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Milling shaft for wood drawings. How to make a homemade router? Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

Small wooden parts are much more convenient to process on a table with a smooth feed. Today we will find out how to make a full-fledged machine for home woodworking from a manual router. We will also determine the most suitable materials for the construction of the bed and table.

Which cutter is suitable

It is not possible for a layman to independently manufacture a drive and transmission for a wood milling machine. Therefore, we suggest using a conventional hand router. Almost any modification will do, with the possible exception of small one-handed models and engravers. The milling cutter will be quick-detachable, but if you see the point of a targeted purchase, do not pay attention to the refinements of ergonomics and additional devices.

Small milling cutters cannot be fixed normally - the size of the sole does not allow. The tool must have a sufficiently powerful frame, because the force will not be transmitted to the body directly, but through the iron base and its guides.

All sorts of attachments, such as feed rail stop bars, are of no interest to the manufacture of the machine, but the depth adjustment mechanism can be very useful for copying work and fine setting the height of the cutter. However, the machine itself has a mechanism used for pre-fitting, so even oversized parts can be processed on it.

The issue of power and speed is purely individual and depends on the materials being processed, as well as on the desired quality of processing. It is important that the machine components correspond to the power and weight of the router. The design of the machine for an average milling cutter is described below - with a power of up to 1.5 kW and with a limiting idle speed of 20 thousand rpm.

The milling cutter will be attached to the machine through a special design that resembles a forklift. Two corners 30x30 mm are welded by horizontal shelves to each other with such a distance that the flat edges of the base of the electric machine fit exactly between the vertical sides. If the base is round, no problem - four fastening points will be enough to securely fix the tool on the corners with M10 hex bolts.

The holes, respectively, should be 10.5-11 mm in diameter, their center is located exactly on the edge of the corner. There are nuances in the drilling technique: it is imperative to observe a safe distance from the edge, drill only from the underside and then countersink, carefully process the edges until the burrs are completely eliminated.

The fork is made in a U-shape with a length of "horns" of about 250-350 mm, the middle part is made with a 50 mm corner. The fork is welded on the side to a section of a profiled 60 mm square pipe 20-25 cm long. A more significant “overhang” of the router is also possible, for example, for processing panel doors, but the bracket must first be strengthened - use a 50 mm corner on the side parts of the fork and correctly space out the fastening points with the slopes.

On the inner edges of the fork, you need to make a series of semicircular slots with a radius of 5 mm. It is optimal to first make shallow cuts with a grinder, and then expand them with a round file. The holes should be located in such a way that the router can be easily rearranged at a certain interval. Thus, the distance between the centers of the slots should be two or three times less than the center distance of the holes.

It is very convenient to use hex screws: if they are screwed into a plate with two threaded holes, then no additional key is needed, and the tightening can be done with one hand. That is, from the bottom we have two strips located across the fork, which completely eliminates the displacement of the bolts and the dismounting of the router from the mount. Remember also that the inner corner of the corner steel has a radius mate, so if there is no chamfer on the sole of the router, you need to make a small cut with the angle grinder.

Steel bed frame

A profile square pipe of two sizes will be used for the manufacture of the bed and other parts: 50x50x4 mm and 60x60x5 mm. To create a rail system for height adjustment, we use the principle of folded tubes "telescope". In order to fit the inner dimension of one pipe to the outer one of the other as accurately as possible, you can choose products with different wall thicknesses.

Ideally, there should not be a noticeable gap, but even if there is a run-up of up to two millimeters, such a backlash can be easily eliminated. Holes must be drilled in the walls of the outer pipe and nuts welded on. By screwing the screws into them, you can open the sleeve and achieve accurate alignment. With a large gap, you can add a remote insert to the design, which has two shallow cores to support the edges of the screws.

The basis of the bed is a U-shaped structure with sides of 70x70 cm, welded from a square pipe of 50x50 mm. A vertical stand from the same pipe is installed perpendicularly to the center of the middle link, the lower attachment point is reinforced with two sheet steel gussets.

For the table, it is necessary to make a structure from two parallel pipes, between which a pipe segment is welded perpendicularly. Thus, the height of both the table and the router can be adjusted in the machine. The ends of the pipe should be moved back a little so that when a massive part is fixed on the table, a counterweight can be placed on these “tails”.

Vertical movement mechanism

It would be a good solution to provide the bracket and fork of the table with a mechanism, when the handle is rotated, the latter will be raised or lowered. Of course, additional fixation of these elements by tightening after adjusting them will be required, but with a drive this operation is much easier to carry out.

On one of the walls of the mounting sleeves (which slide on the guide post) you need to cut a rectangular piece to gain access to the inner tube. There are two versions of the feed mechanism:

  1. Drill holes along the pipe with a bicycle sprocket pitch and use the latter as a rack and pinion gear.
  2. Use a type-setting polyurethane roller, planted on an axis with a handle.

Rubber products in the latter case should not be used, they do not tolerate contact with grease. The axis is fixed in a U-shaped holder, on the middle shelf of which a hole is drilled and a nut is welded on. A bolt screwed into it attracts the roller and provides the desired grip.

Another option is also possible. It is not necessary to make a cut, but instead of a roller or an asterisk, a piece of round timber with a diameter of 50-60 mm is inserted. A 3 mm steel cable is stretched along the entire vertical rack on lanyards, it is also wound around the roll with 2-3 turns. When properly adjusted, such a system is able to fully support its own weight.

Table and soft feeder

The second important element of any milling machine - table feed - is carried out by a screw stud 50-60 cm long. It can have either a regular M12 or M14 thread, or be machined according to an individual profile if there is a goal to play with the gear ratio by changing the pitch.

The table will slide along the guides - the very two pipes that serve as its base. Under the sled, you can dissolve a piece of 60 mm pipe in two or adapt a channel of the appropriate size. Rubbing surfaces must first be cleaned to a metallic sheen.

Channels are installed on pipes along a common line, then welded with a short jumper from a corner. In its center is a hole and a nut corresponding to the thread on the stud. The nut is welded in advance, but the insert must be welded only when the entire mechanism is assembled and the gear alignment is not broken.

The front edge of the stud must be seated in a slippery sleeve and provided with a handle. Therefore, the front edges of the table tubes are connected by an overhead U-shaped bracket, the middle part of which is made of a 30 mm angle, and the side ones are made of a steel strip. In the center, you need to drill a hole for the stud so that it passes freely.

Of the options for the sliding unit, we can recommend a conventional bearing, matched to the diameter of the stud and fixed in a homemade mandrel. It is also possible to install a thrust bearing on the reverse side of the angle. In any case, two nuts and a wide washer must be pre-screwed onto the stud in order to be able to unfasten it inside the frame of the table base. In this case, the stud will rest against the wall of the mounting sleeve: on it you need to make a small core with a drill, as well as on the end of the screw, and insert a steel ball from the bearing.

As for the countertop, it can be any sheet material of sufficient strength. It is recommended to use thick (16-20 mm) plywood. It is better to fasten it with screws with a countersunk hat, which are screwed into the channel-sled, the main thing is that the edges of the bolts do not protrude from the inside. After assembly, a pencil is attached to the axis of the router and the table feed is scrolled so that the vector of its movement is outlined on the surface. On the perpendicular laid off from this line in both directions, it is necessary to fix the thrust bar.

Also, for convenience, it is recommended to place pieces of tape from a tape measure on a vertical stand, and make one notch on the mounting sleeves with a chisel. It remains only to check the machine in operation and begin the long-awaited creative process.

To make a router with your own hands, you will need to make drawings. The diagrams indicate the key details of the design and their parameters.

The accuracy of the work performed depends on the power of the router.

Design features

The milling machine is used for edging, chamfering and decorative carving. The milling cutter, which is used to work with soft metal, is equipped with special knives. The unit in question consists of the following parts:

  • motor;
  • spindle;
  • cutter.

Scheme of the machine for milling.

The working cutter is located on the spindle, which is supplied with rotation from the motor. Some tools of this type operate on 1-phase AC power. You can make a manual homemade router with a small DC motor.

The choice of cutter depends on the material to be processed and the purpose of the tool. For woodworking, simple structures are used at low speed. It is more difficult to design an assembly for working on metal, because this material has a higher strength and rigidity.

When the device is connected to the mains, the spindle rotates, and sharp knives cut the material (wood, metal). The spindle must be made of a durable material that meets certain standards of hardness and rigidity. The speed of rotation affects the accuracy of the work. The number of revolutions depends on the density of the raw material. Experts recommend making a home-made device with a regulator.

Aggregate classification

According to the method of application, manual routers are classified as top, lamellar and edge units. Top routers are submersible (with a movable motor) and fixed (with a motor fixed in one position). The classification of narrow-profile units depends on the material being processed and the parts:

  • to work with GKL;
  • tenoning machines;
  • to create grooves.

You can assemble a vertical milling cutter for woodworking with your own hands from an electric motor, a cutter and a cartridge. The engine is removed from any electrical appliance, and the cartridge from the perforator. The base (chipboard or PVC sheets) is attached to the motor. The engine and cartridge are connected with a special adapter. If necessary, this work is entrusted to specialists. Then select and install knives. The device is ready for use. An independent CNC device is used to create products designed on a computer (laser cutting, drilling, milling and engraving).

Universal Device

On the basis of the resulting apparatus, a universal machine can be made. For this, a bed is used. The machine is suitable for rough woodworking, but it will not be possible to perform accurate high-quality work with it due to the fact that it does not work at high speed.

To create a multifunctional machine you will need:

  • MDF board (1.5x1.5 m);
  • accessories.

A drill and a jigsaw are used to cut parts. The finished machine is not suitable for working with hard metal. In the manufacture of a CNC machine, an aluminum profile with a section of 80x40x4 mm is required, which is cut into beams (4 - 460 mm each, 2 - 1300 mm each).

The advantages of a do-it-yourself manual milling cutter include:

  • suitable for most surfaces;
  • affordable cost;
  • ease of use;
  • ease of assembly;
  • inexpensive service.

The revolutions of a standard motor from a household appliance are not enough to ensure high-quality processing. Equipping the structure with a powerful engine helps to eliminate this drawback. To do this, use a motor from a modern puncher.

For shallow sampling of wood blanks, a motor with a power of up to 500 W is used, but it will stall. Experts recommend installing a motor with a power of 1100 watts or more. Processing wood in normal mode with any type of milling cutter allows a drive of 1 - 2 kW.

Then you need to decide on turnover. The cut will be more accurate if there are more revolutions. With motors designed for a 220 V network, connection will not cause difficulties. A three-phase asynchronous motor is connected according to a special “star-delta” scheme. The wiring diagram ensures smooth start-up of the machine and operation with high power.

Conclusion on the topic

Before making a homemade device, it is recommended to find out how it works. When the axis starts to rotate, the carriage with the motor moves up or down along it. The skids act as guide stops. The screw is necessary for fixed fixation of the carriage after its height adjustment. The supporting body is attached from below to the cover of the workbench, holding the structure.

The carriage with the motor must be securely fixed and immobilized to ensure uniform sampling. The removal of the swing arm from the side and equipping it with homemade gears will make the design easy to use.

If there is no finished table, then in its manufacture take into account the fact that different materials behave differently during operation. The wooden table is not resistant to moisture, but absorbs vibrations well.

Guides for the stop can be made of plywood or chipboard. This will allow you to adjust the horizontal position. In the manufacture and use of the tool, safety measures must be observed.

Many people prefer to make various items using wood for this at home. They like creativity, search. For independent woodworking, it is very important to have the necessary tools at home. One of these devices is a homemade milling cutter.

The milling cutter is necessary for processing wooden products.

Why do you need a cutter? This is primarily a cost savings. In addition, designing and making a router with your own hands means effectively solving the issue of its size, coordinating them with the free area in the house, and for a specific purpose.

Simple wood router

The simplest wood milling machine consists of the following elements: a bed, a table, an electric motor with a fixed cutter, a longitudinal stop. The bed (frame) is a metal frame on which the electric motor and the milling table are mounted vertically. The frame design can be any (you can use a design previously made for other purposes).

The main working unit includes an electric motor and a tool for mounting the cutter. As a tool for mounting the cutter, a standard collet-type chuck is used. The chuck is connected to the motor shaft through a thin-walled steel pipe. The cutter is fixed in the chuck. The electric motor must be fast (3000 rpm) and powerful enough (at least 1.1 kW).
The milling table (tabletop) is mounted on top of the bed frame. It can be made from a textolite sheet. It is possible to use thick (multilayer) plywood, wood or chipboard. The main condition is strength. The most reliable and durable option is steel or duralumin sheet. The size is determined by the location of the machine and does not play a significant role.

A hole is drilled in the tabletop strictly opposite the axis of the electric motor. The hole diameter is selected 10-15 mm larger than the cutter diameter. The hole must correspond to the maximum diameter of the cutter. When fixing the entire working unit to the frame frame, the cutter must pass through the hole and protrude above the table surface to a height equal to the size of the profile to be milled.

A longitudinal stop is placed on the surface of the table. The stop is made of a board or a wooden bar with a thickness (height) of at least 30 mm. The width doesn't matter. The length is equal to the length of the table. In the middle of the side surface of the board (bar), a channel is formed in the form of a semicircle with a radius of 10-20 mm greater than the radius of the hole in the table. Using clamps, the stop is attached to the tabletop to the right of the cutter so that its location is perpendicular to the side edge of the table. Mounting is done on both sides. The channel on the stop should be located opposite the hole in the countertop.

The simplest cutter is ready. The workpiece is manually smoothly fed to the cutter with pressing against the table surface. The side face of the workpiece is guided along the longitudinal stop, which acts as a guide rail. Fastening the stop with clamps allows you to move it to the desired distance. The movement is parallel to the original location. If it is necessary to mill the side edge of the workpiece sliding along the stop, it is moved so that the cutter is in the channel on the stop surface.

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Simple router with two stops

The design of a simple milling cutter becomes a little more complicated if it is necessary to process the end face of a long workpiece. In this case, it is necessary to introduce another stop into the structure - a transverse one. To accommodate it, a change is made to the longitudinal stop. It is made from a board, which is installed on the table with a side edge perpendicular to the table top. Instead of a semicircular channel, a rectangular cutout is made in the board. The length of the cutout is 50-100 mm, and the height is 25-35 mm.

The transverse stop is made of a wooden bar 20-30 mm high, 30-40 mm wide. The length of this stop is equal to the width of the table. The transverse stop is passed through the cutout in the longitudinal stop and fixed with clamps along the edges to the table. Its movement is possible within the length of the cutout in the longitudinal stop. This ensures the longitudinal and transverse direction of the workpiece.

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Universalization of the router

Simple routers have many disadvantages associated with the difficulty of changing the cutter, the lack of the necessary regulation and functional limitations. With your own hands, you can make a more complex universal milling cutter. Versatility is achieved by changing the mounting system of the working unit and the design of the table and longitudinal stop.

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Making a universal milling table

The universal milling table is a worktop with a square window in the center and skids on three of its edges. The table top is made in the form of a plate with a smooth surface at least 20 mm thick. It can be made from a monolithic slab or a set of boards, but with subsequent sheet cladding. The dimensions of the plate are selected at the discretion of the owner.

The working unit is fastened not to the bed, but to the table top.

A square metal plate is fixed on the working unit with a central hole for the motor shaft, four holes in the corners for fastening to the table and four holes for fastening to the engine. Plate thickness - 6-10 mm. The dimensions of the sides correspond to the dimensions (diameter) of the motor.

In the center of the tabletop, a square window is cut with side dimensions that are 2-5 mm larger than the dimensions of the metal plate. From the bottom of the tabletop, metal strips with threaded holes are fixed at the corners of the window for attaching the plate of the working unit. The working unit is lowered from above into the table window and fixed with screws. Mounting screws must be adjustable, i.e. allow you to adjust the gap between the plate and the table slats.

On two opposite edges of the tabletop, skids in the form of an aluminum profile with a T-shaped cutout are fixed. The skids are designed to ensure the movement of the stop carriage.

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Universal longitudinal stop

The longitudinal stop is made of a well-finished board with a thickness of at least 25 mm and a width of at least 150 mm. The length of the board is equal to the width of the table. A rectangular cutout is made on the board in the center of the side edge for the cutter to enter into it when the stop is moved to the extreme on the table. The dimensions of the cut correspond to the dimensions of the cutter with an allowance. End strips with a roller, a clamp (comb) with a locking block and an end plate that acts as a transverse stop are installed on the board.

Milling machine with manual feed: a - general view, b - kinematic diagram, 1, 5 - ruler guides, 2 - gear sector, 3 - cutter, 4 - guard, 6 - control panel, 7 - additional spindle support, 8 - bracket , 9 - bracket lifting handwheel, 10 - belt tension handwheel, 11 - electric motor, 12 - spindle, 13 - spindle height adjustment handwheel, 14 - frame, 15 - spindle speed switch, 16 - switch, 17 - table.

The longitudinal stop is made in the form of a carriage, so metal strips with rollers are fixed on the ends of the board. The rollers are installed at the bottom of the plank in such a way that it allows them to be placed in the “T-shaped cutouts of the tabletop skids. The lower edge of the bar is bent, and a threaded hole is drilled on the bent part for installing the stopper. The stopper is a screw with a “lamb” with a diameter of at least 10 mm; after installation, it must fall on the bottom surface of the tabletop.

Clamp with a locking block is designed to clamp the workpiece in a vertical plane. It is installed on the board on the right side. The clamp and the block are made of a wooden block with a thickness of at least 20 mm and a width of at least 40 mm. The clamp has a length of at least 100 mm. Its lower end is sawn off at an angle of 30 degrees. At the beveled end of the bar, a “comb” is made by longitudinal cuts 10-15 mm long.

The comb can be replaced with rubber. In the center of the bar in the longitudinal direction, stepping back 30-40 mm from the comb, a cut 20-30 mm long is made to attach the stop to the board with the possibility of moving the clamp. The width of the cut must match the size of the fixing screw (8-10 mm). The locking block is made from the same bar and has a length of at least 60 mm. Two holes are drilled in the stopper bar for fastening.

The end plate is made in the form of a shelf from a metal strip 3-5 mm thick or wood. Strip width 40-60 mm. The length of the horizontal part is not less than 40 mm, the vertical part is not less than 50 mm. Two longitudinal slots are made in the vertical plane, parallel to the side edges of the plate. The length of the slot is 20-30 mm, the width is for the size of the fixing screw (7-10 mm).

The assembly of the longitudinal stop begins with fixing on the left side of the aluminum profile with a T-notch for installing and moving the end plate. Profile length - 20-40 cm. The height from the bottom edge of the stop board to the profile is selected 20-30 mm more than the height of the milled workpiece. Bolt heads are installed in the profile slot for fastening the end plate. The plate is attached to the bolts. Fastening is done with the help of "lambs". On the right side of the board, a clamp and a locking block are installed. The block is fixed motionless with two bolts or screws. The clamp is fixed with a bolt with a “lamb”. Both elements are installed parallel to each other and at an angle of 30 degrees to the vertical. A gap of up to 10 mm is created between the block and the clamp to adjust the angle of the clamp.

I am sure that most people have had to deal with wood at least once in their everyday lives. For the simplest work, each owner has a saw or a hacksaw for wood, but this tool can only cut material.

However, the owner of a private house often has to do more complex work than simply cutting wood with a hacksaw. Therefore, a zealous owner who is used to doing everything on his own will always need a device for performing milling woodwork.

Today, the market offers a large number of a wide variety of tools and you can purchase the simplest milling equipment for about 17,000-21,000 rubles. However, inexpensive models have their drawbacks, and not everyone will be satisfied with the functionality of such equipment.

Therefore, a good solution would be a home-made unit for wood milling, which any master can assemble even with minimal experience in handling metalwork tools. In addition, there are quite a lot of drawings and instructions on the Internet.

All of the below drawings with dimensions should be considered as a recommendation and guidance only. Milling machines assembled at home cannot have any standards. Regardless of what equipment it is decided to assemble with your own hands, the main thing is that it solves the tasks.

Example: router attached from below.

There are several types of milling cutter, so before proceeding with the manufacture of the machine, it is worth deciding for what purposes the machine will be used.

Since a powerful and high-speed milling cutter is required to work with complex workpieces, most craftsmen advise choosing equipment with auto-stabilization and manual spindle adjustment.

Devices equipped with a soft start and quick stop system are distinguished by great convenience in operation. It is considered a big advantage if it is possible to replace the motor brushes without disassembling the equipment case.

Any craftsman will be happy with such a milling cutter. Most instructions do not recommend using the equipment upside down. As a rule, such a restriction has no justification and can be ignored.

Selection of materials and components

Milling machine for home workshop, as well as for production, consists of the following main elements:

  • bed;
  • countertop;
  • a device that drives the cutter (drill or electric motor).

bed

An important part of the milling machine is the bed, since it is on it that all other elements of the equipment are attached. The frame must be very reliable and able to

Milling machine bed.

withstand high dynamic loads. For the manufacture of the bed is best to use metal. It is best to use a square or rectangular pipe or a massive corner. This is because:

  1. you can not use welding and use a bolted connection. In addition, a collapsible model is convenient, especially in cases where it has to be temporarily moved to another place or simply taken out of the workshop for the duration of the repair of the premises;
  2. the machine is not going to be disposable. The table supports can be made adjustable, which will make it easier to adjust the machine horizontally in any place with a slight slope of the surface, which is very important when working with such equipment.

Dimensions do not particularly matter, it all depends on how large the workpieces are supposed to work with. The main thing is that the frame is strong and stable.

tabletop

Scheme of a homemade countertop.

If metal is considered the best material for making a frame, then for a countertop, on the contrary, it is necessary to use wood or materials based on it. For the tabletop you can use:

  • planed board;
  • multilayer plywood;
  • chipboard, OSB or MDF boards.

When choosing a material, you should focus on the specifics of the further use of the machine. In accordance with this, the type of material and its thickness are selected.

The surface of the worktop must have a smooth surface, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve milling accuracy. It is also necessary to exclude the possibility of scratches on the workpiece. You can get a flat surface of the working surface in the following ways:

  • plastic lining;
  • careful adjustment of planed boards;
  • iron sheathing.

Important! When creating a milling machine at home, it is worth remembering safety precautions. It is imperative to make a protective cover around the cutting part of the router.

electrical equipment

As already mentioned, there are many designs of a milling machine. Accordingly, a ready-made factory-made milling cutter, an electric motor or a hand drill can be used to rotate the cutter. When using an electric motor in the machine, first of all, you should decide on its type:

Asynchronous

It is unpretentious in operation and gives the chance to use big mills. The disadvantages include noisy work, but how important is this for woodworking. to decide for each master individually.

Collector

It is the most affordable option, but the motor brushes wear out a lot. The degree of wear depends directly on the intensity of operation of the equipment.

The power of the electric motor used also plays an important role:

  1. up to 500 W. The machine with a low-power electric motor is suitable for surface treatment of wood. You can also select grooves, but only with small cutters and in soft woods;
  2. up to 1200 W. Equipment with an electric motor of such power is more versatile and even deep wood processing can be performed on it. Usually, for domestic needs, a 1.2 kW electric motor is enough;
  3. up to 2000 W. In principle, this is already equipment on which you can work with any wood and cutters. On such a machine, plastic parts and even aluminum can be processed.

Also, when choosing an electric motor, attention should be paid to the number of revolutions. But everything is simple here - the higher the speed, the cleaner the wood processing. In addition, a high-speed electric motor makes it easy and hassle-free to deal with wood defects such as knots.

Power supply

Usually, for a home milling machine, electric motors are used that operate on a conventional 220V network. There are no problems with the installation and connection of this equipment.

But with three-phase models, the situation is different. You need to decide for yourself whether it is worth it to draw a separate line for the machine or not. However, if the workshop is already connected to three-phase power, then an appropriate asynchronous motor will be the best option.

High power, soft start and instant stop - on such a machine you can effectively work with almost any type of wood and perform a variety of operations.

Assembly order

The engine is located under the tabletop.

Before how to do equipment for milling woodwork, you need to decide on the location of the electric motor.

Many people think that it is best to place it below the countertop. On a shaft directed upwards with a special clamping chuck, one or another cutter is attached.

In this case, a mounting plate with a circular cutout is mounted on the wrong side of the tabletop, to which the machine motor is attached. You can of course use a belt drive, but this will only complicate the design.

You can also position the engine horizontally. It is quite possible that this option will be preferable to someone.

Additionally

Do not forget, before assembling the machine, about a competent scheme for switching on equipment and protective devices. Mandatory milling equipment must be equipped with the following elements:

  • emergency braking toggle switch;
  • illumination of the working area;
  • protective cover;
  • dust collector.

When working with milling equipment, sometimes there is a need for special clamps, with which, for example, you can fix a small bar on the tabletop that acts as a guide. This is quite convenient, especially when you need to process thin or small parts.

Fixed clamps are not the best option. Agree that it is much more convenient to use removable clamps that are easy to reinstall depending on the task being performed.

In the event that you intend to create small wooden crafts, then you can make a milling machine from a drill.

It can be quite easily fixed on a special tripod (as on photo).This unit is quite compact and can be easily moved to any place, moreover, it can also be used as a drilling machine.

And you can place the electric drill horizontally. This is a good option if you need to chamfer or select grooves. The cutter is clamped in the chuck and ready to work, but the scope of such devices is rather small.

Conclusion

Now there is a lot of information to independently assemble a simple wood milling machine. Creation of more complex devices, for example, CNC requires knowledge, experience and accurate calculations. However, in practice, such designs are practically not used to perform household tasks, since this is almost semi-professional equipment and therefore it was not even considered.

Video

A homemade milling machine is shown in action and the process of its creation itself.

Now you can buy everything. In principle, the simplest milling machine will cost about 17,000 - 21,000 rubles (Caliber and a number of others). But cheap models have a number of drawbacks (for example, a collector-type engine that requires regular maintenance), and not every owner is satisfied with the capabilities of industrial equipment.

It's no secret that some options will be missed, while others will generally remain unclaimed, but you still have to pay for them. Assembling a small wood milling machine for your own needs with your own hands is a good solution, especially since its design is not so complicated that it cannot be done on its own. There would be a desire and examples of drawings. How to do everything correctly and what to consider is the topic of this article-instruction.

All the attractiveness of doing it yourself is that the choice of sizes, materials, type of connections and other assembly nuances is entirely at the discretion of the master. A lot of what the owner has at hand will do, so you don’t have to buy almost anything.

Based on this, all the drawings below should be considered only as advisory, fact-finding. There is no standard for home-made milling machines and cannot be. The main thing is that he should allow solving those tasks, “under” which he is going to.

electric motor

The expediency of using for a milling machine is determined by several criteria.

engine's type

  • Asynchronous - does not require maintenance, allows you to work with larger cutters. As a minus, the generated noise is noted, but how important it is in the woodworking process, each owner will decide for himself.
  • Collector - cheaper option. The disadvantage is the gradual development of brushes. Wear depends on the intensity of the milling machine.

Power

  • < 0,5 кВт. Станки, оснащенные такими двигателями, подходят для поверхностной обработки заготовок. Как вариант, использование кромочных фрез для выборки пазов, но только если речь идет о сравнительно мягких породах дерева и небольших режущих инструментах.
  • Up to 1.2 kW. A more versatile milling machine model. On such equipment, you can also do deep processing of wood. As a rule, for domestic use this power is quite enough.
  • Up to 2 kW. In fact, we are talking about a semi-professional machine that will allow you to work with any type of cutter and materials of various densities. In addition to wood, it can be used to process plastics and some soft metals. Most often aluminum.

Speed

Here the instructions are simple. The greater this characteristic, the cleaner the processed part of the tree will be. But that's not all. A high-speed engine is “not afraid” of such wood defects as knots. These sections of the cutter passes without problems.

Nutrition

In most cases, 220/50 engines are selected. There are no special problems with their installation and connection. More difficult with three-phase models. Does it make sense to draw a separate line to attach a milling machine - this should be evaluated. But if, for example, 3 f / 380 are already brought into the garage, and the supply cable is laid with a load margin, then an asynchronous "three-phase" is preferable. Smooth start and stop, increased power - such a machine will allow you to work with almost all wood samples and perform any operation.

Crafting table

Its linear parameters are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the wood blanks with which you will have to work in the future. The dimensions of the table itself are of fundamental importance. Especially if there is enough free space in the home workshop where you can install a milling machine.

Machine frame

It must be not only strong, but also withstand significant dynamic loads. The difference between the machine and a manual milling cutter is that the tool is in a fixed position, and the tree will have to be constantly moved during processing. From the point of view of practicality, it is impractical to use wood for the frame. It gradually dries out, becomes covered with cracks, the geometry is broken. Such a machine will have to be adjusted regularly. But metal is the best option. Pipe (preferably square or rectangular) profile or massive corner. Why?

Firstly, you can do without welding, bolted connections. Yes, and a collapsible / collapsible model is much more convenient if you periodically have to change the workplace or take it out for the duration of repairs in the room.

Secondly, if it is already decided to assemble a milling machine, then it is clear that it is not for one-time use. Metal supports can be made adjustable. This will make it easier to level the table when installed in any room or outside it, even if the floors (ground) have some slope (which most often happens).

tabletop

But here metal is not the best solution. And expensive, and the machine will be quite massive. Yes, and without a welding machine can not do.

What to use

  • Planed boards.
  • Plates (chipboard, MDF, OSV).
  • Plywood is multilayer.

It is necessary to focus on the sufficient strength of the countertop in relation to the specifics of the further operation of the milling machine. Based on this, both its thickness and materials are selected.

The table surface must be smooth. Otherwise, accurate milling of the material will not work. At the same time, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of scratches, otherwise the constant movement of the workpieces will lead to the gradual destruction of the countertop. As a result, poor processing quality due to skewed samples on the table.

Ideal surface evenness is ensured in several ways:

  • lamination (covering with thick plastic);
  • sheet metal upholstery;
  • precise fit of planed boards.

On thematic sites there are recommendations to use a countertop from a kitchen set. An excellent option, both in terms of thickness and reliability, if not for one question - where to get it? Such "spare parts" on the street do not roll around. Those materials that the author has designated are quite suitable for a milling machine, even with a fairly powerful engine.

Milling machine assembly procedure

The main issue is the location of the engine. Optimal - lower, under the table. On its shaft, directed vertically upwards, one or another cutter is installed. To do this, a mounting plate with a round cutout is attached to the back of the tabletop. The engine is fixed on it. Or a transmission (belt) is used, but this will somewhat complicate the design.

Another option is with a horizontal engine. Maybe such a milling machine will seem more convenient?

Additionally

It is necessary to think over the scheme of switching on the machine and the protection elements. What is mandatory:

  • emergency stop button;
  • dust removal system;
  • illumination of the working area:
  • protective screen.

Clamps may come in handy during the milling process. With their help, for example, a small panel is attached to the board, which acts as a guide. This is convenient when you have to process small (or thin) pieces of wood. For example, such.

Stationary (welded to the frame) clamps are not the best solution. It is much more convenient to work with removable fixtures that are easy to reinstall, depending on the specifics of the milling.

Those who intend to make small art crafts from wood can be advised to make a milling machine based on an electric / drill. Mounting it on a tripod is easy.

Or so. For sampling grooves, chamfering - a good solution.

The tool will be clamped, like a drill, in the chuck. But the scope of such mini-machines is very limited. Both in terms of engine power and the choice of cutters. The same applies to models based on the "Bulgarian".

There is enough information to make the simplest model of a milling machine with your own hands. The assembly of more complex modifications - for example, with adjusting play - requires certain knowledge and calculations. Practice shows that for solving problems that one has to face in everyday life, all their capabilities are rarely used. In fact, this is already semi-professional equipment, so the author does not consider it appropriate to consider the features of its design in this article.

With the advent of experience in wood processing, it will not be difficult to remake, improve, modify something. You can assemble various devices for working with homemade cutters with your own hands. But all these are already somewhat different topics that require substantive consideration.