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Calendar of work for the whole year in the garden. Galina Kizima - annual cycle of work in the garden Calendar of work for the whole year What, when and how to do on the garden plot

Nature dictates. Garden work calendar Galina Kizima

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Title: Nature dictates. Garden work calendar

About the book by Galina Kizima “Nature dictates. Calendar of work on the garden plot"

In nature, everything happens in its own time and in a strictly defined sequence, which does not change under any weather conditions. The flowering of some plants follows the flowering of others. If the timing of the beginning of flowering of the signal plant shifts, the timing of fruit ripening on a completely different plant will shift.

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima has created a work calendar that can be used anywhere, in any year and in almost any weather.

On our website about books lifeinbooks.net you can download for free without registration or read online the book by Galina Kizima “Nature Dictates. Calendar of work on the garden plot" in epub, fb2, txt, rtf, pdf formats for iPad, iPhone, Android and Kindle. The book will give you a lot of pleasant moments and real pleasure from reading. You can buy the full version from our partner. Also, here you will find the latest news from the literary world, learn the biography of your favorite authors. For beginning writers, there is a separate section with useful tips and tricks, interesting articles, thanks to which you yourself can try your hand at literary crafts.

Galina Alexandrovna Kizima

What and when to plant, protect and fertilize. Annual cycle of work with the lunar calendar until 2015

Work calendar for the whole year. What, when and how to do in the garden

The calendar, addressed to amateur gardeners, lists by month the main work that needs to be done in the garden, vegetable garden, and flower garden throughout the year. But the weather, as you know, is a capricious lady, and for example, the onset of spring may shift two weeks earlier or later relative to the calendar date, so the deadlines for completing these works are indicated approximately. It is also important to take into account the difference in the timing of plant development in the south and north. Thus, the beginning of sap flow in plants in the south occurs, on average, a month and a half earlier than in the north, so you should not literally follow the calendar; it is much more important to carefully monitor the condition of the plants in your area and, taking into account local weather conditions, carry out the work recommended in the calendar on time.

As for the phenological timing between the beginning of flowering of coltsfoot and bird cherry, currant, and apple trees, they are surprisingly stable. Therefore, you can always quite accurately determine the beginning of flowering of, say, an apple tree in your region in any year by the beginning of flowering of coltsfoot, since the relationships between the beginning of flowering of all crops are maintained from year to year and in all regions.

Notice the day when coltsfoot flowers bloom in your area. In 15–17 days, buds will begin to bloom on birch, mountain ash and currants. 28 days after the coltsfoot begins to bloom, the bird cherry will bloom, and after another week the gooseberry will bloom. 5 days after this, black currants bloom, followed a couple of days later by cherries and plums. The flowering of the apple tree of summer varieties will be delayed for another 3 days, and only after that, after 3–4 days, the strawberries will begin to bloom, and literally the next day the lilac will bloom. Red rowan will bloom another 2 days later, and from this point on the recurrent night frosts usually stop. True, for the North-West, this law can be violated, and frosts can occur even in the twenties of June. Raspberries are the last to bloom - 12–13 days after red rowan.

In addition to the list of necessary work, the calendar contains advice on agricultural technology, the secrets of a good harvest, it offers methods for protecting plants without the use of chemical poisons, and provides the necessary information about useful new products that have appeared in gardening stores.

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima

For intelligently lazy gardeners

It would be nice for all gardeners who have reached adulthood to become rationally lazy. It should be remembered that we are not for the garden, but it is for us. We need to organize things in such a way that we not only work in the garden from dawn to dusk, but also have time to relax and admire our achievements, otherwise many people plant flowers, but during the entire season they cannot find even a minute to look at them. As they say, to work less, you need to think more. So, what can be offered for the intelligently lazy?

1. Plan the work in advance, highlighting the most urgent and important ones. Everything must be done on time, then you will have time to do everything, and there will even be time left, because most of the work can be done in the fall after harvesting. This is exactly what this book was designed for. All garden work is sequentially distributed over the months so that you can get everything done in time. They must be performed in the order specified.

2. The most difficult work on the site is digging the ground. Do not dig, but loosen; to do this, you need to make the soil in your area light and loose; if necessary, make it artificial. I already wrote about this in the book “As You Plant, So You Eat.”

3. Another equally labor-intensive job is weeding. Don't water. Or use the advice of Dr. Mittleider: with a high concentration of mineral salts, weeds do not grow in his beds, but grow only on the earthen roll around the bed. To prevent this, the rollers fall apart as soon as the weeds emerge, and a day later they are raked around the beds again. You can edge the beds with boards, poles, and on the bed itself, pre-grow weeds under the film, and as soon as their shoots appear, remove the film, loosen the soil and leave the weeds for a day without shelter, as a result of which they will all die. After this, you can sow cultivated plants, but you cannot dig up such a bed, otherwise you will again bring weed seeds from a deeper layer of soil to the surface, and they will begin to grow again. In the spring, when sowing, sow the prepared bed as soon as you prepare the soil, without delaying this work for a minute, so as not to give the weeds the opportunity to overtake the cultivated plants.

To avoid weeding strawberries, plant them on black spunbond. In this case, no watering will be required, the berries will not suffer from gray rot, the mustache will not take root, and the processing of the bushes will be greatly simplified.

Do not water the weeds under berry bushes and trees, but only cut them at the soil level with a special weeder, or a sharpened shovel or a Fokin flat cutter and leave them right there under the plants. Firstly, it is the organic matter necessary for plants, and secondly, it is mulch, which protects the top layer of soil from drying out, which halves the amount of watering. Thirdly, there is no need to compost the weeds and then return the rotted compost back under the bushes - let them rot right on the spot naturally. And fourthly, a layer of mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, so they will grow less and less. Pour all the slops and water from the laundry one by one directly under the apple trees, and to prevent flies from appearing in the slops, cover them with cut weeds. And don’t be afraid of the pests that supposedly hibernate under the layer of this mulch - there are no less and no more of them than usual. There is no need to dig up the tree trunk circles. When treating your garden for pests in the fall, spray not only the plantings, but also the soil underneath them - the pests will die.

4. Another time-consuming job is watering. To prevent the seeds sown in the spring from drying out, they must be covered with film or double spunbond immediately after sowing and the film should be removed only after germination, and the spunbond should be left in one layer - then you won’t have to deal with pests. Systematic watering is required only for young shoots of greens and vegetables in the spring, and starting from the moment the root crop or bulb sets, watering should be stopped altogether. Only cabbage and radishes need constant watering. Cucumbers can be immediately planted on gel (“Aquadon”), which retains moisture in the soil, and then they can be watered once every two weeks. Many people believe that zucchini and pumpkins also need constant watering, like, say, cucumbers. And they are mistaken, because, unlike cucumbers, these crops are drought-resistant and need to be watered sparingly.

In greenhouses, it is best to organize drip irrigation; to do this, between every four plants you need to stick plastic two-liter bottles of water, from which, of course, you need to unscrew the caps and make holes with a hot nail along the side surface on the lower third of the bottle. This part of the bottle should be in the soil. If the water flows out too quickly, you need to turn the bottle several times so that an earthen plug forms in the holes. Water will slowly seep into the root zone, and the roots will all gather near the drinking bowl in search of moisture. Such a root system is not afraid of drought, unlike a pampered one, which is always watered in excess, and therefore is in the upper layer and, naturally, easily dies at the slightest drought, so you have to carry water to the greenhouses all the time. You can pour not water into these plastic drinkers, but a weak solution of mineral fertilizers, then the plants will constantly receive not only water, but also fertilizing. And you will have less work. You can lay hoses with small holes along the entire length of the bed and connect them to a container into which you will pour a weak fertilizing solution.

5. Another favorite activity that can be avoided is pest and disease control. Nobody attacks healthy plants, because they quickly synthesize protein, and there is more of it in the cell sap than carbohydrates, and pests, as you know, prefer sugar, that is, carbohydrates. In weakened plants, protein synthesis is slow and carbohydrates predominate in the cell sap, which is what pests look for in order to feed. So try to keep the plants in your area healthy, help them, if necessary, strengthen their own immune system with the help of the latest drugs of biological origin. Use good seeds of zoned varieties, plant varieties and hybrids that are resistant to common diseases, do not use pesticides - do not interfere with beneficial insects and birds to cope with pests themselves. And to strengthen the immune system of plants, spray your garden with Silk (or Novosil), Zircon, Epin-Extra, Energen or Healthy Garden - this is beneficial for plants and harmless to beneficial insects both birds and your own liver.

6. You will need to add organic matter in the fall only to the beds, since it will accumulate under the bushes and trees over the summer. You won’t have to remove fallen leaves - it’s one less job, and mineral fertilizers can be applied in very small quantities and, moreover, once every three years, if you use the new “AVA” fertilizer. So they avoided another labor-intensive task - transporting mineral fertilizers to the site every year.

7. Spring planting can be made easier if in the winter, between times, you stick the seeds onto toilet paper using starch. In the spring, all that remains is to roll out the rolls over a moistened bed and sprinkle a layer of prepared soil on top - that’s all there is to sowing.

8. We age along with the garden, and therefore try to organize your flower beds in such a way that they do not require a lot of work from you, therefore, if you are no longer young, give up rocky and alpine hills, overly complex flower beds or overly whimsical flowers. Leave those that do not require constant care: astilbes, phlox, daisies, perennial bells and asters, hostas, lupins, daylilies, Siberian irises, peonies, lilies (best of all Asian hybrids), daffodils - this is the small assortment on which you can stop, and then it’s a matter of your taste to arrange them on the site so that they please the eye all summer.

You can generally limit yourself to a few conifers, ferns and a couple of bushes with decorative foliage. Of the annuals, it is also best to sow those that do not require growing seedlings: cornflowers, poppies, including eschscholzia, nemesia, matthiola, cosmos. Just sow them scattered in early spring on moist soil - and that’s it.

Don't forget Plyushkin

Collect eggshells in open plastic bags: let the egg white dry on the shell for a couple of days, then compact it and add the next portion. If you compact the shell right away, it will definitely stink, regardless of whether the eggs were raw or boiled. The shells can be ground in a coffee grinder and used to deoxidize the soil, or they can be burned in the stove along with firewood - it will enrich the ash with potassium and calcium.

Also burn boiled bones from the soup with wood - they will enrich the ash with phosphorus.

Dry the potato peelings by spreading them in a thin layer on newspaper near the radiator. When dry, place in an open plastic bag. If necessary, take it to the site and burn it in the stove. Potato peelings, firstly, will enrich the ash with a large number of microelements, and secondly, they will burn the ash in the chimneys. The ash should be allowed to cool completely in the ash pan and only then pour it into a metal container and cover with a lid so that it does not get damp. In spring and summer, use ash to deoxidize the soil. But do not immediately add large doses of ash for this, since ash is mostly alkali, and it immediately dissolves in water, sharply increasing the pH of the soil, which can exceed the pH mark of 6.5 and block phosphorus in the soil. In addition to calcium, ash also contains phosphorus, potassium and other mineral elements necessary for plants, but all of them, unlike calcium, will slowly dissolve in water. Therefore, ash should be added to the soil in advance or an extract should be prepared from it: pour 1 liter of hot water into a glass of ash and let it brew overnight, then add another 9 liters of cold water, stir and feed the plants at the rate of 1 liter of solution per square meter of planting.

Don't forget to collect any spilled tea and coffee as well. Spread each portion on a flat plate in a thin layer, place the plate under the radiator, when the layer of tea or coffee dries, pour into an open bag. If you pour new portions of wet tea onto a plate, the tea or coffee dust will become moldy. It's not scary, but it's unpleasant. Use dry tea dust when sowing carrots or other small seeds by mixing 1 teaspoon of seeds with a glass of dust and sowing the mixture on one square meter of soil surface. Then you will not have thickened crops; In addition, it has been noticed that carrots grow much better when sown with tea or coffee dust. If, before sowing, the grooves prepared for seeds are “salted” with the dust fraction of the “AVA” fertilizer, then no mineral fertilizing will be required.

Collect and dry citrus peels on a radiator, using them against moths or making an infusion against leaf-eating insects. You can prepare a decoction for future use: soak 1 kg of crusts, pass through a meat grinder, pour in 3 liters of hot water, close and leave in a dark place for 5 days, then strain, squeeze, pour into bottles and store in a dark place. As needed, take 100 ml of solution per 10 liters of water and spray the plants against pests.

To control pests, they also use an infusion of onion and garlic peels, which should also be collected in a separate bag in winter. To prepare the infusion, pour half a bucket of onion peel into a bucket of hot water, cover with a lid, leave for two days, then filter, squeeze and spray the plants.

Cardboard, paper and black and white newspapers can also be used on the site: crumpled newspapers and paper serve as excellent biofuel in greenhouses - trenches are filled with them, a layer of fertile soil of at least 25 cm is added on top of the newspapers and covered with film on top. The soil quickly warms up, and the newspapers begin to overheat, releasing heat within 2–3 months. Crumpled or torn into small shreds newspapers can be used to mulch the soil in greenhouses, which allows you to reduce watering by almost half. You can plant cabbage seedlings on newspapers folded in 2-3 layers and taped together into strips by making the necessary holes in the newspapers. It is good to cover the soil under bushes and trees with pieces of cardboard in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, or directly over the snow if you need to delay flowering. At the moment the buds open and the green cone of leaves extends, the first pests emerge from the ground; the cardboard will interfere with this, and the pests will die. At the moment of flowering, beneficial insects must be released into the wild, so the cardboard from under the plantings must be removed at this time, dried and stored until next year. When it becomes completely dilapidated, you can simply burn it or lay it at the base of a bed for zucchini or pumpkins. By rotting, the cardboard will provide heat to the root system of plants, which is not enough in the soil for pumpkin crops in the spring; For the same purposes, you can use old (but not synthetic) clothing.

Do not throw away champagne bottles during the year: you can use them to enclose flower beds by simply sticking their necks into the ground, or laying them on cement mortar. Dark glass heats up well during the day and gives off heat during the cold night, protecting heat-loving flowers such as lilies, gladioli, and dahlias from the cold.

Metal cans and plastic bottles can be used for drainage. You can also grow seedlings in plastic bottles. And, as mentioned above, they can be used to produce drip irrigation while simultaneously feeding plants. The resulting plugs from the soil will not allow the solution to quickly flow out of the bottle; the solution will slowly seep directly into the root zone, constantly supplying the plants with moisture and nutrition. A two-liter bottle is enough for four tomato bushes for 10 days, and for cucumbers for a week in hot weather. The easiest way to prepare a nutrient solution: 4 teaspoons of Uniflor-bud fertilizer per 10 liters of water, if, of course, the soil was filled with organic and mineral fertilizers before planting. If you constantly go to the site, then you can take away all the kitchen waste, putting it on a compost heap, but they must be sprinkled on top with peat or soil to prevent rats and flies.

In general, we must remember that everything begins with soil microorganisms and everything ends with them, and therefore we must return to the earth what we took from it with the harvest or as a result of our other activities. Return organic matter to soil microorganisms and earthworms in the form of leaves, stems of fruit-bearing plants, kitchen waste, paper, cardboard. They will gratefully process everything and enrich the soil with the products of their vital activity - humus - the main source of plant life on earth. Nowadays, special organic substrates have even been created containing microorganisms that contribute to the rapid development of soil microflora. With their help, compost, sawdust, manure, peat and simply the green mass of weeds are quickly (within one summer) overheated. One of these substrates is called “Revival”, the other “EM-1” (Effective Microorganisms), a series of bioenzyme products “Ecological Set for Summer Residents” (“Micropan”) has also appeared, there is also a mineral fertilizer “AVA”, which stimulates the growth of soil microorganisms and earthworms.

You will have to switch to natural farming, that is, use all the hidden resources in your garden. For organic fertilizers, use an infusion of fermented weeds; for nitrogen fertilizing, use urine diluted with water 1:10; to improve the structure of the soil and accumulate organic matter in it, bury dry hay, leaves or the green part of weeded weeds in trenches. Also bring all urban kitchen waste to the dacha and bury it in trenches under the beds. In the fall, you can feed the plants with feces from the toilet, diluted 1:10 with water, unless, of course, your family members have worms.

Use ash as mineral fertilizers, and old plaster, unused cement and ash as deoxidizers. To improve the soil, sow annual lupine in each bed for at least one season, and without letting it bloom, dig it up along with the roots and leaves. After harvesting, immediately sow the beds with white mustard or winter rye. They will significantly improve the health of the soil and increase its fertility.

Use an infusion of pine needles against pests.

There is no bad weather

In order for your plants to always be healthy, you need to know what happens to them in this or that weather, and be able to provide the plants with the necessary support. With a long-term (10-14 days) cold spell, the roots stop absorbing phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), the plants begin to experience phosphorus and potassium starvation, and they need to be fed with these elements. It is useless to feed at the roots - it is still not absorbed, which means that you need to give foliar feeding. It should be recalled here that the concentration of a solution of mineral fertilizers for foliar feeding should be 5-10 times less than for root feeding in order to avoid burns and death of leaves. In addition, in different plants, the roots stop absorbing P and K at different temperatures. So for cold-resistant crops - this is a temperature below 10 °C, for potatoes, beets, onions, peas, cauliflower - below 12-15 °C, for cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and watermelons - below 16 °C, and for tomatoes, peppers , eggplants – below 18 °C.

Phosphorus deficiency first affects older or lower leaves - they take on a reddish or purple hue, especially on the underside of the leaf. Since P is involved in the formation of ovaries, its deficiency often leads to poor fruit set and premature fruit fall. To prevent this, it is necessary to spray the plants additionally with boron (2 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water), at the moment of formation of buds and then ovaries. Beets and celery also always need additional boron fertilizing at the moment of root crop setting.

With a lack of potassium, the leaves curl slightly inward, and a brown border appears along the edges (marginal burn), the root system stops developing. If you use potassium chloride for feeding, then remember that beets, radishes, turnips, rutabaga, radishes, cabbage, and onions tolerate chlorine. However, others, especially carrots and parsley, do not tolerate chlorine. During cold spells, plants should not be given nitrogen (N). For better adaptation of plants to unfavorable weather (sudden cold snap, sudden change in temperature, sudden change in sunny and rainy weather), plants should be fed with K and Ca. Calcium (Ca) is found in lime, chalk, dolomite, cement, alabaster, ash, and eggshells. Since plants require support immediately, it is better to apply Ca in the form of an aqueous solution at the root of each plant, rather than dryly. It must be remembered that carrots, parsley, turnips and radishes do not tolerate lime; carrots, when limed, form three- to five-fingered root crops, and the roots of the rest become coarser, so it is better to use other soil deoxidizers.

With frequent sharp fluctuations in sunny and cloudy weather, plants become deficient in magnesium (Mg). It is contained in the same way as Ca in dolomite flour, therefore, if you add dolomite for calcium supplementation, then you do not need to add magnesium, and if you add other deoxidizers, then you need to add additional magnesium. To do this, just dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts (sold in pharmacies) in a bucket of water and use this volume to water a five-meter bed. During prolonged cloudy weather, it is better not to feed plants, since fertilizing is poorly absorbed due to weak photosynthesis (the process of carbon nutrition of plants due to solar energy). In sunny weather, this process is active, and plants make full use of all nutrient soil solutions; at this time it is best to feed the roots, and it is more effective to do this during watering. Any fertilizing, both root and foliar, should be done in the afternoon. Foliar feeding requires 3-4 hours of non-raining weather to give the leaves time to use the nutrients before they are washed away by rain. During prolonged rainy weather, N and K are washed out from the upper nutrient layer to lower layers, and plants begin to experience their deficiency.

Nitrogen (N) promotes leaf growth. With nitrogen starvation, the leaves lighten and young leaves become smaller. In this case, the plants need to be given nitrogen and potassium fertilizing (two thirds N, one third K). N and K are easily dissolved in water; in rainy weather, they are simply applied dry between the rows and loosened into the soil. If you don't cover nitrogen fertilizers with soil, they will simply escape into the air in the form of ammonia. After August 15, fertilizing is stopped, and only shrubs and trees are given phosphorus-potassium fertilizing for better lignification of the bark on the current year's growth. During rainy weather in waterlogged soils, plants lack oxygen and begin to suffocate. To avoid this, it is necessary to deepen the passages between the beds with the bayonet of a shovel in order to drain excess water from the beds. And one more thing: if the month before harvesting is rainy, then there is too much water in the cell juice of vegetables and fruits, they will not be stored well, so it is more advisable to process the crop.

Work calendar for the whole year

1. To prevent branches from breaking off under the weight of snow, shake it off the trees.

2. Trample the snow under young trees, if you have not tied them with fiberglass, so that in the loose snow mice cannot make passages to the trunks and gnaw the bark. You don't have to trample on old trees.

3. Rake snow on strawberries and raspberries, as well as on ornamental plantings that freeze above the snow cover, so that during thaws the berries and ornamental shrubs do not become bare and do not freeze during subsequent frosts.

4. Retain snow by raking snow into ridges across the slope.

5. Place bird food out of reach of mice. It is convenient to pour it into a bucket suspended under a canopy. Tie strips of unsalted lard onto the trunks of fruit trees for tits. They will get used to visiting your feeders, and at the same time they will clean the trees of pests hibernating in the forks of the branches.

6. Collect eggshells, onion and garlic peels, citrus peels, potato peelings, waste paper, and wood ash at home.

7. Read literature on gardening, take notes, attend lectures; draw up a plan for planting vegetables for this year, a plan for replanting and new plantings of trees and shrubs, and a general plan of the site.

8. Buy film for greenhouses, better durable, for example, “Svetlitsa” from the St. Petersburg company “Shar”, complete mineral fertilizers, such as “Kemira” made in Finland, “AVA”, “Uniflor”, created by St. Petersburg scientists, organic fertilizers created based on humates, for example “Fitosporin”, “Gumi”, “Barrel and four buckets”, “Lignohumate”. There are also good buoy fertilizers. Buy garden tools and mechanisms from reliable companies, in particular from Usadba-Moto. You will also need deoxidizers, so it is better to use dolomite than lime. Because lime dissolves in water and is carried by it to the lower layers, and dolomite dissolves only in acidic soils. As soon as it deoxidizes the soil to neutral, it stops dissolving and lies in the soil until it acidifies again, since it does not dissolve in water and is not washed out of the arable layer of soil.

Protective equipment will also be required. I do not recommend using chemical poisons on your property, so as not to disturb the ecological balance of nature and not ruin your own health. It is better to use biological agents. Modern drugs “Fitosporin” and “Zircon” cope well with all fungal and bacterial diseases. To support the immune system of plants, herbal preparations “Silk” (“Novosil”), “Epin-Extra”, and the homeopathic preparation “Healthy Garden” should be used. There are modern systemic biological preparations against pests: Fitoverm, Iskra-bio, Akarin (Agravertin).

Folk weather signs in January

– If January is cold, then June will be dry and hot: don’t wait for mushrooms until autumn.

– If there are frequent snowfalls and blizzards in January, there will be frequent rains in July.

– In January there are a lot of frequent and long icicles, the harvest will be good.

Weather for tomorrow

– If white circles, pillars or false suns are visible around the setting sun, frost will last for several days.

– If there is a dim ring around the moon, there will be frost.

– If the moon shines brightly or the clear sky is strewn with bright stars, there will be frost.

– If the sun sets in a sparkling red fog, it will be frosty.

– If the trees are shrouded in fluffy frost, there will be frost.

- If the sparrows sit quietly, there will be snowfall, and if they chirp, there will be a thaw. Crows and jackdaws hover in the air - in front of snow, sit on the snow - for thaw, sit on the tops of trees - for frost, on the lower branches - for clear weather.

– If the wood burns in the stove with a crackling sound, and the flame is red, there will be frost, and if it hisses, smokes, and the flame is white, wait for a thaw.

– If the clouds go against the wind, there will be snowfall.

1. Attach strips of foil to the branches of fruit trees and bushes - this will scare away birds pecking at the fruit buds. Birds are instinctively wary of snares, so they never land on the net. You can use ready-made nets and throw them on trees.

2. Check dahlia tubers and gladioli bulbs. If rot appears, wash the tubers and bulbs in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, cut out the rotten parts with a knife, cover the wounds with a crushed tablet of any anti-infection drug, for example levomythecin, streptocide, sulfadimezine.

3. Check the onions and garlic: plant those bulbs that have started to grow tightly together in seedling boxes with a small layer of soil and place the boxes on the window - after two weeks, harvest a small harvest of green onions, and later garlic.

4. At the end of the month, you can sow peppers and eggplants for seedlings.

5. You can start sowing seeds, of course, not on a garden bed, but on paper. Toilet paper or napkins are most suitable for this; you can also use other paper. Flour paste is applied to strips of paper and seeds are glued, spreading them out with tweezers or a wooden stick. The paper with the seeds glued is dried, the name of the crop is written on it, rolled up and stored in a dry place. When the time for sowing comes, the roll is rolled out on the garden bed and sprinkled with a 1 cm layer of soil. In this way you can plant parsley, carrots, lettuce (according to the 5x5 cm pattern), spring onions, leeks (according to the 4 x 4 cm pattern), dill , watercress, cilantro, cumin, marjoram, tarragon, mint, lemon balm (according to the 2x2 cm pattern), radishes (according to the 4x4 cm pattern), turnips, celery, parsnips (according to the 7x7 cm pattern).

6. Mice may appear in the garden house. Mice usually run along walls, so scatter blackroot seeds or burdock on the floor along their passages. Clinging to the skin, they cause nervous stress in rodents, and soon the mice will leave your home. The smell of anise will also repel rodents; It is enough to spray the mouse passages with ammonia-anise drops. You can prepare fertilizer: take one part cement and two parts flour to one part sugar, mix and add a few drops of vegetable oil, the smell of which will attract mice. This treat will cement the intestines and the rodents will die of starvation. If such mice are eaten by owls or cats, the latter will remain alive. If the mice were poisoned, owls and cats will also die. “Zookoumarin” and similar drugs are useless for poisoning, since it causes sharp pain in the intestines and rodents notify their relatives of the danger, and again: poisoned animals are dangerous for birds and cats.

But the new generation drugs - “Klerat”, “Storm”, “Geldan”, “Zernotsin”, “Foret” kill mice only a few days after they have eaten them, so the animals do not associate them with danger and do not pass them on to their relatives a signal of trouble threatening them.

7. Check your seed supply and replenish it if necessary. There is no need to buy seeds from random people. They are expensive nowadays, and it is not at all necessary to sow your six acres with unknown things. Surely there are companies in your region whose quality of seeds you trust. In the North-West, these are, for example, the companies “Sortsemovoshch”, “Hardwick”, “Biotechnika”, “Tellura”. In Moscow there are companies “Sedek”, “Semko”, “Gavrish”, “Among the Flowers”.

Folk weather signs in February

– If the first three days of February are fine, then expect a fine spring.

– The wind is blowing, but there is no frost - a snowstorm.

– If there is a dim circle around the moon, then there will be frost.

Weather for tomorrow

- The wind is blowing, but there is no frost - there will be a snowstorm.

- The fire in the stump is red - for frost, white - for thaw.

- Smoke from the chimney spreads along the ground - there will be snowfall.

– If crows sit on the tops of trees, there will be frost, if on the lower branches there will be wind, and if on the ground there will be thaw.

– If dogs are lying in the snow, there will be a blizzard.

First half of the month

1. Perform sanitary pruning of trees and bushes, except raspberries, cutting out broken branches that thicken the crown; cut out branches growing inside the crown, and tops - vertically growing branches on apple and pear trees. At the same time, collect carrion and leaves from trees, dried berries and remaining leaves from bushes and be sure to burn them - pests hibernate in them. The blackened, deformed ends of the branches of currants and gooseberries should be cut off and burned - they have powdery mildew.

2. If the trim on the trees is dark in color, then remove it, otherwise during the day in sunny weather it will get very hot; the nights are still cold, and sharp fluctuations in temperature from day to night are detrimental to the cambium of fruit trees. Bark diseases generally begin with spring sunburn. They usually appear as pinkish spots on the bark. To avoid this, you need to whiten the trunks not in the spring, but in the fall, so that they are protected from the bright March sun reflected by the snow. If the whitewash has faded by spring, touch it up as early as possible, at a temperature not lower than 6 °C. Instead of whitewashing, you can tie the trunks with strips of torn sugar sacks. They are made of fiberglass and are too tough for mice.

3. On the site, you can sow winter (instead of autumn) early vegetables and herbs, if vegetable beds have been prepared for sowing in the fall. Sweep the snow from the beds, water the furrows prepared in the fall well with hot water, lightly sprinkle with wood ash (except for carrot crops) or the powder fraction of the AVA fertilizer and sow dry seeds of carrots, turnips, radishes, lettuce, spinach, parsley, dill, onions, sorrel, white cabbage. Fill the furrows with seeds on top with a layer of dry soil or peat harvested indoors in the fall, 2–3 cm high, and then throw snow on top.

4. Rake snow onto strawberries and raspberries.

5. Sow dry seeds of peppers, tall tomatoes, eggplants, physalis in moist soil prepared for seedlings at home and sprinkle them with a layer of soil 2 cm thick (and pepper seeds - 3-4 cm), compact the soil with a spoon, cover with film and place on the radiator. The most suitable time in the North-Western and Central regions is March 8-10. Make sure the soil temperature is 25–30 °C. Do not water until shoots appear. As soon as the first light loops of seedlings appear, without waiting for the rest, place the boxes with seedlings on the window and keep them there for 10 days at a temperature of 10–12 °C at night, +14–16 °C during the day, otherwise the seedlings will stretch out greatly. In the future, open the window, maintaining the temperature: at night + 12–14 °C, during the day + 18–20 °C.

If you are not sure about the quality of the seeds, before sowing, warm them up for 20 minutes at a temperature of +53 °C - the pathogens located on the surface of the seeds will die. Then wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place on a saucer in the freezer of the refrigerator for a day.

6. Prepare early potatoes intended for seedlings for vernalization. To do this, select 5–6 large, beautiful tubers (if you are growing potatoes from sprouts) or 25–30 (if you are planting tubers), put them in hot water (+50 °C). After 20 minutes, when the water has cooled slightly, add a little potassium permanganate (the solution should be bright pink) and keep the potatoes in this solution for another 20 minutes. Drain the solution and rinse the tubers with water. When the water has drained, place the tubers in the light on a windowsill or on a cabinet (you can put the tubers in three- or five-liter jars and place them on the windowsill for 20-30 days).

Your potato planting material can only be used as long as it produces good yields. And then you need to either improve it by growing your own seedlings from sprouts, or replace the planting material, which must be purchased not on the market, but again from seed potato producers or through reliable intermediary companies. In the North-West, this is a potato farm in Belogorka, at the Agrarian University or at the Pushkin VIR base.

Second half of the month

1. Drain excess water from the area through the grooves, especially from the beds occupied by strawberries and raspberries.

2. Collect thick, swollen, round-shaped buds on black currants and burn them - they contain bud mite larvae.

3. Using a knife, scrape scale insects from the branches (in the form of beige commas, they are clearly visible on the brown bark of the branches) onto the litter and destroy them.

4. Cover the soil under the bushes with dark film or cardboard to prevent the first pests from leaving their wintering areas.

5. If the trees have light-colored or coniferous trim, remove it. Damaged bark on trees should be sanded with a rough mitten, frost holes and wounds should be cleaned with a knife until healthy wood is removed, then washed with a solution of raspberry-colored potassium permanganate, or even better with brilliant green, and painted over with oil paint. Whiten the trunks at an air temperature of at least +6 °C, if the autumn whitening has faded. It is best to use water-based paint for exterior use.

6. Before the start of sap flow, it is necessary to carry out the first spraying of the garden against pests. A concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer is best suited for this. The cheapest and easiest way is to use urea (700 g of urea per 10 liters of water); in extreme cases, you can use 1 kg of table salt per 10 liters of water. Strain the solution and spray it over the entire garden, starting from the tips of the branches on which the aphid eggs are laid, then along the branches and forks in which the pests overwinter, all the trunks and the soil under the plantings, in the upper part of which the pests also overwinter under the foliage. A spray solution can also be prepared from ash. To do this, pour 4 cups of ash into 1 liter of boiling water and after a day add 9 liters of cold water to the solution, then strain the solution and spray the garden.

7. If there is still snow on the vegetable beds, sprinkle it with ash or peat; cover the beds with transparent old film and press the film with stones or poles so that it does not blow away with the wind. Under the film, the blackened snow will quickly melt and weeds will sprout. As soon as their shoots appear, remove the film, loosen the soil with a rake and leave for a day without the film - the weed seedlings will die. After a day, lay the film on the beds and repeat everything again. This way, you will get rid of weeds in vegetable beds for the entire first half of summer, when they are especially harmful to young vegetable seedlings. Digging a bed freed from weeds can only be done to a depth of 5–7 cm, otherwise you will remove weed seeds from the deeper layers and they will sprout again.

8. At home, sow seeds of marigolds and annual asters for seedlings.

9. As soon as the cotyledon leaves of the seedlings of tomatoes, eggplants and peppers open, the plants will switch to their own root nutrition from the soil, since the supply of nutrients in the seed has run out. This is one of the most critical moments in the development of a plant, so it must be provided with nitrogen and phosphorus (phosphorus is especially important at this moment for tomatoes). You can water the plant with a weak solution of azofoska. But it is better to use a complete mineral fertilizer, which also contains microelements, in particular “Uniflorom-rost”. You can feed with infusion of the powder fraction of the “AVA” fertilizer or with liquid fertilizers “Ideal”, “Florist”. From this moment on, plants need good lighting, since at their growth point a program for their further development is laid, and in insufficient light they will lay the rudiments of leaves instead of laying the rudiments of flowers in a timely manner.

If you did not have time to sow tomatoes, this can be done as early as the twentieth of March. At the same time, low-growing early-fruiting varieties and hybrids of tomatoes are sown. You can also still have time to grow good seedlings of ultra-early ripening hybrids and pepper varieties.

Folk weather signs in March

– Frequent fogs in March foreshadow a rainy summer.

– Dry March means fertility, rainy March means crop failure.

– If during March snowstorms the snow on the fields falls unevenly, wavy, and in mounds, then garden vegetables and spring grains will grow well.

– Water has appeared on the ice of rivers and lakes – it will soon be warm.

Weather for tomorrow

– Clouds float quickly and high - good weather.

- The crane flew to the warmth. Finches - to the cold.

– The rooks arrived and started repairing the nests - in a couple of days the weather will be warm, if the nests are not repaired - the cold will last for several days.

- The crow hides its beak under its wing - wait for frost.

First half of the month

1. Drain excess water from the area through the grooves, especially from strawberries and raspberries, if you did not do this at the end of March.

2. Spray the garden with a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer, if you have not already done so, to destroy clutches of pests overwintering on the trunks. It is at this time that their chitinous cover weakens so that they can emerge from it, and therefore the concentrated mineral fertilizer will penetrate through it and destroy the pest living inside. It is imperative to spray before the sap begins to flow, otherwise you will cause a kidney burn.

3. Feed sorrel, rhubarb, strawberries, perennial onions, parsley left in the soil in the fall, and perennial flowers with nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). If there are no nitrogen fertilizers, dilute 1 liter of urine in 10 liters of water and water the plants. You cannot fertilize bulbous flowers (daffodils, lilies, tulips) and irises with nitrogen or manure: they will freeze and the bulbs will rot.

4. Remove the coverings from bulbous flowers and irises, loosen the peonies, spray the red sprouts of peonies with 1% Bordeaux mixture (1 teaspoon per 500–800 g of water) and place 1 cup of ash under the peonies.

5. Remove the spruce branches from the roses, leaving the boxes on them.

6. If you want to get early greens and strawberries, place arched film covers over them. Arches can be bent from wire or made from willow twigs by removing the bark from them - then they will serve you for many years.

7. Continue to grow and destroy weeds in your vegetable beds.

8. At home, place vernalized early potatoes in a box for germination in one layer, spray with water, cover with three to four layers of newspapers, place a second layer of potatoes on top, spray and cover again with three to four layers of newspapers. Lay the third layer in the same way and, closing the box, place it in a warm place.

Prepare the main potatoes for planting in the same way as you prepared the early ones.

9. Hang a fabric bag with packets of pumpkin seeds (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, lagenaria, pumpkin, watermelon, melon) on the radiator to warm up. To avoid barren flowers, they must be heated before planting for 20–30 days at a temperature of +40 °C, or 2–3 hours at a temperature of +60 °C (can be done in a thermos); In addition, you cannot sow fresh seeds (from last year), otherwise there will also be a lot of barren flowers. But this applies only to varieties. Hybrids do not require warming, and they can be sown with fresh seeds, since they have predominantly female flowers.

10. If nightshade seedlings (peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, physalis) have the first two leaves, you need to fertilize:

Dilute 1 teaspoon of vegetable mixture or nitroammophoska in 3 liters of water and water the seedlings. In the future, fertilizing with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers should be done regularly along with watering. For fertilizing, it is very convenient to use liquid fertilizers “Uniflor-Rost”, “Ideal” or others containing both the main nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and microelements. If there are no mineral fertilizers, then scald half a glass of wood ash with boiling water, after a day add 5 liters of water and water the seedlings once a week. You can use the mineral fertilizer “AVA”, which contains the nutrients necessary for plants. It is better to use AVA in powder form. Pour 1 teaspoon of fertilizer into 3 liters of water, let it sit for three days and pour a tablespoon of solution under each plant weekly. The fertilizer is slightly soluble in water, so a sediment remains at the bottom, which must be refilled with water and used. But this fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, so you should add another 1 teaspoon of any nitrogen fertilizer to the solution.

11. Spray all seedlings weekly with a warm (+25 °C) light pink solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of boric acid on the tip of a knife per 3 liters of water, alternating with spraying tomatoes with a 0.1% solution (1 teaspoon per 5–8 l water) copper sulfate, which will make tomatoes resistant to late blight.

12. Prepare the main potatoes for vernalization in the same way as you prepared early potatoes for seedlings

13. Plant the first batch of radishes, lettuce, dill, spinach, watercress on top of the compost heap, pouring a 5–7 cm thick layer of soil on top, and cover the bed with lutrasil.

14. Pick (transplant) tomato and eggplant seedlings. When transplanting one third, pinch off the root for better branching. Using a pencil, make a funnel in the soil to such a depth that the rest of the root sinks into it without bending, and part of the stem fits up to the cotyledon leaves. Compact the soil around the plant and water it carefully. Pepper does not tolerate transplantation well; it is better to immediately plant it in pots with seeds. Any seedlings can be planted in film diapers according to the method proposed by the famous St. Petersburg gardener V.N. Kovalevoy: place a tablespoon of damp soil on pieces of film measuring 12 x 20 cm, carefully place the seedling on the ground (without shortening its root, so that the cotyledon leaves are located above the edge of the film). Sprinkle another 1 tablespoon of soil on top and roll it into a little bag, secure with an elastic band so it doesn’t unravel. Place all the bags next to each other in a shallow tray (for example, a herring tin). The root system of such seedlings will grow downwards and will not be damaged during transplantation. When the seedlings have 4-5 true leaves, unroll the film and add another spoonful of soil.

Second half of the month

1. During the period of bud break (along the green cone), spray the bushes with a soap-ash solution against the first pests that lay eggs or larvae in the buds. To do this, you can use a solution of mineral fertilizer, namely, dissolve 70 g of urea or chlorine-free potassium fertilizer in 10 liters of water, strain and spray the entire berry or strawberry bush. You can also use ash. To do this, pour boiling water over 1 glass of ash, leave for 24 hours, add 10 liters of water, grate 40 g of laundry soap on a coarse grater and treat the bushes with this solution. You can also use an infusion of any pine needles: pour 2.5 kg of pine needles into 10 liters of water, cover, leave for a week, then strain, add another 20 liters of water. You can use an infusion of onion peels or citrus peels. If currants or gooseberries suffered from powdery mildew last year, treat the young leaves with Zircon or generously pour Fitosporin solution on top.

2. Cut out old and diseased strawberry leaves and burn them. Water the bushes with hot water (+60–70 °C) with potassium permanganate (bright pink), but without boric acid (strawberries do not tolerate boron).

3. If vegetable beds have not been prepared since the fall, make them. Vegetables love loose, fertile soil. In dense clay soils, for each square meter you need to add 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of rotted manure, compost (you can use rotted sawdust or leaves, low peat), 1 half-liter jar of ash. Dig everything well together with the soil to a depth of 10–12 cm. Select the rhizomes of perennial weeds, clear the soil, compact it with a board, water it and immediately sow the vegetables, preventing the weeds from sprouting. If the beds are ready and free of weeds, then loosen and then compact the soil with a board, make furrows, sprinkle the beds lightly with wood ash and sow dry seeds of early vegetables and herbs. Before planting, small seeds should be mixed with dry tea: 1 g of seeds per 1 glass of dry tea. You can use the dust fraction of the “AVA” fertilizer: for this, 1 teaspoon without top of the fertilizer and 1 spoon of seeds should be mixed with half a glass of fine sand or tea dust and sown on one meter of bed. In this case, you will not need any more mineral fertilizers throughout the summer. To protect crops from psyllids, carrots must be covered with lutra-sil and removed only when weeding and thinning, and watering should be done directly according to the material.

4. Do preventive spraying on the unfolding leaves of all plants in the garden and greenhouse with a mixture of Zircon, Epin-extra and Cytovit. You need to take 2 drops of each drug per 1 liter of water. “Zircon” will protect plants from diseases, “Epin-extra” will help survive drought, frost, sudden changes in temperature day and night, and prolonged cold snaps. And “Tsitovit” will provide plants with quick and effective foliar feeding. If you don’t have Cytovit, use Uniflor-rost (4 drops per 1 liter of water). You can use “Ideal” or “Florist”.

5. Cover the greenhouses with film. Having dug trenches in the greenhouses with the depth and width of a spade, add biofuel into them and pour the soil dug out from the trenches on top, without turning it over, if possible. Compact the soil with a board, water and cover with old film to warm the soil faster. Dry hay, half-rotted compost, or crumpled black and white newspapers can be used as biofuel (modern printing does not use harmful substances). It is undesirable to apply fresh manure, because it will cause rapid growth of greenery to the detriment of fruiting, and in cucumbers it can provoke root rot.

After ten days, when the soil has warmed up properly, add mineral and organic fertilizers to the topmost layer, then lightly dig to a depth of no more than 5–7 cm, compact with a board, water and sow the seeds of cucumbers, watermelons, and melons. Cucumbers can be sown in an insulated bed in a greenhouse as early as the first of May, even if there is still snow on the site. It just needs to be cleared away from the walls of the greenhouses. Cover the tops of the crops with jars so that the seedlings are not damaged by slugs, and additionally cover the top with lutrasil and do not remove until the spring frosts have passed. Under such shelter, seedlings in greenhouses can withstand frosts down to -5 °C.

6. Sow cauliflower seedlings. This can be done right in the greenhouse by hanging the seedling box on rope loops at a height of at least 1 meter above the soil surface. Cover the seedling box with lutrasil. You can also sow other crops for seedlings. The fact is that the frost goes through the soil and will not affect the seedlings covered with lutrasil in a hanging box.

7. Untie the raspberries without straightening them, cut off the dry tops. Cut to the base and burn the shoots with thickenings (galls) - they contain stem gall midge larvae. If old shoots have not been cut out since the fall, they must be cut out without leaving stumps. Feed the bushes with liquid manure or feces: add 10 liters of water to 1 liter of slurry (if bird droppings are used, then 20 liters of water).

8. If you haven’t dug up the soil in the tree trunks since the fall, do it now. Place the shovel with its edge facing the trunk, otherwise you may cut the roots. Do not remove the leaves remaining on the ground, but rather dig them up with soil. The digging is done shallow, only 5–7 cm. It is even better not to dig the soil, but only loosen it. If the garden is tinned, then digging is not done.

9. Make transplants and new plantings of bushes and tree seedlings dug up in the fall.

10. Get vaccinated if necessary.

11. Sow early annual flowers (poppy, eschscholzia, cornflowers, cosmos, marigolds, iberis, forget-me-nots, matthiola) into the soil.

12. Sow coriander (cilantro) in greenhouses and among bulbous flowers as a remedy against mice.

13. Plant and feed irises, phlox, and chrysanthemums. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture (a teaspoon per 500–800 g of water) on roses, irises, phlox, and chrysanthemums.

14. Don't forget to shovel the compost, layering it with feces from the toilet if you haven't sowed radishes and greens on it.

15. At home, place dahlia tubers and gladioli bulbs in the light for vernalization.

16. Plant lagenaria and pumpkin seedlings. Pumpkin seeds must first be soaked for two to three days, and lagenaria seeds must be placed in a thermos with water heated to +45 °C for two to three hours.

17. Plant early potatoes for seedlings. If there is little planting material or you want to improve it, grow potato seedlings from sprouts. To do this, break out the sprouted sprouts and plant them in the ground, covering two-thirds of the length with soil. It is convenient to grow seedlings in milk cartons or plastic bottles with the top cut off. Make holes in the bottom of the container for ventilation, otherwise the soil will turn sour.

18. 20–25 days before planting potatoes, it is useful to treat the tubers with a Fitosporin solution. To do this, the “Fitosporin” plate or part of it must be diluted in water, which must be taken twice as much as the drug. This concentrated solution can last all summer. As needed, take a tablespoon of this concentrate and dilute it in 10 liters of water. The tubers should be immersed in liquid for half an hour, dried and kept in diffused light at a temperature of +16–18 °C. (This increases the potato's resistance to disease.)

19. Plant a second batch of radishes and herbs on the compost heap.

20. If moles live on your site, plant black beans along the perimeter of the beds at the very base and outside around the greenhouses at a distance of 12–15 cm from each other, but be sure to close the contour. Moles will leave the area outlined by the beans.

Folk weather signs in April

– If yellow primrose flowers bloom in the meadows, then the first warm days will come.

– If the birch tree has a lot of sap, then the summer will be rainy.

– If the birch tree opens before the alder, then the summer will be sunny, if on the contrary it will be cold and rainy.

– If a nightingale sings on bare trees, you can expect a fruit harvest.

– If the first thunder thunders with a north wind, it means a cold spring, with an east wind, it’s dry, with a west wind, it’s rainy, with a south wind, it’s warm.

– If lightning flashes in early spring, but thunder is not heard, you can expect a dry summer.

– Sap flow has begun in the maples – warm weather will come.

Weather for tomorrow

– In April, clear nights end in frost.

– Blue clouds in April mean warmth and rain.

– Hot during the day, cool at night - good weather.

– If the sun has set in the red iridescent dawn, then there will be a strong wind and possible rain.

– If it was cloudy in the morning, and by noon it cleared up and clouds appeared, then the weather will be sunny.

– If the sparrows sit ruffled and silent, then there will be rain or sleet.

– A day before the cold snap, the fish go deeper and stop biting.

First half of the month

1. During the budding period (before flowering), it is necessary to spray the bushes with any infusion (pine needles, citrus peels, onion peels, etc.) against leaf-sucking and leaf-gnawing pests. The most reliable and environmentally friendly preparations against pests are the new generation biological products “Iskra-bio”, “Fitoverm”, “Akarin” (“Agravertin”). Protecting the garden with the homeopathic medicine “Healthy Garden” is extremely effective. They should spray the garden every 3-

4 weeks, starting from the moment the leaves unfurl. Moreover, it is better to do the first spraying together with the homeopathic drug “Ecoberin”.

2. During mass flowering, remove the film from under the bushes - at this time beneficial insects emerge from the soil. During flowering, you should not spray the garden with pesticides.

3. To prevent ants from eating currant flowers, place rags soaked in kerosene under the bushes (ants are afraid of the smell of kerosene). It’s even better to use an anti-ant gel (“Absolute”, Two-component gel, “Clean House”, “Great Warrior”). Perhaps the most effective of these is the “Great Warrior” gel, and it can also be used against ants that have settled in the house. You need to drop a drop of gel on each stem (or 4-5 drops on the trunk of the apple tree) close to the soil. You can also place bowls made from a mixture of sugar and borax under the bushes. If ants have settled in greenhouses, they can be driven out by scattering millet on the soil. The preparations “Phenaxin” and “Muravin” will also help to destroy ants on the site - they should be used to pollinate detected ant ovipositions anywhere. If you have an anthill on your property, remove the top of it with a board and pour a bucket of water with an ampoule of Anteater or Muratsid diluted in it onto the pile.

4. Check black currant flowers for doubleness: pale lilac flowers with narrow fused petals - on bushes with mycoplasmosis. Such bushes must be dug up along with a lump of earth and burned; Black currants cannot be planted in this place for 3-4 years, or the soil must be completely replaced

5. During the period of bud opening (along the green cone), spray the trees with a soap-ash solution or any infusion against pests, as you did with bushes, or with a solution of mineral fertilizer (70 g per 10 l). You can use ready-made preparations “Iskra-bio”, “Fitoverm”, “Akarin” or “Healthy Garden” (it is effective when used systematically).

6. Plant the first batch of peas and beans without pre-soaking.

7. Plant young strawberries. The weevil that damages the buds emerges from the soil when its temperature rises to 8 degrees Celsius. He pierces the first isolated bud and lays an egg in it. To prevent this, you need to spray the strawberry plantings in early May, when the buds are still in a bunch. “Fitoverm” will protect your strawberries for three weeks, and during this time the weevil will move to raspberries. For prevention, water the strawberry plantings with Fitosporin. This will protect strawberries from gray rot disease. You can use Zircon.

8. Plant fruit trees and ornamental plants.

9. Plant lignified cuttings under the film for plant propagation and dig in the cuttings. Cut cuttings the size of a pencil straight from the top end, obliquely from the bottom, then stick them into a 10-centimeter layer of sand poured on top of the soil, obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees, with the top of the head facing north. Water well, place arcs, cover with two layers of old film. Water and spray regularly. For layering, dig the lower branches into the soil, being careful not to break off the branch from the mother bush by pressing them with a slingshot.

10. During cherry blossoms (mid-May), the first year of the cabbage butterfly, vegetable flies, and raspberry flies begins. Spray with one of the infusions against leaf-eating pests, or simply cover the vegetable beds with lutrasil.

11. Do not forget to water the sprouted vegetables - they do not tolerate dry soil at all.

12. Plant early potato seedlings in the ground. It must be completely covered with soil (no more than 1–2 cm above the crown), otherwise the seedlings will be damaged by night frosts.

13. From May 1 to May 10, plant dry cucumber seeds in greenhouses - just like root vegetables. Plant zucchini on the compost heap from May 10 to May 15. To do this, make bucket-sized depressions in it, pour half a bucket of good soil into them, pour in a hot solution of raspberry-colored potassium permanganate, and sprinkle with ash. Plant dry seeds. Cover the hole with a piece of film, pressing the edges with stones so that the film is not blown away by the wind. When the night frosts have passed (usually after June 10), the film can be removed. But if the whole pile was covered with old film, then cut holes to let the zucchini leaves out. You don’t have to remove the film all summer – it will retain heat and moisture.

14. Plant onion sets from May 10 to 15, after soaking them for a day in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. It is good to plant between rows of carrots.

15. Soak for two days and plant beet seeds from May 10 to 15. Earlier plantings of beets may be subject to frost. In this case, the plant will throw out the flower shoot and will not produce a root crop.

16. Sow radish, cauliflower, and rutabaga with dry seeds in the soil in the same way as early vegetables.

17. Re-sow radishes, dill, lettuce, spinach.

18. Remove the rose boxes. Feed them with manure or feces.

19. If you want to get early flowering of gladioli and dahlias, then plant them under cover not too deep, since the soil at greater depths is still cold. To prevent the bushes from falling under the weight of the flowers, they will have to be hilled up and tied to supports in the future.

20. If the raspberries stand up, tie them to a trellis, water them well and mulch (sprinkle) the soil under the bushes with moss, peat, and cut weeds.

21. Remove the film from strawberries, rhubarb, and perennial onions.

22. Early in the morning, collect and destroy cruciferous flea beetle (small bronze bugs) from vegetables and weevil (black-gray beetle with a proboscis) first from strawberries and then from raspberries. It is convenient to shake these beetles onto the litter - in the morning they are inactive. You can also spray the bushes with Fitoverm or Agravertin.

23. Pick off the flowers of the dandelion and coltsfoot. They should not be placed in compost: the seeds will ripen there, and together with the compost you will spread them throughout the area. It is best to use the flowers of these plants to obtain an infusion of weeds. To do this, fill any container with torn weeds to 3/4 of its volume and fill the weeds with water. Close the container and let the weeds ferment. As soon as the smell of the stable appears (after 10–15 days), dilute the infusion with water 1:5 and feed the plants. This is an excellent and completely free organic fertilizer. Plus, the smell of the weed infusion will repel pests from your garden.

24. At home, remove the main potatoes after vernalization in the light into boxes for germination. The boxes can be transported to the site and left in the house until planting.

25. Feed seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis, pumpkins and lagenaria. It is most convenient to use liquid mineral fertilizers “Uniflor Rost” or “Ideal” for fertilizing. 4-5 drops per 1 liter of water is enough. You can use “Fitosporin” or “Gumi”, since they are organo-mineral fertilizers.

Second half of the month

1. Cut out excess young shoots, as well as shoots with drooping tops of raspberries - they contain the raspberry fly larva. Destroy bushes with mosaic (two-color, yellow-green) leaves, sprouting (an abnormally large amount of young dwarf growth) and leaf curl - these are incurable viral diseases that are dangerous for healthy bushes. Raspberries cannot be planted in this place for 4–5 years, or the soil must be completely replaced. If last summer, for no apparent reason, your raspberries dried up right with the berries, be sure to thoroughly spray all the trunks, both old and young, with the Zircon preparation to destroy the causative agent of the disease purple spotting of the stems.

2. Hang catching belts made of corrugated paper or cardboard, soaked in a solution of chlorophos, karbofos or kerosene (10 g per 1 liter of water), on the trunks of apple trees to protect the crop from pests crawling from the ground. You can also make a skirt from plastic film by bending its top edge down.

3. Before opening the buds on the trees, spray them against pests with an infusion of dandelion or an infusion of fermented weeds. You can spray with a 0.7% (70 g per 7 liters of water) urea solution.

4. If raspberry swellings appear on the leaves of the red currant, this is a red gall aphid. The bushes should be well treated with a solution of drinking or soda ash (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) on the underside of the leaves or sprayed with any of the preparations “Fitoverm”, “Agravertin”, “Iskra-bio”.

5. When the leaves on the apple trees are unfolding, water the first abundantly (6 buckets for young apple trees, 12–15 buckets for mature ones), if the spring is dry. In addition, do a protective spray with a mixture of Zircon, Epin-extra and Cytovit (2 drops of each per 1 liter of water). Instead, you can spray the trees with homeopathic preparations “Ecoberin” and “Healthy Garden” (2 grains of each per 1 liter of water, adding 4 more drops of “Uniflora-growth” to the solution). In dry weather, water strawberries, raspberries, black currants, sea buckthorn, young vegetables and herbs: their roots are located at a depth of 10–15 cm and dry out quickly.

6. Prepare the potato field for planting, if you did not do so in the fall.

7. Potatoes are planted during bird cherry flowering (mid-late May), when the soil warms up to +10–12 °C. Under each sprouted tuber, add a handful of peat with ash (2 cups of ash per bucket of peat, mix everything). You can use the “AVA” fertilizer; for this, when planting, add a quarter teaspoon of fertilizer to each plant and nothing else.

8. Once again sow dill, radishes, lettuce, spinach, and turnips.

9. Soak for 2 days and plant sunflower seeds, peas and beans again.

10. Transplant the cauliflower seedlings from the greenhouse into the ground.

11. Transplant seedlings of peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes into the greenhouse in three steps (with a one-week interval) after the bird cherry blossoms. Cover the seedlings with lutrasil in case of late frosts.

12. Re-fill the early potatoes planted with seedlings with soil.

13. Sow seeds of late annual flowers (nasturtium, marigolds, calendula, ageratum, gypsophila, sweet peas) into the soil. Sweet peas have a hard shell, so before planting the seeds must be scarified, that is, the shell must be broken. To do this, roll the peas on the sandpaper with a gloved hand.

14. Transplant aster seedlings into the ground. Before planting, water the planting site well with the Fitosporin solution to avoid Fusarium wilting of the seedlings.

15. Water and ferment the weeds (wheatgrass, burdock, nettle, sow thistle, coltsfoot, dandelion, wild mint, wild sorrel, yarrow and others) in a barrel along with flowers and roots. If the barrel is metal, the inside must be painted with oil paint, otherwise it will quickly rust. Fill it with weeds to three-quarters of the volume and fill it with water to the same three-quarters; cover. After 2 weeks, you will receive an infusion of fermented weeds, which is not inferior in its nutritional qualities to manure. Feed plants with this infusion, diluting it with water 1:2, spray against pests, diluting it with water 1:10.

16. Do the first thinning and first feeding of vegetables. You can feed with urine (1:10) or infusion of fermented weeds (1:5). Do not feed with manure - the vegetables will rot.

17. Make foliar feeding of berry plants by spraying them with Uniflor-micro solution (2 teaspoons per bucket of water) or ash infusion (pour boiling water over 0.5 cups of ash, leave for 24 hours, add 10 liters of water).

18. If you plant cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse, then this should be done on May 15–20, additionally covering the plantings with lutrasil.

19. Periodically spray apple trees with pine extract, infusion of weeds, or pine needles to disorient pests.

20. Night frosts are possible in May. To prevent damage to the plantings at 3–4 am, you need to spray all the plants with cold water or burn smoke piles. Usually the evening before frost is cold, quiet, clear, and starry. To prevent flowers and ovaries from falling off due to frost, spray the plant on the buds and flowers with Ovary or Bud preparations.

Folk weather signs in May

– May is cold – a grain-bearing year.

– Birch turns green 5–6 days before the average daily temperature passes through +10 °C.

– If the birch tree opens its leaves before the alder, maple and poplar, then the summer will be sunny and dry, but if on the contrary, then it will be rainy and cold.

End of free trial.

Galina Kizima

What and when to plant, protect, fertilize

Work calendar for the whole year

What, when and how to do in the garden

The calendar, addressed to amateur gardeners, lists by month the main work that needs to be done in the garden, vegetable garden, and flower garden throughout the year. But the weather, as you know, is a capricious lady, and for example, the onset of spring may shift two weeks earlier or later relative to the calendar date, so the deadlines for completing these works are indicated approximately. It is also important to take into account the difference in the timing of plant development in the south and north. Thus, the beginning of sap flow in plants in the south occurs on average a month and a half earlier than in the north, so you should not literally follow the calendar; it is much more important to carefully monitor the condition of the plants in your area and, taking into account local weather conditions, carry out the work recommended in the calendar on time.

Notice the day when coltsfoot flowers bloom in your area. In 15–17 days, buds will begin to bloom on birch, mountain ash and currants. 28 days after the coltsfoot begins to bloom, the bird cherry will bloom, and a week later the gooseberry will bloom. 5 days after this, black currants bloom, followed a couple of days later by cherries and plums. The flowering of apple trees of summer varieties will be delayed for another 3 days, and only after that, after 3–4 days, the strawberries will begin to bloom, and literally the next day the lilac will bloom. Red rowan will bloom another 2 days later, and from this point on the recurrent night frosts usually stop. True, for the North-West this law may be violated and frosts may occur even in the twentieth of June. Raspberries are the last to bloom - 12–13 days after red rowan.

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima

A brief description of how to use the lunar calendar

Using this calendar is simple and convenient. Choose the appropriate time for sowing or planting a particular plant in your region. Look under the given table of the passage of the Moon through the signs of the Zodiac in the month you need, in which phase of the Moon you will sow or plant your plants. If you follow the signs of the Zodiac, then find in the table the days in bold that fall in the moon phase you have chosen. These are the ones that are considered the most suitable. Days that are currently considered unfavorable are marked with an asterisk. In addition, the days of the New Moon and Full Moon, as well as the time 12 hours before their onset and 12 hours after, are marked with an asterisk, since this is considered to be an unfavorable time for work in the garden. Additionally, for vegetables, all days when the Moon is in the sign of Leo are considered unfavorable, so they are marked with an asterisk. However, Leo days are favorable for planting fruit and berry plants. For all plants, Aquarius days are also considered unsuitable, and they are marked with an asterisk.

The entire period of the Moon's revolution around the Earth is traditionally divided into 4 lunar phases. The first phase lasts from the New Moon to the middle of the waxing Moon, the second - from this moment to the Full Moon, the third - from the Full Moon to the middle of the waning Moon, and the fourth - from this point to the next New Moon. Accordingly, during the first phase the root system grows more intensively, in the second - the above-ground part, in the third - the root system again, in the fourth - again the above-ground part, and therefore the first and third phases of the Moon are most suitable for planting seedlings, planting and replanting plants, and for sowing seeds - the second and fourth.

On each page of the calendar, under the corresponding month, there is a line called “Phases of the Moon.” This line contains the signs, and between them are Roman numerals, which indicate which of the four phases the Moon is in during this period of time. There are numbers above the signs on the line above. The numbers above each sign above the brackets at the top indicate dates; The exact Moscow time of the New Moon, the middle of the waxing moon period, the Full Moon, the middle of the waning moon period is indicated in brackets. Hours are separated from minutes by a dot.

The long-term calendar of the famous gardener with half a century of experience, G. Kizim, is an indispensable assistant for gardeners and gardeners. It indicates the main work for each month, and also tells about when and what to sow, plant and replant; what and when to fertilize and feed; what, when and how to protect against diseases and pests; how to use the phases of the lunar cycle to grow excellent crops.

What and when to plant, protect and fertilize. Gardener's calendar until 2019

Work calendar for the whole year: What, when and how to do in the garden

The calendar, addressed to amateur gardeners, lists by month the main work that needs to be done in the garden, vegetable garden, and flower garden throughout the year. But the weather, as you know, is a capricious lady, and for example, the onset of spring may shift two weeks earlier or later relative to the calendar date, so the deadlines for completing these works are indicated approximately. It is also important to take into account the difference in the timing of plant development in the south and north. Thus, the beginning of sap flow in plants in the south occurs on average a month and a half earlier than in the north, so you should not literally follow the calendar; it is much more important to carefully monitor the condition of the plants in your area and, taking into account local weather conditions, carry out the work recommended in the calendar on time.

Notice the day when coltsfoot flowers bloom in your area. In 15–17 days, buds will begin to bloom on birch, mountain ash and currants. 28 days after the coltsfoot begins to bloom, the bird cherry will bloom, and a week later the gooseberry will bloom. 5 days after this, black currants bloom, followed a couple of days later by cherries and plums. The flowering of apple trees of summer varieties will be delayed for another 3 days, and only after that, after 3–4 days, the strawberries will begin to bloom, and literally the next day the lilac will bloom. Red rowan will bloom another 2 days later, and from this point on the recurrent night frosts usually stop. True, for the North-West this law may be violated and frosts may occur even in the twentieth of June. Raspberries are the last to bloom - 12–13 days after red rowan.

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima

A brief description of how to use the lunar calendar

On each page of the calendar, under the corresponding month, there is a line called “Phases of the Moon.” This line contains the signs

And between them are Roman numerals, which indicate which of the four phases the Moon is in during this period of time. There are numbers above the signs on the line above. The numbers above each sign above the brackets at the top indicate dates; The exact Moscow time of the New Moon, the middle of the waxing moon period, the Full Moon, the middle of the waning moon period is indicated in brackets. Hours are separated from minutes by a dot.

The Roman numeral IV denotes the fourth phase of the Moon (before the New Moon), and the number I denotes the first phase of the Moon, which always occurs immediately after the New Moon. The topmost line indicates the nature of the Moon in the period (growing from

Or decreasing from

Your work should be coordinated with the climate in your area. If you usually sow in February, March, then you need to sow at this time, and if you live in the north, then sowing in your area takes place in April or May and even in June. The tables indicate Moscow time, therefore, you should take into account your time zone. Residents of regions located east of Moscow must add the number of hours corresponding to their time zone to the indicated time to get local time. Residents living west of Moscow need to take the required number of hours. In addition, this year everyone should subtract 2 hours from Moscow time, since it is 2 hours ahead of the astronomical time according to which the rest of the world lives. Therefore, do not be surprised that when crossing the border with Finland you must set your watch back 2 hours.

Awareness of the goal is the key to the success of the entire enterprise

First of all, you must decide why you need the land, and then act in accordance with your goal, because you cannot embrace the immensity, and even on six acres. Different goals mean different management methods.

If you have purchased a vacation plot, then of the entire series of books I have planned, only two will be useful to you: “How to decorate a garden with flowers” and “On ornamental plants in a small garden,” and you do not need this book.

If you want to grow products for sale, then in our conditions it is best to grow early varieties of strawberries using intensive methods with minimal labor costs, using covering materials to obtain early harvests. I will talk about such technologies in detail in a book dedicated to the garden. In our middle zone, you can successfully grow early greens, sorrel and rhubarb, and autumn radishes for sale, since in the spring they quickly bolt and lose their marketable appearance. And of course, lettuce, which, by the way, can be grown all summer long if you agree with any restaurant or store for its constant supply. But it is more profitable to sell cucumbers in freshly salted, canned or salted form, and only sauerkraut, and this is a very profitable business, even if you do not grow cabbage for this purpose, but simply buy it fresh. If you equip a good storage facility, you can grow late varieties of carrots and beets, which store well, and sell them in late spring, when young imported carrots are prohibitively expensive, and old ones, as a rule, have a rather pitiful appearance, although they also cost a decent amount. Good earnings can be made by growing seed potatoes of new or popular varieties, since in recent years potato planting material has become very expensive.

Nowadays there are excellent units for drying vegetables and herbs on sale. This makes it possible to cook for future use and sell not only dried herbs, spices, vegetables, but also create ready-made kits for sale for seasoning soups, cabbage soup, and borscht. You can also make good money selling fresh currants and gooseberries, since large farms have practically stopped growing them due to the low profitability of berry gardens.

Good earnings are brought by perennial rhizomatous, bulbous and tuberous flowers, rooted rare ornamental shrubs or conifers. Only cut flowers do not bring profit, which are still inferior to imported flowers, which are presented in abundance in any city. You can grow tendrils of new varieties of strawberries for sale or root cuttings of new varieties of black currants. Varietal lilac is also especially popular with us. Growing small pieces of bentgrass lawn for sale can also bring good income. I am also going to talk in detail about growing lawns and flower beds in a separate book. Before you start growing commercial goods in your garden, you need to calculate everything well and find a market, and only then “start production.” After all, it will require some investments, and it is important for us that the costs are more than recouped, and do not bring continuous losses and disappointment. It is also important to remember that success can only be achieved if you fully master the secrets of growing crops and are able to greatly simplify your small farm. In addition, experience suggests that you should not deal with many crops at once; as they say, less is more. You can grow a little bit of everything just for yourself.

If your goal is to grow early, environmentally friendly products for your family, then, firstly, do not use chemicals on your plot to treat plants against pests and diseases, and do not apply excessive amounts of mineral fertilizers. Dr. Mittleider's widely publicized method of growing vegetables produces excellent yields, but they are also highly mineralized, so too much is not necessarily good. If you want to get early products for yourself, you need to plant early varieties and hybrids using covering materials, greenhouses and greenhouses.

A completely different approach is needed if your goal is to grow products for winter storage and preparation. Here, late varieties should be used, since they are better stored, and planted at a later date, and the storage will have to be equipped on a loggia, balcony or plot.

For reasonably lazy gardeners

It would be a good idea for all gardeners who have reached adulthood to become reasonably lazy. It should be remembered that we are not for the garden, but it is for us. We need to organize things in such a way that we not only work in the garden from dawn to dusk, but also have time to relax and admire our achievements, otherwise many people plant flowers, but during the entire season they cannot find even a minute to look at them. As they say, to work less, you need to think more. So, what can we offer for the reasonably lazy?

1. Plan your work in advance, highlighting the most urgent and important ones. Everything must be done on time, then you will have time to do everything, and there will even be time left, because most of the work can be done in the fall, after harvesting. This is exactly what this book was designed for. All garden work is sequentially distributed over the months so that you can get everything done in time. They must be performed in the order specified.

2. The most difficult job on the site is digging the ground. Do not dig, but loosen; to do this, you need to make the soil in your area light and loose; if necessary, make it artificial. I already wrote about this in the book “As You Plant, So You Eat.”

Do not water the weeds under berry bushes and trees, but only cut them at the soil level with a special weeder or a sharpened shovel or a Fokin flat cutter and leave them right there under the plants. Firstly, it is the organic matter necessary for plants, and secondly, it is mulch, which protects the top layer of soil from drying out, which halves the amount of watering. Thirdly, there is no need to compost the weeds and then return the rotted compost back under the bushes - let them rot right on the spot naturally. And fourthly, a layer of mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, so they will grow less and less. Pour all the slops and water from the laundry one by one directly under the apple trees, and to prevent flies from appearing in the slops, cover them with cut weeds. And don’t be afraid of the pests that supposedly hibernate under the layer of this mulch - there are no less and no more of them than usual. There is no need to dig up the tree trunk circles. When treating your garden for pests in the fall, spray not only the plantings, but also the soil underneath them - the pests will die.

4. Another labor-intensive task is watering. To prevent the seeds sown in the spring from drying out, they must be covered with film or double spunbond immediately after sowing and the film should be removed only after germination, and the spunbond should be left in one layer - then you won’t have to deal with pests. Systematic watering is required only for young shoots of greens and vegetables in the spring, and starting from the moment the root crop or bulb sets, watering should be stopped altogether. Only cabbage and radishes need constant watering. Cucumbers can be immediately planted on gel (“Aquadon”), which retains moisture in the soil, and then they can be watered once every two weeks. Many people believe that zucchini and pumpkins also need constant watering, like, say, cucumbers. And they are mistaken, because, unlike cucumbers, these crops are drought-resistant and need to be watered sparingly.

5. Another favorite activity you can avoid is pest and disease control. Nobody attacks healthy plants, because they quickly synthesize protein, and there is more of it in the cell sap than carbohydrates, and pests, as you know, prefer sugar, that is, carbohydrates. In weakened plants, protein synthesis is slow and carbohydrates predominate in the cell sap, which is what pests look for in order to feed. So try to keep the plants in your area healthy, help them, if necessary, strengthen their own immune system with the help of the latest drugs of biological origin. Use good seeds of zoned varieties, plant varieties and hybrids that are resistant to common diseases, do not use pesticides - do not interfere with beneficial insects and birds to cope with pests themselves. And to strengthen the immune system of plants, spray your garden with Silk (or Novosil), Zircon, Epin-Extra, Energen or Healthy Garden preparations - this is beneficial for plants and harmless to beneficial insects and birds and your own liver.

6. You will need to add organic matter in the fall only to the beds, since it will accumulate under the bushes and trees over the summer. You won’t have to remove fallen leaves - one less job, and mineral fertilizers can be applied in very small quantities and, moreover, once every three years, if you use the new AVA fertilizer. So they avoided another labor-intensive task - transporting mineral fertilizers to the site every year.

7. Spring planting can be made easier by sticking the seeds onto toilet paper with starch in the winter. In the spring, all that remains is to roll out the rolls on a moistened bed and sprinkle a layer of prepared soil on top - that’s all for sowing.

8. We age along with the garden, and therefore try to organize your flower beds in such a way that they do not require a lot of work from you, therefore, if you are no longer young, give up rocky and alpine hills, overly complex flower beds or overly whimsical flowers. Leave those that do not require constant care: astilbes, phlox, daisies, perennial bells and asters, hostas, lupins, daylilies, Siberian irises, peonies, lilies (best of all Asian hybrids), daffodils - this is the small assortment that you can stop at , and then it’s a matter of your taste to arrange them on the site so that they please the eye all summer.

Don't forget Plyushkin

Also burn boiled bones from the soup with wood - they will enrich the ash with phosphorus.

Dry the potato peelings by spreading them in a thin layer on newspaper near the radiator. When dry, place in an open plastic bag. If necessary, take it to the site and burn it in the stove. Potato peelings, firstly, will enrich the ash with a large number of microelements, and secondly, they will burn the ash in the chimneys. The ash should be allowed to cool completely in the ash pan and only then pour it into a metal container and cover with a lid so that it does not get damp. In spring and summer, use ash to deoxidize the soil. But do not immediately add large doses of ash for this, since ash is mostly alkali, and it immediately dissolves in water, sharply increasing the pH of the soil, which can exceed the pH mark of 6.5 and block the phosphorus in the soil. In addition to calcium, ash also contains phosphorus, potassium and other mineral elements necessary for plants, but all of them, unlike calcium, will slowly dissolve in water. Therefore, ash should be added to the soil in advance or an extract should be prepared from it: pour 1 liter of hot water into a glass of ash and let it brew overnight, then add another 9 liters of cold water, stir and feed the plants at the rate of 1 liter of solution per square meter of planting.

Don't forget to collect any spilled tea and coffee as well. Spread each portion on a flat plate in a thin layer, place the plate under the radiator, when the layer of tea or coffee has not dried, pour it into an open bag. If you pour new portions of wet tea onto a plate, the tea or coffee dust will become moldy. It's not scary, but it's unpleasant. Use dry tea dust when sowing carrots or other small seeds by mixing 1 teaspoon of seeds with a glass of dust and sowing the mixture on one square meter of soil surface. Then you will not have thickened crops; In addition, it has been noticed that carrots grow much better when sown with tea or coffee dust. If, before sowing, the grooves prepared for seeds are “salted” with the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer, then no mineral fertilizing will be required.

Do not throw away champagne bottles during the year: you can use them to enclose flower beds by simply sticking their necks into the ground or laying them on cement mortar. Dark glass heats up well during the day and gives off heat during the cold night, protecting heat-loving flowers such as lilies, gladioli, and dahlias from the cold.

Metal cans and plastic bottles can be used for drainage. You can also grow seedlings in plastic bottles. And as mentioned above, they can be used to produce drip irrigation while simultaneously feeding plants. The resulting plugs from the soil will not allow the solution to quickly flow out of the bottle; the solution will slowly seep directly into the root zone, constantly supplying the plants with moisture and nutrition. A two-liter bottle is enough for four tomato bushes for 10 days, and for cucumbers for a week in hot weather. The easiest way to prepare a nutrient solution: 4 teaspoons of Uniflor-bud fertilizer per 10 liters of water, if, of course, the soil was filled with organic and mineral fertilizers before planting. If you constantly go to the site, then you can take away all the kitchen waste, putting it on a compost heap, but they must be sprinkled on top with peat or soil to prevent rats and flies.

In general, we must remember that everything begins with soil microorganisms and everything ends with them, and therefore we must return to the earth what we took from it with the harvest or as a result of our other activities. Return organic matter to soil microorganisms and earthworms in the form of leaves, stems of fruit-bearing plants, kitchen waste, paper, cardboard. They will gratefully process everything and enrich the soil with the products of their vital activity - humus - the main source of plant life on earth. Nowadays, special organic substrates have even been created containing microorganisms that contribute to the rapid development of soil microflora. With their help, compost, sawdust, manure, peat and simply the green mass of weeds are quickly (within one summer) overheated. One of these substrates is called “Revival”, the other “EM-1” (Effective Microorganisms), a series of bioenzyme products “Ecological Set for Summer Residents” (“Micropan”) has also appeared, there is also a mineral fertilizer AVA, which stimulates the growth of soil and rainwater microorganisms worms

Use ash as mineral fertilizers, and old plaster, unused cement and ash as deoxidizers. To improve the health of the soil, sow annual lupine in each bed for at least one season and, without allowing it to bloom, dig it up along with the roots and leaves. After harvesting, immediately sow the beds with white mustard or winter rye. They will significantly improve the health of the soil and increase its fertility.

Use an infusion of pine needles against pests.

There is no bad weather

In order for your plants to always be healthy, you need to know what happens to them in this or that weather, and be able to provide the plants with the necessary support. With a long-term (10-14 days) cold spell, the roots stop absorbing phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), the plants begin to experience phosphorus and potassium starvation, and they need to be fed with these elements. It is useless to feed at the roots - it is still not absorbed, which means that you need to give foliar feeding. It should be recalled here that the concentration of a solution of mineral fertilizers for foliar feeding should be 5–10 times less than for root feeding in order to avoid burns and death of leaves. In addition, in different plants, the roots stop absorbing P and K at different temperatures. So, for cold-resistant crops this temperature is below 10 °C, for potatoes, beets, onions, peas, cauliflower - below 12–15 °C, for cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and watermelons - below 16 °C, and for tomatoes, peppers , eggplants – below 18 °C.

With frequent sharp fluctuations in sunny and cloudy weather, plants lack magnesium (Mg). It is contained in the same way as Ca in dolomite flour, therefore, if you add dolomite for calcium supplementation, then you do not need to add magnesium, and if you add other deoxidizers, then you need to add additional magnesium. To do this, just dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salts (sold in pharmacies) in a bucket of water and use this volume to water a five-meter bed. During prolonged cloudy weather, it is better not to feed plants, since fertilizing is poorly absorbed due to weak photosynthesis (the process of carbon nutrition of plants due to solar energy). In sunny weather, this process is active, and plants make full use of all nutrient soil solutions; at this time it is best to feed the roots, and it is more effective to do this during watering. Any fertilizing, both root and foliar, should be done in the afternoon. Foliar feeding requires 3-4 hours of non-raining weather to give the leaves time to use the nutrients before they are washed away by rain. During prolonged rainy weather, N and K are washed out from the upper nutrient layer to lower layers, and plants begin to experience their deficiency.

Work calendar for the whole year

January

1. To prevent branches from breaking off under the weight of snow, shake it off the trees.

2. Trample down the snow under young trees, if you have not tied them with fiberglass, so that in the loose snow mice cannot make passages to the trunks and gnaw the bark. You don't have to trample on old trees.

4. Retain snow by raking snow into ridges across the slope.

6. Collect eggshells, onion and garlic peels, citrus peels, potato peelings, waste paper, and wood ash at home.

8. Buy a film for greenhouses that is better durable, for example, “Svetlitsa” from the St. Petersburg company “Shar”, complete mineral fertilizers, such as “Kemira” made in Finland, AVA, “Uniflor”, created by St. Petersburg scientists, organic fertilizers created on the basis of humates, for example, “Fitosporin”, “Gumi”, “Barrel and four buckets”, “Lignohumate”. There are also good buoy fertilizers. Buy garden tools and mechanisms from reliable companies, in particular from Usadba-Moto. You will also need deoxidizers, so it is better to use dolomite than lime. Because lime dissolves in water and is carried by it to the lower layers, and dolomite dissolves only in acidic soils. As soon as it deoxidizes the soil to neutral, dolomite stops dissolving and lies in the soil until it acidifies again, since it does not dissolve in water and is not washed out of the arable soil layer.

Folk weather signs in January

If January is cold, then June will be dry and hot: don’t wait for mushrooms until autumn.

If there are frequent snowfalls and blizzards in January, there will be frequent rains in July.

End of introductory fragment.

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima

Awareness of the goal is the key to the success of the entire enterprise

I will talk about such technologies in detail in a book dedicated to the garden. In our middle zone, you can successfully grow early greens, sorrel and rhubarb, and autumn radishes for sale, since in the spring they quickly bolt and lose their marketable appearance. And of course, lettuce, which, by the way, can be grown all summer long if you agree with any restaurant or store for its constant supply. But it is more profitable to sell cucumbers in freshly pickled, canned or salted form, and only sauerkraut, and this is a very profitable business, even if you do not grow cabbage for this purpose, but simply buy it fresh. If you equip a good storage facility, you can grow late varieties of carrots and beets, which store well, and sell them in late spring, when young imported carrots are prohibitively expensive, and old ones, as a rule, have a rather pitiful appearance, although they also cost a decent amount. Good earnings can be made by growing seed potatoes of new or popular varieties, since in recent years potato planting material has become very expensive.

For intelligently lazy gardeners

Don't forget Plyushkin

Also burn boiled bones from the soup with wood - they will enrich the ash with phosphorus.