We make a comfortable desk for a child with our own hands. How to make school furniture for dolls from cardboard Homemade desk for a child

Guillaume's table-desk is an example of amazing furniture that will grow with your child. In addition, the children's table transforms into a convenient magnetic board. This versatility allows you to save space in your home and not spend money on buying new furniture every year.

Tools

• Screwdriver. Power tool for tightening screws. Mobile due to the absence of a wire and powerful enough to make holes of small diameter.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 x 19 mm. Necessary for connecting desk parts together. Unlike furniture nails, they do not allow connections to become loose.
• Putty knife. A tool for evenly distributing paint over a surface.
• Short pile roller. Allows you to quickly and evenly paint vertical and horizontal surfaces.
• 600 grit sandpaper. Used for final sanding of parts.
• Masking tape. Limits the area of ​​the part to be painted, preventing paint from getting onto other elements.
• Jigsaw. Tool for cutting parts from wooden panels. Allows you to adjust the cutting direction as you work.

Necessary materials

To make a transformable children's desk we will need three-layer wooden panels. The main parts of the structure will be cut out of them. The thickness of the panels is 30 millimeters and dimensions are 1700 x 900 millimeters.

Assembly instructions

1. The photo shows the dimensions.
   Details of Guillaume's desk with dimensions We mark out the main details of future school furniture on the panels. You can cut them yourself, or you can turn to professionals. The thickness of all parts is the same - 30 millimeters.
2. We cut out the details with a jigsaw.
   We process the ends of the workpieces with sandpaper to get rid of sharp edges and burrs.
3. Now let's create a magnetic board. Stick painter's tape along the borders of the proposed board.
4. Prime the surface with an adhesive primer. Before applying the primer must be stirred. To apply the mixture evenly, a short-haired roller is best.
5. Let's go with sandpaper over the dried primer for grinding.
   
6. Using a damp cloth, remove accumulated dust and wait until the primer dries completely.
7. After five hours, we apply paint with magnetic properties. Before applying it also needs to be stirred. Apply it with a roller, stirring occasionally during operation. Magnetic paint is applied in three layers, each drying time is 24 hours; applying a new layer before the previous one has completely dried is not recommended. Try to be as smooth as possible. To do this, use a short-haired roller and a paint spatula.
   
8. After the third layer has completely dried, apply decorative paint for school boards. In modern stores you can find any color. We mix the paint, apply it to the surface with a short pile roller. Wait six hours for the first coat to dry and apply the second. Lightly move the roller in one direction to even out the paint.
9. Now we collect the cut out details of the home table together. Using self-tapping screws, we secure the table stand supports to the bottom panel (numbers 3, 4 and 5 in the diagram).
10. We fix the stand and install the table cover holders (numbers 2, 7 and 8 in the diagram).
11. We put the table cover on the stand.
12. We assemble the chair by connecting the seat to the chair post (numbers 9 and 11 in the diagram).
13. Next, we attach the stand with the seat to the bottom panel of the chair using a support (numbers 6 and 10 in the diagram).
    

Labor and cost

Cutting out the parts will take an hour. Subsequent assembly and fastening is another half hour.

Painting, together with drying of each layer, takes about four days.

• Adhesive primer 4 kg. - 300 rubles
• Paint with magnetic properties 0.5 l. — 1500 rubles
• Blackboard paint 1 l. — 1000 rubles
• Three sheets of plywood 1700 x 900 mm - 5800 rubles

The total cost of the table is 8,600 rubles.

With such a table, a child will pass through more than one class. The height of the chair and the lid can be adjusted, so this furniture will serve the owner for several years.

Video

Our child goes to school. To first grade!
We carry out targeted shopping for school uniforms, school stationery and school desks. Everything is chosen, measured, bought, but there is a hitch with the desk. Those. There is a desk for sale, but the price is the same as for a whole children's room. They came in from the left and from the right, well, it’s not worth that kind of money - almost 10 thousand for chipboard and plastic. The husband can’t stand it and says: “Yes, I’d rather do it myself!” Nobody pulled his tongue, he said it himself - he does it himself, and I watch. And this is what I see in the evenings.

First preparatory evening:
The apartment was occupied by some kind of firewood and plywood.

Second evening:
The sticks took over the room, forming some Chinese characters. The husband claims that these will be legs. I wonder whose?

Third evening:
I am greeted by two huge glued boards, probably a table top. Judging by the size of the desk, it will be for two people.

Fourth evening:
Military technologies were introduced into the production of the desk - my husband says that he dismantled a plywood box from under shells. The design of the desk includes the ability to adjust the height. The desk now has side walls.

Fifth evening:
Something like a table has already begun to appear. By twisting 4 screws, you can move the back wall of the desk up and down, thereby changing the angle of the tabletop.

To prevent the “legs” from moving apart into splits, a reinforcing stick appeared.

Day six:
And here is the desk: brand new, wooden, varnished, with the required tilt angle of 12 degrees! But something is missing.

Evening of the same day:
I actively intervene in the process of creating a desk. I'm adding the finishing touches to make the desk look more fun.

Eighth evening:
After drying, the desk is installed in its regular place, prepared for use and equipped with a school backpack.

Functionality check carried out

And the desk was put into trial operation.

Total: 8 days and 1,500 rubles (paint, boards, varnish, PVA glue, screws and plywood do not count) for a two-seater desk (we have two sons) made of natural wood.

How to make a children's table so that it can be both an original desk for the child and at the same time a playhouse for toys. In this article we will tell you how to do all this in one day.

Many parents prefer to buy a ready-made table for their child and not bother. But there are also those who simply cannot afford it. Or they like to do everything with their own hands and to the required dimensions of their interior. The advantage of this table is its versatility. This is a desk, a playhouse, and a place to store toys.

In order to make a wooden desk, you need to purchase material, a sheet of furniture chipboard, of a suitable color. Or you can construct it from leftover material from previous creations, or from unnecessary furniture. This is exactly the economical option that will be described in this article, and besides this, you can read what else you can do

Required tools and material


— Electric jigsaw (hand-held circular saw)
— Hacksaw for metal
— Manual milling machine (can be replaced with a feather drill for wood of the required diameter)
— Drill
— Corner with a ruler
- Stationery knife
— Roulette
- Pencil


Material
— Chipboard
— Fiberboard
— Self-adhesive film of a suitable color
— End tape on chipboard, corresponding color
— Self-tapping screws or furniture screws, nails

Accessories
— Piano loop 1 pc.,
— Furniture hinge 4 pcs.,

Let's move on to the dimensions of the parts and the drawing

First, you need to sketch out a drawing on paper; do not forget that the dimensions can be changed if desired.




— Sidewalls 2 pcs. (300 mm x 790 mm), angle can be 90 - 60 degrees;
— Shelves 3 pcs. (520 mm x 300 mm), shelf length taking into account the thickness of the side walls;
— Doors 2 pcs. (280 mm x 120 mm);
— Roof 2 pcs. (295mm x 600mm), you can make one half of the roof from fiberboard;
— Back wall 1 pc. (520 mm x 560 mm), it can also be lightened and cut from fiberboard.

Cut out the details of the table - house
So, let's get to work. On the surface of the prepared material, draw parts according to size with a pencil and cut them out with an electric jigsaw.


Attention! The width of the roof parts must be two centimeters wider than the main structure on each side


The ends where chipboard parts are cut must be glued with adhesive-based end tape. Attach the tape to the end and carefully iron it with a hot iron, placing a sheet of paper between the tape and the iron. Trim the excess edges of the tape with a sharp knife.

We connect the prepared parts

Making the base
Screw three shelves to one side panel. On the other side of the shelves, attach the second side panel in the same way. In order to hide the screws, they must be recessed into the body of the material. To do this, drill holes in the desired location with a drill larger than the diameter of the screw head. On the front side, the caps can be puttyed if you plan to decorate the end later. Otherwise, use furniture screws with plastic plugs or stickers. The result is the frame of the future desk



Installing the roof
We take a piano loop and measure the required size, cut off the excess with a hacksaw. We screw the loop to the top shelf and side of the roof at the level of the thickness of the chipboard. To ensure that when laying out the table, the loop does not separate the working area of ​​the desk.
We simply screw the second part of the roof to the base.



Installing doors
Table doors can be attached either to a piano hinge or to furniture hinges. It must be remembered that when using a piano hinge to secure the door, you need to install stops.
Let's consider the second method of fastening - with a furniture hinge.
Important! The doors must be the correct size, as they serve as the legs of the folding table.

To fasten the door using a furniture hinge, a milling machine was used (or use a special drill). Handles can be made either in the form of holes (decorate them in a child’s style), or they can be screwed onto any furniture handles.
We simply nail the back wall made of fiberboard.

decoration
All visible parts (if desired, internal parts) can be painted or covered with decorative self-adhesive film. In order for the film to last a long time and stick as tightly as possible to the product, you need to use a soft cloth and a hair dryer.

The children's table and desk is ready, this is how it looks when assembled and looks more like a house:


And this is how it looks disassembled and looks more like a desk or table:

We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure correct sitting posture, which depends on many parameters. Regular chairs will not work. Unfortunately, office chairs with gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat reach adjustment, and adjusting the seat height and back angle alone is not enough. In such a situation, a special adjustable chair will be a great solution!

On the Internet you can find many different options for every taste. From all the variety I chose the design I liked.

The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technologically advanced. It is important to take into account the ratio of the sizes of the elements, their relative position, the strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, we couldn’t find any drawings on the manufacturer’s website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. All the more interesting. The design took several days.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a plotter at my disposal to output images of the required size, and the program I worked with doesn’t know how to print large images in parts (or I simply couldn’t figure out how to do it). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. Part drawings were saved as regular high-resolution photographs. Then, using the free PosteRazor program, they were converted into PDF documents containing drawings at the required scale and divided into separate A4 sheets.

Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I saw the chair on the Internet and someone was designing it! Let's figure it out.

This situation can be looked at from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because a whole range of well-reasoned opinions is possible here and most likely it will not be possible to arrive at the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.

So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or an industrial design, which are recognized and protected only subject to state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive body for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer’s website; most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, there is no particular novelty or originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn’t find it on www.freepatent.ru. This means that I will not violate anyone’s patent rights for lack of any.

But drawings, according to the Administrative Code, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work of fine art (computer programs, by the way, as literary works). The drawings I developed are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, the general features of which I saw in photographs. And as an author, I have every right to publish the results of my work. Unlike those who, without permission or a link to the source, post articles from my blog on their websites to attract visitors. You have to put copyright on the photos.

Well enough tediousness, it's time to get down to business!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no detail in the archive, then its description will be further in the text.

We print them like a regular multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader Print Wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the “Actual Size” scale. As a result, after gluing together the individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1:1.

We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it onto a sheet of plywood.

Plywood with a thickness of 22 mm was chosen as the material for the racks. We cut out the first part, departing 5 mm from the contour. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut are not very important. If only there was some reserve left.

Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term “combing” to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat strip against the workpiece along the line of the drawing and go along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. I processed the fillets by guiding the router with my hands, followed by adjusting the fillets with a grinding machine. You can spend more time on this preparation, because... it will serve as a template and the quality of the remaining racks depends on the quality of its processing.

Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the remaining blanks for the racks

Next, use self-tapping screws to secure the template to the workpieces. To tighten the screws, we make holes in the template in the places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.

And using a copy cutter we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.

Using a router inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements that secure the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The groove depth is 10 mm, the groove width is 24 mm (it might be more convenient to make the groove width equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).

In the middle of the groove we make holes at equal distances. On the back side of the workpiece, where the drill exits, you must place a block so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or disguise such a chip.

We do the same with the runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it onto a sheet of plywood. Next, we cut it out with a margin and “comb it” as we did with the stand template.

From the same sheet of 22 mm plywood, using a jigsaw, we roughly cut out future runners with a margin.

We use the same self-tapping screws to fix the template on the workpiece.

And on the milling table, using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.

Using an edge moulder, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.

Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the groove on the racks. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, so it was decided to make the slats from solid ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.

A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that there are right and left runners.

After the glue has dried, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the runner body. There are also holes made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.

The runners also have gutters milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. These gutters will hold the seats and footrests. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.

We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: print the drawing, glue it onto plywood and cut out the blank.

In order to make even roundings, I used a thin strip of 5 mm plywood, passed between the screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How this is done can be seen in the photo:

As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to the already worked out scheme - we mark the blanks (we trace the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indentation of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece using self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. Having ready-made templates, the whole operation takes a few minutes. The small holes left on the finished parts from the screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden using putty at the grinding stage. Personally, I took the first path. Don't forget to round the edges using an edge bevel cutter.

The template for the back was made “on the spot”. That's why there is no drawing of the backrest. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Back height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of groove for backrest in racks 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs using it using a jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.

There are three bars in total in the chair. They are made from the same 22mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars fixing the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.

Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture..." The angle of the backrest is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - it seems to me a very comfortable angle.

We get a small pile of parts

Each chair is assembled using hex bolts and countersunk furniture barrel nuts. The bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.

Ready. As they say, “it seems true.” During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fit of parts is checked, minor defects are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this point, the sawing, drilling and milling stage is completed.

The sanding and painting stage begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used 180 paper. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.

Painting work is a separate discipline. A poor finish can ruin the entire job. Winter outside and lack of heating in the workshop made adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither a spray gun nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only a non-smelling water-based varnish and a brush.

Because The chair was made from leftover plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by sanding, so I decided to cover one chair with a dark color - “mahogany”, the second - with glossy opaque milky enamel. Only the first one is ready so far. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.

If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color applied unevenly, the parts are covered with bald spots due to different degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to throw it all away, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take 180-grit sandpaper and sand all the raised pile. Next we put on a second layer, after drying the surface became a little better - there was no lint and the color went on more evenly, but it was still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the parts with the same sandpaper and apply a third layer. There's a fourth behind him. And so on. We continue until the result satisfies you. For this I needed five layers, which took two days.

The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm, 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, and worker’s wages.

I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. With us they are, of course, much cheaper.

Despite the dubious design, the design is quite thoughtful.
This is not just a children's chair, it is more like office furniture for a schoolchild. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first doing lessons and then playing computer games, and for them the correct comfortable posture is important for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision. At the same time, schoolchildren are also actively growing.

For greater comfort, you can make removable soft pads for the seat and back. As an option. But I don’t see any particular need - usually school furniture without pillows. Armrests are also not particularly necessary, because when writing or working on the keyboard, the elbows should rest freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole variety of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.

You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:

Hello friends! Our cardboard workshop received an order to design and manufacture comfortable and durable school furniture for dolls from cardboard. It was necessary to make a school board, a desk and a teacher's table with a chair. Moreover, the furniture was intended for playing with dolls 30-40 cm tall.

The play furniture turned out to be quite large (for a doll size). For a more visual understanding, here are the general sizes of items from our set:

— school board: width — 31.8 cm, height - 35 cm, width of racks - 16 cm;

— table (length×width×height): 30×17×20 cm;

- chair: seat - 10×10 cm, height - 21 cm;

- desk: length - 31 cm, width - 30 cm, height - approx. 20 cm, bench - 10×30 cm.

This is what a school desk looks like:

And here you can take a closer look at the chair.

Our model doll is very comfortable both at the table and at the desk. :)

Thanks to the use of several layers of cardboard, the furniture is actually durable enough for long-term use. No worse than plywood. And the undoubted advantage is that it is much easier to make furniture from cardboard with your own hands. I will now show you exactly how and tell you in detail.

Master class: how to make doll school furniture from cardboard

Materials and tools:

— sheets of A4 size office paper (for printing templates);
— packaging corrugated cardboard (3 mm thick);
- standard (stationery) knife;
— creasing tool;
- metal ruler;
- scissors;
- double sided tape;
- Moment Crystal glue, toothpick;
- hot glue gun (optional).

As you can see, the materials needed to make doll furniture from cardboard are more than affordable. Getting packaging corrugated cardboard is now not at all a problem: you can find something at home in the pantry or on the mezzanine, huge quantities of used boxes are recycled in furniture and grocery stores - and there you can quite get the necessary amount of cardboard, and for free.

You can also inexpensively buy corrugated cardboard sheets individually at craft stores, packaging stores, or directly at a cardboard factory (if you have one nearby). In this case, I recommend choosing three-layer corrugated cardboard brand T-24- it's denser. But in principle, softer cardboard of the T-23 brand is also suitable.

The process of making furniture for dolls, like all our cardboard toys, begins with preparing templates.

Generally speaking, having familiarized yourself with the technology itself, you can, if you wish, design doll furniture according to your dimensions.

Or you can use ready-made templates, carefully calculated and tested in practice. A set of templates for making doll furniture “Playing at School” can be ordered from.

PREPARATION OF TEMPLATES

So, if you took advantage of our offer, print the templates on sheets of A4 office paper.

Cut out small templates (which fit entirely on an A4 sheet) with small allowances.

Glue large templates according to the composition diagrams (see example). And also cut with small allowances.

Place pieces of double-sided tape on the back of the templates. Each template must then be attached to purl side of the corrugated cardboard.

Note: The templates have a special round icon indicating the recommended direction of the waves of the corrugated layer. That is, the lines inside this icon should be approximately parallel to the lines that are visible on the wrong side of the cardboard.

It is not necessary to follow this direction exactly. Sometimes you have to adjust to the size of an existing piece of cardboard.

Just keep in mind that a cut made transverse to the direction of the waves of the corrugated layer will be stronger and more rigid. And, conversely, a cut made along the waves wrinkles easily.

Therefore, you need to try to ensure that, if possible, all the edges of the parts are exactly across the waves. In addition, they will look more aesthetically pleasing.

Well, now you can proceed directly to making doll furniture with your own hands. Let's start by making a chair and a table.

TEACHER CHAIR FOR DOLLS

Using a standard (stationery) knife, cut out the chair parts according to the templates S-4.1, S-4.2, S-4.3 And S-4.4. Long straight lines are cut using a ruler, short and curved sections are cut by hand.

On details S-4.1 Use the tip of a knife to mark the fold lines (before cutting out the part). Having cut out the part, we crease it. A creasing stick used in scrapbooking is suitable for this operation. You can also score with the end of a flat-head screwdriver or scissors (you just need to act carefully so as not to tear the cardboard: the tool must be tilted as close to the surface of the cardboard as possible).

Carefully bend the part S-4.1.

Cutting out the details S-5.1, S-5.2, S-6. There is no need to score anything here. And we will make the folds on the parts in the following way: along the blue lines on the template, we will make cuts to approximately half the thickness of the cardboard (be careful not to cut through), and then separate 2 layers of cardboard in the areas between the cut lines.

To make the layers easier to separate, first bend the piece outward along the score lines. In the end it should look like this.

The chair parts are ready. Let's start assembling.

Glue the part S-5.2 inside the part S-5.1 with “Moment Crystal” glue. It is enough to apply glue along the edges and around the holes. To prevent excess from leaking out, spread the glue with a toothpick into a thin layer.

Glue the second part of the part S-5.1- it turned out to be the seat of a chair. Gluing the halves of the part S-6(back of chair). At the same time, we apply glue to single-layer areas.

Place the glued parts under a press for a short time (for example, several books) for a reliable connection.

Notice how neat and precise the end of the seat turned out - this is due to the fact that in this area we separated 2 layers of cardboard.

Inside details S-4.1 glue the part first S-4.2, then - S-4.3 And S-4.4 right sides facing out.

Check: when bending the chair legs, the specified parts must fit together exactly at right angles.

When the chair legs are dry, glue them to the seat. Pour glue into the slots of the seat, and use a toothpick to lubricate the protrusions on the legs. We connect the parts as shown in the photo.

Glue the back of the chair. Here, in addition to the protrusion and slot, we also lubricate the back surface of the legs with glue.

We connect everything, press and hold until the glue sets.

The cardboard doll chair is ready.

TEACHER'S TABLE FOR DOLLS

Now let's figure out how to make a table for a doll.

Cutting out the details S-1.1 And S-1.2: 2 pcs. with slots and 1 pc. - without slits.

Cut out 2 parts S-2 and table top details S-3.1 And S-3.2.

Glue the doll table supports using Moment Crystal glue: 1 piece S-1.1/S-1.2 without slot + 2 parts S-1.1/S-1.2 with slots. In this case, the parts must be positioned so that on both sides of the support the cardboard is facing out.

We also glue the cross member.

And we glue the tabletop: first we glue part C-3.2 inside part C-3.1, then we bend and glue the free halves. Don't forget to apply glue to single-layer areas as well.

The table elements are ready. Assembling: glue the supports and crossbar, then glue the tabletop. For this operation, you can use a hot glue gun. It will be faster and stronger this way.

That's all. The doll table is ready!

Let's move on to the next piece of doll school furniture.

SCHOOL DESK FOR DOLLS

We cut out the support parts using the templates P-1.1 And P-1.2(2 pcs.), P-2.1 And P-2.2(1 piece each), P-3(2x3 pcs.).

To speed up the process, repeating parts can be cut in 2 layers: Place 2 pieces of cardboard with right sides facing each other and secure the edges with pieces of masking tape. In this case, you will not need to print additional templates.

But cutting in 2 layers requires more effort. Therefore, if this method turns out to be inconvenient, it is better to cut all the parts in 1 layer. It will be more careful.

Cutting out the bench parts P-5.1 And P-5.2, P-6.1 And P-6.2. Don’t forget: we only make cuts along the blue lines, then separate the 2 layers of cardboard between them.

Cutting out the details of the crossbars for the desk P-7 And P-8— 3 pcs.

Using the P-8 template, you need to cut out 3 parts, slightly different in size (3 parallel lines are drawn along one long edge of the template). You can do this as follows:

- attach the template to the cardboard and use the point of a compass (or a sewing needle) to mark all the corners of the part along the outer contour;

- transfer the template to a free section of cardboard and mark the corners of the part with the point of a compass, but now using the middle of 3 parallel lines along one long edge;

- transfer the template again and mark the corners of the smallest part.

Mark with a pencil which part is which and where the top is, so you don’t get confused later when gluing. The differences in size are necessary so that the upper end of the crossbar is at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the desk top.

In addition, we cut out the details of the desk base P-9(6 pcs.). The photo shows parts with rounded corners (although on the templates all corners are straight - for ease of cutting). If you wish, you can do this too. To do this, use nail scissors to round each corner of the part, first cutting off only the top layer of cardboard, then only the bottom.

The tabletop for the desk is made in the same way as for the teacher's desk.

Glue all the parts together as shown in the photo. The principle, I think, is already clear.

And let's start assembling. At this stage, you can use a hot glue gun. Or you can continue to use Moment Crystal glue.

We glue the parts of the bench together by inserting the tabs into the grooves.

We assemble the desk: first we glue the supports and crossbars, then we glue the tabletop.

Glue the desk to the base.

And glue the bench to the base.

The school desk for dolls is ready!

SCHOOL BOARD FOR DOLLS

The final element of our furniture set.

Cutting out the details D-1(1×2 pcs.), D-2.1 And D-2.2(2x2 pcs.).

If desired, here you can use the method of cutting 2 layers of cardboard (see description above).

Cutting out the details D-3, D-4 And D-5.

Glue the board itself: inside the part D-3 glue the parts D-4 And D-5 as shown in the photo. Apply glue only to the edges and spread a thin layer with a toothpick.

We bend and glue the outer parts of the board.

Apply glue in the gap between the main part of the board and the shelf. Bend the shelf and press until the glue sets.

All that remains is to glue the board to the supports. And you're done!

Puppet school board in all its glory. :)

Let's admire the doll furniture in action a little more.

The school furniture for dolls turned out just like the real thing, durable and comfortable. And, most importantly, it is harmless - there are no sharp corners, no small parts that break off, and the material is environmentally friendly!

On the spacious shelf of the board (its width is 4 cm) you can put homemade visual aids, mini-books, pieces of chalk or a felt-tip pen.

You can attach a sheet of paper to the board and write problems on it, or you can glue a special film that imitates a blackboard, and then you can even write with crayons - in general, everything will be for real! And the children will be delighted!

If desired, cardboard doll furniture can be painted. It is better to use acrylic paints for this.

Although, in my opinion, it’s very stylish anyway. :)

Now you know how to make furniture for dolls from cardboard. And you can easily make the same one with your own hands for your children or for your group in kindergarten. And our templates will help you with this!

I wish you pleasant creativity and entertaining games with your children!

If you have any questions about making doll furniture, write them in the comments. I will be glad to clarify all points.

Yours Inna Pyshkina and the Kartonkino team.