Filter for heating system - design and installation. Filter for heating boiler from scale Filter for cleaning the heating system of a gas boiler
Owners of private houses who live in them all year round know that installing and maintaining a heating system is not a cheap pleasure, so it is important to pay attention to protecting complex equipment from various hazards and contaminants. For this purpose, special filter elements are used.
In order for the heating system in the house to work properly for many years, it is necessary to install special filters that will protect pipes and radiators from clogging, rust, scale, and pollutants. Magnetic, mud, settling tanks and other types of structures will extend the life of expensive equipment and allow you not to worry about premature breakdowns.
The owners will only need to timely replace the filter elements and scheduled maintenance of the equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
What are filters for heating systems - types
The following types of heating filters are distinguished:
- Rough or pre-cleaning. They must be installed at the stage of connecting to the central water supply (if such a possibility exists). The most reliable model is a sedimentation tank with a flask for the accumulation of pollutants.
- Fine cleaning. Detains contaminants up to 100 microns in size.
- Magnetic devices. They attract metallized components - chips, rust, etc.
Let's take a closer look at each type.
Coarse filters are designed to retain large contaminants and can be installed simultaneously in several areas of the system. Presented in the following modifications:
- Mud trap: connects to the central heating system, at branch points (can be flanged, welded, threaded),
- Settlement filter: a more modern model, dirt is retained in a special flask made of heat-resistant plastic (due to the transparency of the flask, you can control its filling level).
- Fine cleaning – installed as an addition to coarse cleaning devices. The main impact in such devices is taken by the square or cylindrical cassettes installed inside. Such devices can be attached to the wall, which is especially important for plastic pipes.
- Magnetic filters– consist of two magnets with opposite poles. Metal waste entering a magnetic field is attracted and retained by such a device. The design can also be equipped with a dirt filter. Magnetic models can be either removable and quite easily installed on the pipe, or non-removable. Recommended as an additional cleaning device.
Many people ask the question: is it worth spending money on purchasing all types of filters? Perhaps only a coarse cleaning device will be enough? Experts assure that the most effective protection will be provided by all types of structures that will retain as much possible contamination and impurities as possible. The coarse filter can only cope with large particles, and this is not enough for the heating system to fully operate for a long time.
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As the name implies, a water purification filter is designed to protect the coolant from various contaminants that enter the system with the water flow.
Filters retain:
- lime,
- sand,
- dirt,
- dust,
- gaseous impurities.
Mechanical models trap particles larger than 0.3 microns. It is convenient to rinse the mesh of such a device by hand under running water and put it back.
Electronic options are more expensive, but trap contaminants up to 0.01 microns in size.
Manufacturers also offer carbon models that absorb unpleasant odors and chemical impurities well.
Cleaning heating systems using filters provides:
- protection of expensive equipment,
- increasing the service life of equipment,
- savings on heating system maintenance.
Installation, maintenance, and cleaning can be done on your own.
In general, the algorithm for installing a filter is as follows:
- Before starting work, flush the heating system if it is not new. Remove dirt, rust, and sediment from the pipeline.
- Check the compatibility of the equipment and the purchased filter.
- Install the device in front of a gas boiler or pump. If there is no pump, then the installation is carried out in front of the pipe entry point into the heating boiler.
- It is recommended to install shut-off valves before and after the structure, which will ensure ease of replacement and washing in the future.
If possible, the installation location should be convenient for maintenance, since the device will need to be washed regularly.
How often to service your home heating system - instructions
The filter must be cleaned at least once a month during the heating season.
In order to clean, you must:
- Shut off the water in the area where the filter is installed.
- Place a container to drain the water, remove the plug of the device.
- Remove the mesh, clean it of dirt, and rinse it under running water.
- Put the mesh in place and tighten the plug.
- Open the valves.
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In case of severe contamination, complete dismantling of the device and subsequent replacement may be required.
In addition to cleaning and replacing filters, you must:
- before the start of the heating season, test the system, check the functionality of the boiler, flush the pipes,
- clean the boiler fireboxes, chimney, check the operation of the burner, eliminate leaks, regulate gas pressure.
Careful attention to the heating system and its working elements will extend the life of the equipment and ensure its uninterrupted operation throughout the heating season.
Maintaining a comfortable temperature in a private home is impossible to imagine without heating devices. It is not enough to purchase equipment, connect the lines and start operating. It is important to ensure the required water quality. The absence of filter elements causes premature failure of expensive equipment and increases maintenance costs. This is why water purification filters for heating systems are necessary. Let us dwell in detail on their features, purpose, as well as the specifics of installation.
What is a filter for a heating system
Today it is difficult to surprise anyone with the presence of an individual heating system. It maintains a comfortable temperature in the room and can function flawlessly for a long time. To ensure that expensive equipment does not fail prematurely heating, filter installation must be carried out without fail.
The required water quality should be maintained. After all, low-quality coolant contains various types of foreign inclusions:
- small and large grains of sand;
- metal or rust particles;
- mud inclusions;
- organic waste.
The filter device is a mandatory attribute of the heating circuit. It is responsible for the cleanliness of the coolant. This is especially true when using water coming from wells, individual wells or reservoirs.
How does a filter work for heating a private home?
The filter element installed on the supply line, depending on the design features of the device, retains foreign inclusions of various sizes. This allows you to extend the service life and protect the heating system elements from damage:
- heating lines;
- heating boiler;
- circulation pump.
They are susceptible to the presence of foreign inclusions in the coolant. In the process of pumping significant volumes of heated water, the intensity of contaminant deposition increases, which causes a gradual decrease in the cross-section.
Result:
- increase in pressure in the circuit;
- violation of the tightness of highways;
- breakdown of heating equipment.
The operating principle is based on filtering various types of impurities that pose a danger to heating equipment. If the mesh element becomes clogged, it is easy to rinse it under a strong stream and install it back into the housing.
Why are heating boiler water filters needed?
The filter is an inexpensive device, the price of which is not commensurate with the cost of repairing a heating boiler or replacing a circulation pump. The use of filter devices in heating circuits solves a number of serious problems:
- protects expensive equipment;
- increases the period of trouble-free operation;
- reduces maintenance and repair costs;
- protects equipment elements from blockages;
- increases the reliability of the heating system.
When using low-quality coolant, the heating chamber gradually becomes clogged, the cross-section of the lines decreases, which causes overheating of the equipment and deterioration in performance characteristics. At the same time, the circulation pump, which is sensitive to metal inclusions and foreign impurities, suffers.
Where to install a filter for the heating system of a private house
Various sections of the heating circuit can be used for installation:
- the supply line through which water is supplied;
- inlet pipe connected to the heating boiler.
Different types of filter elements are installed in different ways:
- a mud filter, mounted on the inlet pipe, protects the system from the ingress of large impurities;
- fine filtration devices are installed after coarse filters and work in tandem with them;
- magnetic elements that retain metal inclusions are mounted at the entrance to the boiler.
A correctly selected installation location ensures reliable operation of the equipment.
Filter for a heating boiler - types of devices and main differences
When deciding to install a filter, consider its purpose and pay attention to design features. The following devices are used:
- pre-cleaning. Filter large particles measuring 0.3 mm;
- fine filtration. Retain foreign inclusions up to 0.1 mm in size;
- magnetic devices. They impede the penetration of particles up to 100 microns in size.
According to the principle of operation, the elements are divided into the following types:
- coal. Eliminate unpleasant odors;
- electronic. Filters out the smallest particles;
- mechanical. Perform a rough cleaning.
For coarse filtration, an oblique heating filter with a mesh located in a brass body is widely used.
Installation of a heating filter and its maintenance
Self-installation of the heating filter is carried out according to the following recommendations:
- Use a filter that matches the cross-section of the pipeline.
- Select a mounting location on the inlet pipe in front of the pump.
- Clean the system of contaminants.
- Mount the device using adapters.
- Seal the joint areas with special tape.
- Install valves to make maintenance easier.
Perform maintenance work on the filter element when its throughput decreases:
- Close the valves.
- Unscrew the cap and remove the mesh.
- Rinse the mesh and reassemble the device.
- Open the taps.
Cleaning should be done at least once every 6 months. The frequency of operations depends on the degree of water contamination.
It is impossible to imagine an individual heating system without filter elements. They ensure its durability, avoid problem situations and reduce maintenance costs. The combined use of various elements increases the cleaning efficiency. It is not advisable to save on this.
The main task of any boiler house is to provide the consumer with both hot water all year round and heating during the cold season. Mother Russia is a country where frosts rage over a large part of the country for more than 6 months a year. And in this case, the normal operation of the boiler room is an issue that should be resolved not only at the local level. Today, more and more authorities are becoming involved in these processes. It will help to help the system work without interruptions water filter for gas boiler.
Which filter to choose: compare prices
The nuances of boiler maintenance are often directly related to the type of boiler. There are actually not so many of them, but, nevertheless, they greatly influence the requirements for water quality. The water for a steam boiler must be virtually ideal. A water boiler does not require such high quality.
The distribution of water requirements depending on the type of boiler will be as follows:
An example of magnetic water filters for boilers can be found in a variety of boiler installations. The most difficult system will be for a steam boiler. But today, for the most part, they continue to use gas boilers. Let's look at them in more detail.
What is a gas boiler then and now? Previously it was a large boiler with a powerful burner. There was also an ineffective heat exchanger located here. All this was controlled manually without any automatic manipulators. Thanks to technical progress and new technologies, a boiler using gas today has a water part, a gas part, and an electric part.
At the same time, the operation of a gas boiler is quite delicate and it is quite easy to break the entire system. To do this, it is enough to provide hard water, voltage drops or stray current in the gas pipeline. Therefore, the main condition for the normal operation of a gas boiler is high-quality protection.
How to protect the electronics of a gas boiler? This is where stray current causes the most trouble. However, there may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
- Damage to the gas pipeline;
- Accidents;
- Damage to insulation;
- Illegal grounding.
To minimize the risk of stray current, it is recommended to increase the insulating layer on the pipes. The dielectric coating is installed on the pipes, immediately before the communications enter the house. The second option for additional protection is a dielectric at the entrance of the pipes to the boiler. But on the other hand, this method of protection is purely advisory.
Polyphosphate filter. It does not soften the water, but it does remove scale from the boiler! Average price 3,500 rub.
The next problem is power surges in the network. This drawback can only be overcome by installing a stabilizer-rectifier and nothing else. Moreover, installation of a stabilizer device is mandatory for any gas boiler. All this is enshrined in permitting documents.
Electromagnetic filter. It also does not soften water. but extremely effective for cleaning and protecting against scale in the boiler. Price 8,800 - 11,500 rub.
The task of such a stabilizer is to equalize the voltage and protect against interference in the network. With such a stabilizer, the voltage will never go beyond the permitted limits of the corridor. A gas boiler must operate only through a stabilizer. But here it is extremely important to buy the right rectifier device, because... There are a lot of fakes on the market. In addition, not all stabilizers are able to compensate for fluctuations in boiler voltage. Therefore, you should always consult a specialist when choosing something like this. Where voltage drops are constant. Seven-storage or relay rectifiers should be installed. At short overloads they are very effective.
Cartridge filter. Extremely low throughput. Average price 4,000 rubles.
A servo drive is a way to protect the boiler from over or under voltage in the network. Another problem that breaks equipment is a power outage; in this case, you need to use an uninterruptible power supply. It helps protect the board from burning out. So, purchasing a polyphosphate or electromagnetic filter to soften water for a boiler is just the tip of the iceberg. After the electrical component of a gas boiler comes the gas component. Gas also produces smoke, soot, and wear of supply components - all this should be constantly monitored.
First, gas also has a composition. It can be liquefied or it can be gaseous. And the gas can also contain sediment - tar, sand, mechanical inclusions. Even dust and scale can end up in the gas. And you need to get rid of all this, because... any impurity in the gas means a reduction in the service life of the equipment and a sharp increase in the risk of breakdowns. To eliminate at least debris, a gas filter is installed in front of the burner, which removes small suspended particles.
And the last stage will be to protect the boiler heat exchanger and the water part of the boiler room. In addition to hardness, there is also scale, which flows off when the surfaces are constantly heated. Here a conventional mechanical filter using mesh is used. This option is most convenient for removing scale. All accumulated debris has to be manually washed off the grids of the cartridge water filter for a gas boiler so that it does not fail prematurely.
Boiler breakdowns and the role of softening filters
To eliminate water hardness, water softening filters for the boiler are used. For hot water boiler rooms, the most convenient is an electromagnetic softening (softening) filter. Moreover, it will most accurately help the boiler to operate longer, regardless of the model of the gas boiler. Another problem with boiler equipment is the fact that it is important not only to use soft water, but also to keep the internal surfaces of all communications clean. And in this case, it is the electromagnetic effect that will be most ideal. And the systems are quite cheap and guarantee clean surfaces and, what is extremely important, are able to work for years and decades.
You can try working with magnetic filters if the water still supplied to the system is cold. But such devices have a number of serious limitations. But it is guaranteed that there will be no scale on the surfaces of the equipment. A light crystal-like sediment that is very easy to wash off with regular washing, without any additional chemicals.
But, unfortunately, gas boilers often break down due to so many systems. To minimize the number of breakdowns, technologists equipped the boiler with a troubleshooting system to quickly determine the cause of breakdowns and correct the situation. This functionality checks all system components for operability and then displays the result on the display. The error code can be identified using special instructions. It becomes clear what is suffering and where and what needs to be repaired. With such convenient diagnostics, contacting a service center is much more convenient, because the operator only needs to state the breakdown code. And the service technician will arrive on site with the necessary tool and the required replacement part.
But let’s return to considering the models of magnetic water filters for the boiler. The simplest thing that can be used to protect the boiler from scale formation is a chemical dispenser, which will periodically supply softening agents to the system. Moreover, such a magnetic filter should be mounted on a water supply system, and it is imperative to supplement the system with a special hole in the pipe, which will allow you to periodically check its electrical conductivity. The higher it is, the harder the water. This means there are not enough softening agents in the system.
The second option for softening water for a hot water boiler room is, but since such a device periodically needs to be restored, the engineers made it a lot of cabinets. Today there are both three-filter and four-filter units. The essence of such a multi-case design is that when the cartridge of one case goes to be restored, some other filter must continue to supply soft water to the system, without interruption. The water supply to the filter being restored is stopped, and the water goes to the remaining housings, distributing the load evenly. But such a multi-body design makes the devices huge and cumbersome. And constant replacement or restoration of cartridges cannot be called cheap.
And the most convenient is electromagnetic. It does not need to be maintained, nothing needs to be changed. It will work not the standard 5-7 years, it will last 20-30 years. Moreover, the material of the pipes does not matter. It is only important that the inner surface for installation is cleaned, then the magnetic field will work more quickly. All such a device needs is a timely supply of electricity. And here an uninterrupted device will not hurt so that the board does not burn out. Such a device modifies hardness salts, they change shape and begin to behave a little differently. Only the new form prevents them from accomplishing the main thing - sticking. But they very efficiently remove old scale from surfaces, without any help or scratches with grooves. So, while softening, this device also cleans perfectly, without the help of human power.
Any heating system, no matter whether central or completely autonomous, is a rather complex “organism” that includes many elements, each of which fulfills one purpose or another. And in this list of components there must be a place for filtration and coolant purification devices. This function is assumed by mud collectors.
When designing central heating systems, such filters are mandatory, both in boiler houses or at thermal stations, and on collectors and elevator units directly in buildings connected to heating networks. But in individual construction, no, no, and there are situations when inexperienced home owners do not fully understand how important mud collectors are for heating systems, and do not include them in a independently developed scheme. And it’s completely in vain - these very inexpensive, easy-to-install and maintain devices can significantly improve the operation of the entire system, significantly extend the trouble-free period of its operation, relieve owners from the rather labor-intensive and dirty work of periodically cleaning pipes and radiators, and significantly reduce operating costs for heating housing.
Purpose of mud filters and advantages of their use
The carrier of thermal energy from the boiler or central line to the radiators is the coolant liquid. Most often, this role is played by water, pure or with some chemical additives. In certain conditions, for example, in private houses where the owners do not live all year round, special liquids that are resistant to negative temperatures are often used - antifreeze, but even in them water takes up a significant part of the total volume.
Water is always a very active oxidizing agent, causing corrosion of metal parts of heating routes, in-house wiring, radiators, shut-off and control valves. The resulting rust particles peel off from the walls over time and are picked up by the flow. However, if certain conditions are created in a pipe, on a tap, in a radiator, at a welded or threaded joint, in a tee or at a bend (narrow passage, unevenness, overflow from a weld, change in flow direction, etc.), then this the place with a high degree of probability becomes vulnerable to the formation of a plug - small particles of scale settle, accumulate, layer, narrowing, and sometimes completely blocking the passage of the coolant.
Many people are probably familiar with the situation when heating radiators heat up unevenly, not over their entire area. It also happens that several sections of the battery generally remain cold - the coolant clearly does not circulate through them.
If the check shows that there is no air in the radiator, then such a picture can only be caused by the accumulation of dirt.
Sometimes when opening the battery you can see a similar “sad” picture Such radiators will not be able to provide the required heat transfer, and you will have to resort to emergency measures - remove them and thoroughly wash them. And this, believe me, is a very complex and time-consuming process.
How are heating radiators flushed?
There are several technologies for cleaning pipes and radiators from accumulations of dirt and scale deposits. Details about how it is performed, the idea and its verification method are described in a special publication on our portal.
Not only radiators become overgrown with dirt - it also clogs pipe channels, taps, air valves, expansion tank pipes, etc. As a result, the operation of the heating system begins to completely go out of balance.
Clogged pipes are an additional, completely unnecessary load on the pump and boiler, unnecessary energy costs Thus, narrowed passages do not provide the required volume of coolant circulation, and in order to achieve the desired temperature it is necessary to increase the current power of the boiler. Moreover, the layer of plaque on the walls of pipes and radiators becomes a “thermal insulating gasket”, that is, heat transfer is sharply reduced. And this is another reason for increasing heating costs.
This “migrating” dirt and solid particles can lead to additional load on the circulation pump, damage to its turbine and complete failure. Well, the saddest thing will be if blockages form in the boiler heat exchanger - this in most cases leads to burnout of the heat exchanger, often leading to the replacement of all expensive equipment as a whole.
An increased concentration of solid inclusions can seriously change the electrolytic characteristics of the coolant, which is extremely undesirable for heating systems operating from an electrode (ion) boiler.
Electrode boilers require special coolant properties
The operating principle of electrode boilers is fundamentally different from other heaters. More details about the device and characteristics can be found in a special publication on our portal.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely eliminate the formation of solid suspensions in the circuits and heat exchange devices of the heating system. This means that it is necessary to organize a “collection point” in which debris and dirt will be retained, filtered out of the liquid, and then regularly removed, using very accessible methods that do not require dismantling any components of the heating system. This is precisely the main function of mud filters.
Equipping the system with such filtering devices immediately provides a number of advantages:
- The most complex and expensive components of the system - the pump and the boiler - receive reliable protection from contamination, channel clogging and damage. Consequently, their service life increases significantly.
- There is no need to frequently drain the coolant to replace it with a new, clean one - it will already be maintained in a condition satisfactory for use. Considering that some coolants cost quite a lot, this is another significant saving.
- The use of filters and high-quality, correctly selected coolant will free owners for a long time from the procedure of cleaning and flushing all heating systems.
Much depends on the quality of the coolant
Of course, maximum efficiency and operational safety of a heating system can only be achieved by using high-quality coolant. A special publication on our portal is entirely devoted to varieties and characteristics.
- Heating radiators that are free from dirt and solid deposits provide maximum heat transfer, and free channels of pipes, fittings, connecting units and control valves provide minimal hydraulic resistance to the coolant. Both allow the boiler and pump to operate optimally with minimal consumption of the corresponding energy carriers. Moreover, it is estimated that in general the saving effect of operating a “clean” system, compared to one with mud deposits, can reach even 40%.
In a word, there is something to think about - installing a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use device immediately gives owners a lot of preferences.
Main types of mud filters and their design
General classification of mechanical cleaning filters
Filters for rough mechanical purification of water from solid impurities (which deserve the name mud filters) use three basic principles for separating suspended matter:
- Settling filters use gravitational forces - due to a sharp increase in volume and, accordingly, a drop in flow rate, solid particles settle to the bottom under the influence of gravity. Often this is complemented by a sharp change in the direction of movement - then turbulent and centrifugal forces are also included in the “work”, carrying more inert heavy particles to the periphery of the flow, where they settle, thereby releasing water.
A typical structure of such a mud trap is shown in the diagram below:
Usually this is a vertically located cylindrical body (item 1), into which two pipes with flange connections are welded: inlet (item 2) and outlet (item 3). The bottom of the body is closed with a flange plug (item 4), the top is welded tightly. The bottom plug usually has a pipe (item 5) for installing a tap to it for carrying out maintenance work - draining sludge and washing the filter. There is also a pipe on top (item 6) - a valve is installed here to release air when the system is filled with coolant.
In the cavity of the central cylinder there may be one or more jumpers (item 7) that sharply change the direction of the flow of water passing through the filter (shown by blue arrows). Solid inclusions (pos. 8) settle down, where a layer of sludge is formed (pos. 9), which is regularly cleaned during maintenance.
Such filters are usually installed on large pipelines, for example, in industrial plants. In a home heating system, their use is not very rational. However, the principle of gravitational water purification is successfully used in other filter models.
- Mesh filters - in them, the water flow is passed through a mesh structure with cells of a certain size. All particles whose diameter exceeds the mesh size remain in the filter.
- Magnetic filters, as the name suggests, contain permanent magnets that attract small particles of metal and metal scale. It is recognized that installing a magnetic filter, in addition, sharply reduces the likelihood of scale formation on the walls of pipes and in the heat exchangers of heating devices.
As already mentioned, very often in modern mud filters used for heating systems, two, and sometimes all three, principles of mechanical water purification are combined.
Depending on the type of installation in the system, mud filters can be of three different designs:
- On pipes of small and medium diameter, typical for autonomous heating systems, sleeve filters are often installed.
On both sides of such a product for connection to pipes there are couplings with internal (there are models with external) threads. Accordingly, hexagons are provided on the filter housing for inserting an open-end, adjustable or gas wrench during installation or dismantling. Such filters are usually immediately “packed” into the system when it is assembled.
- It is extremely difficult to work with threaded connections on medium- and large-diameter pipes (over 2 inches), so filters with flange connections are most often installed in such areas.
A flange connection involves installing an O-ring, and then tightening it with bolts. When initially installing such a filter, there are somewhat more concerns, since it is necessary to weld the counter flanges onto the pipe in a strictly established position while maintaining the installation length of the product. But if you need to remove the filter, this will be quite simple to do, without resorting to dismantling an entire section of wiring.
- There are filters that are mounted “tightly” to the pipes - such devices have pipes on both sides, along the edge of which there is a chamfer - for the weld.
Probably the only advantage of such filters is their lower cost. But in case of an accident or the need for replacement, you will have to cut out a section of the pipe.
Non-removable, welded mud traps also include filters in a polypropylene casing - specially designed for small-diameter pipes of similar design.
They are also welded immediately during installation of the pipework, and to replace them, if necessary, you will have to cut out an entire section. Therefore, they are probably not particularly popular - usually most craftsmen prefer to install metal couplings, and only then switch from them to polypropylene.
According to the method of maintenance, filters also have their own gradation:
- Self-flushing - in such mud tanks there is a tap in the lower part, when opened, the accumulated dirt (sludge) is washed out with a stream of water. At the same time, the filter mesh is cleaned.
For better cleaning of the mesh, a bypass filter with a valve is often provided when installing the filter. This makes it possible to redirect the flow of water from the reverse side during maintenance - even solid inclusions tightly stuck in the cells are washed out very well and drained into the drain tap.
- Wash filters. They do not require dismantling the entire product - after disconnecting a section of the system from the coolant supply, it is enough to unscrew the plug or remove the flange plug, remove the filter element and clean and rinse it (if necessary, or in models with cartridge inserts, replace it with a new one). Then the filter is assembled in the reverse order - and it is ready for use again.
- There is also a category of non-washable mud filters. To service them, you have to completely dismantle the entire device from the system. Of course, this is very inconvenient, and such products are not in demand and are practically not installed in autonomous heating systems.
And finally, mechanical filtration devices can be divided into two categories according to the degree of purification of the liquid passing through them:
- , which, in principle, are called “mud collectors”, have meshes capable of retaining solid inclusions larger than 300 microns (0.3 mm).
- Fine cleaning devices are designed to filter out suspended matter ranging in size from 5 to 300 microns. They are usually used in post-treatment systems for tap water for domestic and food needs. Such filters are not used in a heating system - such high cleaning is not required here, and the filter elements themselves will quickly become clogged and require replacement or washing.
Now let's look at the most common types of mud filters that are installed in heating systems.
Brass mesh “oblique” filters
This is perhaps the most common category of mud filters used in local home heating systems. They have a coupling threaded connection in a fairly wide range of sizes - from ½ to 2 inches, which is quite sufficient for installation on any autonomous heating pipeline.
The design of the filter is quite simple:
The device of a brass “oblique” mud filter The cast brass body (item 1) is a monolithic pairing of two cylinders, straight and inclined (item 3). On both sides of the straight cylinder there are threaded couplings for mounting the filter (item 2). The “oblique” cylinder ends with a brass plug (item 4) with a hex key. A sealing gasket is placed between the plug and the body, usually Teflon (item 5). In the most inclined part there is a filter element - a stainless steel mesh (item 6) with cells of a certain size.
An arrow on the housing must indicate the correct direction of flow of the filtered liquid. The beveled part always faces forward in the direction of flow.
The tables below present the main operational and installation parameters of brass “oblique” filters:
Main performance characteristics of brass “oblique” filters:
| Product parameters | Pipe diameter | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| G½ | G¾ | G 1 | G 1¼ | G 1½ | G 2 | |
| Nominal pressure in the system, bar | 20 | 20 | 20 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
| Crimping pressure, bar | 30 | 30 | 30 | 24 | 24 | 24 |
| Mesh cell size, microns | 500 | 500 | 500 | 800 | 800 | 1000 |
| Distance between the centers of grid cells, mm | 1,1 | 1,1 | 1,1 | 1,4 | 1,4 | 1,6 |
| Density of mesh cells per 1 cm², pcs. | 156 | 156 | 156 | 83 | 83 | 59 |
| Maximum permissible coolant temperature, °C | +150 | |||||
| Degree of transparency (“transparency”) of the filter, % | 39 | 39 | 39 | 53 | 53 | 59 |
| Total filtration surface area with clean mesh, cm² | 17,9 | 32,6 | 44,8 | 55,7 | 77,1 | 111,0 |
| Average throughput of the device with a clean filter element, m³/hour | 3,15 | 5,0 | 9,9 | 15,5 | 24,0 | 28,5 |
| Nominal coolant flow with a clean filter, m³/hour | 1,41 | 2,24 | 4,43 | 6,93 | 10,7 | 12,7 |
| Average filter life | up to 30 years old | |||||
Installation characteristics of filters:
| Conditional bore, DN, mm | Pipe thread diameter | Construction dimensions | Empty weight, kg | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| height H, mm | length L, mm | |||
| 15 | G½ | 40.5 | 51 | 0.132 |
| 20 | G¾ | 47.5 | 63.5 | 0.213 |
| 25 | G 1 | 53 | 68 | 0.285 |
| 32 | G 1¼ | 65 | 91.5 | 0.573 |
| 40 | G 1½ | 73 | 102.5 | 0.750 |
| 50 | G 2 | 88 | 126 | 1.160 |
Installation of such filters is not particularly difficult for those who are familiar with the basics of plumbing techniques. Typically, a shut-off valve is installed in front of the filter - it allows you to shut off the coolant supply to carry out preventive work to clean the device from accumulated dirt. But the main thing that is important to consider is the correct orientation of the filter in space:
| Correct installation | Incorrect installation | ||
|---|---|---|---|
 | Correct installation on a horizontal area. The beveled cylinder is located at the bottom. |  | Quite often, would-be “masters” install the filter with the plug facing up, apparently for reasons that it is easier to get to it during maintenance. However, such placement leads to a very rapid contamination of the passage into the filter chamber with dirt, reducing the throughput of the device |
| Correct installation in a vertical area. The coolant flow is organized from top to bottom. | Such an arrangement in a vertical section with coolant flows upward does not allow filtered sludge to concentrate in the cleaning chamber for preventive maintenance. The cleaning capabilities of the device are sharply reduced, and dirt can accumulate on the walls of pipes or on shut-off valves. | ||
The filter is usually installed on the return pipe in front of the circulation pump or boiler, if the pump is structurally part of the boiler. Thus, all possible contaminants collected along the heating circuit are removed from the coolant, which has described the full circulation cycle.
Regular cleaning of the “oblique” filter is not particularly difficult. You just need to turn off the coolant supply taps on both sides (if a check valve is installed behind the filter along the flow of liquid, then you can only close it from the inlet side). Then a container is supplied from below to collect the leaking liquid and accumulated sludge. The plug is unscrewed with a wrench and the mesh is removed.
The mesh of the “oblique” mud collector, tightly clogged with sludge The mesh should be cleaned with a polymer brush and then rinsed thoroughly with strong water pressure. The glass of the “oblique” cylinder itself is checked - there should also be no deposits left there. Then reassembly is performed by tightening the plug. At the same time, you can evaluate the condition of the sealing gasket, since over time it may require replacement.
Video: device and cleaning process of the “oblique” filter
You should be careful when purchasing such a filter. All the advantages mentioned in the table are valid only for high-quality brass products (some may have an external shiny nickel-plated or oxidized coating). Unfortunately, there are a lot of cheap fakes on the market made from silumin alloys, and no one can guarantee the long-term operation of such a filter.
Cast iron “oblique” magnetic filters
Externally, such filters are very similar to the brass filters discussed above and, in general, are similar to their design. The difference is in the material of manufacture: the body and plug are cast from cast iron. The filter element is the same cylindrical mesh made of stainless steel. The gasket between the plug and the body is usually paronite.
Cast iron “oblique” mud pan with a magnetic block However, the filtering unit is supplemented with one more element. A stand is rigidly mounted along the axis of the plug, on which disk-shaped permanent magnets made of corrosion-resistant material are located at certain intervals. Thus, filtration takes place in two directions - the mesh catches mechanical impurities, and the magnetic block catches metal particles and scale. The quality of coolant cleaning only benefits from this.
Main characteristics of manufactured cast iron “oblique” magnetic filters:
| Conditional bore, DN, mm | Pipe thread diameter | Construction height, mm | Construction length, mm | Socket wrench size, S, mm | Metal mesh cell size, mm | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| N | H1 | L | L1 | ||||
| 25 | G 1 | 80 | 140 | 120 | 200 | 32 | 1.2x1.2 |
| 32 | G 1¼ | 100 | 155 | 140 | 220 | 46 | 1.4x1.4 |
| 40 | G 1½ | 110 | 180 | 160 | 280 | 46 | |
Please note that in the mounting dimensions columns two values of length and height are indicated. L and H are the usual installation values, and L1 and H1 - taking into account the mandatory leaving of the necessary space for free removal of the plug with stand and magnets during maintenance work.
Otherwise, the procedure for installing such filters in the system and the cleaning process do not differ from similar operations with “oblique” brass ones. In this case, the rack with magnetic disks is also cleaned and washed.
Flanged magnetic dirt filters
Such filters almost completely repeat the principle of operation of cast iron “oblique” filters - the only difference is in size. On pipes from G 2 and above, flanged devices are usually installed.
Instead of a threaded plug, there is also a flange type plug. There is often a place for a drain hole, closed with a plug, which allows you to drain the sludge and flush it from time to time without having to remove the entire plug.
Characteristics of flange magnetic filters
| Conditional bore, DN, mm | Construction dimensions of products | Flange bolt hole diameter, d, mm | Number of bolt holes on the flange, n, pcs. | Mesh cell size, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| height, mm | length, mm | ||||||
| N | H1 | L | L1 | ||||
| 50 | 140 | 200 | 230 | 280 | 18 | 4 | 1.4x1.4 |
| 65 | 165 | 250 | 290 | 355 | 18 | 4 | |
| 80 | 195 | 275 | 310 | 385 | 18 | 8 | |
| 100 | 215 | 315 | 350 | 425 | 18 | 8 | |
| 150 | 320 | 490 | 480 | 645 | 22 | 8 | 2x2 |
| 200 | 415 | 630 | 650 | 890 | 22 | 12 | |
When installing such filters, the installation length and height (L and H), and operational length (L1 and H1) are also taken into account - taking into account the place for removing the plug and removing the mesh and magnetic block.
Subscriber filters, mud-settlers
Among the most common filters installed on heating mains, in particular, in areas where they are connected to intra-house networks, are the so-called subscriber filters. They can be produced in vertical or horizontal versions, but vertical is much more common. Such devices combine the functions of a sump and mesh filtering of the liquid passed through them.
Such mud filters are called “subscriber filters.” Such devices have a very long service life, are easy to maintain, and their large internal volume allows you to reduce the frequency of regular maintenance.
Structurally, they are a cylindrical body made of steel pipe (item 1). Nozzles with a flange are welded into it on both sides - inlet (item 2) and outlet (item 3). The nominal diameter of the nozzles corresponds to the pipe into which the filter fits.
The exhaust pipe has a special design. Its length reaches approximately the central axis of the cylindrical body, and is plugged from the inside. In the segment from the wall to the plug, holes with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm are drilled in its walls, so that their total area is no less than twice the cross-sectional area of the pipe. A filter mesh (item 3) with cells of the appropriate size is placed on top of these holes.
A flange is welded along the lower edge of the pipe body, to which the bottom plug is bolted (item 5). Typically, the plug provides the ability to install a drain valve (item 6) for regular cleaning of the cavity from accumulated dirt.
The filter cover is tightly welded, but it has a pipe or hole for mounting an air vent valve (item 7).
Characteristics of the line of vertical subscriber mud filters
| Conditional bore, DN, mm | Mounting dimensions | Empty weight, kg | |
|---|---|---|---|
| height H, mm | length L, mm | ||
| 40 | 217 | 308 | 16.7 |
| 50 | 240 | 359 | 22.7 |
| 65 | 369 | 419 | 45 |
| 80 | 369 | 419 | 48.9 |
| 100 | 421 | 473 | 70 |
| 125 | 421 | 473 | 73 |
| 150 | 563 | 526 | 103.3 |
| 200 | 669 | 626 | 184 |
| 250 | 785 | 730 | 269 |
The coolant, passing through such a filter, goes through two stages of cleaning. Large and medium-sized particles precipitate under the influence of gravitational and centrifugal forces, while smaller ones are already retained on the mesh.
Due to the simplicity and reliability of the design, relatively low production cost, and high operational potential, such subscriber filters are widely used in in-house wiring of heating systems. In particular, they are a mandatory element of the elevator unit.
What is an elevator unit of a heating system?
The temperature and operating pressure of the coolant coming from the heating mains must be brought to certain values that correspond to the capabilities and needs of a specific in-house heating system. One of the simplest and most reliable solutions is installation, the design and operating principle of which is described in a special publication on our portal.
Self-cleaning dirt filter with additional air vent function
And at the end of the publication - an overview of another type of filter. These are modern self-cleaning devices in a compact vertical housing that will not take up much space and will ensure high-quality cleaning of the coolant from impurities.
Moreover, some models are equipped with an additional option - they allow you to separate (separate) dissolved gases and automatically remove them, preventing the well-known “scourge” of any heating system – its “airing”, that is, the formation of air pockets.
One of these filters is shown in the diagram:
Typically, the housing of such a filter is a metal cylinder (item 1), with a coupling connection to the inlet (item 2) and outlet (item 3) pipes. A glass (pos. 6) is screwed to the bottom for collecting sludge (pos. 7) - it can also be metal or plastic, including, on some models, transparent, which allows visual monitoring of the condition of the filter. At the bottom, the glass ends with a tap (item 8) for cleaning and rinsing the device.
There are grids installed inside the central part of the body. One of them, the outer, larger one (item 4), acts as a separator of air and other gases dissolved in water. Bubbles accumulate and grow on it, which then, when they reach a certain size, independently rise upward under the influence of gravity.
An internal mesh with small cells (item 5) is used to filter solid particles from the coolant.
A block for collecting separated air (item 9) with an automatic air removal system is screwed onto the top of the housing. The valve design includes a float (item 10) connected by an actuator lever (item 11) to a needle valve (item 12). As air accumulates in the block, the float drops lower and lower, and when it reaches a certain level, it opens the needle valve through a lever. The air exits through the holes in the cover (item 13), the float rises again, and the valve closes.
The procedure for cleaning such filters from sludge has already been mentioned in the publication - just open the tap from below and wash out the dirt with a stream of water. It’s even better if it is possible to create a reverse flow of liquid for cleaning.
Some filters of this type are additionally equipped with magnetic inserts, which increases cleaning efficiency. In addition, many models have built-in pressure gauges that indicate the fluid pressure at the inlet and outlet of the filter. A simple comparison of the readings of these devices can give a very clear picture of the degree to which the filter elements are clogged with sludge (with a clean filter, the readings should be approximately equal), that is, signal the need for preventive maintenance.
Excessive pressure in the heating system, a sharp temperature jump - all this leads to steel elements and pipes rusting ahead of time. Then the water becomes clogged, which negatively affects the performance of boilers and other heating systems. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, it is recommended to install a water purification filter in the heating system.
Water always contains impurities of foreign elements. If you do not install a special filter, these suspensions will penetrate into the heating equipment, spoiling the condition of the pipes and the equipment itself. In addition, when the liquid in the boiler and radiator heats up, a sediment forms, settling like limescale.
Home heating equipment must include:
- rough cleaning;
- “fine” filtration;
- magnetic cleaning structures (detain chipped pipes and possible rust impurities).
Coarse filtration of heating equipment
The coarse filter allows you to effectively retain most large suspended particles. It is necessary to study the heating system diagram in order to install it in several places at once.
Sump
Elementary design with a mesh catcher. The mud trap is installed on the main connection if we are talking about a central heating system. For circuits belonging to the autonomous type, everything is a little more complicated. The mud trap must be installed on special branches.
By location, a filter of this type can be:
- horizontal;
- vertical.
By filter connection method:
- flanged;
- threaded;
- welding
The mud trap is made of brass or steel. The most popular are brass models. They are able to withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees. Steel models are characterized by similar performance, however, they are prone to rapid corrosion.
The installation of the device must be carried out in the direction of movement of the main coolant, otherwise strong resistance will arise (of the hydraulic type). The sump mesh must be regularly cleaned of accumulated suspended matter (the water must first be turned off).
Sump
A more “advanced” unit, designed for installation in a heating structure, allows you to forget about preventive maintenance for a long time. The dirt filter with a built-in sump has a special flask located in the lower part. All foreign particles of dirt contained in the water sink to its bottom. The advantage of such a flask is that it is made of transparent, high-temperature resistant plastic. A person has the opportunity to constantly visually monitor the degree of its filling.
Design advantages
- Visual inspection of the filter flask. When it is filled, a pre-installed tap at the bottom turns on, and the accumulated contaminants are drained.
- The percentage of air in the water is reduced, and metal elements of heating equipment are not so susceptible to corrosion.
- Simple installation, affordable cost.
“Fine” cleaning of heating equipment
Owners of autonomous heating structures prefer fine filters. It can have the shape of a square or cylinder. When choosing a design, it is taken into account that the manufacturing material can withstand high temperatures.
Important parameters when choosing equipment for home heating:
- It is desirable to be able to attach the equipment to the wall. This is extremely convenient for a plastic pipeline.
- The material from which the equipment is made. The main water filtering element (cassette) should be metal, since metal is most resistant to high temperatures.
- Attention is drawn to the maximum permissible pressure value for the selected model.
Important! If antifreeze is installed, installing a fine filter is strictly prohibited. It is also not necessary if the coolant was treated during installation.
Magnetic filters for heating systems
The unique performance properties of magnetic filters have made them popular for heating systems. The design is really very simple. These are two magnets (opposite poles), located “facing” each other. Once there, metal impurities will simply remain on the surface.
Types of designs of magnetic water filters:
- Removable type. A design of two plates that are mounted directly on the heating pipe. The equipment is characterized by ease of installation; if necessary, it will not be difficult to replace replaceable elements.
- Fixed type. The design looks like an ordinary pipe made of special alloys (ferrimagnetic). This model is characterized by a large working resource. It should also be noted that the magnetic field performance is much better than that of removable equipment.
The cost of magnetic filters varies, taking into account the capabilities of a particular model. The simplest design can easily be installed by the average buyer.
The question often arises about whether it is necessary to install all three types of filters for a heating system. For an autonomous design, a sump tank will be sufficient. If we are talking about a central heating system, it is recommended to install all three types of water purification filters (the liquid in the water supply contains more different impurities).
You can install cleaning equipment for home heating yourself. Nowadays, manufacturers always include instructions in the box with the selected design. If you strictly follow it, the equipment will work correctly.
The filter for the heating system plays an important role, whether it is central or autonomous heating. If you do not take care of installing the liquid purification structure, the pipes will quickly become clogged. As a result, the heating system will heat worse, and the apartment or private house will be “shrouded in cold.”
