricelli's law:

V2 = 2gh, where V is the flow rate, and h- the height of the column we get:
V 2 \u003d 2 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 58.8
V = square root of 58.8 = 7.66 m/s

We calculate the pipe cross section of 50 mm using the formula S = Pr 2:

S \u003d 3.14 x 0.0252 \u003d 0.0019625 sq. m

We calculate the water consumption ( R) according to the formula R=SV:

R \u003d 0.0019625 x 7.66 \u003d 0.015 cu. m/s = 15 l/s = 900 l/min

If the water flow per hour is known in advance, then the pipe diameter can be calculated using the formula:

D = 2 square root of S/P where S = R/square root of 2gh

In our case, a water flow of 900 l / min is quite acceptable - the entire supply can be reset in 6-10 minutes. In this case, the diameter of the pipe 50 mm should not decrease.

Attention! Each 900 elbow gives a pressure loss of 5-7%. Design a system with a minimum number of corners.

We select a pump for tanks

As a rule, pumping stations are installed in the well caisson. It is reasonable to build a water tower directly above the caisson. This will allow you to combine all the nodes in one place, which in turn will simplify repairs and maintenance. We talked about how to choose a borehole pump in one of the previous articles. The volume of water supply of an average pumping station ranges from 4 to 9 cubic meters. m / min, which fully meets the needs of a conditional economy. The cost of equipment (pump, filters, fittings) will be approximately 15,000 rubles.

We select tanks

Water tanks can be any, but must meet the requirements of tightness and be suitable for drinking water:

The best solution is 1 cubic meter cubic tanks. m in a metal frame. They are called "Eurocube". They, as a rule, provide overflow, bottom and side openings for combining several tanks into one system. Thanks to the cubic shape, they are stable and occupy a minimum of space. The frame allows you to install them on top of each other, which will give an increase in the column. The cost of one new eurocube is 8000 rubles, used - 4500 rubles. You will need 6 of these cubes. - 48,000 and 27,000 rubles. respectively.
Solid homemade tank. It can be made on site from sheets of metal with stiffeners. This option may be unacceptable due to the deterioration of the properties of water during the oxidation of the metal. Or you need to use steel of higher grades.
Associated barrels. Ordinary metal barrels of 200-240 liters can be a way out on a modest budget. They also allow a multi-storey layout and are inexpensive - 500 rubles per piece. (new). For 6 tons you will need 12 pcs. total cost of 6000 rubles.

We select a support system for tanks

In any of the above cases of tank selection, we will need a platform of 2x2 m at a height of 3 m. The calculated mass of water at maximum load is 6 tons. To hold such a mass, a foundation structure is required and there are two acceptable options.

steel frame

Crafted from metal pipes. It consists of a foundation, racks, diagonal rods, platform plane material and, if possible, a canopy. Racks made of pipes with a diameter of at least 75 mm are concreted in increments of 500 mm over the entire plane of the site. Diagonal rods (pipe 1 inch, strip, fittings, etc.) create spatial rigidity. The platform must be welded from a metal corner 45x45 mm or more. From the edge of the site to the tank wall, leave a margin of 250–400 mm for possible insulation.

Walls (box)

Around the caisson, a strip foundation of approximately 2.5x2.5 m is arranged, into which 75 mm pipes are concreted at the corners. Then walls are laid out of cinder block or brick (1 brick thick). Stone pillars are laid out at the corners. Use an 85–100 mm channel with a step of 500–600 mm as floor beams. Subsequently, the structure can be equipped for auxiliary needs.

Pipes

As can be seen from the conditions of the problem, the total length of the main line is 25 + 35 = 60 m. 20% for expenses, in total we take 75 m. The price of a polyethylene pipe is approximately 60 rubles / sq. m. m. Total 4500 rubles. per pipe + 500 rubles. for fittings = 5000 rubles.

When equipping a water tower for year-round use, remember about insulation. Even if it is empty in winter, some layer of insulation will protect the tanks (unless they are steel) from temperature deformations.

In the next article, we will explain how to equip the hydraulic system at home and how to create a combined water tower for home and household.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Dachas (not all) have central water supply, but tap water is often cold and summer residents defend water in barrels in order to start watering later, since it is strictly forbidden to water plants and vegetables with cold water, this can lead to their death, and this not very desirable, given how much effort and time was spent on caring for this culture. Yes, and just wash your hands or wash your face is not very pleasant with cold water. Yes, and it is not uncommon that water can simply be turned off due to a breakdown in the water supply network.

It follows from this that you need to make a supply of water and the more, the better for the summer resident and for his gardening. The standard country reservoir is a large capacity for a couple of cubic meters of water, some have more, some have less. Water from such reservoirs has to be drawn in buckets and then distributed according to one's needs for irrigation or for a washbasin, or for other household needs.

The author decided to radically solve this problem and make a personal water tower from improvised means on his personal plot in order to save the family budget. And so what is the principle of this design: everything is simple, the author makes a farm out of corners and channels, and installs containers on it, in this case two plastic barrels of 200 liters and connected them together, it turned out 400 liters of total volume. Water is supplied to the top from a general water supply hose (or). The water at the top in the summer quickly heats up and settles.

The author also made the wiring of water pipes for the shower, for watering the beds with vegetables, for the washbasin, even made his wife pleasant and connected a washing machine to the home plumbing. The pressure is quite decent and the garden can be watered with warm slop water from a hose, which frees you from exhausting running around the garden with buckets and watering cans for watering. And so let's consider further what the author needed to build a water tower with his own hands.

Materials: barrels 200 l, metal corners and channels, cement mortar, silicone sealant, plastic water pipe.
Instruments: welding machine, grinder, drill, hammer, pliers.

Then the legs were dug into the ground and filled with cement mortar so that the structure stood firmly on its feet.

Further, on top of this farm, I installed plastic barrels that will serve as a reservoir.

And the last thing I did was wiring the plumbing throughout the dacha for the washbasin, watering, shower, washing machine.

In this article we will talk about what constitutes water supply in the country, what are the principles of its construction. The topic of the article is of considerable interest, since most of the country houses, due to their remoteness from the highway, can be equipped with autonomous water supply systems.

The best option for the device of such systems is their development at the design stage of a construction object. But it often turns out that systems designed for water intake are already being built when the country house is in operation. That is why the organization of water supply in the country requires a professional approach.

Device Features

Structurally, an autonomous water supply to a dacha is a system that includes a source (well or well) and equipment responsible for supplying water to the consumer.

Due to the use of modern technologies, country water supply, arranged on the basis of artesian wells, is not inferior to the use of city water supply in terms of comfort and ease of operation, and surpasses it by an order of magnitude in terms of environmental friendliness.

Important: The water supply system in the country is technologically connected with.
That is why it is necessary to correctly calculate the performance of downhole pumping equipment in accordance with the performance parameters of the other two systems.

The effectiveness of the organization of the water supply system is determined by a number of the following factors:

estimated consumption volumes;
type of well used;
the location of the aquifer;
type of sewerage used;
type of sewage disposal system used.

Given these parameters, it is possible to select the appropriate type of downhole pumping equipment and related devices. The location of the liquid medium supply system can be ground, for example, in a special technical room, or underground - located in a caisson.

After we have listed the main criteria that determine the efficiency of autonomous water supply systems, we will consider specific examples of the design of such systems. We will draw up a list of examples from simple to complex and, perhaps, we will start with the most primitive, but the most common option - using a well.

Features of the operation of wells

If you are interested in the do-it-yourself water supply scheme in the country house being developed and implemented at minimal cost, then a well is exactly what you need.

The organization of such a system is characterized by the following advantages:

ease of construction with your own hands with minimal use of special equipment;
ease of operation and maintenance of the well;
acceptable price of the finished system, in comparison with more technically complex downhole analogues;
a wide range of pumping equipment suitable for these purposes.

The use of a well can satisfy the water needs of small and medium-sized summer cottages.

To lift the liquid medium from the well and then supply it to the pipeline, low-power pumps of the surface or submersible type are used. The best option is to use submersible vibration pumps "Kid" or similar devices.

To ensure effective surface water intake, a water supply pumping station is used. Considering the manufacturability and considerable cost of the equipment, the water supply station for the dacha is installed indoors, where the installation is optimally protected from the negative effects of environmental factors.

On the one hand, an internal pipeline is connected to the station, and on the other hand, a hose is connected that goes into the well.

Important: The use of surface pumping equipment is capable of effectively lifting water from a depth of no more than 10 meters.

The water raised from the well, without special treatment, is suitable for irrigation and meeting technical needs. Additional cleaning involves the use of special multi-level filtering equipment. The need for this is explained by the fact that well water is taken from the upper horizon, which is not protected from the penetration of contaminated ground and surface waters.

Other disadvantages of using wells include low flow and unstable water levels and, as a result, a high probability of drying out.

Shallow wells (Abyssinian well)

If the installation of water supply in the country should be done quickly and at minimal cost, you can build a shallow well - the so-called Abyssinian well.

The technology of drilling such wells has been tested for many centuries and during this time has proven its worth. However, there is one significant drawback, since water rises from a relatively small depth of occurrence (no more than 10 meters), an effective filtration system will be required for its coarse and fine purification.

The technology for arranging such sources consists in driving narrow pipes (no thicker than 2 inches) into the ground until an aquifer is found. A significant advantage of this solution is the affordable price and the ability to do the water supply of a country house with your own hands without the involvement of qualified specialists.

Features of the device of underground pumping complexes (PNK)

A modern water supply system for a summer residence, built on the basis of a well and a single-level underground pumping complex, is becoming more widespread.

The popularity of the solution is explained by:

effectiveness of everyday use;
saving space in the room due to the external location of the equipment;
the possibility of all-weather installation of the station;
the possibility of all-season operation of the station, despite the external location of the equipment.

The installation of the FPU, as well as the commissioning, must be carried out by qualified specialists. It will be possible to reduce the cost of the finished result by independently digging, in accordance with the project, a hole for laying equipment and preparing a trench for laying network cables and a hose.

The operating instructions for such pumping complexes are as follows:

the well pump turns on and pumps water from the well into a membrane tank located in the caisson;
as water fills the tank, it presses on the rubber membrane, which, in turn, puts pressure on the air in the adjacent chamber (up to 4 atmospheres);
when the pressure reaches the maximum allowable limit, the pump automatically turns off;
as the water from the storage tank is used, the pressure reaches the level when the pump turns on again and again pumps the required amount of water.

Important: Such a water supply for a summer residence works with pumping equipment capable of providing water consumption in the range of 1-16 m³ / h.
For example, we note that within an hour, up to 0.4 m³ flows through one open tap.

A more complex development of this technology is a two-level underground pumping complex, equipped with a storage tank, the volume of which can reach 10-20 m³. The storage tank used is made of stainless steel.

The principle of operation of such a system is in many ways similar to the use of a water tower. The difference lies in the absence of a height difference, due to which water flows from the tower with pressure.

In a two-level FNK, the water pressure is created by the operation of special pumping equipment. As a result, one pump works to supply water to the reservoir, while the second pump pumps the liquid medium into the consumer pipeline. Systems of this type provide water consumption in the range of 10-40 m³ / hour.

Features of the operation of the water tower

Today, when country houses are being built from block containers and other available materials, small country villages appear everywhere, which are in dire need of connection to various engineering communications. And if, in the absence of a stable supply of electricity, the solution to the problem will be the purchase or rental of a diesel generator for a summer residence, then a completely different approach will be required for the installation of water supply systems.

In many holiday villages located at a great distance from the garden, centralized systems are used, built on the basis of artesian wells and a water tower with a capacious storage tank.

The construction of such systems is an expensive and time-consuming process. Nevertheless, ready-made systems are distinguished by reliability and ease of everyday use.

The presence of a storage tank allows you to accumulate a certain amount of water. As a result, several consumers can simultaneously receive the required volume of water, which will be supplied through the pipeline with an acceptable pressure.

Important: Due to the use of a storage tank, the number of switching on and off of pumping equipment is significantly reduced, which has a positive effect on the duration of the operating life.

Among the advantages of using systems with a water tower, we note the following:

constant pressure in the pipeline;
economical consumption of electricity required for the operation of the pump;
no interruptions in water supply;
the possibility of simultaneous supply of water to several consumers at once;
acceptable cost of water.

However, along with the advantages, there are several significant disadvantages, among which it should be noted:

the possibility of operating the system exclusively in the warm season;
inexpediency of using the system as a stand-alone solution based on one country house.
a high probability of oxidation of the internal walls of the storage tank, since these tanks are mainly made of ordinary sheet steel.
to ensure the required pressure parameters in the pipeline, it is necessary to build a pressure tower with a large storage height.