Plumbing

How to build a greenhouse with a pitched and gable roof. A lean-to wall greenhouse: how to build it yourself, as well as photos, videos and drawings A do-it-yourself lean-to greenhouse

A wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse is an optimal and very economical solution for areas with a small area, where every square meter requires the most efficient use. This design is inexpensive in its arrangement, easy to install and practical in terms of its operation. On average, with a competent approach, correct calculations and a correctly drawn up drawing, it takes a few days to build a wall-mounted greenhouse with your own hands. Let's consider one of the possible options for constructing a simple wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof.

Lean greenhouse (wall-mounted): preparation for construction

Preparation for the construction of a lean-to wall greenhouse begins with determining its future location. Typically, such extensions are placed near a free, dry, necessarily southern (!) wall of a country house made of brick or stone. Take this nuance into account, since it is in this well-lit place that summer residents often plant heat-loving perennial vines, which, unfortunately, will have to be parted with before building a wall building. Otherwise, the plants will very quickly entwine the transparent walls of the structure and completely block the access of sunlight to its space.

It is undesirable to erect massive wall structures near small wooden country houses. As practice shows, light residential buildings are rarely able to withstand the additional loads created by greenhouse extensions, which over time can lead to damage to their structural elements.

Having decided how and where to install the greenhouse correctly, you can proceed to developing its drawing. Even if you decide to use ready-made versions of drawings and projects, our dacha portal still recommends that you carefully double-check all the data and independently make all calculations tailored specifically to your case. Any, at first glance, insignificant errors in the drawing can not only significantly increase the cost of building a wall-mounted greenhouse, but also, over time, cause its partial, or even complete destruction.

When developing a drawing of your future cultivation building, pay attention not only to the design of the frame, but also to the internal arrangement. Calculate the number of racks and tables, their shape and configuration, width and length - taking into account the characteristics of the crops that you plan to grow.

In addition, at the preparatory stage it will be necessary to decide on the type of future structure.

As you know, lean-to greenhouses are:

– ground – installed on the foundation;
– in-depth, i.e. located in the pit.

The ground version is preferable for spring and summer use, while in-depth extensions are recommended if you plan to use them not only in the warm season, but also in winter.

It is important to think about the type of materials used for construction and accurately calculate their quantity, adding a small reserve for unforeseen cases. The most inexpensive and easiest to build option is a wall-mounted, lean-to greenhouse with a film covering and a wooden frame. In this publication we will look at this simple solution, available to most novice summer house builders.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall greenhouse: materials and stages of work

So, to build a structure similar to the one attached in the proposed drawings and videos, you will need the following materials and tools:

– lumber for arranging the rear (high) and front (low) walls, as well as for the manufacture of rafters, braces, crossbars, doors and ventilation windows;
– durable film coating;
– materials for making the foundation;
– sledgehammer, hammer, tape measure, carpenter’s square;
– hand and miter saw, grinder, drill, screwdriver;
– consumables and accessories (galvanized nails, galvanized screws and plates, staples, reinforced building corners, hinges, etc.);
– safety glasses and durable gloves.

The amount of lumber is calculated based on the size of the house wall and the desired dimensions of the future extension. When purchasing them, it is very important to pay attention to the quality of the wood - it should not be damp, dry or have traces of defects. It is also necessary that the purchased materials be treated with special compounds that prevent rotting and destruction of the wood (in extreme cases, the processing of wooden elements can be carried out independently).

If you want your wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof to serve for many years without losing its stability and tightness, build it on a foundation. The most popular types of supporting structures for light structures are columnar and strip foundations - simple and quite economical in their arrangement. (We previously talked about how foundations for country houses are laid out in previous publications.)

Once the foundation is completely ready, you can begin building the greenhouse. In its most general form, the assembly algorithm for this structure includes the following points, namely:

– assembly of the rectangular base, its fastening to the foundation;
– assembly of a low (front) wall (to enhance the rigidity of the structure, horizontal crossbars of varying heights are placed in the center of its blocks, as shown in the figures);
– assembly of a high (rear) wall adjacent to the southern wall of the house (cross members are also used to give strength to this structure);
– trimming the upper part of the ridge at the desired angle (in the proposed version – along, at an angle of 30°);
– trimming the ends of the rafters (the upper ends, which will be attached to the ridge, in the presented case are cut at an angle of 30°, the lower ends - at an angle of 60°);
– fastening the assembled high wall and ridge to the base near the southern wall of the house (usually done using special brackets and braces);
– installation of the front low wall on the base;
– installation of rafters (in this version, the rafters are attached with their upper end to the ridge, cut at an angle of 30°, using the “half-tree insertion” method, however, many summer residents also use so-called “brackets” made of galvanized roofing or plywood to fasten the rafters - this the solution is simpler);

– arrangement of the side wall and installation of the door to the greenhouse at its eastern end (shown in the figure);

– arrangement of the side wall at the western end of the structure;

– arrangement of a ventilation window (shown in the figure);

– processing/grinding of rough surfaces of wooden elements with sandpaper, a sander or other tools;

– treating the installed frame with antiseptic drugs, drying oil or other anti-rotting agents, or painting the frame (these procedures are performed if necessary);

– attaching a film covering (another popular option is covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate).

For more reliable fixation, the film is additionally secured with slats on the outside of the structure. In the process of assembling all structural elements, it is extremely important to monitor the accuracy of all measurements taken - for this purpose, use the tools listed above (carpentry squares, plumb lines, levels) and equipment.

After the frame of the structure has been erected and the covering material (film, polycarbonate) has been securely fixed to it, they proceed to arranging the interior space of the finished lean-to greenhouse and checking it for leaks. If necessary, the resulting structure can be additionally insulated by treating the junctions of the frame with the wall, joints and seams in the foundation and roof with polyurethane foam.

Single-slope wall greenhouse - My Dacha - information site for summer residents, gardeners and gardeners

Wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse. How to build a wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof with your own hands?

How to install a wall greenhouse

In most cases, gardeners prefer free-standing greenhouses, but more recently the wall-mounted greenhouse has begun to gain popularity. This option for constructing a greenhouse allows you to rationally use the territory of a suburban area.

Scheme of a wall-mounted greenhouse.

A vegetable lover can independently carry out a competent layout of such a greenhouse for a country plot, and also significantly reduce construction costs. The main advantages of such a structure include the expansion of residential space. And thanks to polycarbonate glazing, it will be possible to grow vegetables in it or equip it as a winter garden.

Design features

Before you begin to consider the design features of greenhouses of this type, you need to familiarize yourself with the options for their design:

Option number 1. Single pitch roof. Such greenhouse structures are the easiest to install and heat.
Option number 2. Gable roof. In this case, the design allows you to maximize the space.
Option number 3. Roof with individual design. If the zone of the heated greenhouse has an arbitrary shape, then the owner of a suburban area will be able to create not just a bed structure, but an entire winter garden on the premises. This greenhouse will be an ideal place for rest and relaxation.

Scheme of a film wall greenhouse.

Wall-mounted greenhouses have one feature - they are connected to one of the walls of a residential building or outbuilding. Experts recommend installing them on the south side. This will significantly reduce the volume of building material used and save on heating equipment. Overall dimensions will directly depend on the surface size of the adjacent wall.

Install boiler equipment that matches the dimensions of the greenhouse structure.
Install the greenhouse in specially dug trenches. This option involves burying the walls deep into the ground. In fact, those around you will only see a transparent roof with several end windows.
Use stone and high-quality polycarbonate for the construction of adjacent wall surfaces.

According to experienced gardeners, it would be more advisable to install a lean-to wall greenhouse on your suburban area. Due to its shape, the roof surface will not be loaded with the weight of natural precipitation. All this will affect the lighting inside the building as a whole. It should be noted that due to the passage of the sun's rays at an angle of 90º, the light will be scattered evenly.

Foundation construction

If the owner of the site has decided on the choice of place to build a greenhouse structure, it is necessary to begin the actual construction. You should start from the foundation. The foundation is the most important part of any building. By constructing the foundation, it will be possible to maintain a favorable microclimate inside the building and create support for load-bearing beams.

Scheme of types of greenhouses.

If you have decided to purchase a ready-made structure, it is worth noting that many manufacturers prefer to sell a foundation made of metal. But any plant lover in 90% of cases will prefer a standard concrete strip base. To properly perform such a foundation arrangement, you need:

Take measurements and make markings based on them.
After the markings have been made, you need to install wooden pegs at future corners and draw a rope.
Next they are digging a pit. The depth of the foundation will depend on soil freezing and climate conditions. It will be necessary to deepen the strip laying by at least half a meter. Experienced builders assure that installing a foundation 1 m below ground level allows you to save more than 10% of heat during the cold season.
Pillars are placed in the corners of the pit - this is the foundation. If the supporting structure is made of wood, then the part of it immersed in the ground is either burned or carefully treated with resin. This will extend the life of the “product”.

Creating a frame for a lean-to wall greenhouse

Single-pitched insulated buildings for growing vegetables and fruits require all parts to be highly resistant to the influence of external factors. Among other things, they must be light in weight and provide good illumination by transmitting light.

Wood is used specifically to create walls. This is due to ease of installation and accessibility. In some cases, plastic, aluminum or steel frames are used.

Scheme of recuperative heating of a wall-mounted greenhouse.

If we talk about the shape of the roof, it has a number of advantages:

A pitched roof is easy to work with. Installation takes little time and can be done on your own.
Wood, stone, building mixture or metal will be consumed several times less.
You can strengthen the structure against the load produced by the wind.
You can install a water drainage system on one side.

Attention! Do not forget that installation requires maintaining a certain angle of the slope. It can be calculated using a mathematical formula. This indicator depends on the type of coating and climatic conditions of the natural area. The range of roof slope angles varies from 5 to 30 degrees.

The simplest design is to install a slope from the top of the house wall to the ground at an angle of more than 30 degrees.

Installation of a wooden frame

The installation of a wall-mounted greenhouse begins with the installation of frame arches on the surface of the foundation. Then the crossbars and the lower bed are placed on them. All elements are secured using metal brackets, screws, nails, special corners or self-tapping screws. After this, slopes are installed.

If we are talking about creating a metal frame, then the fasteners should be the same.

Before installation, it is necessary to determine how the entrance to the room will be made: from a residential building or from the outside. In order to enter it from the outside, you will need to install a door frame. The surface of the first beam can be used as a jamb. But for the transverse element you will need to install a pole of the required height. After this, all the jambs are connected. Then you need to select a groove that will take into account the type of door opening. If you do the installation yourself, then all the cracks will need to be carefully caulked.

Polycarbonate cover

Polycarbonate greenhouses have become much more popular than glass ones recently. This is due to the fact that glass weighs much more than polymer. In addition, glass surfaces are highly fragile. Many gardeners prefer cellular polycarbonate, which is considered the best option due to its light transmittance and excellent thermal insulation qualities.

You should start covering the frame base by cutting the material “to size”. To do this, use a meter or ruler to measure the length and width of the entire room. To secure the sheet material, you will need to drill holes in it at a distance of at least 4 cm from the edge.

If the distance from the edge is slightly less than the length stated above, the sheet may simply crack.

To prevent heat from escaping from the room, you will need to seal all the holes with special tape. Advice: to improve the properties of the room, you will need to glue the bottom with perforated tape and cover the top with solid aluminum. When using polycarbonate, it is necessary to purchase a sufficient number of thermal washers and rubberized gaskets.

Necessary tools and materials for work

For self-construction, you need to prepare the following tools and building materials:

polycarbonate sheets;
material for creating the frame (metal or wood);
building mixture;
frame resin;
fastenings (nails, screws, construction clips, etc.);
hammer;
ruler or meter;
screwdriver;
building level;
rubber washers.

It is also worth taking care of preparing materials for decorating the interior space of the room.

A well-organized greenhouse will be the optimal area for growing cultivated plants and flowers. And through heating, ventilation and the creation of an automatic irrigation system, it will be possible to significantly increase productivity.

DIY wall greenhouse

How to build a wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouse

In practice, summer residents prefer to bring greenhouse structures onto the site as a separate structure. This solution requires sufficient space. If there is an acute shortage of free space, a lean-to wall greenhouse will make it possible to use the territory of a personal plot more efficiently. It’s not at all difficult to build such a structure yourself, using the sketches and recommendations provided by our experts.

Advantages of greenhouses adjacent to the wall.

The use of wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouses in gardening has a number of advantages that are needlessly underestimated by summer residents. These include the following criteria:

Rational use of land adjacent to a house or outbuilding.
The frame of the structure requires less building materials, due to the capital support of the house;
Structural stability. One of the sides must rest on a solid wall;
The ability to install electricity and water supply into a lean-to greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house without any special material costs;
Reduced energy consumption for heating during year-round use;
Quick installation and ease of assembly if all necessary materials are available;

The only drawback of a wall-type polycarbonate greenhouse is the small usable area allocated for the cultivation of vegetable crops. Which reduces the number of tall varieties of tomatoes and cucumbers grown. However, in such a structure it is possible to prepare seedlings for subsequent planting in the ground and more spacious structures that protect the soil from unpredictable weather conditions.

Planning and organization of construction.

Before you build a wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse near your home, you will need to consider three main issues:

Where will the building be located?
What type will it be;
What building materials will be used in its construction.

The issue of the location of the future structure is a subtle nuance that cannot be ignored. Since plants cultivated in greenhouses, including wall-mounted ones, require lighting, they are placed in the most illuminated places in the garden. In our case, this will be the wall of the house facing south. This way it is possible to provide vegetables with maximum light conditions during the day.

The wall against which the building for vegetables will be covered with polycarbonate or film should not be wet. She should not have climbing plants. Perennial vines located next to a wall-mounted greenhouse can, in a short period of time, entwine the structure and block natural sunlight for the vegetables.

What kind of greenhouse will be next to the wall is the next question that you need to decide for yourself. When choosing a building design, be guided by the following criteria:

The interior space should be illuminated as much as possible;
The greenhouse must have enough usable area;
The design must retain heat for as long as possible;
Availability of natural ventilation;
Convenience and ease of maintenance.

Most of these criteria are best met by lean-to greenhouses adjacent to the wall, buried in the ground. A simple pitched roof is easy to maintain. It transmits the maximum amount of light and evenly disperses the sun's rays. Thanks to the rectilinear design located at an angle, precipitation will flow freely along the roofing material.

When building a frame in the rafter part of a wall-mounted greenhouse, it is easy to provide places for vents that will act as natural ventilation. The rectangular shape with a pitched roof allows for maximum use of the interior space. The option of installing a greenhouse in a trench will make it possible to retain heat for a long time and reduce heating costs.

To construct the frame of a protected ground structure, resting on one side against the wall of a house, lumber is most often used. Today this is the most affordable material for building greenhouses. However, to protect it from mold, mildew and rot, it will be necessary to treat it with deep penetration antiseptics.

The choice of base for a wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouse depends on the choice of construction option. For a recessed one, you will have to organize a foundation made of brick or concrete. If the structure is planned to be used from spring to autumn, then it will be enough to organize a support made of timber. We wrote how to do this in our recent article. Next, we will describe the process of constructing a ground frame that can be installed on any base.

Preparation of materials and tools.

As mentioned above, the wooden structure of a greenhouse attached to the wall is the best option in terms of budget savings and ease of installation. For our structure you will need:

Beam with a section of 100x100mm;
Beam with a section of 50x100mm;
Door hinges 2 pieces;
Window hinges 2 pieces;
Galvanized or phosphated self-tapping screws;
Bolts or studs for tightening the harness;
Galvanized corners to strengthen the structure;
Valves 2 pieces;
Polycarbonate;
Thermal washers for fastening the polymer coating.

Stages of construction of a greenhouse adjacent to the wall.

The stage of bringing out the dimensions of the foundation of a wall-mounted greenhouse onto a plane.

At the first stage of construction of the wall frame, it will be necessary to place the markings of the structure on a plane adjacent to the house. This will require:

Clear the surface of all excess;
Remove the fertile layer of soil;
Using a tape measure, cast-offs and twine, mark the perimeter of the base;
Dig a trench of the required depth for pouring the foundation or laying timber frame.
After which it is necessary to prepare a reliable foundation.

You can learn how to make a timber foundation for a wall-mounted greenhouse here.

After a concrete base has been prepared for a lean-to wall greenhouse, you will still need to lay a wooden frame made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100mm on it. Corner connections of the beds are made in a paw or in a quarter. You can secure the beams together with staples or pins. The strapping is fixed to the concrete strip using anchor bolts.

Stage of assembling the front and back walls of the greenhouse.

At this stage of the construction of our lean-to greenhouse made of polycarbonate, adjacent to the wall of the house, two walls are assembled: front and rear. For this we need a beam with a cross section of 50x100 mm. From it you need to make:

2 upper beds and 2 lower beds 508 cm long;
12 vertical crossbars 152.4 cm high for the front wall;
12 vertical crossbars 252 cm high for the rear, adjacent wall;
22 horizontal crossbars 42 cm long (11 for each wall);

All crossbars intended for the manufacture of the wall part of the greenhouse frame will need to be cut on one side by 30°. This will be the angle of the roof slope.

Now we assemble the small (front) frame. We place short vertical crossbars between the upper and lower legs. The distance between them should be 42 cm. Using a square, we set the correct right angles at the frame. These elements are attached using reinforcing corners and self-tapping screws. In order to increase the rigidity of the structure, short horizontal crossbars are installed between the vertical crossbars.

The tall, rear frame of a wall-mounted greenhouse is assembled in a similar way, with a slight nuance. To provide the greenhouse frame with the proper angle of the roof slope, it will be necessary to cut the upper ends of the long crossbars at an angle of 30°, onto which the upper beam will be placed at the same angle.

Stage of installation of frames and rafter system.

After preparing the high and low walls of the greenhouse, they are installed on the prepared frame made of wooden beams. The high frame of the frame is mounted close to the south wall of the house. Screw connections are used for fastening. All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam to reduce heat loss during operation of the wall-mounted greenhouse. The small frame is mounted on the harness in a similar way. Using a square or plumb line, set a right angle and fix the frame with screws to the base and wooden boards to the back wall.

To install the roof, you will need to make 12 rafters from 50x100mm timber. To accurately connect the rafters to the wall of the house and to the upper beam of the front frame of the greenhouse, their ends must be cut at an angle. For the end adjacent to the wall, this angle should be 30°; for the opposite end it should be 60°. After that, the rafters are laid on the upper beams of the frames and secured with self-tapping screws.

To strengthen the rafter system, 11 crossbars 42 cm long are installed between the rafters in the center. The same number of crossbars will be required to arrange the ridge. All crossbars are fixed with reinforcing galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

Side wall assembly stage.

To assemble the side walls, we will need to prepare the following elements:

2 beams 50x100mm, length 236 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 196 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 69 cm;
2 jibs 163 cm long;
3 crossbars 61 cm each;
4 crossbars 26 cm each.

The assembly of the side faces of the wall-mounted greenhouse structure is carried out according to the presented sketch.

The stage of assembling and installing doors and windows.

We prepare elements for the door:

3 cross beams 42.5 cm each;
2 vertical beams 187.3 cm each.

We assemble the frame according to the sketch and hang it on the hinges.

For one window we prepare:

2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 34.5 cm each;
2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 97.2 cm each.

We assemble the window according to the sketch using self-tapping screws and corners. We place them between the rafters and fix them on hinges to the ridge crossbar. To automate the ventilation process in a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can use special pusher devices that lift the windows when the temperature inside the room rises.

Installation stage of polycarbonate coating.

The stage that completes the construction of a wall-type greenhouse, covering it with cellular polycarbonate. This material was not chosen by chance. The polymer has proven itself well among plant growers in all regions. It has excellent light transmission characteristics, good thermal insulation, high impact resistance and a long service life. In addition, its use contributes to the formation of the most favorable microclimate for vegetable crops.

Before covering a lean-to wall greenhouse with cellular polycarbonate, it must be cut correctly. When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the position of the channels. It is unacceptable to place them horizontally to the ground. All sheets are laid in channels perpendicular to the ground. This will protect the material from deformation and destruction during frosts, when condensation will form in the voids.

It is necessary to attach polycarbonate to the frame of the greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house using thermal washers with self-tapping screws and joining profiles. When fixing the roofing material, do not forget to drill holes for thermal washers with a margin of 2 mm. This will avoid deformation of the sheets during thermal expansion/contraction.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall polycarbonate greenhouse: sketches and construction stages

A do-it-yourself lean-to wall polycarbonate greenhouse is a good alternative for small areas. The main stages of building a wall-mounted greenhouse with sketches and explanations.

Lean greenhouse (wall-mounted): preparation for construction

In addition, at the preparatory stage it will be necessary to decide on the type of future structure.

As you know, lean-to greenhouses are:

- ground - installed on the foundation;
- in-depth, i.e. located in the pit.

The ground version is preferable for spring and summer use, while in-depth extensions are recommended if you plan to use them not only in the warm season, but also in winter.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall greenhouse: materials and stages of work

So, to build a structure similar to the one attached in the proposed drawings and videos, you will need the following materials and tools:

Lumber for arranging the rear (high) and front (low) walls, as well as for the manufacture of rafters, braces, crossbars, doors and ventilation windows;

Durable film coating;

- materials for making the foundation;
- sledgehammer, hammer, tape measure, carpenter's square;
- hand and miter saw, grinder, drill, screwdriver;
- consumables and accessories (galvanized nails, galvanized screws and plates, staples, reinforced building corners, hinges, etc.);
- safety glasses and durable gloves.

Once the foundation is completely ready, you can begin building the greenhouse. In its most general form, the assembly algorithm for this structure includes the following points, namely:

- assembly of the rectangular base, its fastening to the foundation;
- assembly of a low (front) wall (to enhance the rigidity of the structure, horizontal crossbars of varying heights are placed in the center of its blocks - as shown in the figures);
- assembly of a high (rear) wall adjacent to the southern wall of the house (cross members are also used to give strength to this structure);

Trimming the upper part of the ridge at the desired angle (in the proposed version - along, at an angle of 30°);

Trimming the ends of the rafters (the upper ends, which will be attached to the ridge, in the presented case are cut at an angle of 30°, the lower ends - at an angle of 60°);

Fastening the assembled high wall and ridge to the base near the southern wall of the house (usually done using special brackets and braces);

Installing the front low wall on the base;

Installation of rafters (in this version, the rafters are attached with their upper end to the ridge, cut at an angle of 30°, using the “half-tree insertion” method, however, many summer residents also use so-called “brackets” made of galvanized roofing or plywood to fasten the rafters - this is the solution is simpler);

Arrangement of the side wall and installation of the door to the greenhouse at its eastern end (shown in the figure);

Arrangement of the side wall at the western end of the structure;

Arrangement of a ventilation window (shown in the figure);

Processing/sanding of rough surfaces of wooden elements with sandpaper, a sander or other tools;

Treating the installed frame with antiseptic drugs, drying oil or other anti-rotting agents, or painting the frame (these procedures are performed if necessary);

Attaching a film covering (another popular option is covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate).

When we hear the word “greenhouse,” we immediately imagine a free-standing structure or a greenhouse located in the middle of the garden. However, recently, in suburban areas and dachas, a rather interesting, rational version of a greenhouse device has begun to gain popularity - a wall-mounted greenhouse. This solution is convenient and practical from any point of view: reducing construction costs, heating costs (since the structure is adjacent to the wall of a residential building), saving space on the site. According to summer residents and gardeners, the most successful, practical option is a wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof made of polycarbonate.

The roof of such a greenhouse can be of any shape, however, from a practical point of view, it is the lean-to option that has many advantages. Also, this greenhouse may look like a temporary (not permanent) structure with stretched plastic film on a frame made of pipes or wooden beams. If you take the matter seriously, it is better to spend a little more time and building materials to make a reliable, aesthetically attractive greenhouse that will serve you for many years.

Photo of the temporary greenhouse:

Lean greenhouse

This shape of the roof contributes to the natural removal of natural precipitation; the sun's rays will penetrate into the greenhouse at an angle of 90 degrees and will be evenly dispersed over the entire area of the room. Why polycarbonate? This modern building material is ideal for buildings of this type: it transmits the sun's rays while protecting plants from ultraviolet radiation (special polycarbonate recommended specifically for greenhouses). This cellular material is not afraid of severe frosts, as well as extreme heat. It is lightweight (14 times lighter than glass) and highly durable (50 times stronger than the same glass). Polycarbonate is easy to install, drills and cuts well, is plastic, and has good thermal insulation.

Polycarbonate, photo:

A polycarbonate greenhouse attached to the main wall of a house can be used for its intended purpose. It can also be used as a winter garden, a relaxation room or even a small gym. You can make an internal entrance/exit directly from the house, install heating, electricity - in a word, arrange this extension at your discretion. However, in our article we are talking specifically about a greenhouse for plants, so we will consider the polycarbonate structure in this context. To maximize the use of natural natural light, it is recommended to attach the greenhouse to the south side of the house. Thus, the “coldest” northern side will be blocked - this is exactly what is required for comfortable development and growth of plants.

A simplified version of a wall-mounted greenhouse, photo:

DIY wall greenhouse

It is quite easy to erect a temporary frame, hastily knocked down in strategic places, covered with plastic film; the specifics of arranging such a structure do not require a detailed description. Therefore, we will consider a more complicated option, with laying a foundation and installing a durable frame. A lean-to greenhouse is attached to the load-bearing part of the house with your own hands. The foundation acts as a support for the future frame. A traditional strip foundation is ideal for this building.

Let's take a closer look at the working stages:

We take measurements of the greenhouse and mark the boundaries of the foundation according to the plan.
We hammer in pegs at the outer corners of the perimeter and stretch the twine (rope).
We dig a trench under the foundation, the width is approximately 25-30 cm, the depth is determined individually (according to the degree of soil freezing in your region in winter). Be that as it may, the recommended foundation depth should be at least half a meter.
We install load-bearing supports at the corners of the trench - they are the basis of the frame. If wooden foundations are planned, then the parts of the supports buried underground must first be coated with resin (or burned in a fire). This technique will extend the service life of wooden parts and prevent destruction and rotting.
Those supports that are adjacent to the wall of a residential building must be securely attached to it. If it is wood, then it is secured using construction staples. If it is metal, then you can attach it to the wall using impact dowels or special fasteners.
We fill a layer of crushed stone, approximately 10 cm, at the bottom of the foundation trench.
Mix the cement mortar (cement, fine gravel, water, sand). If we consider the proportions of building materials by weight, the composition will look something like this: 10 kg of cement, 30 kg of sand, 40 kg of gravel, 40-50 liters of water. The initial moisture content of the sand should be taken into account.
We cover the gravel pad with the resulting concrete solution.
We install lighthouse blocks (hollow in our case) at the corners of the foundation (press them into freshly poured concrete). We take a building level and thus lay out the entire foundation with these blocks.
We pour cement mortar into the recesses of the blocks, and strengthen the blockwork itself on the sides with earth (backfill).
To keep everything neat, we level the top of the fill using a trowel; at this stage, the foundation should be flush with the soil surface.
Starting from the corners, we lay out 5 rows of red brick (it is not afraid of moisture), do not forget about the stretched twine (for even laying).
After the masonry has hardened, seal the seams.

Next comes the installation of the frame, as mentioned above, it can be steel, wood, aluminum or plastic. In any case, the material must be strong, stable, and light. If we consider the installation of a wooden option, then initially the lower horizontal beam is installed and secured (a wooden beam is a support for the racks). The top shelf is attached to the wall with staples or suitable fasteners. Using tape tow or jute, all existing cracks are sealed. Next, we install the slopes between the upper and lower layers, fastening is done by means of a tie-in.

Greenhouse frame, photo:

When a lean-to greenhouse is erected, the slope of the roof is calculated in advance according to the climatic characteristics of the region of residence (nature, amount of precipitation, wind strength). The optimal tilt angle should be 25-35 degrees. The drainage system is mounted on one side. The vents (places for them, hinges) are determined at the stage of installation of the roof crossbars.

The frame of the greenhouse is secured with screws, metal corners, self-tapping screws, and nails. If wood is replaced with metal, then appropriate fasteners are used and a welding machine is used. At the frame installation stage, entrance doors are installed (if they were initially specified in the project). A greenhouse attached to a house, built with your own hands, involves installing the same number of frame crossbars. If, for example, the length of the structure is 5 meters, then there should be 12 vertical crossbars on the back wall (adjacent to the house) and on the front wall. A similar number of rafters is also used for roof installation (don’t forget about the angle of inclination).

Wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouse

Polycarbonate sheets are cut to size. All measurements must be made especially carefully. To avoid breaking the sheet, the mounting holes must be drilled at least 4-5 cm from the edge. To preserve the internal microclimate and heat, especially if a wall-mounted winter greenhouse is being built, all joints on the polycarbonate must be sealed with special tape (seal the joints). Condensation should not accumulate in the cavities of the material, this is especially true for the lower and upper ends. Reinforced aluminum tape is perfect for these purposes. The connection of polycarbonate sheets and the greenhouse frame is made using special thermal washers and rubber gaskets.

Installation of polycarbonate, photo:

To be on the safe side, to be completely sure that your lean-to greenhouse is properly sealed, carefully check all seams. Inspect the area of the foundation, the junction of the frame with the load-bearing wall, the roof, carefully blow out any cracks found with foam or plaster. At the final stage, electricity is installed in the greenhouse, additional heat sources are installed, and the interior is equipped (shelving, paths).

Separately, it is worth mentioning a more simplified version of the covering for a greenhouse - dense polyethylene or reinforced film. A film greenhouse has the same frame as its polycarbonate counterpart. The only difference is in the covering material, which is wound onto the rail, after which it is nailed with thin nails to the lower bed and frame posts. The width of the film web should be equal to the length of the slats.

Attached greenhouse made of film, photo:

This greenhouse is not designed for the winter season. If desired, the slats with the film are removed from the recesses formed by the nails (for example, on a warm day). With the onset of night or cool weather, the film falls into place (the slats are set to their original position). Reinforced film is more durable and retains heat better. With the onset of autumn, the slats with the film are removed, washed, dried thoroughly, and put away indoors until the next season. With careful handling, the film can last up to 5 years.

With proper work and a properly adjusted ventilation and watering system, your wall-mounted greenhouse will become the optimal place for the comfortable development and growth of plants. And if you install heating in it, you can speed up the ripening of vegetable crops and increase productivity.

In most cases, gardeners install greenhouse structures on their plots as a separate building, only if there is free space. When there is an acute shortage of excess space, a lean-to wall greenhouse helps out gardeners. The design makes good use of the site area.

Automatic winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate, vegetarian type:

Description of a greenhouse with a pitched roof

There are no fundamental differences between a lean-to greenhouse and a conventional one. It is also used for growing various crops. The greenhouse differs in design and location. This is a kind of extension to a living space, fence, garage, or adjoins one wall to a hill. The cross section of the roof resembles a right triangle.

How to place a wall-mounted greenhouse?

It is optimal to install a wall structure to the south wall of the house. Otherwise, crops will not receive the required amount of solar energy throughout the day. A greenhouse located in the shade will not have time to warm up to the required temperature.

ATTENTION: It is not recommended to install wall shelter to structures that are not strong enough. Because creating a certain load on a wall (not stone or brick) can destroy the entire structure. You should not place the greenhouse next to trees and tall bushes. Their foliage will shade the building.

Preparatory work

Before starting construction of an extension to the premises, preparatory work should be carried out. The first step is to develop drawings of the future lean-to greenhouse. In the drawing, indicate the dimensions of the building - length and height. These two values should not exceed the dimensions of the room to which the greenhouse will be attached.

REFERENCE: When calculating the height of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of future crops grown in it. Tall and climbing plants need more space.

You also need to prepare the foundation. Foundation construction technology:

Dig a trench across the entire area of the future extension - depth 40-50 cm, width 25-30 cm;
Using boards, fiberboard or chipboard sheets, assemble the formwork;
Place reinforcing mesh in the trench to strengthen the structure;
Install support pillars;
Pour concrete solution;
After 5-7 days, the solution will become solid and construction of the greenhouse can begin.

DIY wall greenhouse: assembly instructions

Installation of a wall-mounted greenhouse includes several stages:

Greenhouse example:

If you don’t have one, you can make it yourself. Install two pillars when pouring the foundation, and a crossbar. The door is equipped using leftover polycarbonate. For this purpose, pieces of polycarbonate of suitable sizes are hung on a rectangular frame, and door hinges are attached to the supporting pillars. In a cheaper option, a dense polycarbonate sheet is hung, the dimensions of which are 40-50 cm in width and height larger than the entrance. The margin is necessary so that the opening closes tightly. Upon completion of construction work, the resulting structure is completely sealed. The presence of even small cracks will not allow the greenhouse to remain warm and during frosts the crops may die. To seal cracks, use silicone-based sealant.

ATTENTION: When planning the installation of a wall structure, you need to know that high humidity prevails inside it. This fact can have a negative impact on the condition of the wall to which the greenhouse is attached. It is recommended to disassemble it during the hot summer months to dry the walls. There is no need to disassemble the frame, you only need to remove the walls.

The wall-mounted greenhouse is easy to install. The main load is borne by the strong wall of the house, so it is permissible to use a less durable frame. The greenhouse is also additionally protected from the wind, which helps avoid cooling in windy weather.

The effectiveness of any greenhouse depends on many factors that must be taken into account during its construction. For example, the shape of the roof largely determines the illumination of the room and air circulation, and heating a greenhouse built near the wall of the house is much cheaper.

A greenhouse can be a permanent structure with load-bearing trusses and, say, a glass fence, or a simple slatted frame covered with plastic film. Naturally, the service life of the latter is quite short, but they are much cheaper than capital ones. These can be greenhouses with a pitched or gable roof, block, tent or hangar type and frame greenhouses.

The design of greenhouses with a pitched roof

Greenhouses with a pitched roof are most often built attached to the wall of a residential building, outbuilding, or a specially constructed wall. The slope is placed at a specific angle, taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region. The supporting structure of such a roof is a semi-truss, which is covered with plastic film, glass or polycarbonate. A simple pitched roof for a greenhouse usually has a width of 3–4.5 m. As for the length, it depends on the size of the wall it is adjacent to. The height of the side wall of the greenhouse can be 0.9–1.8 m, depending on the plants being grown. Glazing in a lean-to greenhouse is either oblique or vertical side.

Construction of wooden structures for lean-to greenhouses

Semi-trusses for greenhouses of wooden construction are made from edged boards of the following sizes: width – 75–100 mm, thickness – 40–50 mm. The installation step is 2–2.75 m. The boards must be pre-treated with special antiseptic compounds. In 2–4 places along the top of the semi-trusses, tie-purlins (section 50 x 100 mm) are nailed, to which, in turn, sprats are nailed, the installation step is 40–50 cm. These are slats that are made from coniferous wood. They should be free of knots and have a cross-section of 35–45 x 50–75 mm. Shpros, but of a smaller cross-section, are also nailed to the ends of the greenhouse.

How stable the greenhouse structure will be depends on the quality of the connection between the side wall and the roof slope. In the place where the walls and the slope meet, diamond-shaped grooves are made, 1 cm deep. The joint itself is secured with additional bolts with washers and nuts (4 pcs). Washers must be placed on the ends of the bolts to prevent the nuts and bolt heads from becoming embedded in the wood.

The base of the half-trusses is installed between two anchors concreted in the foundation, and the upper end is adjacent to the wall. Based on the material of the wall, it is secured with nails or wood grouse.

Features of the construction of frame lean-to greenhouses

In greenhouses of this type, the support for the middle row of frames is a purlin and a post nailed to the supporting wall. The vertical side wall of the greenhouse is made of profiled bars (lower and upper), which are connected either directly to the beams or to posts of the same size. The frame of the greenhouse is made of square beams with a side of 7.5 cm.

For plants in such a greenhouse, shelves are made from boards 35–45 mm thick. The side walls of the shelves have a height of 0.2–0.25 m. The shelves are supported by racks and purlins. Seedlings are grown in a special shelf, which is suspended from purlins using special steel holders.

This simple technique allows you to fully utilize the volume of the greenhouse.

Wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof and its advantages

Near the wall of the house facing south, it is not at all difficult to build a lean-to greenhouse, known as a wall greenhouse. By design, this is almost half a greenhouse with a gable roof.

The greenhouse, thus, turns out to be reliably protected from bad weather by the wall of the house on the north side.

If crops that require different lighting levels are to be grown in the greenhouse, then it is recommended to orient the greenhouse in the direction from east to west. In this case, the illumination of the sunny southern side and the shaded northern side will be different.

With continuous strong wind, due to intense air exchange in the greenhouse, the thermal regime is disrupted. It is necessary to maintain the required air temperature, which naturally leads to additional energy consumption, and this is not very desirable. Air exchange is vital for plants, and it cannot be made dependent on the wind blowing at a certain moment. To do this, you can resort to natural remedies.

A hedge, which is planted at a specific distance from the greenhouse, and the wall of the house on the north side become good protectors from the wind.

Direct communication with the house creates good opportunities for servicing the greenhouse. However, the resulting winter garden can be used without resorting to direct communication with the house. The walls are able to accumulate heat, and the greenhouse has a relatively small glazed surface, all this makes its heating very economical. By the way, unlike the walls of a house, lightweight building materials are not able to absorb heat sufficiently to release it when the temperature drops.

Energy, heat and water supply for a wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse is much cheaper.

In the summer months, a wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse needs to be shaded and ventilated more often.

Greenhouses with a pitched roof: saving space in the garden

Greenhouses with a pitched roof are most often built attached to the wall of a residential building. The slope is placed at a specific angle, based on the climate of the region.

Do-it-yourself wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof

In practice, the installation of permanent greenhouses on personal plots can most often be seen as a separate structure.

However, with all the advantages of this type of shelter, they also have their disadvantages:

Increased heat consumption in winter due to the open northern side;
High cost of materials for construction;
Inconvenient approach to the greenhouse in winter.

A wall-mounted greenhouse or other wall-mounted shelter will help to minimize these disadvantages.

Types of wall greenhouses

In fact, there are many different designs of wall-mounted greenhouses.

Let's consider them in more detail.

Shed. The most common type of greenhouse, which is half of a gable greenhouse, one side attached to the building. The material consumption is exactly half of what is needed to build a standard gable shelter. Depending on the purpose, it can be covered with either film or cellular polycarbonate.
gable. A more complex structure is one in which one of the ends is adjacent to the wall of the house. Just like polygonal buildings, they are often used as a winter garden or greenhouse. If used as a winter garden or greenhouse, it is covered with glass, less often with cellular polycarbonate.
Arched. An arched wall shelter performs the same function as a lean-to shelter. Compared to the latter, it uses sunlight more efficiently and looks more aesthetically pleasing. If you don’t have access to a pipe bender, DIY construction is quite difficult. It is usually covered with cellular polycarbonate.
Polygonal. This form is usually used only for constructing winter gardens. It looks very presentable, the frame is made of aluminum profiles. The roof is glass or cast polycarbonate. The price of such structures is quite high. An option for those who can afford to invest in beauty.

The photo shows a wall-mounted single-pitch design - compact and simple

For making your own, the best option for our latitudes is wall-mounted, lean-to greenhouses made of polycarbonate and a frame made of steel profile pipe.

Attaching a greenhouse to the house

The entire process of installing a wall shelter with a polycarbonate roof with your own hands can be roughly divided into three main stages:

Excavation work and foundation installation;
Assembling a frame from a steel profile pipe;
Roofing installation;
Installation of internal racks for plants;
Automatic watering device.

The last two points are topics for a separate article and we will not consider them here.

Attached to the house, a lean-to greenhouse made of polycarbonate is quite simple to make with your own hands. Our step-by-step instructions will help you make it.

Greenhouse attached to the end of the house

Excavation and foundation installation

Before starting excavation work, we must decide in which place we will build the structure. The southern wall of the house is best suited for this, the eastern and western sides are worse.

Never build a greenhouse on the north side.

The sun will almost never hit it.

It is better to build a separate building.

We mark the foundation and dig trenches for filling. The trench depth of 45 cm is more than sufficient. The most practical foundation width is 2.5 m. The width of the trenches is 25-30 cm.

We install the formwork and lay a two-layer reinforcing mesh with cells 15x15x15 cm in the trenches. Fill it with concrete to a level 15-20 cm above ground level. It is best to immediately fix the support pipes of the greenhouse frame in concrete.

To make it more convenient to concrete pipes, drive them 10-15 cm into the ground, align them plumb and weld them to the reinforcing mesh.

The recommended height of the outer edge of the building is 2 m. The optimal cross-section of support pillars is 40x40 mm, end pillars 40x20 mm. The wide sides of the end pipes must be oriented parallel to the foundation. Installation step – 60 cm.

Make the support pillars of the ends longer than the calculated one by 5-10 cm.

Then they will be trimmed locally.

In the second photo you can see the support pillar

Assembling a frame from a steel profile pipe

After the concrete has completely set, you can begin assembling the frame. Using a hammer drill, we attach the internal pipes of the frame to the wall of the building. If you do not plan to grow tall plants, then a height of 2.7 m will be sufficient.

The distance from the lower edge of the roof of the house to the roof of the greenhouse should not exceed 40-50 cm, otherwise the latter may be damaged by snow or icicles.

Similarly, we attach to the wall the horizontal guide of the inner part of the greenhouse frame from a 40x40 mm profile pipe. We weld the horizontal guide to the support posts of the outer edge. To save money, it can be made from a 40x20 mm profile pipe. After this, you can proceed to installing the rafters.

One of the ways to attach frame elements

For rafters you can also use a 40x20 mm pipe. For greater strength, it is better to place it “on the edge”. The rafters should extend beyond the edge of the outer guide by approximately 20 cm.

We cut the support pillars of the ends of the greenhouse under the rafters and weld them in place. We weld the remaining rafters in 60 cm increments. We weld the perimeter spacers close to the foundation. We weld the spacers on the outer edge of the greenhouse at a level of 1 m from the foundation.

Spacers can be made from a 20x20 mm profile pipe.

If the width of the greenhouse does not exceed 2 m, rafter struts are not required. If the width is larger, insert spacers in a checkerboard pattern in 1m increments.

When choosing the thickness of pipes for rafters, preference should be given to a thickness of 3 mm.

After completing all welding work, all metal parts of the frame should be painted with white oil paint in 3-4 layers. The choice of white color is determined by the need to reduce the thermal conductivity of the frame. Silver paint is even better, but it is more expensive.

Schematic representation of the finished greenhouse frame

Paint the wall of the building white or attach foil to it. This will also significantly reduce heat loss.

Roof device

A do-it-yourself lean-to greenhouse is covered as follows:

Before installing the roof, cut out all the necessary pieces of polycarbonate sheets on paper. The honeycombs should be oriented from top to bottom. The roofing sheets should protrude beyond the frame by 20-25 cm in all directions except when adjacent to the wall.

Welded frame made of profile pipe and attached polycarbonate sheet

If the roof or walls of the greenhouse are not cut out of one piece, use a special connecting profile to connect them.

We cut out the sheets of macrolon and seal its ends: the upper edge with special foil, and the lower edge with perforated tape.

Necessary holes in the end walls: doors, vents are best cut “in place”.

We install the polycarbonate by screwing it with roofing screws through special washers to the frame pipes. You should start from the roof.

Installation of a roof on an arched wall greenhouse

After this, the long side is installed. The ends are screwed in last. If necessary, they are trimmed to fit the roof.

Upon completion of the roofing work, all Makrolon joints must be carefully sealed with silicone. The junction of the roof and the wall can be filled with foam and painted over.

If you approach the construction of a wall-mounted greenhouse correctly, it will not only help you save money on construction and maintenance, but will also become a real decoration for your home.

Wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof: video instructions for installing a polycarbonate greenhouse structure with your own hands, price, photo, Greenhouse and greenhouse

Wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof: video instructions for installing a polycarbonate greenhouse structure with your own hands, price, photo

How to make a shed greenhouse with your own hands?

A lean-to greenhouse is a permanent structure with load-bearing trusses and fencing made of glass or other material. Another option is a frame structure made of slats, which is covered with a polyethylene film. The period of operation of the latter is not long, but its construction will require spending a small amount of money. Today, most often, the construction of permanent greenhouses on personal plots is found in the form of free-standing structures.

Figure 1. Scheme of a lean-to greenhouse.

However, with all their advantages, they also have disadvantages:

Inconvenient approach to the greenhouse in winter.
The high cost of materials that will be needed for construction work.

Such disadvantages can be minimized by constructing a wall-mounted greenhouse.

Greenhouses with a pitched roof

In most cases, such structures are built as extensions to the walls of private houses, outbuildings and specially erected structures. The ramp is placed at a specific angle. The angle must be chosen based on the climatic characteristics of the region. The supporting element of such a roof is a semi-truss, which is covered with a film of polyethylene, glass or polycarbonate. In most cases, an ordinary roof with one slope for a greenhouse has a width of 3.5-4.5 m. The length will depend on the size of the wall to which the structure is attached. The height of the side wall of the greenhouse is most often 1-1.8 m. In this case, everything will depend on what plants are planned to be grown in the building being built. The diagram of a lean-to greenhouse made of wood is shown in Fig. 1.

Scheme of a winter lean-to greenhouse with backfill.

Semi-trusses for greenhouses made of wood are made from edged boards of the following sizes: width - 80-110 mm, thickness - 45-50 mm. Next, you need to calculate the truss or find a ready-made project. Based on the data obtained, the optimal installation pitch for the slats is 2.2-2.7 m. Before making the structure, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic. In several places in the upper part of the semi-truss it will be necessary to attach ties with a cross section of 100x50 mm. In the future, sprocket bars will be attached to these elements. The installation step of the latter is 45-50 cm. To make a sprocket, you need to take a beam from coniferous trees. There should be no knots on the slats. The cross section of the elements is 75x50 mm. Shpros with a cross section of 45x35 mm will need to be nailed to the end parts of the greenhouse. These elements are not allowed to be connected along their length, since in this case it will be very difficult to protect their joints from rainwater.

The stability of the structure being manufactured will depend on the quality of fixation of the side wall and roof slope. In the place where the walls and the slope connect, you will need to prepare diamond-shaped grooves. The depth of the grooves is 1 cm. The base of the semi-trusses must be installed between several anchors, which are subsequently concreted into the base.

Single-pitched frame greenhouses

In buildings of this type, the supporting element of the middle row of beams will be a tie and a stand, which is nailed to the supporting wall. The vertical side wall of the greenhouse can be made of profiled timber. The elements are fastened with frames or racks of identical sizes. The frame structure of the greenhouse can be made from bars with sides of 7.5 cm.

In order to be able to plant plants, you will need to make shelves from boards approximately 30-40 mm thick. The side walls of the shelves should have a height of 0.2-0.3 m. The shelves should be supported by racks and ties. The seedlings are grown on a special shelf, which is suspended from the ties using steel holders. In this way, you can fully utilize the volume of the structure being manufactured.

Wall-mounted single-slope greenhouse

Tools for greenhouse installation.

At the wall of a private house, which is directed to the south, you can install a lean-to greenhouse, which is called a wall greenhouse. By design, it is ½ greenhouse with a gable roof. Such a building is reliably protected by the wall of a private house on the north side from bad weather conditions. If you plan to grow plants in a greenhouse that require different lighting levels, then the greenhouse should be installed in the direction from east to west. In this case, the illumination of the south side will be different from the north.

In the event of constant strong wind, due to air exchange in the greenhouse, the thermal regime will be disrupted. Therefore, the required air temperature should be maintained. This may lead to additional electrical energy costs. Air exchange is extremely necessary for grown plants; it should not be allowed to be dependent on the wind, which blows only at a certain point in time. To do this, it is recommended to use natural remedies.

Direct communication with a private home is a great advantage, as it becomes possible to comfortably maintain the greenhouse. However, the winter garden can be used without resorting to direct communication with the owner's building. Unlike the walls of a house, lightweight building materials are not able to absorb heat at such a level as to release it if the temperature drops. Water, heat and energy supply for wall-mounted construction is much cheaper, which is an additional advantage.

In the summer, such a structure will need to be shaded and often ventilated.

Sequence of actions for making a greenhouse

Items needed:

Scheme of foundation formwork for a wooden greenhouse.

cement;
crushed stone;
sand;
water;
reinforcing mesh;
steel profile pipes;
racks;
shovel;
device for welding;
perforator;
self-tapping screws;
nuts;
washers;
bolts.

The process of installing a wall structure can be divided into the following stages:

Excavation.
Construction of the foundation.
Assembly of a frame structure from steel profile pipes.
Construction of a pitched roof.
Installation of internal shelving.
Installation of an automatic watering system.

Before carrying out excavation work, you need to decide where the building will be located. As mentioned earlier, the best option is the southern wall of a private house.

The main elements of a lean-to greenhouse made from window frames.

You will need to mark the base and dig a trench for pouring concrete. The optimal trench depth is approximately 45-50 cm. The width of the base in most cases is 2.5 m. The width of the trenches is 20-30 cm. You can dig a trench with your own hands, there is no need to use expensive equipment.

Then the concrete solution is poured to a level 10-20 cm above the ground level. It is recommended to fix the support tubes of the greenhouse frame structure in concrete at this stage.

For the convenience of concreting the tubes, you will need to drive them 12-15 cm into the ground, set them plumb and weld them to the installed mesh.

The optimal height of the outer edge of the building is 2 m. The cross-section of the support posts should be 40x40 mm, the end posts - 20x40 mm. The wide elements of the end tubes should be oriented parallel to the base. The element installation step is 60 cm.

How to assemble a frame structure?

When the concrete solution has completely set, it will be possible to assemble the frame structure. Using a hammer drill, you will need to drill holes for attaching the internal tubes of the frame to the wall of the building. If there are no tall plants in the greenhouse, then the height of the structure should be 2.7 m. It should be noted that the distance from the bottom of the house roof to the greenhouse roof should be less than 50 cm.

In the same way, a horizontal frame guide made of a 40x40 mm pipe is attached to the wall. Next, the horizontal guide is welded to the supports of the outer part of the structure.

The next step is the installation of the rafters. In this case, you can use 20x40 mm pipes. The elements should protrude beyond the outermost part of the outer guide by approximately 20 cm.

The supports should be trimmed under the rafters and then welded into place.

All elements must be painted with white oil-based paint in several layers. You should know that white color reduces the thermal conductivity of the frame. Finally, you will need to secure the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws.

A polycarbonate lean-to greenhouse is easy to make. If you prepare all the necessary elements, the assembly will proceed without problems.