Pumping stations

We build a sewer system for a bathhouse with our own hands. Drain pit for a bath: varieties and technology for DIY construction

Not only the amount of pleasure received in the process of cleansing the body, but also the service life of the bath itself depends on the quality of the drainage system. In this article we want to talk in detail about this topic and tell you how to properly organize a sewage system in a bathhouse with your own hands.

Drainage sewer

In a bathhouse with small dimensions it is quite simple to make such a sewer.

The instructions for this are as follows:

A drainage well is built not far from the bathhouse itself, and its length is selected depending on the freezing of the soil. For example, if the ground freezes to 60 cm, then a hole with a depth of at least 1.3 m will be sufficient;
A layer of clay should be laid at the bottom of the pit; it should be no more than 10 cm thick. The ground around the base of the building and the groove through which the water will flow must also be covered with clay. It is carefully leveled and given a slight slope towards the pit;
At the bottom of the dug hole, pour a layer of expanded clay, crushed stone or a mixture of gravel and sand. The resulting “pie” should be at least half a meter, and these materials will act as drainage;
You need to pour earth on top of it and compact it tightly;
The drain pipe leading from the bathhouse must be insulated, otherwise it will freeze in winter.

Important. Periodically, every 2 or even 3 years, it is necessary to clean the pit, since water passing through its drainage layer can clog it with suspended particles.

If the soil on which the bathhouse is installed has a sandy structure, then a horizontal drainage pad can be made. It is made in the form of a trench with a depth and length of up to 1000 mm and a width of 300-400 mm.

A small layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of such a trench (20 cm will be enough), and earth is covered on top. Water drained from the building will fall directly onto this pad.

We use a pit

There are areas of soil that do not drain water well. In this case, it is better to make a pit for drainage. They will be collected in it and then removed.

This kind of do-it-yourself bathhouse sewerage is made only from waterproof components, and the liquid collected in the pit is drained through a special pipeline.

When building the pit itself, you need to think about building a water seal. It will be able to limit the entry of unpleasant odors into the bathhouse.

To do this you need:

Make the entry of the drain pipe into the pit at a height of about 15 cm from its bottom;
A plate is taken and installed immediately under the pipe, but it is not secured from below;
About 8 cm is left from the bottom to the plate; it will serve to form a water seal.

Ordinary polyethylene pipes used for sewer work are well suited for constructing a sewer system. They can be connected to the central sewer system, provided that it is not heavily loaded.

Wastewater disposal

Sewerage for a bathhouse is relatively easy to make with your own hands, and the choice of its type is based on throughput. If it is intended for a small number of users, then a conventional drainage system with a reserve will be enough for it, but if the bathhouse will receive a large flow of vacationers, then a complex drainage system cannot be used.

Important. If the area with the bathhouse has a central sewer system, then it is better to connect to it. In this case, you will 100% not violate sanitary standards and rules.

When constructing and connecting to an already functioning sewer system, you should not use wooden boxes and steel pipes, because they become unusable within a short time. To do this, it is better to buy plastic or, their price is within the same limits.

The pipe must be no less than fiftieth in diameter, and if you plan to connect additional devices or installations, it is better to take it with a margin, for example, 100 cm in diameter. It would be nice if the sewage system is equipped with a stainless steel drain, which will perform the work of a water seal.

Floor

The floor is an important part; before making a sewer in the bathhouse, the type of flooring is first thought through.

Depending on its size and type of sewage system, different decking can be installed in it:

Capital floor. It is made with a certain slope in one direction. On this side we make a receiving tray, from which all the water is discharged into the pit;
Leaking floor. It is attached directly to the joists and has gaps between the boards of up to 5 mm.

Inspection well

There are situations when the water drainage system can be several tens of meters long and at the same time have turns. In such cases, usually at turns, inspection wells are built. The well itself has a concreted bottom and is used for inspection work - cleaning pipes ().

Such an element is necessarily equipped with a cover, which is needed to prevent drains from freezing and various objects getting into the pipes (garbage, earth, etc.), which lead to their clogging. It is highly advisable to insulate the inside of the lid.

Important. If it happens that the drain pipe is clogged, it needs to be cleaned with a special plumbing cable. During the cleaning process, it is advisable to organize a small passage of water through the pipes so that deposits are washed out from the walls.

Conclusion

In this article we discussed the important issue of how to make a sewer in a bathhouse. As a result, two solutions to this problem were presented: the creation of a drainage system or sewer system. Which option is right for your case is up to you to decide ().

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Despite the fact that a bathhouse uses several times less water than a shower or bathtub, it still needs to be removed. The drainage of wastewater must be done in such a way as to eliminate the formation of an unpleasant odor, dampness and prevent wastewater from entering the water-bearing soil layer. The sewage system in the bathhouse is selected depending on the type of soil, the slope of the construction site, the design features of the structure itself and the intensity of its use. In this article we will talk about the main methods of waste disposal, types of sewer systems, as well as the features of draining water from a bathhouse.

We are thinking about a way to dispose of wastewater from the bathhouse

Traditionally, a bathhouse is built on a personal plot or summer cottage. Its construction and installation of engineering systems, including sewerage, is carried out in accordance with the following regulatory documents:

SP 53.13330.2011 (updated edition of SNiP 30-02-97);
SanPiN 2.1.7.573-96.

Various technologies can be used to drain wastewater from a structure:

Filtration well/trench. A recess filled with filter material - gravel-sand backfill 30-40 cm thick, covered with geotextile on top. Pipes are laid deep into the backfill with a slope of 5-10 cm/lm. The size of the trench is calculated from the total volume of wastewater per day. For example, to wash 4-5 people, the area of the filter trench will be 18-20 m2. Such an area is necessary due to the large volume of salvo discharge. Otherwise, unfiltered sources will simply flow into the drainage ditch without being purified.

The need for a large area, the low efficiency of treatment during volley discharge and the rather high labor intensity of work during arrangement are the main disadvantages of this method of wastewater disposal.

Storage device. Wastewater enters a sealed container and has no contact with external soil. Depending on its volume, periodic cleaning can be once every 1-3 years. In case of small volumes of wastewater, self-disposal is allowed. After draining the storage device, it must be disinfected. Bleach or quicklime is used. The main difficulty in arranging a storage tank is its complete sealing, which prevents wastewater from entering the soil and water-bearing layers.

Septic tank. The sewerage systems market offers consumers a large number of septic tank models of various sizes. This system is optimal, as it ensures almost complete purification of a large amount of wastewater using relatively small equipment. An additional advantage is the ability to install and connect yourself.

Since modern septic tanks are a monoblock device divided from the inside into several sections, where sedimentation, filtration, aeration and other cleaning functions are carried out, after which the completely cleaned and disinfected sources are discharged into a small filter well.

The main disadvantages of a septic tank are its high cost and the need for systematic use, since when the colonies of anaerobic bacteria in the activated sludge dry out, they die.

IMPORTANT! In rare cases, if dacha communities or cottage communities are equipped with a centralized sewer network, the sources of the bathhouse are discharged into the general sewer through a collector.

Read also: Bathhouse in a private house: advantages and disadvantages

Choosing a place for drainage: studying the geology of the site

When choosing a place for drainage, it is necessary to determine: the type of soil, the height of the groundwater horizon, the depth of soil freezing in winter. The depth of laying pipes in the outer part of the sewer system, as well as the features of the arrangement of all types of wastewater structures, depend on these parameters. Data on freezing depth are taken from the relevant reference books, for example, SP 22.13330.2011 (updated version of SNiP 2.02.01-83). The soil type is determined by the method shown in the table:

Soil for samples is taken from a depth of up to 30 cm in the area where sewer pipes are laid and/or a foundation pit for a septic tank, autonomous storage tank or filtration trench is constructed. If the soil is dominated by clays and loams, when laying sewer system pipelines, it is necessary to make a cushion of sand, which acts as a damper.

The wastewater reception facility must be located at a distance:

4-7 m to the foundation of the bathhouse;
at least 10 m to the water intake (column well);
5 m to the road;
2 m to any green spaces (garden, vegetable garden, decorative flower garden).

What type of sewage system to choose for a bathhouse

When arranging a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands, the following systems are most often used: pressure and non-pressure.

Nadornaya. Forced pumping of wastewater is used with a special fecal pump installed either inside the premises or outside in a septic tank. Such a system has a number of advantages:

installation is carried out quickly, and the volume of selected soil is much less than that of a free-flow sewer (there is no need to take into account the angle of inclination and dig very deep trenches);
there are no restrictions on use, elevation differences on the site, pipeline length, etc.;
minimal threat of clogging, wastewater moves through pipelines under pressure, eliminating the possibility of plugging.

Among the disadvantages of pressure sewer systems, the following should be noted:

high price;
energy dependence, in case of a power outage it will be quite problematic to use it;
The need to insulate pumping equipment for operation in winter.

Non-pressure (gravity). Drains move under the influence of gravity. The installation of a gravity sewer system requires strict adherence to standards for the slope of pipelines - at least 0.8-3.0 cm/m.p. (depending on the diameter of the pipes). During installation, pipes of a larger diameter are used than those of the pressure type. When laying the pipeline, it is recommended to avoid turns. If this is technically unattainable, then inspection wells with revisions are installed at each turning point to allow cleaning of blockages.

Advantages of free-flow sewerage:

energy independence;
affordable price;
quick installation requiring a minimum amount of materials.

Disadvantages and technical limitations:

in some areas with difficult terrain it is impossible to install a free-flow sewer system;
Clogging occurs quite often, and to remove it it is necessary to carry out numerous inspections.

IMPORTANT! For a bathhouse, the best option would be a free-flow sewer. Pressure - it is recommended to install only if the terrain of the site does not allow the use of gravity.

Installation of internal sewerage in the bathhouse

The construction of a sewerage system begins at the construction stage of the structure with an approximate drawing. The exact location of plumbing fixtures: toilets, sinks, drains can only be determined after the foundation has been erected. Pipes of the appropriate diameter are supplied to the installation sites of plumbing fixtures and main drains. They are insulated with fibrous heat-insulating materials to prevent drains from freezing in winter. Pipes are equipped with various devices that prevent the penetration of odor into the room: water seals, elbows, drains.

There are several recommendations on how to install plumbing in a bathhouse. In the shower, instead of a tray, a sealed screed is used, which has a slope towards the drain, buried at the same level as the floor. The liquid is removed through a drain with a siphon.

Drainage of wastewater from a washing room or steam room

In traditional Russian baths, water flows onto the floor. Then, through various types of guides: pipes, planes, cracks, it enters the sewer system, filter trench or directly onto the ground. In the so-called black baths, the flooring consisted of hewn logs installed on the ground. This outdated technology has found its rebirth with the use of modern materials - reinforced concrete. Concrete and cement-sand screeds have direct contact with the ground. A compacted clay floor is one of the base options. It is positioned as environmentally friendly and in keeping with traditions.

The main disadvantage of these floors is their high heat capacity. To heat the bath to the required temperature, you need to spend a large amount of energy. One solution to the problem is to use expanded clay concrete followed by covering the surface with ceramic tiles. To drain water, the surface of the concrete base is profiled, forming ladders leading to siphons or water drain valves.

Modern "white baths" use two types of wooden flooring instead of plank flooring. And the surface of the concrete base is not used as a supporting structure, but exclusively for drainage and drainage.

Leaking floor- formed from planed boards installed with gaps of 3-5 mm. In some designs, the gaps are made much narrower - 2-3 mm and additionally drilled drain holes with a diameter of 10-40 mm, placing them under the shelves. Ventilation of the subfloor is carried out through vents. In small bathhouses, water can be discharged through a leaking floor directly into the ground. If the amount of wastewater exceeds 200 liters, sand and gravel drainage is installed at the base of the bathhouse. Despite modern means of protecting the wood of building structures from moisture (waterproofing from roofing felt or hydroglass insulation, treatment with antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnations), they are subject to rotting processes, and with frequent use they quickly fail.

Non-leakage floor- it is formed from tightly fitted boards or in its manufacture pallets, polymer-cement screeds lined with tiles, and reinforced polymer films in several layers are used. Water drainage in the bathhouse is implemented in the form of open gutters or ladders, closed drainage channels and drain holes. To maintain the functioning of such a drainage system, it is necessary that the bathhouse structure be subject to minimal seasonal distortions caused by frost heaving of the soil. The second prerequisite is access to the drain holes of the pipelines for their periodic cleaning.

Structures with pallets are particularly sensitive to seasonal distortions. Even with a slight change in the angle of inclination, a puddle can form on the pallet, leading to the appearance of mold, rot and an unpleasant odor. To prevent deformation, it is necessary to abandon columnar foundations during construction, and use exclusively monolithic slab or prefabricated strip foundations.

Absorption pit

The pit is installed in areas with non-hygroscopic soils (loams, alumina, etc.). It is a container made of monolithic concrete, plastic or other waterproof materials. All water flows into it during washing, after which it is removed through a special pipeline to a disposal site. When constructing a pit, a water seal is installed. The simplest option is a shield with drain holes (located above the level of the drain pipe), installed in a pit. The disadvantages of this method is the constant presence of a certain amount of water in the pit.

There are several alternative options:

The pipe removing waste from the pit is installed at a height of 10-15 cm above the bottom;
A plate with a float is fixed above the pipe;
It is necessary to leave 4-5 cm from the bottom of the pit to the edge of the shutter plate.

This design of the movable water seal will allow you to leave a minimum amount of water in the pit.

Installing a sewer system in a bathhouse is impossible without a water seal, otherwise the smell from the drainage pit will permeate the entire structure. The water seal is installed on the main outlet pipe and is a u-shaped bend, inside which a water plug is formed, preventing the spread of unpleasant odors from the septic tank. In principle, there are water seals in siphons on every plumbing fixture. However, many craftsmen install it additionally. Moreover, the cost of this device is low.

IMPORTANT! The water seal is installed on large-diameter pipes, given that the bathhouse is not used very often (usually once every one or two weeks), the water in it can dry out, allowing an unpleasant odor to enter the room.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their property. But before you start building it, you need to carefully think through and properly organize drainage. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bathhouse, which do not require large financial investments and a connection to the general city sewer system. A well-made drain in a washing bath will help ensure the long life of the floors and foundation, and will also prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bathhouse

Drainage in a bathhouse can be carried out in various ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bathhouse. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking ones, as well as concrete ones. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for drainage of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, a floor in the bathhouse is laid with a slope, and special gutters and drainage ladders are installed. Any drainage system in the bathhouse must be installed before laying the floors.

When choosing to create an external sewage system for a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

Intensity of use of the bath;
Dimensions of the building;
Type of soil and depth of freezing;
Sewage system (its presence or absence);
Is it possible to connect to the central system?

The above aspects are among the most important when determining drainage.

For a small bathhouse where one or two people will steam several times a month, there is no need to create a complex sewer system. It will be enough to dig a regular drain hole or a small pit under the bathhouse.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating drainage. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to make a drainage well. In clayey soils, it is better to equip a drainage pit from which the wastewater will need to be pumped out periodically. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the ground, since water in pipes that are laid above the required level will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bathhouse to simply flow out and be absorbed into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a settling tank, where the wastewater will settle and be purified, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to construct a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and crushed stone. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters a well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of sludge in which microorganisms live that purify the water.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in a bathhouse

Let's look at the different types of drainage systems, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This is a sealed pit made of reinforced concrete, in which water coming from the bathhouse accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

Simplicity of the device;
Does not require maintenance;
Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

This water drainage system consists of a pit containing filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

Low cost;
Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

This system consists of a hole that is dug just under the washroom floor. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which allows waste water to flow through it, gradually going into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

There is no need for piping;
Low cost of the device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly drains and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

Works offline;
Can be used to create a sewer system with several points for receiving waste water;
It can even clean “black” drains if you install an anaerobic septic tank.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to install external structures for receiving and processing wastewater. But here you will have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

Internal sauna drainage system

The washing room inside the bathhouse is equipped taking into account the future drainage and the selected floors. Draining should be done in such a way that no moisture remains in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

Leaky wooden floors are the most widespread, as they are the simplest option for draining a bathhouse. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3–4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room flows into the pit without hindrance. Such floors are dismountable so that the boards can be properly dried. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for drainage, since the water will be absorbed into the ground under the bathhouse.
Non-leakage floors are installed with a slope towards the drain, through which waste water will flow into the drainage basin and then into the sewer. Also, water can flow into any chosen drainage system.
Concrete floors are easy to maintain, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for setting up a washing room in a bathhouse. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain so that water can quickly and easily flow into the selected sewage system.

Preparing for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of a wooden leaky floor with a drain. Must be carried out before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bathhouse, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide a drain in the steam room.

In the sauna sewer, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is necessary to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and the washing room are in different rooms, then a gutter for water drainage is placed under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope towards the central part, where the gutter will go, connecting to the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a stainless or galvanized steel tray on the floor under the flooring.

Video: installation of a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of a bathhouse

When installing self-leveling floors on which the tiles will be laid, it is necessary to maintain a slope, where at the lowest point a drain is installed to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

To install a sewerage system inside a bathhouse, it is necessary to use modern, durable plastic pipes that have a long service life and will therefore serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron, and are also easy and simple to assemble yourself without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for installing internal sewerage in a bathhouse, they are flexible in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, installation of a gravity drain requires pipes with a smooth inner surface of the walls, and asbestos-cement products often have rough inner walls with indentations.

Types of plastic pipes:

PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride pipes);
PP (polypropylene products);
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for the internal drainage device in the bathhouse. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bathhouse and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bathhouse with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10–11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be sufficient to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating drainage and tools

To install internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need gray PVC pipes, as well as joints and adapters.

The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drainage system.
We will also need tees size and angle 110–110–90° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
Horizontal sewer pipes – Ø11 cm;
Vertical pipes for installing water drainage receivers – Ø11 or 5 cm.
To connect pipes of different diameters you will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
For the external sewage system of the bathhouse you will need orange pipes (PVC).

For work we will need:

Bayonet shovel (special equipment);
Building level;
Grinder with cutting wheel;
Sand;
Cement;
Crushed stone.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for making various drain designs in a bathhouse

Before considering the drainage system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire internal sewer system in the bathhouse is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The drain trap is a siphon that has a water seal that prevents unpleasant odors from entering the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that prevents large debris from entering the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor towards the drainage ladder.

A drain ladder must be installed in bathhouses.

Video: system of functioning of a drain with a water seal in the washing room of a bathhouse

First we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this we dig trenches.
At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50–60 centimeters relative to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30–40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80–100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. Pour sand approximately 5–10 cm thick into the bottom of the trench and compact it well, maintaining the required slope.
We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
We install the drain pipes vertically (1 and 2 for drains). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes with a small margin of length. During the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
We install the sewerage system according to the specified diagram.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. In the middle zone the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north it is at least 150–180 cm.

To prevent the drains from freezing, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for drainage. Now we need to try to drain a certain volume of water to check the correct angle of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of the septic tank, taking into account that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq/m of sandy soil is about 100 l/day, mixed sandy loam is about 50 l/day, loamy soil is about 20 l/day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will emerge. We pour 10–15 cm of sand at the bottom, and 10–15 cm of crushed stone on top.
In the pit, we tightly stack about 5-7 wheels vertically on top of each other. The top point should be such that the drain pipe can accurately fit into it.
In loamy soil it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the site has sandy loam or sandy soil, then 5 pieces will be enough.
Cover the wheels with a durable metal or plastic cover with a hole made in it. We insert a ventilation pipe into it, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drainage well: a guide

The drainage pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

We choose a place in the lowest part of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and for a car to freely drive up to it, you need to choose a place with convenient access.
Digging a hole using an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig by hand, and this is a long process. We monitor the condition of the pit walls (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole of square, rectangular or round shape.
We make the bottom with a slight slope towards the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill in 15 cm of sand and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
We lay out the walls with bricks. You can take used red brick. For masonry we make a solution of clay and sand. During the laying process, we install an inlet pipe for water in one of the walls.
Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bitumen mastic or other similar material.
We install a reinforced concrete slab floor. The upper part of the well should be blocked on all sides by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the area of the pit where the slope is located. The overlap is installed in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a 5–7 cm layer of concrete. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for several days.
We lay a metal hatch, cover the concrete floor with polyethylene and fill it with soil so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and at least 1 meter deep. At a height of 10–15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit to the external sewage system. We maintain a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
We put a layer of crushed stone, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay at the bottom, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
We lay logs on top of the pit, and then install a wooden floor on them.
So that waste water can easily drain directly into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor does not need to be attached to the joists so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second option for constructing a pit is a water collector, from which wastewater will be poured into a septic tank or sewer system when it reaches a certain level. This drainage method is mainly used when constructing leaking floors.

How to install ground filtration for a bathhouse

To install such a system, you will need a separate septic tank, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will extend from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated waste along the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large containers made of plastic or metal.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete or a round structure made of brickwork works perfectly.

Rules for constructing a drainage system:

The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
The distance between pipes is at least 1.5 meters;
The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

We dig a trench taking into account an inclination angle of about 1.5°. We check the angle with a regular building level.
At the bottom of the trench in clay soil, pour 10 cm of sand and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to avoid silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone cushion, and wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
Pour 10 cm of gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to connect the drainage system to the bathhouse

Properly done drainage in the washing room of the bathhouse and its other premises guarantees a long service life of this structure. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent contamination of the area with waste water. Even in small baths it is necessary to equip a drainage system, so this process must be approached with complete seriousness and responsibility.

The modern Russian bathhouse is somewhat different from similar buildings erected in the last century. Now almost every steam room uses a full-fledged drainage system to remove dirty water from the washing room. This has a better effect on the service life of wood and concrete floors, and also reduces the risk of mold and mildew. Making a drain is not as difficult as it might seem.

Drainage system in the washing room

Washing room in a bathhouse with a leaky wooden floor

Traditionally, a Russian bathhouse consists of two rooms - a dressing room and a steam room, combined with a washing room. The layout of modern analogues of Russian baths is represented by such premises as:

the waiting area;
washing room;
steam room

The first room does not require drainage. The technology for drainage in washing and steam baths depends on the type of floor in a particular room.

Typically, the floor in a bathhouse comes in several types:

With the exception of the pouring floor, the internal part of the drainage system is represented by a drain for collecting water and a drain pipe. The outer part of the sewer system, depending on the size of the building, the type of soil, and the depth of soil freezing, can have a different appearance.

For a small bathhouse used once a week, a simple drainage system with a small drainage hole located under the floor structure or in close proximity to the building is sufficient. For a bathhouse designed for a large family, which can be heated once or twice a week, a more complex sewer system with a drainage well will be required.

Wastewater disposal method

The design of the drainage system for draining waste water from the washing and steam rooms is selected taking into account the type of soil on which the structure is built and the intensity of use of the bathhouse. Each of the designs has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Pit under the bathhouse

Pit under the bathhouse with a stone for draining water

A shallow hole dug under the floor of a washroom. 2/3 of the pit is filled with filtering components - crushed stone, slag, aquifer sand. This natural filter traps large particles, purifying the water, which is then absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

The advantages of this system include:

does not require the use of a piping system;
ease of installation, cleaning and maintenance.

The main disadvantage of drainage in the form of a pit is that it can only be used for bathhouses on a columnar foundation located on sandy soil types. With frequent use of the bathhouse, the soil may become oversaturated with moisture - the water will not have time to spread throughout the soil, which will lead to its stagnation inside the pit.

Drain well

Drain well made of reinforced concrete and plastic septic tank

The outer part of the drainage system is made in the form of a pipeline and a sealed tank filled with wastewater coming from the bathhouse. To construct the reservoir, well rings and a plastic or metal septic tank are used.

As the wastewater fills, the tank is cleaned. To do this, water is pumped out using a vacuum truck and taken to a treatment plant, or a septic tank is filled with biological products that filter the water, after which it is transported through a special pipe to the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually absorbed.

Among the advantages of a drain well are:

ease of installation on a site of any size;
the well does not require periodic cleaning;
relatively low cost.

For proper functioning of the drainage system, the septic tank must be located below the level of the bathhouse. This will ensure natural and unimpeded flow of waste water. There must be free access to the location of the septic tank, otherwise a sewage disposal truck with a large tank will not be able to drive up to the required distance to pull the water intake hose.

Filtration well

Three-well filtration tank system

It is a well filled with fine-grained crushed stone, finely crushed brick or slag. Waste water removed from the washing room and steam bath enters the well and passes through the filter material.

As a result, a small layer of sludge and a large number of beneficial bacteria are formed that purify the water. After gradual purification, the water leaves naturally or is used for household needs for watering and irrigating the soil.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the filter layer quickly becomes dirty with frequent use of the bath and requires replacement. This is a very labor-intensive process, since crushed stone or slag will have to be removed manually. Despite this, this technology is optimal for draining baths designed for a family of 4–6 people.

Ground filtration

Soil filtration using the example of a closed boiler and distribution pipes

A drainage system consisting of a closed septic tank, where wastewater accumulates, and sewer pipes through which water is drained after it is purified. Pipes are installed over a small area - this ensures uniform flow and absorption of water.

The advantages of ground filtration include:

complete autonomy;
possibility of water intake from several points;
high degree of purification.

Compared to other methods of draining waste water, ground filtration requires the use of a large area of land where water will be absorbed. It is better to carry out installation work at the stage of construction of the bathhouse, when the area adjacent to it has not yet been developed.

For installation, you will need to dig a fairly large pit for installing a septic tank, which requires the use of large construction equipment and special equipment.

Preparing for drainage installation

The design and installation of the bath drainage system occurs together with the installation of the floor. It is optimal if the work is carried out in the warm season, when the soil is driest. This will allow you to test the functionality of the drain and make adjustments if necessary.

Design of the internal part of the drainage system

Construction of a concrete floor with a drain in a bathhouse

The design of the internal part of the drainage system takes into account the rules that apply to the installation of sewage systems in residential premises. If necessary, a ventilation riser is erected or a shut-off valve is installed. For example, installation of a riser is required when organizing drainage from several rooms at once.

The general layout of a concrete floor with a drain consists of the following:

The layout of a wooden floor depends on its design, but in general it has a similar appearance. The drain pipe with a branch pipe is placed in the center of the room at the lowest point of the floor. For natural drainage, the sewer pipe is mounted with a slight slope. When installing drainage in the washing room of a bathhouse and steam room using one pipe, the drainage chute should be located between the rooms under the floor structure.

Design of external drainage area

General diagram of various types of sewage systems in a bathhouse

The calculation and design of the external sewerage section is carried out taking into account the size of the bathhouse, the frequency of its operation, the type of soil and the design of the water intake. As stated above, a filter well is optimal for use for private purposes. The design is designed to purify a large volume of water, sufficient for a family of up to 6 people to visit the bathhouse.

It is optimal if the well design is carried out by professionals. This will allow you to select the required size of the tank for receiving water without overpaying for useless volume.

Septic tank-based drainage systems are available in a ready-made version. Their volume is calculated depending on the number of people simultaneously visiting the bathhouse in a short period of time. For a family of 7 people, a tank with a throughput capacity of 1.5 m 3 /day is sufficient.

Calculation of the required material

Pipe and tee made of polypropylene for laying the drain

The amount of material required to install the drainage system is selected according to a previously drawn up project. For example, to install the internal part of a drain measuring 5x5 m you will need:

drain with direct outlet 105×105/50 mm;
PP socket pipe Ø50, length 500 mm;
straight pipe PP Ø50, length 1000 mm;
straight pipe PP Ø50, length 2000 mm;
adapter coupling 50–110 mm;
PP outlet 45 o.

If necessary, a polypropylene bend at 90 o is used. The length of the pipe for connecting the drain can vary from 500–1000 mm depending on the height of the floor. If necessary, the pipe is trimmed. A product 2000 mm long is used as a drain pipe. When laying external communications, PVC pipes up to 3000 mm long are used.

Necessary tool for the job

To dig trenches and water inlets you will need a comfortable shovel

To carry out installation work you will need the following tools:

bayonet and shovel;
bubble level;
construction knife;
grinder with a disc for metal/concrete;
container for sand/crushed stone.

To excavate soil to a depth of more than 2 m, it is better to use special equipment. This will speed up the work process. If all work is performed manually, then it is necessary to take care of safety precautions.

Digging a well should only be done with the help of a partner, who will ensure that the earth falling from the walls of the well shaft does not overwhelm the worker. All work is performed on a safety rope. The performer must be equipped with thick overalls and personal protective equipment in the form of a helmet, goggles and gloves.

Step-by-step guide to creating a bathhouse drain with your own hands

The laying of the drain pipe and the installation of the drain ladder should be carried out simultaneously with the installation of the floor. If it is planned to pour a concrete floor in a bathhouse, then further work on laying a drainage system should be carried out only after the initial polymerization of concrete (at least 7 days).

Installation of the internal part of the drainage system

Diagram of the drain pipe supply to various water intake points

To supply the drain pipe, you will need to perform the following work:

To lay plastic pipes, you will need to dig a trench 50–60 cm deep. The depth is calculated based on the ground level located outside the building area. With a base height of 30–50 cm, the depth of the trench should be at least 80–110 cm.
Two trench options for introducing a drain pipe
The route of the trench is determined by the project and depends on the location of the drainage ladder. Excavation begins from the most distant point from the point of entry of the drain pipe. For example, in the schematic diagram below, excavation occurs from point A to point B.
When digging a trench, a minimum slope is observed: 2 cm per 1 m. After arranging the route, a layer of fine-grained sand 7–10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench and thoroughly compacted. At the same time, the slope continues to be observed.
The ground slope is maintained along the pipeline route
If the bathhouse is built on a strip foundation, then a hole should be made in the selected location for the entry of the drain pipe. For this, a hammer drill and a grinder with a disc for concrete are used.
Vertical and horizontal pipe sections are being installed. In places where it is planned to install the ladder, a horizontal pipe up to 2 m long is installed. The connection to the horizontal pipe is made through a 90° elbow.
After checking the quality of the pipe connection and maintaining the slope, the trench is backfilled
If there are several drains located on one horizontal section of the pipeline, then a tee of the required diameter is used for connection. For example, in the diagram above this element is highlighted in bright color.
To insulate the drain pipe, a shell based on polyurethane foam is used. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the depth of soil freezing. For central Russia - at least 10 mm with a laying depth of 70–90 cm.

After insulation, the angle of inclination is checked. To do this, 5–10 liters of water are poured into each vertical section of the pipe in turn. If everything is in order and the pipe connections do not leak, then the trench is backfilled with previously removed soil.

Installation of a closed septic tank

Diagram of a water intake in the form of a closed septic tank

As a closed septic tank, you can use both finished products from the manufacturer and structures made by yourself from scrap materials. If the amount of wastewater discharged at a time does not exceed 300 liters, and the total weekly volume is 700 liters, then the septic tank can be made from old car tires.

The water absorption area for a septic tank is calculated based on the fact that sandy soil can absorb no more than 100 l/m2 per day, mixed soil - no more than 50 l/m2, and loamy soil - no more than 20 l/m2 per day. Based on this, the height and base area of the tank is calculated.

Preparing a mine for storing old tires

The septic tank installation technology consists of the following steps:

Before walling up, he checks the functionality of the septic tank. To do this, 50–100 liters are drained through the pipes. water. If the water disappears over time, then you can install a ventilation pipe and fill the septic tank.

Installation of a drain well

To construct a drain well, a metal or plastic tank, reinforced concrete well rings, red brick or stone can be used. The material is selected taking into account the depth of the structure. It is optimal if it is possible to install reinforced concrete structures of the required diameter.

Preparation of a well shaft for the installation of reinforced concrete rings

To build a well you will need to do the following:

The location of the well is chosen taking into account that access for a truck must be provided to it. It is advisable that the well be located in a lowland. This will avoid removing a large amount of soil to create a natural flow of water.
A hole measuring 1.5 x 1.5 m is dug using special equipment. If ordering an excavator is problematic, then you will have to dig a well shaft manually. During the work, safety precautions are observed. To simplify the process, you can dig a square-shaped hole.
A square-shaped well shaft can be lined with old brick
A 15 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the shaft and thoroughly compacted. After this, a concrete mixture based on M500 cement is prepared. The bottom of the shaft is being filled. If possible, round-shaped reinforced concrete products can be laid at the bottom of the well. This will allow you not to wait for the concrete to polymerize and continue with the work.
The mine walls are being lined with red brick. To reduce costs, you can use old and chipped bricks. A solution of clay and sand is used as a binder mixture. A drain pipe is connected to the well at the top. After lining, the surface of the well is treated with bitumen mastic.
After inserting the drain pipe, the filter well made of reinforced concrete rings is covered with a concrete cover
As a cover, you can use ready-made reinforced concrete products for well shafts. If you make it yourself, you will need to set up formwork from available materials with an overlap of 30 cm in length and width. In the center of the formwork it is necessary to install sides to create a round hole.
The first layer of concrete mixture with a thickness of 5–7 cm is poured. After the first layer has set, a reinforcing mesh of reinforcement rods with a cross section of 6–8 mm is laid on its surface. Then the next layer of similar thickness is poured.

After the concrete slab has dried, the shaft is closed with a metal hatch. Before backfilling, the slab is treated with bitumen mastic and covered with polyethylene 200 microns thick.

Installation of a ground filtration system

To install a drainage system using the ground filtration method, you will need to manufacture or purchase a ready-made septic tank of the required volume. Water distribution throughout the site will occur through a pipeline system based on polypropylene products with a cross-section of 110 mm.

Preparing a pit and installing an oblong-shaped water intake

To make a drainage system with ground filtration you will need:

In the immediate vicinity of the drain pipe leaving the bathhouse, an area for installing a septic tank is marked. The size of the area should be 30–50 cm larger than the water intake structure itself. A trench 80–110 cm deep should follow the marked area, maintaining a slope.
Preparing trenches for laying a pipeline for a soil filtration system
A pit is being dug for installation of a septic tank. When installing, be careful not to damage the water inlet. After installing the container in the ground, the drain pipe is installed taking into account the freezing thickness of the soil.
To prepare drainage in the PP pipe, you need to drill through holes with a diameter of 110 mm in increments of 10 cm. For this, use an electric drill with drills of 8, 10 and 12 mm. The pipe is divided into three equal parts. Holes of the same diameter are drilled in each part from smallest to largest.
Preparing and laying distribution pipes in trenches
Trenches are being prepared for laying distribution pipes. The length of the trench is no more than 25 m. The width of the trench is 50–100 cm. The spacing between adjacent pipes is at least 1.5 m. The depth is from 1.5 m.
After preparing the trenches, compliance with the slope of 1.5–2 degrees is checked. Next, a layer of sifted sand and gravel, each 10 cm thick, is poured onto the bottom of the trenches. Afterwards, geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone with an overlap on the walls of the trench.
Backfilling the trench after checking the pipeline for operability
Pipe laying is in progress. After laying, the pipe is wrapped in geotextile and covered with a 10 cm layer of gravel. At the end of each pipe, a 90° outlet and a pipe 50–70 cm long are mounted. A protective valve with holes is placed on the end of the vertical pipe and the trenches are backfilled.

During operation, preventive cleaning of the drainage pipe should be carried out. For this purpose, both special plumbing fixtures and pipe cleaning products are used, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

If you use the sauna frequently, you should periodically check that the container is full and empty it as necessary. This is especially true in spring and autumn, when the earth is full of moisture and water is absorbed into the lower layers of the soil with less intensity.

Ground filtration systems should be serviced every 12–15 years. To do this, it is necessary to completely replace the sand and gravel cushion and the bottom layer of earth in each of the trenches.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of dacha plots and private country houses cannot imagine their lives without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bathhouse is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary” that works to restore the strength and health of the owners, and provide the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular all the necessary communications, must be carried out according to all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its drainage and collection site. Disposing of contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural bodies of water is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewerage system (as is most often the case), a special storage or drainage pit is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drainage pit for a bathhouse to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of arrangement work, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

Main types of drain pits

Construction of any drainage pit is a rather labor-intensive process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure is not very complex in design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it independently, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for excavation work.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and one consisting of several chambers.

First, let’s figure out what each of the varieties is, in principle.

A sealed drainage pit is most often installed on construction sites with shallow groundwater aquifers. It is more often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of accumulated volumes of dirty water.

To build it, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. This is where wastewater will be collected. As the container is filled to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage disposal machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants or chemical cleaning solutions get into the soil and groundwater, which can negatively affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high-lying ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the container and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

There is no hermetically sealed bottom created in the drainage drainage pit. It is used as a bulk layer of filtering building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, holes are often made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is perfect for a bathhouse and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the soil characteristics on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers that have different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and is used for collecting, primary filtration and purification of waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid components are clarified and undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is further purified and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three containers is planned, then the third chamber is made into a drainage chamber. The second serves for the final sedimentation of suspensions, deeper purification of water due to the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here the purified liquid is poured into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often installed when it is expected to collect the entire considerable volume of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, home owners prefer to install a ready-made factory-produced system. What are the rules for setting up such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to - read in the special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drainage pit for a bathhouse

Various materials can be used to construct bath drainage pits. Their choice directly depends on the expected volume of wastewater, the financial capabilities of the site owners and the convenience of construction.

Barrel drainage pit

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of different sizes are used. However, such a drain can be arranged in different ways:

First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300–400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after compaction, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. In this case, it is taken into account that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is inserted into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which used water from the bathhouse will flow into the container. These drains will gradually seep into the drainage layer through holes in the walls and through the bottom, be cleaned, and then be absorbed into the surrounding soil. In some cases, drainage material fills not only the free space of the pit, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow directly into the drainage layers and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bathhouse that is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the most optimal options.

Second option. In this method of arranging a pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one above the other by about 200 mm. They are connected to each other at the top by an overflow pipe. Water from the bathhouse enters the first upper container, soap sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water is poured into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are connected.

Outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches filled with gravel or crushed stone, through which water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs that will receive constant watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - draining water from the bathhouse and irrigating plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drainage pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain pit

The walls of the drainage pit can be arranged using bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in the material, but the operating principle remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, discharging it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and is designed to hold a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and the bottom and lower part of the walls are sealed, then this structure can also be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be cleaned periodically.

To build this version of a drainage pit, it is not at all necessary to use new brick - used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If financial and technical capabilities are available, then a drainage pit can be built from perforated concrete rings, which are installed in a prepared pit. After installing the rings, a drainage backfill is arranged at the bottom of such a well.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in previous cases, is also filled with drainage material, so the hole, provided it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bathhouse, but also for a general one. True, this will require additional calculations, assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit made from old car tires

A drainage pit made from unnecessary car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is ideal for collecting periodically incoming water from a bathhouse.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut out in their side walls, in others, a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from a bathhouse can be called the most popular, since it is simple to install, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

The numbers on the diagram indicate:

1 – Crushed stone or coarse gravel – drainage backfill, in a layer 250÷300 mm thick.

2 – Old car tires.

3 – Drain pipe from the bathhouse (there may be two of them)

4 – Crossbars for laying the lid.

5 – Cover or hatch.

Around the stack of wheels laid out, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which allows you to retain and purify the water coming from the bathhouse. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bathhouse, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand the effects of high humidity are also suitable for the construction of a drainage bath pit.

How to independently equip a drainage pit for a bathhouse

Inspection of the soil at the site of the planned drainage pit

In order for the bathhouse drainage system to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bathhouse to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a specific area can easily be found on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using similar drainage systems for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils and sandy loams, including those with rocky inclusions, have good drainage abilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof; when dry, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformation and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

Constructing a drainage hole in such soil, if it extends to great depths, is an almost pointless exercise. Well, if you have to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100–120 mm thick, which will prevent the harsh impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drainage system.

The level of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drainage pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of the stable aquifer there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the contaminated water will not flow well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the option of a drainage pit is not suitable. You will have to either install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for constructing a pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important aspects of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system and the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants depend.

First of all, you will need to decide on the location where the hole will be located.

Quite often, owners place a drainage hole directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

— the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

— good ventilation must be provided under the bathhouse building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the bathhouse drain and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it is necessary to ensure that it is located at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the bathhouse floor by at least 150÷200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bathhouse building is 3÷5 meters.

If the drainage pit has to be located fairly close to the bathhouse structure, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20÷25 degrees, draining water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires must be done on the side that will be located further from the walls of the bathhouse;

It is very important to maintain the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage hole, and there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit quite far from the bathhouse. The amount of required slope depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is clearly shown in the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bathhouse without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the required slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sand “cushion” to it, you should control the difference in its depth using a building level.

Arrangement of a drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drainage pits will be considered, which can be arranged independently.

Regular drainage hole

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location of the drainage hole, you can proceed to digging a pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500÷3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square cross-section - it will depend on the chosen material for the walls. For example, if the pit is made of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape from it, but in some cases a round well can also be built from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the bathhouse building at the required angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300÷500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is filled with medium-fraction stone - gravel, crushed stone, crushed brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, as it is designed to retain dirty water and purify it, that is, moisture must reach the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can lay a sewer pipe right away, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or you can first install or build a container, and as it is being built, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with the work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. The laying is carried out maintaining a clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40÷50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and largely depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200÷300 mm, the space between the soil and brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be used to install them, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions must not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete also needs to be filled with drainage backfill. It should be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then you should not rush to install them in the hole of the sewer pipe wall, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - sometimes by 100-150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the finished concrete well alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break due to the resulting pressure and tension.
	When using metal barrels for a pit, the bottom and lid are cut off, and the side walls can simply be cut using a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After this, in the second of them, in the top, a hole is marked and cut through which a drainage pipe will be installed into the barrel. The hole according to the markings can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be neater. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points on the marked circle into which the tool file should fit freely.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drainage pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top lid of the container. The bottom of a plastic barrel can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100÷120 mm can be cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100÷150 mm horizontally and vertically. Crushed stone or gravel is poured around the barrel and under it, into which, just as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used material for arranging a bathhouse drainage well is car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, in the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together using, for example, plastic clamps. The sewer pipe can be connected between two tires. In this case, for support, bricks are installed along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place where it passes, which will relieve the load on the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for drilling the pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to provide for possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the diameter of the pipe by 70÷80 mm.
	Quite often, the drainage bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it two-thirds - this allows the water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly be absorbed into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by constructing a concrete platform with a hole for a hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is filled with concrete mortar, a layer 70–80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drainage pit is built according to its dimensions.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special lid made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast iron hatch.
	Well walls built from tires or barrels have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled between the walls of the well and the soil, then its top layer, 120÷150 mm high, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or a concrete platform can be built over the structure and then backfilled with soil.

A pit based on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with access to a filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is significantly higher. This system is perfect for installation in areas with groundwater located close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage of water from the foundation, from a storm well, filled from linear rainwater inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes made of the same material. Usually, for the drainage pit of a small bathhouse, two or three containers with a volume of 200÷250 liters are enough.
	The pit for installing barrels is also dug 100÷150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450÷500 mm greater than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to create a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the containers should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. The barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with medium-fraction crushed stone, a layer 80÷100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can move on to working on preparing the containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which the drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for a pipe that will connect the first barrel with the second, installed slightly lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges at a plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut the hole with maximum precision, and then to seal it, use high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40÷50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be intended for connecting the sewer drain pipe from the bathhouse, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top lid, and two in the side wall, 100÷120 mm below the top edge. The axes of these side windows should be radially rotated from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Nozzles with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the installed second barrel, on the opposite side from the entrance, small holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled, at a distance of 150÷170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water into the drainage fill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of a bathhouse, then this operation is not necessary.
	The result should be a design similar to that shown in the illustration. Having installed a system of barrels and pipes, you can proceed to creating a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage area, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200÷1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel standing above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be extended over the entire area, since it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile fabric is laid at the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Filling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully compacted and distributed at a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. Pegs installed in advance with the required height difference will become a kind of beacons for the correct filling of the drainage layer.
	As drainage material is poured around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise external soil pressure may deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by pouring water. Next, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed throughout the drainage area. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. After drilling, the pipes are dressed in a filtering “casing” made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subject to silting.
	The next step is to fill the pipes and the entire trench space with medium-fraction crushed stone mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100–120 mm. It is best to backfill several different layers of soil on top of the crushed stone. So, the crushed stone is first covered with geotextiles, on which a layer of moistened sand 70÷80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site it is quite possible to arrange a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old supplies or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drainage pit for a bathhouse. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of corrugated or smooth slate, or even scraps of corrugated sheets remaining after roofing work.

Some inventive owners of country houses line the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles, which are filled with sand, and find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if you want to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or barn room from old materials, then you need to use your imagination “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if any creative master shares his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bathhouse is shown in the video below.

We build a sewer system for a bathhouse with our own hands. Drain pit for a bath: varieties and technology for DIY construction

Drainage sewer

We use a pit

Wastewater disposal

Floor

Inspection well

Conclusion

We are thinking about a way to dispose of wastewater from the bathhouse

Choosing a place for drainage: studying the geology of the site

What type of sewage system to choose for a bathhouse

Installation of internal sewerage in the bathhouse

Drainage of wastewater from a washing room or steam room

Absorption pit

Drainage device in the washing room at the bathhouse

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in a bathhouse

Drainage well

Pit

Internal sauna drainage system

Preparing for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Video: installation of a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of a bathhouse

Calculation of material for creating drainage and tools

Step-by-step instructions with photos for making various drain designs in a bathhouse

Video: system of functioning of a drain with a water seal in the washing room of a bathhouse

We make an external sewage system with our own hands

How to make a drainage well: a guide

How to place a drainage system with a pit

How to install ground filtration for a bathhouse

Video: how to connect the drainage system to the bathhouse

Drainage system in the washing room

Wastewater disposal method

Pit under the bathhouse

Drain well

Filtration well

Ground filtration

Preparing for drainage installation

Design of the internal part of the drainage system

Design of external drainage area

Related video: planning sewerage in a bathhouse

Calculation of the required material

Necessary tool for the job

Step-by-step guide to creating a bathhouse drain with your own hands

Installation of the internal part of the drainage system

Installation of a closed septic tank

Installation of a drain well

Installation of a ground filtration system

Main types of drain pits

Prices for septic tanks

Materials for arranging a drainage pit for a bathhouse

Barrel drainage pit

Brick drain pit

Prices for metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

Pit made from old car tires

How to independently equip a drainage pit for a bathhouse

Inspection of the soil at the site of the planned drainage pit

Prices for concrete rings

Arrangement of a drainage pit - step by step

Regular drainage hole

A pit based on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with access to a filtration field

Video: How to make a bath drain yourself at minimal cost