Winter garlic has not sprouted, what should I do? Why didn't the garlic start? Planting winter varieties of garlic
For good growth and development, it requires well-filled with organic matter, moisture and breathable soils with an alkaline reaction (pH above 7), can tolerate slight shading, but most of all prefers a sunny location. Acidic soils, poor in organic matter, as well as clayey and compacted soils are not suitable for it.
Winter garlic is a cold-resistant plant; it is not afraid of frost; it sprouts in early spring, since the root system of garlic has time to grow well in the fall. But even if planted too late, when the root system has not had time to grow, and the garlic began to stick out of the ground during early frosts, you can plant it again to a depth of about 5 cm. In this case, it will still produce a harvest, albeit a little later than usual.
The best way to plant winter garlic. Prepare a bed for planting somewhere in mid-August, that is, 2 weeks before planting. To do this, add a bucket of compost or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, half a bucket of sand and a liter jar of ash) for each meter of planting. Dig lightly with half a shovel. To disinfect the soil, you need to water it with water and a solution of “Fitosporin” the day before planting.
Before planting, we make depressions 12 - 15 cm deep with a peg. To grow garlic with medium-sized cloves, you need to make markings according to the 10 x 10 cm pattern. Accordingly, if you want to grow larger cloves, then make markings of 15 x 15 cm or even 20 x 20 cm. After this, pour a tablespoon of coarse river sand into each hole, drop in a large granule of AVA fertilizer, drop in a clove of garlic and again a tablespoon of sand. When finished, loosen the plantings with soil.
Thus, garlic planted at the end of August will have time to build up a good root system over the long autumn and will sprout in early spring. If the winter turns out to be warm and the garlic you planted at a shallower depth sprouts, then don’t worry - the garlic will overwinter anyway!
Using this method of planting, the plants stand tall, strong, green, and can easily withstand any weather conditions. They do not need any watering or fertilizing all season. The only thing is that you need to regularly ensure that they are not disturbed by weeds, and also loosen the soil 2 - 3 times a month. The ripening time for such garlic is a month earlier than that which was planted in September - October. And the sand in the holes creates micro-drainage around the clove, and subsequently around the head of garlic, eliminating waterlogging.
When the garlic has a flower arrow, you need to break it off immediately. No amount of twisting or tying the tops will get rid of the shoots, but they will cause harm to the plant, because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, infection will get into the resulting tissue breaks and lead to garlic disease. In order for the bulbs to grow, it is enough to leave one or two of the strongest plants.
As soon as the cap on the flower shoot bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it up to dry with the roots facing up. Then the bulbs can be removed. Or, right in the garden bed, you can put a nylon bag on the cover with the bulbs and tie it so that the grown bulbs do not fall apart. They will be useful to us for improving the health of planting material.
When the lower leaves of the garlic turn yellow, it can be dug up. It is better to dig with a pitchfork than with a shovel. Then you should shake off the soil from the garlic, tie it into loose bunches and hang it somewhere in the attic or attic to dry, again with the roots facing up. Once all the nutrients are transferred to the head of garlic, the leaves will dry out. Now you can trim the roots, peel off excess husks and braid them for winter storage.
You can trim the dried tops, leaving stumps 2-3 cm in size, and hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly scorch it. This process will prevent premature loss of moisture. Then you should put the well-dried garlic in three-liter jars, tie the hole with a cloth and store it, for example, on windowsills. Do not store garlic in the refrigerator - it will spoil faster there!
If, when harvesting, there is rot, mold or anything suspicious on the garlic, then you should clear the heads of excess scales, immediately cut off the tops and roots and dip the heads for half an hour in a solution of "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" and only then allow them to dry by spreading them out. in one layer, for example in the attic.
Some summer residents store garlic, disassembled into cloves, in jars, sprinkled with salt. But this method does not give anything other than unnecessary waste of salt, since salt takes away moisture from the teeth, without which they dry out and wrinkle.
If the garlic begins to deteriorate during storage, then it is better to immediately plant it in a shallow box with soil for forcing the greens, planting the cloves in a 3 x 3 cm pattern. Thus, after three weeks you will get young garlic greens for salads or sandwiches.
If it begins to germinate ahead of schedule, it needs to be planted in a garden bed, having first defrosted the soil with hot water. You can plant it quite densely, and then, in early May, plant it according to the 10 x 10 cm pattern.
In fact, garlic rarely gets sick. Most often this is rot of the bottom or rotting of the head completely. During storage, the disease continues to develop. The reason for this is the development of the plant at high temperatures (28 - 32 ° C), that is, a very hot time at the moment the head of garlic ripens.
Sometimes the flower arrow can soften and deteriorate. Here the cause may be acidic and waterlogged soil or pathogens that came with the husk on the clove or lived in the soil. That is why, before planting, it is recommended to use Fitosporin or another copper-containing preparation (Oxychom, Hom, Polychom) to water the beds, or dilute a tablespoon (without top) of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water. Water according to the following scheme: 2 liters per 1 meter of bed. For prevention, you can soak the cloves in any of these solutions before planting for 15 minutes. Garlic planted at the end of August usually goes away from diseases.
Most often, the pest is a nematode, less often - a pest that eats the flower arrow. Also, if the plant is planted shallowly, the head can be damaged by the larva of the onion fly. Due to the fact that garlic attracts nematodes, it is not recommended to plant garlic and strawberries together, contrary to generally accepted recommendations. There is no escape from it except following the rules of crop rotation. Biological products "Agravertin" or "Fitoferm" will help against other pests.
The improvement of planting material occurs thanks to the collected and dried bulbs, which are planted together with the main garlic. To do this, make grooves approximately 5 cm deep, which are located at the very edge across the bed with garlic. Then pour a layer of sand (2 cm) and lightly sprinkle it with the powder fraction of AVA fertilizer. Next, lay out the bulbs at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from each other. When finished, cover with sand and lightly cover with soil. In the future, no fertilizing is required, only watering during dry times.
The soil must be loosened regularly so that weeds do not clog the garlic seedlings. When the greens begin to turn yellow (usually mid-July), the plants should be removed from the soil and dried as usual. Then again plant small cloves obtained from the bulbs for growing. These cloves are planted separately, that is, at the end of the garlic bed, to a depth of 10 cm during planting in August, or 5 - 6 cm during normal planting. Care is no different from basic planting. In July, planted garlic will produce a harvest in the form of fairly large round bulbs - single cloves. This will be the same healthy planting material that you have been growing for two years. Single cloves in September (or August, depending on when you plant garlic) are planted in the same way as main garlic. But it is better to mark the place where they are planted, since in the future you will use large teeth of the heads grown from single-toothed heads as planting material. Usually, heads with 4 large teeth grow from single-toothed ones.
There is one interesting point when growing new planting material. In the year when garlic has grown from bulbs, it can be left in the garden, in other words, not dug up. The only thing is that you will need to make sure that the plantings are not flooded with water, since the garlic that you leave in waterlogged soil will simply rot. Thus, next year's planting will produce a whole bush of plants, and not a single-toothed one. They will simply need to be planted according to the 10 x 10 (15 x 15) pattern at the very beginning of summer, so that by the fall you will receive new planting material in the form of garlic heads with medium-sized teeth, which can be used for new plantings, having first dried them. In this case, you will save a whole year.
Thank you!
"The Complete Encyclopedia of a Smart Gardener and Vegetable Gardener", G.A. Kizima. - M.:AST; SPb.:Sova, 2010.Winter garlic shoots appear very early, immediately after the snow melts. It is at this time that the foundation is laid for the future harvest of this healthy and unpretentious vegetable - an aromatic seasoning and a storehouse of vitamins and microelements necessary for our body.
Spring garlic care
The success of growing garlic lies in timely and proper care. The first thing to do in early spring is to remove the protective cover from the beds. You cannot be late for this event, otherwise the young green feathers of the plant may be damaged and the seedlings may be damaged.
Beds with winter garlic are covered for the winter in order to protect the plant from the cold and prevent it from freezing
First feeding and pest control
When growing garlic, it is important to provide the plant with the necessary nutrients from the very beginning of the growing season. In the spring of the growing season, the crop needs nitrogen fertilizers, which will have a positive effect on leaf growth. For the first feeding, it is best to use urea, 1 tablespoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for root feeding at a rate of up to 3 liters per 1 square meter. m. Watering with nitrogen fertilizer is carried out early, as soon as the plant produces 3-4 leaves.
In rainy weather, it is better to use a granular composition rather than an aqueous solution of urea to fertilize garlic.
Dry fertilizing of garlic is carried out in furrows up to 2 cm deep, which are then sprinkled with earth.
For the second spring feeding, which is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first, experienced gardeners recommend using nitroammophoska, 2 tbsp. spoons of which are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The solution consumption rate is the same as when adding urea. Fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizer significantly affects the beginning of the formation of the garlic head.
Garlic also responds well to fertilizing with organic fertilizers, with the exception of fresh manure.
- watering with Fitosporin, Maxim, 1% copper sulfate solution will protect garlic from fungal diseases;
- treatment with Epin and Zircon activates the protective functions of the plant and increases its immunity;
- Sprinkling the beds with ash and tobacco dust is good protection against pests.
The ash will not only repel pests, but will also nourish the garlic with essential microelements.
Loosening and weeding
Garlic responds well to loosening the soil, which is necessary for good air circulation. This procedure must be carried out regularly, after each watering or rain, avoiding the formation of a dense crust on the soil. The first loosening is organized early, in April, as soon as young shoots appear on the surface of the soil. Its depth should be no more than 2–3 cm. During subsequent treatments, the loosening depth is increased by approximately 1 cm, reaching a maximum of 10–12 cm - this is the level where the formation of garlic heads occurs.
On light sandy and sandy loam soils, where the roots are provided with oxygen, loosening can be carried out less frequently, and on heavy loamy soils it is necessary after each moistening
For young garlic shoots, an equally important procedure is the removal of weeds, which begin to grow rampant in the spring. Weeds, which grow very quickly, not only obscure the garlic shoots, but also take away the necessary nutrients from them and contribute to the spread of diseases and pests. The beds are cleaned manually, removing both the above-ground part of the weed and its roots.
Garlic does not like weeds and weeding has to be done several times as soon as weeds begin to appear.
In clean beds, garlic heads grow larger and healthier, as they receive enough nutrition and light.
Mulching the soil
Weeding and loosening are labor-intensive procedures. To reduce their number, it is recommended to mulch garlic plantings with peat, rotted manure, straw, sawdust, and dry grass. In addition to making it more difficult for weeds to get through the mulch, this procedure has a number of other positive aspects:
- when peat and humus are used as mulch, the crop receives additional nutrition;
- if mulching is carried out after the first loosening, then the moisture from the bed will not evaporate so quickly, and therefore a hard crust will not form on the surface, preventing good air exchange;
- The mulch will rot over the season and become an excellent fertilizer for new cultivated plants.
When mulching with straw, its layer should be about 10 cm
Mulching will have a positive effect only if the features of using various compositions for covering the soil are taken into account:
- the thickness of the layer when mulching with mown grass should not exceed 2 cm. A thicker layer can lead to the formation of a slimy mass;
- straw used as mulch can attract mice and slugs;
- dry grass contains a large number of weed seeds;
- sawdust, as well as pine needles, have an acidifying effect on the soil, so they are recommended to be used only on soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction.
Rules for watering and saline treatment
Garlic loves moisture. With its deficiency, it does not die, but forms small heads and begins to turn yellow and dry ahead of time. It should be taken into account that excess moisture leads to the development of putrefactive diseases, deterioration of the taste of the cloves (they will be watery), as well as poor keeping quality of the heads. When organizing irrigation, you should focus on the weather and soil conditions. The need for soil moisture can be determined as follows:
- dig a hole about 10 cm deep in the garlic bed;
- Take a handful of earth from the bottom of the hole and squeeze it in your palm;
- If the lump of earth does not crumble when squeezed, the garlic does not need watering. A crumbling handful signals the need for hydration.
The need for watering is not determined by the condition of the top layer of soil; it should not be allowed to dry out at the depth of formation and growth of heads
Watering is best done in the evening. During the day, the moisture partially evaporates, and during the night it will all be absorbed into the soil and moisten it as much as possible. An approximate watering scheme may look like this:
- if the spring is rainy and damp, then there is no need to water the plantings;
- in moderately hot weather with small amounts of natural precipitation, watering is carried out once every 7–10 days;
- In hot, dry spring, watering is organized every 4–5 days with a consumption rate of at least a bucket of water per 1 square meter. m.
Frequent watering with small amounts of water is undesirable for garlic, since moisture, having wetted only the top layer of soil, quickly evaporates
In spring, the flight of the main garlic pest, the onion fly, begins. To repel it, preventative spraying of garlic plantings with saline solution is carried out:
Additional treatments with saline solution are carried out only if signs of pest damage to the garlic are observed: the seedlings begin to turn yellow, become brittle and stunted. In this case, spraying is carried out twice more with a break of 10–15 days, and the concentration of the solution should be the same as during preventive treatment.
Please note that sodium and chlorine contained in salt water can disrupt the ecology of the soil, deplete it, and inhibit the growth and development of plants. A saline solution can destroy and repel not only pests, but also beneficial insects, so it must be used carefully. If after two or three treatments no positive effect is observed, then other methods of pest control should be used.
Video: spring garlic care
If the garlic has not sprouted
Sometimes in a garden bed with garlic, instead of the expected friendly shoots, only individual sprouts appear. In this case, experienced gardeners advise digging up several planted cloves and assessing their condition:
- If the clove is alive, strong, and its roots begin to grow, then you should water the garden bed, add fertilizer, and after a while the garlic will sprout. The reason for the delay is most likely that the planting was too deep or too late;
- If the dug clove has become soft, has no root buds and shows signs of rotting, then it has frozen and will not sprout.
Garlic freezing can occur for several reasons:
- winter garlic was planted early (in September-early October). In the fall, it managed not only to take root, but also to germinate;
- the landing was too shallow (less than 5 cm);
- the garlic bed is organized in the shade, so during severe frosts the ground froze earlier and deeper;
- the plantings were not covered for the winter with spruce branches, fallen leaves or other available material.
In this case, planting spring garlic, which is carried out at the end of April, will help save the situation. Winter garlic planted in the spring most often produces a single-claw bulb, which will not be stored for long and should be immediately processed.
Spring care of garlic is standard and simple, but in order not to forget to carry out all the required measures, it is recommended to draw up a schedule of fertilizing and treatments. It will help you provide the plant with nutrients in a timely manner and prevent diseases and pests.
It is more profitable to grow winter garlic: its yield is noticeably higher than that of spring garlic, and in many varieties you can get absolutely healthy planting material - aerial bulbs (bulbs) formed in inflorescences. Spring garlic has one advantage: it is well stored in the winter in the apartment.
There is winter garlic, which is planted before winter, and there is spring garlic, which is planted in the spring. The difference between them is that in winter garlic the future flower arrow is embedded in the clove, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the clove as a darker circle. Spring garlic does not bolt. It reproduces only by cloves. Externally, they are easy to distinguish: spring usually has 2 rows of small teeth, and winter one has one row, usually of 4-6 large teeth.
In winter garlic, at the end of July, small bulbs form at the end of the arrow, which are used for propagation of garlic along with the cloves.
In the North-West region, it is recommended to plant garlic on August 25-27. During the long, warm autumn it manages to develop a powerful root system. Don’t worry, it won’t sprout if you plant it at a depth of 12-15 cm. It will be ready a month later than usual, but before the rains. This garlic stores much better.
But spring garlic can be planted in autumn, not spring, but at the usual depth - 7-8 cm. When planted this way, it produces large cloves.
Try it and see for yourself.
WINTER GARLIC
If there are no signs of disease on the cloves, they can be planted immediately; if there are any doubts about diseases, then soak the cloves for half an hour before planting in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.
Garlic needs well-filled with organic matter, moisture- and breathable soils with an alkaline reaction (PH above 7), prefers a sunny location, but can tolerate slight shading.
Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, is not afraid of frost, and sprouts early in the spring, since the root system of garlic has time to grow well in the fall. But if planted too late, the root system does not have time to grow, and the garlic bulges out of the ground when frost sets in early. But even in this case, if you plant it again to a depth of about 5 cm, it will produce a harvest, although somewhat later than usual.
Garlic can be planted something like this. The bed is prepared for planting around mid-August, 2 weeks before planting. Add compost (a bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, half a bucket of sand, a liter jar of ash) for each meter of planting. Dig lightly with half a shovel. On the eve of planting, water well with water and a solution of “Fitosporin” to disinfect the soil.
Before planting, make depressions 12-15 cm deep with a peg. To obtain large teeth, make markings according to the pattern 15x15 and even 20x20, but 10x10 cm is also possible. Then 1 tbsp is poured into each hole. spoon of coarse river sand, drop in a large granule of AVA fertilizer, then a clove of garlic and again 1 tbsp. spoon of sand. After this planting, loosen the soil.
Garlic does not sprout from such a great depth (with the exception of southern or imported varieties). But even if it sprouts, don’t worry: the garlic will overwinter. It does not require any feeding or watering throughout the entire season. The only thing that should be done regularly is to make sure that they are not disturbed by weeds, and also to loosen them a couple of times a month. Sand introduced into the holes creates micro-drainage around the clove, and then around the growing head of garlic, and therefore relieves it from waterlogging.
When garlic has a flower shoot, it should be broken off immediately. No amount of twisting or tying the tops will get rid of the shoots, but it will harm the plant because the leaves stop working normally. One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow in order for the bulbs to grow.
As soon as the cap on the flower shoot bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. You will need them to improve the health of planting material.
After the lower leaves of the garlic have turned yellow, you can dig it up, preferably with a pitchfork rather than a shovel. The garlic should be shaken off the soil and tied into loose bunches, hung upside down to dry. When the nutrients are completely transferred from the leaves to the head, the leaves will dry out. Now you need to trim the roots, peel off the excess husk, braid it and hang it in the kitchen for winter storage and use. You can trim the dried tops, leaving stumps 2-3 cm high, hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly scorch the bottom - this will protect the head from premature loss of moisture. Then you need to put the well-dried garlic into three-liter jars, tie the hole with a cloth and store the garlic on the windowsills. There is no need to store garlic in the refrigerator - it will spoil faster there.
If, when harvesting garlic, you find mold, rot or anything else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales, immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads for half an hour in a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Maxim” and only then dry them, spreading them in one layer in the attic.
If garlic begins to deteriorate during storage, it is better to immediately plant it in a shallow box with soil for forcing the greens, planting the cloves in a 3x3 cm pattern. In three weeks, you will receive young garlic greens, which can be used for salads and green sandwiches. If the garlic begins to germinate ahead of schedule, then it must be planted in the garden (even at the end of March), defrosting the soil with hot water. You can plant it quite densely, and then, in early May, plant it according to a 10x10 or 15x15 cm pattern.
The tips of garlic leaves lighten for the same reasons as onions. ().
Garlic is more rare. The main problem is rot of the bottom or rotting of the entire head.
Sometimes the flower arrow softens and deteriorates. The reason is acidic and waterlogged soil or pathogens that came with the husk on the clove or lived in the soil. That is why the soil must be treated, as already mentioned, with a solution of “Fitosporin”. It is useful to soak garlic cloves in a solution of Fitosporin for 15 minutes before planting for preventive purposes.
Among the pests, nematodes are often found, and occasionally - a pest that eats the flower arrow. When planting garlic shallowly, the head can be damaged by the larva of the onion fly. There is no salvation from the nematode except for proper crop rotation. For other pests you should use biological products "Fitoverm" or "Agravertin".
To improve the health of planting material, collected and dried bulblets are planted simultaneously with the main garlic. Make shallow (about 5 cm) grooves across the bed with garlic, at the very edge. A layer of sand about 2 cm high is poured onto the bottom, lightly sprinkled with the powder fraction of AVA fertilizer and the bulbs are laid out at a distance of 5 cm from each other. Then they are sprinkled with sand and lightly covered with soil on top. They will not require any feeding, but watering in dry times is necessary.
When the grown greenery begins to turn yellow in mid-summer, the plants should be removed from the soil, dried as usual, and small cloves obtained from the bulbs should be planted again for growing. These cloves are planted separately at the end of the garlic bed to a depth of about 10 cm when planting in August and to a depth of 5-6 cm when planting normally. Care is the same as for main plantings. In July, when you dig up garlic, you will find fairly large, round, single-toothed bulbs. This is the same healthy planting material. They are planted in the same way as the main garlic, but it is better to mark the place where they are planted, because in the future you will use cloves grown from single cloves as planting material. Usually, heads with four very large teeth grow from single teeth.
SPRING GARLIC
Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only the cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Do not plant in waterlogged soil; the cloves may rot in cold, wet soil. Caring for spring garlic is exactly the same as caring for winter garlic. The pests and diseases are the same.
Spring garlic is dug up later than winter garlic, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, dig them up immediately, because the head may crumble into separate teeth in the soil. You can store spring garlic directly on the kitchen shelf or in the closet.
Kizima G.A. New ideas on 6 acres for the garden
In addition to the general rules, caring for, planting and growing garlic has its own characteristics for winter and spring varieties. For the full development of the plant and preservation of the harvest, it is also necessary to ensure the fight against diseases and pests.
General rules for growing garlic: types and methods of propagation
Growing garlic has some nuances for the following types:
- winter. Gives an arrow that is very resistant to frost. It is planted in the fall, it overwinters, and in the next season a full-fledged large head grows;
- spring Doesn't give arrows. Planting is in the spring; it can be stored for longer periods, but its yield is not so high.
Reproduction methods, selection of cloves and seeds
Garlic reproduces vegetatively; the bolting species also reproduces by seeds.
For planting, only the cloves of the bulbs are selected from the spring species; the winter variety can be propagated by cloves and seeds from the aerial bulbs. But in the latter case, you need to wait 2 years for the harvest of full-fledged bulbs.
In the first year, the bulb will produce a small onion set of one clove. It has the same beneficial qualities as regular garlic. Next year a normal bulb with many cloves will grow.
Gardeners often prefer shooting garlic: it gives a good harvest.
winter bolting garlic
Reproduction is mainly carried out by cloves: full-fledged bulbs are harvested in the year of planting. Every gardener knows how important it is to select the best, healthy seed. It is also recommended to periodically update varieties. When selecting heads, it does not matter the type - spring or winter - the healthiest and highest quality cloves are selected based on the shape and weight of the cloves.
Necessary actions before planting:
Sorting material by size and appearance. Remove small, disease-infected, cracked bottoms, irregular in shape, with two tips, shrunken, double garlic;
Remove dry, flabby teeth with any diseases;
Leave the garlic intact, large, with an intact shell;
The selected material must be disinfected with an ash solution: 400 g of ash per 200 g of water. The mixture is boiled for half an hour, then cooled and drained. The cloves soak in it for 2 hours. If there is a suspicion of fungal infection, the heads are kept in a formaldehyde solution and then dried.
Planting and growing spring varieties of garlic is also carried out sprouted material: This will speed up the growth of the plant.
Necessary conditions for germination: the cloves are wrapped in a damp cloth, placed in a polyethylene bag, and kept for 3 days at room temperature. If they are grown with seeds from arrows, then select healthy arrows with large baskets and dry them. The largest and most mature ones are used - small ones are also planted, but they will not provide high-quality planting material.
Growing garlic: soil, beds, crop rotation
Proper cultivation of garlic includes soil care and fertilization. If it is poor, additional complex fertilizer or superphosphates with potassium chloride (proportion 4:1) is added to it. Regular manure added to the ground in the fall will increase the yield. It will require 5 kg per 1 sq. m., if the soil is very poor, this rate can be increased. But you shouldn't overuse it: garlic does not like overly fertilized soil. The soil should be light, sandy or loamy.
Growing garlic will give good results if you create the necessary conditions, including sufficiently fertile soil, fertilizing, and watering. Sandy loam or loamy fertile soils that garlic loves should be cultivated and with acidity indicator is closer to neutral. An overly moistened substrate, especially during the period when the soil gains moisture from melt water in the spring, harms the development of the plant. In this case, winter varieties will become wet, and spring varieties will become impossible to plant on time.
Depending on the species being planted, different depths, widths of rows, and row spacing are chosen. General care and necessary conditions in all cases:
Carefully leveled soil, fertilizing and mulching the beds after planting. For this, humus is used, less often peat. For 1 sq. m. 10 liters will be enough, that is, a bucket.
Planting is done in beds with wide row spacing. Place for them: sunny, well lit.
garlic bed
Below are the necessary conditions regarding the proximity of other plants and sowing changes. The main thing is not to plant garlic in beds where there were garlic and onions before. After them, you need to wait 4 years to renew the soil. The same goes for potatoes. After beets, cucumbers, cabbage, any legumes, pumpkins, garlic will give the best harvest. The soil after them, as a rule, is optimally fertilized with organic matter, caring for it is easier, and the possibility of disease is reduced. But it is not recommended to share the same beds with them: they inhibit the development and growth of garlic.
The best planting for light-loving garlic - in separate unshaded beds. If there is not much space, they organize rows adjacent to vegetables, possibly even berries. Neighborhood allowed with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, black currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries. Neighborhood with gladioli, tulips, roses will be beneficial. Caring for the latter will be easier: garlic protects them from black spot.
Growing spring garlic
For spring varieties, planting in spring is relevant.
The necessary conditions:
Planting after the snow has melted (April - May);
Temperature regime for disembarkation is from +5°C and above. At this time, the soil is usually moist, so watering is not necessary. If the soil is dry, you will need to moisten the soil generously.
The spring variety is planted at a depth of twice the height of the clove (3-5 cm). If the clove has been germinated, it must be planted carefully so as not to harm the roots. Next, immediately mulch the beds. Planting and growing garlic is not particularly difficult. Rows are made with an interval of 18-20 cm, garlic is placed after 7-9 cm.
Garlic sprouts at +3°C and above; it is not afraid of frost.
Necessary conditions for better development at different stages:
Beginning of the growing season: +5…+10°C;
Birth and formation of bulbs: +15…+20°C;
Development and maturation: +20…+25°C.
For a high-quality harvest, mulching the beds is mandatory, especially if the crop grows in a region with hot summers. Light mulch is recommended (straw, hay).
planting garlic cloves
Planting winter varieties of garlic
Growing winter varieties of garlic has its own characteristics. Necessary conditions for this:
- disembarkation time: September October. Timeliness is important: early will cause growth ahead of time, which will reduce frost resistance; late - the cloves will not have the strength to take root well, frost will prevent this;
- the soil must settle, so the site is prepared a week before planting. Next, create furrows, pour a 1.5-3 cm layer of coarse sand or ash on their bottom, so the seedlings will not come into contact with the soil and rot;
- interval between rows - 20-25 cm, garlic is planted every 8-10 cm or 12-15 if they are very large. For winter crops, a deeper planting is desirable - 8 cm in loose soil.
- care includes mulching the beds: this additionally protects against the cold. A 1.5-2 cm layer of mulch is sufficient. It is made from dry peat, a mixture of sawdust and soil. In case of severe frosts and little snow cover, the beds are covered with polyethylene; roofing felt is also suitable. But they need to be removed immediately when the snow starts to fall so that it covers the ground. Instead of these materials, you can use a thicker layer of mulch.
Seeds from bulb bulbs are planted at the same time to a 2-centimeter depth, according to a 2x10 cm planting pattern. They are also sown in early spring - by mid-April. The one-toothed harvest obtained from the arrows is pulled out of the ground, dried, planted again - the next year they produce full-fledged bulbs. Winter garlic is resistant to cold. Rooted garlic can withstand winter and frost with temperatures down to -20°C. But if there is not enough snow, too low a temperature can lead to freezing, so you definitely need to mulch the beds, throw snow on them and cover them.
In the warm season, winter varieties require the same care as spring varieties: the temperature regime, watering, fertilizing, and mulch in the summer months are the same.
Flower arrows in the corresponding winter species, they are removed when they reach 10 cm, due to this the harvest is more generous. Plants with arrows are left if bulbs are needed for seeds.
Growing garlic: care, watering, feeding
Growing and caring for garlic consists of the following points: mulching, watering, loosening, fertilizing, weeding.
Watering the garlic should not be too abundant. The norm is to water 10 liters per square meter if the soil is very dry. The interval is a week. As water matures, less water is required (8-6 liters) to prevent the bulbs from rotting. Two weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped. Watering can be characterized by the following rule: excessive moisture harms garlic, but it requires systematic soil moisture, especially in the early growing season.
After each moistening of the soil loosens carefully by 2-3 cm. If there is mulch, this is not required. The arrows are removed when they reach 5-8 cm - the harvest will be more generous. The first feeding is done after 2-3 leaves have formed: a large spoon of urea is diluted in a bucket of water. For 1 sq.m. 5 liters will be enough. The next feeding is in two weeks: a teaspoon of urea is enough for a bucket of water, one large spoon of double superphosphate, potassium sulfate. The third (last) feeding is at the end of June, when garlic shoots form, bulbs form and shoots appear. For a bucket of water, 2 large spoons of double superphosphate and one of potassium sulfate are enough.
Top dressing combined with irrigation. In the period between fertilizers, the plants are sprinkled with wood ash: one glass per 1 square meter. If there is mulch, loosening is not required. The best mulch for garlic is made from straw. The bed is covered with it when the seedlings reach 10-15 cm. It does not allow moisture to evaporate - watering can be done less frequently.
Feeding is also carried out according to the following scheme:
First: in the spring after the snow melts. Solutions that are well suited for this are: manure (cow) (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12);
Second: June - July. A solution is prepared from ash: 200 g per 10 liters of water.
Weeding carried out systematically as weeds appear. Watering for winter varieties should be more abundant. In winter, snow is thrown over the beds.
Watering rules:
The first phase (active growth) is abundant;
The second phase (bulb ripening) is moderate;
During the rainy season, watering is stopped altogether.
High humidity in the second half of the growing season can cause diseases and damping off of the bulbs.
The garlic must be detached from the head at the time of planting. It is recommended to choose the outermost slices: they produce a more generous harvest. Planting is carried out not by pressing into the soil, but by placing it in a dug hole.
As soon as the shoots appear, the soil is loosened, but only 1-2 cm deep, then the bed is mulched, and pre-fertilized with mullein or urea. If the soil of the garden bed is dry, it should be watered, otherwise the garlic will be dry and bitter.
Growing garlic of spring varieties does not require deep planting - 2-3 cm is enough, for winter varieties - 8 cm. The harvest is harvested as soon as the leaves begin to wither.
Growing garlic: pests and diseases
Growing garlic is often accompanied by diseases:
- helminthospirosis. The reason is a fungus. Brown sunken spots on teeth. Over time, the spots turn black and the tissue of the teeth rots. Planting is not done with such teeth: chlorotic spots will appear on the plants, they will be lethargic, and the leaves will die. Garlic with white scales is most often affected. Infection occurs through low-quality material, so it is etched with formaldehyde - 2-3 ml per half liter of water is enough. The teeth are dipped into it for 10 minutes in a bag. Take it out, wrap it in cloth for 2 hours, then dry it and ventilate it. Garlic can become infected with this disease in the garden from bulbs or nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes);
- cervical rot. Appears along with other diseases. It especially develops with improper storage and transportation, as well as on unripe and damp heads. Infection can occur from diseased planting material or from the soil. Treatment: disinfection of the storage area with formaldehyde, sorting and removal of diseased material;
- bottom rot - fusarium. The reason is a fungus. Symptoms: yellow leaves, death of the roots, a coating of mycelium (mycelium) on the bottom of a white, pink hue, which causes the bulb to rot. The fungicide "Quadris" gives good treatment results; antifungal agents are also used;
-bacterial rot. The causative agents are bacteria. Symptoms: brown sores on garlic, they become glassy, their color changes, and there is a rotten smell. Treatment: before planting, etch in copper sulfate, in a fungicide, for example, in “Fundazol”;
- powdery mildew - peronospirosis. Symptoms: a gray coating on the leaves, arrows, dried out affected parts of the plant, unripe bulbs. Means: dressing with Tiram fungicide, fentiuram. Spraying with fungicides ("Arcerid", polycarbacide);
- white rot. The reason is a fungus. Symptoms: yellowing, dying of leaves, white mycelium on roots, bulbs. Means: dressing before planting with Tiram, foundation, anti-fungal agents;
- green mold - penicillosis. Means: soil disinfection with copper-containing fungicides, care of planting material and its treatment with formaldehyde;
- black mold - stemphylliosis. Symptoms: yellow spots on the leaves, which are gradually covered with black mold. This is not fatal, but it reduces the harvest. The remedies are the same as against other fungal diseases;
Stem nematode. Treatment: etching in a solution of potassium permanganate and formaldehyde.
fusarium
Folk remedies for combating garlic diseases:
Against powdery mildew. Ash solution: 200 g per 10 l, aged for 5 days. Mullein infusion: 1 kg per 10 liters of water, you need to infuse for a day. Horsetail decoction is also used for spraying;
Against fungal diseases. Infusion of marigold erecta: 500 g, pour 10 liters of hot water, leave for 12 hours.
Of the pests, the most dangerous are onion flies, their larvae; they feed on onions. Onion hoverflies, thrips, secretive proboscis, moths, stem nematodes, as well as root and garlic mites are dangerous. Control agents: insecticides "Rogor" or "Keltan", etching with colloidal sulfur.
Chicory and calendula planted nearby will protect garlic.
Prevention and necessary conditions to exclude diseases:
Planting and growing garlic only from healthy seed, which is systematically checked and sorted during storage;
Etching if necessary;
Ventilation, cleaning, removal of organic residues from storage;
Proper care, crop rotation and crop change;
Well-lit beds.
In the spring we came to the garden and discovered that our garlic had sprouted very poorly. We planted three different “varieties”: one of our own and two others bought at the market. Great hopes were placed on large garlic, which is usually traded by southerners. It had white bulbs and very large teeth. All three varieties were planted in the same bed, one after the other. Southern garlic died completely. Our own has sprouted, but rarely. The garlic bought from a pensioner performed best. It wasn't that big, but it was lilac. They say that lilac garlic stores well.
At the beginning of May, we planted several more rows of our winter garlic, which stayed with us until spring. But when they began to harvest, they discovered that the new garlic did not set bulbs. One thick stalk grew, like a leek. Why did this happen? After all, we planted our own garlic, that is, the same as in the fall. The autumn one grew normal bulbs (pictured). Now it is clear that for planting garlic will have to be purchased again. Tell me what kind of garlic to choose so that it winters well? N.P. Maslova, Nizhny Novgorod region.
In our newspaper we have already discussed the topic of poor wintering of garlic (Magic Bed No. 8(185), 2010). The reason is that in the Nizhny Novgorod region there were frosts without snow in December. If the garlic was planted shallowly and not covered with tops or other mulching material, then in most cases it froze.
Now about the fact that different varieties of garlic overwintered differently. Large garlic purchased at the market was most likely overfed with organic fertilizers. Under these conditions, it grows a very large bulb (gardeners say “inflated”). This is good for sale: garlic quickly gains weight and gets an excellent presentation. But it is not suitable for storage. Typically, such bulbs are poorly stored and do not overwinter well.
At the same time, there are examples where garlic brought from the south (but grown with normal doses of fertilizers) overwinters normally. Naturally, subject to planting conditions: depth of 5 cm and mulching of the bed.
And finally, the main question: why did the garlic planted in spring fail to set bulbs? Garlic varieties are divided into winter and spring varieties. There is almost no difference in taste. You can distinguish by appearance: the spring variety has many small teeth and very thin, “papery” scales (the winter variety has dense ones).
The main difference is in the timing of planting. Winter garlic is planted two weeks before heavy frosts (in the middle zone this is approximately mid-October). Spring garlic is planted in the spring, as soon as the soil allows (usually in April). The fact is that for normal growth, winter garlic must go through a cooling period. Only in this case does the bulb begin to form. When planting in the spring, and even later (in May), the bulb does not form. The plant simply thickens the base of the stem. Such plants will not overwinter, they will simply rot. But you can eat them as food and put them in pickles in the same way as ordinary teeth.
If you have grown a lot of “stem” garlic, try pickling it. To do this, chop finely and sprinkle with salt. You can simply leave the garlic in the garden and consume it as needed. Unlike “normal” garlic, the leaves of “spring” garlic have not yet dried out. As long as they are green, the plant continues to grow.
When choosing garlic to plant, try to buy it at garden shows or nursery stores. Or purchase from familiar gardeners if you know that their garlic is stored well.
When purchasing, carefully inspect each bulb to ensure it is not soft and without dark spots. When planting garlic, it is recommended to remove its skin and discard all cloves with dark spots. And it’s even better not to plant such garlic at all. If the bulb is infected with a disease, then it is also present on clean teeth, it just has not yet manifested itself. Only perfectly healthy bulbs are suitable for planting and long-term storage.
Remember, only healthy garlic will keep well. To grow one, do not plant garlic in the same place and follow the planting rules.
You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Bed" 2010 No. 16.
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