Zucchini growing and care in open ground: tips and tricks, videos and photos. Without zucchini, life is not the same. What is added when planting zucchini

Zucchini, planting and caring for in open ground, which have their own characteristics, are representatives of the Pumpkin family. A universal vegetable with excellent taste began to be used in cooking only in the 18th century, although it was brought to Europe two centuries earlier, where it was initially cultivated as a rare greenhouse plant.

Zucchini is represented by two types - zucchini and white-fruited, which in turn are classified based on different parameters:

• according to the shape of the bush - bush and semi-bush;
• according to the shape of the fruit - oblong and round;
• by ripening period - early, mid-ripening, late-ripening.

Many breeders, both domestic and foreign agro-industrial complex, are working on developing new varieties and hybrids.

Among the most famous, the following are particularly popular:

1. Aeronaut– bush zucchini, distinguished by its compact size. A plant with a small number of lashes demonstrates high yield. The cylindrical fruits are dark green in color with light specks and have creamy, slightly sweet pulp, which is covered with a thin peel. The variety is suitable for conservation.
2. White– an early ripening variety, the ripening period of which is 40 days. White, oval-shaped fruits with juicy pulp are suitable for long-term storage.
3. Black handsome– a variety with high yields, owing its name to the dark green, close to black, color of the fruit with white flesh. Vegetables are used for food and preparations for the winter season.
4. Yellowfruited– bush zucchini of early ripening, distinguished by its high carotene content in slightly ribbed, cylindrical fruits of yellow color. An excellent vegetable for creating children's meals.
5. Cavili– a very early hybrid that demonstrates high productivity and a long fruiting period, during which straight green fruits develop with white pulp that is delicate in taste. The hybrid is resistant to powdery mildew.

Basic requirements for growing

In order to obtain high annual harvest rates, a number of requirements must be taken into account when cultivating zucchini in open ground:

• correct selection of varieties and hybrids, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region and the purpose of the vegetable;
• competent choice of location, taking into account lighting and soil composition;
• compliance with crop rotation;
• organization of necessary care, including timely implementation of treatments against pests and diseases.

Growing seedlings at home

Growing zucchini from seeds for seedlings makes it possible to enjoy mature vegetables much earlier than when sowing seeds directly into the beds in the garden.

To grow seedlings, you must follow the instructions:

1. A month before the planned date of planting seedlings in garden beds, the seeds are immersed for two days in an aqueous solution of ash, prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the product per 1 liter of water.
2. At this time, a light substrate with a slightly alkaline reaction is prepared from peat, humus, turf soil and sawdust in a ratio of 4:2:2:1.
3. The soil mixture is laid out in peat pots up to 10 cm in diameter and watered with a slightly pink solution of manganese.
4. The seeds are buried 2 cm into the substrate and covered with glass.
5. After the sprouts appear, the glass is removed and the seedlings are moved to a cooler room with diffused light.
6. After a week, the temperature is restored to its previous level and is 20-22°C.
7. Before planting in the garden, seedlings are watered with filtered water as needed.

Important! The method of sowing through seedlings is not suitable for those gardeners whose goal is to store fresh vegetables.

Planting zucchini in open ground

After a month has passed, after sprouts appear and there is no longer any risk of return frosts, the seedlings are planted in open ground.

Soil and location requirements

For growing zucchini, an area is selected that is located in the sun and protected from the wind, with a low level of groundwater. The crop is very demanding on soil composition, preferring fertile soil with a slightly acidic reaction and loose structure.

The area for zucchini is prepared as follows:

1. In the fall, the remaining vegetation is removed.
2. The soil is dug to a depth of 25 cm and enriched with nutrients at an application rate of 5 kg of compost, 20 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate per 1 m².
3. With the arrival of spring, the soil on the site is loosened, and 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m² is added.

After what can you plant?

The optimal vegetable precursors are nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes), cruciferous vegetables (cabbage, radishes), small-seeded vegetables (dill, carrots) and legumes. If pumpkins (cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini) were cultivated on the site last season, then planting should be carried out only after a three-year interval in order to avoid the high probability of damage to the plant by specialized harmful organisms.

Landing technology

Planting of seedlings is carried out in cloudy weather according to the following algorithm:

1. In the prepared area, planting holes are dug according to a 50x70 cm pattern, where 50 cm is the interval between specimens, and 70 cm is the row spacing.
2. A small amount of ash with humus is placed in the recesses.
3. The seedling is buried in the hole up to the cotyledon leaves, after which the soil is filled up, compacted and watered.

Caring for zucchini in open ground

To grow a high-quality and rich harvest, you should carry out comprehensive care, including watering, fertilizing, removing weeds and other measures.

Pollination

If there are no bees during the flowering period, it may be necessary to carry out a pollination procedure:

1. A male flower is picked that does not have an ovary on the reverse side.
2. The petals are removed from the flower, after which the stamens of the female flowers are marked with the exposed pistil.

Watering

After sunset, you can start watering the zucchini at the roots with settled, sun-warmed water:

• In the summer, before the leaf plates close, moistening is carried out daily.
• After the soil is covered with leaves, watering is reduced to 1 time every 4 days.

Advice! In case of air drought, the leaves of the crop are sprayed.

Feeding and fertilizers

During the growth period of zucchini, three-time feeding is carried out, which provides the plant with the necessary macro- and microelements for good fruiting:

1. During the period of active growth of green mass, the first feeding is carried out, which includes 400 g of mullein and 20 g of nitroammofoska, diluted in a bucket of water, with a rate of 1 liter of solution per bush.
2. With the onset of flowering, add 40 g of wood ash and 50 g of superphosphate, diluted in 10 liters of water at the same application rate.
3. During the ripening period, a third feeding is carried out in the form of a manure solution with the addition of 50 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of wood ash.

Loosening and mulching

The next day after watering, loosening is carried out to provide the deep-lying root system of the zucchini with the necessary aeration and water permeability. To reduce time and effort on constant loosening, you can mulch the tree trunk circles.

Pinching zucchini

In climbing representatives of pumpkins, the central stem is removed at the beginning of the budding phase when it reaches a length of 1.2 m. For bush forms of zucchini, pinching is not carried out.

Treatments

As preventive measures to prevent the development of diseases and the colonization of crops by pests, preventive treatment of zucchini is carried out with a tank mixture, which includes a copper-containing fungicide and an insecticidal preparation. Plants are sprayed 10 days after planting in open ground.

Diseases, pests and control methods

Despite preventive measures, the following diseases may occur in zucchini:

• Fungal diseases (powdery mildew, root, gray and apical rot, anthracnose) - if diseases develop, a two-stage spraying of the crop with fungicides should be immediately organized with an interval of 10-14 days. Blossom rot mainly affects young shoots.
• Bacterial diseases (bacteriosis) – if there are signs of disease, plants are treated with copper-containing preparations.

The crop is often attacked by pests such as aphids, whiteflies and slugs. To effectively combat the first two types of insects, chemical protection agents in the form of insecticidal preparations are used. However, in the case of gastropod pests, only the mechanical method demonstrates the result.

Collection and storage of zucchini

Vegetables are collected as the fruits ripen and the purpose of their use:

• For cooking and preservation, unripe fruits with small and soft seeds inside are collected.
• For storage purposes, ripe vegetables with thick skins must be collected.

Zucchini, like pumpkin, can be stored for a long period if you follow these rules:

1. The cut is made with pruning shears in such a way that a long stalk remains.
2. The selected fruits are placed in a dry, cool room where free air circulation can be ensured.

So, growing a low-calorie and nutritious vegetable that is suitable for cooking and preserving is not difficult, if you take into account the characteristics of the crop and follow comprehensive care.

People have been growing zucchini on their plots for a long time. The vegetable bears fruit well, is quite unpretentious, and is often used in cooking. It has dietary qualities, while being tasty. Zucchini can be stewed, fried, stuffed, canned, or cooked with caviar. But still, when growing zucchini, it is worth considering some factors so that they please you with a good harvest.

Perhaps this is where we should start growing zucchini. After all, the success of the harvest largely depends on the choice of variety! Not every variety is suitable for a certain climate and soil.

Variety	Description
	This early-ripening hybrid variety has short shoots, the fruits are cylindrical in shape, the weight reaches 1 kg - they are not very large. Zucchini pulp is white and quite dense.
	The variety is good - resistant to pests, a changeable climate is also not a hindrance. Ripens well in dry weather. Fruit weight is 3.5 kilos.
	Many people will like this variety, because in any weather a good harvest is guaranteed! It also bears fruit in the shade. The vegetables are large - up to three kilos, white-green.
	Increased productivity. Light green fruits 700 g.
	The variety is early, ripens in seven weeks. The fruits have a ribbed surface and weigh 1.8 kg.
	The fruits are tasty, weight – 900 grams. Resistant to powdery mildew. It tolerates other diseases well.
	An interesting variety, named because of the pulp - it tends to disintegrate into fibers if it is subjected to heat treatment. Weight – up to 2.5 kilos. Direct their lashes in the right direction in time, otherwise this variety will easily take over the entire area! If this is not part of your plans, then try to avoid the active growth of lashes.
	High yield. Vegetables with a white smooth surface ripen after sowing in forty days. The flesh is tender. The variety is good for transportation and can be stored for a long time. But it is not without its drawbacks: growing it will require more space, since the bushes of this variety are very large.
	High degree of productivity. From one square meter you can collect up to 20 kg of fruit.
	Produces a huge number of ovaries. The fruits have a pleasant salad color and are delicate in taste. Can be stored for a long time. They ripen early.

With proper care, any of the varieties will delight you with their harvest. The main thing is to follow some simple rules.

Proper preparation of beds

This vegetable can be called demanding on soil fertility. You will have to apply different fertilizers based on the composition of the soil.

Soil type	Recommendations
Peat	Add two kilos of compost per square meter (can be replaced with humus). And also a bucket of clay soil. Sprinkle potassium sulfate and also superphosphate (a spoon of each is enough), add a couple of spoons of ash. After this, dig up the bed (depth approximately 25 cm, width 70 cm), level the surface. Water the bed with a warm solution of Rossa or Agricola-5. Use 3 liters of fertilizer per sq.m. Insulate the bed with film.
Sandy	A bucket of turf soil, four kilos of humus with sawdust. A bucket of peat will not be superfluous. Fertilizers - superphosphate, ash.
Chernozem fertile	Season one sq.m. two kilos of sawdust, add two tablespoons of superphosphate with ash.
Clayey	Enter per sq.m. three kilos of sawdust, peat, you can add the same amount of humus. You also can’t do without mineral fertilizers - you need to add wood ash and superphosphate (a couple of spoons each).
Loamy	Everything is simple here - take the components for the previous soil.

If you need to develop a new area for zucchini, then remove any roots from the ground at the time of digging, and remove the larvae of the cockchafer, if any are found. In the first year after planting, three kilos of humus, a spoon of nitrophoska, and two of wood ash are added. Compost will be suitable instead of humus. Next, dig up the area and water it with liquid fertilizer.

Seed preparation

It is important to properly treat the seeds before planting. First, warm them up so that the seedlings grow more smoothly and the yield increases. To do this, just leave the bag of seeds on a warm radiator overnight. Don't forget to discard the ugly, empty seeds!

After this, soak the seeds in warm water - they should swell. Place it between layers of fabric, after slightly wetting it. Just don’t use gauze - the nimble roots of the seeds will simply get tangled in it!

After 4-5 days at room temperature, the seeds will reach a length of several centimeters. At this stage, they need to be planted in open ground so that the roots do not intertwine with each other!

Sow seeds correctly

Planting seeds for seedlings is usually carried out in two periods (depending on climatic conditions). If you live in the west-east region - May 1-10, and in the south - in the second or third ten days of April. After 5-30 days, the seedlings can begin to be planted in the prepared soil.

Note: it is advisable to start sowing in cloudy weather!

Landing is very simple:

Proper planting of seeds is already half the battle, which will provide you with high yields! These rules should not be neglected.

Video - Planting zucchini seedlings in the ground

How to water

Regular watering is required - avoid getting liquid on the foliage, pour it under the root. Before flowering, water once a week (five liters per square meter). When the fruiting period begins, increase watering - twice a week with ten liters of warm water. You can’t do without watering completely, otherwise you can’t count on getting a bountiful harvest. And during drought, the leaves and inflorescences will quickly dry out and fall off.

Note: avoid watering with cold water, otherwise there is a risk that the young ovaries will begin to rot!

Growing zucchini does not require hilling and loosening - this harms the root system, which is located quite high!

Don't forget about fertilizers and pollination

Feeding should be regular.

In addition to these feedings, provide foliar nutrition during the fruiting period: sprinkle the above-ground part with a ready-made solution of 10 liters of water with 10 g of the drug Bud. Frequency: once every ten days.

Female flowers require pollination. In the morning, spray the flowers with a honey solution (a glass of plain water + a spoonful of honey) to attract bumblebees and bees. If insects are not pollinating your flowering squash due to bad weather, do it yourself. Pick off the male flowers and use them to pollinate the female flowers. The strength of one such flower is enough to pollinate three female ones.

Video - Pollination of zucchini

Getting rid of pests

This crop needs to be protected from pests and all kinds of diseases. Of course, when growing tasty fruits in open ground, there is a risk of encountering many common diseases and pests. Perhaps powdery mildew, melon aphids and sprout flies can be called the most common pests. But you can also encounter white or root aphids, whiteflies, and mites.

Diseases can be prevented by following the rules of crop rotation. Remove affected fruits and plant debris in a timely manner. Treat diseased plants with sodium phosphate, colloidal sulfur, mullein solution or hay infusion. And effective insecticides can help you: Confidor, Iskra.

Collecting fruits

Early, mid or late ripening vegetables differ in their ripening time. Fruits can begin to be harvested on the twentieth day after flowering. They will be small in size, but such zucchini are often canned, and zucchini caviar is already prepared from large ones.

Don't miss the moment when the zucchini is completely ripe; if it gets too ripe, it will lose its flavor. Determine the degree of ripeness yourself: tap the fruit, if the skin is hard enough, dense to the touch, and the sound is dull, then the vegetable is ripe.

You can store zucchini for up to five months in the cellar; during this period they do not lose their consumer characteristics!

Zucchini is a dietary product that is rich in vitamins. This vegetable is becoming increasingly popular: it is not difficult to care for, but the results can please you. Next, we will tell you about caring for squash crops in the garden beds.

Where is it better for a vegetable to grow - selecting a place for planting

To grow squash crops, choose a sunny place protected from the winds, preferably on the south or southwest side of the slope. The future harvest depends on the degree of illumination: the more sun, the more fruit the crops bear. Good predecessors for squash crops are: cabbage, carrots, celery, tomato, potatoes, and onions. It is not recommended to plant zucchini after pumpkin crops: pumpkins, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, as well as melons: melons, watermelons. Three years must pass after the pumpkin harvest to allow the soil to rest, otherwise diseases will accumulate in the soil.

We prepare the beds in the fall: we dig up the soil to a bayonet depth, remove all the roots outside the site. We make the beds high, half a meter wide. Add compost, loamy soil, complex fertilizer, sand, and ash to the peat soil. Add coarse sand, humus, peat and ash to the clay soil. We add humus, ash, peat, and turf soil into the sandy soil. This will enrich the earth with useful components. If you were unable to prepare the beds in the fall, you can add organic matter in the spring when planting. Add a liter of humus, a small spoon of mineral complex and a large spoon of ash to each hole. Then mix all the ingredients with the soil.e

How to grow zucchini if ​​you have seeds?

There are two ways to grow squash crops: seeds and seedlings. If you grow zucchini from seeds in open ground, the harvested fruits will be stored for a long time. Vegetables grown from seedlings must be processed immediately after harvesting. For each planting method, it is necessary to prepare planting material. Unprepared seeds planted in the ground will grow very slowly or not at all. Before planting, old seeds need to be ventilated and checked for germination. There are several ways to treat seeds to speed up the growth process of squash crops:

• germinate in a warm place, wrapped in a damp piece of cloth, until sprouts 5-6 cm in size appear;
• soak for 24 hours in a solution that stimulates growth: Epin, Zircon, complete complex fertilizer, wood ash (per liter of water - two tablespoons of ash), potassium humate, Kalanchoe or aloe juice (1:9);
• keep in water with a temperature of +50 degrees for about 5 hours;
• We harden the soaked but not sprouted seeds by exposing them to different temperatures for 3-4 days. We place the soaked seeds in a damp cloth and put them in the refrigerator at a temperature of zero to one degree below zero for 14-16 hours, then during the day we keep them at a temperature ranging from +18 to +20 degrees for 6-8 hours.

We begin preparatory work on the site two days before planting. Suitable time is from mid-May to early June. It is not recommended to sow seeds early in open ground, as frost may strike, which is detrimental to the seedlings. To harvest as long as possible, we sow seeds at intervals of 5 days. Necessary fertilizers, both organic and mineral, should be applied to the soil depending on its composition. To prevent the soil from drying out and to maintain warmth, we cover the beds with polyethylene film.

We dig three holes per square meter and place the plants according to a 50x70 cm pattern. If you plant sprouted seeds, moisten the holes, otherwise the sprouts may die.

Before planting the seeds, put a handful of rotted humus and wood ash in each hole and water it with a warm manganese solution. If the soil is heavy, place the seeds at a depth of 4-5 cm, if light - at a depth of 6-7 cm. To prevent a crust from forming on the surface of the soil, mulch the ground around the hole with humus or peat. Throw 3-4 seeds into the hole. When the seeds germinate, we leave one of the strongest and most developed sprouts. We cut off weak shoots at the base so as not to harm the root system of the remaining seedling. Shoots appear approximately 5-7 days after planting.

Seedlings - planted correctly in open ground

To get the first zucchini earlier and increase their yield, you need to plant seedlings in the beds that you can grow yourself. We prepare the seed material as in the previous paragraph. Take the seeds and soak them in water until sprouts appear.

To grow seedlings, it is better to use neutral mixtures as soil. There are two options:

1. 1. Buy ready-made universal soil for growing vegetables or specialized soil for pumpkin crops.
2. 2. Prepare the soil yourself.

You can prepare the following compositions yourself:

• Mix peat with sand in a 1:1 ratio.
• We prepare a mixture of 20% rotted humus, 20% turf soil, 40% peat, 10% bird droppings and 10% semi-rotted sawdust.
• We make a mixture of turf soil and humus or compost in a 1:1 ratio. Then add 20 g of superphosphate, one glass of ash, 10 g of potassium fertilizer and a small amount of sand to 10 liters of the mixture.
• Mix 30-40% humus, 10% turf soil, 50-60% peat and 10% sawdust. You can add small amounts of river sand. To 10 liters of the resulting mixture add 8-15 g of superphosphate, 3-6 g of ammonium nitrate, 5-10 g of potassium fertilizer.

We plant seedlings a month before planting them in the beds. It can be grown on a glassed-in loggia or balcony, window sill, greenhouse or hothouse, having created the appropriate conditions. Depending on the age of the seedlings, we select appropriate containers: plastic or peat cups made of paper, paper juice bags. Zucchini is difficult to transplant, so it is better to immediately plant it in separate cups.

To grow seedlings 30 days old, we take containers of 15 cm, for 20 days - 12 cm, for two weeks - 8 cm. We plant the seeds to a depth of 2-4 cm. To ensure better contact with the soil, water the soil with warm water and a half-percent solution of potassium permanganate. Until the sprouts appear, keep the cups at a temperature of +25–28 degrees. Once the growths appear, place the cups in a bright place, where the temperature during the day is +16–17 degrees, at night – +13–14. We maintain this temperature regime for 3-4 days, the grown sprouts will get stronger and grow. Subsequently, during cultivation, we maintain the temperature at night from +16 to +18 degrees, in sunny weather - from +25 to +28 and from +20 to +22 when it is cloudy.

We water the seedlings every day, not allowing the top layer of soil to dry out. The seeds also need feeding. You can prepare fertilizers yourself or buy ready-made complex fertilizers for seedlings, for example, Agricola, Mortar. There are special fertilizers for growing pumpkin crops: Florgumate, Hera, Agricola No. 5 . When planting seedlings, remove the root from the container and, without shaking off the soil, transplant the plant to the place where it is grown, bury the sprout to the cotyledon leaf.

Zucchini in the ground - how to care for plants?

The more sunny days, the better the zucchini blooms and the faster the fruits ripen.

In order for growing zucchini in open ground to be productive, it is necessary to perform the work described below. To increase productivity, form a bush. To do this, we cut off 2-3 leaves in the center to give access to the ovaries to sunlight and the opportunity for insects to fly up to the flowers. Until 4-5 leaves appear, we hill up the zucchini sprouts to stimulate the growth of lateral roots. Squash crops grow best at above-zero temperatures of 18-24 degrees. Frosts are destructive for them. The minimum low temperature that zucchini can tolerate is not lower than +5 degrees.

Zucchini does not require frequent watering. We water the sprouts once a week until flowers appear at the rate of 5 liters per square meter of area. When the fruits appear, we water the plants more often - 2 times a week, using 8-10 liters of water per square meter. You should water with warm water; cold water will cause the ovaries to rot. If you water too often, the roots may be exposed and the tips of the fruits will rot. If there is not enough water, the fruits will have a bitter taste. To ensure a good harvest, we maintain soil moisture within 70-80% (no more than 85%). We stop watering 10 days before harvest.

Pollination occurs by insects. To attract them, you can spray the plants with honey solution in the morning in a ratio of 1 tsp. honey per glass of water or sugar syrup. During artificial pollination, a male flower, whose petals are torn off, is applied to the center of 3-4 female flowers.

Caring for zucchini includes mandatory fertilizing of the soil and plants. During growth, vegetables accept nitrogen better, potassium a little worse, and cannot tolerate chlorine. We do root and general feeding:

1. 1. We do the first before flowering: under the root, pour a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, 0.5 kg of cow manure, 2 tbsp. l. Ross fertilizers. Pour 1 liter of mixture under each bush.
2. 2. We feed the second time when the flowers appear. In a ten-liter bucket, dilute 2 tbsp. l. wood ash and Effecton. Consumption per plant – one liter.
3. 3. When the fruits begin to ripen, we make the third bait. In a 10 liter bucket we dilute two large spoons of ash and Effecton-O. Pour 2 liters per plant.

We carry out general feedings 2 times with an interval of two weeks between feedings. You can water with two types of solutions. In a 10 liter bucket we dilute or 1 tbsp. l. liquid Rossa, or 10 g of the drug Bud. Pour 2 liters of solution per square meter. To increase productivity, every week make a mineral supplement of Mitlider No. 2 mixture and other fertilizers useful for squash crops.

We fight pests - forewarned is forearmed

Even if you care for zucchini properly, they are susceptible to diseases. So that you can successfully fight them, we will tell you everything in detail:

• A gray coating on the leaves of the bush appears when the plant is infected with powdery mildew. With this disease, the leaves dry out and the fruits do not grow. It develops with strong moisture. If a disease is detected, treat with a fungicide solution.
• Rust spots on the leaves are a sign of black mold damage. With this disease, the leaves and ovary dry out completely. It is impossible to cure the plant; you should urgently get rid of the diseased specimen.
• If oily spots appear on the leaves, this indicates the development of a defect called bacteriosis. Leaves affected by this disease turn black and infect the fruits. The disease appears at high humidity in warm air. The disease can be cured using Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.
• When the disease is root rot, the fruits suddenly turn yellow and the lower leaves wither. The disease affects plants that are planted in unheated soil, or the zucchini is watered with cold water. The disease can be overcome with a drug containing copper.

Vegetables are ripe - harvesting

There are early, middle and late zucchini, so they are harvested at different times. Early fruits are harvested after flowering ends, 20 days later. The size of ripened fruits reaches a length of 18-25 cm and a diameter of 6-10 cm. On average, 15-18 fruits can be collected from one bush.

Zucchini should be harvested on time, avoiding overripening. If you cut fruits often, new ones will warm up faster. The most delicious fruits do not exceed 25 cm in length. We cut off the fruits along with part of the stalk using a sharp knife. To preserve zucchini until the New Year holidays, let them ripen completely and pick them together with the stems before frost sets in.

There is a legend very similar to the truth. Once upon a time, in ancient times, the coast of the Indian Ocean was inhabited by fishermen, and the only source of their food was the fish they caught. They spent many days at sea, battling bad weather and storms. The women prayed tirelessly for the safe return of their husbands. One day, the women's patience ran out and they turned to the gods with a request to give them a fruit as a gift, the flesh of which would be as tender and delicious as fish meat. The gods heard them and gave people zucchini. Indeed, zucchini is not only a unique dietary product, but also has a very delicate taste. Today you can find this vegetable in almost any garden. But is it so easy to grow this food of the gods?

How to plant zucchini

Despite the fact that you can find zucchini in almost any garden, not every summer resident can grow them successfully. Planting this vegetable requires taking into account certain features of choosing a site, preparing soil and seeds, and choosing different planting methods.

Choosing a site for planting

The location for growing zucchini is of particular importance. Considering that this vegetable is heat- and light-loving, the area for planting it should be protected from winds from the north and be sufficiently illuminated.

You cannot grow zucchini every year in the same place, or after cucumbers, pumpkins and squash (at least 3 years). The best predecessors in this case they are cabbage, beets, carrots, peas, tomatoes, potatoes, green and spicy crops.

Zucchini is demanding on soil fertility. Therefore, in the fall, the area must be deeply dug up (25–35 cm) without breaking the clods, as well as filled with organic matter. If the soil is acidic, it is limed. In spring, the soil is loosened with a rake, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied, taking into account its composition.

Zucchini can be grown both in open and closed ground. But it is necessary to take into account that this vegetable requires quite a lot of space - the distance between the rows and in the row is 70 cm (although for some varieties 40–50 cm is allowed).

In open ground, it is recommended to use a so-called warm bed. It is made high, and raspberry leaves, Jerusalem artichoke, tops of carrots, beets, last year's grass, compost or humus are placed down under the digging. At the same time, it is recommended to cover the bed with planted plants until mid-June (depending on climatic conditions) with film or non-woven covers. During the day, in good weather, the bed must be ventilated.

Preparing plant seeds for sowing

You can plant zucchini with dry seeds or seedlings.. Deciding on the choice of landing method is not difficult. If your goal is to get a harvest as quickly as possible, then the seedling method will be optimal. But fruits grown from seedlings have one drawback - they cannot be stored for a long time. Therefore, if you need to store these vegetables, it is preferable to choose planting seeds in the ground. In both cases, pre-sowing seed preparation is important.

Freezing, heating and seed dressing are recommended as preparatory procedures.. These measures make it possible to increase the resistance of plants to cold and disease. However, at present, on packages of seeds you can find a warning from the manufacturer that they have already undergone similar preparation, therefore, there is no need to repeat it.

Be sure to soak the seeds before planting in the ground. which is carried out in several stages:

1. Warm up the bag of seeds on the radiator, this will increase their germination. Discard empty and visually ugly seeds.
2. Soak the seeds in warm water. When they swell, place them between layers of fabric (using gauze may cause the delicate roots to break off). The optimal temperature for seed germination is 25 C.
3. When the shoots reach several centimeters in length (usually after 4–5 days), plant them in the soil.

The timing of planting germinated seeds directly into the ground may vary depending on climatic conditions. On average, this is the last days of May or the beginning of June. The optimal soil temperature is 10–12 C.

Before planting, the soil must be watered. 0.5 kg of humus and 2-3 seeds are placed in an earthen hole (depth 10–12 cm), then sprinkled with 3–4 cm of soil and mulched with peat (2–3 cm) on top. Then the excess plants are thinned out.

Seedlings of this vegetable are prepared in late April - early May.. Hatched seeds are traditionally placed in individual paper cups or peat pots filled with substrate. Alternative methods of obtaining seedlings in so-called snails or roll-your-own papers are also of interest.

Video: Planting zucchini seeds in a snail

After the sprouts appear, the seedlings are first fertilized (0.5 tablespoons of superphosphate and urea per 1 liter of water). In this case, each plant should receive no more than 1.5 tbsp. spoons of this solution. The second one is performed after 10–12 days. The composition of the solution is slightly different - 0.5 tbsp per 1 liter of water. spoons of ash and nitrophoska (1.5 tablespoons for each bush). For watering, only warm water is used - 100 ml for each plant every 4–5 days.

The seedlings are transplanted into the ground after 25–30 days, when at least three leaves have formed. It is deepened into the soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Before the onset of stable heat, it is recommended to cover the planted seedlings with film or non-woven materials.

Unconventional methods of planting and growing

Summer residents, who were faced with the problem of lack of free space on their plot, invented quite original ways of growing zucchini. Their unusualness lies in the fact that zucchini is planted not in the ground in the garden, but in various devices: bags, barrels, compost heaps. There is also a vertical planting method.

Growing zucchini in bags is not difficult. To do this, use plastic (large garbage bags) or polypropylene bags (these are used to sell sugar and cereals) with a volume of 100–120 liters. Organic residues, compost, sawdust are placed at the bottom and then covered with earth. Several small holes are made in the bottom of the bag to avoid water stagnation. Zucchini is planted with seeds or seedlings and watered. In case of cold weather, cover with a cut plastic bottle. At the same time, the plant does not require special care and a significant amount of fertilizer.

Zucchini can be grown in 150-200 liter barrels in the same way.. A pipe (with a diameter of no more than 0.3 m) with small holes is installed vertically in the center of the barrel. Drainage in the form of cones or brushwood is placed at the bottom of the barrel. Then successively lay out layers of humus, hay, soil, a mixture of sawdust and peat and, finally, the soil on which the zucchini will grow. Plants are planted in holes on both sides of the irrigation pipe, through which the plants are subsequently watered.

Zucchini can be grown even on the site of a compost heap, containing the remains of last year's hay, vegetable tops, and grain husks. The decomposition of these products can be accelerated using special microbiological solutions.

Video: Growing on a compost heap

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bVTIQ-tDgds

The vertical method of planting zucchini is suitable for climbing varieties of zucchini(for example, Profit F1, Ambassador F1). It consists in the fact that the lashes of the plant are sent along a trellis attached to the ground or wall.

The planting methods described above have a number of advantages. First of all, plants are much easier to care for. And the risk of plant damage by diseases and pests is also reduced. In addition to saving space on the site, these “beds” are mobile - they can be moved from place to place. At the same time, the greenhouse effect that occurs inside bags, barrels and compost heaps during the process of decay of organic residues contributes to the harvest at an earlier date. Another advantage of these planting methods is that zucchini fruits always look attractive because they do not come into contact with the surface of the earth.

Growing zucchini on the balcony

Growing zucchini at home is quite difficult, but possible. To do this, it is necessary that the balcony or loggia have a southern exposure and be protected from frost, since zucchini is light-loving and afraid of frost. The best temperature for growing is above 16 C.

For each plant, a separate pot is allocated, with a volume of 10–15 liters of soil. The container for planting should be chosen high - 35–40 cm, because when the tap root reaches an obstacle, the growth of the above-ground part of the plant slows down. Humus can be used as soil, but be sure to ensure drainage to avoid stagnation of water (for example, expanded clay or gravel). The pot must be positioned so that no objects or structures create a shadow. It is also worth taking care of the support to which the zucchini will be tied in the future.

Not all varieties of zucchini are suitable for growing on the balcony. It is better to give preference to early ripening bush hybrids (Cavili). You can sow seeds directly into a container, but it is better to first soak them in water for 3-4 days and plant the already hatched seed.

If the selected variety is not self-pollinating, you need to provide insects with access to the balcony, and sprinkle the sprouts with a honey solution. If this is not possible, then you can pollinate the plant manually - use a brush to transfer pollen from male flowers to female ones.

The plant must be watered regularly, at the root. During fruiting, watering is increased. Regular loosening of the soil will ensure sufficient oxygen supply. You can feed the zucchini with complex water-soluble fertilizers.

You can harvest the fruits when they reach a length of 20–25 cm. It is important not to overexpose the fruits on the plant. This leads to a decrease in its productivity and early aging.

Which varieties to choose for planting

There are two varieties of this vegetable: white squash and zucchini. having more varied fruit colors (yellow, green, variegated, striped). It is believed that zucchini is more resistant to diseases and enters the fruiting stage much earlier. They have a special productivity, which is due to the predominance of female flowers.

According to the ripening period, zucchini varieties are divided into:

• Early ripening (super early). The fruits ripen 30–50 days after planting. Such varieties are suitable for growing in the Urals and Siberia.
• Mid-season. Fruits are formed at 50–60 days.
• Late ripening. The fruits of these varieties are harvested at the end of August or autumn (more than 60 days after planting).

When giving preference to one or another variety of this vegetable, you need to take into account that the difference in ripening time between varieties is insignificant, but it is strongly manifested in the yield of this vegetable. The most popular high-yielding varieties and hybrids are briefly described below.

Table: The most popular high-yielding varieties

Variety	Ripening time, days	Productivity	Fruit characteristics
40–45	17 kg per bush	Pale green, cylindrical in shape, average weight 0.5 kg
41–50	12 kg per bush	Smooth green, cylindrical in shape. Weight 0.9 kg
40–48	12 kg/sq. m	White, cylindrical, weight 0.6–0.9 kg
35–40	8 kg/sq. m	White, smooth. Weight 0.6-0.9 kg. The pulp is creamy
60	9 kg/sq. m	Short cylindrical with ribbing. Weight 0.7–1.3 kg
40–45	7–9 kg/sq. m	Cylindrical, white-green. Weight 0.3–0.4 kg
43–50	9 kg/sq. m	Light green, slightly club-shaped. Weight 0.6–1 kg
Black handsome	40–45	14–20 kg/sq. m	Dark green, almost black smooth. Weight 0.5–1 kg
38–46	9–12 kg/sq.m. m	Light green with dark green stripes. Weight 0.5–1.2 kg

Photo gallery: The most productive varieties of zucchini

Zucchini Iskander F1

Zucchini White Bush F1
Beloplodny zucchini
Zucchini Gribovsky 37
Zebra zucchini
Zucchini Cavili F1
Zucchini Black handsome
Zucchini Nemchinovsky F1

When choosing a variety of zucchini, you should also not forget about the influence of such factors as:

• resistance to low temperatures;
• disease resistance;
• ability to self-pollinate;
• features of transportation and storage;
• purpose of fruits;
• taste qualities of fruits.

Rules for growing and care

Zucchini is not too demanding in growing and caring for. You just need to follow some rules.

1. Watering is one of the determining factors for the full development of a plant and its fruits.. The watering regime depends on the stage of development of the zucchini. Before flowering, the sprouts are watered once every 5–7 days at the rate of 5 liters of water for each bush. At the fruiting stage, the intensity of watering increases to twice a week using the same volumes of water. It is important to remember that you cannot water zucchini with cold water. The optimal water temperature for irrigation is 22–25 C.
2. Fertilizing zucchini is carried out 2-3 times during the summer: first - in the phase of 4–5 leaves with a solution of slurry or bird droppings; the second - at the stage of flowering and fruit formation with mineral fertilizers. It is important to remember that zucchini does not tolerate chlorine. Carefully read the composition of the fertilizers you use.
3. Bush care. In climbing types of zucchini, the main trunk is pinched when the buds appear, and the side trunks - when they reach a length of 40 cm. In order to improve ventilation and illumination, it is recommended to remove the lower leaves of the plant.
4. Soil care involves loosening it and removing weeds. The first loosening is carried out immediately after planting seeds or seedlings. Subsequent loosening is carried out after rain or watering to prevent the formation of a soil crust. They help retain moisture and provide soil ventilation.
5. Harvesting. The timing of fruit ripening depends on the variety of zucchini you choose. Harvesting must be done regularly every 2-3 days. It is important to remember that if you skip harvesting, the fruits overgrow and become coarse, and the growth of young ovaries is also delayed. This has a negative impact on yield levels.

What diseases do vegetables have?

Like other representatives of pumpkin crops, zucchini can be affected by pests and various diseases. This can negatively affect the yield, the appearance of the fruit, or lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, it is very important to recognize the disease in time and take measures to eliminate it.

Let's look at what disease symptoms you may encounter when growing zucchini:

Table: Signs and methods of combating major diseases

Signs of defeat	Name	Causes	Fighting methods
Round spots of powdery coating appear on the leaves, then the leaves turn brown and dry out.	Powdery mildew	Sudden weather changes, high humidity	Spraying plants with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur, the first time - at the first appearance of plaque spots, the second time - after 15–20 days
The appearance of round or oval yellow-brown spots on the leaves, spots appear on the fruits that turn into darkening sores, the fruits become bitter	Anthracnose (scarden)	High humidity and temperature	Spraying plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.2–0.3% suspension of 80% zineb, 0.4% copper oxychloride.
The leaves and lashes become covered with a white coating of mycelium, the affected areas become soft and slippery, the plant withers, the leaves dry out	White rot	Cold wet weather, dense planting	Removing affected plants, sprinkling lime in places where they grow
The lower part of the stem and roots turn brown, the lower leaves turn yellow and wither	Root rot	Low soil temperature, watering the plants with cold water, applying large doses of fertilizers	Watering with warm water, timely hilling
On the leaves there are angular oily spots that later darken, ulcers and watery spots on the fruits	Bacteriosis	Wet warm weather	Spraying plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture
The leaves become wrinkled, with swellings and variegated colors, yellowish depressions appear on the fruits	Mosaic	Viral disease	The affected plant is removed

These vegetables can also be attacked by dangerous pests: sprout flies, spider mites, melon aphids, wireworms, and mole crickets. Methods to combat these insects are quite varied:

• spraying the affected plant with water and special solutions;
• creation of repellent structures with specific odors;
• creating special baits that allow insects to accumulate in one place and then destroy them.

Photo gallery: Main pests of zucchini

Sprout fly larvae damage seeds and seedlings of zucchini
Spider mites entangle leaves with small cobwebs
Melon aphid causes leaves to curl
Wireworms and their larvae damage seeds, seedlings, and young plants
Mole cricket damages seeds, roots and young shoots

Thus, when planting zucchini in your garden, remember the methods of preventing diseases and pests:

• follow the rules of crop rotation (do not place zucchini every year in the same place where cucumbers or pumpkins grew before);
• follow the watering rules (water the plant regularly at the root with warm water (22–25 C));
• Remove weeds and plant debris in a timely manner.

As you know, it is better to prevent any disease than to treat it later.

So, armed with the knowledge you have gained about the rules of growing zucchini, decide on the choice of varieties and method of planting this vegetable, demonstrate your hard work and patience, and you will be able to enjoy the rich results of your labor, tasting the tender pulp of the food of the gods.

Zucchini is an annual herbaceous plant of the Cucurbitaceae family. This dietary universal product is very popular in cooking. It is fried, stewed, stuffed and very tasty caviar is prepared from it.

The fruits of this plant are rich in vitamin A, PP and other substances beneficial to the body. What conditions do zucchini like? Growing and caring for it in open ground is a topic of interest to many gardeners, especially beginners.

There is a certain technology for growing this vegetable in the garden, which consists of several stages:

1. Preparing the site for planting.
2. Pre-sowing preparation of seeds.
3. Sowing seeds for seedlings.
4. Caring for seedlings.
5. Caring for zucchini in open ground.

Currently, many varieties of this crop have been bred for cultivation in open ground: hybrid Nemchinovsky, Kveta, Zebra, Anchor, Zolotinka, Roller, white-fruited Vir, etc. Each variety differs in shape, color and size of the fruit. This can be seen in the photo. The description of these varieties includes the possibility of growing them both by seed and by seedlings.

What conditions should be created for zucchini in the garden beds?

The area for planting zucchini should be sunny and protected from drafts. The better the lighting, the faster the plants will develop and bear fruit.

The best predecessors of zucchini are all garden crops, with the exception of pumpkin and zucchini themselves. Only after three years can this vegetable be planted in the place where the pumpkin previously grew. Such crop rotation will eliminate the risk of accumulation of diseases and pest larvae.

Zucchini does not grow well in heavy and poor soil. Depending on the type of soil, the area for planting this plant is fertilized with mineral or organic fertilizers:

• The structure of clay soil can be improved using a nutrient mixture of peat, ash and humus - three kilograms of each component. This amount of fertilizer is spent on an area of ​​1 m2. In addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are added - superphosphate - one tablespoon and wood ash - two tablespoons.
• For peat soil, the following composition is used: two kilograms of compost or rotted manure, twenty-five grams of wood ash, a bucket of clay, one teaspoon of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate. After fertilizing, the area is dug to a depth of twenty-five centimeters, thoroughly leveled and poured with Agricola-5 or Ross solution, heated to thirty-five degrees. To obtain this fertilizer, mix one tablespoon of the drug with a bucket of water. Three liters of ready-made fertilizer are used for a plot of 1 m2. To preserve moisture and heat, the bed is covered with greenhouse film.
• For light loamy soils, use the same nutrient composition as for clay soil.
• You can improve the composition of sandy soil with ten kilograms of turf, one bucket of peat, humus and sawdust - three kilograms of each component. After this, the same fertilizers are applied to the site as for clay soil.
• The optimal fertilizer for chernozems consists of the following components: sawdust - two kilograms, ash - two tablespoons, superphosphate - one tablespoon.
• If this is a new site, then before planting zucchini, the soil is cleared of debris, weeds and old roots, dug up, destroying the larvae of harmful insects. After this, the soil is fertilized with a nutrient mixture of three kilograms of compost with the addition of fifteen grams of nitrophoska and two tablespoons of wood ash. Then the planting area is carefully dug up and spilled with a warm solution of Ross or Agricola-5.

Regardless of the type, the soil for planting zucchini should not be acidic. You can deoxidize the soil using lime or dolomite flour. Zucchini is planted in an area where there is no stagnant water and no groundwater flow close to the surface.

Preparation of planting material

An equally important stage is the pre-sowing preparation of seeds. To ensure that the seedlings are strong and germinate together, they are dipped in a solution of sodium humate for twenty-four hours. After this, the seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth for a couple of days and placed in a warm place with a temperature of twenty-two to twenty-four degrees. During this time, the cloth must be regularly moistened to prevent the seeds from drying out.

To speed up the pecking process, the seed is dipped in a solution of mineral fertilizers or in a growth stimulator, for example, Epin, for a day. Many gardeners make a big mistake by using old seed material; as a result, the seedlings do not germinate.

Experienced gardeners check seeds for germination before sowing. This is a very simple procedure: the seeds are soaked in damp gauze and left in this state until they germinate.

To obtain an earlier, high-quality and abundant harvest of zucchini, gardeners use the seedling method of growing this crop. In addition, it is very convenient, because seedlings can be grown both in apartment conditions and in a greenhouse.

When should you sow zucchini seeds for seedlings?

Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in two periods, depending on the climatic conditions of the region: in the south - the second and third ten days of April, in the western-eastern regions - from the first to the tenth of May. After about twenty-five to thirty days, the seedlings are ready for planting in open ground.

Zucchini develops well and bears fruit abundantly with good care. Therefore, for growing in open ground, it is quite enough to grow several plants. Planting seeds is carried out in small containers, for example, in disposable cups, with a nutrient mixture. You can use purchased soil with a neutral acidity level and high humus content.

If desired, you can prepare the nutrient substrate for seedlings yourself. Mix half a kilogram of peat, two hundred grams of turf soil, two hundred grams of humus and one hundred grams of sawdust. If the soil has a high level of acidity, an additional handful of wood ash or chalk is added to it.

Seedling care

Seeds are planted individually in well-moistened soil to a depth of two to three centimeters. The optimal temperature for germinating seedlings is twenty to twenty-three degrees Celsius.

To prevent the sprouts from stretching and thinning after they appear, the temperature is reduced to fifteen degrees at night and to eighteen degrees during the day. This temperature regime is maintained for five days, then the crops are returned to their original habitat. Further care of the plantings consists of regular watering with a frequency of once a week.

During the growth process, seedlings are fertilized twice:

1. The first feeding is carried out at the stage of sprouting. In this case, use a liquid fertilizer consisting of one liter of water and two grams of the drug Bud. Two hundred grams of ready-made fertilizer are used per plant.
2. Ten days later, a second feeding is applied. To prepare it, use a liter of water, one teaspoon of nitrophoska and the same amount of Efecton organic fertilizer.

After a month, the seedlings are gradually accustomed to fresh air and placed in a greenhouse; in early June they can be planted on the site. Since zucchini has a very fragile root system, transplanting plants into open ground is carried out by transferring an earthen clod.

Before planting zucchini, you need to make beds fifty to sixty centimeters wide, then carefully dig and level them. Plants are planted at a distance of one meter from each other.

Place one tablespoon of the drug Efecton in each hole, then mix it with soil and spill it with a warm solution of Agricola-5. One tablespoon of the substance is dissolved in one bucket of water. One liter of solution is used for each well.

Video: Planting zucchini seedlings in a permanent place

The best time to plant seedlings is in the morning, when there is no sun yet.

For those who do not want to get an early fruit harvest, you can use the method of sowing seeds directly into the ground, without growing seedlings. Seeds are planted in the first ten days of May. Preparing beds and fertilizing holes is carried out according to the same principle as for seedlings.

Seeds are planted in pairs in each hole at a distance of three centimeters from each other. The depth of embedding is two to three centimeters. If both seeds germinate, one of them is removed or they are planted.

How and with what to water zucchini?

Watering is the most important condition on which the full growth and fruiting of this crop on the site depends. At each stage of growth, they require a certain frequency of watering and different amounts of moisture. Before the plants bloom, they are watered at least once a week at the rate of five liters of water per bush.

During the period of fruit formation and ripening, watering is increased up to twice a week. In this case, eight to ten liters of water are used per planted area of ​​1 m2.

To water the zucchini, use water at room temperature. Watering is done to the very root. You cannot water this plant with cold water, as this can cause rotting of the ovaries and already formed young fruits.

Excess moisture leads to rotting of plants and exposure of the root system. Then the roots of the plant are mulched with peat or humus to a depth of two to three centimeters. If you don’t water the zucchini, the likelihood of getting a bountiful and high-quality harvest is reduced to zero. In drought conditions, the leaves and inflorescences of zucchini dry out and fall off very quickly.

Fertilizers for zucchini

In addition to watering, zucchini requires regular feeding:

• The first feeding is carried out even before flowering. To do this, use a solution of one tablespoon of nitrophoska, five hundred grams of mullein or chicken droppings. The resulting mixture is brought to a volume of ten liters with water. One liter of fertilizer is used per bush.
• The second feeding of the vegetable is carried out during the flowering period. For these purposes, wood ash and Efecton organic fertilizer are used - thirty grams of each component, diluted with ten liters of water. The consumption is the same as in the first case.
• The third and final feeding of zucchini is carried out during the period of fruit ripening with the same fertilizer as during the flowering period. Only instead of the drug Efecton, the Efecton-O fertilizer is used. Two liters of liquid fertilizer are poured under each bush.

In addition, zucchini is given foliar nutrition during the fruiting period. The aboveground part of the plants is sprayed with a prepared solution of ten liters of water and ten grams of the drug Bud at intervals of once every ten days.

Bush formation

Pinching the top of the zucchini vines is done above the fourth or fifth leaf. This procedure is carried out for the purpose of better ventilation and illumination of plants.

Pests and diseases of zucchini in open ground

During the growing process, this crop needs protection from diseases and pests.

The most common diseases of zucchini in open ground are root rot, anthracnose, powdery mildew and white rot.

Spider mites, whiteflies, sprout flies and melon aphids are the main pests of this plant.

How to treat zucchini against diseases?

This is a pressing question for many gardeners. To prevent the occurrence of diseases, it is necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation, alternating plantings; promptly remove plant debris and affected fruits.

Treatment of diseased plants is carried out using colloidal sulfur, sodium phosphate, hay infusion or mullein solution.

Insect control is carried out using drugs - Karbofos, Confidor or Iskra.

If you follow all the above rules for growing this wonderful crop in open ground, you can get a good harvest of fruit within two months from the moment the sprouts appear.

Currently, gardeners are using various methods of cultivating this crop in practice, and quite successfully. In recent years, growing zucchini in bags, in barrels and on compost heaps has become popular. The growing technology for the first two options is identical to the technology for growing cucumbers in bags or barrels.

In regions with cool climates, gardeners use greenhouse conditions to grow this vegetable. Thanks to the unpretentiousness of this culture, success in this matter is almost always positive.