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How to properly insulate the facade of a house with mineral wool? Insulation of walls with mineral wool Insulation of walls outside with mineral wool from the ground.

It happens that a consumer buys mineral wool, insulates the walls with his own hands and hopes for a long service life of the product, but in reality the opposite happens. The material fails very quickly, the premises begin to freeze, and the user develops a negative attitude towards the product, which he expresses on forums on the Internet.

Alas, such situations are not uncommon, but the main reason is not a violation of installation technology, operating rules or incorrect preparation of the walls, but incorrectly selected dimensions or physical characteristics. In particular, the density and thickness of the slabs. To ensure that insulating walls outside with mineral wool does not become a waste of money, a potential buyer should familiarize themselves with the recommendations regarding the parameters of the material.

It is known that the insulation in question is perfect for internal or external surfaces of residential buildings. Since in the latter case, wall insulation with mineral wool affects the entire thermal insulation system and the resource of the house, choosing its size must take into account the following factors:

climatic features of the region;
humidity;
material of the insulated surface;
maximum and minimum temperatures throughout the year.

Even if a consumer buys mineral wool with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, there is no guarantee that the purchase will perform its functions.

By the way, to achieve the best effect, you should not pay attention to roll insulation - they are cheaper and, as a rule, made from lower quality components.

In addition, the thickness of the roll is a maximum of 50 mm, which may not be enough when insulating external walls. By giving preference to large mineral wool slabs, the consumer will not go wrong.

Density indicates the weight of insulation contained in one cubic meter of volume. The higher the indicator, the higher the cost of mineral wool. This fact is due to the difference in the production technology of some slabs from others. To obtain greater density, you need to spend a lot of raw materials. This, in turn, affects the increase in manufacturer costs.

The density of mineral wool slabs varies from 20 to 250 kg/m3. m. The physical properties and technical capabilities of the material will vary greatly. To accurately determine which slab is best suited for the outer wall of a particular building, it is worth knowing that the density depends on:

the ability of the structure to withstand a certain load;
resistance to deformation;
material's resistance to compression.

However, a number of functions are not affected by density. Among them:

noise insulation properties;
vapor permeability;
slab thickness;
insulation properties.

Having complete information about the operating features of the insulated building, you can select mineral wool slabs, the size of which will increase their service life and the life of the house as a whole.

Recommendations for thickness and density of mineral wool

Taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region is crucial when choosing the size of insulation. For the external walls of houses located in areas of temperate continental climate (Moscow, Leningrad, Volgograd and other regions), it is recommended to choose slabs with a thickness of 80-100 mm. As the region moves away from a given area (continental, sharply continental, monsoon, maritime climate; subarctic, arctic zones), the thickness increases by about 10%. For example, for the Murmansk region it is advisable to take mineral wool with a thickness of 150 mm for external walls, and for Tobolsk the correct range will be from 90 to 110 mm.

Insulation with a density of up to 40 kg/cu.m. m is used only in unloaded horizontal surfaces, so it is better to ignore them. This type of wool is produced in rolls, rolled onto sheathed interfloor partitions, floors, etc. For insulation of external walls of non-residential or industrial premises, the figure varies from 50 to 75 kg/cu.m. m. If the user makes a ventilated facade, the slabs should be even denser - up to 110 kg/cu.m. m. Otherwise, the figure can reach 130-140 kg/cubic meter. m, but on the condition that the walls will be plastered later. The first option involves subsequent finishing with siding or a similar method of finishing work in order to extend the service life.

Rules for installing mineral wool slabs

The house is insulated from the outside in one of three possible ways:

"well" system;
ventilated facade;
"wet" method.

The first involves placing mineral wool slabs inside the wall, that is, between the base material (brick, foam concrete, etc.) and the external cladding (sand-lime brick, cellular concrete).

For wooden buildings, ventilated facade technology is more often used, in which a frame is placed around the perimeter of the house, and slabs of material are tightly placed inside it. Fastening is carried out using adhesives or plastic dowels with a wide head. All work is quickly done with your own hands, and without outside help.

The good thing about this method is that there is no need for an additional layer of vapor barrier. The resulting ventilation gap between the wool and the lining allows air to circulate, preventing moisture from stagnating inside the insulation, and also shifts the dew point beyond the wool. Therefore, the purchased material will not shrink, will not get wet, and will maintain the service life specified by the manufacturer.

With the wet method, insulation boards are attached to the original surface, previously leveled, after which plaster or other special solution is applied on top of them in a layer of about 2-3 cm. The method includes the following steps:

cleaning the surface, filling holes, crevices, cracks;
installation of basement cornice;
gluing thermal insulation material;
additional reinforcement - fastening dowels;
application of reinforcing mesh;
surface primer;
plastering (decorative or rough);
dyeing in the desired color.

The classic way to install insulation on wooden walls with your own hands using the type of ventilated facade is to perform the following steps:

impregnation of the walls with an antiseptic, and the places where rot appears - with special solutions;
dismantling of platbands, slopes;
drying the walls (minimum period - 1 day);
laying a layer of vapor-permeable membrane, with the smooth side of the material facing the insulation;
if the walls are perfectly smooth, it is not necessary to use a membrane;
fastening wooden slats on top of the film with screws, nails or dowels; the distance between the slats should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slabs, so that it fits inside the sheathing, and the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the latter;
laying thermal insulation boards inside the resulting sheathing;
one more additional layer - wind protection (waterproofing) - is fastened with staples of a construction stapler;
in order to create a ventilated gap on top of the bars (lathing), counter-battens are refilled so that the facing material is located at a distance of 5-7 cm from the insulation;
since the thickness of the walls has increased, you will have to purchase new platbands, slopes, etc.

If the stages of fastening mineral wool to external walls with your own hands are carried out correctly, there is no doubt that the material will fulfill the service life prescribed by the manufacturer. For most fiber insulation brands such as Ursa or RockWool, it ranges from 50 to 70 years.

The consumer must remember that slabs with the highest density will significantly make the structure heavier, so one should not assume that the most massive option is the best. Even if the choice of thermal insulation is made correctly, and insulating the walls outside with mineral wool seems like a simple task, this does not free the user from additional work, such as preparing the surface of the house or attaching water and vapor barriers.

About 30% of the heat leaves the room through uninsulated walls. External insulation of the facade will help reduce heat loss. Mineral wool can be classified as a universal insulation material. It is suitable for frame installation under siding or other panels, as well as for wet insulation under plaster. It’s not difficult to insulate the walls outside with mineral wool yourself. You just need to follow the basic rules and sequence of work.

Preparatory work includes mandatory cleaning of brick and concrete walls from old plaster, finishing materials and other debris. All protruding elements, such as hooks, antennas, and various fasteners, must be removed from the façade.

If visible cracks and potholes are identified on the facade, they begin to seal them. To do this, use various repair mixtures, cement mortar and putty. The repaired facade is coated with a primer with antifungal additives. After drying, the wall is ready for installation of insulation.

Preparing wooden walls

The quality of home insulation and the service life of wooden walls depend on correctly carried out preparatory work. Having carefully examined the wood, you can see many cracks that need to be eliminated:

First of all, you should clean the surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust.
All cracked areas are primed and left until completely absorbed.
After the primer has dried, small cracks are sealed with sealant. Large cracks in the timber are sealed with tow or felt together with sealant.
The prepared wood is treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting and the development of insects.

After the antiseptic has dried, you can begin the process of insulating the house.

Fabrication and installation of the frame

For external insulation of a brick or wooden wall of a house under siding, the manufacture of sheathing will be required. It is to its elements that the panels will be fixed. The frame is made from wooden beams or metal profiles.

If you intend to insulate the façade of a wooden house with mineral wool under the siding, then it is better to make a lath of timber yourself. The metal profile is more durable, but it freezes in cold weather. When the temperature changes, condensation forms in the profile cavity, which has a detrimental effect on the insulation and walls of the house. Some builders fill the profile grooves with insulation. But why invent something, if it’s easier to make a lath for a wooden house from timber, and leave the profile for brick walls.

If possible, the cross-section of the timber is selected greater than the thickness of the mineral wool slabs. Sometimes, to save material, frame guides are installed at the required distance from the wall of the house using racks.

When making a frame for siding, you need to remember the ventilation gap, which is approximately 40–50 mm. This can be achieved using a counter-lattice installed between the finishing panels and windproof film. For a wooden counter-lattice, a beam with a section of 50x50 mm is used. It is installed on a metal frame from a profile.

To attach the sheathing and fix the mineral wool, you will need metal hangers, the same as those used for working with drywall.

Types of frames

There are several types of frames that you can install yourself for laying mineral wool under siding:

Rules for installing a wooden frame

When making a timber frame for a wooden wall of a house, you must follow the following sequence of work:

Rules for installing a metal frame

The technology for manufacturing a metal frame is a bit similar to constructing a structure from timber. But still there are some nuances here:

Laying mineral wool

The frame, built with your own hands, is ready, you can start insulating the walls of the house:

To give the slabs stability, before laying them on the bottom of the wall, pieces of timber are nailed horizontally in the same plane as the vertical elements. Starting from the bottom of the nailed bar, mineral wool slabs are laid in the frame cells between the guides;
Each slab is installed tightly against the wall and between the frame elements. When laying two layers of mineral wool, thick slabs are laid first, and thin slabs are laid on top;
To fill the cells near window and door openings, pieces of insulation are cut. The cut fragment should fit tightly into the cell, but not stick out;
If the metal frame is mounted on hangers, the profile is mounted sideways to the wall. Then, it is possible to lay mineral wool directly into the profile groove, creating a continuous insulation surface;
When the guides are mounted on hangers or wooden posts, free space may form between them and the wall. In such cases, the first layer of insulation is laid behind the guides, and the second layer is laid out in cells.

If we talk about the required thickness of mineral wool, it is individually selected for each building. The calculations take into account the climatic conditions of the region and the thermal conductivity of the building material from which the walls of the house are built. But usually mineral wool slabs are laid with a thickness of at least 100 mm.

Wind barrier installation

After laying the mineral wool, all walls are covered with a windproof membrane. The use of vapor barrier materials is undesirable, especially if it concerns a wooden wall. The technology for insulating brick or concrete walls allows for the installation of a vapor barrier film, but for mineral wool the best option would be a diffuse membrane. Its unique structure does not allow water to pass through to the insulation. But from the side of the walls and the mineral wool itself, the membrane creates a free escape of water vapor. Thus, the insulation fibers always remain dry.

The membrane is stretched onto the wall with overlapping edges of at least 150 mm. The seams are glued together with tape. The walls, along with the insulation and membrane, are drilled and plastic umbrella dowels are inserted. Their wide hats press the entire “pie” against the wall.

A counter-lattice is mounted on top of the wind barrier to the frame elements. It will help create a ventilated space, and the siding will be attached to it.

The insulation has been laid, a windproof membrane and a counter-lattice for attaching the siding have been installed.

Insulation of walls with mineral wool under plaster

The technology for laying mineral wool under plaster differs from the frame method designed for siding:

Independently insulating the walls of a house with mineral wool should not create any special difficulties. The material is easy to process, and if the installation technology is followed, the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

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Insulating a home is the primary task of a homeowner who wants to use their home as efficiently as possible. Insulating both a wooden and a stone house from the outside will allow the developer to significantly reduce heating costs, save usable space inside the house and protect the house from the negative effects of atmospheric phenomena and precipitation.

One of the most popular and in demand methods of thermal insulation of housing is the technology of insulating the facade with mineral wool under plaster. You can familiarize yourself with the features, rules, tools and stages of installing mineral wool under plaster below.

What is mineral wool?

Unlike wool for interior work, façade mineral wool is denser and hydrophobic (repels water). Mineral wool for insulating the outside of a wooden, brick and other house is produced exclusively in the form of slabs with dimensions of 0.6x1.2 m and 0.5x1 m. The thickness of the material can be 5, 10, 15 cm. The most popular type is 10-centimeter mineral wool slabs .

Mineral wool is available in three varieties:

basalt;
fiberglass;
slag.

At the same time, basalt glass wool, due to its record low thermal conductivity, is considered the best option for insulating the outside of a wooden house.

Pros and cons of using mineral wool for external thermal insulation of a house

The popularity of insulation is primarily due to:

low thermal conductivity of the material, and therefore high thermal insulation characteristics;
excellent sound insulation;
good level of fire safety (after all, mineral wool does not support combustion);
vapor permeability (provides “breathing” of the house, which is especially important if the house is not wooden, but stone);
resistance to fungi and rodents;
relative environmental friendliness and safety of the material (harmful substances are released only when heated to more than 300 ° C);
simplicity of installation technology.

Thermal insulation of the facade using mineral wool can be done independently

As disadvantages it is worth noting:

change in the volume of insulation and the appearance of cracks in it (occurs only when there is no reinforcing layer);
If mineral wool is not treated with a hydrophobic solution, all its thermal insulation characteristics will come to naught, because it almost instantly absorbs moisture.

Materials and tools for performing work

To install insulation under plaster you will need:

guide profiles;
building level;
glue;
mineral wool;
mesh for reinforcement;
spatula and facade plaster;
dowels

Facade surface preparation

Before starting to work with insulation and plaster, it is necessary to clean the surface of the walls from oil stains and dirt and level them. According to technology, all metal elements that may rust must be removed from the walls outside. If these are strategically important metal elements, then it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen under the plaster, i.e. this immediately excludes the use of acrylic-based plaster.

The insulation material must have low thermal conductivity. Therefore, mineral wool, namely its variety with a density of 140 kg/m², is ideal.

If there are remnants of the old coating on the walls, be it paint, plaster or anything else, then insulation cannot be placed under the plaster.

Before starting insulation, it is worth using sags to mark the boundaries of the zones. Sags are strong nylon cords pulled between the reinforcement pins (these pins must then be removed, so do not drive them in too tightly), fixed at a designated point in a vertical, horizontal position and diagonally.

Sags are installed to assess the geometry of the wall

Once the sags are in place, it becomes much easier to evaluate the wall geometry. The sags must be attached so that they recede at least 1 cm from the mineral wool. After the wall is marked, you can begin installing the guide profiles.

Technology and main stages of insulation

Insulation with mineral wool and subsequent covering with plaster should be carried out in several stages.

There are three such basic stages:

Installation of thermal insulation.
Reinforcement.
Carrying out decorative finishing.

Scheme of insulation cake with installation of mineral wool

First of all, it is worth installing a base profile or strip into the wall, which will serve as a supporting guide for the first row of insulating material; in addition, it will control the gap between the bottom row of mineral wool and the wall, and also protect the mineral wool from the penetration of rodents and pests. It is also important that the profiles protect the plaster layer from mechanical deformation and tightly join the plaster with expansion joints.

The façade is insulated using mineral wool with a density of 140 kg/m². Mineral wool is fixed to the load-bearing walls of the facade using driven dowels or special glue.

After this, a strip of reinforcing mesh (width from 25 to 35 cm) should be attached directly to the mineral wool under the profile. After the reinforcement is glued to the mineral wool, the lower edge of this mesh can be wrapped onto the profile, which completely insulates and makes the insulation monolithic. The reinforcing construction mesh is attached to the mineral wool using adhesive-reinforcing plaster.

Reinforcing mesh prevents mineral wool from destruction

To decorate mineral wool slabs, you can use decorative plaster on a silicate, mineral, acrylic or silicone base. After the plaster has dried, it can be painted with any color that suits the overall color scheme of the façade.

It is extremely important that all materials used in the work are suitable for each other in all respects. For example, thermal insulation and plaster must be compatible with each other regarding the thermal expansion parameter, have the same thermal conductivity coefficient and approximately the same level of hygroscopicity. If you ignore the rules for compatibility of materials, the plaster will crack and crumble extremely quickly, and the insulation will reduce its effectiveness.

To insure against problems with the compatibility of materials, you can purchase a ready-made facade insulation system. The most popular manufacturers on the market are Roockwool, Knauf, Atlas and Ceresit. Nevertheless, it is worth remembering that even the use of ready-made facade thermal insulation does not exclude the need to follow safety rules and principles of installation of the system. Otherwise, you'll just be throwing money away.

Many owners of wooden houses consider it necessary to insulate the walls immediately after construction. However, I would like to note that quite often a mistake is made - it is not always worthwhile to cover new houses made of solid wood with insulation material, since wood itself has low thermal conductivity, and, in addition, it can create a favorable microclimate inside the rooms .

It is advisable to insulate a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool under siding if the building has already stood for many years, and after going through numerous cycles of temperature changes, the wood has lost its original qualities. This is due to the fact that numerous deep cracks appear on the logs or beams from which the house is built, under the influence of atmospheric influences.

Insulation measures are also used if the wall thickness is small and the house is located in a region with cold winters. Thermal insulation helps create a lower total thermal conductivity of enclosing structures and significantly reduce fuel costs.

To insulate the outside of a wooden house, mineral wool is increasingly being chosen, and for decorative exterior finishing, vinyl siding is being chosen, which is affordable and has a fairly long service life. In addition, the finishing material is easy to install, and if one of the panels is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

In order for the optimal microclimate to be maintained in the house after insulation of wooden walls, and the structure itself not to be damaged, it is necessary to know the specifics of the thermal insulation process, as well as the operation of the house.

You may be interested in information about what effect will occur if you perform

What does high wood moisture cause?

You need to know the answer to this question in order to take insulation measures more seriously and, without relying on various advice, but by reasoning logically, make the right decisions.

Everyone knows that wood not treated with special compounds, being constantly in a damp state, is affected by microflora (flexible, mold), rotting processes begin in it, and the material loses its strength. After a couple of years, the log in which mold has settled completely loses its thermal insulation qualities, and then completely turns into dust. Therefore, when insulating wooden walls, it is very important to choose the right materials and install them in such a way as to protect the structure from waterlogging.

The humidity of the logs before installing them in the log house should be 23 ÷ 35%. After standing for about a year under normal conditions, the walls dry out and the moisture content in the wood drops to 10 ÷ 18%, depending on the season of measurement. It should be noted that if the tree remains in a damp state for a long time, the level of which will be 20 ÷ 22%, then the formation of fungus in its structure is inevitable. In addition, such an environment is favorable for the appearance of wood-boring beetles.

There is no need to think that wood begins to become damp only because of increased air humidity, rain, snow or fog. In fact, in winter, when temperatures outside and inside the house differ, and indoor humidity is many times higher than outside, wood absorbs it into its structure. Absorbing moisture from the inside, the tree, passing through the joints between the logs and micropores, releases it outside. The lower the temperature outside and the higher the temperature in the house, the more moisture the wood passes through its structure. This process is said to mean that the material “breathes.”

Under no circumstances should such a natural balance be disturbed. It is unacceptable to carry out insulation in such a way that water vapor is blocked from escaping from the wood into the atmosphere. In addition, insulation also plays a role in shifting the “dew point” - it will be moved outside the wooden wall and will fall on the thickness of the thermal insulation material. This will also significantly reduce the likelihood of wooden walls becoming waterlogged.

Materials for insulating wooden walls

So, in order not to disturb the normal temperature balance and prevent moisture from stagnating inside the logs, it is very important to follow the correct insulation technology and select suitable materials.

The most important condition is a vapor-permeable membrane

The most important element of the insulation system of a wooden house is a windproof diffuse membrane.

In order not to disturb the natural balance of humidity during insulation, it is necessary to create normal conditions for the operation of the structure, avoiding obstacles to the escape of water vapor to the outside.

Prices for windproof diffuse membrane

windproof diffuse membrane

Many builders, doing work “not for themselves,” do not really think about the durability of the insulated house, and cover the wooden wall with a vapor barrier film, which absolutely unacceptable. Experts who study the construction physics of wooden housing construction and building materials advise completely abandoning vapor barrier material when insulating wooden buildings in which it is planned to live all year round. Instead, a windproof diffuse membrane should be used, which is fixed to the outside of the insulation. This coating is hydrophobic - water that gets on it simply rolls off, but is never absorbed into the fibers. That is, even if Water will seep under the siding layer and will not be able to get into the mineral wool layer, and even more so into the wooden walls.

At the same time, the unique structure of such a membrane does not at all prevent the free release of water vapor outward, from the walls and insulating layer into the atmosphere. Thus, the walls of the house continue to “breathe”, spontaneously leveling the moisture balance.

The insulation itself needs wind protection - and this membrane fully copes with this task, preventing the material fibers from weathering and cold air flows from penetrating into its thickness.

Schematic - the structure of an insulating “pie” on a wooden wall

A ventilation gap left between the windbreak vapor permeable film and finishing material, will allow air to circulate freely, which will constantly dry the drops of condensate that appear on the surface of the membrane.

The optimal insulation is mineral wool

When externally insulating wooden houses, synthetic thermal insulation materials - polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam, etc. - are completely excluded. It is also necessary to immediately get away from any foil-coated materials. All of the listed insulation materials have vapor barrier properties, which, as already mentioned, is completely unacceptable.

You should not choose artificial sprayed materials, such as polyurethane foam, for insulating a wooden house, since it also completely seals the surface and does not allow the wood to “breathe.” Such insulation will lead to rot and mold inside the house, which is very dangerous not only for the entire structure, but also for the health of the residents.

The most acceptable option for such work is mineral wool, but not just any one either. It can be made from different materials: blast furnace slag (slag wool), molten glass waste and sand (glass wool), and from volcanic gabbro-basalt rocks (stone or basalt wool).

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

For insulating a wooden house, the most suitable option is stone wool, which has low hygroscopicity, excellent thermal insulation properties, suitable density and sufficiently high compressive strength.

Main technical and operational characteristics of this material:

Thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/m×°K.
Moisture absorption– no more than 2% of the volume (for some species – significantly less )
The density of basalt mats can vary from 30 to 400 kg/m³, as semi-rigid and rigid slabs, as well as mineral felt mats, are produced.
The compressive strength ranges from 5 to 80 kPa, depending on the type of material and its density.
Basalt insulation is a breathable material, and this is one of the main conditions for insulating wooden structures.
The most important quality, especially for use in wooden construction, is the non-flammability of the material.

For external insulation of a house, it is recommended to choose semi-rigid heat insulation mats, the density of which varies from 80 to 150 kg/m³. They are usually sized 600×1200 or 500×1000 mm and are available in a certain range of thicknesses. Rolled material is easier to install, but its density and strength are lower; it can sag over time, even if it is properly secured to the wall.

For thermal insulation of external work on the walls of a wooden house, you can also use glass wool, but the efficiency and durability of such insulation will be significantly lower.

But slag wool should be immediately, categorically excluded. Don’t be fooled by its low price - this one has a higher thermal conductivity coefficient and absorbs moisture well. Increased moisture absorption during operation it leads to an increase in thermal conductivity, that is, the material sharply loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, the increased acidity of slag wool is absolutely not beneficial for natural wood.

Experts recommend using environmentally friendly hemp or linen mats for internal and external insulation, which have low thermal conductivity, good vapor permeability and sufficiently high resistance to moisture. But the biggest disadvantage of these materials is their high cost.

You may be interested in information about which one to choose for timber

Required thickness of insulation for a wooden house

The thickness of the insulation is selected depending on the thickness of the walls and the average winter temperatures of the region where the house is built. Most often, the heat insulator is mounted in two layers, the first of which is 100 and the second is 50 mm. If necessary, the thickness can be increased, but for this you will have to secure another row of sheathing.

However, it would be a good idea to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulating layer in order to prevent low insulation efficiency or, conversely, not to spend extra money on excessive thermal insulation that is unnecessary in specific conditions. Performing the calculation is not that difficult.

The principle boils down to the fact that the total thermal resistance of a multilayer wall structure should not be lower than R(m²×° WITH/W), calculated by experts for this region.

To simplify perception, the values of this indicator are indicated on the proposed map of Russia. You should select the upper value for walls (indicated by purple numbers).

Since the wall structure is multilayer, its total thermal resistance will be equal to the sum of the resistance of each layer, which affects the insulating qualities of the house.

R = R1 + R2 + R3 …

Well, the thermal resistance of each layer is expressed by the formula:

Rn = Hn / λn

Hn— layer thickness.

λn— coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material.

When insulating a wooden building, these layers can be:

1 – the wooden frame itself. Please note that the thickness of a log house made of round timber is assumed to be slightly smaller than when using rectangular timber. This should be taken into account when taking measurements.

2 – interior decoration, if there is one, of course. In wooden houses, the walls can remain unfinished inside, covered with natural lining, MDF lining, plywood, OSB, sometimes they use plasterboard for painting and wallpapering.

3 - The layer of external insulation is the value that needs to be found.

There may be more complex “pies”, and each layer has its own calculation. But usually they try not to “spoil” natural wooden walls from the inside with synthetic materials in order to preserve the natural advantages of wood.

The diagram also shows:

4 — vapor permeable hydrophobic windproof membrane.

5 – frame details (lathing).

6 – siding. The siding cladding is separated from the insulation by a ventilated air gap (7). Thus, no matter what material the panels are made of, they do not participate in the overall thermal insulation of the wall and are not taken into account.

Thus, in order to calculate the required insulation layer, you need to know the thickness of each layer and its thermal conductivity coefficient.

As a result, the calculation formula will look like this:

Well = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3… ) × λу

The value of thermal conductivity coefficients of materials is easy to find in reference books, and this parameter is for the selected type of mineral wool ( λу) must be indicated on the packaging or in the accompanying documentation.

For ease of calculation, we recommend using the built-in calculator, specially programmed for natural wooden walls. It provides the opportunity to specify, in addition to the wall itself, two more layers of finishing made from natural materials.

Proper home insulation is one of the most important issues for residents of regions with harsh climates. High-quality thermal insulation significantly reduces the cost of heat and electricity, and allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the warm season.

If the need for home insulation is beyond doubt, it is worth figuring out what material will be used. Next, the method of insulation is determined: outside or inside. Depending on the selected parameters, you can judge the quality of the work.

External insulation involves installing insulating material along the outer perimeter of the house. Internal - along the inner surface of the walls.

Advantages of the first method:

Additional protection of walls from exposure to adverse weather conditions.
Extending the life of walls.
Dew point shifts outward. The walls are no longer constantly wet and are not covered with condensation.
Heating costs are reduced, but the interior space of the house is not reduced.
A soundproofing layer is created that prevents the penetration of sounds from the street.
It is possible to change the appearance of the house thanks to a wide variety of finishing materials.

Among the shortcomings are the following points:

Insulation materials are not cheap. All the work will cost more than insulating the interior surface of the house.
The frequency of work depends on weather conditions. During rain or sub-zero temperatures, work must stop.

Thermal insulation inside the house is carried out only in some cases. For example, if there is no access to the outer surface of the walls. This is possible on high-rise buildings. Another option is that you cannot or do not want to change the appearance of the house.

Insulation from inside the house

Consists of small fibers that are bound together by resins. Some experts do not recommend using this insulation inside a home. The recommendation is based on the fact that resins emit substances hazardous to humans.

However, as a result of research on this topic, it was proven that the amount of substances released is so small that the harm caused to the human body is so negligible that it should not be taken into account against the background of other sources of pollution.

The insulation retains heat well due to the large amount of air contained between the fibers. Mineral wool is capable of accumulating water in the composition, after which the thermal insulation characteristics are noticeably reduced. This happens because the liquid displaces the water.

Additional Information: If the insulation is done correctly, the material will last a long time and the quality will remain at the highest level. In places where insulation will be used, there must be high-quality ventilation.

Insulation of the internal surface of the house with mineral wool is usually carried out if it is not possible to carry out work on the outside of the house. The material will contribute to long-term heat retention in the home.

Advantages of internal insulation:

There is no need to use special tools or climbing equipment if the apartment is on the upper floors.
Work is carried out at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions.
It is possible to combine insulation with interior decoration. This results in savings on materials.
The amount spent on work is less compared to external insulation.

Disadvantages of internal insulation:

The dew point (the place where warm and cold air converge) moves indoors. This contributes to freezing of the walls. Condensation may form inside this surface. Consequences: the appearance of fungus, mold, constant moisture in the walls, decreased efficiency of thermal insulation.
A frozen wall completely loses its ability to retain heat. The room will cool down and heat up faster than with external insulation.
The humidity in the room increases. This is dangerous to human health. To resume normal gas exchange, it is necessary to ventilate the rooms frequently. This will increase heating costs.
The usable area of the apartment will decrease.
You will have to dismantle all elements of the interior decoration of the room.

Insulation with mineral wool indoors

Before starting insulation work, it is necessary to carry out preparations. This stage determines how well the entire further process will be completed.

Stages of preparatory work:

clean the walls of all decorative elements, remove finishing elements;
clean bare walls from dirt and dust;
Smooth out significant unevenness using coarse sandpaper;
seal cracks with polyurethane foam or building mixtures;
Treat the surface of the walls with solutions that prevent the formation of mold and mildew.

Small irregularities can be masked during the work process. You shouldn't pay attention to them.

Wall insulation

Initially, a frame is made that will be fixed to the wall. It is made of metal or wood, it all depends on the final finishing material. Metal elements are used when covering with plasterboard, wooden - if chipboard. The width of the bars should not exceed 40–50 mm, their depth is equal to the thickness of the mineral wool. The distance between the bars is 3–4 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Important! Be sure to install frame elements in the corners.

Mineral wool is an elastic material. It does not need to be trampled heavily into the space between the frame elements.

The roll is unwound and the required length is measured. Leave a margin of about 10 cm so that no voids form after applying the material.

Can be secured using drywall staples. If sheet packaging of insulation is used, it is installed on horizontal frame elements. The top sheets should not put strong pressure on the bottom sheets.

After laying and securing the material over the entire surface, the vapor barrier layer is installed. If a foil-based composition is chosen, there is no need to leave a partition between the insulation and the vapor barrier. When purchasing a vapor barrier, it should be placed on the wall and secured with construction tape or glue. Be sure to overlap and not butt.

Mineral wool is an excellent soundproofing material. You don’t have to use additional sound insulation; this function will be performed by insulation. After all activities have been completed, the walls are covered with finishing elements.

Floor insulation

Installation can be done on a wooden surface or under a screed. In the first case, the flooring must be completely dismantled.

Only the lags remain. It is advisable to determine in advance the condition of the surface that will have to be dismantled.

If the elements are suitable for recycling, dismantling is carried out carefully so as not to damage the elements.

The process of insulating a wooden floor:

Inspect the joists and determine which ones need to be replaced.
Impregnate new and old elements with solutions against mold and mildew. Moving elements must be immobilized with wedges or spacers made of wood or other suitable composition.
Attach rough boards to the lower parts of the floor.
Place a vapor barrier layer on the rough boards. An overlap of at least 10 cm is made on the beams and the wall. For this, you can use a vapor barrier membrane covered with a layer of aluminum. The metal surface is laid on top. This is a budget option. An expensive but effective analogue is a vapor barrier membrane consisting of several layers. There should be no ventilation gaps during installation. The canvas is secured with metallized tape. The parts of the membrane are overlapped and connected to each other with the same tape.
Place mineral wool on top. Gaps should not be allowed to appear between the subfloor and the mineral wool; everything must be tight.
The top layer is laid so as to cover the joints of the bottom one. The fibers should not be crushed so as not to reduce performance characteristics.
The sheets are covered with waterproofing according to the same principle as vapor barrier.
There should be about a 5mm gap between the top membrane and the floor. The finished floor is laid on additional fastening joists.

Work on insulating the floor under the screed begins with cleaning the working surface from dirt and dust. Next, all cracks and chips are repaired. It is advisable to completely eliminate the irregularities. This is necessary so that the mineral wool adheres evenly to the working surface.

To level, pour 10 cm of crushed stone or expanded clay and compact. Sprinkle a small amount of sand on top. Next, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, work continues in accordance with the instructions above.

Roof insulation

The easiest way to insulate a roof is by placing the insulation between the rafters.

The work proceeds according to the following algorithm:

Using a building level, the lower level of the rafters is measured. It should be even throughout the entire frame. If there are deviations, they should be equalized.
A waterproofing film is laid on the rafters if it was not laid during installation of the roofing. The mineral wool is cut into pieces of the required size. The elements will be held in place due to the expansion of the insulation, so cut the material 2–3 cm wider than the distance between the beams. If 2 layers are laid, the joints should not match.
The vapor barrier is adjusted. Place the membrane on top of the insulation. Fix with a construction stapler.
Surface covering. Typically plywood sheets or boards are used.

If the insulation falls out of the space between the rafters, you can secure them using strong fishing line. It stretches along the entire length and is secured in a convenient way.

External insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool insulation work is carried out at temperatures from 5 to 25 o C.

The work is performed according to the following algorithm:

Preparing the walls. It is imperative that the walls become perpendicular to the horizon and, accordingly, parallel to each other. The deviation should not exceed 15 mm per floor. If there are cracks or chips, they must be covered with building mixtures. A wall that is too broken can first be primed and plastered using reinforcing mesh.

Important! Before starting insulation work, if the walls were leveled with plaster, at least a week should pass for the mixture to completely dry.

Before sheathing with mineral wool, a metal profile should be secured around the entire perimeter of the house. This is needed to protect against rodents and moisture. In addition, the thermal insulation material will not be deformed. Fixed with dowels at a height of 40–60 cm from the ground.
The insulation is installed in 2 stages:
- The adhesive must be suitable for outdoor use. Start installation from the bottom left corner. The mixture is applied to one side of the material: 4 blots in the corners and 1 in the center, or over the entire surface of the sheet. The board is glued to the surface of the house. All elements are applied tightly to one another. If several layers are laid down, the joints must not coincide.
- The material is fixed with dowels. Start work after the glue has completely dried. Usually a day is enough, but the exact hardening time can be seen on the glue package. One slab is fixed with no more than 8 dowels. Fasteners are required in the corners close to the joints and add a few in the center. To install a dowel, use a punch to make a hole 2 cm larger than the length of the dowel. Next the dowel is driven in.

Mineral wool is reinforced. This step is necessary for finishing the wall for plaster. Hydrophobic adhesive and fiberglass mesh are used. First, glue is applied, then the mesh is applied. The first step is to work on the corners.
To remove minor differences, rough plastering of the walls is performed. After hardening, several layers of paint are applied.

If you plan to install siding, plastering is not carried out. When installing this element, be sure to leave a gap for ventilation of the facade.

Common mistakes when insulating the outside walls of a house:

Temperature mismatch. Many people work in extreme heat or cold weather. This is prohibited; the quality of the material is significantly reduced.
Poor quality of wall preparation. The first stage is the most important. If the walls are not prepared well enough, after a while many nuances that have not been eliminated will become apparent.
No starting bar. The element is required; it performs many useful functions. Without it, the insulation will quickly become unusable or move down.
Incorrect installation of slabs. Be sure to secure them in a checkerboard pattern.
Incorrect application of glue. The sheet may become deformed if the adhesive is applied incorrectly.
Incorrect placement of insulation sheets.

If you carry out the work in accordance with the described plan, there should not be any troubles in the future. It is worth taking into account possible errors so that the fastening of the material is reliable and the quality of work is as high as possible.