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Inserting a lock into a wooden door. Instructions for installing a lock into an interior door: tools and procedure What is needed to install a lock into a door

To prevent strong drafts from wandering around the apartment, and also simply so that a person can always have the opportunity to “isolate” his own space for a while for proper rest, the right solution would be to install locks on. This is not that difficult to do if you have the right tools and basic skills in working with them.

In this publication we’ll talk about how to insert a lock into an interior door yourself, without calling a locksmith. Different models of locking devices will be considered, which, by the way, may also make it possible to decide on the choice of the most suitable model.

Types of interior locks

The most popular for interior doors are, perhaps, simple latch locks with handles located on both sides. However, there are various life situations in which it becomes necessary to install more reliable locking devices in the door leaf. Therefore, further we will consider various options from which you can choose a suitable model.

So, today you can find the following types of locks on sale:

  • Halley lock (regular latch handle).
  • Latch handle with lock.
  • Mortise lock.
  • Padlock.
  • Magnetic lock.
  • Level castle.
  • The simplest latch and latch.

To have an idea of ​​the above-mentioned structures, it is worth considering them in more detail. And it’s probably necessary to start with the simplest of them.

Espagnolette

An espagnolette is the simplest device for closing doors. Most often it is installed in the toilet or bathroom. This lock is easy to install and operate, therefore, despite its primitiveness, it is still in great demand among consumers.


The convenience of this device is that even a child can handle its operation. Espagnols can be installed either on one side of the door (from the inside of the room - so that you can close it), or on both sides - so that the door does not slam in drafts.

Latch

A latch is a simple device that allows you to lock a room from the inside. This lock is a crossbar (plate or rod), which progressively moves from left to right by turning a special handle.


The latch can be called the simplest device after the latch. There are different models of bolts - most of them are simply fixed to the surface of the door leaf. But there are also designs that cut into the end of the door.

Latches can also be installed on the front door as an auxiliary locking device.

Rim lock

The rim lock is simple in design and installation, so the demand for such products does not fall. However, these models are rarely installed on interior doors - more often they are used as a second (third) lock at the entrance to the apartment. However, this locking device is also suitable for, for example, a communal apartment, when several families live in different rooms.


Modern overhead models are equipped with an aesthetic body, so they can even become a decorative element of interior design. In addition, they are easy to use. The lock does not require a complicated mortise - it is installed on the door leaf from the closing side, and for the key cylinder it is enough to drill only one through hole of the required diameter. Deep cutting of grooves from the end of the door is not expected.

Halley lock with handles

This type of lock has the simplest mechanism and is designed specifically for installation on interior doors. Its design consists of a cylinder, a metal or plastic tongue and handles with which the tongue is controlled.


The lock is simple and reliable to use and can have a variety of designs, so it can be chosen for any door style. The disadvantage of this design is that the door from either side can be opened by simply pressing the handle. That is, the tongue cannot be fixed in one position, and in order to be able to “isolate” in the room, another bolt or latch will need to be installed.

Latch lock with lock

The design of this lock can be called very similar to a regular latch, but it differs in that it is equipped with a latch that blocks the door from opening. This type of locks is divided into push-button and lever versions. Lever, I must say, is more practical and reliable. A push-button lock is no less reliable, but if a draft occurs, the door may accidentally lock if it slams hard. True, as a rule, the possibility of emergency opening is provided from the outside, just in case.


A lock equipped with a lock has a number of advantages - easy installation, simple design and a wide range of models. It is the best option for interior doors, as it allows you to close the room if there is a need for privacy.

When purchasing such a product, you should check that the tongue moves smoothly and that it returns inside the door when the handle is turned. If the tongue does not go completely into the door leaf, it means that the lock spring is not working well enough.

Mortise lock

In some cases, for example, if two families live in an apartment, a lock is required for interior doors, which can be locked with a key if necessary. For this purpose, a mortise model of a locking device equipped with a key cylinder is suitable. In appearance, it resembles a lock for entrance doors and has the same, but simpler and less resistant to breaking mechanism.


Lock cylinders for indoor use can be of two types - “key-turner” and “key-key”. In the first case, upon entering the room, you do not have to insert a key into the cylinder to close it - you just need to turn the turntable.

This type of lock, thanks to its simple design, is quite reliable and durable.


The lever lock also belongs to the category of mortise devices; it is distinguished by its reliability and high degree of protection. This version of the locking device is used for both entrance and interior doors. To fix the latch tongue, these models use lever plates with grooves of different shapes. Each lever has a specific groove marked on the key. The lock can only be opened if the plates are in the correct position, clearing the passage for the movement of the bolt. Such locks on internal doors are often installed in office buildings; they are used extremely rarely in residential premises.

The disadvantages of mortise locks include the relative complexity of installation, as well as the dependence of the choice of device on the thickness of the door, since for it you will have to select a deep and rather high groove from the end in the door leaf.

Magnetic lock

It must be said that few people are familiar with such a mechanism as a magnetic lock. Meanwhile, it is very well suited for closing bedrooms and children's rooms, as it operates almost silently.


The operating principle of magnetic locks can be compared to magnets installed on cabinet doors. The device consists of two magnetic or magnetic and steel pads, one of which is fixed to the door frame, the other is mounted in the door leaf. When closing the door, the distance between the magnets shortens and they attract each other, holding the leaf in the door frame until the lock is unlocked.

The mechanism opens by turning the handle or even simply by pressing on the door with force. When the canvas is opened, the distance between the magnets naturally increases, so their interaction stops.

Thanks to their simple design, magnetic locks are durable and easy to use.

The advantages of these types of structures include the following:

  • The locks are not equipped with a supporting spring, which is installed in all other types of locks and is an “Achilles heel” - it often either weakens or fails.
  • The absence of a tongue simplifies the operation of the mechanism.
  • The door opens silently, which is especially important for children's rooms.
  • Most locks have standard dimensions, so they are suitable for different types of doors.
  • Magnets, when interacting with each other, also act as a canvas.

There are several types of magnetic devices - these are passive, electromagnetic and equipped with a crossbar.


  • Passive lock design consists of a magnet installed on the door and a metal plate attached to the door frame. When two elements approach each other, a magnetic field is formed between them, thanks to which the canvas is fixed in the box. It takes a lot of force to open a door that is closed with a magnet. Such locks are often mounted on sliding doors or accordion doors.

  • A lock equipped with a bolt has a rather complex design. In addition to the magnet, it includes a mechanical part. Externally, such models are practically no different from conventional locking devices, but, unlike them, a magnetic lock does not have a pressure spring. The bolt (tongue) is made of magnetized metal and, when the door is closed, it spontaneously fits into the groove of the strip attached to the door frame. The door opens after pressing the handle, at this moment the magnets are mechanically moved apart, the bolt is pulled into the lock body.

This type of magnetic locks is highly reliable, which is why it is popular among consumers.


  • Electromagnetic mechanisms Most often they are installed at the entrance to the apartment, but if desired and financially possible, they can also be installed on interior doors. This version of the locking device can be opened using a card, key or remote control. True, such a lock can only work when it is connected to a power source - without electricity, the lock does not work.

The design of the lock includes its magnetic part and a strike plate. When locked, the supplied power generates a high-intensity electromagnetic field and the door cannot be opened. To open, a special key, card or pressing a button interrupts the power supply to the electromagnet coil for a certain time - the field disappears, the blade is not attracted to the strike plate.

The lock is characterized by silent operation and reliability in the presence of an uninterruptible power supply. The disadvantages of these models include their high cost and impressive size. And, by and large, for interior doors this still looks like overkill.

Self-installation of an interior lock

Tools for work

Naturally, if you decide to install the lock yourself, you will have to prepare some tools, a list of which is given below:

  • Measuring devices - tape measure (ruler) and construction square.
  • A simple pencil for marking.
  • Stationery knife.
  • Chisels 10 and 20 mm wide.
  • Electric drill with a set of drills. So, for the type of locks shown below, you will need a feather drill with a width of 22÷23 mm, ordinary wood drills with a diameter of 3 and 10 mm, a core drill with a diameter of 50÷54 mm, depending on the specific model.
  • Hammer.

Installation of an interior latch lock with a latch

This section will discuss the installation of a latch lock, since it is the most common option used in interior doors. Following the step-by-step instructions, installing a lock in the door leaf will not be difficult for most owners. There is no need to rush - special attention is paid to the accuracy of the markings, otherwise it may happen that the mechanism simply will not work.

The easiest way to install a lock is on a wooden door. It is more difficult if the canvas is made of MDF board. Natural wood, unlike other materials based on it, is easier to drill and does not crumble, maintaining its given shape. If the door is made of MDF, and there is no experience in installing locks, then for a guaranteed result it is better to entrust the installation of the locking device to a specialist.


All necessary parts must be included in the purchased mechanism - this must be checked upon purchase.

In this case, the kit includes the following parts:

  • Two handles. In this model they are given an L-shape, but in other modifications they can be spherical.
  • Cylinder locking mechanism: usually with a key on one side, and with a manual stop on the other.
  • Mounting screws connecting cylinder mechanisms located on opposite sides of the door.
  • A latch-tab in a housing with its own spring mechanism.”
  • Two decorative rosettes covering the cylinder mechanisms and mounting screws.

The table below shows the step-by-step process of installing such a model:

IllustrationBrief description of the operations performed
The first thing you need to do is to very carefully study the instructions for assembling and installing the lock provided by its manufacturer.
As a rule, such a “manual” is included in the general delivery package.
Next, you should remove all the parts of the mechanism from the packaging and try to assemble them into a common structure - while “on your knees,” that is, outside the door. This will help you fully understand the principle of connection and interaction of all parts and assemblies of the lock.
In addition, all the tools necessary for the job are immediately prepared. This illustration shows a chisel and a feather drill.
As mentioned above, you will need a core drill to drill a through hole in the door to install the cylinder mechanism. This hole will then be covered with handle rosettes.
To be sure that the crown will fit the chosen model, you should attach it to one of the parts of the lock.
It is clear that the window cut out with a crown should be smaller than the diameter of the rosettes, but sufficient for the mechanism and for the screws holding the two halves of the lock together.
The next stage is marking the door, and it should be approached as responsibly as possible. If an error can be made with the installation height of the lock - this will not affect its performance, then the determination of the point - the center (axis) of installation of the cylinder mechanism must be determined extremely accurately.
As a rule, locks on interior doors are installed at a height of 900÷1100 mm from the bottom of the door. First of all, this distance is laid down on the canvas and marked with a pencil.
It is at this horizontal level that all other marking points will be applied.
From the intended point, strictly horizontal lines are drawn along the front surface of the door leaf and along its end. To do this, you should definitely use a square, since even a very small mistake can lead to the impossibility of subsequent installation of the lock or the need to cut the holes wider, which can ultimately ruin the appearance of the door.
Next, the required distance (specified in the installation instructions) is set off from the corner on this marked line and the center of the through round window is marked to accommodate the lock mechanism.
Sometimes the task is simplified - the manufacturer includes a full-size paper template with the instructions, and it is difficult to make a mistake with the center of this window.
On the end side, on the drawn line, it is necessary to find and accurately mark the middle of the door thickness.
The next step is to drill a hole at the end of the blade using a drill and a 22 mm wide drill bit to the depth specified in the instructions.
This depth should allow the cylindrical body of the latch to freely enter the resulting socket, taking into account the fact that the mounting plate of this mechanism will be recessed into the wood at the end of the door.
It is very important to carry out drilling, holding the drill exactly at a right angle relative to the plane of the end, so that the socket does not move to the side.
Next, a core drill is clamped into the drill chuck.
The center of the drill is set at the point marked on the main plane of the blade, and drilling begins.
The process continues until the center drill of the crown comes out of the back of the door.
Then the drill is installed in the hole formed on the other side of the door, and drilling is done again. At this stage, work is carried out until a through hole is formed in the canvas.
If you try to drill such a round through window in one pass, only on one side, then the teeth of the bit at the exit from the wood will almost certainly break the upper layers of wood fibers, and the edges will be extremely sloppy.
Now you can try on the latch.
It is inserted into the end groove - it must fit completely into it.
If the latch does not go all the way in, the hole will have to be deepened somewhat.
In a large through opening, drilled with a crown, approximately in its center, there should be a figured socket through which the pin of the cylinder mechanism will pass.
The latch mounting panel is outlined on the end of the door with a pencil. This must be done quite accurately, since along this contour a portion of the wood will be selected for the thickness of the panel.
At the same stage, the points of the holes for the fasteners are marked, and after removing the latch, holes are drilled at these points with a thin drill (3 mm).
Next, take a chisel 20 mm wide and a hammer.
the cutting edge is set on the contour line and the chisel is lightly struck with a hammer so that the blade enters the wood to a depth approximately equal to the thickness of the metal plate.
The chisel is then pressed against the top edge of the intended area at an angle, beveled edge down. And again the teardrop is hit with a hammer, since it is necessary to remove the wood from the area previously marked with a chisel.
If necessary, the finished groove is slightly modified with a chisel by hand. You should end up with a recess that is even in shape and depth for the latch mounting plate.
Once the wood has been selected, the latch is placed back into the groove.
The plate should be flush with the end of the blade. If it protrudes even a little, you will have to remove the latch and modify the groove.
Next, the latch is fixed in the groove with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in with a screwdriver.
Now it's time to install the handle on one side. First, a non-separable one is installed, that is, the one into which the screws that tighten both sides of the lock will be screwed.
The cylinder of this handle is inserted into a hole drilled with a core drill. In this case, the central core of the cylinder mechanism must pass through the figured socket of the latch mechanism
Then the second handle with a cylinder mechanism is taken.
It, together with the socket, should be removed from the cylinder using the special key included in the lock kit. The key is used to press the stopper through the existing hole - and the handle and socket are removed.
Under the rosette there is a round plate with holes for installing screws that will fasten the two handles together.
A cylinder mechanism with a mounting round plate is installed on the other side of the door in a drilled groove so that the mounting holes coincide with the holes in the latch and the threaded sockets located on the handle installed on the other side of the leaf.
Next, a screw is screwed into each of the holes, which should tighten the handles on both sides of the door together. In this case, the rotary core of the lock must finally kinematically connect both handles and the latch mechanism.
Then, a socket with a handle is put on the cylinder, which is simply pressed and latched - without using a key.
Now you can test the installed lock.
If the handles are pressed easily, without jamming, and the latch moves simultaneously with their pressing, and after removing the force, the handle independently returns to its original position, then the installation has been completed correctly.
All that remains is to install the lock mate in the door frame. To do this, follow these steps:
- the lock handle is pressed and the door is closed into the door frame;
- lines are drawn on the jamb that determine the height of the latch itself and the plate through which it moves;
- the distance from the corner of the door end to the sharp edge of the latch is measured;
- the same distance is placed on the door frame - this will be the beginning of the groove into which the latch will fit;
- according to the marks made on the jamb, it is necessary to attach the mating part of the lock and circle it with a pencil;
- after this, using a feather drill, the central zone of the lock’s counterpart is drilled, and then holes for fastening are drilled with a thin drill;
- from the jamb, in the same way as earlier from the end of the door, at the intended boundary it is necessary to select the top layer of wood to the thickness of the plate of the counter part, since it must stand flush with the surface of the jamb;
- the plate is installed in place and screwed with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the installation of the latch lock is completed, and the door can be closed. If all measurements were made correctly, the canvas will easily be locked in the closed position.

Installation of a mortise lock

Installing a mortise lock is a somewhat more complicated task, since it involves a fairly large amount of wood sampling when forming a socket for the locking device body. However, you can handle such an installation yourself, you just have to be patient and do everything very carefully.


The table below will discuss the stages of “installation” work for installing a mortise lock:

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
When creating a nest for a mortise lock, work also begins with marking.
The installation height of the lock from the floor can vary from 900 to 1100 mm. In the example shown, the lock handle will be at a height of 1050 mm from the bottom edge of the door.
The markings are made with a pencil using a construction angle. On the end side of the door, the upper and lower boundaries of the lock, as well as the front fastening plate, are marked.
In addition, on the main plane of the door, dots mark the locations of future holes for installing a handle and a turnkey cylinder.
A full-size paper template may also be included with the lock.
It will be much easier to cut a deep groove if you select the main part of the wood with several large diameter holes located in a row. Therefore, next, the middle of the door thickness is determined in the place where the lock will cut in, a vertical center line is drawn, and the centers of the holes that will be drilled are outlined.
The depth of the holes should be 5 mm greater than the depth of the lock body.
To ensure that the depth of all holes is the same, a special limiter is installed on the drill. If it is not there, then you can simply make a mark on the drill using a strip of electrical tape.
The diameter of the drill should ideally be equal to the width of the lock body.
Holes are drilled at the designated points, starting from the top, using an electric drill. They should be located as close to each other as possible.
When working, the drill must be installed and held at a right angle to the end of the door, otherwise the lock may become crooked.
It is especially important to drill the top and bottom holes evenly, which, in principle, form the edges of the top and bottom of the selected space and set the overall shape of the nest.
After the main part of the wood from the groove has been selected using a drill, the internal space must be leveled using a chisel and hammer, removing any remaining wood.
Having aligned the walls, top and bottom of the groove, a lock is installed in it for fitting. If necessary, the space of the seat is cleaned and leveled, also using a chisel and hammer.
Once the lock slot is ready, you need to mark the location for the front mounting plate. It is marked with a pencil, then the outline is filled with a chisel to the depth of the thickness of the strip, since it must be embedded flush with the surface of the end of the door.
Then, a layer of wood is selected from the marked area - this will become a seat for the plate.
After this, you should install a lock in the socket and determine the points at the end where small-diameter holes for fasteners will be drilled. The holes are drilled after the lock is removed from the groove.
The next step is to make holes for the door handle and the turnkey mechanism. The centers of these holes should once again be specified using a square and checked against the dimensions indicated in the diagram.
For drilling, a feather drill of the required width corresponding to the size of the cylinder mechanism of the handle and the diameter of the cylinder is used.
Drilling is done from one side of the door until the end of the drill appears on the other side. This will be the point at which it will be necessary to install a drill for counter-drilling the blade, before joining the channels
Now all that remains is to assemble and secure all the parts of the lock into a single structure.
To do this, a lock is installed in the socket and fixed from the end side to the door with two self-tapping screws.
Further. The cylinder is inserted into its place and secured using the screw included with the lock.
After this, you need to insert the key and check the operation of the lock by turning it to close and open.
If the lock works without failures, then you can attach the handles. To do this, a core having a quadrangular cross-section is inserted into the hole, then handles are put on it on both sides, which are fixed to the door leaf with self-tapping screws.
The final stage is the installation of the strike plate on the door frame.
To make it easier to determine the location of drilling holes for the bolt and latch tongue, their ends are thickly lubricated with toothpaste. Then close the door and turn the key to release the bolt - the location of the lock parts will be imprinted on the door frame. Based on these marks, you need to drill holes using a feather drill, or select a socket using a chisel and hammer.
The depth of the grooves should be 5 mm greater than the length of the bolt and tongue.
Since the striker must be installed flush with the surface of the box, it is applied to the installation site, outlined with a pencil, and from this place wood is selected to the thickness of the plate.
Once the seat is ready, the strike plate is installed in place and secured with self-tapping screws.
Next, final tests of the mechanism can be performed. If the bolt and tongue move smoothly when turning the handle and key, do not rest against the bar or rub against it, the lock is ready for use.

Read the step-by-step instructions from our new article on our portal.

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Having carefully studied the installation instructions for various locks, which are most often installed on interior doors, you can cope with this task yourself without much difficulty. That is, the money that could have gone to the master will remain in the family

At the end of the publication, there is a video in which the master shows in great detail and clearly his work on installing an interior lock.

Video: Master class on installing a lock on an interior door

Sections of the article:

Quite often, doors do not have locks installed at the time of sale. Of course, you can order their installation additionally. However, the cost of a product with installed fittings is much higher, and for budget repairs such an expense will most likely be unjustified. Having basic knowledge of carpentry, you can embed a lock into an interior door yourself.

Selection of locking mechanism

Before starting work, decide on the type of lock to be installed, since different models have their own nuances in preparing holes in the door leaf. So, when selecting a lock, the main attention should be focused on the appearance of the product. In most cases, mortise locking mechanisms for interior doors are equipped with door handles or are integral with it.

If there are several doors in the room, the selected fittings should be as close as possible to the existing locks or be combined with them.

Since there are a huge number of mortise locks, they are classified conditionally into the following types:

  • Push with straight shapes;
  • Round or knobs.

Locks are also divided according to the type of fixation of the reed element. So there are roller, halyard and magnetic locks. Roller ones move with the help of a spring and roller elements. Bevel locks are the most common mechanisms and can secure the position of the latch if necessary. In the magnetic system, the tongue is attracted by a magnet, and the installed spring blocks the movement.

In addition to such mechanisms, cylinder, disk and lever locks are used to embed into interior doors. For sliding sliding doors, locking systems with an L-shaped crossbar are installed. This design makes it easy to grip the plate. Position adjustment is carried out using a rotary plate.

Tools and preparation for work

In order for the installation of a lock on an interior door to be faster and of higher quality, it is necessary to initially prepare all the tools necessary for the work. So, during the preparation and installation process you will need:

  • Lock;
  • Electric drill with a set of feather-type wood drills or crowns;
  • A simple or construction pencil for marking. It is possible to use colored crayons with a contrasting shade for the canvas;
  • Tape measure or centimeter, as well as a ruler, square;
  • Chisel;
  • Carpenter's knife;
  • Hammer. It is better to take a light and small size for ease of use;
  • File;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • Bit.

Features of working with various materials

Before the process of cutting a hole in the door itself, it is necessary to carefully take all the necessary measurements. In addition, you should take into account the material from which the door leaf is made. This need arises due to the peculiarities of the filling of door structures.

The easiest door to work with is a door made of natural wood. However, such products are not very common nowadays. It is also not too difficult to cut a hole for a lock in sheets with a protective laminated layer applied. But for high-quality execution and to ensure the integrity of the door surface, it is necessary to use a drill with a special “crown” attachment.

One of the most difficult locking mechanisms to install is an interior door made of MDF. When working with it, it is necessary to take into account that almost always manufacturers place an additional wooden block inside such canvases at approximately a height of 90 to 110 cm.

Determining the optimal installation location

To install locks on interior doors, you need to determine the location of the handle that is comfortable for use. Undoubtedly, according to GOST, the height at which the lock is recommended to be installed is 100 ± 10 cm. However, such calculations were performed for people of average height.

To determine the comfortable height of the handle with a lock, you should focus on the level of your elbow. This height of the lock is the most convenient for a particular person.

If you want to insert a lock into an interior door not on the handle mechanism itself, but under it, you should opt for push products. To install such a lock, a fairly large section of the inside of the door is drilled from the end side. In addition, it is necessary to drill through holes for the keyhole and the rotary locking element, as well as square holes for mounting handles.

Installation of the push mechanism

Initially, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the internal hole. To do this, the existing lock is applied to the side of the door so that the decorative strip lies in the same plane as the end of the door. The product is outlined with a simple pencil. After this, using a corner, the lines are connected on the end of the door.

Drilling a hole deep into the blade is done with a chisel drill. The hole of the required size is selected using a hammer and chisel. The place for the faceplate is selected using a chisel.

Using a square, mark the location of the square for the door handles and keyhole. After this, the holes are drilled. This procedure is performed alternately on both sides of the canvas to avoid damage to the coating.

After preparing and cleaning all mounting holes from sawdust, the lock is installed in the interior door and secured with a escutcheon using self-tapping screws. After installing the handles on the squares and securing them with self-tapping screws, a decorative ring is applied. Its installation is carried out through flange holes.

The final stage of installation is to install the strike plate by using a chisel to make a recess and drill a hole for the tongue.

Handle-lock knob

This castle is one of the most popular. This trend is explained by the original appearance of the product and ease of use. However, the knob handle is not always equipped with a lock. The product may have a rotary type latch with a latch tongue or a spring reed element without the possibility of fixation.

To carry out installation, it is necessary to drill a hole of the appropriate size using a “crown” attachment.

Knob installation

In most cases, installing a lock on an interior door is done on an already hung door leaf. Of course, it is permissible to embed a lock into a removed door, however, to install the strike plate and cut a hole for the tongue, a measurement is required on the fixed door leaf. This will allow you to effectively compare all design elements.

It is worth knowing that the procedure for inserting a locking system of this type can be carried out at any convenient height of the door leaf. However, when working with frame doors, you should perform the insertion carefully in order to avoid damage to the door leaf. The task is made easier by the manufacturer's installed bar for inserting the handle and lock, located at a distance of 100 cm from the floor.

To install the lock, 2 holes are cut: in the end part for the latch and in the leaf to accommodate the rotary handle of the product. Initially, you need to do the marking. The distance from the bottom of the door is 96.5 cm. The distance from the end of the door is based on the length of the lock latch. On average, this figure is 6-7 cm. The intersection point of these lines is the center of the hole for the knob handle.

Drilling a hole in the canvas is carried out in several stages. After installing a “crown” attachment of a suitable diameter into the drill, partial drilling is performed on one side of the door. Initially, you can insert the nozzle approximately halfway into the canvas. After this, drilling is done from the reverse side. This time a through hole is drilled. Such measures are necessary to ensure the integrity of the canvas and protection against chipping.

After this, a feather-type attachment for woodworking is installed in the electric drill. The hole for the latch is drilled from the end part of the blade after mandatory marking. Expanding the hole to the required size is done using a chisel.

A latch is inserted into the hole thus obtained. To select a place for mounting the strip, the part itself is first placed on the end and outlined with a pencil. When working with a veneered door, you must carefully cut through the required shaped layer of coating. In order to embed a lock into an interior door, a carpenter's knife is used. After sampling, the latch is secured using self-tapping screws.

To install the knob handle, you need to disassemble its upper part and remove the decorative ring. The outer part of the product, which has bushings for screws, is applied to the prepared hole. The inner part is applied to the opposite side of the canvas and both halves are connected with screws. After these procedures, a decorative ring is applied. The handle is installed by pressing until it clicks.

The strike plate is mounted where the tongue stops. A hole for it is drilled, and the place for the strip is prepared with a chisel. The plank is secured with self-tapping screws.

Additional accessories

When using a mortise lock, dust often collects in the hole in the strike plate, which is intended to hold the tongue, and chips also form in the hole. Such phenomena worsen the operation of the mechanism and the design of the interior door as a whole.

To avoid such consequences for the strike plate, there are special cell attachments for the reed element. In most cases, such a cell is made of durable plastic and is mounted under the strike plate.

Only mortise locks are inserted into interior doors, since overhead locks will look somewhat bulky and too noticeable on one of their sides. This work is not at all difficult to do, especially for those people who have dealt with something like this at least once. In this article we will look at how to correctly select, install and adjust locks of this type.

Lock selection

The most common type of lock for a wooden interior door is a cylinder mechanism with two round or L-shaped handles and a latch. They are available in several versions, for example, with or without a locking device. In the first case, it is possible to close the door on one side, thereby blocking its opening with the handle on the other side. That is, you can lock yourself in the bedroom and relax without fear that someone will enter the room and find you undressed. A lock without a locking device is installed only so that the door can be tightly closed with a latch, protecting it from drafts, odors from the kitchen or noise from other rooms.

The locking device does not have to be a mechanism with a key. There are also locks that have conventional lockers of various forms embedded in the main handle, for example, levers or buttons. The range of locks in building materials stores is quite wide, so there shouldn’t be any problems with choosing.

The option with a cylinder and keys is, in fact, a simplified device for the front door lock. Such a lock can usually be unlocked from both sides without the fear of becoming a prisoner in your own office, as in cases where a lock with a lock is installed on the door. The tongue in such doors is activated when you press the handle. If the door serves as a simple barrier from drafts, and does not serve as a fence for personal space (with a locking device), then it is better to choose a lock with a plastic latch. It makes less noise, which is very annoying at night when family “night owls” open and close the door.

If you look at it, different versions of devices are installed on the doors of rooms with a specific function:

  • Locks with key cylinders on both sides are suitable for offices;
  • for bedrooms, toilets, baths and showers - devices with interlocks from the inside;
  • for children's rooms, newfangled and expensive magnetic locks are an ideal option;
  • for kitchens, living rooms and utility rooms, you can limit yourself to ordinary locks with handles and a latch.

But in any case, all devices must be mortise. When choosing, you must make sure that the interior fabrics in your home have the appropriate thickness for the selected fittings. Standard doors usually have unequal leaf thickness: some are at least 35 mm, others are 45 mm. They need appropriate fittings to avoid the lock being as thick as the door.

In addition, when choosing fittings, you need to pay attention to the overall interior of the home and rooms in particular. The door array is also of great importance. For example, it is impossible to install locking devices designed for a door weighing 40 kg onto a door leaf weighing 70 kg. It would be a bad idea to embed a lock with miniature handles and a weak return spring into a canvas that has huge dimensions.

As for the magnetic lock mentioned above, such a device has a movable positively charged core (bolt) inside, which begins to operate only when the door is closed. In this position, it finds itself opposite a negatively charged magnetic strip installed on the door hatch. The bolt is attracted by the bar and securely fixes the door in the closed position. To open the door, you need to turn the handle, which disconnects (unlocks) the magnets. After opening the door, the crossbar is no longer affected by the force of interaction between magnets of different polarities, so it returns to its place. The completely silent device is gaining popularity, which is currently restrained only by the rather high price of designs of this type.

There are also special locking devices for sliding interior doors. They cut into the canvas, have the same rotary handles and a bar on the box. The main difference between such devices is their hook-shaped latch, which is why this lock is called “harpoon”.

Preparation

It doesn’t matter which lock was chosen for a particular interior door, preparation for installation is not much different from its type. You can give some advice: if you plan to install locks on all the interior doors of an apartment or house, then it is best to do this on door leaves that have been removed from their hinges. Any professional will tell you this. If you decide to install a locking device in only one door, and removing it from its hinges presents certain difficulties, then it is better to mount the lock in the “standing” position.

Before approaching the door with the tool, you need to carefully examine the purchased model of the locking mechanism, once again check the presence of all the necessary parts and fasteners with the description of the equipment, fully read the instructions and understand the installation diagram of the device. All this must be included with the product.

Armed with knowledge and making sure that the kit is complete, you should decide at what height you will need to install the device. Typically, locks are installed at a height of 100 to 150 cm from the floor surface. Having chosen the height, you can make a preliminary mark on the canvas and think about the tool that will be needed to insert the existing lock.

Required Tools

Let's consider the option of inserting the simplest device with two handles and a latch.

To work you will need:

  • chisel;
  • electric drill with drills;
  • 22 mm feather drill;
  • wood cutter with a diameter of 50 mm;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • hammer;
  • measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure);
  • washable marker or pencil.

An electric drill is needed not only for drilling holes for fasteners, it is also useful for working with a feather drill and a cutter. You will need to drill a hole for the lock with a feather drill, and with a milling cutter you will need to drill recesses for the decorative overlays of the handles. Of course, it is more accurate to carry out such work with a special tool - a milling cutter, which is designed specifically for such cuts in wood, but due to its high cost, it is more often used by professionals who earn their living from carpentry.

Making a groove

When installing the lock, it will be necessary to make grooves for the latch support plate on the end side of the door leaf to a depth of 3-5 mm (depending on the model), as well as for the back strip on the door block.

This is done with your own hands using a chisel and a hammer using the following technology:

  1. the planks are applied to their future location and outlined around the perimeter with a pencil or thin marker;
  2. According to the marked dimensions, the platform is carefully cut out to a shallow depth with a chisel and hammer;
  3. Then the work needs to be continued, monitoring the depth - it should be strictly according to the thickness of the plates, since neither excess depth nor too shallow a groove is desirable;
  4. Having cut out the grooves, they are cleaned of irregularities and debris.

In case of excessive penetration, you will have to eliminate the error with a layer of plastic or other material, which, of course, will not improve the operational reliability of the device.

Device installation

Before embedding the lock, you need to make markings. All insertion operations, starting with marking, are easy to carry out yourself. Typically, such fittings are installed right in the middle of the door leaf at one edge. Therefore, a small line using a tape measure marks the middle of the leaf (for a standard door from its bottom this will be a distance of 95 cm or so in any direction). Then, from the edge of the canvas at which the lock will be embedded, use a square to mark 6 cm until it intersects with the previous mark.

A noticeable dot is placed at the intersection of the two marks. It is this point that will be the center through which the axis of the handles and the lock will pass if the lock needs to be assembled with a lock. There will also be a center for drilling a recess for decorating the handles.

  • Using the same square, we transfer the central point to the side of the door, right in the middle of the thickness of the leaf. Here will be the center of the cylindrical body of the lock (latch, tongue).
  • Now you need to take a feather drill, insert it into an electric drill and drill a hole for the lock body. In this case, you should maintain a strict perpendicular position of the drill axis in relation to the sidewall of the door leaf. The hole depth is about 35 mm.
  • It is necessary to replace the feather drill in the drill with a milling cutter. This tool drills a hole for the handles. Here, too, you need to carefully monitor the position of the tool so that it is perpendicular to the door in both the horizontal and vertical planes. In addition, it is impossible to allow through drilling of the door on one side. The cutter has a sharp tip protruding along the axis, similar to the feather of the previous drill, so it will serve as a guide for finishing the work. When this tip drills the opposite side of the blade, then move with the cutter to the other side and drill a hole from there to avoid damage to the blade at the point where the cutter exits.

  • The next step is to use a feather drill to adjust the size of the exit hole for the latch. It should be within 23 mm (our drill was 22 mm). To do this, you simply need to adjust the hole to size by inserting and fitting the lock cylinder to the hole.
  • After this, it is necessary to clean the resulting two holes, connecting to each other perpendicularly along the axes, from dust, sawdust and burrs.
  • We insert the lock cylinder into the corresponding hole and make a groove for its support plate using a chisel and hammer in the manner described above. When the seat for the latch is ready, we install it in place, drill holes for the fastening screws with a thin drill and attach the lock to the door with them.
  • Now you can, by inserting one of the handles into the hole in the lock, mark the exact location of the strike plate. To do this, cover the tongue with some kind of dye and, holding the tongue in a recessed state with a handle, close the door completely. After making sure that the door is closed tightly, you need to release the handle, the latch will rest against the door block and make a mark. And already from this mark you can calculate the installation location of the striker. Make a sample for it with a chisel and hammer, as described above. Upon completion of the groove, install the bar in place and secure it with self-tapping screws.

Installing door locks using a plunge router is much better and easier. The milling machine also comes with various templates for working with many known types of locks. With the help of the carriage and these templates, all the work is done on installing not only various fittings, but also on the correct installation of the door itself.

Assembly and adjustment

All that remains is to finally assemble the lock, adjust its operation if necessary, and finally secure all the fasteners. It’s worth noting right away that you don’t need to be too zealous with fasteners, especially in those locks where parts of the device are fastened together from different sides of the blade. Tightening the screws too hard can deform the housing, and the locking mechanism will be difficult to work, even jamming.

Since the latch is already in the right place, it is necessary to insert the handles. The first step is to install the handle with mounting screws, which must be unscrewed before installation. After this, the handle is inserted with its square axis into the hole in the lock and into its own hole in the blade until it stops.

Coming home, every person wants to feel completely protected from negativity, especially that hovering in the open spaces of the streets. He calms down as soon as he finds himself behind a high-quality, reliable door, equipped with a good, strong lock.

Installing a lock on a door separating the home space from the outside world is a very complex and very responsible process that does not accept inaccuracies and haste. Here every little thing and detail takes on special importance. However, if you scrupulously follow the correct technological process and show extreme care, such work can be done by a completely ordinary person who does not have highly specialized knowledge or skills.

Where to start installing a door lock with your own hands?

It is necessary to clearly decide where to start and how to competently begin installing locking devices on the door. First you need to choose a lock option, which is not so easy to do. On today's market you can find a wide range of imported and domestic samples, differing in their quality characteristics and price indicators.

Watch the video on how to install a lock on a door with your own hands

The purchase of a specific model directly depends on numerous components, the most significant of which are operating conditions and pricing policy. Although, in this situation there is no need to strive to get excessively cheap, since such savings are not justified in practice.

It is more advisable to spend some money one day and buy an expensive, but high-quality and reliable lock. Otherwise, you will have to regularly spend time and money on purchasing cheap products that have only one advantage - a low price.

Types of door locks

Today in construction markets you can find three popular types of locks suitable for use on doors (entrance doors).

1. Padlocks– are primarily used for locking gates and large doors located on hangars or garages, all kinds of sheds, etc. This type of locking device is not popular for closing doors in residential buildings or apartments. For this reason, they will not be subject to further consideration.

2. Rim locks– very simple to install, but well-preserving locking structures. Such locks are locked externally with a special key, and on the inside of the door with a revolving handle, with the additional use of a metal chain for safety.

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3. Mortise locks- a particularly common option, characterized by better external aesthetics and greater installation complexity. Such mechanisms do not interfere with the attractive appearance of the door leaf. In terms of reliability, they are somewhat superior to their overhead counterparts.

Each of the presented types of locks has its own disadvantages and advantages. However, none of the options, even the most reliable and expensive, can guarantee good protection of a house (apartment) in the event of illiterate or careless installation.

Attention! To fully ensure the safety of your own home and your family when installing a door lock yourself, you must strictly follow the rules and technical principles of a competent sequence of work!

Required set of tools

To minimize the time spent on installing a lock, you will need a pre-prepared set of necessary tools. To perform such work there is no need to buy any expensive, special equipment. Usually, everything you need is present in every home.

To install the lock you will need:

- hammer (mallet);

— electric drill with a set of drills of different diameters;

- chisel and chisel;

- tape measure and “hard” ruler;

- square and pencil.

Explanation! Installation of locking mechanisms in a metal door is quite specific and differs significantly in the complexity of the process. Because of this, this installation will not be analyzed in this article!

Installing a mortise lock

Let's consider the installation of a mortise lock in a wooden entrance door.

Mortise types of locks received this name due to the fact that their entire base is completely immersed in the solid door (wooden) leaf. This provides a fairly reliable degree of protection against all kinds of intruders.

1. Preparation

Before working manipulations begin, the door must be fixed so that the door can be freely approached from all sides, and the structure itself must not move in any way. This installation will allow for accurate marking and carry out the necessary installation steps with optimal quality and accuracy. Installing a locking mechanism in a door located between adjacent rooms is no different in technological nuances from installing a lock in the front door.

2. Cutting a groove for the lock body

The initial stage of work consists of cutting out a groove cavity directly under the “body” of the lock. Before this, it is necessary to attach the back surface of the prepared lock to the end surface of the door, which is supposed to be deepened into the door and trace its outline with a pencil.

Then, you should begin sampling the nest. First, using an electric drill, many channels are drilled within the markings.

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Upon completion of drilling, it is necessary to level the internal surfaces of the socket. This leveling is done with a chisel and chisel. It is important to control the evenness of insertion of the lock. There should be no distortions or displacements.

Advice! It should be taken into account that there is no need to simultaneously drill the nest to its full depth into the wooden base. It’s better to move 1 cm deep!

After completing the selection of the nest, you need to test placing the “body” of the lock into the groove made. If it fits in freely, then you can begin the next stage - cutting out a niche for the front plate of the lock. It is necessary to attach the lock to the corresponding place on the edge of the door and trace the outline of the strip. Then, using a chisel and chisel, the required depth of wood is selected so that the outer plank is placed flush with the end of the wooden door leaf.

3. Cutting a hole for the locking mechanism

Manipulations for inserting the lock continue, and the next procedure will be the installation of the locking structure of the lock. For this purpose, a lock is applied to the door surface, taking into account the adjustment for the thickness of the outer strip. The exact locations for drilling are marked. The channels are carefully drilled out using a fine-diameter drill, and then finishing is done with a chisel.

Clue! As an alternative, you can use a thick-diameter drill. They can create holes for mounting lock cylinders in 2-3 passes. You need to work carefully here, otherwise it’s easy to ruin the wooden door!

Do not forget about drilling additional holes if you are installing a lock with handles and an additional latch. A through-hole will need to be drilled to accommodate the rod that connects the handles, screws, and latching tab switch. If you make the slightest error during assembly and installation, the defect will quickly appear, for example, the “tongue” will be blocked behind the outer lock bar.

Once all the manipulations are completed, all that remains is to place the lock in the prepared niche and secure it with screws or self-tapping screws.

Useful point! If you use mounting screws, you should first drill thin holes-channels to facilitate the tightening process!

4. Installation of the lock response mechanism

Performing this manipulation is the final stage of the work. It is necessary to make grooves for the lock bolts. If there is a latch, then it is mounted.

Indicative markings are also made here, but they need to be done especially accurately and carefully. There are many methods for applying it, however, we will focus on considering the most easily feasible method.

You need to start by lubricating the end of the latch and the bolt with regular chalk. Then, the door should be closed and the key turned in the inserted lock. The smeared areas of the latch and bolt will leave a characteristic mark on the door frame, indicating the place for cutting the socket recess.