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Is it possible to build a house near a well? Where can you not build a well? How to choose the right time to dig a hole

Hello!

I decided to build a new house next to the old one, followed by demolition of the latter. It turns out that on the site of the future house there were wells, which are located 0.5-1 m from each other (Both collapsed at one time and two holes remained). The water, according to the “old people,” is deep (the wells were 10-12 m long, and wells in the area are now being drilled 20-30 m deep). The house is supposed to be 10 by 10 m, one-story. The pits are located in the center of the proposed house. The house will be reinforced concrete monolithic with insulation, the ceilings will be wooden. But most likely you need an internal load-bearing wall in the middle of the house (right in the place of the wells). I would not want to change the position of the future house. Please tell me:

1. What to do with the wells (maybe they should be filled and compacted in a special way)?

2. Is it even possible to build on such a place? What are the consequences?

3. In what cases is an additional “fifth” wall necessary?

Thank you in advance!

Hello. Let's start answering from the end:

  • 3. A “fifth” load-bearing wall is needed if the width of the building is too large to cover it with a single structure.

In this case, in addition to the outer walls, a central one is erected, which will serve as an additional support point for the ceiling or roof. In your case, with the dimensions of the house being 10x10 m, the presence of a central load-bearing wall seems justified. This is too long a distance for wooden beams. Finding a ten-meter beam of a suitable cross-section is not easy and the deflection will be large.

You can build wooden trusses, but they will take up a lot of space and be more expensive. Prefabricated reinforced concrete floors, although they can cover spans of up to 12 meters, are very expensive with a length of more than 7.2 m. In addition, if the house is made of stone, it will be convenient to place ventilation ducts and chimneys in the central wall: they will exit onto the roof close to the ridge, which will ensure optimal draft.

  • 2. You can build. There is no risk if everything is done correctly.

The soil needs to be compacted as much as possible; more on this below, in point 1. It is unlikely that this can be done perfectly. The possibility of a drawdown, albeit small, will still remain. Therefore, the foundation structure on which the wall will rest in the area above the wells should be a beam.

We do not know the possible loads from the wall, nor the length of the section above the fill soil. Let us give extremely general advice: the foundation strip in this place should be at least 60 cm high, cast from strong concrete and reinforced. For a width of 40 cm, we recommend placing four rods in one row, for a total of three rows. The minimum cross-section of the reinforcement for the top row is 10 mm, the middle and bottom is at least 12 mm. The reinforcement should be placed above the filled-in wells and placed on stronger soil, at least 60 cm in each direction. We repeat, this is the minimum for a one-story house, a wall made of hollow bricks and a span of approximately 2.5 m long. You should make a decision on the site, taking into account the specific situation.

  • 1. Fall asleep, of course.

But, since your wells have already collapsed, there is no point in digging them back up and, as expected, compacting the soil layer by layer. The easiest and most affordable way to compact bulk soil is to pour water. The soil should be shed with a large amount of water - the longer, the better. It would be good to lower hoses into the holes for a couple of weeks and pour soil around the clock, gradually adding it. We recommend filling the upper 20-30 cm with crushed stone and compacting it with a tamper, mechanical or manual.

By the way, it is unlikely that you will build a house from monolithic reinforced concrete. Probably just the foundation. Perhaps by the expression “the house will be reinforced concrete monolithic with insulation” you meant the construction of walls in foam formwork, the so-called “Warm House” system. Not the best option, by the way, for your own home. Although not very expensive.

The question of where to dig a well in order to be sure that the water in it will be clean and in large quantities worries those who are planning to organize water supply to their summer cottage from this hydraulic structure. It would seem that the question concerns only the location, but it should be noted that there are special documents from government agencies that accurately determine the distance from the well to the house and other buildings and structures. One of them is SNiP 30-02-97, which deals with the standards for planning and development of summer cottages.

Well structure near the house

Standards for the location of a well in a dacha

But in any document, even in the designated SNiP, you cannot find exact standard distances when it comes to a well for drinking water. The thing is that the well itself does not bear any load on the building. Therefore, you can often find wells that are dug inside the house. However, it is necessary to make a reservation that this type of construction is possible if the house is not built on a shallow foundation.

Shallow foundation structures are usually built for small, lightweight buildings. When excavating soil inside a house or near the foundation, soil movements may occur, which will affect the quality of not only the foundation structure, but also the main structure as a whole. Therefore, it is for such cases that there is a standard distance from the well to the building. It should not be less than 3 m.

Local water supply network

But it is also necessary to take into account the fact that a well can act as a source of water, which is a point of intake for the local water supply network. If you install a pump in a well shaft and connect it with a hose or pipe with internal water supply piping, you can guarantee the constant presence of water in the house. And in this regard, the closer the well structure is to the house, the better.

  • Firstly, this reduces the distance from the source to consumers, which makes it possible to shorten the water supply line and use a pump with less power. And this is a good saving of money.
  • Secondly, the small size of the dacha plot does not make it possible to carry out construction on a large scale or carry out decorative design of the territory. Therefore, compactness is the main requirement for development.

Distance from well to sewerage facilities

As for other buildings or objects, the well can be built at a distance:

  • more than 30 m from buildings where livestock or poultry are kept;
  • more than 4 m from the planted trees, this is in case the roots of the plantings reach the well and begin to destroy it;
  • more than 1 m from bushes;
  • and at least 30 m to cesspools, septic tanks, sewage system drains, toilets and other objects associated with sewage or pollution.

Attention! The optimal condition is if the well is dug higher than the sewerage facilities are located. And here not only your own buildings are taken into account, but also those of your neighbors.

The photo below shows the location of the well in relation to the main house and other buildings on the summer cottage. At the same time, the author of the drawing outlined the ideal location, which guarantees that the water inside this hydraulic structure will always be drinkable.

Ideal location of a well in a summer cottage

Features of the structure

Choosing a place for a well, in principle, is not very difficult if you have a plan for developing a summer cottage. This will be especially important for those who are just starting to equip their dacha. If the house is still just under construction, then you can safely dig a well, which it was decided to organize inside the building. Moreover, the construction of buildings will require water, so the construction of a water source will be very important precisely in the first stages of landscaping a suburban area.

If the foundation has already been poured, then in this case you can also dig a well shaft inside. Although there is no problem doing this with an already erected house. Simply, the more free and open space, the easier it is to excavate soil.

It should also be taken into account that a well inside a building is a loss in the usable area of ​​the house. If the total area is large, then there will be no problems. But in small buildings, where every square meter counts, it is better to abandon such an idea. It is also possible in the basement, if provided for in the house design. The well shaft will have to be cleaned regularly and sometimes repaired - this is the installation of a block for cleaning, dirt and debris, so the space around the well should be easy to clean, and the finishing materials should be resistant to moisture.

As for the well near the foundation or in any other place, this is the easiest. The matter can only be complicated by the presence of large trees, the roots of which have an extensive network. Therefore, it is worth taking into account even such seemingly not the most stringent requirements and conditions.

Well inside the house

But, as practice shows, shallow wells will create the most trouble. This primarily indicates that the aquifer lies very close to the surface of the earth. When digging a mine, water rises from the horizon by 1.5-2 m, filling the reservoir. That is, its location becomes even higher. And if the construction of the mine and the formation of the shaft are carried out incorrectly, then there is a high probability that, seeping through the walls of the lining of the mine walls, water will begin to wash away the foundation itself. And this is already big trouble.

Therefore, it is very important to take care of sealing the shaft of the well structure. Especially if it is finished with wood, stone or brick. In this regard, reinforced concrete rings guarantee maximum tightness.

So, the distance from the well to the house and other buildings on the dacha plot is a very important value. From all of the above, we can conclude that most often this indicator affects both the purity of the water in the well and the technical condition of the house, primarily the foundation.

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In the absence of a centralized water supply, the water sources are underground interstratal waters. For free access to water, a shaft well is usually installed on the site. If the technology is followed, it gives good water, is durable and easy to use. One of the important conditions for the correct placement of a water source on the site is maintaining the optimal distance from the well to the septic tank, other wells and other structures.

Proper placement of a well on a site is a difficult engineering task that is underestimated by inexperienced owners of country houses. In order for the operation of water supply and sewerage systems to be problem-free, it is necessary to understand even before starting work that there are rules and regulations, non-compliance with which will lead to problems in the future.

Choosing placement and determining depth

When building a well, you need to determine its expected depth and number of rings. If the site is new and construction has not yet begun, the search for water should begin by examining the sources used by the neighbors.

How to find the right location for a well

To find it, you need to know the following information:

  • The depth of wells and wells in neighboring areas;
  • Volumes of water loss;
  • Terms of use;
  • Features of operation.

If there are no neighbors, the task becomes more complicated. Then it is recommended to use one of the methods for determining the water source. The most popular of them:

  • Dowsing;
  • Hydrogeological indications;
  • Local manifestations of water.

None of them will give a 100% guarantee of data accuracy. However, you should know that it can be carried out at a certain distance from water supplies in neighboring areas. Otherwise, the water from them may simply go into newly formed wells. In addition, this method is quite expensive and is more suitable for undeveloped areas.

Criteria for choosing a site on the site

Careful selection of location is a prerequisite for creating a reliable and high-quality source of water supply. This approach will eliminate the risk of receiving water that does not meet sanitary standards. When choosing a location, they are guided by the following criteria:

  • Convenient location on the site;
  • Distance between wells and objects of use;
  • Distance from sources of pollution.

What you need to know about the distance of the well to the foundation

The problem of the location of a well on a site is especially relevant for owners of small plots. The structure should be as convenient as possible. To do this, it is positioned so that it is possible to easily organize the supply of water to buildings on the site, such as a house or a bathhouse, as well as to a vegetable garden. Usually, the highest place on the site is chosen for the well; it should not be allowed that the cesspools of neighbors are located higher in the terrain.

Find out what a pumping station for a well is.

In addition, the impact of the mine on the neighboring building should be taken into account. For a well, choose a place closer to the house. This is due to the peculiarities of organizing water supply: supplying water to a house over long distances is an expensive pleasure. Wells can even be built inside a house. Usually, they first build a shaft for the well, and then dig a pit for the foundation. In this case, the type of soil and topographic conditions of the site should be taken into account.

It’s another matter when the house is already ready, but the well is only in the plans. Houses on shallow foundations may suffer from the proximity of well shafts. You should not install wells in close proximity to such buildings. Shallow strip foundations on clay are especially dangerous in this regard. Here it is worth considering the depth of the well. Shallow mines are more troublesome for buildings. Water can wash away the foundation.

Wells can be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the foundations of buildings. This norm is prescribed in SNiP 30-02-97.

The minimum distance to buildings for keeping animals is 4 m, other buildings – 1 m, trees – 4 m, bushes – 1 m.

What should be the distance between wells

The installation of local water supply on the site must be carried out according to the project. If it clearly states how many and what structures will be required for the system, then many questions will disappear by themselves. The documentation must also indicate the exact distances from well to well.

The technology for drilling water wells is described.

Owners of country houses often build a water supply system with their own hands, without drawing up a project. Therefore, we need instructions that will tell you how to calculate the location of the wells.

When creating a home water supply, one well is not enough; additional tanks are needed. They are necessary for maintaining the network, as well as eliminating emergency situations.

The number of shafts and tanks depends on:

  • Distances of the well to the foundation of the house;
  • The presence of other buildings, pipelines and other structures on the site;
  • The complexity of the terrain, taking into account changes in height.

Installation of water supply with a well near the house

The best and simplest option is one inspection well. It is suitable for areas where the drinking well is located as close as possible to the house. It is located at the entrance of the pipeline into the building.

How to choose a pump for a well will tell you.

Calculations are made taking into account the fact that external pipe routing is carried out 20 cm from the wall. If the diameter of the well is 1 meter, then the distance from its axis to the wall will be at least 70 cm.

Installation of a water supply system with a well remote from the house

The situation becomes more complicated when the source of drinking water is significantly distant from the house. In this case, it will be necessary to construct several inspection tanks. The maximum distance between water supply wells is 15 m. For sewer inspection structures, this norm is no different.

Check out the dimensions of concrete rings for wells.

If it is necessary to change the direction of the pipeline, construct a rotary well. The connection of all nodes must be as precise as possible. Blockages occur in these places more often than others.

In areas with height differences, it is necessary to change the depth of the pipes. For this purpose, a differential structure is built. The entire water supply system is laid at an angle to the well.

The distances from this structure to other components of the water supply system are regulated solely by the terrain features of the site. To optimize maintenance costs and save money on the device, both auxiliary structures can be combined with inspection wells.

Sewer

In order for the water supply to fulfill its function, it is necessary to maintain distances from sources of pollution to the well with drinking water and between the elements of the sewerage system of the site. These standards are prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. In this case, structures are taken into account not only on one’s own site, but also on neighboring ones.

Distance between sewer and septic tank

Water structures need to be built as far as possible from landfills, industrial facilities, septic tanks, sewers and other sources of pollution. The minimum distance from the source of drinking water to wells with drains and cesspools is 50 m, buildings for livestock farms is 30 m. The distance from the septic tank to residential premises is 7 m.

Types of sewer wells and distances between them

Installing a sewer system in a country house is not a difficult task. And it is quite within the power of any skilled person. The simplest system consists of a septic tank and a pipeline. All pipes and pits require constant monitoring, so additional sewer wells are built. They, just like in the water supply system, are divided into the following types:

  • Observations;
  • Rotary;
  • Nodal.

The principles of their construction are practically no different from water wells. The minimum distance between such technical structures is 15 m. If the system is limited to one pipe, then the distance can increase to 50 m.

It is possible that you will find information about .

Before starting work, you need to think carefully about the wiring diagram and the installation location of the wells. Having a ready-made plan will reduce the cost of installing sewerage and water supply on the site.

The video shows an example of improper placement of a well:

To minimize the risk of receiving poor quality water, you need to carefully select the location for creating an autonomous source of water supply. A well is a capital structure; it is built for a long period of time. If it fails, it is almost impossible to move it to another place. And failure to comply with the standards regarding the distance of communications to other objects on the site can lead to the failure of the entire water supply and sewerage system.

After completing the construction of the well, the time comes for its arrangement, aimed at ensuring ease of use and maintaining the purity of the water. An important element of such arrangement is a soft blind area around the well, which will not allow melt and surface water to penetrate into the mine, and will provide you with a convenient approach to the structure.
Why do many experts advise making a soft blind area, what other ways are there to create it, what are their advantages and disadvantages? All this will be discussed below.

When to do a blind area and whether to do it at all

Let's start with the question - why do we need a blind area? Mainly to prevent contaminated high water and melt water from seeping into the groundwater well from the surface of the earth.
Her task is not to let them through to the mine shaft, to take them aside. One should not neglect the fact that a well with a blind area looks more aesthetically pleasing, and it is much more convenient to use it standing on a clean and dry foundation.
However, the need for it may not arise if the following conditions are met:

  • The well is located away from roads, industrial zones, in an environmentally friendly place;
  • It stands on a hill, which prevents the flow of surface water to it;
  • Equipped with automatic water-lifting equipment that does not require your frequent presence at the well.

Now about the best time to make a blind area. The instructions state that no earlier than a year after completion of construction, since during this time (and sometimes longer) self-compaction and settlement of the soil filled around the well shaft occurs, as a result of which voids and failures are formed.

Also during this period, a natural displacement of the upper ones in the horizontal plane is possible, which can also disrupt the integrity of the blind area. Therefore, its construction can be started only after these processes have been completed and their consequences have been eliminated.

Advice. In order to be able to use well water without fear during this time, during the construction of the structure it is necessary to make a clay castle and temporary blind area around it.

Types of blind areas

The blind area at the well can be made of different materials: clay, concrete, reinforced concrete, as well as waterproofing film and sand.
The latter is called a soft blind area. Let's look at the features of their device.

Solid types of blind areas

Made of clay or concrete with a thickness of 20-30 cm and a width of 1.2 to 2.5 meters along the entire perimeter of the structure:

  • The clay blind area is a layer of compacted clay placed in a recess of the specified dimensions.
    Its main disadvantage is the formation of slippery and sticky dirt on the surface when water gets on it. This will require additional costs for the installation of a protective coating.

  • The concrete blind area of ​​a well is made by pouring concrete into the formwork installed in the recess on a bed of gravel. To make it last longer, reinforcing mesh is placed in the formwork before pouring the solution.
    A prerequisite for the manufacture of such a blind area is waterproofing the outer walls of the well in the place where they will come into contact with the concrete. This is necessary to prevent rigid adhesion to the frozen blind area slab.

Note. In any case, the blind area must have a slope from the well to drain water. Sometimes drainage grooves are also made in it.

The disadvantage of this type is the frequent formation of chips and cracks on the surface. They not only allow surface water to pass through, but also give the concrete surface an unkempt appearance.
However, this is not the biggest problem - if desired, the blind area for the well can be repaired. But it itself, if the manufacturing technology is not followed, can damage the well trunk and compromise its integrity.
The fact is that the blind area is affected by the forces of frost heaving, and if it is rigidly connected to the upper ring of the well, it may be separated from the lower one. As a result, a gap is formed between them, through which contaminated water and soil particles fall directly into the mine with clean water.

Soft blind area

This structure consists of a waterproofing film, which is covered with a layer of sand. It is possible to install a decorative covering or lawn on top.
Its production does not require large financial and physical costs and consists of the following steps:

  • Before making a blind area around the well, fertile soil is removed around it to a width of 1.2-1.5 meters;
  • A waterproofing film is placed at the bottom of the recess, the edge of which is placed on the upper ring;
  • The film is fixed to the ring using double-sided tape or a metal strip, through which it is attached to the walls with dowels or screws;
  • At the point where the film transitions from a vertical to a horizontal position, a fold must be made. It is designed to compensate for displacement and subsidence of the soil in the base, which will prevent damage and destruction of the top decorative layer;
  • Sand is poured onto the film, on top of which paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, crushed stone, etc. are laid. You can simply put back the previously removed turf or sow lawn grass.

Advantages of a soft blind area

In addition to the fact that manufacturing such a design in an economical version will require a minimum of effort, it has many other advantages:

  • The most important thing is that there is no risk of the well shaft rupturing along the seam between the rings;
  • The soil around the well can settle and compact without damage to both the well itself and the covering of the blind area;
  • Low price of materials used;
  • If necessary, the soft blind area is easy to dismantle;
  • A waterproofing film will do a much better job of draining water from the walls of a well than clay or concrete;
  • Low labor intensity of the process - in this case, digging a well with your own hands is done without problems and without the involvement of assistants;
  • Decent service life, reaching 80 years. Only the outer decorative layer may need repairs;
  • Finally, you can use any decorative finish from wood decking to stone cladding.

Conclusion

The video in this article will help you better understand how to make a blind area for your well. It is important not to forget about all the rules and nuances of its design described in the article, so that in the future you do not have to remodel or even repair the water source itself.

Many experienced well workers claim that a well can be dug at almost any time of the year, except during spring floods. However, you should still dig a well in August or September. Firstly, during these months, the aquifers that well diggers want to get into are at their lowest level at this time. Therefore, the risk of not digging the well becomes less. If you dig a well of insufficient depth, focusing on the aquifer level increased by melting snow and rain, the well may remain empty in the summer heat. Secondly, summer time is also convenient because many summer residents stay on the site for a long time, which allows them to fully control the construction process.

The second important issue is the choice of location. It is believed that the well can be located where the aquifer is closest to the surface of the earth, this will facilitate construction work. How to find this place? Most experts do not recommend using methods for determining the depth of groundwater using metal frames or rods, as they are not accurate. Meanwhile, experts often contradict each other. This suggests that all plots of land have individual differences, and when choosing a site, you need to take a number of factors into account. Even the well-known opinion that in areas with dense vegetation and in lowlands it is more reliable to dig a well sometimes turns out to be incorrect. The wettest and lowest place on the surface may not have clean water underground.

Experienced summer residents know what type of soil is on their site at a depth of two meters, but water at such a shallow depth is not suitable for drinking; drinking water usually lies at a depth of tens of meters. Naturally, you will not be able to determine the location of places with the closest location of the aquifer to the surface. As well as finding out the quality of the soil located at such a depth. In this matter, you need to listen to the advice of professionals. When choosing a location for a well, you need to take into account several important factors.

You can ask neighbors who already have a well on their property about how deep it is, what problems arose during construction, and what type of soil is on the property. This information is quite useful.

Any sources of pollution should be located at the greatest distance from the well, and located lower in relief. Take into account not only the current appearance of the territory, but the changes planned in the near future, because when building a bathhouse or gazebo in the future, it will not be possible to move the well. Before you start digging a well, consider its location relative to the house.

It is difficult to determine the depth of the future well in advance. If there is a well on a neighboring property, its depth can be taken as a rough guide. According to experts, two wells dug at a distance of several meters from each other can have completely different types and depths.

How to properly dig a well

It is advisable to dig a well together, one person should be at the bottom, the other at the top, alternately replacing each other. The pit should have a diameter of slightly more than one meter in order for reinforced concrete or wooden well rings to fit into it. The internal diameter of the well should ultimately be 1 m. The easiest way to dig is sand, followed by clay. However, there is very dense and dry soil, or soil with a large content of stones. The deeper the hole gets, the more difficult it is to dig. Wells are usually dug with a shovel having a short handle. In addition to it, you will also need the following materials and tools:

At a depth of about 3 meters, it is necessary to use a thick rope and a hook to lift the soil in the bucket to the top. A canvas raincoat and rubber boots may also be required at this stage. Wooden or concrete rings are laid as the hole deepens, placing them one on top of the other. After digging a hole 1 m deep, you need to place the first ring, which will settle deep into the hole under the pressure of its own weight. You need to jump on the ring a little so that it settles more tightly. If the ring moves to the side, it must be corrected with a bayonet spatula. Verticality is checked using a plumb line. The measurement error increases with increasing hole depth, so it is necessary to regularly check the measurements using a plumb line. well rings (wooden or reinforced concrete);

  • bayonet blade;
  • construction plumb line;
  • hook;
  • thick rope;
  • wire eyes;
  • crushed stone;
  • log with a diameter of 20 cm;
  • bucket;
  • wooden beam;
  • sand cement blocks;
  • waterproofing material;
  • axe;
  • electric plane;
  • compass.

The cracks that form between the well rings do not need to be filled with a special solution; it is enough to simply lay the top layer around the well with clay, which will protect it from leakage. Reinforced concrete well rings can have different heights. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to install a well with your own hands. Therefore, when constructing a well yourself, you need to use short rings. The rings can be secured with wire eyes; a crowbar can be useful here. When constructing a well, it is necessary to use rope insurance, which will protect you from the dangers associated with underground quicksand and unexpected voids. You need to be very careful and monitor the tendency of the soil to move.

The water intake can be considered dug when its depth is 1 m. Water must be pumped out of the shaft and cleared of excess soil. Then it is necessary to fill the bottom with crushed granite stone in a layer 10 cm thick, this will protect the water from getting earth and clay when scooping it up with a bucket. Soil extracted from a well can be used to build an alpine slide and create beds on your site.

Installation of the above-ground part of the well

Installation of the above-ground part is easier than the construction of a well column. Here you can do creative work and embellish the landscape of your site. A frame made of wooden beams is usually installed as a head. You can make a ledge on the wall for a bucket. The head is installed on sand-cement blocks. Don't forget about waterproofing. Here you can use roofing felt, rubemast or stekloizol. Sand is poured under the blocks, providing the blocks with a backfill that protects them from soil displacement.

A winch is used to wind the chain when lifting a bucket from a well. It is made from a log with a diameter of 20 cm. Its length should be about 1.2 meters. The gate must first be prepared by leveling it with an ax and an electric plane, checking the evenness of the circle along its end, drawing an even circle with a diameter of 20 cm on it using a compass. At the ends of the log, holes are drilled in the center with a depth of 10 cm and a diameter of 2.2 cm. The diameter of the gate axis is should be a couple of millimeters larger for a more secure fit. After this, 2 washers are installed on the gate itself, the same number must be installed on the post of the log house on which the handle will be located, and one washer on the opposite post. This is necessary to protect the log house from displacement.

The roof of the well is mounted on supporting pillars using braces. A roof with large overhangs will protect the well from rain and snow. For better protection, boards on the roof should be laid in 2 layers, covering the cracks. Another roof option is metal roofing. The braces that hold the roof on can become skewed over time, so they need to be adjusted every few years.

After this, in the center of the gate you need to attach a cable or chain, on which a wooden or metal bucket is suspended. The ground around the log house can be lined with boards, stones or paving slabs to protect it from dirt. The layer of soil must be removed before doing this.

Approximate cost of a well

The cost of a well depends on many factors. First of all, it depends on the depth of the well. Most often, reinforced concrete rings are used to strengthen the walls of the well, the price of which varies from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles. Burying a ring in the ground costs up to 3,500 rubles, unless of course you do it yourself. In addition, some difficulties may arise in the process of arranging a well. For example, you may come across a block of stone that will be impossible to pull out. In this case, you will have to choose another place. Water-saturated soils can also complicate the work.

It is important to determine in advance the purpose of using the well. If only for drinking and watering, this option will be cheaper. And if, for example, water from it will flow into a house or bathhouse and be used in the winter, it will require the creation of a more complex pipeline system and its thermal insulation, which will significantly increase the cost of work. Therefore, you need to discuss in advance the issue of increasing payment in the event of unforeseen situations. If you enter into an agreement with a company, check whether such nuances are indicated in it in order to avoid unexpected expenses. So, a well with a depth of ten reinforced concrete rings has an approximate cost of 35 thousand rubles, taking into account the cost of work. Some summer residents prefer to save money and dig a well about three rings deep; the cost of such a well is reduced to 15 thousand. However, water from such a source cannot be used for drinking or cooking.

In some cases, a pump is installed in wells, and along with it a house above the well with a bucket on a chain and a shaft is necessary in case of a power outage and to give the well some color. The cost of the pump depends on its power, and the cost of the house depends on its design, materials and size. If the customer wishes, an additional expense item can be the service of removing soil from the site. After all, the entire volume of earth dug up during the work will remain on your territory. If you do not want to remove it yourself, agree in advance on the removal of the soil and the cost of this service.

How to properly care for a well