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DIY circular machine. The process of making a table for a circular saw with your own hands

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or you can use.
Screwdriver.
Grinder (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to be deformed or damaged. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

Every economic person takes care of his home and its condition. There are many things that can come in handy during a renovation, but it is usually difficult to say in advance how much the whole project might cost. Building a new house or renovating it using wood gives excellent results. But to get it you need to try hard and spend a lot of effort. If you build a house only with the help of wood, nails and a saw with a plane, then the process will be very protracted and difficult, since such work is too heavy for one or even several people. To solve this problem, they came up with a circular machine. This is what we will talk about in our article today.

What it is?

A circular saw (including a jointer) is a hand-held circular saw built into a table. Such a part performs many functions and is unique of its kind, as it can cut out various shapes along the contours. If you have a similar device in your house, it will greatly simplify the construction of any structure, because this device is more convenient than a saw, it is more suitable for making smooth changes and cuts than a chainsaw. The material can be processed at any chosen angle; this is not difficult compared to the above tools.

The machine can be used to change the shape of all materials based on wood. Its functions can be expanded if you make a circular saw with your own hands at home. But this will be written about later. Making such a tool yourself is not so difficult; in some cases you can rely on intuition.

What is needed for production?

To create a machine at home, you don’t need as much as it might seem at first glance: just a saw and a table to secure it. These are the most basic components that will play their role in the future. But you can also add some elements, and this depends entirely on the wishes of the owner, who creates, for example, a circular machine with a plane on his own.

In a simple version, the saw must be attached to the table surface. Moreover, each master chooses the angle relative to the surface himself. The ease of use and quality of all subsequent products made using the machine will depend on this. In order for such an element to serve for a long time, it is necessary to make the correct fastening.

Wooden saw machine

Now let's talk about how to make a wooden circular saw using a saw.

As mentioned above, the main components are the saw itself and the table for attaching it. In addition, we will need:

a sheet of plywood or other board to cover the table;
wooden blocks for legs;
universal glue, you can’t live without it;
self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts.

All of the above points are necessary if there is no ready-made table and you need to make it yourself. This option is the most practical, since you need to take into account that the machine is not created for one time or for a year. Therefore, it is better to do everything yourself, check the quality of all parts and fasteners.

Making a circular saw - making a table

To create the surface of the apparatus, it is necessary to cut a piece measuring sixty by one hundred centimeters from a sheet of plywood or other material. This is the most important preparation. Along the edges of it, bars for the legs are attached, first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws and nuts.

A special hole is cut for the future saw, which is done using initial modeling and drawing out the necessary holes. After this, a jigsaw will come in handy to carefully cut the hole. This is a relatively fine work, so at this stage it is better not to make mistakes. When working, it is necessary to take into account the presence of cutting discs. Without them, the machine will not be able to fulfill its purpose.

Now they mark out places for the beams-legs, because the machine must be attached to something. Their length is selected individually, taking into account the height of the master, although, of course, there are standard sizes, and they range from 80 to 90 centimeters. If the height is chosen incorrectly, the master will have to bend over too much, this will significantly slow down the work, since over time his back may hurt.

Exterior finishing

In the final stages, when work on the machine table is completed, it is necessary to remember the appearance of a store-bought piece of furniture. In this case, no bolts protrude from its surface: they are not visible, since they are specially hidden and well secured. Making a table at home should not be of less quality, rather the opposite.

Comparison of the first and second stages of work: making a table and frame for a complete equipment

Another important stage, because the productivity of construction or repair, the quality and speed of cutting the wood will depend on the quality of the work performed. The previous actions were just as significant only if the necessary product of production was a machine tool, and not just a sawing bed. Further safety, as well as ease of work, depended on the quality of the base.

If you think about which part can be considered more important in a machine, then you need to take into account that the machine itself is a solid machine that cannot be divided. In this case, both the bed and the base are equally important. As was said above: the base is responsible for convenience and safety, but the frame also takes on some of the responsibilities, since a lot will depend on the quality of the wiring - the entire apparatus will flare up at the slightest spark, or this will not happen.

From this we can conclude: when making a circular saw with your own hands, it is necessary to treat both stages of the scheme of working on the device with equal importance, since a lot really depends on them:

the table acts as a fastener, it must be of high quality and withstand heavy loads, because during operation it will have to regularly carry various weights, and at the same time it is necessary to maintain the stability of the entire structure;
the bed is mounted on a table or base; the speed of repair and all progress in cutting the wood will depend on the quality of this stage of work; Also, wiring safety should be a top priority.

How to make a metal frame?

The bed, as noted above, is an important part of the machine, so you will have to devote a lot of time and diligence in order to achieve the desired result: extend the service life of the tool and protect your work time. Since the frame will be made of metal, it should be noted that this will require more time and effort than in the case of the base, where it was necessary to check the quality and strength of the wooden table.

What will be needed to make the bed?

The initial, most important part will be a sheet of metal (preferably steel), 1000 by 500 mm in size and 3 to 5 millimeters thick. In addition, you will need:

metal corner, approximately 45 by 45 millimeters;
bolts and nuts with M8 thread;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
drill;
clamp.

To make a saw, you need to return to the base, namely the table. It needs to be reinforced with a metal sheet, this will protect you from many problems during work. All this attachment occurs from the inside, and then it is necessary to cut suitable holes on the surface. The slots are made in the shape of a puzzle, this will help to complete the job accurately. What needs to be done for this will be described below.

How to carefully cut a hole on a metal sheet?

Of course, accuracy does not affect the operation of the machine, but you want everything to be perfect, otherwise there is a feeling of failure, inferiority, and sometimes the desire to work disappears.

Accuracy will ensure the right start. For everything to go well, you need to trace the outline of the puzzle, the place where the hole is formed. A 10 mm hole is drilled inside, this point is the beginning, from this moment, carefully using a special tool, they begin to cut out the puzzle along the contour. If your hands don’t tremble and everything is done with utmost care, then the work will turn out great.

In order to ensure high-quality fastening of the table, it is necessary to cut out four legs, 80 to 90 cm long. They are firmly welded to the surface. And in order to ensure high-quality and strong fastening, it is necessary to use the same corner at a distance of 10 centimeters from the table surface.

How to make a circular?

If you don’t have a special saw, and you need a powerful machine for the job, you can make a small stationary circular saw for your home. Such equipment, manufactured at a factory, is very expensive. A machine made by yourself will cost tens of times less. In order to create such a device, we need the following:

steel sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, approximately 1200x700 mm in size;
metal corner with a cross section of 50x50 millimeters;
220 Volt asynchronous motor;
pulley for motor;
shaft with bearings;
V-belt;
saw blade:
M10 threaded bolts;
clamps;
Bulgarian;
drill;
welding machine.

How to make a circular saw? First you need to purchase a shaft with bearings and a disk mount. You can buy it at a building materials store or order it from specialized workshops (they often have ready-made products that are cheaper than in the store).

Now you can cook the frame from the prepared corner. After this, it is installed on the corner. Next, the shaft and electric motor for the future saw are placed on the circular machine. After this, to continue manufacturing this part, two corners are welded into the frame, but with the flat sides facing up. This is necessary in order to mount the saw shaft and motor. The prepared frame is attached to the sheet and welded. Next, a hole for the disk is cut out in the sheet. At pre-selected locations, holes up to 10 millimeters are drilled for mounting the shaft and motor. At this point, our homemade circular machine will be completely ready for work. At the end of assembly, just tighten a special belt.

Conclusion

From all of the above, we can conclude that you can make a circular saw with your own hands efficiently and cheaply. And this option is more preferable than buying in a store, since the better the quality, the higher the price of the device. When making it yourself, you need to pay equal attention to the base and the cutting tool. Circular saws for wood can create real miracles in the hands of a master.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adapting existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new capabilities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular machine, a washing machine motor is quite suitable. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most critical component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

Those people who often do carpentry work for themselves or to order, simply need to have a stationary circular saw in their carpentry workshop. Working on a stationary machine is very convenient and, again, the back position is straight, which is important during long and monotonous work.

Today, stores have a large selection of machines and tools, but a simple carpenter cannot afford a couple of them and has to get out of the situation using natural ingenuity. For example, a master made a stationary saw from a hand-held circular saw, how did he do it? Let's look further.

Materials
1. hand-held circular saw
2. plywood 11 mm
3. M-8 bolts with furniture head
4. screws
5. switch
6. wire
7. timber 40x40
8. furniture guides

Tools
1. jigsaw
2. hand-held circular saw
3. drill
4. screwdriver
5. hammer
6. screwdriver
7. pliers
8. ruler

The process of creating a stationary circular saw.
And as was said above, the author made his circular saw from a manual circular saw, and no changes were made to the design of the saw. Here a table is simply made, and the saw sole is attached to the underside of the tabletop, where a cut for the disk is first made, holes are first drilled and then sawn. The base is created from plywood and 40x40 timber.

Then a tabletop is cut out of plywood; the author recommends using laminated or varnished, because the surface is even and smooth. As agreed, the cut is made, and holes are drilled in the corners for subsequent fastening.

A circular saw is attached to the underside of the tabletop using M-8 bolts, mainly the bolt heads should be sunk into the plywood.

The switch is installed and connected, the start button on the saw is fixed in the pressed position, and the switch is connected to the outlet, so there is no need to disassemble the saw or connect anything to it.

Also, for ease of work, a movable emphasis was placed on furniture guides.

The longitudinal stop is made of aluminum angle.

To adjust it, you need to loosen the bolts and move it to the distance required for subsequent work.

But as you understand, with this installation of the saw, 10-20 mm will be lost.

And this is exactly what the author came up with.

Also presented to your attention is video material from which you will learn a lot. Enjoy watching!

A circular saw is the basis of any woodworking industry. This applies to both industrial workshops and small home sawmills.

Thanks to the massive frame, such equipment can be used to unravel both small boards or plywood and massive logs or beams.

1 Unit design

Depending on the models and manufacturers (tabletop Ryobi and others), circular saws working on wood may have various additional equipment to make work easier and more convenient. But, both household and industrial sawing units have standard basic equipment. This includes a table with a slot for the saw to exit, the saw itself, a riving knife, a protective cover, guides, a motor and a drive. Let's consider the task of each component separately.

1.1 Bed

The bed is the main part of any machine. It is on it that all other elements of the unit are attached. The bed must be as strong, stable as possible and prevent vibrations, since they can significantly complicate the work process or even make it impossible. Therefore, Ryobi beds are typically made from cast iron or durable steel.

The beds can be:

cast. Cast frames are used in industrial workshops. They are heavy and are installed on a flat floor made of reinforced high-strength concrete;
welded Household sawing machines and mini saws are equipped with a welded frame. This table weighs much less and allows you to move the unit if necessary.

You can make a frame on which the Ryobi desktop mini machine will be mounted from any material, including reliable wooden beams. But such a table must be fastened with a sufficient number of stiffeners to achieve maximum strength.

1.2 Work surface

The working surface is a smooth table on which the material to be cut is placed. As a rule, the upper part of the work surface is made of cast iron, aluminum or smooth steel. There are guides and rulers on it for measurements and ease of installation of the material being cut.

Also, part of the working surface, in the place where the saw protrudes, should be removable, which greatly facilitates the process of replacing the saw wheel. The slot through which the saw protrudes must correspond to the thickness of the cutting tool. If the slot is larger, excess space will be clogged with chains and other waste, which will make sawing work impossible.

In this case, the insert can be made independently from hard wood or plastic. It is better to cut the gap using a working saw. Then it will completely fit her size.

1.3 Saw blade

Ryobi saw blades are produced in diameters from 140 to 300 mm. The larger the saw, the greater the thickness of the wood processed. When installing the disk, you must take into account that it can protrude no more than 1/3 of its diameter above the working surface.

Mini machines rarely have additional functions, but a professional woodworking machine usually has mechanisms for tilting the saw. This allows you to make angled cuts up to 45 degrees.

Before you start setting the angle, you need to study the instructions for the specific unit. The countertop protector may need to be removed or replaced.

1.4 Protective cover

A homemade circular machine is rarely equipped with operator protection mechanisms. Therefore, the sawing unit often causes injuries.

Professional machines, especially modern ones such as Ryobi, have a protective casing that is installed directly above the saw and protects the operator’s hands from contact with the saw blade. Besides, The protective casing performs the function of pressing the material. If the saw hits a knot or other difficult-to-pass area, the guard will prevent the beam from jumping.

1.5 Riving knife

A riving knife significantly extends the life of both the saw and the unit itself. In addition, it greatly simplifies the entire woodworking process.

When working with improperly dried wood, knotty areas of the material, etc. The saw may jam. A riving knife is installed to prevent such difficulties in operation. The technical parameters of the installation are as follows:

the knife is installed behind the saw blade, relative to its working stroke;
the distance between the bottom of the knife and the teeth is 3 mm;
the distance from the tip of the wedging machine to the teeth is 7-9 mm;

1.6 Longitudinal stop

When sawing long boards or beams lengthwise, it is very difficult to maintain a straight line without a guide. Therefore, a stop for longitudinal sawing is attached to the working surface.

The width of the cutting board is adjusted using the distance from the stop to the saw.

The stop must not move or sag. Therefore, it must be made of dense material and secured in at least two places.

1.7 Drive

The drive, in this case, includes the motor and the shaft on which the saw is mounted.

The circular machine must withstand a continuous woodworking process for 8-10 hours. And the speed should not be low (4500-6000 rpm) so that the cut is even and smooth. A two-phase or three-phase motor with a power of 1200-1500 W is suitable for this.

The shaft on which the saw will be mounted must have a diameter corresponding to the internal diameter of the circle and allow it to be firmly and securely fastened. The slightest play in the saw will lead to damage to the material being processed and the saw blade itself.

2 Circular jointer

To simplify woodworking, the circular machine can be equipped with a jointer.

You should not think that the circular jointer performs sawing and grinding at the same time. Their convenience is that both equipment is located on the same bed, the same working surface and operates from the same engine.

2.1 Types of units

Based on the scope of application and design features, we divide sawing machines into three subtypes:

Desktop. The desktop machine is used in domestic conditions. It does not require a permanent stationary frame of great weight and dimensions. The mini unit weighs no more than 25 kg, so it can be installed on any workbench or similar stand. After finishing work, it can easily be put away in the garage or storage room. The Ryobi mini table saw allows you to make cuts with a maximum depth of 75 mm.
With stand. These are also small units used in the domestic sphere. They are equipped with folding legs and a folding surface for sawing long materials. Convenient for transportation. The maximum cutting depth is 85 mm.
Stationary. Such units have a lot of weight and considerable dimensions. They are used in the professional field at medium and large woodworking enterprises. Allows you to cut boards and timber up to 125 mm thick.

2.2 What do you need to know about circular saws?

Regardless of whether you decide to purchase a Ryobi-type unit or make it yourself, you need to know some of the features and nuances of this equipment.

The difference between professional and household units lies not only in weight and dimensions, but also in the capabilities and safety of the equipment. Professional machines, unlike household ones, always equipped with additional casings and protection mechanisms, various devices. They definitely have an outlet for a chip suction.
The higher the engine power, the higher the performance of the unit. Three-phase motors are more efficient than two-phase ones.
The diameter of the saw indicates the maximum depth of cut; The possible size of the material being processed depends on the depth of the cut.
With engines of the same power, the rotation speed of the disk is inversely proportional to its diameter.
The faster the saw rotates, the smoother and cleaner the cut is.

2.3 DIY circular saw

You can make a manual circular machine with your own hands from an ordinary angle grinder, or “grinder”.

In this case, you won’t have to invent much. We buy a circular saw for the grinder, install it and a manual circular saw, one might say, it’s ready. However, we note that it is practically impossible to make an even cut while holding the grinder in your hands.

Therefore, you will have to make a small bed or workbench, make a working surface (a sheet of steel or just a chipboard board is suitable for this) and fix the grinder from below so that the saw comes out to the surface through the working slot. Such a manual machine will allow you to cut plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or boards up to 4 mm thick.