Advertising on the portal

2nd floor extension to a wooden house. How to add a second floor to a brick house? Recommendations for strengthening load-bearing elements of a structure

Good afternoon, master! There is a 7x8 log house, it is necessary to increase the living space. The house is about 50-60 years old. We can't choose between:

1. Make a frame 2nd floor or 2. Make an extension (and which is better? I’m leaning towards timber without connection to the house, but close). Doubts consist of the following. The foundation under the house is simply 4 layers of brick, which are clearly no longer fresh (although in the basement there is 1.2 m high brick masonry laid around the entire perimeter at a distance of 0.5 m from the foundation - I don’t know what it’s called correctly so that the soil doesn’t squeezed out).

The lower crown on at least one of the most unprotected sides (the others have not yet been opened) must be replaced, and the other parts must also be changed. The roof is now hipped. Need advice on whether to think about the second floor with such initial data? Although, in theory, we will still repair the lower crown. Or financially, all this will be much more expensive than an extension - this is also one of the main questions, which will be cheaper. The lower crown lies practically on the ground, so they just wanted to cut it out and raise the foundation (well, so as not to lift the house or move it).

The question is whether to raise the foundation with masonry or to fill the brick with concrete upwards and wider. Which one is better? Actually, all the other logs in the log house are good.

If you make an extension, is it better if there is no common wall? not to get attached? Or you can. And please write which one is better to make the foundation in both cases. Thank you!

Oleg, Berezniki, Perm region.

Hello, Oleg from Berezniki!

If you do not go into details and speculate pointlessly without seeing with your own eyes the state of your foundation, then it is hardly possible to significantly strengthen the foundation of the described house. At a stretch, 4 layers of brick can be considered a foundation.

Therefore, replacing one lower crown is unlikely to radically change the situation.

Therefore, the load from a built-on second floor, even a frame one, may not have the best effect on your home. Building an extension is most likely a better idea.

For joint “body movements” of the old house and the new extension, ideally, completely equal characteristics are needed. Which is achieved only through full compliance of their foundations. Since this is hardly achievable due to the nature of some of their data, it is better to make the extension autonomous, without a strict connection to the old house.

It's not that difficult to do. Since most often the problem is only in designing the door opening from the extension to the main house in such a way that with possible vertical movements of the house and the extension, there will not be excessive gaps at the joints.

You must have seen how two separate bodies of a long passenger bus are connected to each other through a kind of corrugated vestibule. And the space is united and relative movements can take place without destruction.

The same thing should happen in your building. This is usually achieved by using mineral soft insulation at the joints. With all kinds of linings and decorative elements covering this insulation from the effects of primarily atmospheric precipitation. Each time and in each individual case this is decided strictly individually. With a certain amount of imagination of the builders.

In this case, great importance is attached to the connection of the roof of the extension with the roof (or the wall of the main house, if the extension is lower than the roof of the main house). Otherwise, there will be water leaks at the joint.

If the roofs of these individual parts are in the same plane, then the roofing sheets of the extension are structurally placed under the roof of the main house without their rigid connection and with the possibility of vertical displacement of the roof of the extension relative to the roof of the house itself. Typically down.

If the roof of the extension rests its end on the vertical wall of the main house, that is, it is lower than the main roof, then a metal apron made from a strip of roofing iron is attached to the wall at the desired angle (obtuse).

In this case, the apron may not be attached to the roof of the extension. And to eliminate the gap between it and the roof of the extension, foaming it with macroflex foam is usually sufficient.

See for yourself on the issue of foundation repair. Both the options you are talking about will not strengthen it much. Financial costs will be approximately equal. But in this case there is a simpler solution; there is no need to deal with the installation and dismantling of formwork for pouring and other not very convenient manipulations.

I don’t know how much my free thoughts on the topic of the question you asked will help in reality, but reading them won’t make you worse.

So start with the foundation and the outbuilding, and experience and understanding in solving problems will come with time.

Other questions on the topic of extensions to premises:

  • How to fill the gap between slag and timber walls

A frame extension to the main building is the easiest way to increase living space. In this way you can build a living room, technical room or covered veranda. The main thing is to correctly connect the house and its extension.

Selection of foundation and expansion joint

You should initially decide what the extension will be used for. The way of joining the foundation, walls and roof with the old house will depend on this. This is a key point, because with different types of structures they will shrink differently, which can lead to cracks and distortion of the walls of the extension.

If you are planning a living space, be it a kitchen or a bathroom, the extension to the frame house should be of the same type - made of the same materials, with a floor and walls of the same thickness as the main building. If the main foundation is strip, then the new one is joined rigidly, using driven reinforcement, and the formwork is installed close to the wall of the house.

This will allow you not to close the contour of the foundation and not to organize an expansion joint along the entire perimeter. But with a rigid connection, the foundation must be very stable and not sag. Therefore, it is recommended to compact the soil well under the cushion, and make the cushion itself reinforced and 15 cm wider than the foundation strip. In this case, it is better to use crushed stone rather than gravel.

If the weight of the extension and the building is very different, or a different type of foundation is chosen, it is necessary to organize an expansion joint. The extension can be made either in the shape of the letter P, without closing the contour, or by erecting all four walls.

In the first case, the expansion joint is made only at the junction of the house and the extension. This is the most convenient way to connect an extension with your own hands. If the finished foundation is level and strictly vertical, the expansion joint can be made using ordinary roofing felt - it will provide the possibility of vertical displacement of buildings.

Otherwise, it is better to use thicker and more elastic material - foamed polyethylene and expanded polystyrene. The smoother the foundation, the smaller the thickness of the expansion joint. The smooth side of the sheets is placed on the new foundation. The outer part of the seam is filled with sealant and covered with a flashing that is attached only to the existing wall.

A four-sided foundation is needed if there is a risk of strong displacement of the house and the extension - with significantly different weights, heaving soil or an unstable foundation. Then an expansion joint 1-2.5 cm wide is made between the two buildings along the entire perimeter. The walls and roof in this case should not be rigidly connected either.

Construction of walls and their connection to the house

If the house and the extension are on the same foundation and are framed, erecting walls will not be a problem. The section of the beams is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. For example, if a sheet of mineral wool is 15 cm thick, then the beams must be selected with the same cross-section of one of the sides. The main thing is not to confuse which side to attach them to the harness.

The walls are erected in the following order:

1. The lower frame is laid on the foundation. Between the wood and concrete you need to lay waterproofing - roofing felt or foamed polyethylene. The strapping is screwed on with ordinary dowels, and the corners are connected “in half a tree”.

2. If the extension is rigidly attached to the walls of the house, then the vertical beams are simply nailed to the walls, previously leveled. If not, then corner posts are installed first, which can be fixed with temporary bevels.

It is better to make the connection between the strapping and the bars by completely cutting it out and additionally fixing it with metal corners.

3. It is important to choose the right height of the vertical beams - whether the extension will be under a common roof or under a separate one.

4. The upper harness allows you to strengthen the frame and remove temporary cuts. The bars of the upper harness are connected to the vertical ones in the same way as the bottom.

5. After this, you can choose a location for the windows and/or doors. Additional racks are attached along the width of the openings and horizontal lintels are nailed along the height of the window and door.

6. Vertical bars are added in increments of 1 cm smaller than the selected insulation - it should lie as tightly as possible. You can also add horizontal jumpers, which will strengthen the entire structure - the distance between them is also 1 cm less than the height of the insulation if it is supplied in sheets rather than rolls.

It is important to remember that when using laminated veneer lumber, windows and doors cannot be installed immediately. The structure may shrink. Sheathing of the assembled frame is done after the roofing is installed.

Sometimes the frame of an extension to a house is assembled separately, installing entire blocks on the bottom frame at once. This is very convenient for large structures - there is no need to fasten each vertical beam with temporary slopes and constantly work at height.

An expansion joint should be installed along the entire wall being added, if the foundation has a closed contour, or only at the junction of the walls of the house and the extension. The requirements for it are the same as for a foundation seam - an elastic seal is used inside, and the outer edge is treated with sealant.

The rafters of the extension are laid with the lower end on the upper frame, and the upper end is connected to the roof rafters or rests on a purlin nailed to the wall of the house. If the rafters are rigidly connected to the wall of the extension, the roof may not be able to withstand shrinkage and the upper fastenings will break off. Or the wall of the extension will begin to lean inward. Therefore, it is better to use movable joints to freely move the lower support.

For a roof with insulation, in addition to the horizontal lathing, a vertical counter-latten is also made, as well as additional lathing on the inside. If metal tiles are used, they can be laid directly on the sheathing, and for soft tiles, a moisture-resistant OSB board is mounted on the sheathing.

In the first case, the wall of the house is covered with a galvanized apron, bent at an angle and fixed on top of the roof of the extension. This will protect the wall from rain and the roofing pie from dampness.

In the second case, the roof will be common and will have to be completely re-roofed.

Wall cladding and insulation

After installing the roof, you can begin covering the walls. Despite the popular advice to first cover the walls with boards or OSB sheets for structural strength, doing this under the roof is much more convenient. First, the exterior of the extension is sheathed.

If non-glued laminated timber was used, then windows and doors are installed at the same stage. It is better to order a double-glazed window ready-made - with a double chamber for better thermal insulation. If you plan to install a door, it is better to hang it right away. The second post is adjusted to the door. Installing windows and doors before insulation allows you to fit the horizontal lintels and racks as tightly as possible to the openings.

After the external cladding, insulation is laid and the extension is sheathed from the inside. You can use the same OSB boards, plasterboard or lining. At the same stage, the roof is insulated - waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier are laid under the sheathing. Additional sheathing and internal lining are mounted on top.

For a living space, it is necessary to insulate the extension from the outside as well. The easiest way is foam plastic boards, which are attached to the wall using foam and screwed with self-tapping screws.

To prevent the screws from falling into the foam, rectangular or round spacers are used. Another trick is to ensure that the window slopes are even, the slabs are attached to the window frame with the side with the factory cuts and with a slight overlap.

Door slopes can be damaged during operation, so it is better to screw a beam as thick as insulation around the perimeter of the door with self-tapping screws. The ebb on the window can be attached with polyurethane foam, which can also be used to fill all the cracks. After this, a reinforcing mesh and reinforcing mortar are laid on the foam plastic, and all corners are reinforced with metal corners.

Floor installation in a frame extension

The floor for a small extension on a strip foundation could be filled with cement-sand screed. To do this, the entire perimeter inside the foundation was filled with brick rubble and compacted. You can lay tiles on top of such a floor - the best option for technical rooms.

If you are planning a living space, or a columnar foundation is chosen, it is best to install a wooden floor on joists.

For a strip foundation, the space under the floor should be insulated. The soil is selected to a depth of 25 cm and a layer of crushed stone is first poured into the resulting hole, compacted, a layer of sand is poured on top, moistened and compacted again. Brick pillars are placed on the resulting cushion - the logs will rest on them.

The advantage of flooring on joists is its multi-layer nature. Between the rough and finished floor there is a layer into which the insulation is laid. This allows you to create a truly warm floor that you don’t have to walk on with shoes on.

The video provides a detailed overview of the finished frame of the house extension:

Instructions

First, determine what height your house will be. In accordance with this height, it is necessary to install fireproof bulkheads, nailed across the middle of the height of the body, the hollow walls of the internal cladding of the house. Fire bulkheads are needed to protect the second floor in case of fire and slow down the burning of the house.

After the floor is laid on the frame, begin to assemble the walls, also lifting the slabs to the top. When lifting and assembling wall slabs, keep in mind that you will be working at height, which means you need at least one assistant to support you and support the slabs during installation.

Secure the walls with temporary support made from boards and lift the slabs into a vertical position, and then secure them to the floor. Additionally, you can add a balcony or greenhouse coming from the second floor.

Finish the construction of the second floor by erecting the ceilings and roof. If you work in a team with several assistants, building a house will not take you much time.

Sources:

  • build a second floor in a private house

Before you start adding a second floor, you need to weigh the pros and cons. As practice shows, it is easier to carry out new construction than to remodel an existing one. Therefore, it is easier to build a new two-story house than to rebuild an existing one-story house. In addition, the second floor doubles the problems: installation of the floor, walls, ceiling and roof will need to be done at height. Delivery of materials from the ground to the second floor will also be more difficult. If this does not stop you, start construction.

Instructions

Even at the initial stage of building a house, foresee in advance that it will be continued in the future. Make the roof structure such that the rafter system leaves free space for the construction of a second floor (such as an attic).

Make a frame from wooden blocks 50x50mm and 50x100mm. To do this, nail them to the vertical posts of the rafters. Cover the outside, from the attic side, with clapboard, waterproof it, and secure the insulation. Lay a vapor barrier film from the inside, make a sheathing and secure sheets of drywall to it with screws.

Then mount the ceiling. For the convenience of the work being carried out, it is advisable to remove part of the roof. Secure the ends of the floor beams to the vertical posts of the rafters. Strengthen 50x50mm bars from the bottom edge and lay floor boards on them. Lay a vapor barrier film, a layer of insulation, and waterproofing on top of the boards in layers. Cover the bottom of the ceiling with sheets of plasterboard or plywood. Return the removed outer roof to its place.

Now we need to provide natural lighting to the second floor. To do this, make a window opening in the gable and insulate the wall from the attic side. If there is not enough light, you can additionally make a lantern-type roof over the proposed second window. To do this, you need to make a vertical gap in the roof 100-120cm wide. Provide a gap height of 40-50cm from the attic ceiling. Make a window opening in the wall.

Make the floor in the same way as the floor of the first floor was made. The only difference is that on the second floor there is no subfloor. At the final stage, decide on the installation location and structure that will connect the first floor and the attic. To save space, use a spiral staircase.

Sources:

  • How to make a second floor out of an attic
  • how to make a second floor in a dacha

Quite a lot of people are engaged in the construction of two-story houses. The construction of the second floor must be carried out in accordance with all norms and regulations. In addition, during the construction of the second floor, everything must be calculated to the smallest detail. This matter must be taken responsibly.

Instructions

Before starting construction of the second, start installing the second floor joists on the top frame of the first. This is done so that you can move around the floor without problems. Boards are placed there. The result is a temporary floor.

Once the temporary floor is ready, install the exterior walls. Install the side walls, that is, those on which the rafters will rest. The walls are erected a little later, after the rafters have been installed. If necessary, raise the side ones to a certain height. Since the racks are attached to the floor joists, the length of the racks for the walls of the second floor will be increased by the width of the joists.

To build the second floor, you can use boards with a section of 150x50 millimeters. Install the top trim (also called double) on the side wall posts. She will be the Mauerlat.

Next, collect the middle one. This wall will be the highest in the house. Its height will be about 5 meters, and it goes from the floor of the second floor to the ridge of the roof. The roof ridge rests on the top of this wall. The height of the wall is determined by the angle of inclination of the roof itself. The wall is also assembled from racks, and each rack is fixed with temporary jibs.

To raise and secure the top trim boards on top of the wall, nail the boards horizontally to the posts. The end result will be something similar to a ladder. The strapping boards need to be lifted by two people. You climb up this ladder, and your partner climbs up the six-meter folding ladder provided. Once the installation of the double top trim is completed, the middle wall can be considered ready.

Video on the topic

Sources:

  • how to add a second floor to an old house

If you want to increase the footage of your residential country house by building a second floor, you should remember a number of important rules. They will not only allow you to complete the construction without danger to you and your loved ones, but will also save time and money.

Instructions

Next, determine your capabilities. The point is that if your house has a small roof, and the area you would like as a result is significantly larger than what is in the attic, you will have to tear down the roof. If it is large enough, and the required footage is the opposite, simply purchase the required amount of material to decorate the attic for another room. Most likely, you will need several rolls of insulation and top finishing material along with plywood sheets on which it will be placed. If you do decide to demolish the roof, first prepare everything you need to lay the foundation for the second floor and a temporary roof for the first, since in case of rain, those living in the house, and everything that is in it, will not be “at all sweet.” Go to the construction center and purchase the required amount of plywood, load-bearing beams, mounting fasteners, and all the necessary finishing materials. If you are in doubt about what to purchase, consult with the seller for clarification.

Learn how your roof is attached to the base of the building and how it can be removed without major damage. If there is no way to carefully remove it, just try to save as much material as possible to build a new one.

Once the roof is removed, begin installing the support beams. They will become the support of your new floor. Once everything is installed, cover the floor with plywood sheets, and you can consider that half the job is done.

The rest of the procedure is no different from building a regular house - select places to install wooden columns that will support the roof, and build the walls of the house. Once the base is complete, you can begin dividing the floor into rooms or zones.

Build a new roof directly on the building itself. Despite the difficulties with such construction, this will help you make it as reliable and safe as possible.

Sources:

  • Do-it-yourself attic from scratch, choice of design, materials

If your home becomes cramped over time, you have a great opportunity to expand its area by building a second floor. However, when constructing such a structure, it is necessary to strictly adhere to certain rules:

Instructions

Decide on your financial capabilities, as well as the design features of your home. If the roof of your house is small, and you would like to significantly expand the living space, construction will have to begin with the demolition of the old roof. If it is large enough, you can simply purchase the required amount of building materials and decorate the attic for another living room. If you nevertheless decide to start construction by demolishing the old roof, prepare in advance building materials for the construction of the second floor and roofing materials to create a temporary roof for the first floor, since the very first rain can greatly ruin your home.

Try to remove the roof from the base of the building with as little damage as possible. Save as many building materials as possible for the construction of a new one. This will significantly reduce costs and avoid unnecessary loss of your property.

With the roof removed, begin installing the support beams. This is the future support for your second floor. Once done, cover the floor with plywood sheets and consider the job half finished.

The rest of this case differs little from building an ordinary house. Determine the height of future ceilings and places to place the wooden columns on which you will install the roof and then begin building the walls.

Complete the construction of the main part of the building, then erect the roof, divide the resulting second floor into rooms and begin interior decoration. Cover the floor with linoleum or other covering, select finishing materials for the walls and ceiling.

Remember that a new roof must be erected on the building itself. Only in this case will the resulting design be as reliable and safe as possible.
Work with the participation of several assistants will move much faster than if you work alone, so it is better not to skimp on hiring qualified workers.

How to build a two-story house without the help of professional teams? To do this, you need to carefully think through the project, select the optimal materials, and then gradually carry out construction, strictly following the chosen project.

Instructions

If you want to build a two-story house, first decide on its purpose, since construction technology differs significantly from construction methods for. When planning the construction of a reliable house, purchase shell rock, since a building from this material can be erected in a short time. Only a specialist can complete a full-fledged building project, so buy a ready-made project or use standard projects presented on the Internet or in specialized publications.

To build a two-story house with your own hands, first, start by digging a trench around the perimeter of the future building and pouring a concrete foundation, the height of which is at least a meter. During preparatory work, outline the perimeter of the future building, and then level the surface of the site by removing the top layer of soil. When creating a foundation, pay attention to whether groundwater accumulates in the trench, and if it is detected, go deeper into the ground, making the foundation higher and wider. Remember that the foundation must be located under all load-bearing walls, otherwise cracks may subsequently appear on them.

Having waterproofed the base of the house, proceed to the construction of walls, clearly leveling each stone using a special level and monitoring the joints of the corners, not forgetting to leave space for door and window openings. Once the first floor walls are completed, use floor slabs or rebar to create the foundation for the second floor of your home, and then begin building the walls. When choosing a simplified roofing option, use a gable roof structure, covering it with ordinary slate.

When constructing a two-story house yourself, after erecting its frame and installing the roof, erect all the internal partitions, mount the stairs, bring utilities inside the building, and then begin installing windows and entrance doors. After this, carry out facade work, insulate the external walls, and then finish them with structural plaster or inexpensive siding. Move on to the interior work, screed the floor, level and putty the walls, and the final stage will be finishing, installing interior doors, tiling the floor and walls, and creating the interior.

Video on the topic

Building a house is a technically complex undertaking, especially a two-story one. To do this, quite a lot of work needs to be done to coordinate and resolve many issues. The process itself is quite long and can last more than one month. It is best to invite a construction company to build a two-story house.

You will need

  • - cement;
  • - sand;
  • - concrete;
  • - foundation blocks;
  • - foam concrete blocks;
  • - boards, rafters;
  • - floor slabs;
  • - fittings;
  • - heavy construction equipment.

Instructions

Make a strip foundation on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. To do this, after marking the area under it, remove the plant layer of soil. Dig a pit 1.7 m deep and level its walls and bottom.

Cover the bottom of the pit with a 20 cm layer of sand and compact it. Then pour concrete grade M100 over it (layer thickness approximately 15 cm). During this process, carefully level it over the entire surface. Wait 48 hours for it to set completely. After this, place 3 layers of waterproofing on the concrete: the first is bitumen mastic, the second and third are built-up waterproofing material. After 24 hours, start building the formwork for making a reinforced reinforced concrete slab 30 cm thick. Make a welded frame from reinforcement (grade A-III, diameter 12 mm) and fill it with M200 concrete, leave the structure for 48 hours.

Dig trenches to supply sewerage and water supply to the house. Set the foundation. To do this, use FBS (40 × 60 × 120 cm). Use a crane during installation. Fasten the blocks together with cement mortar. Lay four rows. When laying the first row, leave an opening for the pipes. Cover the outside of the foundation walls with bitumen mastic (2 layers). Then spread roll waterproofing over its horizontal surface. Lay several rows of brickwork, two bricks wide, on top of the blocks. The ground floor was 2.5 meters high.

Adding a second floor is the most profitable method of increasing living space

The superstructure of the second floor can be with or without strengthening the structure of an already finished house. From an economic point of view, setting up the second floor of a house, or an attic, or additional floors, is always an expedient and profitable solution to the housing issue. After all, there is already a foundation and land, communications, utility networks, infrastructure, it is much cheaper than building a new house.

For comfortable living and full-fledged life of people, sufficient space is necessary to provide personal space for all residents of the house. The problem of lack of square meters can be solved by adding a second floor or a residential attic.

When choosing the option of a built-on floor, they are guided, first of all, by the cost of the building, its purpose, as well as the architectural features of the structure. As a rule, it is cheaper due to savings when purchasing building materials for building walls. In addition, installing a full floor requires additional expenses to strengthen the foundation of the building.

The construction of an attic is suitable for arranging a cozy bedroom, a study, a room for children or for recreation, for example, a billiard room. If the area to be completed is planned to accommodate several rooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom, it is recommended to install a full floor.


Designing a house with an attic floor

Important!

Competent design of the walls and roof of the attic floor allows you to equip a fairly spacious, cozy and functional living space.

The decision in favor of constructing an attic or an entire floor largely depends on the architectural and technical characteristics of the building, as well as the individual preferences of its owner. The structural features of the attic with various roof shapes, compact balconies and terraces allow you to create a more original exterior of the building. The additional full floor has a more ascetic appearance.

Engineering and technical examination of the condition of the building

It is allowed to begin the construction of an additional floor after a detailed study of the technical characteristics of the structure. Engineering and technical expertise makes it possible to calculate changes in the load on the load-bearing structures of the structure and determine the location of partitions. The implementation of the engineering and technical inspection procedure is within the competence of public and private organizations that have the appropriate documents permitting the provision of such services.

During the research process, the following object parameters are determined:

  • technical condition of the building's components;
  • safety margin of load-bearing structures;
  • features of strengthening structural elements.


Construction and technical expertise is one of the most popular, labor-intensive and complex expertise

To identify even hidden flaws, a comprehensive inspection of the object is carried out. Eliminating existing shortcomings will help prevent additional material costs in the future. A comprehensive study includes several stages:

  • collection of information about the technical characteristics of the house, the building materials used, duration and operating conditions;
  • drawing up a plan for research activities;
  • inspection of the structure using special equipment;
  • laboratory testing of samples;
  • preparation of a technical report.

After a visual inspection and a detailed examination of the organization’s experts, inspection reports and a technical report are issued containing a research action plan, the results obtained, their assessment, conclusion and advice on strengthening the structure.

Types of technologies for adding an additional floor

Depending on the condition of the load-bearing elements of the structure and the permissible load, the materials and features of the construction of the additional floor are determined. If the safety margin of the load-bearing structures is insufficient, the foundation, walls and rafter system of the structure are first strengthened. When constructing an attic space in an apartment building, the safety of other residents is a fundamental aspect.


Frame extension of the second floor in a private house

Installation of the second floor can be carried out in the following ways:

  • masonry;
  • structures made of reinforced concrete elements;
  • from wooden logs or timber;
  • use of frame technology;
  • combined options.

Metal frame and truss structures are durable and affordable. Some difficulties may arise when lifting heavy parts to the site where an additional level is being built. This will most likely require the use of special construction equipment.

Important!

Before installing an additional floor made of reinforced concrete elements or bricks, it is necessary to thoroughly strengthen the walls and foundation. To reduce the load on the structure of the house, supporting piles are placed along its entire perimeter.

A floor made of wooden beams is the most suitable for human habitation due to its environmental properties. Certain inconveniences arise at the stage of final finishing of the room. It is recommended to start this type of work only after a year.


Second floor superstructure made of wooden beams

In conditions of limited financial capabilities and time to strengthen the structure for the construction of the second floor, it is advisable to carry out its superstructure using lightweight frame panels or ready-made prefabricated structures. Their main advantages include light weight, fire safety, affordable cost, and quick installation.

The modern building materials market has prefabricated structures consisting of individual parts. They can be made of various materials, but the most popular are wood products. Installation of a single structure is carried out directly on the site of the floor superstructure. Wooden parts are connected using keyed fastenings. Joining of glued bent beams is carried out using the keyway method.

Recommendations for strengthening load-bearing elements of a structure

Based on the results of the engineering survey, as well as the degree of deterioration of the load-bearing elements of the structure, additional reinforcement of the base and walls may be required to add an additional floor. This will ensure the safety of the future structure and extend its service life.

When constructing an additional floor, the following measures are carried out aimed at reconstruction and increasing strength:

  • strengthening the base;
  • increasing the width and depth of the foundation base;
  • replacement of base elements.


The process of strengthening the foundation of a private house

The necessary work to strengthen the foundation of the house is determined based on the characteristics of the reconstruction project. To strengthen the base of a wooden structure or replace supports, objects and things are taken out of the room. Entrance and interior doors are removed and floors are dismantled. Next, the structure is raised using special jacks and a new foundation is laid.

The building can be reliably strengthened by installing a monolithic belt with reinforcement. This structure is a protective layer of reinforced concrete located on the outside of the building, following the contours of its walls.

Important!

Strengthening the walls of a building after installing a reinforced belt is not recommended until after a year. This is due to the possibility of shrinkage of the new foundation.

To install a reinforced belt around the perimeter of the structure, a trench is dug at a depth exceeding the level of the old foundation by at least 80 cm. The width of the trench is on average 50 cm. Sheathing is made from boards or plywood. A layer of crushed stone and gravel is poured into the trench. Thoroughly clean the surface of the old foundation and apply a primer with a high degree of penetration. Then horizontal pins are driven into the base to be strengthened at a distance of 25 cm from each other. The pins located in several rows are welded to metal reinforcement, a mesh is laid on it and filled with concrete solution.


Scheme of strengthening the foundation of a brick house

If you plan to add an attic or full floor from light building materials, only the corners of the building can be strengthened. The diameter of the trench around the corners should be approximately 1 m, its depth should exceed the depth of the previous foundation by 50 cm or more. The metal lattice is welded to the reinforcement bars of the house’s foundation, and the space is filled with concrete.

Foundation repair

Ways to reduce the load on the foundation and walls of a house

To reduce or completely redistribute the load from load-bearing elements, a special frame is installed outside or inside the building. The internal frame is a fortification located indoors. When building an additional level, the load will be distributed on the additional frame and walls of the house.

When installing a frame located outside, piles or columns are installed along the perimeter of the structure, as well as load-bearing single-span beams. To install the columns, the base is first poured.

To partially unload the load-bearing elements of the house, wooden or metal supports installed temporarily are used. The process of installing such reinforcement involves laying special support pads at a distance of 150-200 cm from the walls of the house. Racks, usually made of wood, are installed on the beam, located on support pads.

The top frame is attached to the wooden posts using brackets. Next, wedges are driven between the lower beam and the uprights. After which the load on the walls is partially reduced and distributed over temporarily installed supports.

Important!

In an apartment building, the supports located on each floor must be placed one above the other. Strengthening the racks with braces increases the strength of the structure.

Complete unloading of the foundation of the house is carried out using beams (rand beams) embedded in the masonry of the wall, as well as beams made of reinforced concrete or metal located across them. The walls are pre-drilled for beams and a cement-sand cushion is installed. The rand beams are installed in the groove and secured with wedges. The space between the beams and walls is filled with a mixture of cement and sand. As a result, the load is distributed onto the new foundation.


Strengthening the load-bearing structures of the foundation using external reinforcement with concrete

Sequence of work when adding a second floor

The additional level superstructure is carried out in accordance with the drawn up project, which includes a list of works on insulation, waterproofing, and installation of communication systems. It is also necessary to ensure adequate ventilation of the attic space.

The process of adding an additional floor includes the following main steps:

  • roof dismantling;
  • delivery of building materials to the construction site;
  • installation of trim, frame racks and rafters;
  • external cladding of the frame with oriented strand boards;
  • installation of waterproofing, insulation, vapor barrier;
  • interior paneling;
  • installation of roofing material;
  • arrangement of floors, walls, ceilings;
  • decorative decoration of the room.

The assembly of an additional floor of the building must begin with the installation of the base. The timber for the installation of the lower harness is usually connected to each other using the “claw” method. Then the vertical side posts are also attached to the harness. It is better to attach corner posts to the base using the “groove-tenon” type of connection. To do this, a groove is made in the strapping bars, and a tenon is made on the corner posts.


Adding a second floor with your own hands is a responsible task

In a building with an area of ​​no more than 100 square meters. it is possible to install a wooden subfloor on joists. In a larger apartment building, to install the floor of an additional floor, it is necessary to use more powerful monolithic structures or using reinforced concrete slabs.

The roof is constructed from trusses, which are attached to the longitudinal beams with dowels. Then the sheathing is done with boards, and steam and waterproofing of the roof is laid. After which you can begin installing the roofing material.

The location of windows and stairs is thought out in advance. When constructing a full floor, the stairwell is located above the hallway or living room. You can divide the room into rooms using plasterboard partitions. It is more convenient to place the entrance to the attic room from the side of the veranda, terrace or corridor.