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Make a wooden stool with your own hands. Home furniture: DIY stool made of wood (drawings)

When purchasing furniture, you can notice a clear discrepancy between the prices of materials for their manufacture and the final price of the product. This is especially noticeable when purchasing fairly simple pieces of furniture, such as stools.

Stools are most often made from chipboard.

Stools are most often made from chipboard. It is a fairly cheap material, easy to work with, durable and great for indoor use. Taking one look at a chipboard stool, it’s easy to understand that making one with your own hands is quite easy. We invite you to familiarize yourself with detailed instructions for making various configurations of stools at home.

Taking one look at a chipboard stool, it’s easy to understand that making one with your own hands is quite easy.

You can make a stool with your own hands, having professional and non-professional elements and devices at hand.

Required tools include:

electric jigsaw, complete with a fine file;
screwdriver

To decorate the seat of the stool, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials.

You may also need a drill with a drill and a stapler for construction purposes.

The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts together and then secure them with self-tapping screws.

Materials for production:

chipboard sheets, new, substandard or remaining spare parts from old furniture;
self-tapping screws, no longer than the thickness of the chipboard;
confirmations 4 pieces. Dimensions 6.4 mm by 50 mm;
metal corners 4 pieces;
adhesive tape for processing sheet edges;
thrust bearings made of any acceptable materials;
sandpaper for sanding.

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models.

Non-professional tools that can be found in any home:

pencil or marker;
cardboard for making templates;
ruler or tape measure;
knife of any configuration, most importantly sharp.

The seemingly simple design of a stool has several dozen different models.

The parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws.

To decorate the seat of the stool, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials. The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

You can look at visual examples in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Create a project

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models. The seemingly simple design of a stool has several dozen different models. You can look at visual examples in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Usually several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the chosen drawing.

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape.

Usually several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the chosen drawing. When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a strict balance between its lower and upper parts. A discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore dangerous.

When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a strict balance between its lower and upper parts.

Choosing material for manufacturing

Stools can be made from different materials. Chipboard, multi-layer plywood, wooden blocks and boards are suitable. The cheapest and easiest to use material is chipboard. Sheets can be purchased in a store, at furniture factories, or you can buy scraps from small companies that make custom-made furniture. Sheets of old chipboard that were previously parts of other furniture are also suitable.

A discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore dangerous.

The final step in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes.

We apply graphic markings

Stools can be made from different materials.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, you need to mark a sheet of chipboard, thereby preparing it for further work. If you plan to make several identical stools, then it is better to make a pattern for all parts of the furniture. It is convenient to make the template from thick cardboard.

For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded. It is better to make even curves using a compass. The absence of this item can be compensated for, for example, with a plate of suitable diameter.

The cheapest and easiest to use material is chipboard.

High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips or nicks.
After trimming, you need to sand all the edges of the stool with sandpaper.

Depending on the selected shape and model, the dimensions of the elements may be as follows.

No. Stool model Seat dimensions Leg dimensions Crossbar dimensions

1 30x30 30x40 20x12
2 30x40 30x40 30x15
(3 pieces)
3 40x40 20x35 (8 pieces) 30x20
(4 pieces)

Sheets of old chipboard that were previously parts of other furniture are also suitable.

Cutting out elements for the future stool

The main thing is to decide in advance on the number of pieces of finished products and calculate the required volumes of materials.

Cutting out elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw.

Cutting out elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw. You can make a good edge cut using a fine file and high speed jigsaw. High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips or nicks.

After trimming, you need to sand all the edges of the stool with sandpaper. This processing will ensure a good fit of one part to another and simplify assembly.

The final step in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes. Make sure the holes are drilled at the same level.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, you need to mark a sheet of chipboard, thereby preparing it for further work.

Assembling the stool

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape. The tape must be chosen to match the color of the sheet or, conversely, contrasting shades.

The tape is applied to the cut of the legs and seat and glued with a hot iron. The iron must be applied with quick and short movements. The warm tape should be pressed down with a clean cloth. The glue, which is on the back of the tape, sets very quickly and does not require long heating or cooling.

The parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws. To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts together and then secure them with self-tapping screws.

The seat of the resulting chair can be made soft using foam rubber and upholstery material.

For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded.

It is better to make even curves using a compass.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself stools made from chipboard scraps.

50 photo ideas on how to make a stool with your own hands from chipboard

Despite the wide range of furniture in modern stores, some people prefer to make stools with their own hands. Thanks to this approach, you will be able to take into account the features of the interior, use really high-quality materials and decorate the product in your own way.

Features of the stool design

A modern stool is a very simple attribute of any kitchen. It’s not difficult to make such a product with your own hands, because there is many ready-made drawings and photographs that even a beginner can use to assemble. Plywood, waste wood and even finished timber are often used as the main material.

In essence, a classic stool consists of several elements that are securely fastened together. The product consists of the following parts:

cover or base of the structure, which has a round or square shape;
4 identical legs made of wood;
tsargi, that is, elements connecting all the legs of the stool;
a seat with rounded edges or covered with thick fabric.

Purchased or homemade stool?

Some people prefer store furniture. This is due to its readiness for use. You don't have to make seats, buy materials and waste time. Just visit the store or look at catalogs on the Internet. However, you need to take into account that the photos of products posted on the site sometimes do not correspond to reality. So, there may be a discrepancy in sizes and shades. If you choose inexpensive stools at sales, you may encounter low-quality shaky construction and various defects.

To avoid unnecessary expenses, you should do make your own wooden stool. In this case, you get a structure of a certain size with an interesting and convenient design. Moreover, you will spend less money and can decorate the furniture to your liking. As a rule, the price of homemade wooden stools is lower than the market value. The disadvantages of creating a product with your own hands include the cost of materials. People who have little free time and virtually no construction skills may also encounter problems. However, if you wish, you can find the simplest drawings that even a schoolchild can handle.

In any case, when choosing a stool, you need pay attention to several factors:

shape - any rectangular table will not fit well with round stools;
type of upholstery - it is better to give preference to washable options, including leatherette or short-pile fabric upholstery;
Dimensions – the seats must be of such dimensions that they fit under the table.

Requirements for a DIY stool

Essentially, a wooden stool is a versatile piece of furniture that can be pushed under a table or stored in a closet. Such an element can replace a stand, support or small table. To make a structure with your own hands, you can use waste from furniture production or leftover wood.

It is necessary to ensure that the finished wooden stool met a number of requirements.

The furniture should be quite durable. This can be achieved by using high-quality glue and observing all technological standards. A durable stool will not fall apart, even if people wobble on it.
An important requirement is functionality. So, the size and proportions of the stool must correspond to the height of all family members. For children, a stool with a crossbar to rest their feet would be ideal. The height of the seat must be correctly selected, otherwise the feet will not touch the floor.
When choosing a seat, you need to pay attention to its comfort and compactness. If you make this element hard, it will not be usable for long. Soft stools are suitable for a conversation over a cup of tea. A respectable option is to use velor or leather as upholstery. Washable dermantine is suitable for families with small children or animals.

Preparing to create a stool with your own hands

It is always necessary to start with a drawing. To make a good stool, you need to approach the process responsibly. It is important to study the main options and choose the right one. Next, you should prepare a place to work and purchase everything you need.

Materials and tools that may be required:

How to make a stool with your own hands?

Classic wooden stool

To assemble such a structure you will need the following:

bars for legs or ready-made figured legs;
kings;
one-piece square seat;
spacers

To prepare all these elements and assemble them correctly, you must strictly follow the drawing, which shows the dimensions. When the parts are ready, all that remains is to make the holes and do the dry assembly.

Simplified design

The easiest way is to make a stool, using blanks made in the workshop. A square made of laminate or parquet board is suitable as a seat. The drawers need to be glued to the finished base and additionally secured with screws. Then the holes for the legs are prepared here. A pair of legs are carefully inserted into the holes. Experts recommend fixing the finished structure using special glue.

Plywood stool

To make a stool that looks like a small bench, you can use pieces of plywood. It is necessary to prepare 2 pieces of thick plywood for the sides and one for the seat. In the upper part of the side elements there are holes for the drawers. Then you need to prepare places for fixing the spacers. All grooves are coated with wood glue. After this, you need to fix the drawers and work on the base of the stool. You need to prepare the holes here, insert plugs, apply glue and secure the top part. To make the structure really strong, you need to use 8 corners.

Make a stool out of wood or other material with your own hands is very simple. It is enough to prepare a drawing and the right tools. When the structure is ready, you need to start decorating it. Various materials can be used for these purposes. The main thing is that the stool fits into the interior.

Homemade stools

A stool is a familiar, comfortable and compact piece of furniture that is most often used in the kitchen or country house. Chairs purchased in a store and made from wood composites do not always meet all consumer requirements in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and they are also quite expensive. This is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.

Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having become skilled at it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a cabinet, or something, which will save a decent amount of money for the family budget.

Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to obtain as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.

Children's stool

This stool option will not be out of place in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or house where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.

It is best to make such a model from a solid board, which should be well processed first. If you want the stool to be very light, then dry linden is used to make it, which has a beautiful textured pattern and very low density.

If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25÷30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat, which can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.

All parts of the product must not have sharp corners or burrs. The workpieces must be rounded and well sanded so that there is no risk of injury or splintering.

This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, placing it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, by making such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers, showing them your care.

Stool - box

It's common to run out of space for small items in the kitchen or workshop, and this stool model is perfect for clearing out some of the currently unused items on your counter. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things that should always be easily accessible can be placed.

For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is spacious enough and there is room in it for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything necessary for hand embroidery or sewing.

The male half will calmly hide in a box under the seat some items of his home “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.

To make such a product you will need a well-processed timber 50×50 mm, a board 200÷250 mm wide and 20÷25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.

Folding stool

A folding stool is suitable for small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses. It can be kept constantly unfolded, and, if necessary, put away in any closet or niche between the furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60÷80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.

The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own design for attaching the legs. The legs for such a stool are made of boards or thick, 20÷25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must fit freely into the other. The frames are fastened together on one side and the other with special screws with bushings or a pin axis, which allows the structure to fold.

Step stool

Another option for a stool that can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. This model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and without it it is not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a high cabinet.

When folded, this design will be no different from a regular stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a convenient staircase is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a reliable and stable stepladder, which can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.

To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and a stringer for the steps.

Stool for the garden

If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage according to the type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. It will begin to delaminate under the influence of moisture, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.

Larch or oak is best suited for manufacturing. If you choose other wood, then it will need to be thoroughly impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-processing of lumber is carried out even before the structure is assembled.

Furniture used outdoors differs from that found indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and parts were ventilated faster.

Stool drawing

Having decided on the model of the future product, a sketch drawing is drawn up, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and marked on the drawing. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - even just drawing it by hand will be enough. The main thing is that you can visually evaluate what will happen in the end, see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.

In the presented diagram you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, legs and “crackers”. Let’s talk about them in a little more detail, so that in further descriptions it will be clear what we are talking about. All these parts are necessary to hold the structure together and give it the required strength.

Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of the stool and fasten the legs together with tenon joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
The leg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue-and-groove joints.
“Rusks” are bars, boards or metal corners installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and secured to the drawers and legs.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible parts of the structure, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as tenons cut at the edges of the drawers, and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.

Tools for work

Without carpentry tools, it is simply impossible to make any piece of furniture from wood. Professional furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But just to try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you shouldn’t immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you will still have to prepare some tools.

The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:

It’s great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help you process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of different sizes, or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the parts.

To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a sanding machine with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain to give the wood surface a smooth finish. This work can be done manually, but it will take much longer.

Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand hacksaw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work hard on them using a router. Again, cutting the material by hand will take much longer.

will be necessary not only for screwing in fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of hand screwdrivers.

Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then you must have clamps on hand, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a fairly long time, and besides these no other instrument can do this.
You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a plane - it can also be manual or electric.
Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - tape measure, construction square, wooden ruler 500÷1000 mm, simple pencil, surface planer, etc.

In addition to these tools, to carry out the work conveniently, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.

Making stools

folding stool

Traditional simple stool

The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other in some elements, which, as a rule, are intended to give the stool additional strength.

Materials for production

A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:

1 - Legs.

2 - Stool legs.

3 - Tsargi.

4 - Seat.

5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.

6 - Connecting grooves.

7 - Connecting grooves.

To make traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450x450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:

Four well-processed, smooth beams for the legs, cross-section 50x50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or have narrowed cuts on the inside.
For the seat you need to prepare two or four boards 12÷20 mm thick, 450×225 mm or 450×112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450×450 mm, 12÷20 mm thick.
To give the stool strength, in different types of structures 4 legs and 4 drawers can be used, made of timber with a section of 30×30 and a length of 441 mm, or only drawers - 4 boards, with a cross-section of 30×60 and a length of 441 mm.
Additionally, connecting elements can be used in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the drawers, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
30×30 mm timber for making “crackers” if they are intended to be installed.
Wooden dowels (chops) for securing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8÷10 mm in diameter.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Assembling the stool

Illustration
	The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are coated with glue, connected to each other and tightened with clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it is setting, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool.
	Next, the bars for the legs are prepared. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the wishes of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm.
	The next step is to mark the legs and determine the location of the connecting grooves for installing the tenons of the legs and drawers in them (or just the drawer, if the legs are not included in the design). The holes are selected using a router or chisel.
	Next, the edges of the drawers and legs are processed. Tenons are cut out on them with a width, height and depth that is 1÷1.5 mm smaller than the holes in the grooves in the legs intended for them. The tenons should fit fairly freely, but still fit tightly into the grooves.
	After this, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of legs and drawers - their tenon parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is tightened with clamps. Then, after they have dried, the legs, tied in pairs, are also connected by drawers and legs into a single structure for the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until they are completely glued. After the glue has dried, all connections are additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
	If it is intended to strengthen the stool with “crumbs”, then they are screwed to the sides and the leg of the stool. This element, installed flush with the top edge of the drawers, will create additional support for the seat.
	The next step is to mark and secure the stool seat. To do this, glue is applied to the back of the panel according to the markings, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Next, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are driven in. Exposed glue is immediately wiped off. The top of the dowel is cut off using a router, and this area is sanded smooth. Additionally, the seat must be tightened with the frame using clamps until the glue dries completely.

The adhesive can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the specified period has completely expired.

Folding stool

The folding version of the stool is convenient because, thanks to its compactness, it can not only be stored in a small living space, but can also easily fit into the trunk of a car for transportation to the country.

children's stool

Materials for production

To make such a stool model, you will need slightly different materials than those used for the traditional product. Thus, some craftsmen prefer to purchase ready-made furniture panels made from natural wood. They are excellent for cutting design parts, since, having cut them out of this material, all that remains is to process their edges.

For the presented version of the stool, the master required a panel measuring 1120×400×24 mm, and in addition to it, additionally, the following materials:

A stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250x8 mm in size, for through installation, or a stud with blunt ends for installation in blind grooves.
Furniture butterfly hinges size (when opened) 350x400 mm - 4 pieces.
Dowels or choppers 50×8 mm.
Wood glue.
Stain and clear varnish or tinted varnish.
Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.

The dimensions of all structural parts are clearly visible in the presented drawing.

The folding stool consists of the following parts:

The seat is round, with a diameter of 350 mm.
The frame is 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars measuring 500 × 48 × 24 mm, and a cross member 122 mm long.
Frame 122 mm wide from two bars 500x48x24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.

Making a stool

Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	It must be said that the seat can have a round or square shape with rounded corners, at the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm was chosen. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, approximately 120 mm long and 20÷25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to grasp it with your hand. It can be cut using a router or drilling two holes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm at a distance of 120 mm from each other, and then connecting them by sawing out the wood between them using a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to be neat and smooth, its edges must be processed immediately.
	Processing the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order by first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness.
	The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the pin will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a stud with threads at the ends is selected, onto which a special cap nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the diagram, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame.
	The grooves are cut using a router, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver.
	The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool must be carefully sawed off at the top at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly accurately, so this work cannot be done “by eye”. On the lower part of the legs, it is recommended to slightly round the corners and edges.
	The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, the jumper is first installed with glue in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers by at least 20÷25 mm. After this, dowels are carefully driven into the holes using glue. Each side of the jumpers will require two fasteners.
	On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the places where the butterfly loops will be attached are marked. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. From this place, a landing “nest” is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, when secured, the loop should be flush with the main wooden surface.
	Next, the loops are secured on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed on with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be in the same plane as the surface of the hinges. The next step is to attach the second side of the hinges to the sockets prepared for them on the back surface of the seat.
	To make the structure look neat, it is recommended to cover the pin with a tube carved from wood. You can replace the wooden version of the element masking the pin with a plastic tube, since turning this part out of wood is not so easy. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the internal diameter 9 mm, the thickness of the tube walls can be from 2 to 10 mm.
	Next, the pin is inserted into the narrower frame through a prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will move when folding and unfolding the stool.
	It must be said that a folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable stool leg. The second, outer frame has a jumper at its very bottom, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool.
	For comparison, you can see what one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like best for production. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler to implement.

Stool with wicker seat

A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be comfortable in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.

Materials for production

The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to the same scheme, however, if a high stool is made for an adult, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is advisable to strengthen it with durable drawers and legs. We must not forget that in a traditional stool the seat is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.

So, for the frame of a rectangular stool measuring 500×400 mm, you will need:

Wooden blocks 50x50 mm for legs - their height can be selected individually.
Bars for drawers and legs, section 50×25 mm.
Metal or wooden corner elements - “crackers”.
Self-tapping screws.
Leather or synthetic belts, or durable rope in one or two colors.

Let us immediately note that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350x300 mm.

Find out by reading the options from “classic” to “transformer” in a special article on our portal.

Making a stool

The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The structural elements of the stool are cut from the bars prepared for work. The legs can range from 300mm to 500mm in height and the model shown is 400mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly flat. Therefore, they should be marked using a construction square, and preferably sawed using a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut.
	The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and drawers. In this case, 4 beams with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams with a length of 300 mm are cut. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs.
	To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can guide the drill bit in the desired direction. This device is fixed on a block, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be thoroughly cleaned - this process is best carried out before assembling the structure, as it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood.
	This photo shows what such holes look like inside the beam.
	Additional fastening of the drawers and legs with the legs can be done using tongue-and-groove fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts need to be selected according to the width of the wooden blocks.
	If the first fastening option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo.
	At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When leaning on it, it should not swing.
	If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made.
	To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, 17 leather belts, 35 mm wide, were required. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The straps are screwed with two self-tapping screws measuring 10 mm at a distance of 9 mm from each other, onto the wide side of the beam extending inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “traversing” the entire path of the belt with its flexible tape. First you need to secure the belts, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having secured the belts on the inside, they go around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite king beam, go around it and also fasten it on the inside using the same screws.
	After the longitudinal belts are secured, the belts that will intertwine the already tensioned elements should be secured in the same way. They are screwed onto one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed transversely through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After this, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite drawer, stretched and screwed. Having completed this operation, you can proceed to “testing” the product.
	Another option for designing a flexible stool seat is to stretch a strong rope or cord over the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to this, you need to prepare furniture nails with wide heads and a hammer, as well as clamping pliers and an awl.
	You can purchase rope of different shades for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design.
	The end of a rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer using two furniture nails.
	Next, the rope is carefully wrapped around two long opposite sides of the frame. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can begin from any side of the structure.
	By braiding the opposite sides with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100÷120 mm of the length of the seat with braiding, the rope is temporarily fixed with pliers so that it does not loosen. Work continues in this way until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope.
	Having finished covering the seat along two sides with one color, you can move on to weaving it across with twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, take a white rope and fasten it also on the back side of the drawer, running parallel to the already wound rope.
	Using a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple and will be accessible even to a beginner.
	In this case, the white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are turned diagonally from the center of the seat.
	Having intertwined 6-8 rows and pulled them tight, the white rope is grabbed on the back side of the drawer with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat will quickly stretch and sag when using the stool. This procedure must be carried out every 6–8 rows, driving nails either on one side or on the opposite side.
	The result should be a durable seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what will suit a specific interior.

It should be noted that in the second option, where the seat is covered with rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to support people with heavy weight, but such a stool is perfect for a children's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.

Find out by studying several available options in a special article on our portal.

In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool yourself, without having experience working with wood and special tools, is not as simple as it seems at first glance. However, if you have the desire and enough patience, then it’s quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to get ready for serious work and not do it “carelessly.”

Video: master class on making a simple wooden stool

Just one of those things that can be done in 15 minutes and then last for years. Moreover, the master class itself takes even longer to write and read than to do it. Therefore, my son (an 11-year-old boy) decided to make it himself, albeit under my strict guidance. But only as a consultant and photographer.

So, a simple stool. For it we need only four pieces of chipboard:
Two on legs, 200 by 250 mm;
One upper part – 250 by 300 mm;
And one spacer 90 by 200 mm.

I didn’t buy or order all this. And in workshops where large sheets are cut, a lot of unnecessary scraps remain. So, “thank you”, I collected plenty of them, and now they should turn into a comfortable stool, made with my own hands.

In addition, you will need a simple device for gluing parts with an edge (it is also possible without it, it’s just more convenient),

the edge itself,

iron,

knife,

a piece of sandpaper attached to a block,

hex bit for confirmations,

drills (seven millimeters and confirmed),

"His Majesty" screwdriver,

four confirmations,

five chops,

small hammer and/or rubber mallet,

PVA wood glue,

and four legs.

I just had all this at home, and you may have to take a trip to the furniture store. Now let's start making a stool with our own hands.
To begin, we will glue the edges on the blanks. It's very simple, so a hot iron will help you. You can use any, even borrow a particularly fashionable one from your wife, secretly. She won’t notice anyway, and you won’t ruin it in any way. So, glue the edge for our handmade stool with a hot iron (a few seconds will be enough) and rub the adhesive base with a rag. The edge is very hot, so don't get burned.

Trim off the excess and paste over the parts on the other side. Then, to calm yourself down, go over the ends with sandpaper.

Now, using two confirmations, screw one leg to the transverse bar,

and then another. The base for our homemade stool is ready.

Drill five holes in the lid. Not through, but in secret,

and hammer the dowels onto the glue. The cover for our simple stool is already ready.

Mark five holes, drill them too, pour in glue, and connect both parts into a single whole. They made a stool

The most ordinary and familiar part or accessory can become simply irreplaceable due to tradition. Somehow it turned out that a kitchen without a stool is not considered complete, and in any house where guests come at least occasionally, there should be at least five or six of them, regardless of the number of family members. The more, the better, and even better if it is made “with these gold ones.” This is exactly the question we will consider right now.

Kitchen stools, manufacturing materials

Before you start making this irreplaceable piece of furniture, you need to review the drawings and choose a design. It’s worth taking a look at how far humanity has come in the materials used to make them. Production can afford to use, for example, a variety of plastics and injection molding manufacturing technologies; this is difficult to achieve at home, and is not always necessary. Firstly, the stool is historically wooden and can be made from anything, as long as it is wood:

Plastic ones are less common in the kitchen, because they are mainly used in places where contact with atmospheric moisture is possible and where the temperature is unstable. On the balcony, for example, or on the veranda. A kitchen stool may have structural elements made of metal, but they must be linked to the overall design of the kitchen interior. In a word, we decided that the best material is wood, and don’t let the cat go.

Design features

Structurally, the stools can be non-collapsible, or they can be folding. Despite such a simple and democratic design, any self-respecting carpenter will not follow the beaten path, but will come up with something similar. The standard solution for construction is a regular frame with legs, which form a rigid structure with grooved or bolted joints, and a seat is attached to the whole thing on top. It couldn’t be simpler, and in most cases, nothing more is needed. What else do we want from a stool? A little. He just has to:

Such a stool will be an excellent kitchen inhabitant and assistant, and we will look at several types of diagrams and drawings.

Round and square

We won’t immediately take on complex structures, but will practice on a regular stool with straight legs, where even the tongue/groove connection is not necessary. You can simply use furniture screws. Several of these designs are shown in the pictures and they are so simple that there is simply nothing to add here. All that remains is to take a tape measure and measure the parameters of the kitchen table so that the stool is not only beautiful, but also comfortable. If there are no questions at all with the construction of the frame and jumpers, just measure and cut, then it’s worth thinking about the shape of the seat.

The fact is that square and round chairs did not just appear out of nowhere. It is more difficult to cut a round seat than a square one, especially if the board is not solid, but type-laid. You need to start from the size of the kitchen. If the kitchen is spacious, then the seat may well be square, because, as a rule, the corners on it are not used, but only knock down the knees and give the cats a reason to peek at what is going on on the table. A round seat is more suitable for small kitchens simply because they are more compact. And you can attach the seat to the frame either with glue pins, if the structure is not dismountable, or with corners on self-tapping screws. It all depends on the purpose of this piece of furniture.

Decoupage and soft stools

You can transform a tired stool using the decoupage technique. You can’t do this with soft ones, and replacing the seat trim is already a rather labor-intensive process.

In general, the advisability of soft chairs is not entirely clear, since for long gatherings from which the body gets tired, there is a soft corner or chair. If we talk about aesthetic value, then a case will do just fine. The chair should simply perform its utilitarian functions. And decoupage will allow it to be constantly fresh and unexpectedly new.

Decoupage can be done using a regular three-layer napkin with a pattern or ornament you like. This is done quite simply:

Select a suitable pattern and napkin according to the size of the seat.
The topmost decorative layer is removed from the napkin.
You can glue it on acrylic varnish or PVA.
If the napkin is dominated by white tones, they will be repainted to match the color of the seat. Therefore, if you want to leave white white, you need to prime the seat with white paint.

Actually, all that remains is to wait until the varnish dries, refine the ends and wait until you get tired of the new design in order to change it again.

A stool is a simple and sure-fire solution when you need to create a comfortable kitchen space with small means, and if they are made with soul, then the kitchen will also receive a new, fresh design. Happy experimenting!